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* * * * *
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION
BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY
BULLETIN 76
ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS
I. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN THE OZARK REGION
OF CENTRAL MISSOURI
II. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN OTHER STATES
III. EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER
BLUFFS IN KANSAS AND NEBRASKA
IV. ABORIGINAL HOUSE MOUNDS
V. ARCHEOLOGICAL WORK IN HAWAII
BY
GERARD FOWKE
WASHINGTON
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1922
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL
SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION,
BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY,
_Washington, D.C., February 17, 1920._
SIR: I have the honor to transmit the accompanying manuscript,
entitled "Archeological Investigations," by Gerard Fowke, and to
recommend its publication, subject to your approval, as a
bulletin of this bureau.
Very respectfully,
J. WALTER FEWKES,
_Chief._
DR. CHARLES D. WALCOTT,
_Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution._
CONTENTS
I. Cave Explorations in the Ozark Region of Central Missouri
Page
Introduction 13
The Upper Current River 18
Shannon County 18
Bat Cave 18
Blue Spring, or Fishing Cave 18
Welch's Cave 18
Big Creek Cave 18
Texas County 19
Smith Caves 19
Saltpeter Cave 19
Dent County 20
Mammoth Cave 20
Guthoerl Cave 20
Short Bend Cave 20
Money Cave 21
Saltpeter Cave 21
Watson, Twin, or Onyx Caves 22
House mounds 22
Phelps County 22
Bates Cave 22
Another "Bates Cave" 23
Renaud Cave 23
Marsh Caves 23
Wild-hog Cave 23
Shelters 24
Phelps Cave 24
"Key Rocks" 24
Jones Cave 24
Yancy Mills Cave 24
Lane Mound 24
Cairns on Lost Hill, at mouth of Gourd Creek 24
Exploration of the Gourd Creek Cave 28
Onyx Cave 34
Goat Bluff Cave 35
Cairns at Sugar Tree Camp 40
Tick Creek Cave 41
Cave in Pool Hollow 41
House mounds near Rolla 41
House mounds near Dillon 42
House mounds near St. James 42
Pulaski County 42
McWilliams Cave 42
Davis Caves 42
Berry Cave 43
Maxey Cave 43
Yoark Cave 43
Graves at Laughlin's 44
Kerr Cave 44
Sell Cave 45
Phillips Cave 51
Bell's Cave 51
Camp-ground Cave 51
Bucher Cave 51
Graves near McKennan's 52
Roubidoux Cave 52
Richland Cave 52
Rollins Caves 52
Mix Cave 53
Double Cave 54
Railroad Cave 55
Bat, or Page, Cave 55
Tunnel Cave 56
Brooks Cave 56
Riddle Cave 56
Lane's Cave 56
Dry Creek Cave 56
House mounds 56
Riden's Cave 57
Saltpeter Cave 57
Miller's Cave 57
Ramsey's Cave 81
Graham Cave 83
Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave 83
Woodland Hollow Cave 84
Walled graves at Devil's Elbow 84
Cairns on Helm's farm 87
Ash Cave 89
Clemmens Creek Cave 89
Camden County 89
Along the Niangua River 89
A fossil cave 91
Miller County 91
Wright Cave 92
Wilson Cave 94
Bagnell Cave 94
Bode Cave 94
Luckenhoff Cave 94
Jurggenmeyer Cave 94
Daerhoff Cave 95
Cave near mouth of Tavern Creek 95
Bat Cave 95
Grave at mouth of Saline Creek 95
Stark's Cave 96
House mounds 96
Cairns 96
Maries County 96
Indian Ford Cave 96
Lackaye's Bluff Cave 97
Hurricane Bluff Cave 97
Stratman Cave 98
Osage County 98
River Cave 98
Rock-shelter 98
Steuffer Cave 99
Cairns 99
House mounds 99
"Indian Fort" 99
Cole County 100
Natural Bridge Cave 100
Morgan County 100
Speers Cave 100
House mounds 100
II. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN OTHER STATES
Introduction 101
Indiana 102
Lawrence County 102
Martin County 102
Orange County 106
Crawford County 107
Harrison County 111
Illinois 111
Monroe County 111
Kentucky 112
Hardin County 112
Hart County 112
Edmonson County 115
Warren County 118
Barren County 119
Monroe County 120
Logan County 122
Todd County 122
Tennessee 123
Montgomery County 123
Sullivan County 124
Bledsoe County 128
Sequatchie County 130
Grundy County 131
Franklin County 131
Marion County 132
Hamilton County 133
Alabama 133
Lauderdale County 133
Colbert County 134
Jackson County 135
Dekalb County 137
Marshall County 139
III. EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER BLUFFS IN KANSAS
AND NEBRASKA
Vicinity of White Cloud, Kansas 151
Iowa Point 152
Near the mouth of the Nemaha River 152
Vicinity of Troy, Kansas 153
Mouth of Mosquito Creek 153
Rulo, Nebraska 154
Near Howe, Nebraska 155
Peru, Nebraska 156
Papillion, Nebraska 156
Vicinity of Omaha, Nebraska 156
Long's Hill 157
IV. ABORIGINAL HORSE MOUNDS
New Madrid County 166
St. François County 166
V. ARCHAEOLOGICAL WORK IN HAWAII
Introduction 178
Molokai Island 179
The Rain Heiau 180
The sacrifice stones 181
Hawaii Island 182
Kilauea 183
Waimea 183
Quarry on Mauna Kea 183
Kawaihae 183
East Point district 184
Napoopoo 184
Honaunau 184
Keauhou 185
Mookini 185
Laupahoehoe 187
Maui Island 188
Kaupo, or Mokulau 188
Wailuku 188
Waihee 189
Burial places 190
In the Iao Valley 191
Kauai Island 191
Lihue 192
Wailua 192
Dune burials 193
Waimea 194
Conclusions 194
Index 197
ILLUSTRATIONS
PLATES
1. a, Cave on Big Piney River, Pulaski County, Mo.
