Transcriber’s Notes
Texts printed in italics in the source document have been transcribed
_between underscores_. Small capitals have been replaced with ALL
CAPITALS.
More Transcriber’s Notes may be found at the end of this text.
CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE
Cheating the Junk-Pile
THE PURCHASE AND MAINTENANCE
OF HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENTS
BY
ETHEL R. PEYSER
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
RICHARDSON WRIGHT
Editor of “House and Garden Magazine”
Illustrated by drawings by
HARRY RICHARDSON
and by photographs
[Illustration]
NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
681 FIFTH AVENUE
Copyright, 1922,
BY E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY
_All Rights Reserved_
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
[Illustration:
_Courtesy of Central Oil and Gas Stove Company_
BUNGALOW AND PALACE CAN BE FED WITH THE NEWER OIL RANGES WITH PLENTY OF
SPACE AND OVENS]
To
“HOME AND MOTHER”
The Experience of Both has
Made this Collection Possible
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This book cannot go on its way without acknowledging Richardson Wright,
Editor of _House and Garden Magazine_, at whose request the chapters
were written, as the source of it and as the stimulus to the gathering
of the material. I also want to acknowledge the unflagging services of
Celia Arbeit, his secretary, who at every point helped in collating the
straying text and furtive photographs.
I must not forget the manufacturers, who have supplied me with
information, illustration, and enthusiasm, and also the several experts
who were philanthropic enough to read every chapter (before they came
out in _House and Garden_) to eradicate any technical or scientific
anachronism that might have lurked therein. To all these and others who
have helped I am very grateful.
E. R. P.
New York City
August 1922
AUTHOR’S FOREWORD
Ignorant buying is the junk-pile’s subsistence.
This book is in no way intended to be a book on household efficiency, in
the usual sense of the word--it is no religio-culinaris, no domestic
Baedecker or home Taylor. It is merely meant to be a means to the
purchase and care of the best household equipments and to be an
instruction _before_ not after the purchase is made. Further, it is
meant to cheat the junk-pile, by inspiring the buyer to get the maximum
advantage out of every purchase of the thing he buys and by the proper
care of it after he gets it. It is a book which conspires against the
aspiring junk heap in the yard or in the store-room.
There is so much in the market to-day in the way of household equipments
and devices, that a book like this is necessary to give the home-keeper
as much of an idea as to what to _eliminate_ as to what to choose. It is
necessary, too, to give the home-keeper an idea of the maintenance of
what she has elected to buy, as the proper care of possessions adds 100%
to their longevity.
In every case in this book the very best devices are discussed. If the
reader feels that in any case a too expensive article has been
delineated at least he (or she) will get from the discussion of the
thing, an idea and ideal of what is to be demanded of this sort of
device ... and if she (or he) be improvident, will immediately buy a
_cheap_ thing instead of waiting until he (or she) can afford a better
article if not the best. In short, the purchaser should demand in every
purchase the largest collection of “best traits.”
So this book, then, aims to give the purchaser an idea of what things or
_qualities_ to buy; to stimulate the manufacturer who is ready to
furnish them when given a reason for doing so; to make of every purchase
a paying investment, not a mere expenditure; and to cheat the
Crœsus-like junk-man out of his expected heritage.
Due to the time it takes to print and publish a book the reader will
realize that there may be new things created which could not be included
herein.
E. R. P.
INTRODUCTION
THE HOUSEWIFE AS MANAGER AND PURCHASING AGENT
Several years ago we heard a great deal of talk about women’s place
being in the home. The slogan was used as a campaign challenge and as a
sneer. It was bandied up and down the country-side until we got pretty
tired of hearing it. Since the privilege of voting has been given women
and since their weight is being felt in elections, the cry has died
down. The simple reason is that neither the employment of women in
war-work nor the radical challenges of the ultra-feminist has altered
the fundamental fact that the home is a woman’s realm. Now you can
banish her to the home and make it such a place of drudgery that she
loathes it; or she can abide there as a queenly figure, director of its
work.
Thanks to the inventive genius of our manufacturers, the home has ceased
to be a place of exile for a woman. The long hours that used to obtain
in housework, the wear and tear on nerves and muscles, are being cut
down by labor-saving equipment. The shortage of servants is being met
with the same devices.
It can never be expected that a big house will be totally servantless.
