_From Nagasaki to Kokura—Shimonoseki—Water Journey to
Ōsaka—Description of that City—Its Castle—Interview with the
Governors—From Ōsaka to Miyako—Jodo and its Castle—Fushimi—Entrance
into Miyako—Visit to the Chief Justice and the Governors—Description
of Miyako—Palace of the Dairi—Castle—Manufactures and Trade—Authority
of the Chief Justice—Police—Crimes._
At coming out of Nagasaki, on his first journey to court (Tuesday,
February 13, 1691), Kämpfer noticed the idol Jizō, the god of the roads
and protector of travellers, hewn out of the rock in nine different
places. At the next village stood another of the same sort, about three
feet in height, on a stone pillar twice as high, and adorned with
flowers. Two other smaller stone pillars, hollow at top, stood before
the idol, upon which were placed lamps, for travellers to light in its
honor; and at some distance stood a basin of water, in which to wash
the hands before lighting the lamps.
The first twelve miles’ travelling, which was very steep and
mountainous, brought the company to the shores of the bay of Ōmura,
which they found too shallow for vessels of size; but by crossing it
in boats, furnished by the prince of Ōmura, each rowed by fourteen
watermen, they saved a distance of ten miles or more. The distance
across was thirty miles. The town of Ōmura was seen on the right at the
head of the bay, and beyond it a smoking mountain. The shells of this
bay were reported to yield pearls.[11]
The second day (Wednesday, February 14) they passed an old
camphor-tree, estimated to be thirty-six feet in circumference, and
hollow within.[12] At Shiwota, where they dined, a seaport on the
gulf of Shimabara, was a manufactory of large earthen pots, used by
vessels as water-cakes, and also of china ware, made of a whitish,
fat clay, abundant in that neighborhood. The same day they visited a
hot spring, much frequented for its medicinal effects, and provided
with accommodations for bathing. There are several others in the
neighborhood.[13]
Saga, the capital of the province of Hizen, through which they passed
the next day (Thursday, February 15), without stopping, was found to
be a considerable place, situated not far from the western border of
the province, near the head of the bay of Shimabara. “The city,” says
Kämpfer, “is very large, but extends more in length than in breadth.
It is exceedingly populous. Both going in and coming out we found
strong guards at the gates. It is enclosed with walls, but more for
state than defence. The prince or petty king of this province resides
here in a large castle, which commands the city. The streets are
large, with streams of water flowing through them. The houses are but
sorry and low, and in the chief streets fitted up for manufacturers
and shopkeepers. The inhabitants are very short, but well shaped,
particularly the women, who are handsomer, I think, than in any other
Asiatic country, but so much painted that one would be apt to take them
for wax figures rather than living creatures. Many were noticed who
seemed little more than girls, yet evidently the mothers of several
children. These women of Hizen have the reputation of being the
handsomest in Japan, next to those of Miyako. This province, though
less wealthy than that of Satsuma, is reputed to be about the most
fertile in all Japan, being particularly famous for its rice, of which
it produces ten different sorts or qualities, one of which is reserved
for the special use of the emperor. The rice-fields were observed to be
bordered with tea-shrubs about six feet high; but as they were stripped
of their leaves, they made but a naked and sorry appearance.”
In the afternoon our travellers passed into the province of Chikugo,
and having traversed a small but very pleasant wood of firs,—a rare
sight in the flat parts of the country,—they saw at a distance the
castle of Kurume, the residence of the prince of the province.[14]
Friday, February 16, mountains were encountered, which they passed in
kago, as the road was too steep for horseback-riding. This country,
forming a part of the province of Chikuzen, struck Kämpfer as not
unlike some mountainous and woody parts of Germany, but no cattle were
seen grazing, except a few cows and horses for carriage and ploughing.
The people were less handsome than those of Hizen, but extremely civil.
