Trip from Chihuahua to Aguascalientes, in 1835 -- Southern Trade
and _Ferias_ -- Hacienda de la Zarca, and its innumerable Stock
-- Rio Nazas, and Lakes without outlet -- Perennial Cotton --
Exactions for Water and Pasturage -- Village of Churches -- City
of Durango and its Peculiarities -- Persecution of Scorpions
-- Negro-ship in the ascendant -- Robbers and their _modus_
_operandi_ -- City of Aguascalientes -- Bathing Scene -- Haste to
return to the North -- Mexican Mule-shoeing -- Difficulties and
Perplexities -- A Friend in time of need -- Reach Zacatecas -- City
Accommodations -- Hotels unfashionable -- _Locale_, Fortifications,
etc. of the City of Zacatecas -- Siege by Santa Anna and his
easy-won Victory -- At Durango again -- Civil Warfare among the
'Sovereigns' -- Hairbreadth 'scapes -- Troubles of the Road -- Safe
Arrival at Chihuahua -- Character of the Southern Country.
The patient reader who may have accompanied me thus far, without
murmuring at the dryness of some of the details, will perhaps pardon
me for presenting here a brief account of a trip which I made to
_Aguascalientes_, in the interior of Northern Mexico, in the year
1835, and which the arrangement I have adopted has prevented me from
introducing before, in its chronological order.
The trade of the South constitutes a very important branch of the
commerce of the country, in which foreigners, as well as natives, {85}
are constantly embarking. It is customary for most of those who
maintain mercantile establishments in Chihuahua, to procure
assortments of Mexican fabrics from the manufactories of Leon,
Aguascalientes, and other places of the same character in the more
southern districts of the republic. At certain seasons of the year,
here are held regular _ferias_, at which the people assemble in great
numbers, as well of sellers as of purchasers. There are some eight or
ten of these annual fairs held in the republic, each of which usually
lasts a week or more. It was about as much, however, from a desire to
behold the sunny districts of the South, as for commercial purposes,
that I undertook this expedition in 1835; and as my engagements have
not permitted me to revisit this section since, the few [Pg163] notes
of interest I was then able to collect, seem to come more
appropriately in this part of my work than in any other place that I
could readily select.
I set out from Chihuahua on the 26th of February, 1835. My party
consisted of four men (including myself) and two empty wagons--not a
very formidable escort to protect our persons as well as specie and
bullion (the only transmissible currency of the country) against the
bands of robbers which at all times infest that portion of our route
that lay south of Durango. From Chihuahua to that city the road was
rendered still more perilous by the constant hostilities of the
Indians. On the 7th of March, however, we arrived, without {86}
accident, at the town of Cerro Gordo, the northernmost settlement in
the department of Durango; and the following day we reached La Zarca,
which is the principal village of one of the most extensive haciendas
in the North. So immense is the amount of cattle on this estate, that,
as it was rumored, the proprietor once offered to sell the whole
hacienda, stock, etc., for the consideration alone of fifty cents for
each head of cattle found on the estate; but that no person has ever
yet been able or willing to muster sufficient capital to take up the
offer. It is very likely, however, that if such a proposition was ever
made, the proprietor intended to include all his stock of rats and
mice, reptiles and insects--in short, every genus of 'small cattle' on
his premises. This estate covers a territory of perhaps a hundred
miles in length, which comprises several flourishing villages.
In two days more, we reached Rio Nazas, a beautiful little river that
empties itself into Lake Cayman.[114] Rio [Pg164] Nazas has been
celebrated for the growth of cotton, which, owing to the mildness of
the climate, is sometimes planted fresh only every three or four
years. The light frosts of winter seldom destroy more than the upper
portion of the stalk, so that {87} the root is almost perennial. About
twenty-five miles further, we stopped at the mining village of La
Noria, where we were obliged to purchase water for our mules--a novel
expense to the American traveller, but scarcely to be complained of,
inasmuch as the water had to be drawn from wells with a great deal of
labor. It is not unusual, also, for the proprietors of haciendas to
demand remuneration for the pasturage on the open plains, consumed by
the animals of travellers--a species of exaction which one never hears
of further north.
