IN THE ENEMY'S COUNTRY.
The morning of August 5th broke clear, however, and the day was one of
the few without rain that the Troopers enjoyed while in Puerto Rico. A
fine breeze was blowing, and the cavalrymen's ideas of the country began
to take on a roseate hue. Everywhere their eyes met deep green tropical
foliage and the cute little yellow houses without windows; strange old
churches and curious natives made the entire scene appear more like a
theatrical setting than a reality.
In the morning before five o'clock the blaring of trumpets announced a
hurry call. As soon as the men came to their senses they heard the
non-commissioned officers shouting: "Fall in without arms." The Troop
never appeared to better advantage. The guard, the fourth platoon,
tumbled out fully armed, and were standing in place in two minutes, and
one minute later the entire Troop, in column of fours, with the captain
in command, was double-quicking toward the dock. When the men got there,
ten or fifteen minutes ahead of anyone else except the regulars, who
arrived shortly after the Troop, they found that a lighter loaded with
five thousand rifles for the infantry was sinking close to shore.
No example of the discipline, which always prevails in the City Troop,
could be more striking than the one then witnessed by a score of other
commands, which came rushing, all disorganized, to the scene. While the
men in other companies were hesitating and wondering what to do, the
City Troop broke into regular squads, under the command of the
non-commissioned officers, and began methodical relief work. Every rifle
was saved. Regular army officers on the spot warmly complimented Captain
Groome upon the showing made by his men.
That afternoon Captain Groome, with Major Flagler and Major McMichael,
of General Wilson's staff, rode out from Ponce into the country looking
for a suitable camp site. The heat was intense, the dust thick, and a
place which would fulfill all requirements was not easily found. The
officers kept at it, however, until satisfied; although they were in a
state of complete exhaustion upon their return. Indeed, all the men's
faces for the first few days in Puerto Rico showed plainly the
enervating influence of the climate, to which they could not easily get
accustomed. Their tasks done, the Troopers would throw themselves down
upon bales of hay, piles of boards or even the pavements, too weary to
care where they were or how they looked. Men famed for their strength
and endurance at home, would sit by the hour with their heads in their
hands, rendered listless and weak by the heat and moisture.
That night again the men spread their blankets on the stones outside the
cathedral. A citizen placed his front porch at the disposal of the Troop
as a guard house. This furnished protection for the sentries on duty
from the heavy showers which invariably occurred about midnight.
On Saturday morning more horses were unloaded, and in the afternoon all
the men who had mounts rode out beyond Ponce, on the highway which leads
to Barros, to the camp selected by Captain Groome. While riding along
the Troopers excited great interest among the natives because of the
size of the American horses. In Puerto Rico all the horses are small,
mere ponies in fact, less than fourteen hands high, and the islanders
never failed to stare with open mouth at the City Troops handsome greys.
The size of the Troopers themselves also caused many expressions of
amazement, and as some of the broad-shouldered men in the second and
third platoons passed, the spectators would make admiring signs with
their hands, indicating the men's height and breadth.
The first trial of the horses proved that the sea voyage had done them
good in one respect. Many were suffering from distemper when they left
Newport News, but there was not a case noticed after the animals landed.
They were thin, stiff and sore, however, so that they were led over most
of the six miles leading to the new camp.
Those Troopers still without horses remained aboard the "Massachusetts"
unloading the seemingly endless string of horses and mules, and their
energetic efforts were crowned with success late Saturday night, when
the last of the animals were landed. Sunday morning was cool, but
cloudy--and as the last detail of City Troopers were packing and
saddling their horses, they heard the voice of a priest conducting early
mass in the tiny cathedral close by. The cavalrymen walked with their
horses' bridles over their arms. As they passed through Ponce they
encountered many scowling faces, but once in the country a majority of
the natives shouted a welcome. By noon they reached the spot chosen for
a camp; the Troopers were together again in a magnificent bit of
country, blue mountains everywhere, and brilliant, luxurious foliage on
all sides. "Hazel" manifested a striking fondness for all things Puerto
Rican, and had to be tied in a rather barren spot to prevent
overfeeding.