The next day (February 17), after passing, in the afternoon, some
coal-mines, whence the neighborhood was supplied with fuel, they
reached Kokura, capital of the province of Buzen, once a large town,
but now much decayed. It had a large castle of freestone, with a
few cannon and a tower of six stories, the usual sign of princely
residences. A river passed through the town, crossed by a bridge near
two hundred yards long, but it was too shallow to admit vessels of any
size. At least one hundred small boats were drawn up on the banks. On
leaving their inn where they had stopped to dine, the Dutch found the
square in front of it, as well as the bridge, crowded with upwards of
a thousand spectators, chiefly ordinary people, who had collected to
see them, and who knelt in profound silence, without motion or noise.
The distance of this place from Nagasaki was reckoned at fifty-five
Japanese miles, and had consumed five days.
[Illustration: IMAGE OF JIZŌ]
Embarking in boats, the Dutch travellers crossed the strait which
separates Shimo from Nippon, narrower here than anywhere else, less
than three miles wide, though the town of Shimonoseki, which gives its
name to the strait, being situated at the bottom of an inlet, is
near twelve miles from Kokura. This town, in the province of Nagato,
consisted of four or five hundred houses, built chiefly on both sides
of one long street, with a few smaller ones terminating in it. It is
full of shops for selling provisions and stores to the ships, which
daily put in for shelter or supplies, and of which not less than two
hundred were seen at anchor. It also had a temple to Amida, built
to appease the ghost of a young prince of the family of Heishi, so
celebrated in the legendary annals of the Japanese, whose nurse, with
the boy in her arms, is said to have thrown herself headlong into the
strait to avoid capture by his father’s enemies, at the time of the
ruin of that family.
The voyage from Shimonoseki to Ōsaka was reckoned at one hundred and
thirty-four Japanese water-miles, and was made in six days, the vessel
coming to anchor every night in good harbors, with which the coast
abounds. This voyage lay first through the strait between Shimo and
Nippon, and then through the strait or sea between Nippon and Shikoku,
which was full of islands, some cultivated, others mere rocks. On the
main land on either side snow-covered mountains were visible. The barge
could proceed no further than Hyōgo, a city of the province Settsu,
nearly as large as Nagasaki. Here the company embarked in small boats
for Ōsaka. As they passed along they saw at a distance the imperial
city of Sakai, three or four Japanese miles south from Ōsaka. The
description of Ōsaka, and of the journey thence to Miyako, is thus
given by Kämpfer:
“Ōsaka, one of the five imperial cities, is agreeably seated in
the province of Settsu, in a fruitful plain, and on the banks of a
navigable river. At the east end is a strong castle; and at the western
end, two strong, stately guard-houses, which separate it from its
suburbs. Its length from these suburbs to the above-mentioned castle
is between three and four thousand yards. Its breadth is somewhat
less. The river Yodogawa runs on the north side, and below the city
falls into the sea. This river rises a day and a half’s journey to
the northeast, out of a midland lake in the province of Ōmi, which,
according to Japanese histories, arose in one night, that spot which it
now fills being sunk in a violent earthquake. Coming out of this lake,
it runs by the small towns Uji and Yodo, from which latter it borrows
its name, and so continues down to Ōsaka. About a mile before it comes
to this city, it sends off one of its arms straight to the sea. This
want, if any, is supplied by two other rivers, both which flow into it
just above the city, on the north side of the castle, where there are
stately bridges over them. The united stream having washed one third
of the city, part of its waters are conveyed through a broad canal to
supply the south part, which is also the larger, and that where the
richest inhabitants live. For this purpose several smaller channels
cut from the large one, pass through some of the chief streets, deep
enough to be navigable for small boats, which bring goods to the
merchant’s doors—though some are muddy, and not too clean, for want of
a sufficient quantity and run of water. Upwards of an hundred bridges,
many extraordinarily beautiful, are built over them.
“A little below the coming out of the above-mentioned canal another arm
arises on the north side of the great stream, which is shallow and not
navigable, but runs down westward, with great rapidity, till it loses
itself in the sea. The middle and great stream still continues its
course through the city, at the lower end whereof it turns westward,
and having supplied the suburbs and villages which lie without the
city, by many lateral branches, at last loses itself in the sea through
several mouths. This river is narrow, indeed, but deep and navigable.
