[Clark, December 20, 1805]
December 20th Friday 1805
Some rain and hail last night and this morning it rained hard untill 10
oClock, men all employd Carrying Punchens and Covering Cabins 4 of
which we had Covered, & Set Some to Dobing--the after part of the day
Cloudy and Some Showers of rain. 3 Indians came with Lickorish
Sackacomie berries & mats to Sell, for which they asked Such high
prices that we did not purchase any of them,--Those people ask double &
tribble the value of everry thing they have to Sell, and never take
less than the full value of any thing, they prise only Blue & white
heeds, files fish hooks and Tobacco--Tobacco and Blue beeds principally
[Clark, December 20, 1805]
Friday 20th of December 1805
Some rain and hail last night and the rained Continued untill 10 oClock
a,m, Men all employd in Carrying punchens or boards & Covering the
houses, 4 of which were Covered to day, the after part of the day
Cloudy with Several Showers of rain--3 Indians arrive in a Canoe. they
brought with them mats, roots & Sackacome berries to Sell for which
they asked Such high prices that we did not purchase any of them. Those
people ask generally double and tribble the value of what they have to
Sell, and never take less than the real value of the article in Such
things as is calculated to do them Service. Such as Blue & white heeds,
with which they trade with the nativs above; files which they make use
of to Sharpen their tools, fish hooks of different Sises and tobacco-
Tobacco and blue beeds they do prefur to every thing.
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
December 21st Saturday 1805
rain as usial last night and all day to day moderately. we Continued at
the Cabins dobbing & Shinking of them, fall Several trees which would
not Split into punchins--the Indians were detected in Stealing a Spoon
& a Bone, and left us, our Sackey Commy out Send 2 men to gather Some
at the ocian, Saw Elk Sign
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
Saturday 21st December 1805
rained as useal all the last night, and contd. moderately all day to
day without any intermition, men employd at the houses. one of the
indians was detected Stealing a horn Spoon, and leave the Camp.
dispatched two men to the open lands near the Ocian for Sackacome,
which we make use of to mix with our tobacco to Smoke which has an
agreeable flavour.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
December 22nd Sunday 1805
rained all the last night & to day without much intermition we finish
dobbig 4 huts which is all we have Covered, the Punchin floor & Bunks
finished Drewyer go out to trap--Sjt. J. Ordway, Gibson & my Servent
Sick Several with Biles on them & bruses of different kinds, much of
our meat Spoiled.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
Sunday 22nd December 1805
rained Continued all the last night and to day without much
intermition, men employd doeing what they can at the houses. Drewyer
Set out up the Creek to Set his traps for beaver, Sergt. ordway, Gibson
& my Servent Sick, Several men Complain of biles and bruses of
differant kinds.
We discover that part of our last Supply of meat is Spoiling from the
womph of the weather not withstanding a constant Smoke kept under it
day and night.
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
December 23rd Monday 1805
rained without intermition all last night, and this day much Thunder in
the morning and evening with rain and Some hail to day, we are all
employd about our huts have ours Covered and Dobed & we move into it, 2
Canoes of Indians Came up to day. I purchased 3 mats verry neetly made,
2 bags made with Flags verry neetly made, those the Clotsops Carry ther
fish in. also a Panthor Skin and Some Lickorish roots, for which I gave
a worn out file, 6 fish hooks & Some Pounded fish which to us was
Spoiled, but those people were fond of--in the evining those people
left us I also gave a String of wompom to a Chief, and Sent a Small
pice of Simimon to a Sick Indian in the Town who had attached himself
to me
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
Monday 23rd December 1805
Rained without intermition all the last night and to day with Thunder
and Hail the fore and after part of this day Capt Lewis and my Self
move into our hut to day unfinished--two Canoes with Indians of the
Clat Sop nation Came up to day. I purchased 3 mats and bags all neetly
made of flags and rushes, those bags are nearly Square of different
size's open on one Side, I also purchased a panthor Skin 71/2 feet long
including the tail, all of which I gave 6 Small fish hooks, a Small
worn out file & Some pounded fish which we Could not use as it was So
long wet that it was Soft and molded, the Indians of this neighbourhood
prize the pound'd fish verry highly, I have not observed this method of
Secureing fish on any other part of the Columbian waters then that
about the Great falls. I gave a 2d Chief a String of wampom, and Sent a
little pounded fish to Cus-ca-lah who was Sick in the village & could
not come to See us.
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
December 24th Tuesday-5
Some hard rain at different times last night, and moderately this
morning without intermition all hands employed in Carrying Punchens &
finishing Covering the huts, and the greater part of the men move into
them a hard rain in the evening.
Cuscalar the young Clot Sop Chief Came with a young brother and 2 young
Squar, they gave or laid before Capt Lewis and my Self a mat and each a
large Parsel of roots, Some time after he demanded 2 files for his
Present we returned the present as we had no files to Speare which
displeased them a little they then offered a woman to each which we
also declined axcpting which also displeased them. Jo Fields finish for
Capt Lewis and my Self each a wide Slab hued to write on, I gave a
handkerchief &c
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
Tuesday 24th December 1805
hard rain at Different times last night and all this day without
intermition. men all employd in finishing their huts and moveing into
them.
Cuscalah the Indian who had treated me So politely when I was at the
Clatsops village, come up in a Canoe with his young brother & 2 Squars
he laid before Capt Lewis and my Self each a mat and a parcel of roots
Some time in the evening two files was demanded for the presents of
mats and roots, as we had no files to part with, we each returned the
present which we had received, which displeased Cuscalah a little. he
then offered a woman to each of us which we also declined axcepting of,
which displeased the whole party verry much--the female part appeared
to be highly disgusted at our refuseing to axcept of their favours &c.
our Store of Meat entirely Spoiled, we are obliged to make use of it as
we have nothing else except a little pounded fish, the remains of what
we purchased near the great falls of the Columbia, and which we have
ever found to be a convenient resort, and a portable method of curing
fish
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
December 25th Christmas 1805 Wednesday
Some rain at different times last night and Showers of hail with
intervales of fair Starr light, This morning at day we were Saluted by
all our party under our winders, a Shout and a Song--after brackfast we
divided our tobacco which amounted to 2 Carrots, one half we gave to
the party who used Tobacco those who did not we gave a Handkerchief as
a present, The day proved Showery all day, the Inds. left us this
eveningall our party moved into their huts. we dried Some of our wet
goods. I rcved a present of a Fleeshe Hoserey vest draws & Socks of
Capt Lewis, pr. Mockerson of Whitehouse, a Small Indian basket of
Guterich, & 2 Doz weasels tales of the Squar of Shabono, & Some black
roots of the Indians G. D. Saw a Snake passing across the parth
Our Diner to day Consisted of pore Elk boiled, Spilt fish & Some roots,
a bad Christmass diner worm Day
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
Christmas Wednesday 25th December 1805
at day light this morning we were awoke by the discharge of the fire
arm of all our party & a Selute, Shoute and a Song which the whole
party joined in under our windows, after which they retired to their
rooms were Chearfull all the morning--after brackfast we divided our
Tobacco which amounted to 12 carrots one half of which we gave to the
men of the party who used tobacco, and to those who doe not use it we
make a present of a handkerchief, The Indians leave us in the evening
all the party Snugly fixed in their huts--I recved a presnt of Capt L.
of a fleece hosrie Shirt Draws and Socks-, a pr. mockersons of
Whitehouse a Small Indian basket of Gutherich, two Dozen white weazils
tails of the Indian woman, & Some black root of the Indians before
their departure--Drewyer informs me that he Saw a Snake pass across the
parth to day. The day proved Showerey wet and disagreeable.
we would have Spent this day the nativity of Christ in feasting, had we
any thing either to raise our Sperits or even gratify our appetites,
our Diner concisted of pore Elk, So much Spoiled that we eate it thro
mear necessity, Some Spoiled pounded fish and a fiew roots.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
December 26th Thursday 1805
rained and blew hard last night Some hard Thunder, The rain continued
as usial all day and wind blew hard from the S. E, Joseph Fields finish
a Table & 2 Seats for us. we dry our wet articles and have the blankets
fleed, The flees are So troublesom that I have Slept but little for 2
nights past and we have regularly to kill them out of our blankets
every day for Several past--maney of the men have ther Powder wet by
the horns being repeetdly wet, hut Smoke verry bad.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
Thursday 26th December 1805
rained and blew with great Violence S E all the last night, Some hard
Claps of Thunder, the rain as usial Continued all day--we dry our wet
articles before the fire, and have our blankets fleed, great numbers
were Caught out of the blankets, those trouble insects are So abundant
that we have to have them killd. out of our blankets every day or get
no Sleep at night--The powder in maney of the mens horns are wet from
their being so long exposed to the rain &c.
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
December 27th Friday 1805.
rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day, the men
Complete Chimneys & Bunks to day, in the evening a Chief and 4 men Come
of the Clotsop nation, Chief Co-ma wool we Sent out R. Fields & Collins
to hunt and order Drewyer, Shannon & Labiach to Set out early to morrow
to hunt,--Jo Fields, Bratten, & Gibson to make Salt at Point Addams,-
Willard & Wiser, to assist them in carrying the Kitties &c to the
Ocian, and all the others to finish the Pickets and gates. worm weather
I Saw a Musquetor which I Showed Capt. Lewis--Those Indians gave is, a
black root they Call Shan-na-tah que a kind of Licquerish which they
rost in embers and Call Cul ho-mo, a black berry the Size of a Cherry &
Dried which they call Shel-well,--all of which they prise highly and
make use of as food to live on, for which Capt Lewis gave the chief a
Cap of Sheep Skin and I his Son, ear bobs, Piece of riben, a pice of
brass, and 2 Small fishing hooks, of which they were much pleased Those
roots & berres, are greatfull to our Stomcks as we have nothing to eate
but Pore Elk meet, nearly Spoiled; & this accident of Spoiled meet, is
owing to wormth & the repeeted rains, which cause the meet to tante
before we Can get it from the woods Musquetors troublesorn
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
Friday 27th December 1805
rained last night as usial and the greater part of this day. In the
evening Co-mo wool the Chief and 4 men of the Clat Sop nation they
presented us a root which resembles the licquirish in Size and taste,
which they roste like a potato which they Call Cul ho-mo, also a black
root which is cured in a kill like the pash-a-co above; this root has a
Sweet taste and the natives are verry fond of it--they Call this root
Shaw-na-tah-que. also a dried berry about the size of a Chery which
they Call Shele well all those roots those Indians value highly and
give them verry Spearingly. in return for the above roots Capt Lewis
gave the Chief a Small piece of Sheap Skin to Ware on his head, I gave
his Son a par of ear bobs and a pece of ribon, and a Small piece of
brass for which they were much pleased.
