formed of a single stratum of loose stones, laid on the earth, and
covering a space 20 feet east and west by 10 feet north and south.
Along the inside of the wall, at the northeast corner, is a similar
pavement 12 feet north and south by 4 feet 6 inches east and west, and
a foot high. Both of these pavements were probably intended for seats
and beds. On the larger pavement, 5 feet from the south wall, 9 feet
from the east corner, was a boulder, its diameters 11, 12, and 15
inches, whose largest surface lay uppermost and was hollowed out to
form, a deep saucer-shaped depression like a mortar; but as there was
nothing to grind, it was probably to crack or pound nuts in. At the
middle of the southeast quarter of the inclosure was a pile of stones
3½ feet across and 1 foot high; there was nothing under them. Seven
feet from the north wall, 10 feet from the east wall, was a fireplace
formed of two slabs on the east and west sides and a flattened boulder
on the south side, all upedged, the north side being left open. Its
bottom was undisturbed earth, a foot lower than the level of the
platforms. It would seem, though this is uncertain, that the platforms
or pavements were on the original surface level, the unpaved space
being cleared out to the level of the bottom of the fireplace, and
that this space had been filled with earth blown in by the winds after
the spot was abandoned. From outside to outside the upedged stones
measured 26 by 28 inches; the space inside 18 by 20 inches. On the
west edge was a large grinding stone, the amount of wear on its
surface indicating much use. A pavement 4 feet wide reached from the
open side of the fireplace to the north wall.
In the cavity was about half a bushel of small stones, most of them
burned. When meat was to be baked, a fire was made in the pit and as
many of the stones as required were heated; they were placed in the
body cavity, in the mouth, and in slits cut in the skin of the animal,
which was then deposited in the pit, closely covered, and left until
thoroughly cooked. Similar ovens or barbecue holes, and the same
method of cooking, are still in use among the natives in their
villages.
Views of this house site and of the fireplace, taken from various
directions, are shown in plates 38-40.
Nearly north of the house site (A), at a distance of 91 feet, is the
similar structure (B). The ground on which this is built is 6 feet
lower than at (A). Its measurements are 23 by 24 feet outside, 13 by
18 feet inside, longest north and south. The entire interior is paved.
For a space of 8 feet from the north end the pavement is a foot higher
than in the south end. Beginning at the foot of the south wall, on the
outer side, and extending for 29 feet toward (A), there is a closely
laid stone pavement 10 feet wide at the wall and gradually diminishing
to a width of 5 feet; its termination is nearly square, the slight
curve being apparently not intentional. The west edge of this pavement
is in a straight line, the east edge being curved.
Partial views are given in plate 41.
Neither (A) nor (B) has any opening for a doorway, nor is there any
apparent method of easy entrance, though a slight platform on the
north side of (A) may have supported steps of wood.
These walls, as in all other heavy structures observed, were made by
carefully laying up two rows of large stones at a little distance
apart and filling the space between them with stones of any convenient
size, thrown in at random. Timbers set in them formed the skeleton
structure of a house which was completed of poles and smaller growth,
the sides and roof being thatched. The weight of the stones held the
main timbers against the force of the wind even in severe storms.
The surface over hundreds of acres around these ruins is covered with
house sites, long straight rows of stones, and garden lots surrounded
by stone walls. Shop refuse, mostly chips and spalls from adz making,
sea shells broken to extract the mollusks, coral for abrading, adzes
in all stages of finish, and many "olimaikis" (chunkey stones) are
found. A mile away is a chunkey yard or bowling alley about 600 feet
long on the crest of a ridge which overlooks the ocean on both sides
of the island.
THE RAIN HEIAU
A mile from the Cooke residence is a peculiar structure, said to be
the only one of its kind in the entire Hawaiian group. Native
tradition has it that "a long time ago" a rain wizard who was angered
by the people of this district sent such rains that everything was on
the point of being washed out to sea. Another wizard told the people
to make a heiau (temple, or sacred building) with many small
compartments which were to be left uncovered in order that the
raindrops, each of which was as large as a man's head, could be caught
and held in them, and burned. The rain would cease when the first
wizard learned that he was being circumvented.
