CHAPTER XXIV.

In the first week in June, all our ships of war and transports had

left the Canton River, and were again assembled at Hong-Kong. All the

forts from Chuenpee upwards had been restored to the Chinese, without

any other stipulation except that all those below Whampoa should be

suffered to remain in _statu quo_.

The emperor seems to have been much displeased with the latter part

of this agreement; and, in reply to the memorial of Yih-shan upon the

subject, his majesty directed that "_secret means_ of defence should

be prepared as soon as the foreign ships had withdrawn from the river,

and that they were then to build new and strong forts, and repair the

old ones." On our side, however, nothing of this kind was permitted

below Whampoa; so that, until the ratifications of the treaty of peace

had been actually exchanged, the whole of the defences of the Bogue

remained in the same dilapidated state in which they were left when our

squadron quitted the river in June, 1841.

Sickness had already begun to prevail among our troops before they had

reached Hong-Kong. The eight days' exposure which they had endured upon

the heights of Canton sowed the seeds of ague and dysentery, which

proved far more formidable energies to us than any troops the Chinese

could bring against us. After the lapse of a few days, and when the

excitement of active operations on shore, and the cheering influence

of hope and novelty had subsided, the sickness spread among the men

with alarming rapidity, so that, at length, out of our small force, no

less than _eleven hundred men_ were upon the sick-list at Hong-Kong.

Part of this alarming state of things must be attributed certainly to

the pernicious influence of the atmosphere of Hong-Kong itself at that

season of the year. But every allowance must be made for the exposure

which the men had undergone at Canton, and for the susceptibility of

constitution produced by long confinement on board ship. The germs of

disease were planted in their bodies before the men returned to the

harbour of Hong-Kong; and, therefore, an undue stress was laid at the

time upon the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong itself. It is worth while

here to mention, that the three imperial commissioners laid particular

stress upon the known unhealthiness of the neighbourhood of Canton at

that season, as a ground for the impossibility of keeping any large

body of troops long together; and it happened, remarkably enough,

that two of the high officers died as nearly as possible at the same

time--one on the part of the Chinese, and one on our side. Lung-Wan,

one of the imperial commissioners, died of fever at Canton about the

middle of June; and Sir Le Fleming Senhouse, the senior naval officer,

also died of fever at Hong-Kong on the 13th of that month.

Sir Le Fleming Senhouse had partaken of all the privations of the

troops on shore, and exposed himself on every occasion in which his

zeal and example could serve the cause. He was, moreover, undoubtedly

chagrined at the unlooked-for termination of his labours by a truce,

the provisions of which, right or wrong, scarcely accorded with his

own views of the exigencies of the moment. All these causes combined,

acting upon a not over-strong constitution, sufficed to hurry him by

sickness to his grave. On the 17th, his remains were removed to Macao,

according to a wish which he had expressed before his death, as if

he retained a lurking doubt whether Hong-Kong would not some day or

other be restored to the Chinese. The Nemesis was employed upon this

melancholy occasion, to carry over his remains. At Macao, the body of

the gallant veteran was buried, with all the honours due to his rank,

in the English burial-ground.

The loss of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse and other officers, as well as a

good many men, and the prevailing sickness on board all the vessels of

war and transports, at length threw a gloom over the whole expedition,

which was hardly to be relieved until the expected movement upon Amoy

should take place: this was accordingly looked forward to with great

anxiety.

The island of Hong-Kong, which was originally ceded to us by the terms

of our treaty with Keshen, but, in consequence of the disallowance of

that treaty by the emperor, was afterwards only held by us by right of

occupancy during the progress of hostilities, was at length confirmed

as a possession of the crown of Great Britain by the ratification

of the treaty of Nankin. It was proclaimed as a part of the British

empire, and, together with its dependencies, erected into a separate

colony, on the 26th of June, 1843, under the designation of the "Colony

of Hong-Kong."

