At first sight the cairns appeared to be only piles of stones thrown

together; but more careful inspection showed that each burial place

was outlined by a wall, laid up with as much regularity as was

practicable with the material at hand, and inclosing a space

approximately square. Measuring from face to face of their walls, the

spaces between these cairns were as follows: (1) to (2), 21 feet; (2)

to (3), 19 feet; (3) to (4), 36 feet; (4) to (5), 34 feet.

Not one of these walls was intact at the time of examination; hunters

had torn away portions of all of them in pursuit of small animals

which had sought refuge among the stones; and such parts as were not

thus injured were more or less displaced by roots of trees penetrating

in every direction the soil which had accumulated in the open spaces.

So far as could be judged in their chaotic condition, the first step

in their construction was to lay a row of slabs around the area

required; then another row upon this; and the work was continued in

this manner until the desired height was reached. As a rule, the

stones were so laid as to break joints and to interlock at the

corners, for greater stability; but in a few places this was not done.

If a stone, once laid up, did not fit as it should, the builders

apparently did not take the trouble to replace it with another better

suited to the requirements. Seemingly, care was taken to build in such

a manner that each outer face should be vertical, and in a straight

line from corner to corner; but the inner side was left rough and

irregular according to the shape and size of the blocks, no attempt

being made to even it up. If timbers of any kind had been laid across

the top, resting on the walls, there remained no indication of the

fact. However, the bodies may have been protected at the time of

interment by small vaults or pens constructed of poles, whose decay

would allow the stones to settle, and of which no traces would now be

left.

The space inclosed by the walls was filled with loose stones lying in

such disorder as to suggest that they had been carelessly or hastily

thrown in to fill the interior and round up the top; but some of this

confusion may have resulted from the same causes by which the walls

were defaced.

It does not appear that any stones had been piled against the outside

of the walls to assist in retaining them in place; such as were found

in this position were either thrown there by the present inhabitants

or had fallen from the top.

Two of the cairns, the second and the third in order, were so torn up

and overgrown that no investigation of them was attempted; the three

others were fully examined.

CAIRN (1)

In the first, that nearest the terminus of the ridge, all stones lying

against the outside of the structure were thrown aside, bringing the

outer face into plain view. The inclosure thus revealed resembled the

rude foundation of a small building. Measuring from corner to corner

the north wall was 14 feet long, the south wall 16 feet, the east wall

14 feet, the west wall 13 feet. The walls were as straight and the

corners as square as they could well be made with surface rocks not

trimmed or dressed from their natural rough condition.

The space within was next freed of stones; the topmost were 3 feet

above the outside level, though no doubt higher when first piled. The

inside measurements were: North wall 10 feet, south wall 10 feet, east

wall 9 feet, west wall 9 feet; all measurements being approximate, as

no definite boundaries could be determined.

The south wall was practically destroyed; the others were not much

injured, but no longer plumb, as they undoubtedly were when

constructed. The east wall was in best condition; the outer face was

nearly vertical; the top of the highest stone remaining in it was 28

inches above the bottom of the lowest. The general appearance of the

wall indicates that it was somewhat higher.

After the stones were thrown out there remained a deposit of loose

material, composed to some extent of very scanty soil and of humus

from decayed weeds and leaves, but principally of disintegrated

sandstone which had settled or washed in. Its thickness above bedrock

was about 16 inches. All this was carefully examined.

Near the center, a few inches above the natural bedrock, were some

fragments of human bones which seemed to belong to two adults. Another

adult body, or skeleton, bundled or closely folded, had been placed

against the south wall, which had partially fallen in on it. Pieces of

long bones, including heads of two femurs, the ends of the bones at an

elbow, phalanges, and a fragment of rib were found in a space less

than a foot across. Nothing more of them remained and nothing else was

found.

CAIRN (4)

The fourth grave in order was worked out in the same manner as the

first. On the outer face the north wall measured 14 feet, the south

wall 15½ feet, the east wall 16 feet, the west wall 14 feet. The

interior lengths were: North wall 12 feet, south wall 11½ feet, east

wall 12 feet, west wall 11 feet.