b, Cave on Big Piney River, Texas County, Mo. 12
2. a, Bluff at Mouth of Spring Creek, Pulaski County,
Mo. b, Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave, Pulaski
County, Mo. 12
3. Map of area examined 18
4. Bone and antler implements from Gourd Creek Cave,
Phelps County, Mo. 34
5. Shell and flint objects from Gourd Creek Cave 34
6. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave, Phelps County, Mo. 38
7. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave 38
8. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave 38
9. Skull of child from Goat Bluff Cave 38
10. Flints from Goat Bluff Cave 38
11. Bone and antler implements from Goat Bluff Cave 38
12. Bone and antler implements from Goat Bluff Cave 38
13. a, Cairn 6 miles north of Arlington, Mo. b, Walled
grave 6 miles north of Arlington, Mo. 38
14. Cairns on Roubidoux Creek, 6 miles from Waynesville,
Mo. 46
15. Flints from Sell Cave, near Waynesville, Mo. 46
16. Objects from Sell Cave. a, Pestles or grinding
stones; b, celt, pottery disks, paint stones, and
skiver 46
17. Three skulls from Pulaski County, Mo. a, b, Skull
from Sell Cave; c, d, skull from Bell's Cave, near
Waynesville; e, f, skull from Miller's Cave 46
18. Teeth from Sell Cave and other caves, showing manner
and amount of wear 48
19. Teeth from Sell Cave and other caves, showing manner
and amount of wear 48
20. a, b, Skull from Miller's Cave, Pulaski County,
Mo.; c, part of skull of child from Miller's Cave 68
21. Skull of young woman from Miller's Cave 68
22. Skull of child from Miller's Cave 72
23. Diseased tibia of adult and diseased bones of child
from Miller's Cave 72
24. Skull of child from Miller's Cave 72
25. Cache of flints from ash bed in Miller's Cave 72
26. Flints from Miller's Cave 76
27. Flints from Miller's Cave 76
28. Flints from Miller's Cave 76
29. Axes and pestles from Miller's Cave 76
30. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78
31. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78
32. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78
33. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78
34. Bone and antler implements from Miller's Cave 78
35. Antler implements from Miller's Cave 78
36. Skivers, showing stages of manufacture, from Miller's
Cave 78
37. Shell spoons, pottery disks, and broken spoon made of
a deer's skull, from Miller's Cave 78
38. a, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking west;
b, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking north; c,
Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking south 180
39. a, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking south; b,
platform in Heiau A, looking southeast; c, paved way
in Heiau A, looking southwest 180
40. a, Paved way in Heiau A, looking north; b,
fireplace in Heiau A 180
41. a, Heiau B, on Molokai Island, looking northwest;
b, Heiau B, showing stone-paved interior, looking
northeast 180
42. a, The "Rain Heiau," Molokai Island, looking west;
b, The "Rain Heiau," looking south 180
43. a, The "Rain Heiau," looking north; b, The "Rain
Heiau," looking southwest 180
44. a, The "Sacrifice Stones," on Molokai Island,
looking southwest; b, The "Sacrifice Stones,"
looking west 180
45. a, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking northwest; b,
the "Sacrifice Stones," looking south 180
TEXT FIGURES
1. Outline of Cairn (1), at Lost Hill, Phelps County, Mo. 26
2. Outline of Cairn (2), at Lost Hill, Phelps County, Mo. 26
3. Pipe from Cairn (2) 27
4. Outline of Cairn (3), Lost Hill 28
5. Fragment of glass bottle from Goat Bluff Cave 37
6. Pot from Goat Bluff Cave 39
7. Grooved ax from Goat Bluff Cave 40
8. Perforated object of antler from Sell Cave 48
9. Rubbing or polishing stone from Sell Cave 48
10. Flints from Sell Cave 49
11. Incised figure in sandstone near Miller's Cave 61
12. Incised figures in sandstone near Miller's Cave 61
13. Plan of Miller's Cave 62
14. Clay pipe from Miller's Cave 69
15. Perforated bone object from Miller's Cave 79
16. Adz or gouge of chert from Miller's Cave 79
17. Clay pipe from Miller's Cave 80
18. Columella bead from Cairn (4), Devil's Elbow 87
19. Columella bead from Cairn (5), Devil's Elbow 87
20. Plan of Fossil Cave 92
21. Section of Fossil Cave 92
22. Perforator and knife from Wright Cave 93
23. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 18 feet 144
24. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 20 feet 144
25. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 22 feet 144
26. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 26 feet 145
27. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 28 feet 145
28. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 30 feet 145
29. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 35½ feet 146
30. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 47½ feet 146
31. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 60 feet 146
32. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 70 feet 147
33. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 90 feet 147
34. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 93 feet 148
35. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 175 feet 149
36. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 180 feet 149
37. Plan of House Mound in St. François County, Mo. 168
* * * * *
[Illustration: PLATE 1 a, Cave on Big Piney River, three miles
east of Big Piney, Pulaski County. Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J.
