The next place towards which the Nemesis was destined to shape her
course was the island of Ceylon, where at length was to be made known
to her the ultimate service upon which she was to be employed. It
was not until the 10th that she lost sight of Comoro island, the
northernmost of the group of that name, and, if measured in a direct
line, considerably less than one hundred miles from Johanna.
Horsburgh particularly notices the light, baffling winds, and the
strong, south-west and southerly currents, which prevail during the
months of October and November among the Comoro Islands. But it was
found upon this voyage that these difficulties presented themselves
sometimes much earlier than stated by him. It was now only the
beginning of September, and the southerly current was found setting
down at the rate of even sixty miles a day. Indeed, both the winds and
currents in the Mozambique Channel had been found very different from
what had been expected. It was the season of the south-west monsoon
when she entered it in the month of August; and as it is usually stated
that this wind continues to blow until early in November, the Nemesis
ought to have had favourable winds to carry her quite through, even
later in the season. On the contrary, she met with a strong head-wind,
and a much stronger southerly current than she had reason to expect.
The opinion of Horsburgh seems to be fully confirmed, that late in
the season it is better for ships to avoid the Mozambique Channel, and
rather to proceed to the eastward of Madagascar, and then pass between
Diego Garcia and the Seychelle Islands. Steamers, however, would have
less need of this were coal to be had at Mozambique.
From the equator, the current was always easterly; but nothing
particular occurred worth noticing, except that, as she approached the
Maldive Islands, she encountered very heavy squalls, accompanied with
rain.
On the following day, the 1st October, the Maldives were in sight; and,
in order to carry her through them rapidly, steam was got up for a
few hours, until she came to, in the afternoon, within a quarter of a
mile of the shore, under one of the easternmost of the islands, named
Feawar, having shaped her course straight across the middle of the
long, and until lately, much dreaded group of the Maldive Archipelago.
This extensive chain or archipelago of islands lies in the very centre
of the Indian Ocean, and, being placed in the direct track of ships
coming from the south-west towards Ceylon, and the southern parts of
Hindostan, it was long dreaded by mariners, and shunned by them as
an almost impenetrable and certainly dangerous barrier. It is stated
by Horsburgh, that the early traders from Europe to India were much
better acquainted with these islands than modern navigators, and that
they were often passed through in these days without any apprehension
of danger. The knowledge of their navigable channels must therefore
have been, in a great measure, lost; and, although the utmost credit
is due to the indefatigable Horsburgh for his arduous efforts to
restore some of the lost information, it is to the liberality of the
Indian government, and particularly to the scientific labours and
distinguished services of Captain Moresby and Commander Powell, of the
Indian navy, that we are indebted for the minute and beautiful surveys
of all these intricate channels which have been given to the world
since 1835.
This archipelago is divided into numerous groups of islands, called by
the natives Atolls, each comprising a considerable number of islands,
some of which are inhabited, and abound in cocoa-nut trees, while the
smaller ones are often mere barren rocks or sandy islets. The number
of these islands, large and small, amounts to several hundred; and the
groups, or Atolls, into which they are divided, are numerous. They are
laid down with wonderful accuracy and minuteness by Captains Moresby
and Powell; so that, with the aid of their charts, the intricate
channels between them can be read with almost the same facility as the
type of a book. Thus one of the greatest boons has been conferred upon
navigators of all nations. They are disposed in nearly a meridian line
from latitude 7° 6' N. to latitude 0° 47' S., and consequently extend
over the hottest portion of the tropics, for the distance of more than
three hundred and seventy miles.
As the Nemesis passed through these islands, she found that all the
former difficulties had now vanished. So accurate were the soundings,
and given on so large a scale, that it was more like reading a European
road-book than guiding a vessel through an intricate labyrinth of
islands.
The very sight of a steamer completely frightened the inhabitants
of the little island of Feawar; who, although they at length came
alongside without much fear, could never be persuaded to come on board
the vessel. However, they had no objection to act as guides, for the
purpose of shewing what was to be seen upon their island; and, while a
little necessary work was being done to the vessel, Captain Hall and
two or three of the officers landed, and were soon surrounded by a
crowd of natives upon the beach, quite unarmed.