It is difficult to ascertain what are the actual dependencies of

Hong-Kong. They, probably, include all the small islands immediately

adjacent to it, particularly on its southern side; but whether

Lamma Island is comprised in them or not, we have little means of

judging. In the proclamation, dated at its capital town, Victoria,

and published by the authority of Sir Henry Pottinger, the colony is

said to be situated between twenty-two degrees, nine minutes, and

twenty-two degrees, twenty-one minutes, north latitude, which would

give it an extent of twelve miles from north to south; so that Lamma

Island, as well as the smaller adjacent islands, would appear to be

included in the dependencies. The extent of the colony from east to

west is not distinctly laid down, as only one meridian of longitude is

given-namely, 114° 18' east longitude from Greenwich.

The position assigned to the island of Hong-Kong in the maps is,

probably, incorrect, as it does not coincide with that laid down by Sir

Henry Pottinger in the proclamation. The greatest length of the island

itself is from east to west--namely, eight miles; but the breadth is

extremely irregular, varying from six miles to about two miles only.[53]

The present capital, Victoria, extends for a considerable distance

along its northern shore, and, from the nature of the ground, has

of necessity been, built in a very extended, straggling manner. The

distance across to the mainland of China, if it can be so called, (for

part of the opposite coast is probably an island,) varies considerably.

The breadth of the Lyemoon Passage to the eastward is little more than

a quarter of a mile, but from the town to the nearest point opposite to

it is about a mile and a quarter, while the greatest breadth is upwards

of four miles.

The roads of Hong-Kong and the Bay of Victoria form an excellent

anchorage, having deep water very near the shore, and only one small

shoal having sixteen feet water upon it. There are, however, two

disadvantages under which it labours: it is exposed to the full fury of

the typhoons whenever they occur; and the high mountains of Hong-Kong

intercept the genial breezes of the south-west monsoon during the

hot season, when a movement in the atmosphere is most necessary, not

only to moderate the sultry summer heat of a tropical climate, but to

dissipate the unhealthy vapours which are generated after the heavy

rains which occur, particularly during the night, at that season.

In other respects, the lake-like appearance of the harbour is

beautiful; it forms a sort of basin, lying between the mountains of

Hong-Kong and the mountains of the mainland opposite. For this reason,

however, the rains which fall are sometimes excessively heavy: the

dark, threatening clouds seem banded across from one side to the other,

pouring down their waters in torrents upon the basin between them.

The mountain sides of Hong-Kong, steep though they are, occasionally

appear almost covered with a sheet of moving water, so torrent-like

do the streams pour down their declivities. To this succeeds the

burning, tropical sun of July, with a sort of death-like stillness in

the atmosphere, which, little influenced as it is on that side of the

island by the south-west monsoon, cannot fail, if it last long without

any change, to produce fever and sickness.

Almost all tropical countries are occasionally subject to these

visitations; but, as a proof that Hong-Kong is not always exposed to

them, I may be permitted to mention that a gentleman who was once at

anchor there, in company with a fleet of full fifty sail of merchant

ships during a period of nine months, including the whole summer

season, declared that he observed _no prevailing fever or sickness of

any kind_.

The extremely barren appearance of nearly all the islands at the mouth

of the Canton River, the deep and rugged furrows which seem to plough

up their mountain sides, the exposed, rocky surface of their summits,

and the absence of soil, except in sheltered spots or hollows, seem

at once to point out that they are situated within the influence of

hurricanes and tropical rains. In this respect, the contrast between

this part of China and the Chusan Islands to the northward, is very

remarkable. The latter look as rich and inviting, both near and at a

distance, as the former appear inhospitable and barren. In the one

case, there is an industrious and thriving population, who contrive

to cultivate the surface of the mountains, frequently to their very

summits, with the greatest care and nicety; in the other case, there

is a hardy and adventurous population of fishermen, smugglers, and

pirates; the unwilling soil is only cultivated in scattered patches,

and the villages are few, and comparatively of mean appearance.

[Illustration:

MAP

OF

HONGKONG.

