The idol, the inner walls of the temple, the floor, the altar, were

always wet with the most precious fluid on earth. In the bowl human

hearts smouldered. Black-robed wizards, their faces painted black with

white rings about eyes and mouth, their hair matted with blood, their

faces raw from constant self-torture, forever flitted to and fro,

keeping watch by night and day, ready always for the victims whom that

dreadful superstition was always ready to bring. The supply of victims

was drawn from prisoners taken in war, and from slaves paid as tribute

by conquered tribes; and it took a vast supply. Sometimes as many as

five hundred were sacrificed on one altar on one great day. They were

stretched naked upon the sacrificial stone, and butchered in a manner

too horrible to be described here. Their palpitating hearts were offered

to the idol, and then thrown into the great stone bowl; while the bodies

were kicked down the long stone stairway to the bottom of the great

mound, where they were seized upon by the eager crowd. The Mexicans were

not cannibals regularly and as a matter of taste; but they devoured

these bodies as part of their grim religion.

It is too revolting to go more into detail concerning these rites.

Enough has been said to give some idea of the moral barrier encountered

by the Spanish missionaries when they came to such blood-thirsty savages

with a gospel which teaches love and the universal brotherhood of man.

Such a creed was as unintelligible to the Indian as white blackness

would be to us; and the struggle to make him understand was one of the

most enormous and apparently hopeless ever undertaken by human teachers.

Before the missionaries could make these savages even listen to--much

less understand--Christianity, they had the dangerous task of proving

this paganism worthless. The Indian believed absolutely in the power of

his gory stone-god. If he should neglect his idol, he felt sure the idol

would punish and destroy him; and of course he would not believe

anything that could be told him to the contrary. The missionary had not

only to say, "Your idol is worthless; he cannot hurt anybody; he is only

a stone, and if you kick him he cannot punish you," but he had to prove

it. No Indian was going to be so foolhardy as to try the experiment, and

the new teacher had to do it in person. Of course he could not even do

that at first; for if he had begun his missionary work by offering any

indignity to one of those ugly gods of porphyry, its "priests" would

have slain him on the spot. But when the Indians saw at last that the

missionary was not struck down by some supernatural power for speaking

against their gods, there was one step gained. By degrees he could touch

the idol, and they saw that he was still unharmed. At last he overturned

and broke the cruel images; and the breathless and terrified worshippers

began to distrust and despise the cowardly divinities they had played

the slave to, but whom a stranger could insult and abuse with impunity.

It was only by this rude logic, which the debased savages could

understand, that the Spanish missionaries proved to the Indians that

human sacrifice was a human mistake and not the will of "Those Above."

It was a wonderful achievement, just the uprooting of this one, but

worst, custom of the Indian religion,--a custom strengthened by

centuries of constant practice. But the Spanish apostles were equal to

the task; and the infinite faith and zeal and patience which finally

abolished human sacrifice in Mexico, led gradually on, step by step, to

the final conversion of a continent and a half of savages to

Christianity.

VII.

THE CHURCH-BUILDERS IN NEW MEXICO.

To give even a skeleton of Spanish missionary work in the two Americas

would fill several volumes. The most that can be done here is to take a

sample leaf from that fascinating but formidable record; and for that I

shall outline something of what was done in an area particularly

interesting to us,--the single province of New Mexico. There were many

fields which presented even greater obstacles, and cost more lives of

uncomplaining martyrs and more generations of discouraging toil; but it

is safe to take a modest example, as well as one which so much concerns

our own national history.

New Mexico and Arizona--the real wonderland of the United States--were

discovered in 1539, as you know, by that Spanish missionary whom every

young American should remember with honor,--Fray Marcos, of Nizza. You

have had glimpses, too, of the achievements of Fray Ramirez, Fray

Padilla, and other missionaries in that forbidding land, and have gained

some idea of the hardships which were common to all their brethren; for

the wonderful journeys, the lonely self-sacrifice, the gentle zeal, and

too often the cruel deaths of these men were not exceptions, but fair

types of what the apostle to the Southwest must expect.

There have been missionaries elsewhere whose flocks were as long

ungrateful and murderous, but few if any who were more out of the world.