A stroll along the shore, covered with pieces of coral, soon brought
them to a mosque and burial-ground, which was remarkable for the
neatness with which it was disposed. The little ornamented head-stones,
with inscriptions, and flowers in many places planted round them,
probably refreshed by the sacred water of a well close at hand, proved,
at all events, the great respect paid to their dead, which is common
among all Mohammedans. Indeed, the inhabitants of all these numerous
islands are mostly of that persuasion, and consider themselves to be
under the protection of England, the common wish of almost all the
little independent tribes of the East.
The village itself appeared to be at least half deserted, the poor
people, particularly the women, having hastily run away, leaving their
spinning-wheels at their doors. They appear to carry their produce,
consisting of oil, fish, rope, mats, &c., to Ceylon and other parts
of India, in large boats of their own construction, bringing back
in return rice and English manufactured goods. Indeed, an extensive
traffic is carried on between all the northernmost of this extensive
chain of islands, or submarine mountains, and the nearer parts of the
coast of India.
On the same evening, the Nemesis continued her voyage, and, on the
afternoon of the 5th October, reached the harbour of Pointe de Galle,
in Ceylon. She came in under steam, with about eight tons of coal
remaining, having been exactly one month from Johanna.
The mystery attending the Nemesis was now to end. Scarcely had she
fairly reached her moorings, when a despatch was delivered to the
captain from the government of India, containing orders from the
Governor-general in council, to complete the necessary repairs, and
take in coal and provisions, with all possible expedition, and then to
proceed to join the fleet off the mouth of the Canton River, placing
himself under the orders of the naval commander-in-chief.
Great was now the rejoicing of both officers and men. Her captain had
already been made acquainted with his destination, as far as Ceylon,
before leaving England, but no one on board, until now, had any certain
information as to what particular service they were to undertake
afterwards. The road to distinction was now made known to them; they
were at once to be engaged in active operations, in conjunction with
her majesty's forces.
Notwithstanding, however, the unremitted exertions of all on board,
the Nemesis could not be got ready to proceed on her voyage in less
than eight clear days from the time of her arrival at Pointe de Galle.
Added to this, the whole of the stores and supplies had to be sent
by land from Columbo, a distance of seventy-two miles, as it was not
then so well known that all these things could be readily obtained at
Singapore, and that therefore a smaller quantity would have sufficed.
Indeed, from the more frequent communication with Ceylon, through
vessels touching at Pointe de Galle for supplies, which has since taken
place, every provision has now been made at that port, without the
necessity of sending for stores to so great a distance as Columbo.
Under all circumstances, no time was to be lost; and the anxiety to
proceed on the voyage as quickly as possible was so great, that Captain
Hall determined to start off for Columbo the same evening, in order
to wait upon his Excellency the Governor, and expedite the sending
on of the requisite stores. A highly respectable merchant, Mr. Gibb,
who was going over, kindly offered him a seat in his gig, and, after
considerable exertion and fatigue, they arrived at Columbo late on the
following evening.
On the following morning, the country presented itself in all the rich
tropical aspect of these regions. The whole road to Columbo pointed out
a fertile and luxuriant country, and was in itself admirably adapted
for travelling.
For my own part, the more I have seen of tropical countries, the
more I have everywhere been fascinated by their luxuriance, and
enjoyed the brilliancy of their skies. There is much to compensate
for the occasional oppression of the heat, which, after all, is less
troublesome or injurious than the chilling blasts of northern climes;
and, generally speaking, with proper _precaution_, it has been hardly
a question with myself whether the _average_ degree of health and
buoyancy of spirits is not far greater than in less favoured though
more hardy regions. Every day that passes is one in which you feel
that you really live, for every thing around you lives and thrives
so beautifully. Nevertheless, it must not be forgotten that, after
a few years spent in so relaxing a climate the constitution becomes
enfeebled, and is only to be restored by a visit to more bracing
regions.