[Illustration: PLATE 38
a, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking west
b, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking north
c, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking south]
[Illustration: PLATE 39
a, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking south
b, Platform in Heiau A, looking southeast
c, Paved way in Heiau A, looking southwest]
[Illustration: PLATE 40
a, Paved way in Heiau A, looking north
b, Fireplace in Heiau A]
[Illustration: PLATE 41
a, Heiau B, on Molokai Island, looking northwest
b, Heiau B, showing stone-paved interior, looking northeast]
[Illustration: PLATE 42
a, The "Rain Heiau," Molokai Island, looking west
b, The "Rain Heiau," looking south]
[Illustration: PLATE 43
a, The "Rain Heiau," looking north
b, The "Rain Heiau," looking southwest]
[Illustration: PLATE 44
a, The "Sacrifice Stones" on Molokai Island; looking southwest
b, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking west]
[Illustration: PLATE 45
a, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking northwest
b, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking south]
As it now remains, this heiau consists of flat stones placed on edge
to make an inclosure 30½ by 20½ feet across the center, the length of
the walls being 27½ feet on the north, 31½ feet on the south, 19 feet
on the east, and 23½ feet on the west. At the middle is a minor
inclosure, similarly formed, 5 feet 8 inches by 3 feet 8 inches,
longest north and south. This is a kind of "altar" or "praying place."
From it a narrow passage, 12 to 18 inches wide, extends to the middle
of each side. In each of the four divisions thus formed other stones
were placed to form box-like spaces of diverse shapes and dimensions
from 9 by 15 to 20 by 28 and 15 by 45 inches. All the stones were set
on the surface, braced against one another; no excavation was made to
hold them. They have been somewhat displaced so that the exact number
of the boxes can not now be ascertained, but there are somewhere
between 110 and 120 of them.
Partial views are shown in plates 42 and 43.
THE SACRIFICE STONES
On the south side of a ravine with steep slopes and bowlder-strewn
bottom, half a mile from the "Rain Heiau," is a pile of stones, most
of them the natural outcrop, but some of them intentionally placed.
The entire mass measures about 27 feet across each way. The highest
stone is a weather-worn slab, with the upper surface somewhat convex,
6 feet 9 inches long, 2 feet 3 inches wide on the bottom, 1 foot 3
inches wide on top, 1 foot 4 inches thick. It lies nearly east and
west, the upper end on the ground, the lower end on a large bowlder,
beyond which it projects for 28 inches. Beneath this, with a space of
8 inches between them, is another stone, 5 feet long, 2 feet 4 inches
wide, and 10 inches thick. Its upper surface is concave, the entire
margin being higher than the central portion. It lies north and south,
the southern end being supported by three small superposed slabs.
These two are supposed to be sacrificial stones, on which victims were
extended at full length, face downward. In this position they were
easily slain by being decapitated or the neck or head being broken
with a club or a stone. That they were utilized for some definite
purpose is evident from the fact that the projecting ends of both have
been broken off square, the spalls splitting back along the
under-surface.
Views are given in plates 44 and 45.
On the opposite slope of the ravine from the sacrifice stones are two
old dancing platforms, made by digging the earth down on the hillside
to form a level area, the lower margin of which is supported by a high
wall of heavy stones. Near the platforms, on the steep slope, is a
space of a fourth of an acre surrounded by a stone wall; and a row of
stones marks and preserves a trail or path from them to the bottom of
the ravine, terminating at what seems to be a small reservoir
surrounded by stones and earth, with a dam above and to one side of it
to shut out storm water.
One hundred and fifty yards up the ravine from the dance platforms are
two large artificial depressions in weathered bowlders. They have the
appearance of mortars or nut-crushing holes, but are supposed to be
for catching water during rains, as it is known that the natives made
these miniature reservoirs or catch basins, the water being dipped out
into vessels as it accumulated.
* * *
HAWAII ISLAND
There are reports of former heiaus, house sites, etc., in and around
Hilo, and there are numerous so-called "caves," many of which were
used by the earlier natives as receptacles for their dead. The term
"cave" is not to be taken in its usual meaning of a cavity due to
erosion by water, or the small recesses due to wind scouring. In the
Hawaiian Islands it means a tube or tunnel; a hollow space due to gas
expansion; or a hole formed by gas or steam expansion or explosion in
the lava while it is still soft or flowing; and which is now
accessible where the top has fallen in or where it has reached the
face of a cliff. These still exist practically as they were at the
time of their formation.
