[Clark, May 18, 1804]
Friday May the 18th 1804 a fine morning took equal altitude and made it
97° 42' 37" M. A
I had the Boat & Pierogue reloded So as to Cause them to be heavyer in
bow than asturn recved of Mr. Lyon 136 lb. Tobacco on act. of Mr.
Choteau Gave out tin Cups & 3 Knives to the French hands, Mr. Lauriesme
returned from the Kickapoo Town to day delayed a Short time & Set out
for St. Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St Louis &
wrote to Cap Lewis Mr. Ducett made me a present of rivr Catts & Some
Herbs our french hands bring me eggs milk &c. &. to day The wind hard
from the S. W. Two Keel Boats came up to this place to day from Kentucky
[Clark, May 18, 1804]
May the 18th Friday 1804
a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & perogue examined and
changed So as the Bow of each may be heavyer laded than the Stern, Mr.
Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public
business return'd and after a Short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I
Sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Capt Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive
from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats &c. &. the wind from the
SW. Took equal altitudes with Sexetn Made it 97°42' 37" MT.
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
Satturday May the 19th 1804 a Violent Wind last night from the W. S W,
Suckceeded by rain with lasted Som hours, a Cloudy Morning, many
persons Came to the boat to day I took equal altitudes. mar time 76° 33'
7"
I heard of my Brothers illness to day which has given me much Concurn,
I settle with the men and take receipts for Pay up to the 1st of Decr.
next, I am invited to a ball in the Village, let Several of the men
go,--R Fields Kill a Deer George Drewyear returned with a hundred
Dollars, he lost
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
May 19th Satturday 1804
A Violent Wind last night from the W. S. W. accompanied with rain which
lasted about three hours Cleared away this morn'g at 8 oClock, I took
receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st. of Decr. next, R. Fields
Kill a Deer to day, I recve an invitation to a Ball, it is not in my
power to go. George Drewyer return from St Louis and brought 99
Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap Lewis to me, Seven Ladies visit me
to day
[Lewis, May 20, 1804]
Sunday May 20th 1804
The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10 oCk A M. agreably
to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was joined by Capt.
Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford & Worrell together with Messrs. A. Chouteau,
C. Gratiot, and many other respectable inhabitants of St. Louis, who
had engaged to accompany me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly
at 12 Oclk after bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that
excellent woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair
friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that village in order to join
my friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William Clark who had
previously arrived at that place with the party destined for the
discovery of the interior of the continent of North America the first 5
miles of our rout laid through a beatifull high leavel and fertile
prarie which incircles the town of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the
lands through which we then passed are somewhat broken up fertile the
plains and woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you
arrive within three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences and
continues to the Missouri the latter is extreamly fertile. At half
after one P.M. our progress was interrupted the near approach of a
violent thunder storm from the N. W. and concluded to take shelter in a
little cabbin hard by untill the rain should be over; accordingly we
alighted and remained about an hour and a half and regailed ourselves
with a could collation which we had taken the precaution to bring with
us from St. Louis.
The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession,
insomuch that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing to rain
this evening; as I had determined to reach St. Charles this evening and
knowing that there was now no time to be lost I set forward in the
rain, most of the gentlemen continued with me, we arrived at half after
six and joined Capt Clark, found the party in good health and sperits.
suped this evening with Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late
Commandant of St. Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on board
the barge--St. Charles is situated on the North bank of the Missouri 21
Miles above it's junction with the Mississippi, and about the same
distance N. W. from St. Louis; it is bisected by one principal street
about a mile in length runing nearly parrallel with the river, the
plain on which it stands-is narrow tho sufficiently elivated to secure
it against the annual inundations of the river, which usually happen in
the month of June, and in the rear it is terminated by a range of small
hills, hence the appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this vilage
is better known to the French inhabitants of the Illinois than that of
St. Charles. The Vilage contains a Chappel, one hundred dwelling
houses, and about 450 inhabitants; their houses are generally small and
but illy constructed; a great majority of the inhabitants are miserably
pour, illiterate and when at home excessively lazy, tho they are polite
hospitable and by no means deficient in point of natural genious, they
live in a perfect state of harmony among each other; and plase as
implicit confidence in the doctrines of their speritual pastor, the
Roman Catholic priest, as they yeald passive obedience to the will of
their temporal master the commandant. a small garden of vegetables is
the usual extent of their cultivation, and this is commonly imposed on
the old men and boys; the men in the vigor of life consider the
cultivation of the earth a degrading occupation, and in order to gain
the necessary subsistence for themselves and families, either undertake
hunting voyages on their own account, or engage themselves as hirelings
to such persons as possess sufficient capital to extend their traffic
to the natives of the interior parts of the country; on those voyages
in either case, they are frequently absent from their families or homes
the term of six twelve or eighteen months and alwas subjected to severe
and incessant labour, exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages,
the vicissitudes of weather and climate, and dependant on chance or
accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the event of malady.
