ELECTROCUTING THE WASH!
“Can’t afford,” is the first thing that is said against the installation
of electrical equipment in the home. Equipment for offices is placed
because it is saving of time and money and energy, but equipment for the
home is often grudgingly installed just because makeshifts have been the
rule for so long.
Quite true is it, that you often have a hard time to prove to your
husband that the washer is a money saver, that the ironer too is a saver
of money. But this can be done very easily. Let money talk and the
machinery will almost install itself!
The laundry equipment, of course, is a serious thing and must be taken
so. Many things should be investigated before buying, your needs known
to yourself. Equipment should not, like marriage, be entered into
unadvisedly, for when you spend money you must spend it as an investment
and not as a mere lark. You must get your return on the investment or
you have thrown it away.
If you do not know what to get, read, use shoe leather and ask those who
have the thing you want. The manufacturers too are glad to talk over
your needs.
REQUIREMENTS OF THE HOME LAUNDRY
A satisfactory laundry depends on:--
1. The location of room, its relation to outdoor drying and its
relation to the source of supply of incoming laundry.
2. Proper floor, ceiling and walls. All joints curved, no corners.
3. Selection of equipment. The types and kinds best fitted to size of
family and room.
4. The advantageous disposal of appliances purchased.
5. Thorough instruction of operators in the use of the machinery, as a
good machine is useless unless the operator knows the requirements.
6. Proper care of appliances.
7. Sanitary conditions: light and ventilation. Good air is part of all
good laundry work.
8. The acceptance of the worker to use cheerfully the machinery and the
adequate payment of the worker.
9. Knowledge on the part of the housekeeper or mistress of the laundry
procedure in order to oversee more intelligently the work done. _Women
seem to think a knowledge of cookery_ necessary but _give little heed to
the importance_ of the laundry.
10. A system developed and maintained for the laundering of clothes.
So much for the general principles. This chapter will not deal at all
with methods of laundry work ... as is.
The only reason for the electric laundry is that it does save time,
money and energy and prolongs the life of clothes to a certain degree.
In doing missionary work in the past for these things, people said: “you
can lead a maid to the washer but you can’t make her wash.” They said
this too about the horse and the trough, yet if he never drank he would
have died of thirst! So much for that argument. You may as well say: You
can lead a cook to the soup pot but you can’t make him stir!
Money talks to husbands! you can prove the saving.
Less work talks to laundresses, you can prove the saving.
GENERALLY SPEAKING
A good equipment for a house with six in the family and three to four
servants is as follows:
A tiled floor. The large blue tile is interesting and less glaring for
the floor than the white. Linoleum floors too are splendid and cream
walls.
Washer ¹⁄₃ h. p.; solid copper lined with planished tin to prevent
corrosion, white enamel ironing machine, two rolls; clothes dryer with
four heating units; clothes boiler solid copper lined with planished tin
with screen for holding clothes off the bottom of the boiler;
combination sleeve and skirt board; two metal tables; overhead clothes
dryer, copper clothes extractor; four stationary tubs; electric irons
for valeting and fine work.
THE ELECTRIC IRONER
A great fuss has been made about setting the clock ahead one hour to
save time and daylight, but little attention has been given the problem
of saving four hours every ironing day by means of electricity and the
ironing machine. A good machine, unlike the mangle which only folds and
is not heated, should be able to iron at the rate of seven or eight feet
per minute. In this way the ordinary ironing can be done four times as
quickly as by the old method.
Many a house-wife without a maid has found ironing good sport with a
good ironer and the labor saving devices have often made marriage
possible--where a servant was too much of a luxury.
Roughly, the ordinary laundry takes about half a day--one hour for
eight pieces for the average family of five, including all things from
table linen to handkerchiefs. By hand this is about four and a half to
five hours. This costs about $50 to $100 a year or $500 to $1,000 for
ten years’ supply of laundered possessions.
The fuel consumed for the average ironing with coal or electricity costs
about $15.60 per year: With a good machine ironing by electricity or gas
will come to about one and a half cents, or a total of three cents for
ironing and heating, which is a saving of twenty-seven cents a week or
$14.04 yearly. In ten years a saving of $140. This is apart from the
benefit to health and strength.
There is one on the market with a bench attached on which the worker can
sit down to her work. As the feed is so arranged that the material turns
under, because of the adjustable delivery board, one doesn’t have to
rise at all, and the saving of strength and comfort is beyond
calculation.