Of remains upon the surface, the clearing-up processes necessary for
cultivation, and the improvements in and around the towns and
villages, have either entirely destroyed them or so defaced them that
they are now only shapeless ruins. Most or all of the near-by caves
are in lava flows of comparatively recent origin and no reports of
interments in them could be definitely verified. Human bones were
found in three caves near Olaa, 10 miles from Hilo, but no objects of
any sort were with them. The condition of the bones showed they had
not been long deposited; in fact, with one skeleton were hobnailed
leather shoes, with the bones of the feet still in them.
Three skeletons were discovered in a small cave near the dock in
making an excavation for a railway cut. An old man living in the
vicinity protested vigorously against any disturbance of them, saying
they had been his friends and he had helped bury them. In deference to
his sentiment the line of the track was deflected so as not to disturb
the spot.
Nearly all of the bones mentioned above were soft and decayed, owing
to the water which had percolated through the roof and dripped on
them.
KILAUEA
It seemed probable that burials, or places where religious rites had
been performed, might be found in the vicinity of the volcano. A
number of caves were visited, but no evidence could be found to
indicate that bodies were ever deposited in them, and persons living
in that region had never heard of anything of the sort being found. A
few of the caves were dry, but most of them were wet or have become
obstructed by falling in of the sides or roof. Ledges and terraces
within the ancient crater may contain graves, but lava flows and ash
deposits have obliterated all traces of such if they ever existed.
WAIMEA
From 2 to 4 miles west of Waimea, on both sides of the road to
Kawaihae, are numerous stone walls, house sites, garden inclosures,
taro terraces, and other forms, of uncertain use and purpose. The
remains extend over many hundreds of acres. It is said that up to
about 1840 this was an important town, containing at one period about
17,000 inhabitants.
QUARRY ON MAUNA KEA
Waimea is the point from which to start for the quarries where the
ancients obtained the hard black stone for making adzes. A great
amount of work was done there, and refuse is abundant. It is 48 miles
from Waimea to the quarries, part of the way by cattle trail through
rough country, and they are at an elevation of more than 10,000 feet,
considerably above the winter snow line. An examination was not
attempted, as a visit to them involved securing a camping outfit and
hiring guides and helpers at exorbitant wages.
KAWAIHAE
The "Great Temple" built by King Kamehameha I is on a bluff 100 feet
high, separated from the beach by a low level space 100 yards wide.
This flat contains many stone structures, but their number, design,
and character can not be ascertained on account of the almost
impenetrable growth of algaroba. One of them is a rectangle about 50
by 150 feet, the walls high and thick; probably it is an older temple.
There is some modern work here, because in one place a wall is
cemented, perhaps by ranchmen.
The "Great Temple" measures 80 by 200 feet on the outside, 50 by 150
feet inside, longest north and south. The two ends and the side toward
the land are nearly intact and from 10 to 20 feet high according to
the surface of the ground. At the north end, inside, is a platform 80
feet north and south by 45 feet east and west, the four walls
carefully and regularly laid up, the space within them filled with
large stones, and the surface leveled with beach pebbles. It ends 4
feet within the wall next the sea, the top of this wall being on a
level with the bottom of the platform. At the south end is another
platform 40 feet east and west by 20 feet north and south, abutting
against the east and south walls. A step or terrace 6 feet wide
extends the full length of its north side. It has a less finished
appearance than the platform at the north end. The central space,
between the two, is paved with large stones which apparently pass
under both platforms and extend from the foot of the east wall nearly
to the west wall, a slight ditch separating it from the latter. The
west wall stands below the top of the slope, and its outer face is
from 10 to 20 feet high, in three platforms each 8 feet wide. On the
slope below are several structures a few feet square formed by two
parallel rows of stones with a cross wall at the lower ends, the
cellar-like space thus inclosed being filled with pebbles to a level
with the top of the walls.
From the northeast and northwest corners long walls extend northwest
and southwest toward the beach. Their outer ends are lost in the
thicket.
EAST POINT DISTRICT
From Kapoho southward to Kalapana and beyond many remains are
reported, but residents say they are of rather modern date, some of
them having been occupied since white people came into the country to
live. Lava flows of recent date have covered a few.
NAPOOPOO
The large heiau at which Captain Cook made his landing, and where he
allowed himself to be worshipped as a god, is about in its original
condition, having been repaired in recent years. When Captain Cook
attempted to seize the King as a prisoner, the natives naturally
rallied to the King's defense. A stone or other missile struck Cook on
the head.
