regulations were lived up to. Our instructions were, "keep your eyes
open, mouth closed." "Watch strangers in camp (no civilians were
allowed unless with official escort), watch the policing of streets
and the care of kitchens and sinks." "Don't criticise, but report
observations on return," and the final injunction from Lieutenant
Brunner, "Don't be fresh." The guard had no friends, for we arrested
everybody found on the streets after taps. We had no drills, and up to
this time enjoyed excellent health, no one from the company being sick.
We took daily walks around the country and into Jacksonville while off
duty. Our regiment paraded through Jacksonville on a Saturday afternoon
and drew much favorable comment. We were reviewed by Generals Lee and
Burt, the latter being our brigade commander. After we had passed
the reviewing stand General Lee mounted his magnificent gray horse
"Cuba," and rode at the head of the regiment back to camp. The people
of Jacksonville said that the New Jersey regiment was the finest seen
there, and Lee made the remark that he wished only one regiment like
the Second New Jersey to show the Spaniards what an organized body of
troops should be. His marching at our head was a mark of esteem in
which he held us. This week we received our pay from the government
to June 15th, and the boys were correspondingly happy. We were now
kept so constantly on the jump that we hardly had the time to write
to anybody. The box sent by the good people of Rutherford arrived on
Sunday, but for lack of transportation it did not get into camp until
Wednesday. All the perishable stuff, like cake, etc., was unfit to eat,
but what was hailed with joy by the boys was canned vegetables and
fruit. We had been getting greasy meat for a couple of weeks and had
no money to buy anything else, and this in a hot climate. One box was
marked Dick Rusk and Ben Cohen. This was for our tent, and for some
time after we were enabled to "decorate the cloth" in great style with
canned corn, mustard pickles, pickled onions, baked beans, chow-chow,
condensed milk and tomato soup. One morning, being off duty, Corporals
Cohen, Rusk and myself strolled into town. A gentleman hailed us from
his porch and proceeded to show us his garden. This garden would fill
any northerner with envy. He had orange trees, seven of them, all
with oranges a shade darker than the beautiful green of the leaves.
A beautiful tree of the fern family, having large branches of bright
yellow flowers. These he said grew wild in Mexico. Enormous hydrangeas,
hibiscus, the flowers of which were as large as an Easter lily, but a
beautiful pink, with a maroon throat. Eight blooms were on this plant.
The season of roses had ended, but he had some very handsome Marshal
Neils, whose tree covered a large arbor. He had sent that morning to
General Lee a large basket of red, white and blue flowers. He also
showed us an Acacia tree which had delicate pink flowers the same
time it had long brown pods of seed. We had some trouble in leaving
this interesting gentleman. Baseball and athletic sports became
quite popular at this time, and received the official endorsement of
our higher officers. General Burt was often seen on the grand stand
"rooting" for the team from his brigade. But the games were mostly
between Wisconsin, Illinois, New Jersey and Iowa. The Wisconsin boys
gained the championship, but they had to work hard for it. The Jersey
boys excelled in the athletic sports and won nearly every event in the
set of games. The General was quite a strict disciplinarian, but one
day he became quite enthusiastic over a game of ball and was invited to
take part. When he took off his coat he explained that he was no longer
an officer, but just "one of the boys." The boys took this explanation
literally, and during the game the General was a fair mark for all
sorts of baseball slang and "jolly."
[Illustration]
June 28th brought a very happy conclusion to our guard duty in
Jacksonville, from which we were relieved by a company from the First
North Carolina regiment. The company had been worked hard, and it was
beginning to tell on us. Sergeant Collins at noon brought in the last
detail, and as they marched proudly up the length of the company street
they were applauded heartily. We could now take our old place at the
left of the regiment and have the pleasure of serving under Lieutenant
Blake in the field drills. There was no reason now why we should
not become the record company of the regiment. The Wisconsin boys
paid the regiment a visit one night. They were dressed only in their
under garments, with their poncho's over their shoulders, and they
had an elegant time. Our boys returned the visit the next night, in
the same stylish undress, with the addition of a red blanket, instead
of a poncho, leaving one arm bare to the shoulder. We then stuck our
haversacks on our heads, with the flap trailing behind. The ridiculous
get up was so taking that nearly half the regiment turned out, and
headed by the drum corps, we marched past the Second Illinois camp and
through the camps of the Second and Fourth Virginia, Second Wisconsin
and Forty-ninth Iowa, in all of which officers and men turned out and
cheered us. The comment of "Jersey, you're all right," seemed to fit
the case exactly. All the mascots, big and little, turned out with us,
even the red, white and blue rooster.