Those roots and berries are timely and extreamly greatfull to our
Stomachs, as we have nothing to eate but Spoiled Elk meat, I Showed
Capt L. 2 Musquetors to day, or an insect So much the Size Shape and
appearance of a Musquetor that we Could observe no kind of differance.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
December 28th Saturday 1805
rained as usial, a great part of the last night, and this morning
rained and the wind blew hard from the S. E. Sent out the hunters and
Salt makers, & employd the baleanc of the men Carrying the Pickets &c.
&c. hunters Sent out yesterday returned, haveing killed one deer near
the Sea cost, my boy york verry unwell from violent Colds & Strains
Carrying in meet and lifting logs on the huts to build them, This day
is worm, and rained all day moderately without intermition.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
Saturday the 28th December 1805
rained as usial the greater part of the last night and a continuation
this morning accompanied with wind from the S East Derected Drewyer,
Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and Collins to hunt; Jos. Fields,
Bratten, Gibson to proceed to the Ocean at Some Convenient place form a
Camp and Commence makeing Salt with 5 of the largest Kittles, and
Willard and Wiser to assist them in Carrying the Kittles to the Sea
Coastall the other men to be employed about putting up pickets &
makeing the gates of the fort. my man Y. verry unwell from a violent
Coald and Strain by Carrying meet from the woods and lifting the heavy
logs on the works &c. rained all Day without intermition. the Weather
verry worm.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
December 29th Sunday 1805
rained last night as usial, this morning Cloudy without rain a hard
wind from the S. E. The Inds. left us this morning and returned to
their village, after begging for maney things which they did not secure
as we Could not Spare them I gave the Chief Canio a Razor, Sent out 3
men across the river to hunt, all others employd putting up pickets
Pete Crusat Sick with a violent Cold My Servent better--we are told by
the Indians that a whale has foundered on the Coast to the N. W and
their nations is collecting fat of him, the wind is too high for us to
See it, Capt Lewis is been in readiness 2 days to go and Collect Some
of the whale oyle the wind has proved too high as yet for him to Set
out in Safty In the evening a young Chief 4 men and 2 womin of the
War-ci-a-cum tribe came in a large canoe with Wapto roots, Dressed Elk
Skins &c. to Sell, the Chief made me a present of about a half a bushel
of those roots--we gave him a medal of a Small Size and a piece of red
ribin to tie around the top of his Hat which was made with a double
Cone, the diameter of the upper about 3 Inches the lower a about 1 foot
We purchased about 11/2 bushels of those roots for which we gave Some
few red beeds, Small pices of brass wire and old Check--those roots
proved greatfull to us as we are now liveing on Spoiled Elk which is
extreamly disagreeable to the Smel. as well as the taste, I can plainly
discover that a considerable exchange of property is Continually
Carried on between the Tribes and villages of those people they all
dress litely ware nothing below the waste, a pice of fur abt. around
the body, and a Short robe which Composes the total of their dress,
except a few Split hats, and heeds around ther necks wrists and
anckles, and a few in their ears. They are small and not handsom
generally Speaking women perticularly.
The Chin nook womin are lude and Carry on Sport publickly the Clotsop
and others appear deffidend, and reserved The flees are So noumerous in
this Countrey and difficult to get Cleare of that the Indians have
difft. houses & villages to which they remove frequently to get rid of
them, and not withstanding all their precautions, they never Step into
our hut without leaveing Sworms of those troublesom insects. Indeed I
Scercely get to Sleep half the night Clear of the torments of those
flees, with the precaution of haveing my blankets Serched and the flees
killed every day--The 1 s of those insects we Saw on the Collumbia
River was at the 1 s Great falls--I have the Satisfaction to Say that
we had but little rain in the Course of this day, not as much as would
wet a person. but hard wind and Cloudy all day.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th December 1805
rained all the last night a usial, this morning Cloudy without rain, a
hard wind from the S. E I gave the Cheif a razor, and himself and party
left us after begging us for maney articles none of which they recvied
as we Could not Spare the articles they were most in want of. Peter
Crusat
Sick with a violent Cold, my man Y. better. all hands employed about
the Pickets & gates of the fort. we were informed day before yesterday
that a whale had foundered on the coast to the S. W. near the Kil a mox
N. and that the greater part of the Clat Sops were gorn for the oile &
blubber, the wind proves too high for us to proceed by water to See
this monster, Capt Lewis has been in readiness Since we first heard of
the whale to go and see it and collect Some of its Oil, the wind has
proved too high as yet for him to proceed--this evining a young Chief 4
Men and 2 womin of the War ci a cum Nation arrived, and offered for
Sale Dressed Elk Skins and Wap pa to, the Chief made us a preasent of
about 1/2 a bushel of those roots. and we purchased about 11/2 bushels
of those roots for which we gave Some fiew red beeds Small peaces of
brass wire & old Check those roots proved a greatfull addition to our
Spoiled Elk, which has become verry disagreeable both to the taste &
Smell we gave this Chief a Medal of a Small Size and a piece of red
riben to tie around the top of his hat which was of a Singular
Construction Those people will not Sell all their Wap pa to to us they
inform us that they are on their way to trade with the Chit Sops. The
nations above Carry on a verry Considerable interchange of property
with those in this neighbourhood. they pass altogether by water, they
have no roads or pathes through the Countrey which we have observed,
except across portages from one Creek to another, all go litely dressed
ware nothing below the waste in the Coaldest of weather, a piece of fur
around their bodies and a Short roabe Composes the Sum total of their
dress, except a few hats, and heeds about their necks arms and legs
Small badly made and homely generally. The flees are So noumerous and
hard to get rid of; that the Indians have different houses which they
resort to occasionally, not withstanding all their precautions they
never Step into our house without leaveing Sworms of those tormenting
insects; and they torment us in Such a manner as to deprive us of half
the nights Sleep frequently--the first of those insects which we saw on
the Columbian waters was at the Canoe portage at the great falls. Hard
winds & Cloudy all day but verry little rain to day.
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
December 30th Monday 1805
Hard wind and Some rain last night, this morning fair and the Sun Shown
for a Short time 4 Indians Came from the upper Villages they offered us
roots which we did not Chuse to axcept of, as their expectations for
those presents of a fiew roots is 3 or 4 times their real worth, those
Indians with those of yesterday Continued all day. Drewyer & party of
hunters returned and informed they had killed 4 Elk, a party of 6 men
was imediately Sent for the meet, they returned at Dusk, with the 4
Elk, of which we had a Sumptious Supper of Elk Tongues & marrow bones
which was truly gratifying.
The fort was Completed this evening and at Sun Set we let The Indians
know that, our Custom will be to Shut the gates at Sun Set, at which
time, they must all go out of the fort those people who are verry
foward and disegreeable, left the huts with reluctiance--This day
proved the best we have had Since at this place, only 3 Showers of rain
to day, Cloudy nearly all day, in the evening the wind luled and the
fore part of the night fair and clear. I Saw flies & different kinds of
insects in motion to day Snakes are yet to be seen, and Snales without
Cover is Common and large, fowls of every kind Common to this quarter
abound in the Creek & Bay near us
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
Monday 30th December 1805
Hard wind and Some rain last night. this morning the Sun Shown for a
Short time--four Indians came down from the War cia cum Village, they
offered us roots which we did not think proper to accept of as in
return they expect 3 or 4 times as much as the roots as we Could
purchase the Roots for, and are never Satisfied with what they receive,
those 4 Indians & these that Came yesterday Stayed all day. Drewyer
returned and informed that he had killed 4 Elk at no great distance
off, a party of 6 men was imediately dispatched for the meat, and
returned at Dusk with the 4 Elk--we had a Sumptious Supper of Elks
tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying--our fortification is
Completed this evening-and at Sun Set we let the nativs know that our
Custom will be in future, to Shut the gates at Sun Set at which time
all Indians must go out of the fort and not return into it untill next
morning after Sunrise at which time the gates will be opened, those of
the War ci a cum Nation who are very foward left the houses with
reluctianc this day proved to be the fairest and best which we have had
since our arrival at this place, only three Showers dureing this whole
day, wind the fore part of the day.
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
December 31st Tuesday 1805
A Cloudy night & Some rain, this day proved Cloudy and Some Showers of
rain to day all the Indians Continued at their Camp near us, 2 others
Canoes Came one from the War-ci-a-cum Village, with three Indians, and
the other from higher up the river of the Skil-lute nation with three
men and a Squar; Those people brought with them Some Wapto roots, mats
made of flags, & rushes, dried fish and Some fiew Shene-tock-we (or
black) roots & Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous
prices for, particularly the Dressed Elk Skins; I purchased of those
people Some Wapto roots, two mats and a Small pouch of Tobacco of their
own manufactory--for which I gave large fish hooks, which they were
verry fond, those Indians are much more reserved and better behaved to
day than yesterday--the Sight of our Sentinal who walks on his post,
has made this reform in those people who but yesterday was verry
impertenant and disagreeable to all--This evening they all Cleared out
before the time to Shut the gates, without being derected to doe So--I
derected Sinks to be dug and a Sentinal Box which was accomplished one
of those Indeans brought a Musquet to be repared, which only wanted a
Screw flattened, for which he gave me a Peck of Wapto roots, I gave him
a flint and a pice of Sheep Skin of which he was pleased
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
Tuesday 31st December 1805
last night was Cloudy and Some rain, this day prove Cloudy and Showerry
all day, all the Indians Continue at their Camp near us, two other
Canoes arrived, one from the War ci a cum Village with 3 indians and
the other of 3 men & a Squar from higher up the river and are of the
Skil-lute nation, those people brought with them Some Wappato roots,
mats made of flags and rushes dried fish, and a fiew Shaw-na tah-que
and Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous prices for,
perticularly the dressed Elk Skins, I purchased of those people Some
Wap pa to two mats and about 3 pipes of their tobacco in a neet little
bag made of rushes--This tobacco was much like what we had Seen before
with the So So ne or Snake indians, for those articles I gave a large
fishing hook and Several other Small articles, the fishinghooks they
were verry fond of. Those Skit lutes are much better behaved than the
War ci a cum indeed we found a great alteration in the Conduct of them
all this morning, the Sight of our Sentinal on his post at the gate,
together with our deturmined proseedure of putting all out at Sun Set
has made this reform in those War ci a corns who is foward impertinant
an thieveish.