Our next stopping-place was Cuencamé, which may well be called the
Village of Churches: for, although possessing a very small population,
there are five or six edifices of this description.[115] As I had
business to transact at Durango, which is situated forty or fifty
miles westward of the main Southern road, I now pursued a direct route
for that city, where I arrived on the 16th of March.
Durango is one of the handsomest cities in the North, with a
population of about 20,000. It is situated in a level plain,
surrounded in every direction by low mountains. It presents two or
three handsome squares, with many fine edifices and some really
splendid churches. The town is supplied with water for irrigating the
gardens, and for many other ordinary purposes, by several open
aqueducts, which lead through the streets, from a large spring, a mile
or {88} two distant; but as these are kept filthy by the offal that is
thrown into them, the inhabitants who are able to buy it, procure most
of their [Pg165] water for drinking and culinary purposes, from the
_aguadores_, who pack it, on asses, usually in large jars, from the
spring.
This is the first Northern city in which there is to be found any
evidence of that variety of tropical fruits, for which Southern Mexico
is so justly famed. Although it was rather out of season, yet the
market actually teemed with all that is most rich and exquisite in
this kind of produce. The _maguey_, from which is extracted the
popular beverage called _pulque_,[116] is not only cultivated
extensively in the fields, but grows wild everywhere upon the plains.
This being the height of the pulque season, a hundred shanties might
be seen loaded with jugs and goblets filled with this favorite liquor,
from its sweetest unfermented state to the grade of 'hard cider;'
while the incessant cries of "Pulque! pulque dulce! pulque bueno!"
added to the shrill and discordant notes of the fruit venders, created
a confusion of {89} sounds amidst which it was impossible to hear
oneself talk.
Durango is also celebrated as being the head-quarters, as it were, of
the whole scorpion family. During the spring, especially, so much are
the houses infested by these poisonous insects, that many people are
obliged to have resort to a kind of mosquito-bar, in order to keep
them out of their beds at night. As an expedient to deliver the city
from this terrible pest, a society has actually been formed, which
pays a reward of a _cuartilla_ (three cents) for every _alacran_ (or
scorpion) that is brought to them. Stimulated by the [Pg166] desire
of gain, the idle boys of the city are always on the look-out: so
that, in the course of a year, immense numbers of this public enemy
are captured and slaughtered. The body of this insect is of the bulk
and cast of a medium spider, with a jointed tail one to two inches
long, at the end of which is a sting whose wounds are so poisonous as
often to prove fatal to children, and are very painful to adults.
The most extraordinary peculiarity of these scorpions is, that they
are far less dangerous in the North than in the South, which in some
manner accounts for the story told Capt. Pike, that even those of
Durango lose most of their venom as soon as they are removed a few
miles from the city.[117]
Although we were exceedingly well armed, yet so many fearful stories
of robberies said to be committed, almost daily, on the Southern
roads, reached my ears, that before {90} leaving Durango, I resolved
to add to my 'weapons of defence' one of those peculiarly terrible
dogs which are sometimes to be found in this country, and which are
very serviceable to travellers situated as I was. Having made my
wishes known to a free negro from the United States, named George, he
recommended me to a custom-house officer, and a very particular friend
of his, as being possessed of the very article I was in search of. I
accordingly called at the house of that functionary, in company with
my sable informant, and we were ushered into a handsome parlor, where
two or three well-dressed señoritas sat discussing some of the
fruitful topics of the day. One of them--the officer's wife, as it
appeared, and a very comely dame she was--rose immediately, and, with
a great deal of ceremonious deference, saluted _Señor Don Jorge_,
inviting him at the same time to a [Pg167] seat, while I was left to
remain perfectly unnoticed in my standing position. George appeared
considerably embarrassed, for he had not quite forgotten the customs
and manners of his native country, and was even yet in the habit of
treating Americans not only with respect but with humility. He
therefore declined the tendered distinction, and remarked that '_el
señor_' had only come to purchase their dog. Upon this, the lady
pointed to a kennel in a corner, when the very first glimpse of the
ferocious animal convinced me that he was precisely the sort of a
customer I wanted for a companion. Having therefore paid {91} down six
dollars, the stipulated sum of purchase, I bowed myself out of the
presence of the ladies, not a little impressed with my own
insignificance, in the eyes of these fair _doñas_, contrasted with the
grandeur of my sable companion. But the popularity of negroes in
Northern Mexico has ceased to be a matter of surprise to the
traveller.