Utopia is still far away. But it can be reasonably expected that every
house will get along with fewer servants. The hope of this expectation
lies in two salient features of these times: (1) the simplifying of our
home life; (2) the position of the housewife as a manager.
One of the reasons for the high cost of living has been the complication
of our living. The past generation has been brought up to feel that so
many more things are necessary to comfort than was the previous
generation. Short cuts to comfort cost money. The grocery order sent
over the telephone saves steps but adds to the bill. The dress bought
ready-made is a convenience--and an extra expense. The food and drink
picked up at shops have added to the cost of living--especially the
drink. Nowadays Congress is encouraging the making of drinks at home,
sensible women will take a basket on arm and supervise their own buying
at grocery stores, and we are forgetting the silly twaddle about clothes
not looking tailor-made. The way to meet the high cost of living is to
simplify the manner of living. And the way to simplify the manner of
living is to live more at home and do more at home.
We’ve reached the ebb-tide. The flood is leaving the restaurant and the
cabaret and turning toward home. Make no mistake about that. We are
being cleansed with the fire that we ourselves kindled. The home is
coming into its own, and with it, the woman in the home.
Taking them by and large, our grandmothers were pretty good managers.
They didn’t have vacuum cleaners or electric toasters or telephones or a
lot of other equipment that has cut down housework today, but, if you
will remember, they did have a very decided system in running and
managing their households.
Our mother’s day saw the introduction of labor-saving devices. The
household work then stood on the threshold of a new era, but it didn’t
have the courage to put a foot across. Moreover, the equipment had not
reached the degree of proficiency where it could be considered
practical. The machinery of household equipment complicated living.
This present generation has the perfected machinery and much more to
come, but it lacks what our grandmothers had--a system. We are dealing
with old problems with new equipment. It is a case of old wine in new
bottles, and we have to find a way of handling it. The secret, of
course, is a system, a policy.
The housewife of today is to her home what a man is to his office. She
is a house manager, a Domiologist, as the author of this book suitably
coined. To be successful in that sphere she must apply the same
principles of management to her work that her husband does to his. She
must consider three things: (1) household policy; (2) household
equipment; (3) employed personnel.
The employed personnel not only includes the cook and the other servants
of the house, but also the grocer from whom the vegetables are bought,
the butcher, the dealer in housewares. There is just as much reason for
looking into the character of her butcher before she buys from him as
for looking into her cook’s reputation before she hires her. In this
respect the housewife is a purchasing agent and she should apply the
same exacting principles that a purchasing agent of a factory does.
The household equipment can generally be divided into departments, just
as office work is divided into departments. There is the cooking
department, the laundry department and the cleaning department. These
will be large and small according to the size of the family and the
house. Each requires its own equipment and each should be kept
separate--the cleaning instruments such as brushes, brooms, vacuum
cleaner, dust cloths, etc., in their own department or closet; the
things appertaining to the kitchen in the kitchen; the laundry
equipment, soap, clothes-lines etc. in the laundry. Some household
managers may say that this is an old story. Yes, to them. But hundreds
of women complicate the household work by not using this departmental
idea. So soon as they do, household work begins to straighten out.
A household policy is less easy to define. In an office a policy is the
way of conducting business--both the way and the purpose. In a house it
should be the same.
It is this that the author of this book reiterates over and over again,
a policy and system in the department of the installing of labor-saving
and work-doing machinery and devices and operations to reduce the
irksomeness of household management. It is this that the readers of
_House and Garden Magazine_, wherein this book appeared serially, have
enjoyed. Men and women have profited by its accurate technical
discussion and by the delightful presentation with its occasional bits
of humor. For these reasons I gladly recommend it to its future public
which I feel sure has need of it, consciously or unconsciously.
RICHARDSON WRIGHT
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION. THE HOUSEKEEPER AS MANAGER.
BY RICHARDSON WRIGHT, Editor of _House and Garden Magazine_ xi
CHAPTER
I. INTRODUCING YOU TO ELECTRICITY 1
Electricity simplified for your many uses.
II. KEEPING OUT OF HOT WATER 13
Making dishwashing a pleasant game. How the drudgery of
dishwashing is banished by electricity.
III. ELECTROCUTING THE WASH 22
No more wasting the laundress. Electric laundries make
washing, drying and ironing swifter and cleaner.
IV. THE PORTABLE VACUUM CLEANER 45
Makes a clean sweep if you buy the right kind.