The nativs all leave us the fort this evening before Sun Set without
being told or desired to do So--we had Sinks dug & a Sentinal box made-
a Skit lute brought a gun which he requested me to have repared, it
only wanted a Screw flattened So as to Catch, I put a flint into his
gun & he presented me in return a peck of Wappato for payment, I gave
him piece of a Sheap Skin and a Small piece of blue Cloth to Cover his
lock for which he was much pleased and gave me in return Some roots &c.
I Saw flies and different kinds of insects in motion to day--Snakes are
yet to be Seen and Snales without Covers is Common and verry large
water fowls of various kinds are in great numbers in the rivers and
Creeks and the sides of Meriwethers Bay near us but excessively wild-
the fore part of this night fair and Clear
With the party of Clat Sops who visited us last was a man of much
lighter Coloured than the nativs are generaly, he was freckled with
long duskey red hair, about 25 years of age, and must Certainly be half
white at least, this man appeared to understand more of the English
language than the others of his party, but did not Speak a word of
English, he possessed all the habits of the indians
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806.
January 1st Tuesday.
This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a volley
of small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters
to usher in the new year; this was the only mark of rispect which we
had it in our power to pay this celebrated day. our repast of this day
tho better than that of Christmass, consisted principally in the
anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our
friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day,
and when with the zest given by the recollection of the present, we
shall completely, both mentally and corporally, enjoy the repast which
the hand of civilization has prepared for us. at present we were
content with eating our boiled Elk and wappetoe, and solacing our
thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who set
out this morning reterned in the evening having killed two bucks elk;
they presented Capt. Clark and myself each a marrow-bone and tonge, on
which we suped. visited today by a few of the Clotsops who brought some
roots and burries for the purpose of trading with us. we were uneasy
with rispect to two of our men, Willard and Wiser, who were dispatched
on the 28th ulto. with the saltmakers, and were directed to return
immediately; their not having returned induces us to believe it
probable that they have missed their way.--our fourtification being now
completed we issued an order for the more exact and uniform dicipline
and government of the garrison. (see orderly book 1st January 1806).-
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
January 1st Wednesday 1806
This morning proved cloudy with moderate rain, after a pleasent worm
night during which there fell but little rain--This morning at Day we
wer Saluted from the party without, wishing us a "hapy new year" a
Shout and discharge of their arms--no Indians to be Seen this morning-
they left the place of their encampment dureing the last night The work
of our houses and fort being now Complete, we Ishued an order in which
we pointed out the rules & regulations for the government of the Party
in respect to the Indians as also for the Safty and protection of our
Selves &c.
two Clotsops Came with a mat and Some fiew roots of Cut wha mo, for
which they asked a file they did not trade but Continued all night
Sent out 2 hunters this morning who returned, haveing killed 2 Elk
about 3 miles distant, Some fiew Showers of rain in the Course of this
day. Cloudy all the day.
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806
Wednesday the 1st of January
This morning I was awoke at an early hour by the discharge of a Volley
of Small arms, which were fired by our party in front of our quarters
to usher in the new year, this was the only mark of respect which we
had it in our power to pay this Selibrated day. our repast of this day
tho better than that of Christmas Consisted principally in the
anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in the bosom of our
friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity of the day,
and when with the relish given by the recollection of the present, we
Shall Completely, both mentally and Corparally, the repast which the
hand of Civilization has produced for us. at present we were Content
with eating our boiled Elk and Wappato, and Solacing our thirst with
our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who Set out this
morning returned in the evening haveing killed two Buck Elks; they
presented Capt. Lewis and my Self each a marrow bone and tongue on
which we Suped--we are visited to day by a fiew of the Clatsops by
water they brought some roots and berries for the purpose of tradeing
with us. our fortification being now Complete we issue an order for the
more exact and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison. (See
orderly book Jany 2d 1806)
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop, January 1st 1806
The fort being now completed, the Commanding officers think proper to
direct that the guard shall as usual consist of one Sergeant and three
privates, and that the same be regularly relieved each morning at sun
rise. The post of the new guard shall be in the room of the Sergeants
rispectivly commanding the same. the centinel shall be posted, both day
and night, on the parade in front of the commanding offercers quarters;
tho should he at any time think proper to remove himself to any other
part of the fort, in order the better to inform himself of the desighns
or approach of any party of savages, he is not only at liberty, but is
hereby required to do so. It shall be the duty of the centinel also to
announce the arrival of all parties of Indians to the Sergeant of the
Guard, who shall immediately report the same to the Commanding officers.
The Commanding Officers require and charge the Garrison to treat the
natives in a friendly manner; nor will they be permitted at any time,
to abuse, assault or strike them; unless such abuse assault or stroke
be first given by the natives. nevertheless it shall be right for any
individual, in a peaceable manner, to refuse admittance to, or put out
of his room, any native who may become troublesome to him; and should
such native refuse to go when requested, or attempt to enter their
rooms after being forbidden to do so; it shall be the duty of the
Sergeant of the guard on information of the same, to put such native
out of the fort and see that he is not again admitted during that day
unless specially permitted; and the Sergeant of the guard may for this
purpose imploy such coercive measures (not extending to the taking of
life) as shall at his discretion be deemed necessary to effect the same.
When any native shall be detected in theft, the Sergt. of the guard
shall immediately inform the Commanding offercers of the same, to the
end that such measures may be pursued with rispect to the culprit as
they shall think most expedient.
At sunset on each day, the Sergt. attended by the interpreter Charbono
and two of his guard, will collect and put out of the fort, all Indians
except such as may specially be permitted to remain by the Commanding
offercers, nor shall they be again admitted untill the main gate be
opened the ensuing morning.
At Sunset, or immediately after the Indians have been dismissed, both
gates shall be shut, and secured, and the main gate locked and continue
so untill sunrise the next morning; the water-gate may be used freely
by the Garrison for the purpose of passing and repassing at all times,
tho from sunset, untill sunrise, it shall be the duty of the centinel,
to open the gate for, and shut it after all persons passing and
repassing, suffering the same never to remain unfixed long than is
absolutely necessary.
It shall be the duty of the Sergt. of the guard to keep the kee of the
Meat house, and to cause the guard to keep regular fires therein when
the same may be necessary; and also once at least in 24 hours to visit
the canoes and see that they are safely secured; and shall further on
each morning after he is relieved, make his report verbally to the
Commandg officers.
Each of the old guard will every morning after being relieved furnish
two loads of wood for the commanding offercers fire.
No man is to be particularly exempt from the duty of bringing meat from
the woods, nor none except the Cooks and Interpreters from that of
mounting guard.
Each mess being furnished with an ax, they are directed to deposit in
the room of the commanding offercers all other public tools of which
they are possessed; nor shall the same at any time hereafter be taken
from the said deposit without the knoledge and permission of the
commanding officers; and any individual so borrowing the tools are
strictly required to bring the same back the moment he has ceased to
use them, and no case shall they be permited to keep them out all night.
Any individual selling or disposing of any tool or iron or steel
instrument, arms, accoutrements or ammunicion, shall be deemed guilty
of a breach of this order, and shall be tryed and punished
accordingly.the tools loaned to John Shields are excepted from the
restrictions of this order.
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st U.S. Regt.
Wm. Clark
Capt. &c
[Lewis, January 2, 1806]
Thursday, January 2nd 1806
Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which were killed
yesterday. Willard and Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of
hunters returned who set out on the 26th Ulto. the Indians who visited
yesterday left us at 1 P M today after having disposed of their roots
and berries for a few fishinghooks and some other small articles. we
are infested with swarms of flees already in our new habitations; the
presumption is therefore strong that we shall not devest ourselves of
this intolerably troublesome vermin during our residence here. The
large, and small or whistling swan, sand hill Crane, large and small
gees, brown and white brant, Cormorant, duckan mallard, Canvisback
duck, and several other species of ducks, still remain with us; tho I
do not think that they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the
neighbourhood. Drewyer visited his traps and took an otter. the fur of
both the beaver and otter in this country are extreemly good; those
annamals are tolerably plenty near the sea coast, and on the small
Creeks and rivers as high as the grand rappids, but are by no means as
much so as on the upper part of the Missouri.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
January 2nd Thursday 1806.
A Cloudy rainey morning after a wet night. dispatched 12 Men for the
two Elk Killed yesterday which they brought in at 11 oClock. the day
proved Cloudy and wet, the Indians left us at 1 oClock P. M, Drewyer
visited his traps which had one otter in one of them. The flees are
verry troublesom, our huts have alreadey Sworms of those disagreeable
insects in them, and I fear we Shall not get rid of them dureing our
delay at this place.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
Thursday 2nd of January 1806.
Sent out a party of men and brought in the two Elk which was killed
yesterday. Willard & Wiser have not yet returned nor have a party of
hunters who Set out on the 26th ulto the Indians who visited us
yesterday left us at 1 P. M to day after haveing disposed of their
roots and berries for a fiew fishing hooks and Some other Small
articles. we are infestd. with Sworms of flees already in our new
habatations; the presumption is therefore Strong that we Shall not
devest our Selves of this intolerably troublesom vermin dureing our
residence here. The large, & Small or whistling Swan, Sand hill crane,
large & Small Gees, brown and white brant, Comorant, Duckanmallard,
canvis back duck, and Several other Species of Ducks Still remain with
us; tho I doe not think they are as plenty as on our first arrival in
the neighbourhood. Drewyer visit his traps at took out an otter. the
fur of both the beaver and otter as also the rackoon in this countrey
are extreemly good; those animals are tolerably plenty near the Sea
coast, on the Small creeks and rivers as high as the grand Rapids.
[Lewis, January 3, 1806]
Friday January 3d 1806.