Arriving back in camp, the Colonel was called out and in a neat speech
he complimented the men on their orderly behavior, wished us to have
all the fun we could get, but warned us to keep within the bounds of
military discipline. The efforts we had put forth to make ourselves
ridiculous had covered us with perspiration and a thick layer of dust
clung to everything that was exposed, so that we were a sight to make
the iron faced gods laugh. The bathhouses were soon crowded, and far
into the night shirtless human spectres were flitting through the
streets.
We had a turn at drill the next morning and it was particularly severe.
Hot! My, in the morning it seemed to blister, and we were soaked with
perspiration, for we had regimental battle exercises; but as soon as we
returned we stripped, got a bath and felt better. I remember distinctly
that morning after the bath of sitting down in only my trousers and
socks and writing a long letter to the folks at home.
In our night patrols of the city we came across some very nice people
who took pains to get our names, and would ask for us if we did not
appear on guard the next night. Upon their invitation I visited a
family by the name of Rich, and while there two other of our boys
came along, whereupon the table was spread and we had a nice afternoon
lunch. Next day they sent us a big chocolate layer cake.
The champion watermelon eater of the company was universally conceded
to be Private Isaac Wilson, and a meal seldom passed but Ike was seen
up to his ears in melon. This fruit cost from 20 cents to nothing,
according to the distance from camp. One depot commissary guard of
eight men had six melons to eat. Ike was there and they disappeared
very quickly. Every time the reliefs awoke during the night watermelon
stared them in the face.
As we were upon the eve of very serious operations in Cuba, the
authorities deemed it expedient to have the Articles of War read to the
soldiers. There are 127, and we received them upon the installment plan
at roll call in the morning and evening. Lieutenant Brunner read these
so well that it was rumored he intended to lecture after the war was
over on what not to do in war times.
A number of excellent entertainments were given in the Y.M.C.A. tent.
The Second Illinois band gave a concert one evening, and on another
occasion Sergeant Gift and Private Gillen sang solos, while Private
F.M. Stevens played enjoyable selections upon the piano; at the close
of which a premature announcement by the chaplain of the fall of
Santiago was made, and an enthusiastic scene took place, while the
cheering was taken up all over camp. The boys had been following events
closely and all were eager for action. We felt keenly the hardships our
comrades were enduring and wished to share them. We were at this time,
perhaps, in better condition for an active campaign than at any time of
our stay in the south, being fully equipped, in excellent spirits and
good health.
PART FOURTH
PLEASURES OF THE CAMP.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
For July 4th an elaborate program had been prepared, but owing to a
considerable downpour of rain it was postponed to the next day. The
celebration probably surpassed anything of its kind Jacksonville ever
saw, and its features are not likely to be seen again. These were:
9 a.m., music and the reading of the Declaration of Independence,
with speeches; 12 m., salute of 48 guns; 4.30 p.m., parade of all
the troops in camp, numbering 12,000; but most interesting was the
train of 189 pack mules connected with the regiment of Rough Riders
commanded by Colonel Torrey. It was in genuine Rocky Mountain style,
and created considerable interest. The Second Mississippi regiment of
infantry turned out only half equipped, and the transition periods from
a citizen to a trained soldier were seen to advantage. Our regiment
paraded in good shape, with L Company in its honorable position at the
left of the regiment. Owing to another downpour of rain the line of
march was shortened, and after being reviewed we marched back to camp,
drenched to the skin. The men all had changes of underclothing and no
bad effects resulted, but the street next morning resembled the rear of
a tenement in New York on wash day.
Sunday evening, July 8th, a detachment from each company of our
regiment was assembled to attend service in the First Presbyterian
Church of Jacksonville, and about 300 men, headed by the First
Wisconsin band, left camp at 7 p.m. After the capture of the city by
the Federal troops during the Civil War, this church was used by them
as a hospital and the building has not been altered in any particular
since then. The band led in the singing. It probably would have been
pleasant out of doors, but in a boxlike structure of truly southern
style, with the bass drum, snare drums and cymbals banging out "Nearer,
My God, to Thee," it became a very trying experience indeed.