Heuer, St. Louis)]
[Illustration: PLATE 1 b, Cave on Big Piney River, in Texas
County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)]
[Illustration: PLATE 2 a, Bluff at mouth of Spring Creek, Pulaski
County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)]
[Illustration: PLATE 2 b, Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave,
Pulaski County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)]
ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS
I. EXPLORATIONS IN THE OZARK REGION OF CENTRAL MISSOURI
BY GERARD FOWKE
INTRODUCTION
The geological structure of that portion of southern Missouri which
lies to the westward of the Archean rocks near the Mississippi River
is peculiarly suitable for the development of caverns. The Ozark
uplift produced far-reaching undulations, and there seem to have been
no violent disturbances which would result in extensive faults,
considerable displacements, or a pronounced inclination of the strata.
Jointing and pressure cleavage, however, gave rise to innumerable
crevices in the limestone, through which percolating surface water
found its way into all parts of the formations. By its solvent power
this water gradually enlarged the crevices into passages which,
multiplying and uniting, drained constantly increasing areas until
they formed subterranean streams with a perpetual flow. Thus began
caverns; and these grew in depth, width, and height as the rock was
eroded and dissolved. Tributary crevices were subject to the same
action; and there was finally created by each of these water systems a
network of cavities whose ramifications sometimes extend throughout
several townships. In time, sections of the roof, here and there,
became so thin from the combined erosion taking place both above and
below as to be unable to sustain their own weight; the overlying
strata fell into the cave, and the volume of water flowing through it
was augmented by drainage which had previously been disposed of on the
surface. All this had to seek an outlet somewhere, except in those
rare instances where it maintains its downward course until, below the
level of any open stream it can reach, it encounters an impervious
stratum and must lose itself in the deep rocks. Usually, however, it
emerges in the face of a bluff or on the side of a hill; and the
opening becomes "the mouth of a cave." Occasionally, in such
situations, the water continues to flow out; but usually it finds a
way to reach a lower level, and so the cave in time becomes dry
except for such water as seeps through from the earth immediately
above. Sometimes, too, the point of discharge is at or perhaps
somewhat below the level of a stream into which it passes; in the
Ozarks are numerous very large springs or fountains which by inverted
siphon or artesian action are forced up from subterranean streams
lying at a greater depth.
Few large caverns have the floor entirely dry, even when they are well
above the bottom of the valley. Deposits in the front portion may be
dry, perhaps dusty on the surface; but toward the interior moisture
usually accumulates until they are muddy or until the water stands in
pools or puddles. When this is the case there is sometimes a little
stream making its way to the front through a channel which it has cut;
or seepage may dampen, possibly saturate, the lowermost portions of
the otherwise dry earth. These details are controlled principally by
the direction and degree of slopes and by side openings which allow
more or less of the water to escape at some part of its journey.
When a cavern is fairly lighted and has a dry floor, whether of rock
or earth, it forms an excellent abode for a small community unable or
not disposed to construct shelters more comfortable or convenient; and
there is abundant evidence that many caves in the Ozarks were utilized
as habitations by the aborigines. It must be remembered, however, that
in the centuries which have elapsed since hunters or permanent
occupants first entered this region, many superficial changes have
taken place, not only about the entrances but within the caverns as
well. Very probably these alterations have converted caves once
occupied into places which at present are quite unfit for such
purposes. Talus has accumulated in front of the openings or partially
filled the front chambers; it may well be the case that this conceals
much refuse. Caves which, from similar deposits, are now difficult to
enter and dark to the doorway, may have been open and convenient.
Furthermore, caves with wet or muddy bottoms may owe such condition to
causes which have recently come into operation; or if they always
contained more or less water, the primitive dwellers could in many
cases have overcome such disadvantages by digging drains which have
since become choked and obliterated. Very small cavities, such as deep
rock-shelters; or caverns with a great thickness of earth on the
floors, now showing no trace of remains; or those with entrances so
small that it is necessary to crawl through--any of these, if cleared
out to the bottoms, might disclose material dating back to very early
times.
It might seem that the air in a cave constantly occupied would grow
stale and close; while smoke from the fires would in time become
annoying. But Indians used for fuel only dry wood and bark, the smoke
from which would be a negligible factor. The varying pressure of the
atmosphere outside creates a current of air in or out which is usually
imperceptible but which penetrates to the deepest recesses and insures
ventilation.
In view of the very primitive conditions under which cave dwellers
lived, as denoted by the artificial objects which they left, and the
low mentality indicated by the skulls, Mr. W.H. Holmes suggests that a
careful and extended study of these abodes may disclose a culture
lower than that prevailing among out-door dwellers in the same
localities. As no effort would be required to secure warmth and
shelter, and as food was abundant and easily procured, the people may
never have advanced from savagery, or may have retrograded.
None of these possibilities are taken into account when reporting upon
the caves described in the following pages; the information offered is
based entirely upon the present appearance of the places mentioned. To
attempt more would be merely offering guesses.