At 11 A.M. we were visited by our near neighbours, Chief or Tia,
Como-wool; alias Conia and six Clatsops. they brought for sale some
roots buries and three dogs also a small quantity of fresh blubber.
this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours
the Callamucksz who inhabit the coast to the S. E. near whose vilage a
whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteeme
it excellent food. our party from necessaty having been obliged to
subsist some lenth of time on dogs have now become extreemly fond of
their flesh; it is worthy of remark that while we lived principally on
the flesh of this anamal we were much more healthy strong and more
fleshey than we had been since we left the Buffaloe country. for my own
part I have become so perfectly reconciled to the dog that I think it
an agreeable food and would prefer it vastly to lean Venison or Elk. a
small Crow, the blue crested Corvus and the smaller corvus with a white
brest, the little brown ren, a large brown sparrow, the bald Eagle and
the beatifull Buzzard of the columbia still continue with us.--Sent
Sergt. Gass and George Shannon to the saltmakers who are somewhere on
the coast to the S. W. of us, to enquire after Willard and Wiser who
have not yet returned. Reubin Fields Collins and Pots the hunters who
set out on the 26th Ulto. returned this evening after dark. they
reported that they had been about 15 Miles up the river at the head of
the bay just below us and had hunted the country from thence down on
the East side of the river, even to a considerable distance from it and
had proved unsuccessful) having killed one deer and a few fowls, barely
as much as subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of taking
time by the forelock, and keep out several parties while we have yet a
little meat beforehand.I gave the Chief Comowooll a pare of sattin
breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
January 3rd Friday 1806
The Sun rose fair this morning for the first time for Six weeks past,
the Clouds Soon obscure it from our view, and a Shower of rain
Suckceededlast night we had Sharp lightening a hard thunder Suckceeded
with heavy Showers of hail, and rain, which Continud with intervales of
fair moon Shine dureing the night. Sent out Sergt. Gass & 2 men to the
Salt makers with a vew to know what is the Cause of the delay of 2 of
our party Willard & Wiser who we are uneasy about, as they were to have
been back 6 days ago.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
Friday the 3rd January 1806
At 11 A. m. we were visited by our near neighbour Chief (or Tia) Co mo
wool alias Conia and Six Clat sops. they brought for Sale Some roots
berries and 3 Dogs also a Small quantity of fresh blubber. this blubber
they informed us they had obtained from their neighbours the Cal la mox
who inhabit the coast to the S. E near one of their Villages a Whale
had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and esteem it
excellent food. our party from necescity have been obliged to Subsist
Some length of time on dogs have now become extreamly fond of their
flesh; it is worthey of remark that while we lived principally on the
flesh of this animal we wer much more helthy Strong and more fleshey
then we have been Sence we left the Buffalow Country. as for my own
part I have not become reconsiled to the taste of this animal as yet. a
Small Crow, the blue Crested Corvus and the Smaller Corvus with a white
breast, the little brown ren, and a large brown Sparrow, the bald
Eagle, and the butifull Buzzard of the Columbia Still Continue with us,
Send Sarjt. Gass and G. Shannon to the Salt makers who are on the Sea
Coast to the S, W. of us, to enquire after Willard & Wiser who have not
yet returned. R. Field, potts & Collins the hunters who Set out on the
28th ulto. returned this evening after dark. they reported that they
had been about 15 miles up the river which falls into Meriwethers Bay
to the East of us, and had hunted the Country a considerable distance
to East, and had proved unsucksesfull haveing killed one Deer and a
fiew fowls, bearly as much as Subsisted them. this reminded us of the
necessity of takeing time by the forelock, and keep out Several parties
while we have yet a little meat beforehand. Capt Lewis gave the Cheif
Cania a par of Sattin breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
[Lewis, January 4, 1806]
Saturday January 4th 1806.
Comowooll and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the
evening. These people the Chinnooks and others residing in this
neighbourhood and speaking the same language have been very friendly to
us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they
have an opportuny to do so where they conceive themselves not liable to
detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they conceive you
anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a handfull of
roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want of
knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of merchandize and the
fear of being cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the
price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a
smaller quantity of the same article; in order to satisfy myself on
this subject I once offered a Chinnook my watch two knives and a
considerable quantity of beads for a small inferior sea Otter's skin
which I did not much want, he immediately conceived it of great value,
and refused to barter except I would double the quantity of beads; the
next day with a great deal of importunity on his part I received the
skin in exchange for a few strans of the same beads he had refused the
day before. I therefore believe this trait in their character proceeds
from an avaricious all grasping disposition. in this rispect they
differ from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their
dispositions invariably lead them to give whatever they are possessed
off no matter how usefull or valuable, for a bauble which pleases their
fancy, without consulting it's usefullness or value. nothing
interesting occurred today, or more so, than our wappetoe being all
exhausted.
[Clark, January 4, 1806]
Saturday 4th January 1806
Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us yesterday left us in the
morning. Those people the Chinnook and others resideing in this
neighbourhood and Speaking the Same language have been very friendly to
us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will pilfer if they
have an oppertunity to do So when they Conceive themselves not liable
to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they Conceive you
anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a hand full of
roots; this I Should have thought proceeded from their want of
Knowledge of the Comparitive value of articles of merchindize and the
fear of being Cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the
price first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a
Smaller quantity of the Same article; in order to Satisfy myself on
this point, I once offered a Clatsop man my watch a knife, a Dollar of
the Coin of U State and hand full of beeds, for a Small Sea otter Skin,
which I did not much want, he immediately Conceived it of great value,
and refused to Sell unless I would give as maney more beads; the next
day with a great deel of importunity on his part we receved the Skin in
exchange for a fiew Strans of the Same beeds he had refused the day
before. I therefore beleive this treat in their Charector proceeds from
an avericious all grasping dis-position. in this respect they differ
from all Indians I ever became acquainted with, for their dispositions
invariably lead them to give what ever they are possessed off no matter
how usefull or valueable, for a bauble which pleases their fancy,
without Consulting its usefullness or value. nothing occured to day, or
more So, than our wappato being all exhausted.
[Lewis, January 5, 1806]
Sunday January 5th 1806.
At 5 P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we
apprehended. they informed us that it was not untill the fifth day
after leaving the Fort that they could find a convenient place for
making salt; that they had at length established themselves on the
coast about 15 Miles S. W. from this, near the lodge of some Killamuck
families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them a
considerable quantity of the blubber of a whale which perished on the
coast some distance S. E. of them; part of this blubber they brought
with them, it was white & not unlike the fat of Poark, tho the texture
was more spongey and somewhat coarser. I had a part of it cooked and
found it very pallitable and tender, it resembled the beaver or the dog
in flavour. it may appear somewhat extraordinary tho it is a fact that
the flesh of the beaver and dog possess a very great affinity in point
of flavour. These lads also informed us that J. Fields, Bratton and
Gibson (the Salt makers) had with their assistance erected a
comfortable camp killed an Elk and several deer and secured a good
stock of meat; they commenced the making of salt and found that they
could obtain from 3 quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a
specemine of the salt of about a gallon, we found it excellent, fine,
strong, & white; this was a great treat to myself and most of the
party, having not had any since the 20th ultmo.; I say most of the
party, for my friend Capt. Clark declares it to be a mear matter of
indifference with him whether he uses it or not; for myself I must
confess I felt a considerable inconvenience from the want of it; the
want of bread I consider as trivial provided, I get fat meat, for as to
the species of meat I am not very particular, the flesh of the dog the
horse and the wolf, having from habit become equally formiliar with any
other, and I have learned to think that if the chord be sufficiently
strong, which binds the soul and boddy together, it dose not so much
matter about the materials which compose it. Colter also returned this
evening unsuccessfull from the chase, having been absent since the 1st
Inst.--Capt. Clark determined this evening to set out early tomorrow
with two canoes and 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events to
purchase from the Indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose he
prepared a small assortment of merchandize to take with him.
[Clark, January 5, 1806]
Sunday 5th of January 1806
At 5 p.m.Willard and Wiser returned, they had not been lost as we
expected. they informd us that it was not untill the 5th day after
leaveing the fort, that they Could find a Convenient place for makeing
Salt; that they had at length established themselves on the Sea Coast
about 15 miles S. W. from this, near the houses of Some Clat Sop & Kil
a mox families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them
a considerable quantity of the blubber of the whale which perished on
the Coast Some distance S. E. of them, it was white and not unlike the
fat of Pork, tho the texture was more Spungey and Somewhat Coarser. we
had part of it Cooked and found it very pallitable and tender, it
resembles the beaver in flavour. those men also informed us that the
Salt makers with their assistance had erected a Comfortable Camp, had
killed an Elk and Several Deer and Secured a good Stock of Meat; they
Commenced the makeing of Salt and found that they Could make from 3
quarts to a gallon a day; they brought with them a Specimen of the
Salt, of about a gallon, we found it excellent white & fine, but not So
Strong as the rock Salt or that made in Kentucky or the Western parts
of the U, States--this Salt was a great treat to most of the party,
haveing not had any Since the 20th ulto. as to my Self I care but
little whether I have any with my meat or not; provided the meat fat,
haveing from habit become entirely cearless about my diat, and I have
learned to think that if the Cord be Sufficiently Strong which binds
the Soul and boddy together, it does not So much matter about the
materials which Compose it.
Colter returned this evening unsecksessfull from the Chase, haveing
been absent since the 1st inst.
I determine to Set out early tomorrow with two canoes & 12 men in quest
of the whale, or at all events to purchase from the indians a parcel of
the blubber, for this purpose I made up a Small assortment of
merchindize, and directed the men to hold themselves in readiness &c.
[Lewis, January 6, 1806]
Monday January 6th 1806.
Capt Clark set out after an early breakfast with the party in two
canoes as had been concerted the last evening; Charbono and his Indian
woman were also of the party; the Indian woman was very impotunate to
be permited to go, and was therefore indulged; she observed that she
had traveled a long way with us to see the great waters, and that now
that monstrous fish was also to be seen, she thought it very hard she
could not be permitted to see either (she had never yet been to the
Ocean).