New Mexico has been for three hundred and fifty years, and is to-day,

largely a wilderness, threaded with a few slender oases. To people of

the Eastern States a desert seems very far off; but there are hundreds

of thousands of square miles in our own Southwest to this day where the

traveller is very likely to die of thirst, and where poor wretches every

year do perish by that most awful of deaths. Even now there is no

trouble in finding hardship and danger in New Mexico; and once it was

one of the cruellest wildernesses conceivable. Scarce a decade has gone

by since an end was put to the Indian wars and harassments, which had

lasted continuously for more than three centuries. When Spanish colonist

or Spanish missionary turned his back on Old Mexico to traverse the

thousand-mile, roadless desert to New Mexico, he took his life in his

hands; and every day in that savage province he was in equal danger. If

he escaped death by thirst or starvation by the way, if the party was

not wiped out by the merciless Apache, then he settled in the wilderness

as far from any other home of white men as Chicago is from Boston. If a

missionary, he was generally alone with a flock of hundreds of cruel

savages; if a soldier or a farmer, he had from two hundred to fifteen

hundred friends in an area as big as New England, New York,

Pennsylvania, and Ohio combined, in the very midst of a hundred thousand

swarthy foes whose war-whoop he was likely to hear at any moment, and

never had long chance to forget. He came poor, and that niggard land

never made him rich. Even in the beginning of this century, when some

began to have large flocks of sheep, they were often left penniless by

one night's raid of Apaches or Navajos.

Such was New Mexico when the missionaries came, and very nearly such it

remained for more than three hundred years. If the most enlightened and

hopeful mind in the Old World could have looked across to that arid

land, it would never have dreamed that soon the desert was to be dotted

with churches,--and not little log or mud chapels, but massive stone

masonries whose ruins stand to-day, the noblest in our North America.

But so it was; neither wilderness nor savage could balk that great zeal.

The first church in what is now the United States was founded in St.

Augustine, Fla., by Fray Francisco de Pareja in 1560,--but there were

many Spanish churches in America a half century earlier yet. The several

priests whom Coronado brought to New Mexico in 1540 did brave missionary

work, but were soon killed by the Indians. The first church in New

Mexico and the second in the United States was founded in September,

1598, by the ten missionaries who accompanied Juan de Onate, the

colonizer. It was a small chapel at San Gabriel de los Espanoles (now

Chamita). San Gabriel was deserted in 1605, when Onate founded Santa Fe,

though it is probable that the chapel was still occasionally used. In

time, however, it fell into decay. As late as 1680 the ruins of this

honorable old church were still visible; but now they are quite

indistinguishable. One of the first things after establishing the new

town of Santa Fe was of course to build a church,--and here, by about

1606, was reared the third church in the United States. It did not long

meet the growing requirements of the colony; and in 1622 Fray Alonzo de

Benavides, the historian, laid the foundations of the parish church of

Santa Fe, which was finished in 1627. The church of San Miguel in the

same old city was built after 1636. Its original walls are still

standing, and form part of a church which is used to-day. It was partly

destroyed in the Pueblo rebellion of 1680, and was restored in 1710. The

new cathedral of Santa Fe is built over the remnants of the still more

ancient parish church.