With regard to _Don Jorge_, if I was surprised at the marks of
attention paid him by a white lady, I had cause to be much more
astonished shortly after. As the sooty don was lounging about my
wagons, a clever-visaged youth approached and placed in his hands a
satin stock, with the compliments of his sister (the officer's wife),
hoping that he would accept that trifle, wrought by her own hand, as a
token of her particular regard! But, notwithstanding these marks of
distinction (to apply no harsher epithet), George was exceedingly
anxious to engage in my employ, in whatsoever capacity I might choose
to take him; for he had discovered that such honors were far from
affording him a livelihood: yet I did not then need his services, and
have never heard of him since.
On the 22d we left Durango, and after a few days' march found
ourselves once more in the _camino real_ that led from Chihuahua to
Zacatecas. All the frightful stories I had [Pg168] heard about
robbers now began to flash upon my memory, which made me regard every
man I encountered on the road with a very suspicious eye. As all
travellers go armed, it {92} is impossible to distinguish them from
banditti;[118] so that the unsuspecting traveller is very frequently
set upon by the very man he had been consorting with in apparent
good-fellowship, and either murdered on the spot, or dragged from his
horse with the lazo, and plundered of all that is valuable about him.
I have heard it asserted that there is a regular bandit trade
organized throughout the country, in which some of the principal
officers of state (and particularly of the judicial corps) are not
unfrequently engaged. A capital is made up by shares, as for any other
enterprise, bandits are fitted out and instructed where to operate,
and at stated periods of the year a regular dividend is paid to the
stockholders. The impunity which these 'gentlemen of the order' almost
everywhere enjoy in the country, is therefore not to be marvelled at.
In Durango, during my sojourn there, a well dressed caballero was
frequently in the habit of entering our _meson_, whom mine host soon
pointed out to me as a notorious brigand. "Beware of him," said the
honest publican; "he is prying into your affairs"--and so it turned
out; for my muleteer informed me that the fellow had been trying to
pump from him all the particulars in regard to our condition and
destination. Yet this worthy was not only suffered to prowl about
unmolested {93} by the authorities, but appeared to be on familiar
terms with many of the principal dignitaries of the city.
Notwithstanding all our apprehensions, however, we arrived at our
place of destination without even the novelty of an incident to swell
our budget of gossip. [Pg169]
The city of Aguascalientes is beautifully situated in a level
plain, and would appear to contain about twenty thousand inhabitants,
who are principally engaged in the manufacture of _rebozos_ and other
textures mostly of cotton.[119] As soon as I found myself sufficiently
at leisure, I visited the famous warm spring (_ojo caliente_) in the
suburbs, from which the city derives its euphonious name. I followed
up the _acequia_ that led from the spring--a ditch four or five feet
wide, through which flowed a stream three or four feet in depth. The
water was precisely of that agreeable temperature to afford the luxury
of a good bath, which I had hoped to enjoy; but every few paces I
found men, women, and children, submerged in the acequia; and when I
arrived at the basin, it was so choked up with girls and full-grown
women, who were paddling about with all the nonchalance of a gang of
ducks, that I was forced to relinquish my long-promised treat.
It had been originally my intention to continue on to Leon, another
manufacturing town some seventy or eighty miles from Aguascalientes;
but, hearing that Santa Anna had just arrived there with a large army,
on his way to Zacatecas to quell an insurrection,[120] I {94} felt
very little curiosity to extend my rambles further. Having, therefore,
made all my purchases in the shortest possible time, in a few days I
was again in readiness to start for the North.