If "Cave Man"--using this term to designate the predecessor of any
race or tribe known to history--ever existed in the Mississippi Valley
he would not find in any part of it natural features better adapted
for his requirements than in the Ozark hills. But, so far, not the
slightest trace of his presence has been revealed. Products of human
industry have been reported as occurring at great depths under other
conditions, even at the bottom of the loess; though in all such cases
there is some uncertainty as to the correctness of the observations.
No similar reports have been made in regard to any cave yet explored.
On the contrary, whatever may be the depth of the deposit containing
them, the artificial objects exhumed are uniform in character from top
to bottom; the specimens found on the clay or solid rock floor are of
the same class as those barely covered by the surface earth. Moreover,
when they cease to appear they cease absolutely; the rock was swept
bare, or the clay was deposited, by the stream to which the cave owes
its existence, and each is a part of the original formation. In these
circumstances habitation would be out of the question.
By careful search in the caves and rock-shelters of which the Indian
known to history availed himself, extensive and interesting museum
collections can be made. To find an earlier man it will be necessary
to investigate caverns which he found suitable for occupancy and in
which the accumulation of detritus, from whatever source, has been
sufficient to cover his remains so deeply that they can not be
confused with those of a later period; and it may be necessary, also,
to discover with them bones of extinct animals. Should such a place
exist, it is extremely probable that there will be no outward
indication of the fact.
No examination of a cavern is complete or is to be deemed satisfactory
unless a depth is reached where the geological deposits are
undeniably of such age as to antedate the possible appearance of man
upon the scene. This is not assured until the excavation has reached
the original floor, which may be either the bed-rock or the clay left
by the eroding stream when its volume had become so diminished from
any cause that it was no longer able to keep its channel cleared out.
Unless a cave is almost perfectly dry--and few of them are--the bottom
can not be reached until all standing or soil water has been drained
off.
Notwithstanding the most explicit directions, a stranger without a
guide is frequently unable to find a cave unless its position is
plainly visible from some well-defined spot. The winding valleys and
the multitude of ravines sometimes bewilder even those living among
them.
A few definitions of terms, or explanations of statements in the
report, may prevent misunderstanding.
"Refuse," "signs," "indications," "evidence," referring to habitation
or occupancy, mean mussel shells; animal bones; burned or worked
stones; broken pottery; wrought objects of bone or shell; flint
implements, chips, or spalls; ashes; charcoal; in short, the material
ordinarily found on the site of an Indian village, some or all of
which are to be seen where the caverns have been used for shelter.
"Daylight" or "in daylight" is the greatest distance within the
entrance to a cavern at which common print may be easily read or the
nature of small objects lying on the floor determined with certainty.
"Drip rock," "cave rock," or "cave formation" are general terms
including stalactite or stalagmite; also deposits of similar origin
coating the walls. Not all of these may be present in the same cavern.
"Roof dust" is a substance, literally "lime sand," produced by the
superficial disintegration of the roof or walls. This process is
greatly accelerated where lichen or rock moss has gained a root hold
on the stone. Roof dust in a dry cavern is the equivalent of
stalagmite in a wet one.
"Cave earth" is the loose, loamy material usually found in the front
chambers of large caverns. It is made up of roof dust, sand, and silt
washed from the interior, outside dust and vegetable matter blown in
by the wind, with minute amounts of clay or soil carried in by
animals.
"Gravel" in a cavern is seldom noticeably water-worn, but is the
angular débris resulting from the continued fragmentation of chert
nodules released by erosion of the limestone.
A "rock shelter," or "shelter cave," is a room or recess formed by
atmospheric erosion in the face, usually at the base, of a cliff. The
depth from front to back, under the projecting or overhanging
unremoved bedrock above, is generally much less than the length as
measured along the face of the bluff. They are nearly always dry, more
or less protected from storms, and when of suitable size and in a
favorable location were much used as camping places. They are rather
rare in limestone formations but frequent in massive sandstone.
"House mounds" are small, low piles of earth, similar in all respects
to those so numerous in southeastern Missouri and southward. Although
they are usually described as "standing in regular rows," they are in
fact irregularly placed, though seldom as much as 100 feet apart in
the same group.
Measurements of caverns explored were made with a tape line; others
were estimated by stepping, or in the case of elevations, by sighting,
consequently are only approximate, but the figures given will in no
case exceed the actual distance.
Specimens reported from caves not excavated were found on the floor,
sometimes in situations where no addition of cave earth had taken
place since the objects were left there; at other times where they
were brought from below by burrowing animals; and, again, where they
are exposed in the bed or banks of a drainage channel.
In no cave so far examined has any evidence been found to show that
the aborigines occupied any part of it beyond such point as was
adequately illuminated from the entrance. No doubt they may, at times,
have retreated beyond the reach of daylight and been compelled to
dispel the darkness by means of fires; but such instances were rare
and of short duration. Statements are sometimes made that specimens,
usually flint implements, have been found far, possibly several
hundred yards, within the cavern. Such objects do not predicate
habitation at that distance; primitive explorers may have lost them.
It has been pointed out, too, by Mr. De Lancey Gill, that a wounded
animal, taking refuge in a cave and instinctively seeking its dark
recesses, may carry in an arrow or spear whose point remains when the
shaft has decayed. In the case of a large mammal, such as a bear or a
panther, a number of arrow or spear heads might be carried in and be
found close together long after the death of the victim.
Cairns or stone-covered graves are of common occurrence; but with a
single exception the rocks in all those visited or reported are more
or less displaced. This is due to hunters digging out small wild
animals making a den in them; to treasure seekers who believe that
"money" is concealed in them; and most of all to persons who are
curious to know "what there is in there."