In 1617--three years before Plymouth Rock--there were already _eleven_

churches in use in New Mexico. Santa Fe was the only Spanish town; but

there were also churches at the dangerous Indian pueblos of Galisteo and

Pecos, two at Jemez (nearly one hundred miles west of Santa Fe, and in

an appalling wilderness), Taos (as far north), San Yldefonso, Santa

Clara, Sandia, San Felipe, and Santo Domingo. It was a wonderful

achievement for each lonely missionary--for they had neither civil nor

military assistance in their parishes--so soon to have induced his

barbarous flock to build a big stone church, and worship there the new

white God. The churches in the two Jemez pueblos had to be abandoned

about 1622 on account of incessant harassment by the Navajos, who from

time immemorial had ravaged that section, but were occupied again in

1626. The Spaniards were confined by the necessities of the desert, so

far as home-making went, to the valley of the Rio Grande, which runs

about north and south through the middle of New Mexico. But their

missionaries were under no such limitation. Where the colonists could

not exist, _they_ could pray and teach; and very soon they began to

penetrate the deserts which stretch far on either side from that narrow

ribbon of colonizable land. At Zuni, far west of the river and three

hundred miles from Santa Fe, the missionaries had established themselves

as early as 1629. Soon they had six churches in six of the "Seven Cities

of Cibola" (the Zuni towns), of which the one at Chyanahue is still

beautifully preserved; and in the same period they had taken foothold

two hundred miles deeper yet in the desert, and built three churches

among the wondrous cliff-towns of Moqui.

Down the Rio Grande there was similar activity. At the ancient pueblo of

San Antonio de Senecu, now nearly obliterated, a church was founded in

1629 by Fray Antonio de Arteaga; and the same brave man, in the same

year, founded another at the pueblo of Nuestra Senora del Socorro,--now

the American town of Socorro. The church in the pueblo of Picuries, far

in the northern mountains, was built before 1632, for in that year Fray

Ascencion de Zarate was buried in it. The church at Isleta, about in the

centre of New Mexico, was built before 1635. A few miles above Glorieta,

one can see from the windows of a train on the Santa Fe route a large

and impressive adobe ruin, whose fine walls dream away in that enchanted

sunshine. It is the old church of the pueblo of Pecos; and those walls

were reared two hundred and seventy-five years ago. The pueblo, once the

largest in New Mexico, was deserted in 1840; and its great quadrangle of

many-storied Indian houses is in utter ruin; but above their gray mounds

still tower the walls of the old church which was built before there was

a Saxon in New England. You see the "mud brick," as some contemptuously

call the adobe, is not such a contemptible thing, even for braving the

storms of centuries. There was a church at the pueblo of Nambe by 1642.

In 1662 Fray Garcia de San Francisco founded a church at El Paso del

Norte, on the present boundary-line between Mexico and the United

States,--a dangerous frontier mission, hundreds of miles alike from the

Spanish settlements in Old and New Mexico.

The missionaries also crossed the mountains east of the Rio Grande, and

established missions among the Pueblos who dwelt in the edge of the

great plains. Fray Geronimo de la Llana founded the noble church at

Cuaray about 1642; and soon after came those at Abo, Tenabo, and Tabira

(better, though incorrectly, known now as The Gran Quivira). The

churches at Cuaray, Abo, and Tabira are the grandest ruins in the United

States, and much finer than many ruins which Americans go abroad to see.

The second and larger church at Tabira was built between 1660 and 1670;

and at about the same time and in the same region--though many thirsty

miles away--the churches at Tajique[16] and Chilili. Acoma, as you know,

had a permanent missionary by 1629; and he built a church. Besides all

these, the pueblos of Zia, Santa Ana, Tesuque, Pojoaque, San Juan, San

Marcos, San Lazaro, San Cristobal, Alameda, Santa Cruz, and Cochiti had

each a church by 1680. That shows something of the thoroughness of

Spanish missionary work. A century before our nation was born, the

Spanish had built in one of our Territories half a hundred permanent

churches, nearly all of stone, and nearly all for the express benefit of

the Indians. That is a missionary record which has never been equalled

elsewhere in the United States even to this day; and in all our country

we had not built by that time so many churches for ourselves.

A glimpse at the life of the missionary to New Mexico in the days before

there was an English-speaking preacher in the whole western hemisphere

is strangely fascinating to all who love that lonely heroism which does

not need applause or companionship to keep it alive. To be brave in

battle or any similar excitement is a very easy thing. But to be a hero

alone and unseen, amid not only danger but every hardship and

discouragement, is quite another matter.

The missionary to New Mexico had of course to come first from Old

Mexico,--or, before that, from Spain. Some of these quiet, gray-robed

men had already seen such wanderings and such dangers as even the

Stanleys of nowadays do not know. They had to furnish their own

vestments and church furniture, and to pay for their own transportation

from Mexico to New Mexico,--for very early a "line" of semi-annual armed

expeditions across the bitter intervening wilderness was arranged. The

fare was $266, which made serious havoc with the good man's salary of

$150 a year (at which figure the salaries remained up to 1665, when they

were raised to $330, payable every three years). It was not much like a

call to a fashionable pulpit in these times. Out of this meagre

pay--which was all the synod itself could afford to give him--he had to

pay all the expenses of himself and his church.