Early in the last century an old Hawaiian who as a small boy witnessed
the affray told Rev. Mr. Paris (as related by his daughter) that if
Cook had been the god he pretended to be, the blow would not have hurt
him; but when he fell with a loud groan the people knew he was only a
man like themselves and, enraged at the deception practiced on them,
quickly made an end of him.
HONAUNAU
The wall of the City of Refuge is nearly intact, as is that of the
large heiau. Another heiau was destroyed by a tidal wave. The place is
now a public park. Stokes, of the Bishop Museum, has done much work
here and at Napoopoo. The result of his labors will be published.
KEAUHOU
The "Slide," made here in the time of King Kamehameha I, consists of
two stone walls from 50 to 75 feet apart, the space between them being
filled with stones to provide a level surface from side to side and to
equalize the slope from top to bottom. It begins a mile from the foot
of the hill, and its terminus was on a level area near the coast. The
lower end is now so displaced and overgrown for a fourth of a mile
that it can no longer be traced; the remainder of it is practically
intact. The slope is not uniform, being somewhat determined by the
natural surface, so that it is steeper in some parts than in others.
Near the upper end some short stretches are quite steep, presenting
from below the appearance of terraces. In places, flat stones are laid
pavement fashion from side to side, or rows of stones which seem to be
the tops of walls extend across. These were probably to prevent
crawling of the smaller material used as a leveler. The slide,
according to an old Hawaiian, was covered with one variety of grass,
on which was laid another variety; but he could not say whether the
two layers had their stems parallel or crosswise. Kukui-nut oil was
used plentifully to act as a binder and to give a slick surface. The
"sliders," as well as he could remember the description of them, were
like sleds with runners; not flat boards like a toboggan. Small
depressions here and there, either basin-shaped or well-shaped, have
led to excavations in the hope of finding something; but they are due
only to falling-in of tubes, tunnels, or bubbles in the lava.
A somewhat similar but very much smaller slide is said to be on the
coast 40 miles south of this one. At present it can be reached only
from the shore, making a canoe voyage necessary.
Two ruined and overgrown heiaus are near the water line a mile from
the slide. Both are built on bare lava, and at very high tides waves
dash over them. Possibly the shore has sunk since they were built.
Near by, on the flat lava, covered by every tide, are rock carvings
rudely resembling the outlines of human figures. They must be of
rather recent origin, as the stone is constantly subject to wear by
the shingle. Stokes has copied them.
MOOKINI
At the extreme northwest corner of the island of Hawaii is a heiau in
excellent preservation, there being but few fallen stones. The ground
around is entirely free of growth except for grass and a few weeds,
which may explain its appearance of newness; it has a very modern
aspect, though it seems to antedate the discovery. It measures 120 by
275 feet, longest east and west. The east wall is 11 feet high with a
narrow terrace from end to end about midway the height. The north wall
is 18 feet high. The south wall, which is in a somewhat irregular
line, is 5 to 6 feet high. On the outside of the south wall, which
forms one side of each, are two inclosures. One, near the east corner,
measures 65 feet east and west and 15 feet wide, with its west wall at
the edge of an opening which gives access to the interior of the
heiau. The wall of this inclosure is 4 feet high. The other inclosure
measures 21 feet east and west by 28 feet north and south, the west
end flush with the west end of the temple. Its wall is 3 feet high.
The main west wall is 12 feet high. A platform 2 to 4 feet wide,
probably a seat or bench, extends along the inside of the south wall.
An interior wall 4 feet high, not straight but approximately parallel
with the north wall, with a space 10 to 15 feet wide separating them,
has one end against the east wall, the other end coming near enough to
the west wall to leave only a narrow passageway.
The entire space inside is paved with large stones; on these, as a
floor, are several walls whose purpose is not clear; they run in
various directions. Near the west end are some small inclosures, also
a raised platform in which are 13 "wells," said to be intended to
"hold the blood of those offered up as a sacrifice." Possibly the
bodies or bones of victims were placed in them, though it is more
probable that they held posts or idols.
On the outside, 20 feet from the west wall, is a "sacrifice stone," 6
by 8 feet, averaging 15 inches thick. It is somewhat dished, with a
natural depression 12 inches deep.