That my mules might be in condition for the hard travel before me, it
was necessary to have them shod: a precaution, however, which is
seldom used in the north of Mexico, either [Pg170] with mules or
horses. Owing a little to the peculiar breed, but more still no doubt
to the dryness of the climate, Mexican animals have unusually hard
hoofs. Many will travel for weeks, and even months, over the firm[121]
and often rocky roads of the interior (the pack-mules carrying their
huge loads), without any protection whatever to the feet, save that
which nature has provided. But most of mine being a little
tender-footed, I engaged Mexican _herreros_ to fit them out in their
own peculiar style. Like almost everything else of their
manufacturing, their mule-shoes are of a rather primitive model--broad
thin plates, tacked on with large club-headed nails. But the
expertness of the shoers compensated in some degree for the defects of
the _herraduras_. It made but little odds how wild and vicious the
mule--an assistant would draw up his foot in an instant, and soon
place him _hors de combat_; and then fixing a nail, the shoer {95}
would drive it to the head at a single stroke, standing usually at
full arm's length, while the assistant held the foot. Thus in less
than half the time I had ever witnessed the execution of a similar job
before, they had completely shod more than twenty of the most unruly
brutes--without once resorting to the expedient so usual in such
cases, of throwing the animals upon the ground.
Just as the process of shoeing my mules had been completed, a person
who proved to be a public officer entered the _corral_, and pointing
to the mules, very politely informed me that they were wanted by the
government to transport troops to Zacatecas. "They will be called for
to-morrow afternoon," he continued; "let them not be removed!" I had
of course to bow acquiescence to this imperative edict, well knowing
that all remonstrance would be vain; yet fully [Pg171] determined to
be a considerable distance on the road northward before that 'morrow'
should be very far advanced.
But a new difficulty now presented itself. I must procure a _guia_ or
passport for my cargo of merchandise, with a _responsible
endorser_,--an additional imposition I was wholly unprepared for, as I
was then ignorant of any law to that effect being in force, and had
not a single acquaintance in the city. I was utterly at a loss what to
do: under any other circumstances I might have left the amount of the
_derecho de consumo_ in deposit, as others have been obliged to do on
similar occasions; but {96} unfortunately I had laid out the last
dollar of my available means.
As I left the custom-house brooding over these perplexities, one of
the principal clerks of the establishment slipped a piece of paper
into my hand containing the following laconic notice:--"_Aguárdeme
afuera_" (wait for me without);--an injunction I passively obeyed,
although I had not the least idea of its purport. The clerk was soon
with me, and remarked, "You are a stranger in the city, and ignorant
of our severe revenue laws: meet me in an hour from this at my
lodgings, and we will devise some remedy for your difficulties." It
may be well supposed that I did not fail to be punctual. I met the
obliging officer in his room with a handful of blank custom-house
_pases_. It should be understood that a _pase_ only differs from a
_guia_ in requiring no endorser, but the former can only be extended
for amounts of goods not exceeding fifty dollars. Taking my bill, he
very soon filled me up a _pase_ for every package, directing each to a
different point in the North. "Now," observed my amiable friend, "if
you are disposed to do a little smuggling, these will secure your
safety, if you avoid the principal cities, till you reach the borders
of Chihuahua: if not, you may have a friend on the way who will
endorse your _guia_." I preferred the latter alternative. I had formed
an acquaintance [Pg172] with a worthy German merchant in Durango,
who, I felt convinced, would generously lend his signature to the
required document.
{97} As the revenue officers of Northern Mexico are not celebrated for
liberality and disinterestedness, I took it for granted that my friend
of the custom-house was actuated by selfish motives, and therefore
proffered him a remuneration for the trouble he had taken on my
account; but to my surprise, he positively refused accepting anything,
observing that he held it the duty of every honest man to assist his
fellow creatures in case of difficulty. It is truly a pleasant task to
bear record of such instances of disinterestedness, in the midst of so
many contaminating influences.
