CHAPTER XXXIX.

Mobile Temper and Trade—Inducements of Alabama to Emigrants.

Between Meridian and Mobile, the railroad passes only very small tracts

of land that appear at all inviting to Northern eyes. Much of the

country is grown up in pine. Possibly lumbermen might find it a good

location, but planters are likely to keep away from it.

All in all, however, Alabama offers better inducements to the Northern

emigrant than almost any of the other Southern States. The feeling

against Northerners is not so bitter as through most of the South. The

climate of the northern half of the State is delightful, and throughout

the State it is more healthy than at any point in the same latitude to

the westward. Northern, and a portion of Central Alabama, are well

adapted to the growth of Northern crops, wheat, corn, oats, hay, or

flax. Cotton can be grown anywhere in the State; although the only

first-class cotton lands lie in the central belt. The mountain regions

are admirably adapted for stock-raising. Apples may be well grown in the

same localities. In the southern sections, all the semi-tropical fruits

flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Worn-out and abandoned lands,

within easy distance of Mobile, may be bought for trifling prices,[59]

on which oranges, figs, bananas, peaches, apricots, plums, pears,

strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, and melons can be grown in

perfection, and with comparatively little labor. Fruit-growing has

hitherto been much neglected in Alabama, but no branch of industry gives

permanent offer of better rewards. Off the coast the fisheries are

almost as productive as those of Newfoundland, and they abound in rare

and valuable fishes not now known to any considerable extent in

commerce.

It would be much better for Northern men, who seek to avail themselves

of these advantages, to go in small colonies. They should not be too

large, lest they grow unwieldy. Half-a-dozen families, purchasing farms

of one or two hundred acres apiece, adjacent to each other, may thus

make up a little neighborhood of their own, which can sustain its own

school, and which will be sure to form the nucleus for further

accretions from the North. A farm of a hundred acres can thus be bought,

in many localities, for five or six hundred dollars, half or more of it

on long credits. No emigrant should be without half as much more, to put

at once into improvements for his family.

* * * * *

The Mobile and Ohio Railroad, down which I went from Meridian to Mobile,

seemed to be in better condition at that time than any of the other

Southern railroads, and the cars ran heavily loaded. Even then they were

making the trip between the mouth of the Ohio River and Mobile, in

forty-eight hours. The mails here, as elsewhere on the entire trip from

Washington, were carried with a degree of carelessness that showed how

little the gratuity of keeping up a mail service for them was yet

appreciated by the Southerners themselves. Often no one was at the

station to receive the mail. Sometimes it was handed to any chance negro

boy, with instructions to deliver it to the postmaster. Occasionally it

was thrown out on the ground. The route-agents, on the other hand, were

not free from fault. Often, especially at night, they went to sleep,

carried mails past a dozen stations before they waked again. But they

were not always to be blamed. One route-agent told me he had to make the

entire trip from Columbus to Mobile, two days and two nights, without

sleep! Enough agents had not yet been appointed; and the few on duty

were making an effort to do the work of the full force.

The greatest embarrassment, however, was for lack of postmasters.

“’Twill be a long time ’fo’ you get any postmaste’ heah, ’less you

’bolish that lyin’ oath,” said a strapping fellow who received the mail

at one place. “He was not appointed postmaste’, but he tuck pape’s and

lette’s to ’commodate ’em. You mout git wimmen for postmaste’s or

niggahs; but you can’t git no white men; cause they all went with their

State. An’ mo’—ef you fetch any d——d tories heah, that went agin their

State, and so kin take the oath, I tell ye, ’twill soon be too hot to

hold ’em. We haint got no use for sich.”

* * * * *

In the Spring of 1865, when I had last seen Mobile, it was a city of

ruins; warehouses ruined by “the great explosion,” merchants ruined by

the war, politicians ruined by the abject defeat, women bankrupt in

heart and hope. Emerging from the chaotic interior, in November, one

rubbed his eyes, as he was whirled through the bustling streets, to be

assured that he was not deceived by an unsubstantial vision. Warehouses

were rising, torpedoes had been removed from the harbor, and a fleet of

sail and steam vessels lined the repaired wharves. The main

thoroughfares resounded with the rush of business. The hotels were

overflowing. The “new blood of the South” was, of a truth, leaping in

right riotous pulsations through the veins of the last captured city of

the coast.