Near the center were a few fragments of bone, with a columella bead 4

inches long, perforated lengthwise. It is shown in figure 18. To the

east of these, also to the south, were other fragments, indicating, in

all, at least three interments.

[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Columella bead from Cairn (4), Devil's

Elbow.]

CAIRN (5)

In grave No. 5 the walls on the north and the south were entirely torn

out except some stones in the bottom row of each; the upper portions

of the east and the west walls were also gone. For this reason the

rocks lying outside the structure were not removed.

The north wall, outside, was 15 feet long; the south wall, 14 feet;

the east wall, 16 feet; the west wall, 14½ feet. The corresponding

inner measurements were, north wall, 10 feet; south wall, 10 feet;

east wall, 12 feet; west wall, 12 feet. But as the position of the

corners was uncertain these figures are no doubt somewhat in error in

either direction.

The central portion had never been disturbed, the stones lying as they

were put originally, except for a possible settling due to their

weight; the top of the rounded heap was about 4 feet high. This

justified the hope that something might be discovered beneath them.

But although the entire space within, up to the fairly defined inner

faces of the walls, was thoroughly cleaned out down into the untouched

gravelly subsoil, no trace of a bone or other indication of a burial

was found. The only artificial object was a section 3¼ inches long of

a columella perforated lengthwise, apparently lost by the wearer, as

it lay on the natural surface. This is shown in figure 19.

[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Columella bead from Cairn (5), Devil's

Elbow.]

CAIRNS ON HELM'S FARM

To the north of the Ross farm, on the ridge which is owned by Daniel

Helm, are three stone graves made of shapeless limestone blocks such

as cover the surface around them. One of these is about 300 yards

from the bluff, on a knoll capped with the sandstone; the others are

at the break of the ridge. All have been opened, two of them

practically demolished. Those on the end of the ridge are only 14 feet

apart, measuring from their adjacent margins, and were about 16 and 20

feet in diameter as built, both being somewhat widened now owing to

the stones having been thrown outward from the central parts by

hunters. Each was probably 3 feet high.

The smaller, being least defaced and nearly free from timber, was

entirely removed, except a small portion along one margin, and the

earth beneath it examined down to the bedrock. There was no sign of a

wall; but one that would stand could not be made with stones rounded

by weathering.

Remains of at least three bodies were found. One was laid in a

crevice; only a few fragments of the long bones were left. With scraps

of bone from another body were four teeth worn almost to the roots.

They were not close together, but this was due to small burrowing

animals which had scattered them. Of the third body, a few pieces of

arm and leg bones remained. By itself, loose in the earth, was a

single molar, not in the least worn, and with a very small root.

So far as appearances go, it seems the bodies were laid on outcropping

rock, or in crevices, and stones piled on them without any attempt at

order or arrangement.

The graves on the Helm farm are merely piles of stone, such as are

found in various States. Those on the Ross place are of the same type

as the cairns on Lost Hill at the mouth of Gourd Creek in Phelps

County, but of a more advanced form. In both places flat stones were

laid to inclose the burials. At Lost Hill, however, there was seldom

more than a single layer, while at the Devil's Elbow a regular wall

was built, seven superposed slabs being observed at one point with a

certainty that others had been placed above these. They are not of the

same class as the walled graves found in earth mounds along the

Missouri River. In the latter, the inner face of the wall was as

smooth and regular as it could be made, the outside being rough and

upheld by stones and earth piled against them; while in those on Big

Piney care was taken with the outer face which, it seems, was intended

to be left exposed to view, while the inside was rough and hidden by

stones thrown in. But no inference must be drawn from the different

methods of filling or covering the vaults after they were completed.

Along the Missouri, earth was abundant right at hand, but stones had,

as a rule, to be carried some distance; while on the bluffs of the

Gasconade and its tributaries the reverse was the case.

Petroglyphs, 75 feet above the level of the river bottom, are reported

to be cut in a bluff facing the Gasconade River on the east side, 2

miles below the mouth of Big Piney.