The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Killamucks &c. are very loquacious and
inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeated to us the
names capasities of the vessels &c of many traders and others who have
visited the mouth of this river; they are generally low in stature,
proportionably small, reather lighter complected and much more illy
formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our frontier; they
are generally cheerfull but never gay. with us their conversation
generally turns upon the subjects of trade, smoking, eating or their
women; about the latter they speak without reserve in their presents,
of their every part, and of the most formiliar connection. they do not
hold the virtue of their women in high estimation, and will even
prostitute their wives and daughters for a fishinghook or a stran of
beads. in common with other savage nations they make their women
perform every species of domestic drudgery. but in almost every species
of this drudgery the men also participate. their women are also
compelled to geather roots, and assist them in taking fish, which
articles form much the greatest part of their subsistance;
notwithstanding the survile manner in which they treat their women they
pay much more rispect to their judgment and oppinions in many rispects
than most indian nations; their women are permitted to speak freely
before them, and sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority;
they generally consult them in their traffic and act in conformity to
their opinions. I think it may be established as a general maxim that
those nations treat their old people and women with most differrence
and rispect where they subsist principally on such articles that these
can participate with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of
the community are treated with.least attention, when the act of
procuring subsistence devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of
life. It appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her
filial tie than in any other of the strong affections of the human
heart, and therefore think, our old men equally with our women indebted
to civilization for their ease and comfort. Among the Siouxs,
Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who subsist by hunting it is a
custom when a person of either sex becomes so old and infurm that they
are unable to travel on foot from camp to camp as they rome in surch of
subsistance, for the children or near relations of such person to leave
them without compunction or remose; on those occasions they usually
place within their reach a small peace of meat and a platter of water,
telling the poor old superannuated wretch for his consolation, that he
or she had lived long enough, that it was time they should dye and go
to their relations who can afford to take care of them much better than
they could. I am informed that this custom prevails even among the
Minetares Arwerharmays and Recares when attended by their old people on
their hunting excurtions; but in justice to these people I must observe
that it appeared to me at their vilages, that they provided tolerably
well for their aged persons, and several of their feasts appear to have
principally for their object a contribution for their aged and infirm
persons.
This day I overhalled our merchandize and dryed it by the fire, found
it all damp; we have not been able to keep anything dry for many days
together since we arrived in this neighbourhood, the humidity of the
air has been so excessively great. our merchandize is reduced to a mear
handfull, and our comfort during our return the next year much depends
on it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that we much regret
the reduced state of this fund.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
2 3 4 5 & all Day
6t of January 1805 all last night rained without intermition, & the
morning. I sat out with 12 men in 2 Canoes to around thro the bay and
up a Creek to an old landing at which place the Indians have a roade
across thro Shashes West I landed made the Canoes fast and Set out up
the Cree on a road passed thro 3 Stashes to a pond, then up & around th
bend along a bad thick way, took an Indian path which took us to a
Creek which runs into the Sand bay at which place we found a Canoe
which took over 3 men at a time crossed and on the top of a rise Saw
Elk prosued & Killed one and encamped at the forks of a Creek the West
Eate th Elk all up. a fine Butifull moon Shining night unto _____, Swan
Geese, Brand &c.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
Monday 6th of January 1806
The last evening Shabono and his Indian woman was very impatient to be
permitted to go with me, and was therefore indulged; She observed that
She had traveled a long way with us to See the great waters, and that
now that monstrous fish was also to be Seen, She thought it verry hard
that She Could not be permitted to See either (She had never yet been
to the Ocian). after an early brackfast I Set out with two Canoes down
the Ne tel R into Meriwether Bay with a view to proced on to the
Clatsop town, and hire a guide to conduct me through the Creeks which I
had every reason to beleeve Comunicated both with the Bay and a Small
river near to which our men were making Salt. Soon after I arrived in
the Bay the wind Sprung up from the N. W and blew So hard and raised
the waves so high that we were obliged to put into a Small Creek Short
of the Village. finding I could not proceed on to the Village in Safty,
I deturmined to assend this Creek as high as the Canoes would go; which
from its directions must be near the open lands in which I had been on
the 10th ulto., and leave the Canoes and proceed on by land. at the
distance of about 3 miles up this Creek I observed Some high open land,
at which place a road Set out and had every appearance of a portage,
here I landed drew up the Canoes and Set out by land, proceeded on
through 3 deep Slashes to a pond about a mile in length and 200 yards
wide, kept up this pond leaving it to the right, and passing the head
to a Creek which we Could not Cross, this Creek is the one which I
rafted on the 8th & 9 ultimo. and at no great distance from where I
crossed in Cus ca lars Canoe on the 10th ulto. to which place I
expected a find a canoe, we proceeded on and found a Small Canoe at the
place I expected, calculated to Carry 3 men, we crossed and from the
top of a ridge in the Prarie we Saw a large gange of Elk feeding about
2 miles below on our direction. I divided the party So as to be Certain
of an elk, Several Shot were fired only one Elk fell, I had this Elk
butchered and carried to a Creak in advance at which place I intended
to encamp, two other Elk were badly Shot, but as it was nearly dark we
Could not pursue them, we proceeded on to the forks of the Creek which
we had just Crossed turning around to the S W. and meeting one of equal
Size from the South, the two makeing a little river 70 yards wide which
falls into the Ocian near the 3 Clat Sop houses which I visited on the
9th ulto. in the forks of this Creek we found Some drift pine which had
been left on the Shore by the tide of which we made fires. the evening
a butifull Clear moon Shiney night, and the 1st fair night which we
have had for 2 months
[Lewis, January 7, 1806]
Monday January 7th 1806.
Last evening Drewyer visited his traps and caught a beaver and an
otter; the beaver was large and fat we have therefore fared sumptuously
today; this we consider a great prize for another reason, it being a
full grown beaver was well supplyed with the materials for making bate
with which to catch others. this bate when properly prepared will
intice the beaver to visit it as far as he can smell it, and this I
think may be safely stated at a mile, their sense of smelling being
very accute. To prepare beaver bate, the castor or bark stone is taken
as the base, this is gently pressed out of the bladderlike bag which
contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have
them you will put from four to six stone in a phiol of that capacity,
to this you will add half a nutmeg, a douzen or 15 grains of cloves and
thirty grains of cinimon finely pulverized, stir them well together and
then add as much ardent sperits to the composition as will reduce it
the consistency mustard prepared for the table; when thus prepared it
resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. when you cannot procure
a phiol a bottle made of horn or a tight earthen vessel will answer, in
all cases it must be excluded from the air or it will soon loose it's
virtue; it is fit for uce immediately it is prepared but becomes much
stronger and better in about four or five days and will keep for months
provided it be perfectly secluded from the air. when cloves are not to
be had use double the quantity of Allspice, and when no spice can be
obtained use the bark of the root of sausafras; when sperits cannot be
had use oil stone of the beaver adding mearly a sufficient quantity to
moisten the other materials, or reduce it to a stif past. it appears to
me that the principal uce of the spices is only to give a variety to
the scent of the bark stone and if so the mace vineller and other
sweetsmelling spices might be employed with equal advantage. The male
beaver has six stones, two which contain a substance much like finely
pulvarized bark of a pale yellow colour and not unlike tanner's ooz in
smell, these are called the bark stones or castors; two others, which
like the bark stone resemble small bladders, contain a pure oil of a
strong rank disagreeable smell, and not unlike train oil, these are
called the oil stones; and 2 others of generation. the Barkstones are
about two inches in length, the others somewhat smaller all are of a
long oval form; and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the
root of the tail, beneath or behind the fundament with which they are
closely connected and seem to communicate. the pride of the female lyes
on the inner side much like those of the hog. they have no further
parts of generation that I can perceive and therefore beleive that like
the birds they copulate with the extremity of the gut. The female have
from two to four young ones at a birth and bring fourth once a year
only, which usually happens about the latter end of may and begining of
June. at this stage she is said to drive the male from the lodge, who
would otherwise destroy the young.--dryed our lodge and had it put away
under shelter; this is the first day during which we have had no rain
since we arrived at this place. nothing extraordinary happened today.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Jany 7th Tuesday 1806
Set out at Day light, porceded up the Creek about 2 mile and crossed on
a tree trunk the Salt makers have fallen across, then proceeded on to
the Ocean 3/4 mile & proceded up 3 miles to the mouth of Colimex River
about 80 or 100 yds wide verry rapid & Cuts its banks, here we found an
old Village of 3 houses, one only inhabited by one familey, I gave the
man a fish hook to put the party across, on the bank found a Skeet fish
which had been lef by the tide proceded on 2 miles on the bank opposit
a kind of bay the river Cross to the Sea Cost to 2 Inds Indians Lodges
at which place I found our Salt makers near the foot of a mountain
which form the Shore. Brackfast and hirired an Indian to pilot me to
the Ca le mix nation where the whale is for which I gave a file, we
proceded on the Stone under a high hill on our right bluff. Soft Stone
Sees verry high, Several parts of this hill recently Sliped in, about
3/4 of a mile abov the Houses Saw a Canoe in which the Dead was buried
at 21/2 miles assended a Steep mountain, as Steep at it is possible
places for 1500 feet we hauled our Selves up by the assistence of the
bushes if one had Given way we must have fallen a great distant the
Steepest worst & highest mountain I ever assended I think it at least
1500 feet highr than the Sea imidiately under on the riht. we met 14
Indians loaded with blubber proceded on thro an unusual bad way falling
timber bendig under logs &c. and encamped on a Creek which runs to my
left find Day and night, the timber Spruc White Cedar & &.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Tuesday 7th of January 1806
Some frost this morning. It may appear Somewhat incrediable, but So it
is that the Elk which was killed last evening was eaten except about 8
pounds, which I directed to be taken along with the Skin, I proceded up
the South fork of the Creek about 2 miles and crossed on a pine tree
which had been fallen by the Saltmakers on their first going out, on
this tree we crossed the deepest of the water and waded on the opposit
Side for 30 yards, from thence to the ocian 3/4 of a mile through a
Continuation of open ridgey Prarie, here the Coast is Sandy, we
proceeded on the Sandy beech nearly South for 3 miles to the mouth of
butifull river with bold and rapid Current of 85 yards wide and 3 feet
deep in the Shallowest place, a Short distance up this river on the N E
Side is the remains of an old village of Clatsops. I entered a house
where I found a Man 2 Womn & 3 Children, they appeared retchedly pore &
dirty, I hired the man to Set us across the River which I call after
the Nation Clat Sop river for which I gave 2 fishing hooks--at this
place the Creek over which I crossed on a tree passes within 100 yards
of the Clat Sop river over which the nativs have a portage which
affords them an easy Communication with the villages near point adams,
and at the mouth of the Creek, on which we lay last night. in walking
on the Sand after crossing the river I Saw a Singular Species of fish
which I had never before Seen one of the men Call this fish a Skaite,
it is properly a Thornback. I proceeded on about 2 miles to near the
base of high Mountain where I found our Salt makers, and with them
Sergt. Gass, Geo. Shannon was out in the woods assisting Jo Field and
gibson to kill Some meat, the Salt makers had made a neet Close Camp,
Convenient to wood Salt water and the fresh water of the Clat Sop river
which at this place was within 100 paces of the Ocian they wer also
Situated near 4 houses of Clatsops & Killamox, who they informed me had
been verry kind and attentive to them. I hired a young Indian to pilot
me to the whale for which Service I gave him a file in hand and
promised Several other Small articles on my return, left Sergt. Gass
and one man of my party Werner to make Salt & permited Bratten to
accompany me, we proceeded on the round Slipery Stones under a high
hill which projected into the ocian about 4 miles further than the
direction of the Coast. after walking for 21/2 miles on the Stones my
guide made a Sudin halt, pointed to the top of the mountain and uttered
the word Pe Shack which means bad, and made Signs that we could not
proceed any further on the rocks, but must pass over that mountain, I
hesitated a moment & view this emence mountain the top of which was
obscured in the clouds, and the assent appeard. to be almost
perpindecular; as the Small Indian parth allong which they had brought
emence loads but a fiew hours before, led up this mountain and appeared
to assend in a Sideling direction, I thought more than probable that
the assent might be torerably easy and therefore proceeded on, I soon
found that the ____ become much worst as I assended, and at one place
we were obliged to Support and draw our Selves up by the bushes & roots
for near 100 feet, and after about 2 hours labour and fatigue we
reached the top of this high mountain, from the top of which I looked
down with estonishment to behold the hight which we had assended, which
appeared to be 10 or 12 hundred feet up a mountain which appeared to be
almost perpindicular, here we met 14 Indians men and women loaded with
the oil & Blubber of the whale. In the face of this tremendeous
precipic imediately below us, there is a Strater of white earth (which
my guide informed me) the neighbouring indians use to paint themselves,
and which appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French
Porcelain is made; I am confident that this earth Contains argill, but
whether it also Contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths
in a proper perpotion I am unable to deturmine. we left the top of the
precipice and proceeded on a bad road and encamped on a Small run passin
g to the left. all much fatiagued
[Lewis, January 8, 1806]
Tuesday January 8th 1806.