The record of the investigations will be given by counties, beginning
at the south and proceeding northward. Descriptions and notes of the
sites mentioned will follow as closely as possible the same
arrangement. A number following the name of a cave refers to its
position as denoted by a corresponding number on the map (pl. 3).
THE UPPER CURRENT RIVER
A number of well-known caverns, some of them quite extensive, exist
along the head streams forming the Current River. As originally
planned, the work included a thorough survey of this region, but owing
to various causes it was only partially examined. Several large caves
were reported as being along the river and its tributaries farther
down than these researches were carried. Notable is one opposite the
mouth of Sinkin Creek, which was described as dry and very large
within; but it was also stated that it can only be entered through a
sink hole with the aid of a ladder or pole 30 feet long. Such a cave
is not likely to have been used for shelter. Others, as they were
described, seemed equally unfitted for this purpose. The only
exception to this general rule is one in Spring Valley south of the
Current and east of Sinkin.
Such as were visited will be described in their geographical order.
* * *
SHANNON COUNTY
BAT CAVE (1)
This cavern is 6 miles above the mouth of Sinkin. It is near the top
of a cliff, fully 300 feet above the river. The entrance is 30 feet
wide and 10 feet high; within is a level earth-covered floor. Being
very difficult of access, it was probably never inhabited.
BLUE SPRING, OR FISHING CAVE (1)
This is situated on the Terrell land, 4 miles below Akers post office.
The entrance, 10 feet high and 20 feet wide, is almost at low-water
level; the river at flood height rises fully 20 feet above its top.
Fifty feet within is a spring or well, 20 feet across, whose bottom is
beyond the reach of a line 60 feet long. It is said that eyeless fish
of 3 pounds weight have been caught in this "Blue Spring."
WELCH'S CAVE
This is 4 miles below Cedar Grove. It can be entered only in a boat,
and the entire floor is deeply covered with soft mud.
BIG CREEK CAVE
There is a cave at the mouth of Big Creek which is often used as a
temporary camping place by hunters and fishermen. The water enters
it whenever there is a freshet in either the creek or the river; so it
could never have served as a place of permanent abode.
[Illustration: PLATE 3: MAP OF AREA EXAMINED
(Numbers refer to corresponding numbers in text)]
* * *
TEXAS COUNTY
SMITH CAVES (2)
On James I. Smith's land, on Big Creek, a mile above Niles, are three
caves. One is merely a round opening 5 feet in width and height, soon
narrowing to a crevice; it would not be mentioned except that in it
was a sandstone slab such as mortars are made of. This bore no marks
of use; but it had been carried in for some purpose--possibly by white
men.
The second cave, 50 feet from the first, has an entrance 20 feet wide
and 4 to 5 feet high. Dry earth extends back for 40 feet; then come
clay and fallen rocks, sloping downward toward the rear. The roof
maintains its level as far as followed. No trace of occupation could
be found.
The third cave, 150 yards from the second, has an entrance 35 feet
wide and 20 feet high. Dry cave earth appears for 20 feet, at which
distance it merges with mud containing large rocks. The cavern extends
for 50 feet in daylight; water from the interior spreads over the
whole floor to the inner margin of dry earth, where it collects in a
little stream which passes out along the foot of one wall. The earth
deposit seems to be thin. The only objects that could be found in the
cave or about the entrance were a small sandstone slab, unmarked; a
small piece of deer bone; and one fragment of shell-tempered pottery.
Not a flake of flint was seen.
These caves are not worth working.
* * * * *
A fourth of a mile from the cave last mentioned is a rock grave on a
ledge which projects at about 40 feet (vertically) below the top of
the hill. As near as can be judged, in its present torn-up condition,
the cairn was originally about 10 by 20 feet in dimensions; so there
were probably two graves covered by the ordinary conical heaps of
stone, the depression between them being filled up to form a single
cairn.
SALTPETER CAVE (3)
Five miles west of Montauk, on Ashley Creek, is a cave noted for
having two entrances which are separated by a triangular mass of rock,
part of the original formation. This partition measures 30 feet across
at the face of the bluff and terminates within 20 feet. The principal
opening is 90 feet wide and 15 feet high. Dry cave earth extends back
90 feet, at which distance water constantly falls from the roof and
flows along the foot of one wall through the minor entrance. The
latter is 30 feet wide, 10 feet high, and its bottom is 10 feet lower
than that of the main opening. The volume of water passing out varies
with the seasons, but is sufficient at times to cover the entire floor
of the side chamber and keep it swept free of earth and small gravel.
In the front portion of the main cavern the dry earth is 5 feet deep
in its thickest part; but as it has all been leached for obtaining the
saltpeter or niter diffused through it, none of it is in the original
position. Some earth has also been brought from farther back, leached,
and added to the pile in front; and much of this has been hauled out
for fertilizer.
Near the main entrance is a large mass of breccia made up of small
angular limestone fragments cemented throughout with stalagmite
material; it projects several feet above the present level of the
earth floor, so the character of the cavern must have changed greatly
since this deposit was formed.
The only artificial object found was a fragment, about an inch across,
of dark, sand-tempered pottery.
Owing to the extensive changes resulting from collecting the
saltpeter, the cavern would not repay investigation.
