By Fanny M. Johnson.
[Illustration: CONN. RIVER RAILROAD STATION.]
On a sweeping curve of the Connecticut river, about twelve miles north
of the Massachusetts and Connecticut boundary line, is the modern
manufacturing city of Holyoke, with a present population of 30,000. It
is the most extensive paper making city in the world, and the
manufacture of paper is but one of many enterprises. The ceaseless
water-power of the great river turns the wheels of numerous industries
which, within the third of a century, have been located here and have
transformed a sparsely settled rural parish into a busy and populous
city.
Holyoke is a New England growth. It does not resemble the smoky cities
of the iron regions, nor the languid towns of the South. The swift,
powerful current of water does its work without confusion, smoke or
waste. Pure breezes sweep along the valley through the mountain rifts,
and the mountains serve as barriers to ward off heavy gales and
destructive tempests. The slope of the land toward the river gives
opportunity for healthful drainage and the vicinity of mountain springs
and reservoirs supplies a great requisite for a thickly settled city.
[Illustration: THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH.]
The impression which Holyoke makes upon its visitors is of modern thrift
and growth. Travellers by railway who enter the city from the north,
look with interest at the great dam, crossing the river from the Holyoke
to the South Hadley Falls shore. Rounding the curve, the large brick
buildings, spires and chimneys of the city come suddenly into view, the
tall tower of the granite city hall rising high above the rest. The
buildings are modern in structure and architecture. Little is found here
that bears the moss and rime of age.
Less than forty years ago, when the railroad was still a novelty in the
Connecticut Valley, a party of capitalists came to view the water-power
along the rocky bed of the Connecticut River at the point called the
Great Rapids, or Falls of South Hadley, which extended over a mile and
a half and had a total fall of 60 feet. The volume of water was gauged
and found to aggregate a power equal to 30,000 horse-power. This was in
1847. The next Legislature was petitioned by Thomas H. Perkins, Geo.
W. Lyman, Edmund Dwight and others for an act of incorporation as the
Hadley Falls Company, "for the purpose of constructing and maintaining
a dam across the Connecticut River, and one or more locks and canals
in connection with said dam; and of creating a water power to be used
by the said corporation for manufacturing articles from cotton, wood,
iron, wool and other materials, and to be sold to other persons and
corporations, to be used for manufacturing or mechanical purposes and
also for the purposes of navigation." The capital stock was fixed
at $4,000.000. The Hadley Falls Company purchased the property and
franchise of the South Hadley Falls Locks and Canal Company, and
extinguished the fishing rights existing above the location of the dam.
In the year 1847, this territory embraced by the river-curve had
fourteen houses, a grist-mill and one little shop. There was also a
small cotton-mill. From the river, the land rises to the westward,
and a mile or more back, on the highway leading from Northampton to
Springfield, were two hamlets of farmhouses. Many of these are still
standing and are all that this very modern city can show as memorials
of a past generation. From the year 1786 the section had been known as
"Ireland or Third Parish of West Springfield." It had its two little
white meeting-houses, Baptist and Congregational, a modest academy of
learning, a country tavern, and its full quota of New England customs,
traditions and ideas. Nine daily stages passed over this highway.
Families moving from one river-town to another usually transported their
goods by the flat-boats on the river.
Many of the homesteads had been in the same family name for generations.
Ely, Chapin, Day, Hall, Rand, Humeston and Street were some of the names
of early settlers handed down with the family acres from father to son,
and their graves crowd the rural cemetery beyond the Baptist Village in
the southern outskirts of Holyoke. The name of Chapin abounded most on
the East side of the river along the fair meadows of "Chicopee Street."
In the first church built there all but eleven of the forty-three
original members bore the name of Chapin.
On the A Vest side of the river the Elys were most numerous. The oldest
house now standing in Holyoke was an Ely homestead. The farm was held in
the family for generations and was the home of Enocn Ely, a
revolutionary soldier. He fought in the war of the Colonies against
Great Britain, and afterwards took a part in the short-lived Shay's
Rebellion to resist the taxes imposed after the war. Party spirit was
hot and high, and in the rout of the insurgents Ely took to the woods
and remained in hiding while the commander of the pursuing party,
gratified his feelings by firing bullets into the front doors of Ely's
house. These old double-doors with the bullet marks showing in them were
replaced by new ones some years ago, but the original doors still exist
in a small dwelling-house on the Plains.