Reveille sounded at four o'clock Monday morning, and the packing of
saddles began at once. At seven o'clock the order came to join with H
Troop as escort to a train of one thousand mules, headquarter horses,
signal and ambulance corps, and as quickly as possible to join General
Brooke's command at Guayama. Mounted for the first time, off the Troop
went, retracing its steps through a glorious stretch of country to
Ponce, where on the main southern road the long supply train for General
Brooke's army was overtaken. Thus hampered, the march became slow. It
was terrifically hot, and the dust blew about in clouds. At one o'clock
the cavalrymen passed through Santa Isabella, where a half hours stop
was made to bring up the stragglers of the mule train, and to take a
turn at the hard tack and dried beef.
Then the march began through the enemy's country, the City Troop acting
as advance guard, and H Troop, of the Sixth Regular Cavalry, acting as
rear guard. Flankers were sent out, and the advance guard was frequently
informed by natives that quite a large number of Spaniards were
retreating a short distance ahead. The City Troopers came upon many
signs of the enemy's presence along the road, and at four o'clock the
Troops went into camp at the Hacienda Fortuna, a rich sugar plantation.
An outpost of City Troopers was immediately established, and all barns
and outbuildings were thoroughly searched before night.
Just before midnight a hurry call sent six City Troopers and six H
Troopers, under Captain Groome and Lieutenant Ryan, scouring a
neighboring cane brake for Spaniards, spies having reported their
presence there in force. No lurking Dons were found, however, and at
four o'clock the next morning camp was broken and the march resumed in
dead earnest. The City Troopers acted as rear guard to the train. No
American troops had passed through this part of the island before, and
as it was said to be a Spanish stronghold, great watchfulness was
observed. On both sides of the ragged road were cane breaks and great
growths of underbrush, and it was a tiresome ride and no small task
looking out for Spaniards, stubborn mules and foolish drivers.
Late that afternoon a camp was reached at the foot of the Caney
mountains, on the Hacienda Magdelane, an English estate. There the two
cavalry troops and the tremendous mule train went into camp again.
They had passed through Selinas in the early afternoon.
[Illustration: CAMP AT ARROYO.]
In the blackness of Wednesday morning the roll was called at 3.30, and
an hour later saw the march resumed, with the City Troopers acting as
advance guard. Lieutenant McFadden commanded the advance guard and
Corporal Merrill commanded the point. Reports of native spies left no
doubt as to the serious character of the situation, and the march was of
necessity slow. Every two or three miles the sight of small bands of
armed Spaniards would cause a halt, while out the skirmishers would go
to report.
About nine o'clock the point came to a twelve-foot bridge, freshly torn
up. This was quickly replaced and on the column moved. About 10.30 a few
shots were heard, which fact was at once reported to Captain Groome, who
gave orders for the Troop to advance at a gallop. In a few minutes the
point came in sight, talking with armed men, and like a flash the word
came back through the chain of advance supports that the Troop had at
last reached General Brooke's outposts, the Fourth Illinois.
Orders were given Captain Groome to proceed through Guayama, toward
Arroyo, one mile from which place the Troop went into camp. A few hours
later H Troop came up and camped alongside.
Thursday, August 11th, was a day of wild rumors. All sorts of movements
were about to take place, according to report, and a majority of the
plans had some Trooper, who believed in them. From the Philadelphia
men's camp a Spanish blockhouse could be seen on the mountains two miles
away. Several batteries, encamped near the Troop, wheeled into position
in the morning and indulged in target practice. Many of the Troopers
witnessed this stirring sight, and returned to camp with the
announcement that the practice was superb. The daily rain was unusually
heavy, and the men turned in early to fight the bugs, mosquitoes and
stifling heat.
All conditions were unfavorable to comfort at Arroyo. Great clouds would
come drifting in from the sea toward the mountains, and rain and wind
would beat in at one side of the Troop's shelter tents. Within an hour
the clouds would come rolling back to the sea, and the wind and rain
would besiege the opposite side of the tents. Thursday night the
Troopers slept in soaking blankets, inches deep in rain and mud. Nothing
but good-natured chaffing over the discomforts was heard however.
Friday afternoon the Troopers went in a body to the beach, about a mile
away, and took a dip in the Caribbean Sea. Rumors of an engagement close
at hand kept growing in force, and when a careful inspection of carbines
took place upon their return from bathing, the Troopers were fully
prepared for the orders which came to them at retreat that evening, to
be ready to move in heavy marching order at 5.30 in the morning. This
was formal notice that a battle would take place on the morrow, and
members of the City and H Troops offered mutual congratulations.