An ordinary table cloth on an ironing machine takes about three or four
minutes. With a good electric iron it takes about twenty-five to thirty.
Besides this the cloth is ironed evenly and the pattern, if it be
embroidered, is evenly brought out. Initials come out in beautiful
relief, buttons on garments do not break because of the deeply padded
felt rolls which are covered with an especially-made muslin.
As an ironing machine has proven a practical, money-saving proposition,
what is the best way to purchase one? First, you should have a good idea
as to the breadth on the average of your sheets and table cloths, not
forgetting that it is wise to have a machine wide enough to carry two
table napkins at once. This saves time, saves the over-impression of the
felt in one spot and also uses up the whole length of heat along the
roll.
In large households, where the work is unusually heavy, often taking
more than one day, a machine about 48″ or 56″ is used for 2¹⁄₂-3 yards
of linen. These rolls should be padded, the heavier the better, to take
care of heavily embroidered initials.
Many persons think that an ironing machine is a mangle limited to
ironing only the coarser flat work such as sheets, towels, etc. It is,
however, not a mangle but an ironer and will iron practically everything
except the more fancy shirt waists and elaborate dresses. It will iron
to the entire satisfaction kitchen aprons, nightgowns, pajamas,
underwear, children’s play clothes, hosiery, men’s negligee and silk
shirts, and iron, better than an expert laundress can do by hand,
tablecloths, napkins and centerpieces, doilies, dresser scarfs,
blankets, sheets, bed spreads, pillow cases, towels and handkerchiefs.
It is a great help to curtains, as they will hang perfectly after
ironing. Trousers may also be pressed in such a machine.
The ironing machines on the market claim certain best points. One that a
moveable shoe (the heated part under which the garment is passed) is
good because you can remove starchy accumulations and clean it easily.
Some say that the stationary shoe is the best because the ironing cannot
help being done evenly. You will have to pick your machine.
In another machine the manufacturers use their patented gas burner of
drilled holes and their air mixture as a talking point to afford a gas
saving. Another claims that oiling is necessary only every six months.
The feed board is a requisite part which must be perfect. Lowering the
feed board removes the roll from contact with the ironing surface in
some machines. This is the same principle as putting the hand iron on
the rest. At the same time the motion of the roll is automatically
stopped, so that the goods can be withdrawn at any time. It also enables
one to lay a folded piece or a number of them on and over the roll, and
it insures a straight start at all times. On single or double
thicknesses of goods the feed-board need not be lowered, as these will
start in readily. This patented feature means safety to the operator and
safety to the goods being ironed. The feed-board is the flat piece of
board running the length of the machine over which the linen passes.
Some machines are advertised as having all gears enclosed and protected.
This, of course, makes operation safer.
The swinging arms, two generally, provided for hanging linen on, are a
convenient addition.
AN EXTRAORDINARY ADVANCE
The above is the usual list of machines made to-day but there is an
unusual one now on the market. This one works entirely by electricity,
it can be heated by gas or electricity. There are no levers to handle,
no treadles to tread. It works completely by a switch and dial. The
little finger is sufficient only to do the job if all your other fingers
were disabled!
It is a very convenient size for family use and has been in use now long
enough to assure perfection of adaptability for the home.
In case this all-electric machine has a blow out, and to protect the
clothes from burning on the shoe there is simple provision to guard
against this and all ills. The shoe by a button works back and forth if
necessary, and taken altogether it is a beautiful mechanism.
A few excellent machines, too, have the two rollers instead of one. This
is supposed to hold material firmer and work more expeditiously.
GOOD POINTS
In some cases the gas burner and electric heater are divided in the
center so that the burner can be used on warm work without scorching the
unused part of the roll.
The machines should be so made that they are comparatively easy to
clean.
Levers are not quite as good as the automatic, adjustable feed-board,
which insures ease of control. It is worked by raising and lowering.
This brings the roll in contact with the ironing surface, the same
principle as a hand iron is brought to and from its rest. The action
also stops and starts the rotation of the roller. In other words, it is
automatic and there is no possibility of the operator becoming confused
at a critical moment. There are no levers to pull or switches to turn;
the control is instinctive and always under the hands of the operator
for instant use. Moreover, you can lay your work over the roll while
idle, insuring a straight edge and start the work again at your
convenience.
Ironing on these machines is done on the same principle as with a flat
iron, only instead of passing the iron over the goods, the goods are
moved against a stationary iron.
POWER AND FUEL
Gas, gasoline and electricity are the fuels used to heat the machines.