* * *
DENT COUNTY
MAMMOTH CAVE
The statement has been made that a large dry cavern, known as the
"Mammoth Cave," is in a bluff facing Current River, opposite the mouth
of Ashley Creek. It could not be located; and residents in the
vicinity assert that not only is there no cave near this site, but
there is none known as "Mammoth" anywhere in the region. Some of them,
however, had a vague idea that a cavern bearing the same name exists
"away down toward Eminence; it may be on Jack's Fork."
GUTHOERL CAVE
There is a cave on the farm of Peter Guthoerl, 6 miles east of Salem.
It is small, with very little level space in front of it, and water
from the interior runs or seeps out of it, keeping the floor muddy
throughout the year.
SHORT BEND CAVE (4)
Short Bend post office is 12 miles northeast of Salem. Half a mile
east of it, in a bluff on the opposite side of the Meramec River, is a
cave with an entrance 25 feet wide and about the same in height; the
roof forming a fairly symmetrical Gothic arch. Were it not for the
pile of talus in front, water from the river would pour into the
cavern in extreme floods; these subside very rapidly, however, and
have never percolated through the barrier.
It is said that persons digging in a desultory way have unearthed
bones which were assumed to be those of Indians because they were
"red." No description of them could be obtained, and they may not have
been human bones at all.
The floor is level and dry for about 80 feet back from the entrance,
but no refuse of any kind appeared, except in the pile of talus
outside, which showed a small quantity of flint chips such as would be
left by hunting parties in repairing their weapons.
MONEY CAVE
This is a fourth of a mile down the river from Short Bend Cave. It
takes its name from the customary tradition that Indians concealed a
large treasure here; the legend being authenticated by an "Indian
chief" who told a white man that his people had buried much gold in a
cave in this bluff, built a fire over the money, then filled the mouth
of the cave with earth and rock. Some of the persons who opened many
small holes in searching for the hidden wealth claim to have found
ashes in this cave, behind the barrier, which is only ordinary talus.
The floor is of tough clay, fallen rocks, and stalagmite, all of
which, as well as the walls and ledges, were industriously dug and
hammered for months by the treasure seekers.
A cave with an entrance 15 feet wide, the same in height, and having a
depth of 45 feet in daylight, lies between Money Cave and Short Bend
Cave. In very wet seasons water runs through it from the interior; and
high water backs into it from the Meramec River.
SALTPETER CAVE
This is three-fourths of a mile north of Short Bend post office, on
the opposite side of the river. The arched entrance is 25 feet wide
and 20 feet high. Fifteen feet from the front the cave divides into
two branches about equal in size; they have never been explored to the
end. One branch continues straight back for about 100 feet, then turns
abruptly to the right for 50 or 60 feet, at which distance it resumes
its original direction. The other branch turns directly to the right
and is in daylight for 50 feet. Much of the cave earth has been hauled
away for fertilizer, or leached for obtaining saltpeter, so that only
a small quantity remains in front. Farther back, in both chambers, the
dry earth where not disturbed is 8 to 10 feet thick.
The cavern is easily accessible, close to the river, and otherwise
well adapted for habitation; but careful search failed to reveal any
indication that it had ever been thus used.
WATSON, TWIN, OR ONYX CAVES
The two caverns thus variously designated are on the Meramec River, 14
miles north of Salem. They are parallel to a depth of about 100 feet,
being separated by only 10 or 12 feet of solid wall. The floors of
both slope downward from front to rear, but not so rapidly as the
roof, so that at this distance the caves apparently come to an end.
But that they continue back into the hill is manifest from the
appearance of the roofs. In some manner the rear portion of each has
become entirely filled with earth. Probably they unite somewhere
beyond this point.
Either of these caves is of ample size to make an excellent shelter
for a large number of people; but they are difficult of access, and no
evidence whatever could be discovered indicating occupancy.
In fact, this part of the Meramec Valley does not seem to have ever
been permanently inhabited. Residents say that relics, even flint
implements, are seldom found in the bottom lands; and this fact was
commented on by persons who have learned how common such things are in
other localities. Small, rough hematite axes, however, occur in
considerable quantities throughout the region. The ore outcrops at
various places and solid nodules or fragments are plentiful. Chert
knives or spearheads are found scattered promiscuously; and, rarely,
an object made of other stone may be picked up. Very few specimens of
any description are symmetrical or carefully finished.
HOUSE MOUNDS (5)
On the Dent County infirmary farm, in Spring Creek Valley, a mile and
a half south of Salem, is a group of house mounds, about 50 in number.
They have not been much disturbed by cultivation; the creek and a
drainage ditch have cut through several of them, but, as usual, there
is nothing in the construction to show their purpose.
Two similar groups are on the Short Bend road, not far from Salem;
another group on Peter Guthoerl's farm 6 miles east of Salem; and a
fourth group, partly within the corporate limits of Salem, on the road
to Rolla.
* * *
PHELPS COUNTY
BATES CAVE
On the farm of J.W. Riden, 6 miles southeast of Big Piney post office,
is Bates Cave, of which every visitor to the region is speedily
informed. It is entered with difficulty by sliding feet first down the
inner slope of a pile of débris which fills the entrance almost to
the roof. Once beyond this, there is ample space. On the hillside,
above the mouth, is a vertical shaft, like a well, due to the widening
of a crevice; access to the interior of the cave may also be had
through this by means of a long rope. Under present conditions, it
would not be used except as a temporary shelter or hiding place; for
which purposes bushwhackers availed themselves of its advantages
during the Civil War.