REFERENCE

1 West Point Barracks

2 West Point Battery

3 Chinese Bazaars--and Market

4 Chief Magistrate, and Police Office

5 Harbour Master

6 Governor's Residence

7 Barracks

8 Bazaars

9 Artillery Barracks

10 East Battery

11 Hospital--Military

12 Cemetery

13 Seamen's Hospital

14 Morrison Education Society

15 Tower and Guard

16 }

17 } Military Stations

18 }

]

The southern side of the island of Hong-Kong was visited by Capt. Hall,

in the squadron which conveyed Lord Amherst's embassy to China in 1816;

and it is, therefore, worth while to repeat here the observations

of Dr. Clarke Abel Smith upon that occasion. The bay in which the

vessels anchored was near the village of Shekpywan, and was then

called Hong-Kong Sound. It was described as "being formed by several

small islands, by which it is land-locked on every side, and of which

Hong-Kong is the principal." "As seen from the deck," says Dr. Smith,

"this island was chiefly remarkable for its high, conical mountains

rising in the centre, and for a beautiful cascade, which rolled over a

fine blue rock into the sea."

This was in the beginning of July. The rocks on that side of the island

were found approaching to basalt in compactness of structure. In

ascending the principal mountain which was near, he followed the course

of a delightful stream, which rises near its summit; and was much

struck with the extreme barrenness of the surface of the mountain, and,

indeed, of every part of the island which he was able to visit. "Yet,

at a distance," says he, "it appears _fertile_, from the _abundance of

fern_, which I believe to be the polypodium trichotomum, [of Kæmpfer,]

which supplies _the place of other plants_."

By the side of the stream, however, he found several interesting

plants. Among them the Beckia chinensis; myrtus tomentosus in

abundance, and in full flower; melastoma quinquenervia; and several

orchideous plants, of which he could not determine the varieties. There

were a great number of ferns, but not a single moss of any description.

He adds that he was unable to reach the summit of the mountain, in

consequence of the excessive heat, which, at eight A.M., raised the

thermometer to 83° in the shade, while the sun's rays, to which he was

necessarily exposed, darted through an unclouded atmosphere with an

almost intolerable effect, and raised the mercury to 120°.

On his way down from the mountain, he followed a path which led over

a small hill, or rather mound, differing in structure from the rocks

in its neighbourhood, being composed of very friable stone, of reddish

white colour, much resembling disintegrated felspar. He describes the

scenery of the island as composed of barren rocks, deep ravines, and

mountain torrents, with few characters of a picturesque kind. The only

inhabitants he saw were some poor weather-beaten fishermen spreading

their nets, and drying the produce of their toils, on the rocks which

supported their miserable huts. Its cultivation corresponded with the

apparent state and number of its population. Patches of rice, small

plantations of yams, and a little buck-wheat, were all their visible

means of vegetable support.

As regards the anchorage itself, at what he calls Hong-Kong Sound,

naval men described it as affording admirable shelter for ships of any

burden.

Such, then, is all the information acquired at that time concerning a

portion of the southern side of Hong-Kong. Little was it then thought,

that this very island would, in a few years, become a part of the

British empire.

The description given above of the general aspect of Hong-Kong, may be

considered as tolerably correct, but, by the increase of its population

since that period, and more particularly, after it became a place of

resort for our ships, even before the close of the war, the general

appearance of the island gradually improved, and the population became

augmented. At the time we took possession of the island, there was

little to tempt us to make a settlement there, except the excellent

anchorage on its northern side, having a passage in and out at either

end, its proximity to the mouth of the Canton river, and the difficulty

of finding any more suitable place for our purpose.