These people are principally the decendants of the Canadian French, and
it is not an inconsiderable proportian of them that can boast a small
dash of the pure blood of the aboriginees of America. On consulting
with my friend Capt. C. I found it necessary that we should pospone our
departure untill 2 P M. the next day and accordingly gave orders to the
party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that hour.
Captn. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the stores on board
the Barge and perogues on the evening of the 13th of May he determined
to leave our winter cantainment at the mouth of River Dubois the next
day, and to ascend the Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles,
where as it had been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my
arrival; this movement while it advanced us a small distance on our
rout, would also enable him to determine whether the vessels had been
judiciously loaded and if not timely to make the necessary alterations;
accordingly at 4 P.M. on Monday the 14th of May 1804, he embarked with
the party in the presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who
had assembled to witness his departure. during the fore part of this
day it rained excessively hard. In my last letter to the President
dated at St. Louis I mentioned the departure of Capt. Clark from River
Dubois on the 15th Inst, which was the day that had been calculated on,
but having completed the arrangements a day earlyer he departed on the
14th as before mentioned. On the evening of the 14th the party halted
and encamped on the upper point of the first Island which lyes near the
Larbord shore, on the same side and nearly opposite the center of this
Island a small Creek disimbogues called Couldwater.
The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles the Wind from N. E.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May
a Cloudy morning rained and a hard wind last night I continue to write
Rolls, Send 20 men to Church to day one man Sick Capt Lewis and Several
Gentlemen arrive from St Louis thro a violent Shoure of rain, the most
of the party go to the Church.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May
A Cloudy morning rained and hard wind from the ____ last night, The
letter George lost yesterday found by a Country man, I gave the party
leave to go and hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. ____ a romon
Carthlick Priest at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by
the Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy Showr
of Rain Mssr. Lutenants Minford & Werness. Mr. Choteau Grattiot,
Deloney, Laber Dee Ranken Dr. SoDrang rained the greater part of this
evening. Suped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdt. of St Charles a
Spanish Ensign.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
Monday 21st May
Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at three oClock after
getting every matter arranged, proceeded on under a jentle Breese, at
one mile a Violent rain with Wind from the S. W. we landed at the upper
point of the first Island on the Stbd Side & Camped, Soon after it
commenced raining & continued the greater part of the night; 3 french
men got leave to return to Town, and return early (refur to Fig. 2.)
25st refured to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st 1804. Steered N. 15° W
13/4 Ms N 52°W to the upper point of the Island and Camped dureing a rain
which had been falling half an hour, opposit this Isd. Corns in a Small
creek on the St. Sd. and at the head one on the Ld. Side rains
powerfully.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
May 21st 1804 Monday
All the forepart of the Day Arranging our party and prcureing the
different articles necessary for them at this place--Dined with Mr.
Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock under three Cheers from
the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island
(which is Situated on the Stbd Side) 3 miles Soon after we Set out to
day a hard Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which
lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a Small creek
corns in on the Lbd Side-
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
Tuesday May 22nd
delayed a Short time for the three french men who returned and we Set
out at 6 oClock a Cloudy morning rained Violently hard last night Saw
Several people on the bank to day & passed Several Small farms. Capt.
Lewis walk on Shore a little & passed a Camp of Kickapoo Indians, &
incamped in the mouth of a Small Creek in a large Bend on the Stbd Side.