[Illustration: THE DAM AS IT APPEARED IN 1843.]
The last of the Elys to occupy this stout-built old house were four
spinster and bachelor brothers and sisters. After their death the
homestead went to a relative and eventually was bought by its present
occupant, Mr. Horace Brown. Long before this change took place, Whig,
Federal and Tory had gone to their last rest, and they sleep peacefully
together in the old burial-ground overlooking the river; their
differences ended, their feuds forgotten.
When the Hadley Falls Company began to plan the New City, as for a few
years it was called, negotiations were opened with the farmers living
along the river-bend and occupying the lands which the new company
wished to own. Mr. Geo. C. Ewing was the company's agent, and one after
another the land-owners were persuaded to sell their acres. Samuel Ely
was an exception. He held fast to his land property, but some twenty
years later, when the sandy acres had become a valuable possession,
Samuel Ely sold his farm-lands to Messrs. Bowers and Mosher who surveyed
and sold it as building lots and it is now known as Depot Hill. Mr. Ely
retained through life the old farmhouse where he was born and reared and
where he died in 1879.
[Illustration: THE SOLDIERS' MONUMENT.]
In the Summer of 1848, a dam was constructed across the Connecticut
river by the Hadley Falls Company. It was finished on the morning of
Nov. 16, 1848. A great crowd of ten thousand people collected on the
river-bank to witness the filling of the pond and closing of the gates.
At ten o'clock the gates were let down and the pond began to fill. The
massive foundation stones of the bulk-head at the west end began to move
under the great pressure. The water had risen to within two feet of the
top of the dam when the break began at about one hundred feet from the
east end and the structure tipped over and gave way. A massive wall of
water and moving timbers rose high in air, (a sight terrific to remember
by those who saw it), and with a mighty roar and sweep the great
structure went down the stream in ruins.
Great as this disaster was to the Company, there was no yielding to
discouragement. The work of reconstruction was begun at once and a
second dam of improved pattern was built upon the site and so strongly
constructed that it remains a part of the present dam. Eighteen years
later it was improved and strengthened by building a front extension, in
such a manner that the dam now has a sloping front, giving it the form
of a roof, both the old and the new structure being made absolutely
solid. The original cost of the structure in 1849 was $150,000. The cost
of the extension finished in 1870, was $350,000. By that time the town
of Holyoke and its water-power were rapidly realizing the anticipations
of its projectors.
The water of the river is distributed through a series of three canals
aggregating three and a half miles in length, the power being repeatedly
utilized, as after leaving the first level canal, the water flows from
the wheels into the canal of the second level, from the second level
into the third level, and thence to the river, which completes its
perfect curve to the south of the city.
[Illustration: THE HOLYOKE DAM.]
Among the first colonists of the New City were an army of laborers who
came to dig and wall the canals. These settled in shanties and cabins
near the river-bank. When the great factories were built, a corps of
operatives came to work in the mills. As in Lowell, Manchester and other
manufacturing towns, many of the factory-girls came from New England
homes, and were distinguished for their independence and thrift. A
little later, ship-loads of expert weavers were brought from England and
Scotland to work in the cotton-mills. A ship called the "North America"
brought a load of 130 young Scotch people who shipped from Broomielaw
Quay, in April, 1854. They were induced to come by the superior
inducements offered here, and some of the best weavers ever employed in
the mills came from Scotland. Later there was a large immigration from
the Canadas, and from Ireland.
The entire population by the census of 1850 was 3,715. March 14th of
that year the town was incorporated, bearing the name of Holyoke,
Governor Briggs approving the bill.
The name selected was historical, from Mt. Holyoke, christened some two
hundred years before, but its origin was from Elizur Holyoke, one of the
early residents of this section.
The town of Holyoke was formerly a portion of Springfield of which
Elizur Holyoke was among the early settlers, coming from England when a
youth; and his name is identified with its early records. In 1640 he
married Mary Pynchon. the tradition of whose grace and loveliness comes
down with the musty records of the past, and lingers like a bright,
sweet touch of romance among the historical pages of the grim colonial
days.
[Illustration: SECTION OF THE DAM.]
A notable man of his time was Elizur Holyoke, and he was of a committee
chosen to explore and ascertain the precise extent of Springfield, which
then extended to Northampton and Hadley. A pretty legend of the valley
is Dr. J.C. Holland's story, told in most musical verse of the Mountain
Christening.