At the eastern end of Hong-Kong there are capital stone-quarries,

which are worked with skill and facility by Chinese labourers, so that

building is much facilitated; water is also abundant and generally

good. A long range of mountains stretches from one end of the island to

the other, of which, the highest point, called Victoria Peak, is about

two thousand feet above the level of the sea; and, at the foot of the

very mountain, part of the town of Victoria (and it would seem also its

most unhealthy part,) is built. Now, as this range of rugged mountains

extends from east to west, the harbour, and consequently the principal

part of the town and places of business lying upon its northern side,

it is self-evident that the influence of the south-west monsoon,

which prevails during the summer months, and is then most required to

dissipate the vapours generated out of the earth by a tropical sun, can

scarcely ever be felt on the northern side of the mountains. It has

even been remarked, that _in all parts of_ China, places so situated as

to be sheltered from the influence of the south winds during the summer

season, are sure to be unhealthy.

The mere temperature of a place, as shewn by the thermometer, is

neither an index to its unhealthiness or otherwise, nor to the actual

sensations produced by it upon the human body. For instance, at

Singapore, which is situated only about seventy miles from the equator,

the heat is not felt to be excessive, nor is sickness prevalent during

any season of the year. Yet rain falls constantly during the night,

the grass looks beautifully green even in the hottest season, and when

pineapples are to be seen growing wild in the hedges, and coming to

perfection. But Singapore is entirely open to the southward, and its

atmosphere is agitated and its vapours dissipated, by the refreshing

sea-breezes which constantly pass over it.

The mean temperature of the month of July last, (1843,) at Hong-Kong,

was 88°, the lowest was 84°, and the highest 92°. Hence it appears,

that the difference of temperature between day and night, is much less

than might be expected; in fact, the _lowest_ temperature was only

four degrees below the average temperature of the whole month. On one

occasion only, it rose to 92° during the middle of the day, and once

only, fell to 84° during the night.

But, if the town of Victoria is deprived of the advantage of the

south-west breezes during the hot season, it is fully exposed to the

influence of the north-east monsoon during the winter months. The

sudden change which takes place sometimes in a few hours, in the

months of October and November, is severely felt. In the beginning of

December, I have felt the cold breezes from the northward far more

piercing than the hardest frost in the still atmosphere of northern

regions, because the change is sudden. Hence, the practice among the

Chinese, of putting on a succession of warm coats, or wadded pelisses,

or taking them off one by one, according as the temperature changes,

is the only safe course for Europeans to adopt. In fact, all those

who visit Hong-Kong, or take up a lengthened residence there, must be

provided with clothing adapted to the extremes of temperature, and be

cautious not to defer the changes of costume too long; they should

rather err on the side of too much than too little clothing.

Now I am upon the subject of the unhealthiness of Hong-Kong generally,

(to which subject, however, I shall again revert,) I cannot omit to

mention that the sickness has by no means been limited to those who

resided on shore, but has to a very great extent afflicted those also

who remained on board ship. Nor did it diminish so rapidly as had

been expected, (during the past year, 1843,) as the season advanced

and the temperature diminished. On the contrary, after being in a

great measure arrested at the commencement of November, it seemed to

acquire fresh virulence towards the latter end of that month. A private

letter, dated November 3rd, says, "The men-of-war are reducing their

sick lists. The Cornwallis has now only one hundred and four; the other

day she had one hundred and sixty under the doctor's hands." Another

letter, dated the 28th of the same month, says, "The sickness is again

as bad as ever. Each ship loses a man daily. Among the troops on shore

how many are lost! Many gentlemen who have been sick, and are now

recovering, are starting off for England, for health's sake."

Health committees have, however, been established, and it is hoped

that some good may result from their investigations. All parts even

of the northern side of the island are not equally unhealthy; and it

must be remembered that a place may be very unhealthy one year, and be

comparatively free from sickness the following year.[54] It is also

remarked that the occurrence of a typhoon (though in other respects

much to be dreaded) tends materially to improve the healthiness of an

otherwise sickly place, by the violent phenomena, barometrical and

electrical, which it produces, and by which all nature is affected.

Hitherto the western and eastern extremities of Victoria Bay seem to

have proved most unhealthy to Europeans, the centre being less so.