V. A PIPE DREAM 54
The stationary vacuum plant in your cellar is piped for
convenience, like water to your chambers.
VI. COOKING BY ELECTRIC CURRENT 62
Not a currant jam, but a release of time and a gain in
cleanliness and comfort.
VII. TAKING GUESSWORK OUT OF GAS COOKERY 75
Done by the new devices for timing and temperatures and
the new surfaces for cooking.
VIII. THE OIL RANGE 86
These days can never say “Call me oily, mother dear,” as
the new ranges are odorless, swift and clean cookers.
IX. COOKING BY ABSENT TREATMENT 96
The method of the new fireless electric cookers.
X. QUESTIONS FROM THE LEAGUE OF RATIONS 100
Well met by the new kitchenette equipments.
XI. KEEPING IT COOL 106
The refrigerator is good only if you buy the best types.
The points are here for your digestion.
XII. THE PASSING OF THE ICE MAN 113
The irrevocable tragedy with the advent of the ice-making
refrigerators.
XIII. A BURNING QUESTION 119
The incinerator. The right kind of incineration is the
only way to answer the question.
XIV. AIR AND ITS ENTRANCE AND EXIT 126
Depend on many things detailed in this chapter.
XV. THE PLUMBING IN YOUR KITCHEN 136
A “piping” chapter in reference to sinks of all kinds,
refrigerator connection, etc.
XVI. KNIFE-LIFE IN THE KITCHEN 150
Speaks for their habits, habitat, uses, and abilities.
XVII. THE ANCIENT WOOD IMPLEMENTS 163
Their place in your modern economy.
XVIII. GLASS WARE 170
Some transparent but overlooked facts.
XIX. THE BRIDE’S KITCHEN 175
With its accessories is the same as any first equipment
for any kitchen (utensils, function, etc.).
XX. CANNING AND PRESERVING 187
With many new angles.
XXI. CASSEROLES OR THE REVOLUTION CULINARY 197
An exciting title for a casserole discussion.
XXII. FURNISHING YOUR KITCHEN 202
The best, according to your purse, is suggested here.
Tables much discussed.
XXIII. KITCHEN COSMETICS 211
How to “make-up” the kitchen with paint and varnish.
XXIV. THE GREAT AMERICAN DISH 220
Ice cream is made possible by proper implements.
XXV. THE KITCHEN ROTARY CLUB 229
Tells of the new and old buffers and mixers for culinary
amalgamations, etc., and how to “beat it” modernly.
XXVI. FLAWS OR FLOORS IN YOUR KITCHEN 236
Gives advice as to choice and treatment of floorings.
XXVII. FEDERALIZING YOUR KITCHEN 244
Having kitchen cabinets built the right way, so that
from them kitchen processes can comfortably be directed.
XXVIII. WHEN THE POT HANGS HIGH 250
A plea for the convenient arrangement of everyday
kitchen utensils. Hooks versus closets, and daylight
versus dark.
XXIX. BRUSHING UP ON BRUSHES 255
Their manufacture, functions, treatment, and
adaptability to different things.
XXX. THE QUIET HOUSE 264
How by insulations, and various other devices, quiet may
be had in _any_ home.
XXXI. OSTRACIZING THE FLY 269
By screens (and cleanliness). Here cleanliness is taken
for granted and screens are discussed--not movie but
movable screens.
XXXII. POLISHING THE WATER SUPPLY 282
Another way of saying, “Here are ways to filter water
properly.”
XXXIII. OUTSTRIPPING THE GALE 292
By weather stripping. A discussion of weather strips to
save time, money and health.
XXXIV. BEAUTY AND THE BATH 302
Retails the new bathroom fixings which make them less
like a hospital in appearance.
XXXV. THE WINTER OF YOUR CONTENT 313
Can be had only by heating plants properly bought and
kept.
XXXVI. OUTLETS SAVE YOUR INCOME 328
In lighting the house.
XXXVII. TIN WARE, RUBBER AND PAPER 337
Mere articles of use and comfort.
XXXVIII. COME OUT OF THE PARLOR 343
And see what lovely gifts you can give from the realm of
the kitchen.
XXXIX. LATEST INVENTIONS 348
At least as late as the printing of a new book
permitted.
XL. MEASURE FOR MEASURE 354
A warning in terms of weights and measures for kitchen
economy.