"On a beautiful morning in June, they say,
Two hundred and twenty years ago."
Captain Holyoke and Captain Thomas with a little company of stanch
followers started out on a survey of the country.
"Holyoke, the gentle and daring, stood
On the Eastern bank, with his trusty four,
And Rowland Thomas, the gallant and good,
Headed the band on the other shore.
The women ran weeping to bid them good-bye,
And sweet Mary Pynchon was there (I guess)
With a sigh in her throat, and a tear in her eye
As Holyoke marched into the wilderness."
The melodious rhyme goes on to describe the journey up the valley and
the night camp, where:
"The great falls roared in their ears all night,
And the sturgeon splashed, and the wild-cat screamed,
And they did not wake till the morning light
Red through the willowy branches streamed."
The story of the naming of Mt. Holyoke is told as follows:
"The morning dawned on the double group,
Facing each other on opposite shores,
Where years ago with a mighty swoop
The waters parted the mountain doors."
"Let us christen the mountains!" said Holyoke in glee,
"Let us christen the mountains!" said Thomas again,
"This mountain for you, and that mountain for me,"
And their trusty fellows responded "Amen!"
Then Holyoke buried his palm in the stream,
And tossed the pure spray toward the mountain brow
And said, while it shone in the sun's fierce beam,
"Fair mountain, thou art Mt. Holyoke now!"
How much of this rhythmic legend is true and how much imaginary is
uncertain; but it is quite probable that in the course of this survey
Holyoke's name was given to the mountain, of which Holyoke city is a
namesake.
[Illustration: THE SECOND CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH.]
The town so originated and named grew gradually until the breaking out
of the civil war, but its most rapid growth has been since 1865. In 1857
the water-power and property were purchased by a company which organized
as the Holyoke Water Power Company, and which has fostered and developed
the natural advantages of the place as a manufacturing centre to a
wonderful degree.
[Illustration: THE CITY HALL.]
In the first twenty years of its existence the town acquired a
population of about 11,000 and a valuation of nearly $10,000,000. In the
sixteen years that have succeeded, the population has almost trebled and
the valuation this year is nearly $16,000,000.
There is not another city in the east that can show such swift and at
the same time substantial growth as Holyoke has enjoyed during the two
decades succeeding the war. In a few years it became the greatest
paper-making centre of the country. It has now twenty-four large
paper-making corporations, one having the largest paper-mill in the
world. A long established cotton mannfacturing company employs one
thousand and three hundred operatives. A company manufacturing worsted
goods employs one thousand persons, the two mammoth thread-mills have
some one thousand names on the pay-rolls. The Unquomonk silk works,
which were destroyed by the great Mill River flood of 1874 were
re-located in this city, where was found a safe, reliable water-power.
There are woolen factories, including a company for manufacturing
imitation seal-skin goods and a large blanket mill. The manufacture of
Blank books and Envelopes, Steam-pumps, Wire, Machinery, Cutlery,
Screws, Fire-hydrants and Steam-boilers, Cement works, Spindles and
Reeds, Fourdrinier wire and Rubber-goods are among the city's greatly
diversified industries. There are extensive brickyards and stone
quarries near at hand and the lumbering business is an important
industry.
[Illustration: OPERA HOUSE.]
The building growth of the city has kept pace with the manufacturing.
Where a few years ago were acres of woodland, swamps or brambly
pastures, are now well-graded streets lined with pleasant houses. Hills
have been leveled, ponds and ravines filled and made into valuable real
estate. From the highlands in the western part of the city, there are
river and mountain views of surpassing beauty. Gradually the building
centre is moving westward and many charming homes have been created on
the suburban streets. The old stage-road which led from Springfield to
Northampton is now a wide, well-graded highway with handsome villas
surrounded by spacious grounds. Here are the fine residences of
Treasurer R.B. Johnson of the Holyoke Savings Bank, G.W. Prentiss of the
wire-mills, Westover, the residence of E.J. Pomeroy, Lawnfield, the
house of R.M. Fairfield, "The Knolls" the fine residence of Mr. C.H.