The left wing of the 55th, quartered at West Point barracks, lost

one hundred men between June and the middle of August last; and at

length the place was abandoned, and the rest of the men sent on board

ship. At the recommendation of a health committee, the ground in

the neighbourhood was ordered to be levelled and well drained. This

essential measure will doubtless be resorted to in other situations;

indeed, it would be a matter of the highest importance, if possible, to

prohibit the cultivation of rice by the Chinese upon _any part_ of the

island. Wherever rice is grown, particularly within or verging upon the

tropics, there must be more or less unhealthiness. If compensation were

thought requisite, to reimburse the Chinese proprietors for the loss of

their crops, the amount would be small in comparison with the advantage

gained. But, in reality, where the rice-grounds (which, after all, are

very limited) had been properly drained, they might be adapted to the

cultivation of other productions equally necessary for a population

numbering so many Europeans, and less likely to be prejudicial to the

health of the community.[55]

At the eastern extremity of Victoria Bay is a considerable valley,

shut up by mountains on every side, except towards the sea. It is

laid out almost entirely in rice-grounds, and the waters of a natural

stream, descending from the mountains at the end of the valley, had

been diverted from their natural channel, and conducted by innumerable

streamlets to every part of the valley, for the irrigation of the

rice-grounds. Several houses have been built upon the declivity of the

hills around it, in the expectation that this would be the ultimate

site of a second town, as soon as the very limited space between the

mountains and the harbour, along the front of Victoria Bay, should be

completely occupied, which it bids fair soon to become. The draining of

this valley would essentially improve the condition of that important

portion of the island.

A good road has already been nearly completed across that valley, and

over the mountains to the other side of the island, leading down to

Tytam Bay, and the important village of Chek-Chu. Beyond this valley

to the eastward, on the other side of Matheson's point, are fine bold

rocks, running down to the water's edge, being also more open to the

draught of air along the Lyemoon passage, this position would probably

be a healthy one.

Having thus spoken so much concerning the northern side of the island

in particular, it may be asked what is the state of the southern side,

as regards its healthiness. Undoubtedly, the southern side, being

open to the south-west monsoon, is comparatively healthy, but there

is no harbour fit for mercantile purposes on that side, nor was any

land appropriated there for building purposes in the first instance,

because the unhealthiness of Victoria Bay was not fully ascertained,

and because, where a man's treasure or his business is, there will his

heart and his occupation be also. Doubtless, in a very short time many

of the Europeans will reside on the southern side of the island, and

cross over the mountains daily to transact their business.

The principal Chinese village, which numbered a population of about

two thousand, even when we took possession of the island, is prettily

situated on the southern side, in a sheltered bay, well open, however,

to the south-west wind. It is called Chek-Chu, and, at the suggestion

of Major Aldrich, cantonments have been formed for a detachment of

troops there, so as to separate them from the Chinese population. A

detachment of the 98th regiment, which was quartered there during the

last season, remained almost entirely healthy; and there is little

doubt that in a short time many Europeans will take up their residence

in that neighbourhood.

It is extremely difficult to form any tolerable estimate of the

Chinese population on the island. It varies continually, a great part

of the people being migratory. When we first took the island there

were probably about five thousand Chinese upon it, exclusive of the

boat-people, casual labourers from the opposite coast, and others of a

migratory description. They were distributed into fourteen or fifteen

villages or hamlets, of which the principal, as before stated, was

Chek-chu, on the southern side, situated in a bay partly formed by the

long irregular headland which runs out and takes the name of Tytam

Head. This bay, together with Tytam Bay, will doubtless soon become a

favourite spot for the retired residences of Europeans.

Since we have held possession of the island, the Chinese have naturally

been attracted to it in great numbers. The tradesmen, mechanics,

servants to English residents, labourers, boatmen, and market people,

are all Chinese. Add to these also, a small body of Chinese police,

and we shall find that the population must be considerable. In all the

warehouses of the merchants a vast number of porters and attendants

are employed; all the houses are built by Chinese workmen, and a vast

number are also employed by government upon the public roads and works.