Everywhere, in the throng of cotton buyers, around the reeking bars, at

the public tables, in the crowded places of amusement—two classes,

crowded and commingled—Northern speculators and Rebel soldiers. These

last come on you in every guise. Single rooms at the hotel were out of

the question, and I received a jolly fellow, who looked as if he might

be magnificent in a charge—on the breakfast table—as my room mate. He

turned out to have been chief of staff to a conspicuous Southern

General. I fell into a conversation with my neighbor at dinner, which

soon drifted from requests for the mustard into a discussion of the

claims of Southern “members” to seats in Congress. By and by he casually

admitted that he had been in the Rebel service, which might interfere

with his taking the test oath!

Nothing could exceed the general cordiality. Formerly a Southerner was

moody, and resentful of approaches from Yankee-speaking strangers,

unless they came properly introduced. Now he was as warm and

unrestrained without the introduction as he used to be after it. That

was about the most marked change one noticed on the social surface. But

there was no abatement in the old ambitious pretensions. The North, we

were told, must have the Southern trade; and with that trade it was to

be corrupted. The North would be politically a power divided against

itself; the South would be a unit, and it would rule again as it always

had ruled. “Which side will we take?” answered an adept in political

shuffling, whose presence graced many a caucus in Washington in the old

times, “Why, the side that bids the highest for us, of course. And you

need’nt be at any loss to know which side that is. You’ve been whipping

us right soundly. We acknowledge the whipping, but we don’t kiss the

hand that gave it—not by a d——d sight! We’ll unite with the opposition up

North, and between us we’ll make a majority. _Then_ we’ll show you who’s

going to govern this country.”

The theory of reorganization, which prevailed during the war, based

itself upon the belief in the existence of a Union party at the South.

But there was no such party. There were “reconstructionists” who

believed, from the day of the defeat at Gettysburg, that Southern

independence was hopeless, and therefore wished to end the struggle on

the best terms they could get; but these men loved not the Union more,

but Jeff. Davis less. Now, when we sought for Union men to re-organize

civil government there were none to be found. It was on precisely this

point that the North failed, prior to the meeting of Congress, to

comprehend the situation. Immediate reorganization meant restoration of

civil power to the defeated Rebels. No other reorganization was

possible. Many may say now that no other was desirable; that a community

must always of necessity be controlled by its leading men. But in

November the North thought differently. It was eager for reorganization,

but determined that it should be effected only by Union men. Such

reorganization would have meant merely that, instead of an honest

government representing the great majority of defeated Rebels, a handful

of aggrieved and vindictive refugees should be held up by aid from

without, to sway power in the forms of republicanism over a people who,

but for the bayonet, would submerge them in a week.

No such farce had been attempted in this region. In Alabama and

throughout the greater portion of the Gulf States, the men who were

taking the offices were the men who had just been relieved of duty under

their Rebel commissions. The men who were to legislate safely for the

Freedmen were the men from whom the national victory extorted freedom to

the slave. The men who were to legislate security to the national debt

were the men for whose subjugation that debt was created. Whether these

are or are not desirable things, I do not here and now argue. But _the

fact_ is of importance to men of all parties.

People innocently asked, What is the temper of these re-organizing

rebels? A remark quoted a moment ago, was the universal answer. They

wanted to make the best for themselves of a bad bargain. They wanted to

get the best terms they could. They still believed themselves the

aggrieved party; held that the Abolitionists began the war; thought

themselves fully justified in seceding; believed in the necessity of

compulsory labor, and would come just as near as we would let them

toward retaining it. There was the whole status in a nutshell.

* * * * *

Mobile talked, however, rather of plantations and cotton than of

politics. Dozens of Northern men were on the streets, buying cotton on

speculation. Every steamboat swelled the number of Yankees on the

look-out for plantations, and of planters anxious to sell or lease.

These planters were entirely honest in the idea which lies at the bottom

of their convulsive grasp on slavery. They did not believe the negro

would work without compulsion. Accordingly, they considered themselves

absolutely destitute of reliable labor, and were anxious to be rid of

their lands. The Yankees had faith in Sambo and propose to back their

faith with abundant capital. If they succeed, their cotton fields are

better than Nevada mines. If they fail—but a Yankee never fails in the

long run.

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Footnote 59:

Sometimes as low as two or three dollars per acre.

After the War: A Southern Tour. May 1, 1865 to May 1, 1866 · 第 39 / 53 章