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
May 22nd Tuesday 1804
a Cloudy morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who got liberty to
return to arrange Some business they had forgotten in Town, at 6 oClock
we proceeded on, passed Several Small farms on the bank, and a large
creek on the Lbd. Side Called Bonom a Camp of Kickapoos on the St. Side
Those Indians told me Several days ago that they would Come on & hunt
and by the time I got to their Camp they would have Some Provisions for
us, we Camped in a Bend at the Mo. of a Small creek, Soon after we came
too the Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave
them two qts. of whiskey-
This Day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands on the
Starboard Side, Verry hard water.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
Wednesday May 23rd 8 Indians Kick. Came to Camp with meat we recved
their pesents of 3 Deer & gave them Whisky.
Set out early run on a log under water and Detained one hour proceeded
on the Same Course of last night, (2 miles) passed the mouth of a creek
on the Sbd. Side called Woman of Osage River about 30 yds. over,
abounding in fish, Stoped one hour where their was maney people
assembled to See us, halted at an endented part of a Rock which juted
over the water, Called by the french the tavern which is a Cave 40 yds.
long with the river 4 feet Deep & about 20 feet high, this is a place
the Indians & french Pay omage to, many names are wrote up on the rock
Mine among others, at one mile above this rock coms in a small Creek
called Tavern Creek, abov one other Small Creek, camped at 6 oClock
(after expirencing great dificuselty in passing Some Drifts) on the Stb
Side, examined the mens arms found all in good order except the
Detachment of Solds in the Perogue--R Field Killed a Deer.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Course of last night S 75 W Contined 2 miles to the Said point
St. Side passed the upper Point of the Island Thence S 52° W. 7 Miles to
a pt. on St. Sd. passing Tavern Island two Small Isd. in a bend to the
St. side the Mo. of Oge womans River at 1 m. the Cave Called the
Tavern, Lbd Side at 5 m. Situated in the Clifts, opposit a Small Island
on the Stbd Side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people, passed the
Tavern Cave, Capt Lewis assended the hill which has peninsulis
projecting in raged points to the river, and was near falling from a
Peninsulia hard water all Day Saved himself by the assistance of his
Knife, passed a Creek 15 yds. wide at 1 mile called Creek of the Tavern
on the Lbd. Side, Camped opposit the pt. which the Last Course was to.
one man Sick.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Wednesday 1804
We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour, proceeded the
Course of Last night 2 Miles to the mouth of a Creek on the Stbd. Side
Called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. wide, opposit a large Island and a
Settlement. (on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled) Crossed to the
Settlemt. and took in R & Jo. Fields who had been Sent to purchase Corn
& Butter &c. many people Came to See us, we passed a large Cave on the
Lbd. Side about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20 feet high many
different immages are Painted on the Rock at this place. the Inds &
French pay omage. many hams are wrote on the rock, Stoped about one
mile above for Capt Lewis who had assended the Clifts which is at the
Said Cave 300 fee high, hanging over the Water, the water excessively
Swift to day, we incamped below a Small Isld. in the Meadle of the
river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer
This evening we examined the arms and amunition found those mens arms
in the perogue in bad order a fair evening Capt. Lewis near falling
from the Pencelia of rocks 300 feet, he caught at 20 foot.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
Thursday May the 24th 1804 Set out early passed a Small Isd in the
Midlle of the river, opposit the on the Lbd. Side is projecting Rock of
1/2 a mile in extent against which the Current runs, this place is
called the Devils race grounds,1 above this Coms in a Small Creek
called the little quiver, a Sand Island on the Stbd Side, passed
Several Islands & 2 creeks, on the Stbd Side a Small Island on the Lbd
Side above we wer verry near loseing our Boat in Toeing She Struck the
Sands the Violence of the Current was so great that the Toe roap Broke,
the Boat turned Broadside, as the Current Washed the Sand from under
her She wheeled & lodged on the bank below as often as three times,
before we got her in Deep water, nothing Saved her but
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Set out early, Killed a Deer last night. examined the mens
arms, & Saw that all was prepared for action, passed an Island in the
M. R, opposit a hard place of water called the Devill race grown, S 63° W
4 miles to a point on the Sd. Starboard Side N 68 W to a point on Lbd
Side 3 ms. Passd. a Small Willow Island on the Lbd. Side to the point
of a Isd. L Side--S 75° W to a point on Stbd Side 3 Miles, Passed the
upper point of the Island. Crossed and in a verry bad place we got our
Boat a ground & She Bocke the Toe Roap & turned the Land, the in
Wheeling three times, got off returned to the head of the aforesaid
Island, and Came up under a falling Bank. hard water this place being
the worst I ever Saw, I call it the retregrade bend. Camped at an old
house.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Thursday 1804
Set out early passed a Verry bad part of the River Called the Deavels
race ground, this is where the Current Sets against Some projecting
rocks for half a mile on the Labd. Side, above this place is the mouth
of a Small Creek Called queivere, passed Several Islands, two Small
Creeks on the Stbd. Side, and passed between a Isld. an the Lbd. Shore
a narrow pass above this Isld is a Verry bad part of the river, we
attempted to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in So fast
that the evident danger obliged us to Cross between the Starbd. Side
and a Sand bar in the middle of the river, we hove up near the head of
the Sand bar, the Sand moveing & banking caused us to run on the Sand.