The number of migratory, or trading people, who come down from Canton,

Macao, and other parts, is also large; so that upon the whole the high

estimate of 30,000 which has been given, may not be much overrated.

But this number probably includes the Europeans, the number of whom,

exclusive of the military, cannot be large, perhaps a very few hundreds.

The reputed unhealthiness of the town of Victoria has deterred many

from coming over from Macao for the present, who otherwise contemplated

establishing themselves on the island. The uncertainty which has

prevailed respecting the liberty to store opium, has also tended to

give a check to the originally rapid progress of the settlement.

In the meantime, the Portuguese, becoming fully sensible of the

deterioration of the value of property at Macao, owing to the sudden

rise of a rival European settlement in their neighbourhood, began

to take into consideration the propriety of rendering Macao a free

port, similar to Hong-Kong, and probably without any restrictions as

to opium. Great efforts have been made to effect this object, and the

Portuguese governor had gone up to Canton, attended by his suite, with

a view to confer with the authorities, in the hope of procuring from

the government the recognition of greater privileges than they had

hitherto enjoyed. This circumstance, together with the momentary pause

at Hong-Kong, had tended to reassure the European inhabitants of Macao,

and to raise the value of houses (which had previously fallen) from ten

to fifteen per cent.

If means should be found (of which strong hopes are entertained) of

improving the condition of Hong-Kong, as regards its healthiness, no

attempted rivalry of Macao could affect the new settlement to any

extent. It has neither a harbour for ships to anchor in sufficiently

near the town, nor ground upon which warehouses could be built, nor can

the Portuguese officers ever possess more than a very restricted, and

perhaps precarious authority.

The wonderful progress of our settlement at Hong-Kong, in the first

instance, affords perhaps one of the most striking instances that has

ever been recorded of the astonishing energy and enterprise of the

British character. Great as were the early strides made even by some

of the Australian colonies, situated too at the opposite end of the

globe, their progress, compared with that of Hong-Kong, was slow and

difficult. When our forces were assembled in the harbour of Hong-Kong,

on their return from Canton, in June, 1841, there was not a single

regularly built house fit for the habitation of Europeans upon the

island; for the Chinese villages can hardly be taken into account. When

the expedition set sail for Amoy, about two months afterwards, a few

mat-sheds and temporary huts were all that indicated the future site of

the town of Victoria, or pointed out what was soon to become the centre

of British commerce in that part of the world, and the seat of British

power upon the threshold of the most populous empire the world ever saw.

The first sale by auction of land, or rather of the annual quit-rents

only, was held in June. On the 7th of that month, Hong-Kong was

declared to be a free port, and on the 22nd, Mr. A. R. Johnston, the

deputy-superintendent of trade, was appointed acting governor of the

island.

The portion of land put up for sale, in the first instance, consisted

of only thirty-four lots, each of which was to have a sea-frontage of

about one hundred feet; but the depth of each lot, of course, varied

considerably, according to the nature of the ground. The sale of the

annual quit-rents only, payable in advance, produced no less a sum than

£3165. 10s. yearly, at this first sale. Equally high prices also were

obtained on subsequent occasions. Moreover, one of the conditions of

sale was, that each purchaser should be required to incur an outlay

upon each lot, within the _first six_ months, either in building or

otherwise, of not less than one thousand dollars, or upwards of two

hundred and twenty-two pounds sterling, and a deposit of five hundred

dollars was to be paid into the hands of the treasurer within one week,

but was to be repayable as soon as an equal amount had been expended.

Accordingly, within six months from the time above named, wonderful

improvements had taken place, although much preliminary work was

necessary before any solid building could be erected. In fact, the

first regular house built for Europeans was not completed until

September or October following; and, as it was constructed entirely by

Chinese mechanics, it assumed very much the form of a Chinese house.

The government now began to form an excellent road, called the Queens

Road, along the front of the harbour, and to encourage improvements

in every possible way. The elements of a regular establishment were

soon formed, and the nucleus of a powerful European community was soon

planted upon the borders of haughty China. Its progress from this

moment was wonderful, and no stronger argument than this can be adduced

to point out the _necessity_ of such an emporium as Hong-Kong, and the

impossibility of continuing the former state of things.