Electricity and hand-power turn them.
Motors come from ¹⁄₈ to ¹⁄₄ horse power depending on the size of the
machine. When buying one, be sure to tell agent whether you have
Alternating Current (A. C.) or Direct Current (D. C.) and what voltage
you have. Motors are generally supplied 110, 220 volts D. C. and 60
Cycle 110, or 220 volts A. C. (We are not considering here the belt
driven larger sizes.)
About ⁷⁄₈ of a pint of gasoline is used on the smaller size machine.
Sometimes the amount increases to 1¹⁄₂ pints; from about 17 to 33 cubic
feet of gas. In the case of electricity as fuel for high heat, 2.5 to 6
kilowatts are used. For medium 1.7 to 4. For low .85 to 2.
The current driving the machine is from 180 to 320 watts per hour.
SIZE
The household models come in 46″, 42″, 37″, 32″ actual ironing widths.
The 46″ and 42″ seem to be popular with some manufacturers. The former
is for 2¹⁄₂ yards or 90″ wide and 22″ small linen, and the latter for
2¹⁄₄ yards or 81″ wide or 20″ small linen. The 37″ for 2 yards-wide
linen. Size 32″ takes up actually about 42″ × 26″ of floor space, the
37″--47″ × 26″, the 46″--58″ × 25″, etc. There is one ironing machine on
the market that is separate from its base so that it can be set up in an
apartment on the top of a radiator or on a 14″ shelf. This answers the
wants of the “flat dweller.”
It is an interesting fact that one agent in New York is shipping 1000
ironing machines daily, many of which go to Boston. This is due to the
low rate of electricity that prevails in that city. And here’s a
point:--even in some vicinities where the rate is low, where two lines
only supply a whole state with electricity, it is not advisable to use
electricity for machines. You must have a good current, even service,
etc., to make it worth while.
HOW TO OPERATE
You light the burners on these machines as you light the gas, turn the
electric switch and iron. It is quite simple and safe. Many of the
machines have a pilot light to tell when the current (electric) is on or
off. To heat by electricity all you do is to attach the cord to the
ordinary wall socket.
A hand-power machine is driven by turning a handle. Thirty-five turns a
minute is the right speed. It can be converted any time into a
belt-driven machine and attached to the washing machine or anything else
that goes by motor.
The saving in health of operator whether wife or servant and the saving
of the life of linens, etc., is beyond computation.
The best type of ironer has (1) the stationary ironing shoe under which
the felt padded cylinder revolves. This insures evenly distributed heat
and avoids the chance of scorching clothes.
In some machines this shoe can be set back in case of accident and
prevents the clothes on roller from being burnt. (2) Feed board instead
of lever. This gives more rapid control and is more responsive to the
touch. (3) Electric switch instead of lever or feed board.
A FEW PERTINENT QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
How long would it take to iron a table cloth by the machine?
About three or four minutes in comparison to twenty-five or thirty by
the expert laundress using an electric iron. A saving in current and
time.
What about handsome linens with heavy initials?
“The pad on the roller should be plenty soft enough to imbed not only
the initials but carry buttons and not break them!”
“What things can’t you iron with it?”
“Only fancy waists and skirts. Laces can be beautifully done and, of
course, all the table and bed linens, trousers, etc., etc., etc.”
“How big are these machines?”
“They come in four different sizes, but the ordinary home can use the
46-inch cylinder or at least as wide as your widest linen to the best
advantage. That enables fewer folds and more ironing lay-out on roll,
enabling you to put a few napkins on the roll at the same time instead
of one.”
THE WASHING MACHINE
The variety of washing machines on the market to-day are scheduled in
three figures.
The following will give you an idea of the better known types from which
to weed out yours.
_A. Types_
1. Rotary or cylinder.
In which the wash is put into a perforated cylinder which revolves
through the soapy water.
2. Oscillating.
In which the wash is put into the machine and is washed by being
shaken back and forth with enough friction and motion to clean clothes
thoroughly. The bottoms of these machines are corrugated or in some
shape to offer resistance and cause the necessary friction.
3. Vacuum.
In which the clothes are put into machine and are washed by the
operation of vacuum or suction cups raised up and down, drawing the
water through clothes.
4. Dolly.
In which clothes are washed by the semi-rotating dolly or device which
looks like a milking stool.