XLI. TAKING THE KITCHEN ALONG 366
When motoring or picnicking what to carry.
XLII. THE FIRE HAZARD 370
Ways to decrease the danger of fire.
XLIII. TAKING CARE OF THE HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENT 390
The only way to cheat the junk-pile after buying the
best devices.
XLIV. A FEW SUGGESTIVE BOOKS 400
In which you may read further about things we could not
touch upon in this short collection.
ILLUSTRATIONS
Bungalow and palace can be fed with the newer oil
ranges with plenty of space and ovens _Frontispiece_
PAGE
A way to keep out of “hot water”--The portable dishwasher 15
The dishwasher which is a table when not washing 19
Wet days can be dry days no matter what the law may be with the
indoor dryer 33
Looking for the dust which was sucked down from above stairs! 55
Electric range 63
TO FACE PAGE
Hood and stove heated by gas and wood 75
The smooth top 38″ gas range takes the stoop out of stoopid
cookery 77
Taking the guess work out of oven temperatures by the use of an
automatic heat regulator 81
TO FACE PAGE
A corner in Walter Russell’s kitchenette 100
TO FACE PAGE
When there is a cellar used for the laundry, the ice-maker coils
can be set down there with ease and simplicity 106
Nor cold nor heat can get beyond these fortifications 109
She is cool even in summer with moving air 129
Devices designed by the author for keeping cutlery in cutting
form 158
Another device designed by the author for keeping cutlery in
cutting form 160
TO FACE PAGE
Showing the meat-chopping table, range 202
A member of the kitchen rotary club at work on cake-mixing 231
TO FACE PAGE
An ideal kitchen with linotile floor, built-in steel kitchen
cabinet units and cook’s table, with pot hanger comfort 236
TO FACE PAGE
A steel unit kitchen cabinet flanked by broom and duster closets 244
The screen which rolls up is a comfort as well as a safe and sure
insect ostracizer 275
Double hung or ordinary sliding window treatment with
weatherstrips obviates draughts, dust and noise--saves coal! 295
A method of heating water by means of a faucet attachment 325
Detach plug from iron as well as from socket if you want your
home intact 382
She has prepared the way for a nice little fire 383
CHEATING THE JUNK-PILE
Cheating The Junk-Pile
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCING YOU TO ELECTRICITY
What’s a watt? This is not a comic opera refrain, but a question asked
so many times that it is typical of the lack of knowledge people have
to-day of the force which they are using constantly in their own homes
and others.
We have lived to see women go to automobile schools and learn the
working of the car which is theirs to drive. But as yet there seems to
be no course even in the domestic science school which gives the
household engineer an inkling of what is to be her mechanical field in
the realm of electricity or ordinary mechanical construction. We hope
this will come.
For have you ever stopped to think that the housekeeper to-day presides
over an extensive electric installation? Even if she has but a telephone
and an electric bell in the house, there is much that happens that ought
to be familiar to her.
But people to-day have much more than these few things; they have at
least three or four of the following: ironing machine, washing machine,
vacuum cleaner, telephone, warming pad, electric lights, toaster,
electric piano, sewing machine, curling iron, electric range, electric
iron, etc., yet the underlying principles and vocabulary are still as
Sanskrit to the majority of users.
This article is but to make simple and comfortable electric
terminologies and we will use this for an excuse to get at a few
electrical misusages. It is to make electricity familiar rather than a
stranger to the user. Nobody knows what electricity is, so fortunately,
we don’t have to stop and define it. All that we know is that it acts in
certain definite ways.
We get electricity from the battery and from the generator (dynamo). The
battery consists of celled containers which come under the heads of dry
and wet batteries in so far as they contain liquid or solid (wet)
ingredients, through which the electricity is generated and passed out
by means of wires. In short the battery produces electricity by means of
chemicals. The primary battery produces electricity and the storage
battery stores it in the form of chemical energy. It is useless for
purveying very much electrical power as there never can be enough
pressure (voltage) to send along the electricity to do big jobs, unless
hundreds of cells connected in a certain way were used, which would be a
foolish waste of material and time, etc.