The Swiftness of the Current wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and
was nearly over Setting the boat, all hand jumped out on the upper Side
and bore on that Side untill the Sand washed from under the boat and
wheeled on the next bank by the time She wheeled a 3rd Time got a rope
fast to her Stern and by the means of Swimmers was Carred to Shore and
when her Stern was down whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into
Deep water near the Shore, we returned, to the Island where we Set out
and assended under the Bank which I have just mentioned, as falling in,
here George Drewyer & Willard, two of our men who left us at St.
Charles to Come on by land joined us, we Camped about 1 mile above
where we were So nearly being lost, on the Labd Side at a Plantation.
all in Spirits. This place I call the retragrade bend as we were
obliged to fall back 2 miles
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
25 May
Set out early Course West to a Point on Sbd. Side at 2 Miles passd a
Willow Isd. in a Bend to the Lbd. a creek called wood rivr Lbd. Side N
57° W. to a pt. on the Sb. Side 3 Miles passed the Mouth of a Creek St.
Side Called Le quever, this Same course continued to a Point Ld. Side
21/2 Miles further. opposit a Isd. on Sd Side Passed a Creek Called R.
La freeau at the pt. N 20° W 2 miles To a Small french Village called La
Charatt of five families only, in the bend to the Starbord This is the
Last Settlement of Whites, an Island opposit
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
May 25th Friday 1804
rain last night river fall Several inches, Set out early psd. Several
Islands passed wood River on the Lbd Side at 2 miles passed Creek on
the St. Side Called La Querer at 5 miles passed a Creek at 8 mile,
opsd. an Isd. on the Lbd Side, Camped at the mouth of a Creek called
River a Chauritte, above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as many
families, Settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade with the
Indians, here we met with Mr. Louisell imedeately down from the Seeeder
Isld. Situated in the Countrey of the Suxex 400 Leagues up he gave us a
good Deel of information Some letters he informed us that he Saw no
Indians on the river below the Poncrars--Some hard rain this evening
The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they Sent us milk &
eggs to eat.
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May 26th 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a hard rain & Wind, & proceed
on verry well under Sale. Wind from the E N E
The wind favourable to day we made 18 miles a Cloud rais & wind & rain
Closed the Day
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May the 26th Sattarday 1804.
Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of rain (George Drewyer & John
Shields, Sent by Land with the two horses with directions to proceed on
one day & hunt the next) The wind favourable from the E N E passed Beef
Island and river on Lbd Side at 31/2 Ms Passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side
Called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day great Deal of
Deer Sign on the Bank one man out hunting, w Camped on an Island on the
Starboard Side near the Southern extrem of Luter Island.
[Lewis, May 26, 1804]
Detatchment Orders.
May 26th 1804.
The Commanding Officers direct, that the three Squads under the command
of Sergts. Floyd Ordway and Pryor heretofore forming two messes each,
shall untill further orders constitute three messes only, the same
being altered and organized as follows (viz)