This cavern is renowned far beyond its merits on account of its famous
"ballroom," where dances and picnics are held; artificial lights being
placed on the walls. Possibly the manner in which it must be entered
has something to do with its popularity.
ANOTHER "BATES CAVE"
Within a few rods of the cave above described is another, with an
entrance 60 feet wide and 10 feet high. Cave earth, which is 5 feet
thick above the bottom of a small stream coming from the interior,
extends back to large rocks covering the floor; beyond these are
rocks, wet clay, and gravel. The cave earth seems to run for some
distance under the receding walls. A milk house has been constructed
in it, so that excavations are not permitted.
RENAUD CAVE
Four miles east of Edgar Springs, facing Little Piney, is Renaud
(R[)e]n´n[=o]) Cave, on the farm of Charles E. Widener. The entrance
is 50 feet wide and 10 feet high. Dry cave earth extends back for 65
feet, then comes fallen rock for 100 feet or more. A little stream
runs close to the north wall. Cave earth is 5 feet deep on the bedrock
at the entrance and rises toward the interior. There is much refuse
within and also on the slope in front of the entrance.
MARSH CAVES
A shelter cave on Henry Marsh's farm, facing Little Piney, 2 miles
south of Yancy Mills, has a front 35 feet wide, 15 feet high, and runs
back 60 feet. There is a wet-weather stream bed through the center.
Bedrock shows at the entrance, rising toward the rear for a few feet,
then becoming covered with cave earth, which probably has a maximum
thickness of 2 feet. There is considerable refuse scattered about, but
it is doubtful whether the shallow deposit would repay investigation.
WILD-HOG CAVE
A fourth of a mile from the above cave is one known as "Wild-hog
Cave," because in pioneer days these animals gathered here for shelter
and protection. It is a small, tunnel-like affair, with a solid rock
floor, and extends farther into the hill than anyone has ever dared to
venture.
SHELTERS
Two small rock shelters near the Wild-hog Cave may have been resorted
to as temporary camping places.
PHELPS CAVE
A cave on the farm of James Phelps, 2 miles south of Yancy Mills, is
described as small, with a narrow entrance.
"KEY ROCKS"
Near Yancy Mills there is something known as "the Key Rocks." It can
not be found by a stranger and no guide was available at the time the
place was sought. It is described as a small, deep, circular hole in
solid rock, in which were many stone covers or lids, one above
another, gradually diminishing in size and "cut to fit down on each
other." It is probably due to stream erosion.
JONES CAVE
On Little Piney, half a mile south from Yancy Mills, is a large cave
on the Jones farm. It is said to have a large entrance and much earth
on the floor. As the owner uses it for a warehouse in which to store
fruits and vegetables and utilizes the stream flowing through it for
preserving milk and butter, no examination could be made.
YANCY MILLS CAVE
There is a small, shallow cave near the top of the bluff, half a mile
north of Yancy Mills. It contains no evidence of occupation, except
that walls and ceiling are blackened with smoke, due, probably, to
modern refugees or hunters.
LANE MOUND (7)
It was reported, too late to visit the site, that on George Lane's
farm, on Little Piney, a mile north of Yancy Mills, is a mound "8 feet
high, built of earth," and surrounded with the usual evidences of a
village site, scattered over the level bottom on which it stands.
CAIRNS ON LOST HILL, AT MOUTH OF GOURD CREEK (8)
Gourd Creek flows into the east side of Little Piney River 12 miles
southwest of Rolla. It is less than 4 miles long, and but for three or
four large springs near its source, which keep its volume fairly
uniform, would be dry most of the year.
Parallel with it, a short distance to the southward, is a ravine
several miles in length, known as Coal Pit Hollow. This originally
discharged its drainage into Little Piney about half a mile above the
mouth of Gourd Creek. A ravine tributary to the latter, near its
mouth, has worked back until it has captured the flow of Coal Pit. The
lower end of the stream bed thus abandoned now forms a gap or
depression with a slight incline from the center in both directions.
The crest of the deserted portion is about 50 to 60 feet above the
present level of Little Piney. The hill inclosed by this quadrilateral
drainage is about a fourth of a mile in length along its top, has a
direction almost north and south, with a nearly uniform slope along
the summit, the southern point being somewhat higher than that at the
north, and terminates abruptly at each end. The sides descend at once
from the center line of the ridge, like a roof with a slightly rounded
comb.
On account of its isolated position the eminence is locally known as
"Lost Hill." It is not to be confused, however, with several similar
formations in this region, to which the same term is applied and which
may owe their existence to a like cause, or may be due to cut-offs by
streams.
On the top of this particular Lost Hill are six cairns, five of them
near the northern end, the sixth just where the ridge breaks off to
the south. The margins are uncertain owing to the upper stones being
scattered by hunters as well as by credulous individuals who are
firmly fixed in the belief that all such "rock piles" contain gold
hidden by Indians.
So far as can now be determined the five at the northern end were 16
to 18 feet across as left by the builders, the southernmost one being
somewhat smaller. All are in uncleared land, and crevices between the
stones are filled with a tangled mass of roots from the trees and
bushes growing on and around them.