* * * * *

A rock shelter not more than 15 feet wide and 10 feet deep is near the

top of the bluff overlooking the Gasconade, almost opposite the mouth

of Big Piney. It contains a quantity of ashes, but as it was

frequently resorted to by bushwhackers during the Civil War, and is

still much used by trappers and hunters who camp in it, these are

probably not due to Indians.

ASH CAVE

So near to the county line that there is some uncertainty as to

whether it lies in Pulaski or Phelps County is Ash Cave in a bluff

over Baker's Lake, an artificial pond, 4 miles west of Arlington. The

cave is small, and notwithstanding its name it contains no ashes or

other remains of occupancy. The great number of large rocks on the

floor makes examination impossible.

CLEMMENS CREEK CAVE (27)

At the head of a ravine opening into Clemmens Creek, about 4 miles

south of Dixon, near the Piquet orchards, is a cavern with an entrance

55 feet wide and 40 feet high. The depth is 110 feet to loose rocks

and clay, partly from the sides and roof, partly washed in through

side caves and crevices. There is a small amount of cave earth along

one wall, but it is damp, moldy, and covered with a growth of minute

green fungus. Most of the floor, however, is of clay strewn with loose

rocks and swept over by water at times.

There is no refuse, and the cave was never fit for habitation.

CAMDEN COUNTY

ALONG THE NIANGUA RIVER (28)

It is widely known that many caverns exist along the Niangua River and

its tributaries, in Camden County, especially in the vicinity of

Hahatonka, or, as it is locally termed, "Tonky." This is one of the

show places of Missouri. The name includes a post office; a store; a

school; an immense spring coming out at the foot of a cliff; the creek

formed by this spring; a lake of several hundred acres, made by

damming the creek; a picturesque ruined mill with the usual

accessories of such a building; numerous caves; and a magnificent, but

unfinished, residence crowning one of the hills. This has already

called for an expenditure of half a million dollars; and at least

double that sum, additional, will be required to complete it in

accordance with the original plans. Whether it be due to the national

appreciation of architectural beauty or the national appreciation of

ability to do things in a large way, the palace seems to impress most

visitors more than the remarkable combination of natural features.

The principal caves in the vicinity have distinctive names, as "Onyx"

(there being two thus called), "Robbers'," "River" (this because there

is a stream in it which can be crossed only in a boat), "Bridal," etc.

Others are named for the owners of the land, or from some peculiarity,

as "Dry," "Bunch," "Morgan," "Arnholdt." Many are not deemed of

sufficient importance to have specific titles.

All those named were visited, as well as a number of the others.

A detailed description is not necessary. Not one of these caverns has

ever been occupied unless as a temporary shelter. Some are flooded at

intervals, either from the outside or by interior drainage; some have

very restricted entrances and are dark at the front; some have rock

floors or muddy bottoms; some can be entered only by clambering over

talus to an opening at the bottom, or near the bottom, of a sink hole.

Some shallow cavities, which under different conditions would be

available as rock shelters, are in places difficult of access, remote

from water, or otherwise unsuitable.

Some of these caverns have wonderful deposits on ceilings, walls, and

floors, rivaling in beauty and ornate patterns those of the most

famous caves of the country; and if they were easily accessible or

could be conveniently explored, would attract hosts of visitors. One

in particular, the "Bridal Cave," so called from a mass of stalactite

material fully 10 feet from side to side at the top, which hangs in

delicate translucent loops and folds and convolutions, equals Luray or

Wyandotte for beauty, though not for extent.

* * * * *

It was reported that two walled graves stand on a "bald" on the farm

of Will Robert Eidson, on the divide between the Niangua and the

Little Niangua Rivers, about 4 miles north of Roach post office. They

were described as "rocks laid up in a regular wall about 4 feet high,

and about 30 steps square, and filled up inside with rocks." A visit

to the site disclosed two ordinary cairns, made by throwing weathered

limestone boulders into a rounded heap. Both piles have been

scattered, and as they now exist one is about 25 feet, the other about

30 feet across. Such exaggerated, misleading descriptions are common,

and result in much fruitless investigation.

