CHAPTER II.

A School of Unadulterated Negroes—An Ancient Virginia Town under the

Dispensation of Sutlers.

Our steamer for the voyage was to be the revenue cutter “Wayanda,” a

trim, beautifully-modeled, ocean-going propeller, carrying six guns, and

manned with a capital crew. While Captain Merryman was making his final

preparation for a cruise, much longer than he had expected when the

telegraph hurried his vessel around from New York, we retained the

little “Northerner” for a trip up to Norfolk—only delaying long enough

at the Fortress to drive out and see a great negro school, established

by General Butler.

The wharves were crowded by the usual curious throng of idle spectators,

laborers taking care of supplies, soldiers on duty, and a very sparse

sprinkling of ladies. Rebel soldiers by scores were mixed in the groups,

or could be seen trudging along the sidewalks toward the Commissary’s.

Everywhere were negroes—on the sidewalks—driving the wagons—in the huts

that lined the road. All the slaves of the adjoining counties seem to

have established themselves at the Fortress. As we crossed the long,

narrow isthmus, contracting at last to an attenuated causeway, which

separates the Fortress from the main land, and came out into the ancient

village of Hampton, the negro huts thickened into swarms, and fairly

covered the sites of the old aristocratic residences which the Rebels

fired early in the war when compelled to evacuate the place. Bricks, two

centuries old, imported by the early colonists from Great Britain, for

the mansions of the first families, were built up into little outside

chimneys for these cabins of the Freedmen; and here and there one

noticed an antique Elizabethan chair, of like age and origin, converted

to the uses of a portly negress.

To our right, down on the water’s edge, rose a high, narrow

residence—the former home of John Tyler; near it was another, somewhat

less pretentious, as well as less uncouth, which had formerly been

occupied by S. R. Mallory. Both find loyal and benevolent uses now at

the hands of the Government. Near them was a long colonnade, with

spacious piazzas, fronting a many-windowed brick hospital, which one of

our party was observed closely scrutinizing. “Upon my word,” he

exclaimed, after a moment’s reflection, “that is the old Chesapeake

Female College, of which I have been, from the foundation, one of the

Trustees.” Pale-faced men in blue occupied the chambers of the

boarding-school misses; and sentries, pacing to and fro, kept a stricter

guard than strictest duenna of boarding-school ever achieved.

To our left extended a stretch of marshy meadows and half-cultivated

fields. In their midst was one little field cultivated above all the

rest. White boards, with a trifle of modest lettering on each, dotted

its surface, and the grass grew greenest over long, carefully-smoothed

hillocks. A file of slow-paced soldiers, with arms reversed, was

entering the inclosure; behind them followed an army wagon, with five

rude pine boxes piled upon it; beyond, quietly, and, as one loved to

think, even sadly, regarding the scene, was a group of paroled Rebel

soldiers; while, as we turned, in passing, to catch a last glimpse of

the mourners in blue by the open graves, there was seen away behind us,

rippling in the breeze above the fort, the old flag for which these dead

had died, and against which these Rebels had fought.

* * * * *

We found the school-house (a barn-like frame structure), a little

removed from the cluster of negro huts, and took the school fairly by

surprise. Passing up a long hall, wide enough for double rows of desks,

in the center, with seats for about ten or twelve boys in each, and an

aisle on either side, with benches for the class recitations against the

walls, we came to an elevated platform, from which led off, in opposite

directions, two other precisely similar halls. The fourth, completing

the cross, was designed for girls, and was yet unfinished. Down these

three long halls were ranged row after row of cleanly-clad negro boys,

from the ages of six and seven up to sixteen or seventeen.

All seemed attentive; and though the teachers complained that the sudden

entrance of visitors always led to more confusion than usual, there was

certainly no more than one would expect from any school of equal extent

anywhere, or under any management. The rolls contained the names of

three hundred and seventy-four pupils, of whom about two hundred were

present. The Superintendent, who seemed an earnest, simple-minded man,

enthusiastically convinced that he had a “mission” here, spoke of this

as about the average attendance. The parents, he said, were themselves

so uncertain, and so little accustomed, as yet, to habits of regularity,

that they could not well bring up this average to a better point. It

seemed to me surely not so far behind our ordinary public schools at the

North as to suggest any unfavorable contrasts.

These children had all been slaves, and nearly all had accompanied their

parents on their escape from the plantations of the Peninsula, and of

the upper counties of North Carolina, to the Fortress. The parents had

generally been field hands, and one noticed among the children very few

faces not of pure African descent. Such masses of little woolly heads,

such rows of shining ivories, and flat noses and blubber lips, I had

never seen collected before, unless in a state of filth utterly

unbearable. The teachers were all convalescent soldiers from the

hospitals, moving noiselessly about among the benches in their hospital

slippers and cheap calico wrappers—as they themselves had often seen

moving about among their hospital cots the angels of mercy from the

North. Who shall say they were not doing as beneficent a work, or that

the little negroes might not well follow them with as longing and

affectionate a gaze?

Several classes were called up to exhibit their proficiency. Doubtless

the teachers selected their best scholars for the test—I think even

Northern schools sometimes do that—but there can be little opportunity

for deception in the reading of an unlearned lesson in a book, or in

answers to questions in mental arithmetic, propounded by the visitors

themselves. It was strange to see boys of fourteen or fifteen reading in

the First Reader; but stranger to observe how intelligently scholars in

the First Reader went about their work, and with what comparative

rapidity they learned. I passed among the forms and conversed with a

good many of the soldier-teachers. They all united in saying that on an

average the raw negro boys admitted to the school would learn their

letters and be able to read well in the First Reader in three months;

while some of them, who were originally bright, and who were kept in

regular attendance, made considerably more rapid progress.