Governor Mackenzie seemed to take much interest in the steamer, and
in her probable capabilities for the peculiar service likely to be
required of her in China; he had evidently made the subject his study,
and upon this, as upon other questions, evinced great intelligence.
Little need here be said about the island of Ceylon, which has been
recently so well described and treated of by able and well-informed
writers. The fine fortifications of Columbo, (the capital of the
island,) the governor's palace, the barracks and public offices, are
all worth seeing; indeed, it is to be regretted that arrangements have
not yet been made, by which the steamers from Calcutta to the Red Sea,
touching at Point de Galle, might allow some of their passengers,
instead of wasting the valuable time necessary for taking in fuel at
Point de Galle, to cross over to Columbo. The steamers might then, with
a very trifling additional expense, touch at Columbo to pick them up,
together with other passengers likely to be found there, now that the
overland route is daily becoming more frequented.
The most curious sight at Columbo is the little fleet of fishing-boats,
in the shape of long, narrow canoes, each made out of the single trunk
of a tree, with upper works rigged on to them, falling in in such a
way, that there is just sufficient room for a man's body to turn round.
They start off with the land-wind in the morning, and run out a long
distance to fish, returning again with the sea-breeze in the afternoon.
Both ends are made exactly alike, so that, instead of going about, they
have only to shift the large lug-sail, the mast being in the middle,
and it is quite indifferent which end of the boat goes foremost. To
counteract the natural tendency of so narrow a body to upset, two
slight long spars are run out at the side, connected at the outer ends
by a long and stout piece of wood, tapering at either extremity, not
unlike a narrow canoe; this acts as a lever to keep the boat upright,
and is generally rigged out upon the windward side. If the breeze
freshens, it is easy to send a man or two out upon it, as an additional
counterpoise by their weight, and there they sit, without any apparent
apprehension.
The healthiness of Ceylon is within the last few years greatly
improved, principally owing to the extensive clearing of land which
has taken place. The plantations of coffee having been found at one
time, as indeed they are still, to yield a very large profit, induced a
great number of persons to enter into the speculation. Land was readily
purchased from government as quickly as it could be obtained, at the
rate of five shillings an acre; and the result has been a considerable
increase in the exports of the island, as well as an amelioration of
its condition.
Coals, provisions, and stores of all kinds, were sent on board the
Nemesis with the utmost expedition, and, on the afternoon of the 14th
October, she was once more ready for sea. The public interest in the
events gradually growing up out of the negotiations which were then
being carried on with the Chinese had gradually been raised to a high
pitch, and a passage to China, to join the force as a volunteer, was
readily provided for the governor's son, Lieutenant Mackenzie. Crowds
of people gathered upon the shore in all directions to witness her
departure, and the discharge of a few signal-rockets as soon as it was
dark added a little additional novelty to the event.
Ten days sufficed to carry the Nemesis to the island of Penang, or
Prince of Wales's island. Her passage had been longer than might have
been expected, owing in a great measure to the badness of the coal,
which caked and clogged up the furnaces in such a way that, instead of
requiring to be cleaned out only once in about twenty-four hours, as
would have been the case with good coal, it was necessary to perform
this process no less than four times within the same period; added to
which, the enormous quantity of barnacles which adhered to her bottom
(a frequent source of annoyance before) greatly retarded her progress.
The island of Penang, which lies close upon the coast of the peninsula
of Malacca, from which it is separated by a channel scarcely more than
two miles broad, would seem to be a place particularly adapted for
steamers to touch at. Indeed, it has become a question of late whether
it should not be provided with a sort of government dockyard, for the
repair of the increased number of ships of war and transports, both
belonging to the service of government and the East India Company,
which will necessarily have to pass through the straits of Malacca, now
that our intercourse with China is so rapidly increasing. The harbour
is perfectly safe, the water at all times smooth; coals can easily be
stored there, and good wood can be obtained on the spot; moreover,
it lies directly in the track of ships, or very little out of it, as
they generally prefer passing on the Malacca side of the straits,
particularly during the south-west monsoon. The heavy squalls which
prevail on the opposite coast are so severe, that they have at length
taken its very name, and are called Sumatras. They are accompanied
with terrific lightning, which often does great mischief, and they are
justly looked upon with great dread.