Arriving, after a perilous trip, in perilous New Mexico,--and the

journey and the Territory were still dangerous in the present

generation,--the missionary proceeded first to Santa Fe. His superior

there soon assigned him a parish; and turning his back on the one little

colony of his countrymen, the fray trudged on foot fifty, one hundred,

or three hundred miles, as the case might be, to his new and unknown

post. Sometimes an escort of three or four Spanish soldiers accompanied

him; but often he made that toilsome and perilous walk alone. His new

parishioners received him sometimes with a storm of arrows, and

sometimes in sullen silence. He could not speak to them, nor they to

him; and the very first thing he had to do was to learn from such

unwilling teachers their strange tongue,--a language much more difficult

to acquire than Latin, Greek, French, or German. Entirely alone among

them, he had to depend upon himself and upon the untender mercies of his

flock for life and all its necessities. If they decided to kill him,

there was no possibility of resistance. If they refused him food, he

must starve. If he became sick or crippled, there were no nurses or

doctors for him except these treacherous savages. I do not think there

was ever in history a picture of more absolute loneliness and

helplessness and hopelessness than the lives of these unheard-of

martyrs; and as for mere danger, no man ever faced greater.

The provision made for the support of the missionaries was very simple.

Besides the small salary paid him by the synod, the pastor must receive

some help from his parish. This was a moral as well as a material

necessity. That interest partly depends on personal giving, is a

principle recognized in all churches. So at once the Spanish laws

commanded from the Pueblos the same contribution to the church as Moses

himself established. Each Indian family was required to give the tithe

and the first fruits to the church, just as they had always given them

to their pagan cacique. This was no burden to the Indians, and it

supported the priest in a very humble way. Of course the Indians did

_not_ give a tithe; at first they gave just as little as they could. The

"father's" food was their corn, beans, and squashes, with only a little

meat rarely from their hunts,--for it was a long time before there were

flocks of cattle or sheep to draw from. He also depended on his

unreliable congregation for help in cultivating his little plot of

ground, for wood to keep him from freezing in those high altitudes, and

even for water,--since there were no waterworks nor even wells, and all

water had to be brought considerable distances in jars. Dependent wholly

upon such suspicious, jealous, treacherous helpers, the good man often

suffered greatly from hunger and cold. There were no stores, of course,

and if he could not get food from the Indians he must starve. Wood was

in some cases twenty miles distant, as it is from Isleta to-day. His

labors also were not small. He must not only convert these utter pagans

to Christianity, but teach them to read and write, to farm by better

methods, and, in general, to give up their barbarism for civilization.

How difficult it was to do this even the statesman of to-day can hardly

measure; but what was the price in blood is simple to be understood. It

was not the killing now and then of one of these noble men by his

ungrateful flock,--it was almost a habit. It was not the sin of one or

two towns. The pueblos of Taos, Picuries, San Yldefonso, Nambe,

Pojoaque, Tesuque, Pecos, Galisteo, San Marcos, Santo Domingo, Cochiti,

San Felipe, Puaray, Jemez, Acoma, Halona, Hauicu, Ahuatui, Mishongenivi,

and Oraibe--twenty different towns--at one time or another murdered

their respective missionaries. Some towns repeated the crime several

times. Up to the year 1700, _forty_ of these quiet heroes in gray had

been slain by the Indians in New Mexico,--two by the Apaches, but all

the rest by their own flocks. Of these, one was poisoned; the others

died bloody and awful deaths. Even in the last century several

missionaries were killed by secret poison,--an evil art in which the

Indians were and are remarkably adept; and when the missionary had been

killed, the Indians burned the church.