Our meat is begining to become scarse; sent Drewyer and Collins to hunt
this morning. the guard duty being hard on the men who now remain in
the fort I have for their relief since the departure of Capt. Clark
made the Cooks mount guard. Sergt. Gass and Shannon have not yet
returned, nor can I immajen what is the cause of their detention. In
consequence of the clouds this evening I lost my P.M. observation for
Equal Altitudes, and from the same cause have not been able to take a
single observation since we have been at this place. nothing
extraordinary happened today.
The Clatsops Chinnooks and others inhabiting the coast and country in
this neighbourhood, are excessively fond of smoking tobacco. in the act
of smoking they appear to swallow it as they dran it from the pipe, and
for many draughts together you will not perceive the smoke which they
take from the pipe; in the same manner also they inhale it in their
lungs untill they become surcharged with this vapour when they puff it
out to a great distance through their nostils and mouth; I have no
doubt the smoke of the tobacco in this manner becomes much more
intoxicating and that they do possess themselves of all it's virtues in
their fullest extent; they freequently give us sounding proofs of it's
creating a dismorallity of order in the abdomen, nor are those light
matters thought indelicate in either sex, but all take the liberty of
obeying the dictates of nature without reserve. these people do not
appear to know the uce of sperituous liquors, they never having once
asked us for it; I presume therefore that the traders who visit them
have never indulged them with the uce of it; from what ever cause this
may proceede, it is a very fortunate occurrence, as well for the
natives themselves, as for the quiet and safety of thos whites who
visit them.
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Jany 8 Wedned
Set out at Day a fine morning wind hard from S. E at 11/2 miles arived
at a Open where I had a view of the Seas Coast for a long Distance
rocks in every direction. Struck a branch and come down to the Sea at
which place an old village between 2 Creeks of the Colemix Nation which
inhabits this Coast, grave yard deposed of in Canoes in which the
bodies are laid in boxes in the Canoe, Paddles &c thos poople must use
thos Canoes in the higher Seas of which then ever I Saw on a Cost
ruding Countrey Crossed 3 points rocks great Distanc in the Sea, hill
Sides Sliping from emins ravins which appears to _____ proceeded on to
the mouth of a Creek about 80 yards wide at which Place I saw 5 Lodges
of Indian of the Ca la mix nation, boiling whale in a trough of about
20 gallons with hot Stones, and the oyle they put into a Canoe I
proceded on a Short distance to the whales which was nothing more than
the Sceleton, of 105 feet long, we took out a few bones and returned to
the Cabins at the mouth of the Creek, and attempted to trade with thos
people who I found Close and Capricious, would not trade the Smallest
piece except they thought they got an advantage of the bargain, their
disposition is averitious, & independant in trade, they offered to
trade for Elk of which we had not I purchased some oile and about 120 w
of Blubber after rendered, finding they would not trade I Deturmined to
return home with what we have The Houses of these people appear
temporary a ridge pole on 2 forks Supported a Certain number of Split
boards of the red Cedar & pine, Set on the end the gable ends of the
Same materials and Calculated for 2 families first, The Dress and
appearenc of the nativs as also the language is procisely that of the
Clopsots & Chinnooks, those people Save their oile in bladder Guts &c.
Their food is principally fish that is thrown on the Shores by the Seas
& left by the tide, This Cost is rockey, the mountains high & rugged,
They inform me that their nation lives in 5 villages to the S E of this
place at the mouths of Creek in which they catch Samn. in the Season, I
got of those people a few roots Some Sturgeon whale-____ &. They Call a
whale E cu-la a Creek Shu man, they have Some fiew Sea ortter for which
they ask Such prices I could not purchase any of them
Th party much fatigued in crossing 1 mountain & 4 high Points Steep &
Slipery, also Stony Beach Slippery and tiresom The high tide obliged me
to delay untill late before the tide put out, I Shot a raven & a gul
with my Small riffle which Suppised these people a little They are fond
of blue & white large beed only, files & fish Hooks which are large-
after Diner we Set out Crossed the Creek in a Small Canoe The tide out
and Encamped on the opposit Side, I was asked for ferrage and paid a
pin, one hut on the Side in which I Camped & Village a Short distance
above which I did not See last night, all the men came over & Smoked
with me, about bed time I herd a hollowing on the opposit Side of the
river which allarnied all the Indian men about me, they run across the
Creek, I Suspected perhaps Some of my party was over after the Squars,
by exemening found that McNeal was not in Camp, my guide who Staid with
me told me Some body throat was Cut. I emediately Sent Serjt Pryor & 2
men across for McNeal, they Soon returned haveing met the person I was
anxious to find out the Cause of the allarm, McNeal Said that a man
envited him to go across and get Some fish, locked arms of which he
Contd to hold he took him into a lodge and the woman gave him a Small
piec the man then invited him to another, the woman of the lodge puled
his blanket, & Sent out a Squar to hollow across, to inform of
Something which aid. McNeal I Sent over Sergt. Pryor to Know the Cause
of the allarm which he was informed that a Plot was laid to kill McNeal
for his Blanket & Clothes by this Indian who was from another Villg at
Some distance, and that She had attempted to Stop McNeal & findeing She
Could not that She then allarmed the men, Several of the mans Band was
with me who imedeately Cleared out, 2 men Came over & Slept at my feet.
I kept a guard & Sentinel all night a fair night wind blew from S. E.
during the evening I acquired all the information possiable respecting
the Coast to the S. E. got the name of many nations & the Nos. of their
houses, a map of the Coast in their way. I am very pore & weak for want
of Sufficient food and fear much that I shall require more assistance
to get back than I had to get to this place. a deturmined purcistance
will as it has done carry me through
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Wednesday 8th January 1805
The last night proved fair and Cold wind hard from the S. E. we Set out
early and proceeded to the top of the mountain next to the which is
much the highest part and that part faceing the Sea is open, from this
point I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects which my eyes
ever surveyed, in my frount a boundless Ocean; to the N. and N. E. the
coast as as far as my sight Could be extended, the Seas rageing with
emence wave and brakeing with great force from the rocks of Cape
Disapointment as far as I could See to the N. W. The Clatsops Chinnooks
and other villagers on each Side of the Columbia river and in the
Praries below me, the meanderings of 3 handsom Streams heading in Small
lakes at the foot the high Country; The Columbia River for a Some
distance up, with its Bays and Small rivers and on the other Side I
have a view of the Coast for an emence distance to the S. E. by S. the
nitches and points of high land which forms this Corse for a long ways
aded to the inoumerable rocks of emence Sise out at a great distance
from the Shore and against which the Seas brak with great force gives
this Coast a most romantic appearance. from this point of View my guide
pointed to a village at the mouth of a Small river near which place he
Said the whale was, he also pointed to 4 other places where the
princpal Villages of the Kil la mox were Situated, I could plainly See
the houses of 2 of those Villeges & the Smoke of a 3rd which was two
far of for me to disern with my naked eye--after taking the Courses and
computed the Distances in my own mind, I proceeded on down a Steep
decent to a Single house the remains of an old Kil a mox Town in a
nitch imediately on the Sea Coast, at which place great no. of eregular
rocks are out and the waves comes in with great force. Near this old
Town I observed large Canoes of the neetest kind on the ground Some of
which appeared nearly decayed others quit Sound, I examoned those
Canoes and found they were the repository of the dead--This Custom of
Secureing the Dead differs a little from the Chinnooks. the Kil a mox
Secure the dead bodies in an oblong box of Plank, which is placed in an
open Canoe resting on the ground, in which is put a paddle and Sundery
other articles the property of the disceased. The Coast in the
neighbourhood of this old village is slipping from the Sides of the
high hills, in emence masses; fifty or a hundred acres at a time give
way and a great proportion of an instant precipitated into the Ocean.