Penang is very properly considered one of the loveliest spots in
the eastern world, considering its limited extent; and, from the
abundance and excellence of its spice productions, which come to
greater perfection in the straits than in any other part in which they
have been tried, (except, perhaps, in the island of Java,) this little
island has proved to be an extremely valuable possession. It abounds
in picturesque scenery, heightened by the lovely views of the opposite
coast of Malacca, called Province Wellesley, which also belongs to the
East India Company. The numerous and excellent roads, the hospitality
of the inhabitants, and the richness of the plain, or belt, which
lies between the high, wooded mountains in the rear, and the town
and harbour are, perhaps, unequalled. This plain, together with the
sides of some of the adjoining mountains, is covered with luxuriant
plantations of nutmegs, cocoa-nut-trees, and spice-trees of all kinds;
and altogether Penang is one of the most attractive, as it is also one
of the healthiest spots in the East. It has by some been even called
the "Gem of the Eastern seas." There is a fort not far from the fine,
covered jetty, or landing-place, of considerable strength; and, with
very moderate trouble and expense, there is little doubt that Penang
could be made a valuable naval depôt.
The short passage down the straits of Malacca, towards Singapore, was
easily performed in three days. But here again some detention was
inevitable. The north-east monsoon had already fairly set in, and as
vessels proceeding up the China Sea, at this season, would have the
wind directly against them, it was necessary that the steamer should
take in the greatest possible quantity of fuel she could carry, before
she could venture to leave Singapore. On this occasion, every spare
corner that could be found was filled with coal, and even the decks
were almost covered with coal-bags. By this means, she was enabled to
carry enough fuel for full fifteen days' consumption, or about one
hundred and seventy-five tons.
The small island of Singapore being situated just off the southern
extremity of the peninsula of Malacca, from which it is separated only
by a very narrow strait, must necessarily lie almost directly in the
track of all vessels passing up or down the straits of Malacca, either
to or from China, or any of the intermediate places. Being easy of
access to all the numerous half-civilized tribes and nations which
inhabit the islands of those seas, and within the influence of the
periodical winds or monsoons which, at certain seasons, embolden even
the Chinese, Siamese, and other nations to venture upon the distant
voyage, it is not surprising that in the space of a few years it should
have risen to a very high degree of importance as a commercial emporium.
The wisdom of the policy of Sir Stamford Raffles, in establishing a
free port in such an advantageous position, has been proved beyond all
previous anticipation. The perfect freedom of commercial intercourse,
without any restriction or charges of any kind, has given birth to
a yearly increasing commercial spirit among all the surrounding
nations. It is impossible to see the immense number of curious junks
and trading-vessels which arrive from all parts during the proper
season, without admiring the enterprising commercial spirit of all
those different tribes, and acknowledging the immense value to England
of similar distant outports, for the security and extension of her
commerce.
The intercourse with Singapore has been rapidly increasing every year,
but especially since the commencement of the war in China. Of course,
all our ships of war and transports touch at so convenient a place,
where supplies of every description can easily be obtained, and where
every attention and kindness are shewn to strangers, both by the
authorities and by the resident merchants. Much credit is due to the
late governor, Mr. Bonham, for the intelligence and activity which he
exhibited, in everything that could in any way forward the objects of
the expedition, and for the readiness with which he endeavoured to meet
all the wishes of those who were concerned in it. His hospitality and
personal attention was acknowledged by all.
In some respects, Singapore forms a good introduction to a first
visit to China. It has a very large Chinese population, (not less
than 20,000,) to which yearly additions are made, on the arrival of
the large trading junks, in which they come down voluntarily to seek
employment. Hundreds of them arrive in the greatest destitution,
without even the means of paying the boat-hire to enable them to reach
the shore, until they are hired by some masters. They are the principal
mechanics and labourers of the town, and also act as household
servants, while many of them are employed in the cultivation of spices
and of sugar, or in clearing land. There is no kind of labour or
employment which a Chinaman will not readily undertake; and they appear
to succeed equally well in all, with the exception of tending sheep or
cattle, which is an occupation they are little fond of.
