_Size._ National Science Fair-International rules limit exhibit size to
48 inches wide and 30 inches deep. The structure may rest on the floor,
on its own supports, or on a table (normally about 30 inches high)
supplied by the fair. Even if local rules permit more space, you may
find it desirable to build to NSFI rules so your structure will be
eligible at all fairs.
The overall height of your exhibit is limited by practical
considerations to about 7 feet, since the passing viewer’s eye
encompasses most easily the area between 30 and 90 inches above the
floor and the view of someone standing near is even more limited.
Tabletop structures 48 inches or less in height work out nicely, and can
conserve materials.
_Shape._ With few exceptions, science fair exhibitors can explain their
projects adequately within structures similar to those shown in Figures
1 and 2. Such tabletop “booth” exhibits have these common features: (a)
a large back wall which can be used for the introductory message, for
featured illustrations or specimens, or for important conclusions; (b)
two smaller side walls, angled outward for easier viewing, which can
contain supplementary text and illustrations; and (c) horizontal display
space at table height to hold specimens, apparatus, project notebook and
project report, handout brochures, etc. Some exhibitors fit this space
with a slanted- or stepped-shelf unit. If the back and side walls are
fastened to such a base the structure is stronger.
[Illustration: _These two basic structures are designed for
simplicity, flexibility, economy of materials, and repeated use in
successive years of science fair competition. Both meet NSFI rules
on maximum dimensions. The structure shown in Figure 1 is easiest to
build. The one in Figure 2 is a modified Figure 1 designed to
accommodate an outsize object which must rest on the floor._]
[Illustration: Figure 1]
[Illustration: Figure 2]
Many variations are possible. Very tall objects might be handled by the
self-supporting structure shown in Figure 2. Some exhibitors extend back
and side walls to the floor, but this requires more panel material and
tempts the exhibitor to mount text and illustrations below the level of
easy viewing.
The title board can be functional as well as attractive, as in Figure 1.
It puts your main title where it can be seen easily and it conserves
wall space. It can brace the side walls and serve to shield lights.
_Materials._ Attractive exhibit structures can be built from artboard
and similar paper products, so for one-time-only elementary school
exhibits you may not wish to invest in more permanent materials. But if
you look forward to other projects, exhibits, and fairs, you will be
wise to consider materials which will hold up in repeated use. Even
though most fairs do not permit you to compete in successive years with
the same exhibit material, seldom do they require you to build a new
structure each year to hold your changing displays.
“Masonite” and similar wood-fiber particle boards are relatively
inexpensive, take paint and adhesives well, are fairly light, and in
thicknesses of more than ⅛ inch and lengths of less than 48 inches are
sufficiently rigid when supported by adjoining panels. They are
available with rows of holes pre-drilled to accommodate a multiplicity
of “pegboard” hanger devices. If you hope to use your basic structure
for other exhibits, pegboard allows you flexibility in rearranging
three-dimensional exhibit items. Also, the holes facilitate wiring down
display items that might be dislodged by careless viewers or filched by
thoughtless souvenir hunters.
One standard 4-by-8 foot sheet of hardboard or plywood will suffice for
the typical tabletop structure if you divide it as shown in Figure 3.
Plywood and untempered hardboard should be sealed with a primer coat
before finish painting. If you seal the reverse side of the panels also,
they warp less. For finish coats, the enamel now available in aerosol
spray cans will save you some brush work. Always apply spray paints in
several light coats while the surface is horizontal, to avoid unsightly
“runs”.
For bracing, framing, and other woodwork, white pine is strong, light,
easy to work, and unlikely to warp if seasoned properly.
Hinges, washers, bolts, nails, or screws which will be painted may be of
uncoated steel. Otherwise, you may find brass, stainless steel,
aluminum, or chrome-plated steel better.
If your exhibit proves to be a winner, you may need to erect and
dismantle it at several fairs. A little ingenuity and foresight in the
selection of removable-pin hinges, wing-nut bolt assemblies, and the
like, may save a lot of time later and help keep your exhibit structure
in good condition.
[Illustration: Figure 3]
CUTTING 4′ × 8′ PLYWOOD OR HARD BOARD FOR MAXIMUM ECONOMY
BACK WALL PANEL 34″ × 48″
TITLE BOARD OR “HEADER”
6″
SIDE WALL PANELS (2 ea.) 28″ × 48″
OVERHEAD PLAN OF TYPICAL SCIENCE FAIR EXHIBIT STRUCTURE
BACK WALL PANEL
SIDE WALL PANEL
SIDE WALL PANEL
BASE UNIT
30″ (allowable)
LIGHT BEHIND HEADER
48″ (allowable)
SIDE PLAN OF SAME STRUCTURE
CONCEALED LIGHT
HEADER
BACK PANEL
SIDE PANELS
ELECTRICAL OUTLET BOX
BASE UNIT
TABLE
_Lighting and Wiring._ Fluorescent lighting is bulky and hard to conceal
in the average science fair exhibit. Incandescent showcase lamps work
well, take up less space, and are less expensive. If you need shielded
light, consider inexpensive clip-on bed lamps.
Most fairs have rigid rules on electrical wiring and you should study
them and those of the National Science Fair-International. If you will
install a fused entry-outlet box on your back wall or base unit, as
shown in Figure 3, you can run all fixture cords to that one location.
Most fairs provide power cords reaching to the exhibitor’s electrical
inlet, but don’t depend on it. Procure 25 to 50 feet of heavy-duty
extension cord and keep it handy, just in case.