While speaking of _guias_, I may as well remark that they are also
frequently required for specie and always for bullion. This is often
very annoying to the traveller, not only because it is sometimes
inconvenient to find an endorser, but because the robbers are thus
enabled to obtain precise and timely information of the funds and
route of every traveller; for they generally have their agents in all
the principal cities, who are apt to collude with some of the
custom-house clerks, and thus procure regular reports of the
departures, with the amounts of valuables conveyed.
I was not long in taking leave of Aguascalientes, and heard nothing
more of the impressment of my mules. It was not my good fortune,
however, to remain for any length of time out of trouble. Being
anxious to take the city of Zacatecas in my route without jeopardizing
my goods, I took passage by the _diligencia_, while my wagons
continued on in {98} the _camino real_ or main road. On my arrival at
Zacatecas, I very soon discovered that by leaving 'my bed and board'
behind with the wagons, I had doomed myself to no small inconvenience
and privation. It was with the greatest difficulty I could obtain a
place to lie upon, and [Pg173] clean victuals with which to allay my
hunger. I could get a room, it is true, even for a _real_ per day, in
one of those great barn-like _mesones_ which are to be met with in all
these cities, but not one of them was at all furnished. There is
sometimes, in a corner, a raised platform of mud, much resembling a
common blacksmith's hearth, which is to supply the place of a
bedstead, upon which the traveller may spread his blankets, if he
happen to have any. On this occasion I succeeded in borrowing one or
two of the stage-driver who was a Yankee, and so made out 'pretty
comfortably' in the sleeping way. These _mesones_ are equally
ill-prepared to furnish food for the traveller, unless he is willing
to put up with a dish of _frijoles_ and _chile guisado_ with
_tortillas_, all served up in the most filthy manner. I therefore
sought out a public _fonda_ kept by an Italian, where I procured an
excellent supper. Fondas, however, are mere _restaurants_, and
consequently without accommodations for lodging.
Strange as the fact may appear, one may travel fifteen hundred miles,
and perhaps more, on the main public highway through Northern Mexico,
without finding a single tavern with general accommodations. This,
however, may {99} be accounted for, by taking into consideration the
peculiar mode of travelling of the country, which renders resorts of
this kind almost unnecessary. _Arrieros_ with their _atajos_ of
pack-mules always camp out, being provided with their cooks and stock
of provisions, which they carry with them. Ordinary travellers
generally unite in little caravans, for security against robbers and
marauders; and no caballero ever stirs abroad without a train of
servants, and a pack-mule to carry his _cantinas_ (a pair of large
wallets or leathern boxes), filled with provisions, on the top of
which is lashed a huge machine containing a mattress and all the other
'fixings' for bed furniture. Thus equipped, the [Pg174] caballero
snaps his fingers at all the _hotels garnis_ of the universe, and is
perfectly independent in every movement.
The city of Zacatecas, as my readers are doubtless aware, is
celebrated for its mining interests. Like all other Mexican towns of
the same class, it originated in small, insignificant settlements on
the hillsides, in the immediate vicinity of the mines, until it
gradually grew up to be a large and wealthy city, with a population of
some 30,000 inhabitants. Its locale is a deep ravine formed among
rugged mountain ridges; and as the houses are mostly built in rows,
overtopping one another, along the hillsides, some portions of the
city present all the appearance of a vast amphitheatre. Many of the
streets are handsomely paved, and two of the squares are finely
ornamented with curiously carved _jets-d'eau_, {100} which are
supplied with water raised by mule power, from wells among the
adjacent hills. From these the city is chiefly furnished with water.