The town has something of a Chinese aspect, from the number of Chinamen
who are employed in every capacity; and the fruits and vegetables are
principally cultivated and brought to market by people of that nation.
In Java, Penang, and elsewhere, they are also to be met with in great
numbers; which is quite sufficient to prove (were proof wanting) how
much they are naturally disposed to become a colonizing people. There
is hardly any part of the world to which a Chinaman would refuse to
go, if led and managed by some of his own countrymen. But, wherever
they go, they carry the vice of _opium-smoking_ with them, and it is
needless to say that it thrives at Singapore to its fullest extent,
and that a large revenue is annually derived from the monopoly of the
sale of the drug.
The climate of Singapore is healthy, although the soil is wet, owing to
the constant rains; and the heat is, perhaps, never excessive, although
the place is situated only about seventy miles from the equator.
It might be expected that the recent opening of the new Chinese ports,
from some of which large trading junks have annually come down to
seek their cargoes at Singapore, would prove injurious to the future
trade of the latter, since it would no longer be necessary for the
Chinese to go abroad to seek for that which will now be brought to
them at their own doors. This apprehension, however, seems to be
little entertained on the spot, because there can be little doubt,
that whatever tends to augment the general foreign trade with China
must benefit Singapore, which lies on the highroad to it, to a greater
or less extent. Singapore has nothing to fear as regards its future
commercial prosperity, which is likely rather to increase than to
diminish, in consequence of the general increase of trade with China
and the neighbouring islands.
On the 4th of November, the Nemesis resumed her voyage, and passed the
little rocky island of Pedra Branca early on the following morning.
This dangerous and sometimes half-covered rock lies nearly in the
direct track for vessels proceeding up the China Sea; and on its
southern side are two dangerous ledges or reefs, running out from it to
the distance of more than a mile, which, at high water, can scarcely
be traced above the surface. On the opposite, or northern side, there
is deep water in not less than sixteen or seventeen fathoms, close
in to the rock; and, moreover, the tides in its neighbourhood are
very irregular, not only in point of time, but also in direction
and velocity. Nor are these the only dangers to be met with in this
locality. Hence it will readily appear that a lighthouse placed upon
Pedra Branca would be of essential utility to all navigators who have
occasion to pass up or down the China Sea. A ship leaving Singapore
for Hong-Kong, for instance, might then start at such an hour in the
evening as would enable her to make the light on Pedra Branca before
morning; by which means, her true position being ascertained, she
might stand on without fear of any danger. The expense of erecting the
lighthouse would not be great, as the elevation would only be moderate,
and the expense of maintaining it might be defrayed by levying a small
light-duty at Singapore upon all vessels passing up or down the China
Sea.
It has been often suggested that this would be a most advantageous site
for the proposed monument to the memory of the distinguished Horsburgh,
to whom too much honour cannot be paid for his inestimable works, so
much relied on by all navigators who frequent the eastern seas. It
would be difficult to find a more advantageous or appropriate position,
for the best of all monuments to his fame, than this little, dangerous
island of Pedra Branca, situated as it is in the very centre of some of
his most valued researches; while the recent opening of the new ports
in China, and the possession of Hong-Kong, give an increased importance
to subjects connected with the navigation of those seas. There is not
a single vessel, either British or foreign, which traverses those
regions, which is not indebted to Horsburgh for the instructions which
render her voyage secure; and a lighthouse upon Pedra Branca would do
no less service to navigators than it would honour to the memory of
Horsburgh.
The Nemesis had now passed this rocky little island, and at once found
the full strength of the north-east monsoon blowing steadily against
her, so that "full steam" was necessary to enable her to proceed. On
the afternoon of the 16th, the high land of the Spanish possessions of
Luconia (better known by the name of the capital town, Manilla) came in
sight; and, on the following morning, the Nemesis passed very near the
port, but without venturing to enter it, on account of the delay which
it would cause, although fuel was already much wanted.