those hills and mountains are principally composed of a yellow Clay;
their Slipping off or Spliting assunder at this time is no doubt Caused
by the incessant rains which has fallen within the last two months. the
mountans Covered with a verry heavy Croth of pine & furr, also the
white Cedar or arbor vita and a Small proportion of the black alder,
this alder grows to the hight of Sixty or Seventy feet and from 2 to 3
feet in diamiter. Some Species of pine on the top of the Point of View
rise to the emmence hight of 210 feet and from 8 to 12 feet in
diameter, and are perfectly Sound and Solid. Wind hard from the S. E
and See looked ____ in the after part of the Day breaking with great
force against the Scattering rocks at Some distance from Shore, and the
ruged rockey points under which we wer obleged to pass and if we had
unfortunately made one false Stet we Should eneviateably have fallen
into the Sea and dashed against the rocks in an instant, fortunately we
passed over 3 of those dismal points and arived on a butifull Sand
Shore on which we Continued for 2 miles, Crossed a Creek 80 yards near
5 Cabins, and proceeded to the place the whale had perished, found only
the Skelleton of this monster on the Sand between 2 of the villages of
the Kil a mox nation; the Whale was already pillaged of every valuable
part by the Kil a mox Inds. in the vecinity of whose village's it lay
on the Strand where the waves and tide had driven up & left it. this
Skeleton measured 105 feet. I returned to the village of 5 Cabins on
the Creek which I shall call E co-la or whale Creek, found the nativs
busily engaged boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large
Squar wooden trought by means of hot Stones; the oil when extracted was
Secured in bladders and the Guts of the whale; the blubber from which
the oil was only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in
their Cabins in large flickes for use; those flickes they usially
expose to the fire on a wooden Spit untill it is prutty well wormed
through and then eate it either alone or with roots of the rush, Shaw
na tdk we or diped in the oil. The Kil a mox although they possessed
large quantities of this blubber and oil were so prenurious that they
disposed of it with great reluctiance and in Small quantities only;
insomuch that my utmost exertion aided by the party with the Small
Stock of merchindize I had taken with me were not able to precure more
blubber than about 300 wt. and a fiew gallons of oil; Small as this
Stock is I prise it highly; and thank providence for directing the
whale to us; and think him much more kind to us than he was to jonah,
having Sent this monster to be Swallowed by us in Sted of Swallowing of
us as jonah's did. I recrossed E co la Creek and Encamped on the bank
at which place we observed an ebundance of fine wood the Indian men
followed me for the purpose of Smokeing. I enquired of those people as
well as I could by Signs the Situation, mode of liveing & Strength of
their nation They informed me that the bulk of their nation lived in 3
large villages Still further along the Sea coast to the S, S, W. at the
enterence Of 3 Creek which fell into a bay, and that other houses were
Scattered about on the Coast, Bay and on a Small river which fell into
the Bay in which they Cought Salmon, and from this Creek (which I call
Kil a mox River) they crossed over to the Wappato I. on the
Shock-ah-lil com (which is the Indian name for the Columbia river) and
purchased Wappato &c. that the nation was once verry large and that
they had a great maney houses, In Salmon Season they Cought great
numbers of that fish in the Small Creeks, when the Salmon was Scerce
they found Sturgion and a variety of other fish thrown up by the waves
and left by the tide which was verry fine, Elk was plenty in the
mountains, but they Could not Kill maney of them with their arrows. The
Kil d mox in their habits Customs manners dress & language differ but
little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks and others in this neighbourhood
are of the Same form of those of the Clatsops with a Dore at each end &
two fire places i, e the house is double as long as wide and divided
into 2 equal parts with a post in the middle Supporting the ridge pole,
and in the middle of each of those divisions they make their fires,
dotes Small & houses Sunk 5 feet
[Lewis, January 9, 1806]
Friday January 9th 1806.
Our men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk and Deer skins for
mockersons and cloathing. the deer are extreemly scarce in this
neighbourhood, some are to be found near the praries and open grounds
along the coast. this evening we heard seven guns in quick succession
after each other, they appeared to be on the Creek to the South of us
and several miles distant; I expect that the hunters Drewyer and
Collins have fallen in with a gang of Elk. some marrow bones and a
little fresh meat would be exceptable; I have been living for two days
past on poor dryed Elk, or jurk as the hunters term it.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. bury their dead in their canoes. for this
purpose four pieces of split timber are set erect on end, and sunk a
few feet in the grown, each brace having their flat sides opposite to
each other and sufficiently far assunder to admit the width of the
canoes in which the dead are to be deposited; through each of these
perpendicular posts, at the hight of six feet a mortice is cut, through
which two bars of wood are incerted; on these cross bars a small canoe
is placed in which the body is laid after being carefully roled in a
robe of some dressed skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a
larger canoe is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the small one,
and resting with it's gunwals on the cross bars; one or more large mats
of rushes or flags are then roled around the canoes and the whole
securely lashed with a long cord, usually made of the bark of the Arbor
vita or white cedar. on the cross bars which support the canoes is
frequently hung or laid various articles of cloathing culinary
eutensels &c. I cannot understand them sufficiently to make any
enquiries relitive to their religeous opinions, but presume from their
depositing various articles with their dead, that they believe in a
state of future existence.
The persons who usually visit the entrance of this river for the
purpose of traffic or hunting I believe are either English or
Americans; the Indians inform us that they speak the same language with
ourselves, and give us proofs of their varacity by repeating many words
of English, as musquit, powder, shot, nife, file, damned rascal, sun of
a bitch &c. whether these traders are from Nootka sound, from some
other late establishment on this coast, or immediately from the U
States or Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor can the
Indians inform us. the Indians whom I have asked in what direction the
traders go when they depart from hence, or arrive here, always point to
the S. W. from which it is presumeable that Nootka cannot be their
destination; and as from Indian information a majority of these traders
annually visit them about the beginning of April and remain with them
six or seven Months, they cannot come immediately from Great Britain or
the U States, the distance being too great for them to go and return in
the ballance of the year. from this circumstance I am sometimes induced
to believe that there is some other establishment on the coast of
America south West of this place of which little is but yet known to
the world, or it may be perhaps on some Island in the pacific ocean
between the Continents of Asia and America to the South West of us.
This traffic on the part of the whites consists in vending, guns,
(principally old british or American musquits) powder, balls and Shot,
Copper and brass kettles, brass teakettles and coffee pots, blankets
from two to three point, scarlet and blue Cloth (coarse), plates and
strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives, beads and
tobacco with fishinghooks buttons and some other small articles; also a
considerable quantity of Sailor's cloaths, as hats coats, trowsers and
shirts. for these they receive in return from the natives, dressed and
undressed Elkskins, skins of the sea Otter, common Otter, beaver,
common fox, spuck, and tiger cat; also dryed and pounded sammon in
baskets, and a kind of buisquit, which the natives make of roots called
by them shappelell. The natives are extravegantly fond of the most
common cheap blue and white beads, of moderate size, or such that from
50 to 70 will weigh one penneyweight. the blue is usually pefered to
the white; these beads constitute the principal circulating medium with
all the indian tribes on this river; for these beads they will dispose
any article they possess.--the beads are strung on strans of a fathom
in length and in that manner sold by the bredth or yard.-
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
January 9th Thursday 1806
a fine morning wind N E Set out at day lighte every man Some meat of
the whale and a little oile proceded on the track we Came out to a
house at a branch where we halted 1/2 an hour to rest this house is at
at place an old village has formerly been, on the Coast at the
Comencment ____ 27 foot wide 35 feet long Sunk in the ground 5 feet 2
Dotes & 2 fire places dotes 29 Ins. high & 141/4 wide handsom Steps to
decend down a post in the middle Coverede with boards Split thin an 2
feet wide, old grave in Canoes of 3 feet 8 Inches wide & 5 feet long
neetly made high at bow proceded on to the top of the hill Passing 3
bad points rockey &. from the Point Clarks Point of view Cape Disapt.
bears S. 12° E passing a Great point at 15 miles one at 40 miles rocks
out to the 1st large point from the Creek 4 points, between the 1st
large Point and 2d a point of many large rocks, Day Clouded up, I can
See a point Bearing N 5° East along way just in Sight. from Clarks View
Point to Cape Disapointment is N 20° W. To point adams &the open Slope
point is North and a Sharp point, met a party of Chinnooks going to get
whale blubber to eate & oile each of which they eate together, we also
over took Several parties of the Clot Sops loaded with imence laods of
the blubber and oile maney of those loads I with difficuelty raised,
Estonishing what custom will do. at 2 oClock we arrived at the Camp of
our Salt makers verry much fatigued, more So than I ever was before,
the Indians all proceeded on, I concluded to Stay all night, as the
party was much fatigued, and Send out 2 men which I had left here to
hunt Ducks up the little river, Jo. Fields had killed an Elk and
brought in a quarter on which we Dined he also had killed & brought in
a Deer. The Indians with the oile & bluber tole me they had to purchase
of the Ca-le nixx and would Come to the fort & Sell to us in 3 Days
time, this I incouraged, as I expect to purchase at the fort as cheep
as at the village at which I was, day proved fine. rained the greater
part of the night I went into an Indian Lodge they were pore Durty and
the house full of flees. he offered me roots which they geather on the
Sea Cost a kind of rush, of which they offered me to eate,
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
Thursday 9th of January 1806
a fine morning wind from the N. E. last night about 10 oClock while
Smokeing with the nativ's I was alarmed by a loud Srile voice from the
Cabins on the opposite Side, the Indians all run immediately across to
the village, my guide who Continued with me made Signs that Some one's
throat was Cut, by enquiry I found that one man McNeal was absent, I
imediately Sent off Sergt. N. Pryor & 4 men in quest of McNeal who they
met comeing across the Creak in great hast, and informed me that the
people were alarmed on the opposit Side at Something but what he could
not tell, a man had verry friendly envited him to go and eate in his
lodge, that the Indian had locked armes with him and went to a lodge in
which a woman gave him Some blubber, that the man envited him to
another lodge to get Something better, and the woman held him by the
blanket which he had around him another ran out and hollow'd and his
pretended friend disapeared--I emediately ordered every man to hold
themselves in a State of rediness and Sent Sergt. Pryor & 4 men to know
the cause of the alarm which was found to be a premeditated plan of the
pretended friend of McNeal to assanate for his Blanket and what fiew
articles he had about him, which was found out by a Chin nook woman who
allarmed the men of the village who were with me in time to prevent the
horred act. this man was of another band at Some distance and ran off
as Soon as he was discovered. we have now to look back and Shudder at
the dreadfull road on which we have to return of 45 miles S E of Point
adams & 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber & oil divided
among the party and Set out about Sunrise and returned by the Same rout
we had went out, met Several parties of men & womin of the Chinnook and
Clatsops nations, on their way to trade with the Kil a mox for blubber
and oil; on the Steep decent of the Mountain I overtook five men and
Six womin with emence loads of the Oil and blubber of the Whale, those
Indians had passed by Some rout by which we missed them as we went out
yesterday; one of the women in the act of getting down a Steep part of
the mountain her load by Some means had Sliped off her back, and She
was holding the load by a Strap which was fastened to the mat bag in
which it was in, in one hand and holding a bush by the other, as I was
in front of my party, I endeavored to relieve this woman by takeing her
load untill She Could get to a better place a little below, & to my
estonishment found the load as much as I Could lift and must exceed 100
wt. the husband of this woman who was below Soon came to her releif,
those people proceeded on with us to the Salt works, at which place we
arrived late in the evening, found them without meat, and 3 of the
Party J. Field Gibson & Shannon out hunting. as I was excessively
fatigued and my party appeared verry much so, I deturmined to Stay
untill the morning and rest our Selves a little. The Clatsops proceeded
on with their lodes--The Clatsops, Chin nooks Kil a mox &c. are verry
loquacious and inquisitive; they possess good memories and have
repeeted to us the names capasities of the Vessels &c of maney traders
and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they are generally
low in Statue, proportionably Small, reather lighter complected and
much more illy formed than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our
fronteers; they are generally Chearfull but never gay. with us their
Conversation generally turns upon the subject of trade, Smokeing,
eating or their womin; about the latter, they Speak without reserve in
their presence, of their every part, and of the most farmiliar
Connection. they do not hold the virtue of their womin in high
estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and Daughters for a
fishing hook or a Stran of beeds. in Common with other Savage nations
they make their womin perform every Species of domestic drugery; but in
almost every Species of this drugery the men also participate. their
woman are compelled to gather roots, and assist them in takeing fish;
which articles form much the greater part of their Subsistance;
notwithstanding the Survile manner in which they treat their womin they
pay much more respect to their judgement and oppinion in maney respects
than most indian nations; their womin are permited to Speak freely
before them, and Sometimes appear to command with a tone of authority;
they generally consult them in their traffic and act conformably to
their opinions.