An advanced class, composed of the little negro “monitors” who had been

longest in the school, was summoned to the platform to read a lesson in

the Fourth Reader. One or two of them read very badly; one or two quite

well, and with an evident understanding of what was said. The best

reader in the class was the smallest boy, an ebony-faced urchin, whose

head looked as a six-pound round shot, coated with curled hair from a

mattress, might. The Superintendent exhibited his manner of calling out

the classes through the whole school to recite, the military style in

which the boys were required to march to their places at the word of

command, and the general adherence to military forms, even in such

minutiæ as distributing slates, removing the stools for the monitors,

returning books to their places, and the like.

Then came a little address from the Dominie of our party, a former South

Carolina lawyer and heavy slaveholder; and we finally took our leave,

the little urchins eagerly handing up their slates, as we passed, to

have us see their penmanship; and laboriously tracing out, in school-boy

characters, their oddly-sounding names, to show us how readily they

could write.

This school is kept up at little or no expense to the Government, save

the original cost of erecting the rough board structure in which it is

held. The parents of the children have been, to a considerable extent,

employed by the Government as laborers in the Quartermaster’s

Department; and, meantime, the convalescents from the hospitals have

prepared the sons, in some measure, for the new order of things. Still

there is more dependence on charity than could be desired, especially

among the parents. Negroes need to be taught—just as slaves of any race

or color would need to be taught—that liberty means, not idleness, but

merely work for themselves instead of work for others; and that, in any

event, it means always work. To teach them this, do not gather them in

colonies at military posts, and feed them on Government rations; but

throw them in the water and have them learn to swim by finding the

necessity of swimming. For the present, these collections of negroes are

an inevitable result of the war; and that would be a barbarous

Government indeed which would not help in time of distress the men whose

friendship to it has brought them into distress; but it must be the

first care of the authorities to diminish the charity, and leave the

negroes, just as it would leave the white men—to take care of

themselves.

* * * * *

On arriving at Norfolk, we were met, at the shabby-looking old wharf, by

General Gordon, commanding the post. Carriages were in waiting, and we

were rapidly whirled past the tumble-down warehouses, through streets of

stores from which every former proprietor had gone, by the old English

brick church, whence the former pastor had departed, past elegant

residences of prominent rebels, in whose parlors sat the wives of Yankee

officers, and through whose superb gardens we were invited to wander,

and pluck at will great bending bunches of flowers that, at Washington,

were still scarce in the hot-houses.

From the gardens we turned toward the country to see the old line of

fortifications (planned, curiously enough, by a nephew of one of our

party), by which the Virginians, in the first months of the war, had

been confident they could hold Norfolk forever against the Yankee scum.

Negro soldiers manned the lines the rebel engineer had traced; but wild

flowers covered the embankments, and we plucked azalias of exquisite

fragrance from the crumbling embrasures. It was not less strange that

another member of our party, then foremost in the Cabinet, had

undertaken the search hereabouts for a landing for our troops, after the

officers had given it up; and had actually chosen the point where they

were safely debarked, and whence they had turned these long lines, and

reduced Norfolk—“Merrimac” and all—without a blow.

The wild flowers filled the moist evening air with their perfume as we

drove back through the negro quarter. Every hut exhibited the tender

tokens of mourning for the good, dead President, which were missing on

many aristocratic residences. There were no evidences of suffering or

destitution among these people; and it was not from their windows that

the lowering glances were turned upon the General, and the well-known

features of the anti-slavery leader by his side.

Norfolk ought to do, and will do a fine business—whenever it has any

country to do business for. It must always be the great shipping point

for the Virginia and North Carolina coast; the heaviest vessels can lie

by its wharves, and between it and Hampton Roads is room for the navies

of the world. But, thus far, there is scarcely any business, save what

the army has brought, and what the impoverished inhabitants who remain

are themselves able to support. Sutlers have sat in the high places

until they have amassed fortunes; but the merchants whose deserted store

rooms they are occupying are paroled and ruined Rebel officers. No trade

comes or can come from the interior. The people have no produce to

spare, and no money with which to buy. And the very number of

able-bodied men in the country has been sadly reduced.[1]

Everything is controlled by the military authority; and while there may

be a genuine Union sentiment that warranted the attempted elections of

Congressmen, one may still be permitted a quiet suspicion of the

independent and disinterested patriotism of the voters. Just as we were

pushing off, Mr. Chandler, a nervous, restless, black-haired Virginian,

came hobbling out from his carriage. He was a claimant for a seat in the

last House, which was refused; and was the leader of the Virginia

delegation to the Baltimore Convention, whose admission to that body his

fluent and impassioned rhetoric secured. Naturally he is a warm

supporter of the Pierpoint State Government, believes that “the loyal

men of the State constitute the State,” and doesn’t see why the fact

that they are few in numbers should prevent their exercising all the

powers of the State. Just now he and the few really loyal men, like him,

are very bitter against the Rebels, whom they wish to have excluded from

any participation in the ready-made State Government, which they hope

soon to have transferred from Alexandria to Richmond, and extended over

the State. But they frankly admit themselves to be in a very small

minority; and it remains to be seen how long a minority, however loyal,

can govern, in a republican country.

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Footnote 1:

Calculations, seemingly accurate, have placed the number of dead and

disabled Virginia soldiers at 105,000, or nearly one-tenth of the

entire free population of the State.

After the War: A Southern Tour. May 1, 1865 to May 1, 1866 · 第 2 / 53 章