I have already mentioned, that General Santa Anna was at this time
marching against Zacatecas with a large force. It may be remembered
that after the General's accession to the supreme authority of Mexico
(upon the establishment of _Centralismo_), he deemed it expedient to
issue a decree abolishing the state militia, known as _Cívicos_, as
being dangerous to the liberties of----the _dictador_. Zacatecas, so
far from obeying this despotic mandate, publicly called on the Cívicos
to defend their rights, and Santa Anna was now descending upon them
with an army double that which the city could raise, to enforce their
obedience. The _Zacatecanos_, however, were not idle. The militia was
pouring in from the surrounding villages, and a degree of enthusiasm
prevailed throughout the city, which seemed to be the presage of a
successful defence. In fact, the city itself, besides being from its
location almost impregnable, was completely protected by artificial
fortifications. The only accessible point [Pg175] was by the main
road, which led from the south immediately up the narrow valley of the
ravine. Across this a strong wall had been erected some years before,
and the road passed through a large gate, commanded by a bastion upon
the hillside above, whence a hundred men well supplied with arms and
ammunition, might easily cut {101} off thousands upon thousands, as
fast as they advanced. The city was therefore deemed impregnable, and
being supplied with provisions for a lengthy siege, the patriots were
in high spirits. A foreign engineer or two had been engaged to
superintend the fortifications.
Santa Anna reached Zacatecas a few days after my departure. As he had
no idea of testing the doubtful mettle of his army, by an attempt to
storm the place, which presented so formidable an appearance, he very
quietly squatted himself down at the village of Guadalupe, three miles
below. From this point he commenced his operations by throwing
'missiles' into the city--not of lead, or cast-iron, or any such cruel
agents of warfare, but _bombs of paper_, which fell among the
besieged, and burst with gentle overtures to their commanding
officers. This novel 'artillery' of the dictator produced a perfectly
electric effect; for the valor of the commandant of the Cívicos rose
to such a pitch, that he at once marched his forces out of the
fortifications, to attack the besiegers in the open field--face to
face, as true bravery required. But on the very first onset, this
valiant officer, by some mysterious agency which could not be
accounted for, was suddenly seized with a strange panic, and, with all
his forces, made a precipitate retreat, fleeing helter-skelter, as if
all the engines of destruction that were ever invented, had been
brought to bear upon them; when the victorious army of Santa Anna
marched into the city without further opposition.
{102} This affair is a pretty just sample of most of the [Pg176]
successful battles of this 'great general.' The treacherous collusion
of the principal Zacatecas officers was so apparent, that they deemed
it prudent to fly the city for safety, lest the wrath of their
incensed fellow-citizens should explode upon them. Meanwhile the
soldiery amused themselves by sacking the city, and by perpetrating
every species of outrage that their mercenary and licentious appetites
could devise. Their savage propensities were particularly exercised
against the few foreigners that were found in the place.
Meanwhile I was journeying very leisurely towards Durango, where I
arrived on the 21st of April. As the main wagon road to the north does
not pass through that city, it was most convenient and still more
prudent for me to leave my wagons at a distance: their entrance would
have occasioned the confiscation of my goods, for the want of the
'necessary documents,' as already alluded to. But I now procured a
_guia_ without further difficulty; which was indeed a principal object
of my present visit to that city.
Before leaving Durango I witnessed one of those civil broils which are
so common in Mexico. I was not even aware that any difficulty had been
brewing, till I was waked on the morning of the 25th by a report of
fire-arms. Stepping out to ascertain what was the matter, I perceived
the _azotea_ of the parochial church occupied by armed men, who seemed
to be employed in amusing themselves {103} by discharging their guns
at random upon the people in the streets. These _bravos_, as I was
afterwards informed, belonged to the bishop's party, or that of the
_Escoceses_, which was openly at war with the liberalists,
anti-hierarchists, or _Yorkinos_, and were resorting to this summary
mode of proceeding, in order to bring about a change of affairs; for
at this time the liberal party had the ascendency in the civil
government of Durango. [Pg177]
Being somewhat curious to have a nearer view of what was going on, I
walked down past the church, towards a crowd which was assembled in a
_plaza_ beyond. This movement on my part was rather inconsiderate: for
foreigners were in extremely bad odor with the belligerents; nor had I
mingled with the multitude many minutes, before a sober-looking
citizen plucked me by the sleeve, and advised me, if I valued my two
ears, and did not wish to have my career of usefulness cut short
prematurely, to stay within doors. Of course I needed no further
persuasion, and returned at once to my lodgings, where I made
immediate preparations for a speedy departure. As I was proceeding
through the streets soon afterward, with a cargo of goods, I received,
just after leaving the custom-house, a very warm salutation from the
belligerents, which made the dust start from almost under my very
feet. The _cargadores_ who were carrying my packages were no doubt as
much frightened as myself. They supposed the reason of their shooting
at us to be because {104} they imagined we were carrying off the
_parque_ (ammunition) of the government, which was deposited in the
building we had just left.