The flowers of Florida seemed to be rather a myth, very few being
seen, but those of us who had friends at home who loved flowers were
able to find some choice specimens. The handsomest wild flower I
saw was the Hibiscus. It grew about five feet high in dense swampy
thickets, usually at the edge of creeks. Its blossoms measured fully
ten inches in diameter. Its great wide throat was crimson. Yellow
sepals and four pink petals blotched with black completed this
beautiful flower. They grow in profusion, and against a background of
green leaves make a very showy appearance.
During our journey south I noticed large clumps of yellow
Jack-in-the-Pulpits which were twice the size of our Jersey plants.
The season of flowers in Florida is the months of February, March and
April. Then the roses are in bloom. Marshal Neils grow in almost every
garden in Jacksonville, some climbing to the tops of the houses, and
upon the roof, late blossoms of tea roses were still to be seen. The
Passion flower is very common, the climate favoring this aptly named
blue and white legendary flower of the Crucifixion. Seeds of other
flowers blown from gardens take root in the streets and empty lots,
and among them the starry-eyed phlox lifts up its pleasant little
face. Camellias also were very common, lading the air near them with
rich perfume. Cannas reached perfection without any cultivation, short
plants but immense flaming blossoms; others were yellow, blotched with
red. The collecting of these flowers was a positive pleasure, even in
the hot sun.
[Illustration]
July 9th our regiment was swelled to its full complement by the
addition of 330 recruits from Sea Girt, and a finer lot of young men
did not come to camp for any regiment. More than this, the State had
done for the Nation what no other had, equipped every man ready to
go to the front. Time and again recruits would come from Illinois,
Wisconsin, Iowa, Virginia and North Carolina dressed just as they
appeared at home. As our boys marched through Jacksonville escorted by
detachments from each company, they received considerable applause.
They carried aloft the banner "New Jersey Recruits! This is the
material that New Jersey sends." We were all proud of our State. At the
camp their reception was cooled by a downpour of rain.
[Illustration]
Monday morning, July 11th, it commenced to rain and it rained in
torrents the rest of the day and all night. It flooded the tents, so
that boards and even boxes had to be brought into service to stand on.
The recruits, being quartered on lower ground, were practically drowned
out, so that they either had to stand in the rain or seek shelter in
tents already crowded to their limits. There was hardly a dry foot in
camp Tuesday night.
A large number of 1884-model Springfield rifles arrived at this time
and our regiment was supplied. Their newest feature was a ramrod
bayonet, the dangerous end being cast like a bit. By giving a twist to
the rifle after entering a body it would tear the flesh horribly. In
other respects it was the same rifle used in the National Guard for
years.
Thursday, July 14th, a telegram was received by Adjutant Hilton
announcing the fall of Santiago. The news was genuine this time, and
the occasion prompted an outburst of enthusiasm. Later on the good
feeling was increased by the welcome command of "Fall in for your pay."
The coloring and shapes which the clouds assumed in the early evening
were quite remarkable. One evening in particular, at about 6.30, a
scarlet and white streak stretched across the heavens from north to
south, and about five minutes afterwards a line of blue, which was as
straight as if cut out with a knife, came across the north end, running
east and west. The combination made a very striking similitude to an
American flag.
At the waterworks in Jacksonville there was a pond in which lived
an alligator of variously estimated lengths and age. One day while
I was idly watching the game fish which also inhabited the pool,
the keeper brought the saurian's noonday lunch in the shape of a
live chicken. Coaxing the ugly reptile to come nearer the wire fence
proved unavailing, so the chicken was thrown about one foot from his
snout. Like a flash the great mouth opened, there was a splash, a few
feathers, a couple of gulps, and the huge head was resting just the
same as before, never moving an eye. The slang expression of "you can't
lose me when grub is around" seemed to fit his case exactly.