In order to obviate such manufacturing the generator or dynamo is used
and electricity is made in this way by induction. In other words, we
make it by letting a coil of wire (or several coils) be revolved by
steam or water power (usually) as it cuts through the area of magnetism
(field) of a giant magnet something like those we used when we were
children. This coil catches the electricity and it is led off by wires
wherever we want it to perform. The coil on the spindle is called the
armature, where the wire is attached to lead off the electricity from
the armature are contact-pieces, and the plates which make the contact
with the contact pieces and to which are attached the wires of the
out-going electric circuit are called the brushes. There is much more to
say, but not in this article. If you are interested we refer you to
Charles R. Gibson’s “Romance of Electricity” for simple electrical
explanations.
The motor with a few mechanical changes is the reverse of the dynamo; it
works by electricity and changes it into mechanical power to work our
washing machines, etc. There are on the market A. C., D. C., and
Universal motors. These you will understand after the next section which
takes up A. C. and D. C. electricity.
“Madam, do you use A. C. or D. C.?” asks the man selling you a washing
machine. Most decent folks are quite at sea at this seemingly geographic
question, and yet after all it is the most complicated simple thing in
the world. D. C. doesn’t mean District of Columbia; it simply means
Direct Current. And A. C. means Alternating Current. And on these two
kinds hang all the wires of electric profits.
Direct Current or D. C. is a current that runs in one direction over the
wire like water through a pipe. It is simple to visualize, even if
electricity does flow 163,000 miles per second. But alternating current
(A. C.) is electricity which alternates and goes back and forth,
generally. Even though it goes back and forth in waves of tremendous
rapidity, you can see that there must be a time in this period when the
electricity is for an infinitesimal space of time at low power, and
another infinitesimal space of time at high. In order to keep the supply
even and steady, two and sometimes three coils of wire are used in the
generator to catch the electricity so that there is scant opportunity
for the electric supply to be anything but even, for when one coil is up
the other is down and thus they even up the strength of the current.
So when your salesman asks you when you buy a motor, “If you have A. C.
or D. C. electricity” and you say A. C. he may go on and say, “How many
phase?” Then you should find out the answer from your lighting company.
He then may ask you how many cycles, which when translated means the
electric period it takes for the alternating current to flow back and
forth.
Now dynamos for D. C. and A. C. electricity vary slightly, but that need
not trouble _us_.
The reason for two kinds of electricity at all is that each, though
obeying the larger laws, has its own peculiar habits and good points.
For example, alternating current can be carried long distances at high
pressure (high voltage) and side-tracked by a transformer to a little
home and the pressure very simply reduced. In other cases the pressure
can be very simply increased. Therefore in country districts one is very
prone to see A. C. in vogue.
The same amount of current, whether D. C. or A. C., is used for
lighting, etc.
A. C. is not used for electro-plating, etc., or for storage batteries.
This is a good point to remember if you have storage batteries to supply
for bells, etc., and your current is A. C. You will have to have your
batteries charged from a plant which makes D. C. or install a small
“converter.” If you attempt to use the A. C. you will burn out your
plates.
But how is electricity measured? How, in other words, do we know how
much we use and how can we test our bills? The following paradigm will
give the electric measures translated into more familiar terms of water
measurement:
Volt Pressure
Ampere Rate of flow of current per second
Watt Fraction of horsepower (H.P.)
Kilowatt (1000 watts) 1¹⁄₃ H.P.
Resistance Friction (as water resists the sides of a
pipe.)
Ohms (the unit of Friction (as water resists the sides of a
measuring resistance). pipe).
The volt takes its name from Volta, an Italian scientist; the ampere
from a Frenchman, the ohm from a German, the watt from an Englishman. We
hear most about volts and watts. Voltage is found by multiplying the
ohms by the amperes. The volt is the pressure that makes electricity
flow through the wire, and the friction of resistance to its flow is
measured by the ohm.
The amount of work a given number of amperes will do at a certain
voltage (pressure) is known as watts.
So if by chance you ever need formulæ here is a little one for your card
catalogue:
Ohms×amperes=volts.
Volts÷ohm=ampere.
Volts×ampere=watts.
1 Kilowatt=1000 watts.
1000 watts=1¹⁄₃ H. P.
The next thing which is necessary for the householder to know is how to
compute costs of electrical usage.
The amount of electric power used, for example, by the electric light is
measured in watts. Look on any incandescent bulb and you will see
thereon the number of watts--usually around 50 or 60.
In order to know how many watts a light consumes, divide the number of
watts it consumes by 1000 to reduce it to a something of a kilowatt.