The heiau is about 200 yards from the ocean. Walls, like fallen
fences, extend diagonally from the corners at the west end; the
northern one terminates 200 yards away on an outcrop of lava; the
southern one has about the same length and ends 50 feet from a similar
wall that reaches in a rude semicircle, convex uphill, for 300 yards
to the top of a cliff over the ocean. On the opposite side of a small
cove within the farther end of this wall is a stone which is known to
the natives as the "Shark" or the "Shark God." It is 8½ feet long, 32
inches across at the widest part, averages 14 inches thick, and has
somewhat the shape of a coffin with narrowed ends. Lying just on the
break of the slope, it inclines slightly down the bank. The end toward
the water is carved in a fairly good representation of a turtle's
head; on the opposite end are nine artificial cup-like depressions
from 1½ to 3 inches in diameter with a depth rather less than half the
width; three are on top, three on the end, three on the lower side.
Like any long stone supported at the center with the ends free, it
gives a metallic note when struck with a knife or other small piece
of metal. It is already defaced by curious experimenters, and will
probably be broken up some day in search of the "treasure" inside, or
to "see where the music comes from."
For nearly a mile south of the heiau, covering the space between the
ocean cliff and a line approximately parallel to it a fourth of a mile
up the hill, are many inclosures and long walls. Low walls surround
spaces 10 to 15 feet across, filled level with earth, which are either
house sites or burial places. Some inclosures, still smaller, with no
break in the wall, are supposed to be graves; and graves may also be
marked by the many small piles of stones. Other stone heaps, some
straight, some crescent-shaped, from 10 to 20 feet long, all the
curved ones convex to the windward, were wind shelters. Some of them
are known to be made by modern hunters as blinds in plover shooting.
In at least two places are long parallel rows of large stones placed
singly, 1 foot to 3 feet apart, the rows separated by a space of from
4 to 6 feet. One set has a dozen or more rows.
Inside of one of the inclosures, directly up the hill from the old
landing, is a large stone with an artificial depression of 2 gallons
capacity. It was intended as a mortar for pounding nuts.
LAUPAHOEHOE
An old lava flow has pushed out into the ocean in a shape somewhat
resembling "a leaf floating on the water," which is the meaning of the
word. It forms a nearly level area of 12 or 13 acres, only a few feet
above tide. Toward the outer end are numerous walls and inclosures,
mostly in ruins and overgrown with trees and bushes. Some of them are
clearly modern; others are ancient. Near the lighthouse are the
remnants of a heiau; only a part of its walls can be traced.
A wall 3 feet high, beginning at a large stone at one corner, incloses
a space 26 by 27 feet, outside measurement; the interior is filled
with earth and small stones to a level with the top of the walls. At
the end toward the ocean, is a platform 20 feet wide, terminating 50
feet from the sea. On this platform is a space 7 by 12 feet, outlined
by large rocks. Halfway between the platform and the water is a wall
which may be recent.
Near this inclosure is one hexagonal in outline, the walls 2 feet
high, and the space inside, 11 by 17 feet, filled with earth to a foot
above the top of the wall.
On top of the bluff, 350 feet above tide level, is a heiau the west
wall of which was removed in making a deep cut for the railway. The
inside dimensions are 70 feet east and west, 115 feet north and south.
The interior area, originally irregular, was somewhat leveled, and
covered with a pavement of cobblestones which were carried up from the
beach, as were many of the large stones in the wall. The pavement has
been torn up in cultivating the ground. The wall is from 4 to 6 feet
high inside. This is a little more than the original height, as it was
repaired and raised for use as a corral. Along the outside of the
north wall, at the west end, is a heavy wall which, with the main
wall, forms a "well," nearly filled with rocks. There are no
supporting platforms outside, but along the north and east walls are
revetments reaching halfway up the face. The southeast corner is
rounded and braced or buttressed. These forms of support have been
noticed in only one other place. There is a house site within, at the
northeast corner. On the wall, placed there in adding to its height,
were a broken taro pestle and a very dense siliceous rock, of high
specific gravity, and filled with olivines. It weighs about 75 pounds.
The ends have been chipped off to give it an ellipsoidal form,
otherwise the wave-worn surface is unworked, except that one of its
larger faces is rubbed smooth, almost polished, by use as a grinding
stone, for which purpose it is excellently adapted by reason of its
unusual abrasive quality.
* * *
MAUI ISLAND
There are not many aboriginal structures on Maui, but among those
which can be found are some of extreme interest on account of their
size and complicated arrangement.
KAUPO, OR MOKULAU