A company fund was now established for the purpose of securing a
greater variety of food, building a mess-house, and to pay the cook
a few more dollars than the government provided. The assessment was
50 cents per month for each member. Arrangement was also made with a
colored woman to do the clothes washing of the company, which also
necessitated a payment of 50 cents a month per man. This was so cheap
that very few could not afford it, and the wash was quite large each
week. The intention of the company fund was to discourage the purchase
of pies, cakes, ice cream, etc., all too frequently indulged in. Some
of the "credits" obtained at these stores amounted to $3.00 or more,
which the soldier was supposed to liquidate on pay-day.
Now that the signs pointed to an early termination of the war, the
prospect of getting to Cuba grew less and less, and the boys commenced
to turn their thoughts on pleasure. A large number of cameras made
their appearance, and trips were taken for the purpose of getting
views of Florida life. These pictures were developed in Jacksonville
and usually sent home. Some excellent ones were obtained. Trips were
made to Pablo Beach, a bathing resort on the coast to the east, St.
Augustine, and up the St. Johns river, all of which were at reduced
rates.
To the above list of diversions must be added a wedding. The ceremony
took place in the Y.M.C.A. tent, and was between a member of the Second
Illinois Regiment and his sweetheart from Chicago. The bride was fair,
wore a white dress, with bouquets of orange blossoms at her belt
and in her hair. The groom wore, in addition to his uniform, a high
white collar that was the envy of all the boys and white kid gloves,
which must have been excruciating. They received a great ovation upon
leaving. Other marriages took place, some of which we did not hear of
until reaching home. Some of our boys were regular attendants at church
and sang in the choirs, being heartily welcomed by the good people
of Jacksonville.
[Illustration: COLOR GUARD, JACKSONVILLE, FLA.]
Early one Saturday morning Corporals Cohen, Rusk and myself decided
upon a trip to St. Augustine. Inspection of quarters was completed at
8.30 a.m. and we immediately proceeded to Jacksonville to take the
train south, there being no other duties during the day. The fare to
soldiers had been reduced one-half, or 50 cents, which fact enabled
large numbers of soldiers to take advantage of the trip. This day was
no exception, and the cars were crowded. We went to the front of the
train and there found an empty coach, save for two or three negroes.
We decided that we were extremely fortunate indeed. The rear was
partitioned off for baggage. The conductor happened through and asked
us if we could not find room in the rear cars. We were surprised, but
answered that we might have found room on the "roof." After he had
left it dawned upon us that this was a car portioned off for negroes,
as members of this race only came into it, so we very graciously asked
those in the car if they had any objections to our staying there. The
courtesy took them so much by surprise that they could only stare at us
for answer. So we took our seats again and prepared to enjoy ourselves.
[Illustration]
After a half hour's wait we were fairly started, only to stop every few
miles to sidetrack and allow other trains to pass. These waits became
so numerous that it was nearly noon before we reached St. Augustine and
were just one and one-half hours behind schedule.
All the way down the forests seemed fresher and the flowers grew more
thickly among the pines. The absence of charred, blackened areas was
also noticeable.
The city, seen from a distance, reminded one strongly of a city of
the Moors, for above the trees rose a bewildering labyrinth of towers
and minarets, which carried us back to the charming descriptions in
Irving's "Mahomet" and "Granada." We alighted at a very pretty and
airy station surrounded by large beds of flowers and tropical plants.
Among the many importuning jehus we selected one who took us free
to a restaurant. The ebony driver was very loquacious; laughed when
we laughed and interspersed gratis information which was highly
interesting. We jested at the boys along the streets not so fortunate
as we, and tried to cheer them up with the assurance that it was five
miles at least to the nearest "grub."
[Illustration]
The air was remarkably clear and bracing, and is so all the year
round. Every garden seemed a mass of color. Oleanders were everywhere,
filling the air with their spicy breath, drooping their great bowers
of blossoms over the sidewalks. Every home had its well-kept lawns
and shade trees, some with fountains playing enhanced the beauty of
the place. The Memorial Presbyterian Church is very handsome, and
contains one of the finest organs in the South. H.M. Flagler built
this church in 1890 in memory of his daughter, and it is supposed to
have cost $250,000. A little to the east is the Baptist church, built
a few years later, with its heavy impressive front and tall, square
tower, preserving the sedate architecture of this denomination, while
conforming to the general tendency to things Moorish. But here on our
right is one of the most magnificent hotels of the South, the Ponce
de Leon, which stands alone the most handsome and unique of its kind
in the United States. Built upon the style of the Moorish palaces of
the fifteenth century, its architecture is at once voluptuous and
elegant,--towers and minarets shooting up here and there. Its massive
iron gates and chains with spiked balls, heavy oaken doors, courts,
balconies, and marbled walks, are richly carved in Moorish figures. The
gardens surrounding it are only such as a tropical climate can produce.