5. Combination of these types such as the Dolly and Disc Twin tubs
with a mechanism in each, washers with a bench upon which to place
wash basket, etc., oscillating cylinder as well as rotating. As to
wringers on these machines, they are stationary, swinging or sliding.
The latest type is the alternating. Here the drum rotates, and is
divided into two compartments by a perforated plate. The clothing to
be washed is divided equally between the two compartments, and the
mechanical action of the machine produces alternately the action of
the cylinder, oscillating and the vacuum method.
6. A good combination in cylinder, oscillating and vacuum type, has
just been added to the market.
7. Balance drum, in which the clothes are put in a drum and it shakes
on a pivot.
8. Cylinder type worked by water force--for hotel room use.
9. Vacuum and cylinder types for tub use run by electricity--for
houses too small in which to bring a washing machine.
_B. General Requirements of Washers_
1. All parts which might tear clothes should be covered.
2. All washers, if not stationary, should be equipped with swinging
reversible wringer.
3. Hard wood outside or copper or some hard metal and to prevent
corrosion in the case of copper exterior, planished tin interiors are
the best.
4. Durability.
5. Ease and simplicity of operation.
[Illustration:
_Courtesy of Scientific Heater Co._
WET DAYS CAN BE DRY DAYS, NO MATTER WHAT THE LAW MAY BE, WITH THE INDOOR
DRYER]
6. Minimum parts to take out and clean.
7. Less wear and tear on clothes.
8. Automatic release on wringer in case finger is caught.
9. All interiors smooth, non-absorbent of soil or odors.
10. Wash and wring at same time or separately.
Now you have the requirements, you can take your choice after you have
gone about comparing and examining all the different types.
DRYERS
“What about the dryers?”
They are one of the things that you could get along without if you
wanted to waste time in drying. They are expensive to buy, but you are
never held up by weather. They dry clothes a good color and you do not
miss the sun. They are heated by their own heat, electric or gas, or can
be attached to the coal stove and get the overflow heat. They are made
to allow no heat to escape even when extended. (See illustration.)
Up until late years women not convicts have been time servers. But long
before the vote was women’s, there was a mighty revolt and women decided
it became them better to be time savers and not time servers.
For this reason in gallant fashion manufacturers have rushed to fill the
needs of women in their homes and from soaps to ironing machines have
they labored and not in vain.
For example, in ancient days if it rained on Monday (then called Moan
day) or was Monday humid, the work either had to be given up because
drying was impossible or the whole household work had to be dislocated
by the transference of wash day to a more sunny occasion, to a day when
drying was not a theory but an inevitable accomplishment.
No longer need we say, “If at first you can’t succeed, dry, dry again.”
For the heated air dryer has come for the laundry of the private home as
well as for the apartment cellar, and drying has become an indoor sport
rather than an outdoor hazard.
These dryers are merely galvanized metal of from two to ten compartments
from 46″ to 53″ wide and about 5′ high. The compartments pull out as
easily as a watch stem and each drying rack has six drying rods 66″ long
or a total of 33′ of rack. Each rack is about 10″ wide. The ordinary
length of the rack is 5′ 10″ and the distance from the back of the
cabinet to the end of the racks is about 11′ 8″. When the cabinet is
closed the track which protrudes overhead can be used to hang clothes
on. The overhead track is far more convenient than the floor wheels upon
which some racks pull out, as the floor, should it be uneven, will
prevent ease of operation of the racks and annoyance will ensue. Single
dryers can be bought with two racks only 23″ or so wide for smaller
rooms.
These cabinets can be sunk flush in the wall and take up no more room if
the building is so constructed or lie against or at right angles to the
wall. The heat does not permeate the room in well-made dryers. Any stove
used in the laundry should not be in connection with the dryer.
The dryer which really does its work should:
1. Not overheat clothes.
2. Not sweat them.
3. Not turn them yellow.
4. Thoroughly ventilate them.
5. Remove all odors.
6. Dry them rapidly.
7. Make them easy to iron.
THEORY AND PRACTICE
It has been imagined that sun and wind alone dry clothes but the fact is
that air is the drying medium and therefore the best dryers provide a
good circulation of air plus heat. Dry air has a tremendous love for
moisture and eats it up as a blotter eats up ink. The warmer the air the
more moisture it will hug. This would seem enough, just to bake the
clothes, but baking does not remove odors and does render them yellow;
they are unventilated and smell like the laundry, so people are prone to
say “Sun drying or nothing.”
