MISCELLANEOUS NOTES.
TREE ROSES.
In planting tree roses received from the nursery or elsewhere, be sure
and set them deep; the stem, for six or eight inches above the collar,
should be under ground. If wet moss be tied about the stem and head of
the tree after it has been planted, and the moss kept wet for a week or
two after planting, or until the buds begin to start, it will, in nine
cases out of ten, save the tree. The moss maybe removed after the growth
begins. If planted in the fall, the body and top should be well wrapped
up in straw.
THE LAWN.
If one has a fine lawn and desires to keep it so, he should never work
upon or mow it when the turf is wet or soggy. The impression made by the
feet in walking over the sod while in this state, will leave the surface
rough and uneven afterwards. Do not water the grass or plants while the
sun is shining hot, as it will scorch the leaves and make them turn
yellow. All weeds, such as dandelions, plantain, etc., growing up
through the grass, should be carefully and thoroughly dug out by the
roots with a knife or pointed spade; if allowed to remain, they will
soon become so numerous as eventually to kill out the grass and give to
the lawn an appearance of neglect.
LAWN VASES.
The earth in vases of plants that stand out in exposed places, will
rapidly dry out; if shells or fine gravel is laid over the surface of
the soil, they will prevent it from "baking" after watering, and hold
the moisture much longer than without. Try it.
PLANTING TREES.
The spring is preferable to the fall for setting out trees and shrubs of
all kinds. In the Northern States they should be set out about the first
of April, to give the roots time enough to become established before
warm weather starts the leaves.
Of thousands of trees and shrubs that we have planted at this season,
comparatively few failed to live and grow, providing they were in good
condition at the time of planting. Young trees should not be headed back
the year they are set out, but the roots may be trimmed a little,
cutting off all that are bruised and broken. The hole in which a tree or
shrub is to be set, should be ample enough to receive all the roots
without cramping them into a ball, as is the habit of some who plant
trees, the soil filled in about the roots should be fine, but not the
sub-soil, which should be replaced by richer earth. Never allow manure
to come in direct contact with the roots at the time of planting. It is
very injurious, but it may be applied on the surface as a mulch, with
safety.
BOTANICAL NAMES.
All species of plants belong to some particular genus, and bear a
botanical, as well as a common name, by which they are distinguished.
Those who have studied botany will know the exact botanical name of the
plants in most collections. We sometimes see persons making themselves
ridiculous by a pretended display of knowledge on matters of
horticulture and botany, giving or pretending to give the botanical name
of every plant one may happen to mention. The following anecdote will
apply to such: Mr. Sidney Smith, the famous English writer, was once
visiting the conservatory of a young lady who was proud of her plants
and flowers, and used (not very accurately) a profusion of botanical
names. "Madam," he said, "have you the _Psoriasis septennis_?" "No," she
said, very innocently, "I had it last winter, and I gave it to the
Archbishop of Canterbury, and it came out beautifully in the spring."
_Psoriasis septennis_, is the medical name for the "Seven year Itch!"
FROZEN PLANTS.
Tender plants that have become frozen, or but slightly touched by frost,
can be saved, if taken before they commence to thaw out; sprinkle or dip
the affected part in cold water, and then remove the plant or plants
into a dark place to remain for a day, then bring them to the light. We
have saved whole beds of tender plants from death by early frosts in the
autumn, by getting up long before sunrise, drenching the leaves with
water, and then covering the plants with a sheet or blanket.
CUTTING GRASS.
It is so easy to mow the lawn with the light-running modern lawn-mower,
that many fine lawns are injured by too frequent mowings. We should not
follow any set time for mowing, but be governed by the growth of the
grass and the weather. When hot weather approaches, the grass should be
cut less often, for too close cutting will expose the roots, and if the
weather be dry and hot for a considerable period, the grass as a
consequence will wither prematurely.
AN ARCH.
A very simple thing sometimes will look the most attractive. By driving
two limber poles into the ground by the side of each of two gate posts,
and bringing the two ends of the poles together, and fasten them
securely, a respectable arch can be made. At the foot of each pole plant
a _Clematis Jackmanii_, and train them to run up their poles; they will
grow rapidly, and in a short time the arch will be covered with
beautiful purple stars. This Clematis is entirely hardy, and can be used
for the same purpose every year by cutting it close to the ground in the
fall when done growing.
BLOOM.
When watering plants avoid wetting the foliage as much as possible, as
they will not bloom as freely as if the leaves were dry. Geraniums are
known to bloom a great deal more freely where the roots are confined to
a small space, and the soil about them kept rather dry; especially is
this so with the double sorts.
Geraniums may be grafted successfully; the short growers, like Mrs.
Pollock, Mountain of Snow, and Happy Thought, can be top-grafted on to
the strong-growing kinds, like Gen. Grant, Madam Lemoine, and other
strong-growers. If half a dozen sorts are grafted on a single stock,
they will, when in bloom, appear as a curiosity.
MILDEW.
Mildew is a microscopic fungus, that is parasitic upon cultivated
plants. Roses, Bouvardias, and especially grape vines, are subject to
its attacks. If not arrested, mildew will soon strip a plant of its
foliage. Whenever a whitish dust, as if flour had been sprinkled upon
them, appears upon the leaves, particularly those of the Rose, and its
leaves curl up, it is evident that the plant is attacked by mildew, and
some remedy must be at once applied to prevent the spread of the
trouble. Several excellent remedies are used by florists and gardeners
for the prevention and cure of mildew. None of these are more effective
than the following, which, if applied in time, before the disease has
become so bad as to be beyond help, will very surely arrest it. Take
three pounds each, of Flowers of Sulphur and Quick-lime, put these
together and add sufficient hot water to slake the lime. When the lime
is slaked, add six gallons of water, and boil down to two gallons. Allow
the lime to settle, and pour off the clear liquid and bottle it for use.
To treat plants affected by mildew, add one gill of the liquid, prepared
as above, to six gallons of water, and mix well together. This is to be
freely syringed upon the plants every other day. It will not only arrest
mildew, but prevent it. Sudden changes of temperature, as cool nights
following warm days, tend to the production of mildew, and with house
plants, these sudden changes should be carefully guarded against.