Heywood, and on the higest point of all is Rus-in-Urbe, the lookout
point of Mr. Foster Wilson. Farther south on the same street are the
residencies of Mr. Timothy Merrick, Donald Mackintosh, Oscar Ely, John
Cleary and others. The residence streets of Ward six are pleasant with
shade trees, blooming gardens and lovely houses. From the most sightly
eminence of the ward, the house of William Skinner of the silk-mill
overlooks the city. A central and pleasant square encloses the home of
W.A. Chase, the agent of the Water Power Company, and houses with all
the appointments of elegance and luxury are owned by Messrs. Whiting,
Dillon, Farr, Metcalf, Mackintosh, W.A. Prentiss Clark, E.W. Chapin,
Ramage, Newton, Corser and many others. Fairmount Square is a new
section just opened for good residences. In the southerly part of the
city is the farm of Congressman Wm. Whiting with its herds of beautiful
Jerseys, and on the Springfield road is the model Brightside farm, the
pet life-project of W.H. Wilkinson, blanket manufacturer. This farm is
also the home of splendid specimens of the Jersey cow. A majority of
the principal streets of Holyoke bear the names that were given them
when the town was first mapped out by its prophetic founders, At first
Holyoke was chiefly a cotton manufacturing town and of the streets laid
out from east to west the names of prominent cotton manufacturing
companies of the state alternated with the names of Massachusetts
counties. There are Franklin, Hampshire, Essex, Suffolk, and Hampden
streets, alternated with Jackson, Sargeant, Cabot, Appleton, Dwight and
Lyman, named for noted cotton manufacturing firms. Main street is a long
thoroughfare extending north and south and terminating at the river.
Canal, Race, and Bridge streets were named from their location. Bowers,
Mosher and Ely from former landowners of Depot Hill. John street and
Oliver street perpetuate the name of John Oliver; High street was named
for its sightly location. West of, and parallel with, High, the streets
have the names of woods, Maple, Chestnut, Elm, Walnut, Pine, Beach, Oak,
Linden and Sycamore. Many of the streets in Ward seven were named for
persons first owning and or building upon them. Northampton street, is
the county highway from Springfield to Northampton.
[Illustration: WINDSOR HOTEL.]
The total area of Holyoke is about fourteen square miles. The first city
government was organized in January 1874, and the first Mayor of the
city was Hon. Wm. B.C. Pearsons, now judge of the Police court, who held
the office three years. The succeeding mayors have been Hon. William
Whiting, at present a Congressman from the 11th District, R.P. Crafts,
William Ruddy, F.P. Goodall, and James E. Delaney, the present
Executive. The city offices and the public library are located in the
city hall, a fine granite building which was completed in 1876 at a cost
of nearly $400.000. In the same year the city erected a monument on
Hampden Square in memory of the soldiers who died in the war of the
Rebellion. The handsome open house, where the best of theatrical and
musical talent appears during the entertainment season, was built by
Messrs Whiting & Brown and was completed in 1878.
The city has four National Banks, and three Savings Banks. It has a
daily newspaper, the Transcript, which is the direct successor of the
first newspaper printed in Holyoke, in 1849. Under its present title the
Transcript has been published since the year 1863.
The water supply for the city is derived from the Ashley and Wright
ponds, the water-works having been completed in 1873. Since then, other
mountain streams and reservoirs have been united with the water supply
of the ponds, to make it adequate for the growing city's needs. The
ponds from which the pipes are laid are located some four miles from the
City hall.
Holyoke pays liberally to support its public schools. There are eight
brick school buildings with all the modern improvements and conveniences
for the graded schools, besides suburban school houses and a High school
with 160 pupils. The Catholic parishes in the city also support
flourishing parochial schools, St. Jerome parish having just completed a
huge brick building for a girl's school.
The city has a wealth of new churches. The first little square white
church which the Baptists built in the beginning of the century was
removed in 1880 and a modern brick church now occupies the site. The
Second Baptist Church society in the central part of the city has just
completed a fine church edifice. The Second Congregational society, two
years ago, dedicated a splendid granite building which cost nearly
$100,000, the successor of the plain brick meeting-house which in 1853
was erected at the corner of High and Dwight streets. The city has a
large Catholic population and three extensive Catholic parishes each
having a capacious church of fitting architecture. The Episcopal people
worship in a picturesque stone church on Maple street, and near it is
the cozy little Unitarian church. The Methodists built a church of brick
on Main street about the year 1870. The First Congregational society has
a wooden edifice on Northampton street--the oldest church building in
the city since the primitive First Baptist meeting-house was taken
down--and the church at South Holyoke where the German residents listen
to the services of their faith in the language of the fatherland.
[Illustration: CHURCH OF THE PRECIOUS BLOOD (FRENCH CATHOLIC)]
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