However, the best dryers provide for circulation of air. At its best the
air changes from 250 to 300 times an hour. The air must change, for
after one lot of air holds all the moisture it can, it cannot take any
more from the clothes, and new arid air must be substituted for that
which is moisture-fed. This is accomplished by a moist air exhaust in
the newer dryers, which are larger than the older types. The result is
white, odorless, air-swept clothing.
The stream of air is usually accomplished by the use of ordinary chimney
draft assisted by the warm products of heating from the heater. The hot
air products of combustion pass through a tapered nozzle into the moist
air exhaust pipe, and by the speed a suction is created which helps to
pull the moist air out of the cabinet and up the chimney.
When you buy a dryer see to it that the exhaust pipe is large so that
you will have wind and heat instead of just heat. Air circulation is
what you are really buying. See that you get it.
SUPERFICIAL POINTS
All parts upon which clothes hang should be non-rusting.
The racks must pull out without any expenditure of strength and must run
quietly.
Racks must be within the reach of the average sized woman, to avoid
stretching.
The heating burner must be simple and easily reached so that you can
tell at a glance how much heat you have turned on.
There must be ample screening so that should a garment fall it cannot
possibly get scorched.
The finish of these dryers must be smooth, without protuberances which
could in any case tear the garments to be dried.
Dryers are best heated with gas, electricity or kerosene. Care must be
given to get the best kerosene burner as they are troublesome when not
perfection.
Dryers are simple to operate, and you are saved: (1) tugging clothes to
roof or yard; (2) putting up a wash-line; (3) fastening clothes and
tearing them with clothes-pins; (4) carrying heavy baskets anywhere; (5)
sprinkling and rolling clothes, because you keep them drying only long
enough to be ready to iron; (6) the wear and tear from the exposure to
dust, sunburn, fading, snow and other outdoor contaminations.
ELECTRICITY OR NONE
A very good little dryer, simple as a broiler, is the over-head slatted
dryer, which, on a pulley, is spread with clothes and pulled up to the
ceiling where the clothes dry by the risen heat of the room.
In a small kitchen where the washing and cooking is done, it is a real
boon, and in the laundry, too, it is a genuine convenience.
The rack is about 32″ to 64″, and on the ceiling it is comfortable and
useful and out of the way. It comes in two sizes.
Your clothes go directly from the wringer to the rack as in the big
dryers, you obviate unnecessary handling, clothes-pin destruction, etc.
It can be pulled down to your own level and hitched on a wall pin so as
to make it reliably firm while you load it.
TABLES AND SHELVES
Shelves in a laundry are very much more useful than a quarter of a dozen
tables or to buy two or three tables for laundries and abandon them for
needed foot room, yet long for some room to put things on.
The steel unit of shelves is a very convenient way out. By using a
continuous running shelf, like an amplified plate rail, any place in the
laundry can be a handy one for placing a bit of soap, a clothes-pin,
washing powder, clothing waiting for starching, or any other thing.
Steps could be saved and wit conserved.
Tables are a necessity, especially the large 7′ table or smaller. The
wooden one for a laundry is quite useful and so also is the all-metal
table. But too many tables spoil the temper, and the shelf is a comfort.
They should be from 31 to 38 inches high, if possible adjustable. The
tops are most satisfactory in a non-porous porcelain or porcelain
enamel. Some people like hard wood or metal.
IRONING BOARDS
There are many varieties of ironing boards on the market. Some fold back
against the wall and some do not. Some fold back in self closets against
the wall. Some are adjustable to different heights, others are not. They
come in various sizes and finishes and do away with the falling and
slipping ironing board which has caused so many useless burns.
In large houses the valets have tables such as you can purchase with
sleeve boards, swinging bodyguard, supply cabinet for cleaning fluids
and brushes, and with electric iron equipment, snap switches and
automatic signal pilot lamps for each iron. These tables are made of
seasoned pine painted white. Legs, underbody, cabinet, brackets and cord
supporters are in silver bronze paint. The boards are covered with the
best quality felt. Unbleached muslin makes a good covering for any
ironing board and is generally used.
The ironing board is indispensable for fancy things, even when the
ironing machine is regularly used.
A BURNING SHAME
When un-electric irons are used, there should be an ample supply of iron
holders. If your irons are not of the removable insulated handle type,
iron holders of ticking or soft bits of carpet can be used. This sounds
very elementary, but many scorchings would not have taken place had the
laundress not rushed to get through to save the hurting hand.