Several caves are reported in the vicinity of Toronto, in Camden and

Miller Counties; especially the Cokely Cave, 4 miles from Brumley on

the Linn Creek road. From the descriptions given by informants, none

of them appear to be suitable for habitation.

Many cairns exist on the ridges in this region, especially on high

points overlooking valleys. All of them were built up with chert or

limestone blocks, and all are more or less torn up. So far as could be

learned there is no sign of a wall in any of them.

In the present state of knowledge, Camden County offers no inducement

for archeological research.

A FOSSIL CAVE (29)

The geological deposits in this region comprise three principal

formations which are named in the State report as the Jefferson City

limestone, the Roubidoux sandstone, and the Gasconade limestone. It is

in the last (which is the lowest) that caverns are found.

In various places erosion, either internal or superficial, or both,

has formed crevices or sink holes through which the disintegrated

sandstone finds its way into caverns below, where it accumulates and

hardens until more resistant than when in its original condition.

Further erosion has in several places carried away the limestone from

around these intrusive masses, allowing them to project above the

present surface. Sometimes, where the sand piled up, they resemble

haystacks; but usually they are of indefinite form, having spread out

on the floor of the cavern, as such material will do in a shallow

stream.

An interesting example of this action is the "Standing Rock," 4 miles

west of Linn Creek, the county seat. Here was formerly a large cave

with an eastward trend until near the mouth, when it turned sharply

southward, the opening being in the direction of a little stream. The

lower end of this cave became solidly filled with sand, and the water

found an outlet farther back. All the limestone which formed the roof

and walls of the middle portion of the cave is gone, a narrow ravine

marking its course. The sandstone obstruction held its place, and now

extends directly across the ridge between the two ravines. Its surface

is an exact cast of the interior of the cave which it filled, and

nodules of chert, remaining when the limestone dissolved, are still

imbedded in its surface. The line of demarkation between the limestone

matrix, where this still exists in part, and the siliceous filling is

as distinct as that between the stone and brick in a building. The

loose cave earth shows plainly under the sandstone near the former

mouth of the cavern. Plan and section are shown in figures 20 and 21.

* * *

MILLER COUNTY

WRIGHT CAVE (30)

A mile and a half west of Brumley, near Glaize Creek, is Wright, or

Brumley, Cave. The entrance is 15 feet high and 40 feet wide. At 20

feet from the mouth the width contracts to 20 feet. The depth is 120

feet in daylight to a stalagmite floor. Dry cave earth extends for 35

feet from the entrance, at which distance it reaches tough, sticky

clay; this continues to the stalagmite. Above the clay are growing

stalactites.

[Illustration: FIG. 20.--Plan of Fossil Cave.]

In front of the entrance were a few flint chips, but no indications of

pottery or shell. A small implement, shown in figure 22, was found

which is of interest because it was worked to a sharp point at one end

of a narrow drill, while the other end widened into a squared form

with a straight base which was dulled and polished from use as a

cutting tool; the entire surface was polished from long service. An

object of this kind would be highly suitable for mending moccasins and

leggins. Finding this and nothing else strengthens the probability

that this cave was used as a temporary camping place, but was never

permanently occupied.

[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Section of Fossil Cave.]

WILSON CAVE (31)

Facing Barren Fork of Tavern Creek, on the farm of John R. Bond, 8

miles northwest of Iberia and 12 miles southeast of Tuscumbia, is a

cave celebrated by reason of a provision in the will of a former

eccentric owner.

There is a small cave which has an opening in the bluff, a few feet to

one side of the larger cave. This can be reached only by means of

ladders 60 feet long.