The relative positions are about thus, measurements being made on the
earth between the scattered stones: (1) 10 feet, (2) 10 feet, (3) 50
feet, (4) 10 feet, (5) 1,000 feet, (6). The distance from (5) to (6)
is estimated by stepping and may vary considerably either way from the
measure given.
Cairns (1), (2), and (3) were thoroughly excavated.
CAIRN (1)
This, the farthest north, was about 16 by 17 feet within the original
limits. When the outer loose rocks were removed there was disclosed a
wall of flat stones on the natural surface, so laid as to form an
inclosure apparently intended to be practically square. It measured,
across the center, from outside to outside, about 14 feet from north
to south by 12 feet from east to west. The north and south walls were
straight, the others outwardly curved. The approximate outline is
shown in figure 1. In most parts the wall was only one stone high; in
a few places there was another rock laid up. Over and within this wall
had been piled loose stones, ranging in size from small pebbles to
fragments of 150 pounds in weight, to form a heap whose original
height was about 2 feet.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Outline of Cairn (1), at Lost Hill, Phelps
County, Mo.]
When all these were cleared away the space within the wall was found
to measure 9 feet in each direction. Three feet from the middle of the
west wall was a fragment of a child's skull lying on the undisturbed
angular gravel which forms the natural surface on this ridge except
where a small amount of recently decayed humus may be held by rocks
and roots. Halfway between the center and the north wall was the top
of an adult skull, with three fragments of long bones. These, which
were much gnawed by rodents, were in black earth, evidently the former
home of some burrowing animal.
A foot north of the infant's skull were small remnants of an adult's
skull, probably belonging with the piece first found. There were also
some scraps of animal bones, much gnawed.
CAIRN (2)
This measured from 16 to 18 feet across to the outer edge of the loose
stones, and about 30 inches high. Under the top rocks was a rough wall
similar to that in Cairn (1), but all the sides were nearly straight.
The outline is given in figure 2. The outside measurements, across the
center, were 15 feet each way. There were more stones in this wall
than in the first; mostly there were two, and in some places three,
superposed.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Outline of Cairn (2), at Lost Hill, Phelps
County, Mo.]
Extending from north to south across the middle of the vault was a row
of large slabs standing on edge with their tops leaning toward the
east. Their inclination varied from nearly horizontal to nearly
vertical; so it would appear that they were not placed thus
intentionally but had settled irregularly. Probably they had formed
the covering of a pen or vault, of poles or timbers, in which a body
had been placed.
Close to these inclined slabs, near the north wall of the vault, was
the effigy pipe shown in figure 3. It is made of a fine-grained
sandstone and seems intended to represent a buzzard with an
exaggerated tail, though the beak is more like that of a crow. This
specimen lay between two flat rocks which were separated by a little
earth and gravel, but there were no traces of bone with it or near it.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Pipe from Cairn (2).]
At a slightly lower level than the pipe were several flat stones
standing at various angles. When these were removed there were found
fragmentary remains of at least three adults, lying in confusion, as
if only the folded dismembered skeletons had been placed here. They
lay on a floor of slabs which, in turn, rested upon undisturbed
gravel.
The facts observed are difficult to interpret, as the original order
was so broken up; but it would seem that as a preliminary to the
burial of bodies or skeletons, the superficial earth had been scraped
away and a rough stone floor laid, on which the bundled or folded
remains were placed and at least partially covered with earth and
gravel. Other flat rocks were then laid over them, either directly on
the earth or more probably supported by poles placed across, whose
decay had allowed them to fall into the confusion in which they were
found.
A small flint knife was among the remains.
The pipe, being at a little distance from these bones, would suggest
another interment; but as no trace of such remained it may have been
placed as an afterthought or a separate deposit.
From these skeletons row after row of the slanting rocks continued to
the inner side of the eastern wall. Two feet east of the pipe was a
skull on its right side, the back against a small flat rock. It was
crushed flat, and only a small part of it remained. Possibly it had
turned after burial, as fragments of other bones were found here and
there toward the south from it, indicating an extended burial. The
teeth were hard, solid, and much worn. The bones found were more or
less gnawed, and among them were scraps, probably of food animals,
burned into charcoal. No bones found could be saved, as they were very
soft.
CAIRN (3)
This was similar in construction to (1) and (2), as is shown in figure
4. The wall, along the outside, measured 14 feet on the south, 13 feet
on the north, 15 feet on the west, and 14 feet on the east. The
inclosed space was 10 feet across each way. Some one had dug out much
of the south end; the northern end was undisturbed.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Outline of Cairn (3), Lost Hill.]
The prior excavation had barely missed, near the west wall, a few
fragments of an adult skull and three teeth. About even with the
middle point of the west wall, 2 feet from it, was evidence of the
burial of an adult--pieces of bone and skull, and some teeth. North of
these, near the northwest corner, were fragments of two adult skulls,
with one of which were some beads made of shells of water snails; 18
of these were recovered, all more or less decayed. Between these two
skulls were parts of a child's skull, the teeth not yet through the
bone.
Inclined flat stones in the eastern half of the grave, the tops
leaning eastward, denoted other burials; but nothing was found under
them, although small flat stones laid on the original surface
indicated the bottom of a grave.
Evidently several burials, of which all traces have disappeared, were
made in this vault.
Owing to the practical identity of these three graves, the poor
returns, and the difficulty of working in a tangled mass of tough
roots without displacing the stones so greatly that their proper
position became a perplexing question, the remaining three were not
excavated.