Then multiply this result by the number of hours the lamp has been lit
by the kilowatt to get the kilowatt hour of electricity. The kilowatt
hour, of course, multiplied by the rate per kilowatt hour in your
locality will give you the cost. The rate is always figured on the
kilowatt hour.
Watt÷1000=kilowatts.
Kilowatt×hours=kilowatt hours.
Kilowatt hours×rate=cost.
Probably it would be a good thing to know how to read the meter, which
generally consists of four little dials which are read from right to
left. The first dial measures the tens, the second the hundreds, the
third the thousands, the fourth the ten thousands. Therefore
if the hand in the left has passed 9, that would stand for 9000
In 2nd dial nearest to 1 that would stand for 100
In 3rd dial nearest to 2, that would stand for 20
In 4th dial nearest to 1, that would stand for 1
----
9121
The total is 9121 kilowatt hours and this multiplied by the rate (say
ten cents) as it is in some places, would mean that the bill for this
consumption would be $92.2. Now, knowing from your last month’s bill
that the reading of the meter then was 82000--by subtracting you find
that the actual current consumed was 921 K. W. hours, which multiplied
by rate (say ten cents) gives you $92.10 as your bill.
To quote from an article in this series on electric ranges will give you
an idea as to how to buy in accordance with voltage and how the cost is
reckoned in watts:
“It is necessary when ordering a range to give the voltage of your
electricity supply. The stoves are usually prepared for 110-220, 110
volts with two wire service from the street or 110-220 volts with three
wire service. In some stoves the cut-out box is built on the range
directly back of the switches. This, then, can be easily opened if
anything happens. In the stock stove there is made an extra charge for
voltage exceeding 220 or less than 110, because alterations have to be
made.
According to the size of heating elements in the stove, etc., the
wattage runs from 10,000 watts or 10 kilowatts, which is the same thing,
to about 2500 watts, or 2¹⁄₂ kilowatts on a small three-heating-unit
range. This gives its total capacity if everything goes at once. The
number of watts used, multiplied by our local rate, say four cents,
gives the cost per kilowatt hour, which in this case would be 40 cents
per hour.
Have you ever wondered how electricity changes from current to heat?
Have you ever wondered how we can cook, and iron, and warm a room by it?
It is due to electricity’s resistance, which is measured in ohms. It is
resistance which is turned into heat. The process of overcoming
resistance results in throwing off heat. It is quite familiar.
Did you ever rub a piece of wood in the palm of your hand for a little
while and feel the heat given off? We call it friction, but it is really
the giving off of heat due to expenditure of mechanical energy.
The same thing happens with the electricity. This electricity which
travels at the speed of 163,000 miles a second, when it comes into
frictional relation with its conductor pushes aside the molecules of the
metal, and here the mechanical energy is magically transformed into
heat.
SOME TECHNICAL TERMS
When we hear short-circuit mentioned, what does it mean to us? Well, it
should mean that the path of the electricity (electric circuit) has been
suddenly shortened, the electricity has escaped through the ground or
over another conductor.
Insulation is the covering by which the escape of electricity through
the wire is made impossible. Always see to it that the insulation is in
perfect condition.
All wires must be insulated. In damp places rubber covered wire must be
used.
Wires must always be protected with porcelain tubes passing through
partition walls, girders, and where they pass over pipes, and other
wires, etc.
Incandescent lights are merely globes with a vacuum in which a filament
of tungsten or some other highly resistant material meets the electric
current and glows through its very resistant power.
The switch is merely a device to open and close the path of electricity.
The socket is the termination of two wires from the generator or
battery, into which the bulb of the light is put and other connections
made.
You will notice two wires on every electric connection. This is to make
a complete electric circuit (path) to and from the points where it is
used.
The outlet is the opening where the socket can be placed. The more
outlets you have in your home before building the better off you will be
forever and ever. A convenient outlet (sometimes called a baseboard or
wall receptacle) is simply a place for conveniently connecting electric
appliances to your electric current.
Fuses are things we hear much about. They are the stop-gaps really
between danger and safety and though they make a splutter when they
“blow out” it is right that they should. Briefly, the fuse is a bit of
lead or other metal with a low melting point so placed that when the
circuit gets overloaded for any reason the metal will melt and open the
circuit, stopping the electricity and preventing danger.
When the fuse burns, we call that a blow-out, but this burning has saved
us from dangerous currents.