One very important feature must not be lost sight of. Not only did these

Spanish teachers achieve a missionary work unparalleled elsewhere by

others, but they made a wonderful mark on the world's knowledge. Among

them were some of the most important historians America has had; and

they were among the foremost scholars in every intellectual line,

particularly in the study of languages. They were not merely

chroniclers, but students of native antiquities, arts, and

customs,--such historians, in fact, as are paralleled only by those

great classic writers, Herodotus and Strabo. In the long and eminent

list of Spanish missionary authors were such men as Torquemada,

Sahagun, Motolinia, Mendieta, and many others; and their huge volumes

are among the greatest and most indispensable helps we have to a study

of the real history of America.

FOOTNOTES:

[16] Pronounced Tah-_hee_-ky.

VIII.

ALVARADO'S LEAP.

If the reader should ever go to the City of Mexico,--as I hope he may,

for that ancient town, which was old and populous when Columbus was

born, is alive with romantic interest,--he will have pointed out to him,

on the Rivera de San Cosme, the historic spot still known as El Salto de

Alvarado. It is now a broad, civilized street, with horse-cars running,

with handsome buildings, with quaint, contented folk sauntering to and

fro, and with little outwardly to recall the terrors of that cruellest

night in the history of America,--the _Noche Triste_.

The leap of Alvarado is among the famous deeds in history, and the

leaper was a striking figure in the pioneering of the New World. In the

first great conquest he bore himself gallantly, and the story of his

exploits then and thereafter would make a fascinating romance. A tall,

handsome man, with yellow locks and ruddy face, young, impulsive, and

generous, a brilliant soldier and charming comrade, he was a general

favorite with Spaniard and Indian alike. Though for some reason not

fully liked by Cortez, he was the conqueror's right-hand man, and

throughout the conquest of Mexico had generally the post of greatest

danger. He was a college man, and wrote a large, bold hand,--none too

common an accomplishment in those days, you will remember,--and signed a

beautiful autograph. He was not a great leader of men like Cortez,--his

valor sometimes ran away with his prudence; but as a field-officer he

was as dashing and brilliant as could be found.

Captain Pedro de Alvarado was a native of Seville, and came to the New

World in his young manhood, soon winning some recognition in Cuba. In

1518 he accompanied Grijalva in the voyage which discovered Mexico, and

carried back to Cuba the few treasures they had collected. In the

following year, when Cortez sailed to the conquest of the new and

wonderful land, Alvarado accompanied him as his lieutenant. In all the

startling feats of that romantic career he played a conspicuous part. In

the crisis when it became necessary to seize the treacherous Moctezuma,

Alvarado was active and prominent. He had much to do with Moctezuma

during the latter's detention as a hostage; and his frankness made him a

great favorite with the captive war-chief. He was left in command of the

little garrison at Mexico when Cortez marched off on his audacious but

successful expedition against Narvaez, and discharged that responsible

duty well. Before Cortez got back, came the symptoms of an Indian

uprising,--the famous war-dance. Alvarado was alone, and had to meet the

crisis on his own responsibility. But he was equal to the emergency. He

understood the murderous meaning of this "ghost-dance," as every

Indian-fighter does, and the way to meet it. In his unsuccessful attempt

to capture the wizards who were stirring up the populace to massacre the

strangers, Alvarado was severely wounded. But he bore his part in the

desperate resistance to the Indian assaults, in which nearly every

Spaniard was wounded. In the great fighting to hold their adobe

stronghold, and the wild sorties to force back the flood of savages, the

golden-haired lieutenant was always a prominent figure. When Cortez, who

had now returned with his reinforcements, saw that Mexico was untenable

and that their only salvation was in retreat from the lake city to the

mainland, the post of honor fell to Alvarado. There were twelve hundred

Spaniards and two thousand Tlaxcaltecan allies, and this force was

divided into three commands. The vanguard was led by Juan Velasquez, the

second division by Cortez, the third, upon which it was expected the

brunt of pursuit would fall, by Alvarado.

All was quiet when the Spaniards crept from their refuge to try to

escape along the dyke.

It was a rainy night, and intensely dark; and with their horses' hoofs

and little cannon muffled, the Spaniards moved as quietly as possible

along the narrow bank, which stretched like a tongue from the island

city to the mainland.

[Illustration: CHURCH, PUEBLO OF ISLETA.

_See page 163._]

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