The appearance of the island was very striking. Bold, picturesque
mountains, fine woods, with here and there a few sugar plantations
extending along the valleys, and rich, green, cocoa-nut groves, to vary
the prospect--all these combined, or alternating with each other, made
the aspect of the island very attractive.
Unfortunately, no time could be spared to visit the interior of the
country, as the voyage had already been much protracted, and the
north-east monsoon was blowing directly against the vessel. Her
progress was therefore slow, and the want of fuel began to be much felt.
On the 24th, the Lieu-chew Islands came in sight; but these are not the
same islands which were visited by Capt. Basil Hall, whose descriptions
excited so much attention.[12]
At daylight on the following morning, the 25th of November, the Nemesis
steamed through the Typa anchorage, which lies opposite Macao, and
ran close in to the town, where the water is so shallow that none but
trading-boats can venture so far. The sudden appearance of so large and
mysterious-looking a vessel naturally excited the greatest astonishment
among all classes, both of the Portuguese and Chinese residents. The
saluting of the Portuguese flag, as she passed, sufficed to announce
that something unusual had happened; and crowds of people came down to
the Praya Grande, or Esplanade, to look at the first iron steamer which
had ever anchored in their quiet little bay. Her very light draught of
water seemed to them quite incompatible with her size; and even the
Portuguese governor was so much taken by surprise, that he sent off a
messenger expressly to the vessel, to warn her captain of the supposed
danger which he ran by venturing so close in shore. It is probable,
however, that his excellency was not quite satisfied with the near
approach of an armed steamer, within a short range of his own palace;
and, moreover, the firing of a salute, almost close under his windows,
had speedily frightened away the fair ladies who had been observed
crowding at all the windows with eager curiosity.
As soon as the first excitement had passed, Captain Hall waited upon
the governor, to assure him that he had come with the most peaceable
intentions, and to thank his excellency for the friendly warning he
had given, with respect to the safety of the vessel. At the same time,
he begged to inform his excellency, that he was already thoroughly
acquainted with the harbour and anchorage of Macao, from early
recollection of all those localities, as he had served as midshipman on
board the Lyra, during Lord Amherst's embassy to China, in 1816.
It was now ascertained that the English admiral, the Hon. George
Elliot, was at anchor with his fleet in Tongkoo roads, below the Bogue
forts; and, accordingly, the Nemesis proceeded to join the squadron,
after the delay of only a few hours. Her arrival was announced by the
salute to the admiral's flag, which was immediately returned by the
Melville, precisely as if the Nemesis had been a regular man-of-war.
The Nemesis now found herself in company with the three line-of-battle
ships, Wellesley, Melville, and Blenheim, together with H.M.S. Druid,
Herald, Modeste, Hyacinth, and the Jupiter troop-ship. Thus, then,
after all her toil and hardships, the gallant Nemesis had at length
reached the proud post towards which she had so long been struggling.
Her voyage from England had, indeed, been a long one, very nearly eight
months having elapsed since she bade adieu to Portsmouth. But her
trials had been many during that period. She had started in the worst
season of the year, and had encountered, throughout nearly the whole
voyage, unusual weather and unforeseen difficulties. She had happily
survived them all, and the efforts which had been already made to
enable her to earn for herself a name gave happy promise of her future
destiny.
The excitement on board was general, now that she at length found her
_iron_ frame swinging, side by side, with the famed "wooden walls"
of England's glory; and the prospect of immediate service, in active
operations against the enemy, stimulated the exertions of every
individual. For some days, however, she was compelled to content
herself with the unwelcome operation of "coaling" in Tongkoo Bay.
In the meantime, the ships of war had sailed, leaving her to follow
them as soon as she could be got ready; and now, while this black and
tedious process is going on, we cannot be better employed than in
taking a short survey of the events which had immediately preceded
her arrival, and of the more important occurrences which led to such
momentous consequences.
FOOTNOTE:
[12] Captain Hall of the Nemesis was at that time serving as midshipman
under Capt. Basil Hall.