This is truly a burning shame if anything could so be called. It is
possible, too, to get a thin bit of asbestos encased in a bit of ticking
and so protect the laundress from discomfort and your clothing from
destruction.
These iron holders could be made by the children of the house who are
always looking for something that they can make to give to Mother,
Auntie or Grandma.
THE LAUNDRY CHUTE
Much time could be saved in the laundry if whenever it were possible a
chute could be built into which clothes can be thrown and go directly to
the laundry where is situated a basket or a terminal closet to receive
them. Here stuffing the dumb waiter is obviated, also carrying the
clothes in baskets down the lift or just using the ugly clothes hamper
in dressing room or bath room. Here is a more or less suggestive plan of
arrangement.
ARRANGEMENT
_Assuring less expenditure in labor and money._
1. Soiled linen chute in one corner of the room.
2. A table near to sort laundry before washing.
3. Tubs in center of the room to be accessible.
4. After clothes are washed and blued they can be partially dried in
dryer and ironed.
5. Then a table on which to place clothes to be ironed.
6. Ironer next in the best light possible and arranged away from wall to
permit two people working at it, if necessary.
7. Skirt and sleeve board next.
8. After which another skirt and sleeve board or a valet table or
another plain table.
Some people keep a sewing table in the laundry but it is easier to have
the sewing done in the sewing room and away from the laundry work.
Because the different maids might much better stay in their own
territory and failing maids it’s easier to keep your threads any place
but _in_ a laundry.
FLAT IRONS
Because there are some dainty things that cannot be put through a
machine, electric flatirons are absolutely indispensable in a laundry.
For that reason there are many kinds on the market. They are usually
made from 2¹⁄₂ ℔s. to 15 ℔s. Most have but one heat, but some have three
heats. A traveler will be pleased with the adjustable 3 lb. iron which
has a voltage adjustment making it practical with 220 or 110 voltage.
SOAPS AND POWDERS
With the best washing machines you get bad results if you do not use
good soaps or cleaning powders.
There is a very good powder on the market which not only cleans the
clothes well, and leaves no greasy residue, but is really not a soap at
all. It combines rapidly with water, and makes a fine suds and cleans
very rapidly.
For the most part to-day, yellow soaps and white soaps as cleaners are
on a par but are not as good for laundry purposes, since the resin in
the yellow soap combines unhappily with your clothes.
White soaps are best, if you want good results.
Another delightful new thing on the market is the starch which does not
starch but which imparts a gloss and resistance without a stiffness.
This will come as a boon to many women who do not want their lingeries
stiff but do want it to look as a starched bit of linen does. In the
same way as starch this composition permits the lingerie to stand up
longer under use.
The foregoing is just a group of ideas in concrete form to add to the
comfort of laundry days. They can be passed on to friends as ideas,
even ideals, or as practical, concrete gifts.
All three or any would be acceptable to the thinking housekeeper who
wants one hundred and one things done better than a man can do one thing
well. So all aids in the home are worth not only considering but
investigating with eye and ear as well as heart and soul.
TO AVOID BLOW-OUTS
Perhaps more money is wasted on blow-outs in homes that utilize
electricity than any other cause. If you follow the rules, illustrated
here and first published by the Edison Company, not only will you save
expense in the home, but you will save the Fire Department, which is
constantly called upon to save lives and property because of unnecessary
fires due to carelessness (Not to electricity) in handling flat irons.
The cardinal principle for the use of all electrical appliances is this:
When you are not continuously using any device, shut off the current. To
do this, entirely disconnect the flatiron, curling iron or whatever the
device may be, by pulling out the plug. Do not be content with turning
off the current at the lamp socket. It is absolutely necessary that the
current be completely cut off when the iron is not in constant use.
Sometimes the current has been inadvertently turned on when the flatiron
has been left connected at the lamp socket, and material has been badly
scorched or even more serious damage has resulted. An electric coil for
heating water has caused fire when carelessly left near inflammable
material. In like manner a connected curling iron when heedlessly placed
on a bureau scarf has also caused damage. Remember the invariable rule
for the use of all electrical appliances--pull out the plug to
disconnect when not using.
L’ENVOIE
Go to the best dealer.
Buy the best only; it reduces later costs.
Simplicity, safety and serviceability necessary.
Avoid machinery with extra parts to be cleaned or upon which injury to
attendant or clothes can be perpetrated.
Don’t buy until you are perfectly sure by numerous comparisons and other
experience what are the best types of machinery to install. Be sure to
apply the three S tests: Service, Safety, Simplicity.