Jack Wilson came from Ireland and settled on Tavern (or Cavern) Creek

in 1822. For a number of years he lived in this cave, with his

family. He died in 1855, leaving instructions that his body was to be

packed in salt and placed in the small cave, "with a ten-gallon cask

of good whisky," the entrance then to be sealed up. In order to carry

out his last wishes, and at the same time to give him a "Christian

burial," his wife had all his internal organs removed and interred in

a cemetery; his body was filled with salt, and placed in a coffin,

which, according to his wishes, was deposited in the cave, with the

whisky. On the seventh anniversary of his death the whole community

was to assemble to "eat, drink, and be merry." For many years

residents in the vicinity had used the cave as a place for festive

gatherings; but this occasion was to be on a scale beyond anything

previously attempted. If necessary, Scriptural methods were to be

employed; that is, messengers were to be sent out in all directions,

urging every one to come. The floor was to be enlarged, and a platform

erected on it. When all were assembled, the whisky and the coffin were

to be brought from their resting place and set on the platform. Then

certain famous fiddlers were to ascend the platform and play, while

the guests danced. When the whisky was exhausted, and the fiddlers in

the same condition, the picnic was over and the assembly would

disperse. The coffin was then to be replaced in the little cave, which

was to be again sealed up, not to be reopened until the Day of

Judgment.

[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Perforator and knife from Wright Cave.]

The preliminaries were carried out according to program, but when the

time for the celebration came round the people were more concerned

with the Civil War, and especially in the activities of the

bushwhackers who infested that part of the country, than they were in

picnics; and Wilson's resurrection was brought about by persons whose

identity was never discovered. They got into his tomb in some manner,

drank all the whisky, broke open the coffin, and threw Wilson's bones

to the outside, where they were scattered down the slope. Horrified

relatives gathered them up, replaced them in the cave, sealed it

again, and Wilson is still there awaiting his final summons.

The entrance is 20 feet high and 45 feet wide. Dry cave earth extends

for 135 feet; from this point it continues, partially filled with

fallen rock and stalagmite, 40 feet farther, or 175 feet in all, in

plain daylight, at which distance the cave makes a turn; and the cave

earth was followed in this to complete darkness without coming to its

termination.

Beginning 100 feet from the entrance and extending for 35 feet, a

narrow row of loose rocks fallen from the outcrop of stratum along the

center of the roof lies on the surface. The cavern here measures 35

feet in width.

There is a wet weather stream along one wall, but the amount of water

passing out is never large.

Solid bedrock, with patches of cave earth on it, is exposed, in

slightly rising strata, for 10 feet from the little bluff at the

mouth; within this it is hidden by the earth which gradually rises to

a height of 6 feet; but some of this rise may be due to increased

elevation of the rock floor. The entire cave can be easily cleared out

to the stalagmite; and it would be advisable to remove at least

portions of this in order to ascertain what may lie beneath it.

Refuse appears in considerable quantity in the bottom of the little

stream bed and under the receding walls; and likewise a small amount

outside the entrance. But the bedrock crops out frequently in narrow

ledges between the mouth of the cavern and the foot of the hill, so

very little débris of any kind lies on the slope outside.

Some alteration of the surface of the earth floor has taken place in

consequence of the construction of platforms; but aside from this it

has remained practically undisturbed.

BAGNELL CAVE (32)

A large cavern is near the top of the "Bagnell Hill" on the Bagnell

and Linn Creek road, on the right (south) side of the Osage River, and

about 3 miles from the town of Bagnell. On account of the "millions"

of bats which shelter in it, the name of Bat Cave is applied to this

as it is to many other caves in the region.

The entrance is so small that the cavern can be entered only by

crawling in; and as no traces of Indian remains have ever been

observed in it, or around the front, no examination was deemed

necessary.

BODE CAVE (33)

Half a mile south of St. Elizabeth is the Ben Bode Cave. The roof has

fallen in near the front, leaving the original exterior standing as a

natural bridge a few feet wide. The present entrance to the cavern is

40 feet behind the bridge. It has a wet, rocky floor, and much water

flows through it after a rain.

LUCKENHOFF CAVE

On John Luckenhoff's farm, three-fourths of a mile south of St.

Elizabeth, facing Tavern Creek, is a small cave with a rocky floor.

The entrance is nearly blocked with a mass of stalagmite, behind which

the cave is dark.

JURGGENMEYER CAVE

It was reported that in a "cave" on the farm of Conrad Jurggenmeyer,

2½ miles east of St. Elizabeth, a human skull was discovered. The

statement may be true; but instead of a cave there is only a tunnel a

few rods in length. Beyond the upper arch is an open ravine.

DAERHOFF CAVE

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