From its mouth up as far as Ōsaka, and higher, there are seldom less
than a thousand boats going up and down, some with merchants, others
with the princes and lords who live to the west, on their way to and
from Yedo. The banks are raised on both sides into ten or more steps,
coarsely hewn of freestone, so that they look like one continued
stairs, and one may land wherever he pleases. Stately bridges are laid
over the river at every three or four hundred paces’ distance. They are
built of cedar wood, and are railed on both sides, some of the rails
being adorned at top with brass buttons. I counted in all ten such
bridges, three whereof were particularly remarkable, because of their
length, being laid over the great arm of the river where it is broadest.
“The streets, in the main, are narrow but regular, cutting each other
at right angles. From this regularity, however, we must except that
part of the city which lies towards the sea, because the streets
there run along the several branches of the river. The streets are
very neat, though not paved. However, for the conveniency of walking,
there is a small pavement of square stones along the houses on each
side of the street. At the end of every street are strong gates, which
are shut at night, when nobody is suffered to pass from one street to
another without special leave and a passport from the Otona, or street
officer. There is also in every street a place railed in, where they
keep all the necessary instruments in case of fire. Not far from it is
a covered well, for the same purpose. The houses are, according to
the custom of the country, not above two stories high, each story of
nine or twelve feet. They are built of wood, lime, and clay. The front
offers to the spectator’s eye the door, and a shop where the merchants
sell their goods, or else an open room where artificers, openly and
in everybody’s sight, exercise their trade. From the upper end of the
shop or room hangs down a piece of black cloth, partly for ornament,
partly to defend them in some measure from the wind and weather. At the
same place hang some fine patterns of what is sold in the shop. The
roof is flat, and in good houses covered with black tiles laid in lime.
The roofs of ordinary houses are covered only with shavings of wood.
Within doors all the houses are kept clean and neat to admiration. The
staircases, rails, and all the wainscoting, are varnished. The floors
are covered with neat mats. The rooms are separated from each other by
screens, upon removal of which several small rooms may be enlarged into
one, or the contrary done if needful. The walls are hung with shining
paper, curiously painted with gold and silver flowers. The upper part
of the wall, for some inches down from the ceiling, is commonly left
empty, and only clayed with an orange-colored clay, which is dug up
about this city, and is, because of its beautiful color, exported into
other provinces. The mats, doors, and screens are all of the same size,
six Japanese feet long and three broad. The houses themselves, and
their several rooms, are built proportionably according to a certain
number of mats, more or less. There is commonly a curious garden behind
the house, such as I have described elsewhere. Behind the garden is
the bathing-stove, and sometimes a vault, or rather a small room,
with strong walls of clay and lime, to preserve, in case of fire, the
richest household goods and furniture.
“Ōsaka is extremely populous, and if we believe what the boasting
Japanese tell us, can raise an army of eighty thousand men from
among its inhabitants. It is the best trading town in Japan, being
extraordinarily well situated for carrying on a commerce both by
land and water. This is the reason why it is so well inhabited by
rich merchants, artificers and manufacturers. Provisions are cheap,
notwithstanding the city is so well peopled. Whatever tends to promote
luxury, and to gratify all sensual pleasures, may be had at as easy a
rate here as anywhere, and for this reason the Japanese call Ōsaka the
universal theatre of pleasures and diversions. Plays are to be seen
daily, both in public and in private houses. Mountebanks, jugglers, who
can show some artful tricks, and all the raree-show people who have
either some uncommon, or monstrous animal to exhibit, or animals taught
to play tricks, resort thither from all parts of the empire, being
sure to get a better penny here than anywhere else.[15] Hence it is no
wonder that numbers of strangers and travellers daily resort thither,
chiefly rich people, as to a place where they can spend their time
and money with much greater satisfaction than perhaps anywhere else
in the empire. The western princes and lords on this side Ōsaka all
have houses in this city, and people to attend them in their passage
through, and yet they are not permitted to stay longer than a night,
besides that upon their departure they are obliged to follow a road
entirely out of sight of the castle.