Within _one year_ from the completion of the first house, not only

were regular streets and bazaars for the Chinese erected, but numerous

large substantial warehouses were built mostly of stone, some already

finished, and others in progress. Wharfs and jetties were constructed

of the most substantial kind; the sound of the stone-mason's hammer

was heard in every direction, and a good road was in progress, and an

admirable market was established in English style, under covered sheds,

and well-regulated by the police. The Chinese willingly resorted to it,

and brought abundant supplies of every description, readily submitting

themselves to all the regulations. Large commissariat stores and other

public buildings, including barracks at either end of the town, were

finished. The road, which was carried along the foot of the hills,

extended already to a distance of nearly four miles, and a cut was

being made through a high sand-hill, in order to continue it further;

and at intervals, along the whole of the distance, substantial and even

elegant buildings were already erected. The numerous conical hills

which distinguish this part of the island were nearly all levelled at

the top, in readiness to commence building new houses; stone bridges

were in progress, and the road was being rapidly continued over the

hills at the eastern end of Victoria Bay, leading down to Tytam Bay,

and the picturesque village of Chek-chu.

The Chinese inhabitants seemed to fall readily into our ways and

habits; their labourers and mechanics worked well and willingly for

moderate pay, and came over in crowds from the opposite coast to seek

work; tradesmen crowded in to occupy the little shops in the bazaars;

two European hotels and billiard-rooms were completed; and, in short,

every necessary, and most luxuries, could be obtained with facility

at Hong-Kong, _within the first year of its permanent settlement_.

Even the Portuguese missionaries came over and built a sort of convent

and a chapel; the Morrison Education Society and the Missionary

Hospital Society commenced their buildings; more than one missionary

society made it their head-quarters, and the Anglo-Chinese College, at

Malacca, was about to be removed to this more favourable spot. A small

Roman-catholic chapel was nearly finished, and a neat little American

Baptist chapel had been opened for divine service, being the first

Protestant place of public worship ever established in that part of the

world--of course, with the exception of the old company's chapel, in

the factory at Canton. There was, however, no church of England service

performed at that time on the island--a deficiency which happily has

since been remedied.

Foreign merchants had also commenced building, and it was a curious

sight to see the hundreds of Chinese labourers working upon the

construction of _our_ houses and roads, and flocking from all

quarters to furnish _us_ with supplies, and seeking their living by

serving us in every way, at the very time when we were at war with

their government, and carrying on hostile operations against their

countrymen to the northward. At the same time, also, Chinese tailors

and shoemakers were busy in their little shops making clothes for us,

and Chinese stewards superintended our establishments, while Chinese

servants (in their native costume, tails and all) were cheerfully

waiting upon us at table: and all this within little more than one year

after the _first_ land-sale at Hong-Kong, and while we were still at

war.

There appears to have been some little mistake in the original site

of the town, the principal part of which, or, at least, the part most

inhabited by the Chinese, is situated, in a great measure, upon the

declivity of the highest of the mountains which shut in the harbour.

The space for building is very limited, and, indeed, this is the case

along the whole shore. Gradually people have spread themselves eastward

along the front of the harbour, and, probably, at no very distant

time, a second town will spring up at the eastern end of the harbour;

indeed, the buildings already erected by Messrs. Jardine and Matheson

are so extensive, as to form almost a town of themselves. But the

great distance from one end of Hong-Kong, or rather of Victoria to the

other, is already a source of great inconvenience, particularly in a

hot country. In a short time, the establishment of an exchange in some

central part will probably be undertaken, and will go far to remedy the

inconvenience.