We were soon under way, and very little regret did I feel when I
fairly lost sight of the city of scorpions. But I was not yet wholly
beyond the pale of difficulties. Owing to the fame of the Indian
hostilities in the North, it was almost impossible to procure the
services of Mexican muleteers for the expedition. One I engaged, took
the first convenient opportunity to escape at night, carrying away a
gun with which I had armed him; yet I felt grateful that he did not
also take a mule, as he had the whole _caballada_ under his exclusive
charge: and soon after, a Mexican wagoner was frightened back by the
reports of savages.
After a succession of such difficulties, and still greater [Pg178]
risks from the Indians that infested the route, I was of course
delighted when I reached Chihuahua, on the 14th of May, in perfect
safety.[122]
FOOTNOTES:
[114] The numerous little lakes throughout the interior of Mexico,
without outlets yet into which rivers are continually flowing, present
a phenomenon which seem, quite singular to the inhabitants of our
humid climates. But the wastage in the sand, and still greater by
evaporation in those elevated dry regions, is such that there are no
important rises in the lakes except during unusual freshets.--GREGG.
[115] The road passed southeast through the state of Durango, where
all these small stations may be found on any good map. According to
Pike the owner of the vast estate near La Zarca was the Marquis de San
Miguel.--ED.
[116] Also, from the _Pulque_ is distilled a spiritous liquor called
_mezcal_. The _maguey_ (_Agave Americana_) is besides much used for
hedging. It here performs the double purpose of a cheap and
substantial fence, and of being equally valuable for _pulque_. When no
longer serviceable in these capacities, the pulpy stalk is converted,
by roasting, into a pleasant item of food, while the fibrous blades,
being suitably dressed, are still more useful. They are manufactured
into ropes, bags, etc., which resemble those made of the common
sea-grass, though the fibres are finer. There is one species (which
does not produce pulque, however), whose fibres, known in that country
as _pita_, are nearly as fine as dressed hemp, and are generally used
for sewing shoes, saddlery, and similar purposes.--GREGG.
[117] See Elliott Coues, _Expeditions of Zebulon M. Pike_ (New York,
1895), ii, p. 763, note 34. That editor identifies the scorpion as
_Androctomus biaculeatus_, and favorably comments on Gregg's sensible
explanation of Pike's story.--ED.
[118] Travellers on these public highways not only go 'armed to the
teeth,' but always carry their weapons exposed. Even my wagoners
carried their guns and pistols swung upon the pommels of their
saddles. At night, as we generally camped out, they were laid under
our heads, or close by our sides.--GREGG.
[119] Aguascalientes is the capital of a small interior Mexican state
of the same name, now on the line of the Mexican Central Railway. It
was founded in 1575, and at the close of the eighteenth century was a
place of considerable importance. During the negotiations for peace
between the United States and Mexico (1848), a revolution broke out at
this place, that was with difficulty subdued.--ED.
[120] This was part of the centralist revolution, for which see our
volume xix, p. 271, note 96 (Gregg). Santa Ana himself subdued the
opposition in Zacatecas, where his soldiers were permitted to plunder
widely.--ED.
[121] Some of these table-plain highways, though of but a dry sandy
and clayey soil, are as firm as a brick pavement. In some places, for
miles, I have remarked that the nail-heads of my shod animals would
hardly leave any visible impression.--GREGG.