“The water which is drank at Ōsaka tastes a little brackish; but
in lieu of thereof they have the best sake in the empire, which is
brewed in great quantities in the neighboring village, Tennōji, and
from thence exported into most other provinces, nay, by the Dutch and
Chinese, out of the country.
“On the east side of the city, in a large plain, lies the famous castle
built by Taikō-Sama [Toyotomi Hideyoshi]. Going up to Miyako we pass
by it. It is square, about an hour’s walking in circumference, and
strongly fortified with round bastions, according to the military
architecture of the country. After the castle of Higo, it hath not its
superior in extent, magnificence, and strength, throughout the whole
empire. On the north side it is defended by the river Yodogawa, which
washes its walls. On the east side its walls are washed by a tributary
river, on the opposite bank of which lies a great garden belonging to
the castle. The south and west sides border upon the city. The moles,
or buttresses, which support the outward wall, are of an uncommon
bigness, I believe at least forty-two feet thick. They are built to
support a high, strong brick wall, lined with freestone, which at its
upper end is planted with a row of firs or cedars.
“The day after our arrival (Sunday, February 25) we were admitted to
an audience of the governor of the city, to which we were carried in
kago, attended by our whole train of interpreters and other officers.
It is half an hour’s walking from our inn to the governor’s palace,
which lies at the end of the city in a square opposite the castle. Just
before the house we stepped out of our kago, and put on each a silk
cloak, which is reckoned equal to the garment of ceremony which the
Japanese wear on these occasions. Through a passage thirty paces long
we came into the hall, or guard-house, where we were received by two
of the governor’s gentlemen, who very civilly desired us to sit down.
Four soldiers stood upon duty on our left as we came in, and next to
them we found eight other officers of the governor’s court, all sitting
upon their knees and ankles. The wall on our right was hung with
arms, ranged in a proper order, fifteen halberds on one side, twenty
lances in the middle, and nineteen pikes on the other; the latter were
adorned at the upper end with fringes. Hence we were conducted by two
of the governor’s secretaries through four rooms (which, however, upon
removing the screens, might have been enlarged into one) into the hall
of audience. I took notice, as we came by, that the walls were hung
and adorned with bows, with sabres and scymitars, as also with some
fire-arms, kept in rich black varnished cases.
“In the hall of audience, where there were seven of the governor’s
gentlemen sitting, the two secretaries sat down at three paces’
distance from us, and treated us with tea, carrying on a very civil
conversation with us till the governor appeared, as he soon did, with
two of his sons, one seventeen, the other eighteen years of age, and
sat down at ten paces’ distance in another room, which was laid open
towards the hall of audience by removing three lattices, through which
he spoke to us.
“He seemed to be about forty years of age, middle-sized, strong,
active, of a manly countenance and broad-faced; very civil in his
conversation, and speaking with a great deal of softness and modesty.
He was but meanly clad in black, and wore a gray garment of ceremony
over his dress. He wore, also, but one ordinary scymitar. His
conversation turned chiefly upon the following points: That the weather
was now very cold; that we had made a very great journey; that it was a
singular favor to be admitted into the emperor’s presence; that, of all
nations in the world, only the Dutch were allowed this honor.
“He promised us that, since the chief justice of Miyako, whose business
it is to give us the necessary passports for our journey to court,
was not yet returned from Yedo, he would give us his own passports,
which would be full as valid, and that we might send for them the next
morning. He also assured us that he was very willing to assist us with
horses and whatever else we might stand in need of for continuing our
journey.
[Illustration: AN ANCIENT WARRIOR]
“On our side, we returned him thanks for his kind offers, and desired
that he would be pleased to accept of a small present, consisting of
some pieces of silk stuffs, as an acknowledgment of our gratitude.
We also made some presents to the two secretaries or stewards of his
household; and, having taken our leave, were by them conducted back
to the guard-house. Here we took our leave also of them, and returned
through the above-mentioned passage back to our kago. Our interpreters
permitted us to walk a little way, which gave us an opportunity to view
the outside of the above-described famous castle. We then entered
our kago and were carried back through another long street to our inn.