Stately palmettos and palms shoot up their feathery tops above graceful
bananas lazily waving their plumes in the fresh sea breeze; huge masses
of oleanders, which here seem to reach their perfection, bending
beneath the weight of their blossoms, formed arches of exquisite
beauty across the walks; century plants, orange trees with leaves of
the softest green imaginable while underneath were clusters of fruit
of a still darker color, reminders of a golden harvest. Hydrangeas of
enormous size, the leaves of which were entirely hidden by the great
tresses of pink and blue flowers,--were scattered profusely in all
directions. Roses seemed to grow everywhere, climbing over fences, into
trees, up the sides of buildings--handsome ones that are strangers to
northerners who have slim purses; and right in the midst of all this
beauty of color were playing fountains sending sprays of silver ten and
fifteen feet high. It is a veritable Garden of Eden. Henry M. Flagler
is the controlling spirit in this beautiful palace, as he is in the
other hotels, the massive Cordova and beautiful Alcazar, with their
lovely gardens and fountains. Mr. Flagler's influence extends over the
greater part of the east coast in hotels and railroads of this famous
wintering State.
The older part of the town lies along the water front, just as the
Spaniards had planned the city. On our left was an old building
formerly used as a barracks, but now devoted to the manufacture of
cigars and quite dilapidated. On the right stood a large square
building which many times resounded with the laughter and possible
braggadocio of the cavalier, for this was the residence of the
Governor-General of the Floridas. It is now used as the post-office.
Our interesting guide announced that before us was the Plaza, where the
landing of Menendez was celebrated September 7, 1565, amid the thunder
of artillery and the blasts of trumpets, with the banner of Castile and
Aragon unfurled. He immediately ordered the celebration of mass, while
his soldiers chanted the Te Deum. He named the place St. Augustine, for
he had sighted land on the feast day of that saint. The celebration of
mass in this old city has been kept up uninterruptedly for 333 years.
The old Cathedral with its four chimes (one of which has the date
1682) hanging from bars in niches of the steeple, give a truly Spanish
flavor to the surroundings. The present old building was built in 1793;
the original one having been destroyed by fire the previous year. A
monument in the center of the Plaza marks the commemoration of the
adoption of the Spanish constitution of 1812; also a monument of the
Florida soldiers of the civil war stands here. Across the street on the
right is Trinity Episcopal Church, consecrated in 1833 by Bishop Bowen
of South Carolina.
Our restaurant now appearing, our interest in the "most ancient city"
suddenly lapsed over the prospect of a good dinner. We had a chance to
wash and then partook of a fine repast, the like of which we had not
seen since leaving home. Fine bread, green corn, roast lamb and golden
butter, and to crown all, a heaping saucer of ice cream, and all for 25
cents.
In the Plaza before mentioned stands a shed, covering a platform
upon which for over 200 years slaves were bought and sold, and many
a heart-rending scene took place there. The powder magazines of the
Spanish were pointed out to us; now a barracks for a battery of
artillery; also the oldest house in the United States, and now so
improved (?) that hardly any of the quaint architecture is apparent. It
is at present owned by a Dr. Carver.
Two monuments on St. Francis street commemorate the Dade massacre
in December, 1835; Major Dade, Captain Frazer and one hundred men,
after a desperate resistance, were mercilessly slaughtered by the
Seminoles under Micanopy, an Indian who, tradition says, "could eat
a calf at one sitting, and then coil up like a snake" to digest the
repast. Osceola, chief of the Seminoles, slew General Thompson, the
Indian Agent, and then waged a ruthless war which ended only after the
Okeechobee battle had been fought and the celebrated chief captured. We
were now going through streets lined with fine residences and gardens.
Some of the banana trees were in blossom while others had small green
bunches hanging from the topmost boughs. Oranges were abundant. Date
palms waved their feathery crests at us, but above all were the beauty
and fragrance of the oleanders.
[Illustration]