Every house should be well supplied with fuses, and as soon as they are
blown out, restored. Your superintendent or electrician will show you
how to restore the oft blown-out fuse. So it is wise to keep a few new
fuses in one’s home.
The fuse will blow out sometimes if you allow a bit of metal from a lamp
shade to cavort too intimately with the excitable parts of your
incandescent bulb; then the wire gets overloaded and the tin or lead
conductor on the fuse melts and prevents the greater current doing any
damage. It’s simple, isn’t it? The fuses come in convenient shape.
Sometimes it is wise to use a rubber glove when putting them in. We have
seen a sparking do a bit of burning.
Electricity is not dangerous when properly employed. It is dangerous
when you use it wrongly. If you put your hand under a boiling hot stream
of water you will get burnt. If you put your hand on a red hot stove you
will get burnt; if you burn a fire in a wooden box you will have more
fire than you bargained for; if you inhale gas you will die. Such is the
case with electricity, which is a most controllable force if you are not
ignorant as to how to use it. However, if you will put a hot curling
iron on your table without turning off your current you will have a cozy
little fire start up; so you would if you laid down a cigaret without
putting it out. Most accidents occur simply because of such ridiculous
carelessness. Mr. A. M. Grant of the Manhattan Electrical Supply Company
said a wise thing in reference to this subject: “Before connecting any
appliance to your lamp socket turn out the light in your bulb; then you
know that your current is off. Never attach anything to anything
electrical until the current is off and never go away and leave an
appliance with the electricity turned on.”
More specifically, in using any electric appliance non-continuously,
shut off the current immediately upon stopping. Do not only pull out the
plug but turn off the electricity.
In using the flat-iron detach the plug at the iron as well as turn off
the current from the socket.
Remove the iron from the goods and detach the plug when called away from
the ironing board.
Never pull the plug out by the cord; always grip it at the spring.
Always replace at once frayed wires--as the ends often collide and make
blow-outs.
Don’t leave your electric curling iron on the table cloth and do
something else about the room without first turning off the current--or
you’ll have a cute little fire.
Care must be taken in using too many cluster plugs, because the electric
circuit (path) may be overloaded. That is, too much electricity drawn
over the wire which is made for a certain load. Then your fuse will blow
out. Extra appliances should be attached to different circuits. This a
good electrician will regulate for you. Too much wattage (horsepower)
over one circuit is like forcing any machinery to the breaking point. A
percolator, toaster and a lamp are too heavy a load for the ordinary
circuit. Connect at the same place only those appliances that are of low
wattage.
Some firms have now made percolators and water heaters with fuse-nut or
safety fuse devices which melt if overloaded or allowed to heat up
without any liquid in them to be heated. You must not let a percolator
“perc” without any water in it. People complain more about good
percolators because their heating element burns out, either because
they do this or because they have it connected up with too many other
devices. Even if you do the right thing in these respects, don’t forget
to disconnect the electricity by pulling out the plug.
Don’t get your electricity heating pad wet. In fact, don’t wet any
electric appliance carelessly or you may have a short circuit.
Remember that electricity, magic as it is, can burn as well as any
flame, so don’t let your curtains blow against a red hot electric
radiator and then blame it on the electricity which after all is your
servant if you make it so by right treatment.
Always ask your salesman to what the device purchased should be
attached. Some things are designed for the ordinary lamp socket, and
others need different connections.
Many electric appliances have the pilot light to tell you whether your
electric current is on or off. Yet it is wise to be your own pilot and
remember what you are doing.
Do not leave your electrical installation entirely to your architect.
Watch what is happening. Remember you need as many outlets as you
possibly can afford; the more you have the better lighting you can have,
the better electric comforts you can have. If you have few outlets you
are very prone to overload your circuit, and in the future as more
electric devices come into being you will have to pass them up. Outlets
consume no electricity but are simply entrances where electricity can be
located as soon as the appliance is connected up with it and turned on.
Above all, have your electric installation put in by the most
responsible and experienced people you can get to do it.
When you buy appliances always ask what voltage they require and find
out what your own voltage is before you buy; also find out whether you
have D. C. or A. C., and if A. C. find out what phase and cycle. These
things will save you time and money and free you from any apprehension
of calamity from the use of electricity.
There is much left unsaid in this chapter. It would take a book by
itself to say everything.