“Wednesday, February 28, we set out by break of day on our journey
to Miyako, because we intended to reach that place the same day, it
being but thirteen Japanese miles, or a good day’s journey, distant
from Ōsaka, out of which we came by the Kyōbashi, or bridge to Miyako,
which crosses the river just below the castle. We then travelled about
a mile through muddy rice-fields riding along a low dike raised on the
banks of the river Yodogawa, which we had on our left. Multitudes of
Tsadanil (?) trees, which grow as tall in this country as oaks do with
us, were planted along it. It had then no leaves, because of the winter
season, but its branches hung full of a yellow fruit, out of which the
natives prepare an oil. The country hereabouts is extraordinarily well
inhabited, and the many villages along the road are so near each other
that there wants little towards making it one continued street from
Ōsaka to Miyako.
“The small but famous city, Yodo, is entirely enclosed with water, and
hath besides several canals cut through the town, all derived from the
arms of the river which encompasses it. The suburbs consist of one
long street, across which we rode to a stately wooden bridge, called
Yodobashi, four hundred paces long, and supported by forty arches, to
which answer so many ballisters, adorned at the upper end with brass
buttons. At the end of this bridge is a single well-guarded gate,
through which we entered the city. The city itself is very pleasant and
agreeably situated, and hath very good houses, though but few streets,
which cut each other at right angles, running some south, some east.
Abundance of artificers and handicraftsmen live at Yodo. On the west
side lies the castle, built of brick, in the middle of the river, with
stately towers several stories high at each corner, and in the middle
of its walls. Coming out of Yodo, we again passed over a bridge two
hundred paces long, supported by twenty arches, which brought us into a
suburb, at the end of which was a strong guard-house.
“After about two hours’ riding we came, at two in the afternoon, to
Fushimi. This is a small, open town, or rather village, of a few
streets, of which the middle and chief reaches as far as Miyako, and is
contiguous to the streets of that capital, insomuch that Fushimi might
be called the suburbs of Miyako, the rather since this last city is not
at all enclosed with walls. It was to-day Tsuitachi with the Japanese,
that is, the first day of the month, which they keep as a Sunday or
holiday, visiting the temples, walking into the fields, and following
all manner of diversions. Accordingly we found this street, along
which we rode for full four hours before we got to our inn, crowded
with multitudes of the inhabitants of Miyako, walking out of the city
to take the air, and to visit the neighboring temples. Particularly
the women were all on this occasion richly apparelled in variously
colored gowns, wearing a purple-colored silk about the forehead, and
large straw hats to defend themselves from the heat of the sun. We
likewise met some particular sorts of beggars, comically clad, and some
masked in a very ridiculous manner. Not a few walked upon iron stilts;
others carried large pots with green trees upon their heads; some were
singing, some whistling, some fluting, others beating of bells. All
along the street we saw multitudes of open shops, jugglers and players
diverting the crowd.
“The temples which we had on our right as we went up, built in the
ascent of the neighboring green hills, were illuminated with many
lamps, and the priests, beating some bells with iron hammers, made
such a noise as could be heard at a considerable distance. I took
notice of a large, white dog, perhaps made of plaster, which stood
upon an altar on our left, in a neatly-adorned chapel or small temple,
which was consecrated to the Patron of the dogs. We reached our inn at
Miyako at six in the evening, and were forthwith carried up one pair
of stairs into our apartments, which in some measure, I thought, might
be compared to the Westphalian smoking rooms, wherein they smoke their
beef and bacon.
“We had travelled to-day through a very fruitful country, mostly
through rice-fields, wherein we saw great flocks of wild ducks, if they
deserve to be so called, being so very tame that no travelling company
approaching will fright them away. We took notice also of several
large, white herons, some swans, and some few storks, looking for their
food in the morassy fields. We likewise saw the peasants ploughing with
black oxen, which seemed to be lean, poor beasts, but are said to work
well.