It is unfortunate that the space between the foot of the mountains and

the edge of the sea is so very limited. It would have been a great

advantage to have been able to form a quay or esplanade along the front

of the harbour, with warehouses and dwelling-houses in the rear. But

this was not practicable; and, consequently, the back of the warehouses

in most instances faces the water, which in some measure detracts from

the appearance of the town, as seen from the harbour. Nevertheless, it

is impossible for the stranger not to be struck with the first view

of it as he approaches. He could scarcely be prepared to see so many

large, handsome buildings occupying a great extent of frontage in a

settlement so recently acquired.

There are few things more striking of the kind than the view of the

Bay of Victoria and the roads of Hong-Kong, from any one of the hills

at its eastern end towards Matheson's Point. The number of European

vessels, Chinese junks, boats of all kinds, and the long line of

handsome buildings skirting the bay, and lighted up by a brilliant sun

piercing a cloudless atmosphere, present a picturesque and interesting

scene, which is scarcely detracted from even by the barren mountains in

the rear.

As regards the defences of Hong-Kong, it is evident that our main

reliance must always be placed upon our ships of war. The two small

batteries already erected could be of little service against an enemy.

A plan was submitted by Major Aldrich, the commanding engineer, for

forming a large fort somewhere about the centre of the bay. But this

plan did not meet the concurrence of Sir Henry Pottinger, although he

referred it for the consideration of the government at home.

The question of the tenure of land for the future at Hong-Kong, or

rather the terms upon which it can be obtained from the government is

one of the highest importance. It is understood that it is not the

intention of government to permit any land to be alienated from the

crown. Future sales of land will probably be effected in the same way

as the earlier ones; that is, merely the annual rental of the different

lots of land will be put up to auction. No regulations upon this

subject have yet been issued; and, most likely, the new governor, Mr.

Davis, will have some discretionary power in fixing the precise terms

upon which the _right of occupation_ of land will be disposed of. The

system of annual rentals to government in a colony circumstanced as

Hong-Kong is,--a free port, a soil mostly barren, and an island of very

limited extent,--must appear to every one the most judicious plan to

adopt. A _permanent_ annual fund will thus be created for the purposes

of government, and one which must increase every year rather than

diminish.

Hong-Kong will always possess the immense advantage of abundant labour

at a reasonable rate. Any number of Chinamen which could possibly be

required will always be readily obtained from the mainland.

I must not omit to mention, among the strong characteristics of

English colonization, the establishment of a free press at Hong-Kong.

A newspaper is usually one of the first undertakings in an English

settlement. It has been said, in respect to colonization, that the

first thing the French undertake is to build a fort, the Spaniards a

church, and the English a factory or a warehouse; but, perhaps, it is

more characteristic still, that one of the first things the English

establish is a press. The Englishman carries with him his birthright

of free discussion; and the power of having a good hearty grumble

in _print_ compensates him for many early inconveniences of a new

settlement. There are four English newspapers published in China; the

Hong-Kong Gazette, the Eastern Globe, the Hong-Kong Register, and the

Canton Press; of which the last is published at Macao, and the other

three at Hong-Kong. In the first-named, all the government notices are

inserted by authority.

According to the latest accounts, the Morrison Institution had been

opened for some time, and the youths who were being educated were

making good progress. The Seaman's Hospital for the merchant service,

recently opened, was calculated to afford accommodation to fifty men

and officers. This institution is in a measure a self-supporting one,

a certain sum being paid daily for the maintenance of each person

admitted.

FOOTNOTES:

[53] A glance at the accompanying map will sufficiently indicate the

peculiar form of the island.

[54] Since the commencement of the present year, 1844, the sickness has

nearly disappeared.

[55] The _northernmost_ point in Europe where rice is cultivated, is, I

believe, the neighborhood of Milan. But, even there, none is permitted

to be grown within a circuit of several miles of the city, owing to the

unhealthiness which it would produce.

Narrative of the Voyages and Services of the Nemesis from 1840 to 1843 And of the Combined Naval and Military Operations in China: Comprising a Complete Account of the Colony of Hong-Kong and Remarks on the Character & Habits of the Chinese. Second Edition · 第 24 / 38 章