I think it may be established as a general maxim that those nations
treat their old people and women with most defference and respect where
they Subsist principally on Such articles that these can participate
with the men in obtaining them; and that, that part of the Community
are treated with least attention, when the act of precureing
subsistance devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of life. It
appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her filial
ties than in any others of the Strong effections of the humane heart,
and therefore think our old men equally with our woman indebted to
Sivilization for their ease and Comfort. I am told among the Sioux's,
Assinniboins and others on the Missouri who Subsist by hunting it is a
Custom when a person of either Sex becoms So old and infirm that they
are unable to travel on foot, from Camp to Camp as they rove in serch
of Subsistance, for the Children or near relations of Such person to
leave them without Compunction or remorse; on those occasions they
usially place within their reach a Small piece of meat and a platter of
water, telling the poor old Superannuated retch for their Consolation,
that he or She had lived long enough, and that it was time they Should
die and go to their relations who Can afford to take Care of them, much
better than they Could. I am informed that the Me ne tar es Ar war har
mays and Ricares when attended by their old people on their hunting
expedition prosued the Same Custom; but injustice to those people I
must observe that it appeared to me at their villages, that they
provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and Several of their
feasts appear to have principally for their object a contribution for
their aged and infirm persons. In one of the Mandan villages I Saw an
old man to whome I gave a knife and enquired his age, he Said he had
Seen more than 100 winters, and that he Should Soon go down the river
to their old village--he requested I would give him Something to
prevent the pain in his back his grand Son a Young man rebuked the old
man and Said it was not worth while, that it was time for the old man
to die. the old man occupied one Side of the fire and was furnished
with plenty of Covouring and food, and every attention appeared to be
paid him &c. Jo. Field in my absence had killed an Elk and a Deer,
brought in the Deer and half of the Elk on a part of which we Suped,
Some rain a little after dark. I visited a house near the Salt boilers
found it inhabited by 2 families, they were pore dirty and their house
Sworming with flees.-
[Lewis, January 10, 1806]
Saturday January 10th 1806.
About 10 A.M. I was visited by Tia Shah-har-war-cap and eleven of his
nation in one large canoe; these are the Cuth'-lah-mah nation who
reside first above us on the South side of the Columbia river; this is
the first time that I have seen the Chief, he was hunting when we past
his vilage on our way to this place. I gave him a medal of the smallest
size; he presented me with some indian tobacco and a basquit of
wappetoe, in return for which I gave him some thread for making a
skiming net and a small piece of tobacco. these people speak the same
language with the Chinnooks and Catsops whom they also resemble in
their dress customs manners &c. they brought some dryed salmon,
wappetoe, dogs, and mats made of rushes and flags, to barter; their
dogs and a part of their wappetoe they disposed off, an remained all
night near the fort. This morning Drewyer and Collins returned having
killed two Elk only, and one of those had died in their view over a
small lake which they had not the means of passing it being late in the
evening and has of course spoiled, as it laid with the entrals in it
all night; as the tide was going out we could not send for the elk
today, therefore ordered a party to go for it early in the morning and
George and Collins to continue their hunt; meat has now become scarce
with us.
Capt Clark returned at to P.M. this evening with the majority of the
party who accompanyed him; having left some men to assist the
saltmakers to bring in the meat of two Elk which they had killed, and
sent 2 others through by land to hunt. Capt. Clark found the whale on
the Coast about 45 Miles S. E. of Point Adams, and about 35 Miles from
Fort Clatsop by the rout he took; The whale was already pillaged of
every valuable part by the Killamucks, in the vicinity of one of whose
villages it lay on the strand where the waves and tide had driven up
and left it. this skelleton measured one hundred and five feet. Capt.
C. found the natives busily engaged in boiling the blubber, which they
performed in a large wooden trought by means of hot stones; the oil
when extracted was secured in bladders and the guts of the whale; the
blubber, from which the oil was only partially extracted by this
process, was laid by in their lodges in large fliches for uce; this
they usually expose to the fire on a wooden spit untill it is pretty
well warmed through and then eat it either alone or with the roots of
the rush, squawmash, fern wappetoe &c. The natives although they
possessed large quantities of this blubber and oil were so penurious
that they disposed of it with great reluctance and in small quantities
only; insomuch that the utmost exertions of Capt. C. and the whole
party aided by the little stock of merchandize he had taken with him
and some small articles which the men had, were not able to procure
more blubber than about 300 lb. and a few gallons of the oil; this they
have brought with them, and small as the store is, we prize it highly,
and thank providence for directing the whale to us, and think him much
more kind to us than he was jonah, having sent this monster to be
swallowed by us in stead of swallowing of us as jona's did. Capt. C.
found the road along the coast extreemly difficult of axcess, lying
over some high rough and stoney hills, one of which he discribes as
being much higher than the others, having it's base washed by the Ocean
over which it rares it's towering summit perpendicularly to the hight
of 1500 feet; from this summit Capt. C. informed me that there was a
delightfull and most extensive view of the Ocean, the coast and
adjacent country; this Mout. I have taken the liberty of naming Clark's
Mountain and point of view; it is situated about 30 M. S. E. of Point
Adams and projects about 21/2 miles into the Ocean; Killamucks river
falls in a little to the N. W. of this mountain; in the face of this
tremendious precepice there is a stra of white earth (see specimen No.
____) which the neighbouring Indians use to paint themselves, and which
appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is
made; I am confident this earth contains Argill, but wether it also
contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper
proportion I am unable to determine.--Shannon and Gass were found with
the Salt makers and ordered to return McNeal was near being
assassinated by a Killamuck Indian, but fortunately escaped in
consequence of a Chinnook woman giving information to Capt. C., the
party and Indians with them before the villain had prepaired himself to
execute his purposes. The party returned excessively fortiegued and
tired of their jaunt. Killamucks river is 85 yards wide, rappid and 3
feet deep in the shallowest part. The Killamucks in their habits
customs manners dress and language differ but little from the Clatsops
& Chinnooks. they place their dead in canoes resting on the ground
uncovered, having previously secured the dead bodies in an oblong box
of plank.
The coast in the neighbourhood of Clarks Mountain is sliping off &
falling into the Ocean in immence masses; fifty or a hundred Acres at a
time give way and a great proportion in an instant precipitated into
the Ocean. these hills and mountains are principally composed of a
yellow clay; there sliping off or spliting assunder at this time is no
doubt caused by the incessant rains which have fallen within the last
two months. the country in general as about Fort Clatsop is covered
with a very heavy growth of several species of pine & furr, also the
arbor vita or white cedar and a small proportion of the black Alder
which last sometimes grows to the hight of sixty or seventy feet, and
from two to four feet in diameter. some species of the pine rise to the
immence hight of 210 feet and are from 7 to 12 feet in diameter, and
are perfectly sound and solid.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Jany 10 Friday 1806
I left Sergt. Gass here and Set out at Sun rise, Crossed the little
river which I waded 85 yards wide & 3 feet Deep Swift, at which place I
Saw Several Indians one of which had 2 butifull Sea orter Skins on as a
roabe, here the Creek which I crossed at a tree and on which I camped
the 6th inst. came within 200 yds of the river & they Inds. make a
portage here, Continued on a place 3 miles Crossed this Creek in a
Small Canoe. here I expected to find Shannon and gibson with meet to
furnish the Salt makers, but did not, divided the party Sent 2 men to
my right to try and kill Elk, Soon after met Gibson & Shannon with
meat, they had killed 2 Elk 2 miles to my right, I divided the meat
between the party, and the load of 3 men whome I Send with gibson &
Shannon to help Carrey the 2 Elk to the Salt makers, and I my Self and
the party returned by the Same rout we went out to the Canoes Rd.
Frasure behaved very badly, and mutonous--he also lost his large Knife.
I Sent him back to look for his knife, with Directions to return with
the party of Serjt Gass, I proceded on, here is a portage of 1/4 of a
mile from this Creck to a branch which falls into the Bay, we proceeded
on a much bette road than we went out across a Deep Slash and found our
Canoes Safe, and Set out at Sunset, and arived at the foart, wet and
Cold at 9 oClock P.M. found a Cheif & number of Indians both Encamped
on the Shore, and at the fort of the Cath la-hur Tribe which lives at
no great distance above this back of an Island Close under the South
Side of the Columbia River
Those people Speake the Same Language of the Clotsops dress nearly
alike the men of both Cut their hair in the neck. use blankets of the
manifactory of the nativs near the falls of the Sheep Wool-fond of
brass arm bands and Check, They bring Wap-pa-to root (which is
Sagittifolia or the Common arrow head which is Cultivated by the
Chinees) to Sell.