“February 29, early in the morning, we sent the presents for the
chief justice and the governors to their palaces, laid, according to
the country fashion, upon particular small tables made of fir, and
kept for no other use but this. We followed soon after, about ten
in the forenoon, in kago. Their palaces were at the west end of the
city, opposite the castle of the Dairi. We were conducted through
a court-yard, twenty paces broad, into the hall or fore-room of
the house, which is called _Ban_, or the chief guard, and is the
rendezvous of numbers of clerks, inspectors, etc. Hence we were taken,
through two other rooms, into a third, where they desired us to sit
down. Soon after came in his lordship’s steward, an old gentleman who
seemed upwards of sixty years of age, clad in a gray or ash-colored
honor-gown, who seated himself at about four paces from us, in order to
receive, in his master’s name, both our compliments and presents, which
stood in the same room, laid out in a becoming order. They consisted of
a flask of Tent wine, besides twenty pieces of silk, woollen, and linen
stuffs. The steward having very civilly returned us thanks for our
presents, boxes with tobacco and pipes and proper utensils for smoking
were set before us, and a dish of tea was presented to each of us by a
servant, at three different times, the steward and the chief gentlemen
pressing us to drink. Having stayed about a quarter of an hour, we took
our leave, and were conducted by the steward himself to the door of
their room, and thence by other officers back to the gate.
“This first visit being over, we walked thence on foot to the palace
of the commanding governor, who was but lately arrived from Yedo. Some
sentinels stood upon duty at the gate, and in the _ban_, or hall, we
found very near fifty people besides some young boys, neatly clad, all
sitting in very good order. Through this hall we were conducted into a
side apartment, where we were civilly received by the two secretaries,
both elderly men, and were treated with tea, sugar, etc.; receiving,
also, repeated assurances that we should be soon admitted into the
governor’s presence.
“Having stayed full half an hour in this room, we were conducted into
another, where, after a little while, the lattices of two screens
being suddenly opened just over against us, the governor appeared,
sitting at fourteen paces distant. He wore, as usual, a garment of
ceremony over his black dress. He seemed to be about thirty-six years
of age, of a strong, lusty constitution, and showed in his countenance
and whole behavior a good deal of pride and vanity. After a short
conversation we desired that he would be pleased to accept of our small
present, consisting of twelve pieces of stuffs, which lay upon a table,
or salver, in the manner above described. He thereupon bowed a little,
to return us thanks, and putting himself in a rising posture, the two
lattices were let down forthwith, in a very comical manner. But we were
desired to stay a little while longer, that the ladies—who were in a
neighboring room, behind a paper screen pierced with holes—might have
an opportunity of contemplating us and our foreign dress. Our president
was desired to show them his hat, sword, watch, and several other
things he had about him, as also to take off his cloak, that they might
have a full view of his dress, both before and behind. Having stayed
about an hour in the house of this governor, we were conducted by the
two secretaries back to the hall, or chief guard, and thence by two
inferior officers into the yard.
“It being fair weather, we resolved to walk on foot to the house of
the other governor, some hundred paces distant. We were received there
much after the manner above described. After we had been treated in
the _ban_ with tea and tobacco, as usual, we were conducted, through
several rooms, into the hall of audience, which was richly furnished,
and, amongst other things, adorned with a cabinet filled with bows and
arrows, small fire-arms, guns and pistols, kept in black varnished
cases. These, and other arms, we took notice, were hung up in several
other rooms through which we passed, much after the same manner as in
the governor’s house at Ōsaka. On one side the hall we took notice of
two screens, pierced with holes, behind which sat some women, whom
the curiosity of seeing people from so remote a part of the world had
drawn thither. We had scarce sat down, when the governor appeared, and
sat himself down at ten paces from us. He was clad in black, as usual,
with a garment of ceremony. He was a gray man, almost sixty years of
age, but of a good complexion, and very handsome. He bade us welcome,
showed in his whole behavior a great deal of civility, and received
our presents kindly, and with seeming great satisfaction. Our chief
interpreter took this opportunity to make the governor, as his old
acquaintance, some private presents in his own name, consisting of
some European glasses, and, in the mean time, to beg a favor for his
deputy’s interpreter’s son. Having taken our leave, we returned to our
kago, and were carried home to our inn, where we arrived at one in the
afternoon.
“Kiō, or Miyako, signifies in Japanese, a city. (Klaproth says, great
temple or palace.) It lies in the province Yamato[16] in a large plain,
and is, from north to south, three English miles long, and two broad
from east to west, surrounded with pleasant green hills and mountains,
from which arise numbers of small rivers and agreeable streams. The
city comes nearest the mountains on the east side, where there are
numerous temples, monasteries, chapels, and other religious buildings,
standing in the ascent. Three shallow rivers enter, or run by it, on
that side. The chief and largest comes out of the Lake Ōtsu;[17] the
other two from the neighboring mountains. They come together about
the middle of the city, where the united stream is crossed by a large
bridge, two hundred paces long. The Dairi, with his family and court,
resides on the north side of the city, in a particular part or ward,
consisting of twelve or thirteen streets, separated from the rest by
walls and ditches. In the western part of the town is a strong castle
of freestone, built by one of the hereditary emperors, for the security
of his person during the civil wars. At present it serves to lodge
the Kubō, or actual monarch, when he comes to visit the Dairi. It is
upwards of a thousand feet long where longest; a deep ditch, filled
with water, and walled in, surrounds it, and is enclosed itself by a
broad empty space, or dry ditch. In the middle of this castle there is,
as usual, a square tower, several stories high. In the ditch are kept a
particular sort of delicious carps, some of which were presented this
evening to our interpreter. A small garrison guards the castle, under
the command of a captain.
“The streets of Miyako are narrow, but all regular, running some south,
some east. Being at one end of a great street, it is impossible to
reach the other with the eye, because of their extraordinary length,
the dust, and the multitude of people. The houses are, generally
speaking, narrow, only two stories high, built of wood, lime, and clay,
according to the country fashion.
“Miyako is the great magazine of all Japanese manufactures and
commodities, and the chief mercantile town in the empire. There is
scarce a house in this large capital where there is not something made
or sold. Here they refine copper, coin money, print books, weave the
richest stuffs, with gold and silver flowers. The best and scarcest
dyes, the most artful carvings, all sorts of musical instruments,
pictures, japanned cabinets, all sorts of things wrought in gold and
other metals, particularly in steel, as the best tempered blades, and
other arms, are made here in the utmost perfection, as are, also,
the richest dresses, and after the best fashion, all sorts of toys,
puppets, moving their heads of themselves, and, in short, there is
nothing can be thought of but what may be found at Miyako, and nothing,
though never so neatly wrought, can be imported from abroad, but what
some artist or other in this capital will undertake to imitate it.
Considering this, it is no wonder that the manufactures of Miyako are
become so famous throughout the empire as to be easily preferred to all
others (though, perhaps, inferior in some particulars), only because
they have the name of being made there. There are but few houses in all
the chief streets where there is not something to be sold, and, for my
part, I could not help admiring whence they can have customers enough
for such an immense quantity of goods. ’Tis true, indeed, there is
scarce anybody passes through but what buys something or other of the
manufactures of this city, either for his own use, or for presents to
be made to his friends and relations.
[Illustration: AN ARCHER]
“The lord chief justice resides at Miyako, a man of great power and
authority, as having the supreme command, under the emperor, of all
the bugiō, governors, stewards, and other officers, who are any ways
concerned in the government of the imperial cities, crown lands and
tenements, in all the western provinces of the empire. Even the western
princes themselves must, in some measure, depend on him, and have a
great regard to his person as a mediator and compounder of quarrels and
difficulties that may arise between them. Nobody is suffered to pass
through Arai and Hakone, two of the most important passes, and, in a
manner, the keys of the imperial capital and court, without a passport,
signed by his hand.
“The political government and regulation of the streets is the same
at Miyako as it is at Ōsaka and Nagasaki. The number of inhabitants
of Miyako, in the year of our visit, will appear by the following
_Aratame_[18] (exclusive, however, of those who live in the castle and
at the Dairi’s court).”
Negi (persons attending the Shintō temples) 9,003
Yamabushi (mountain priests) 6,073
Shukke (ecclesiastics of the Buddhist religion) 37,093
Buddhist laymen, of four principal and eight
inferior sects or observances[19] 477,557
Tera (Buddhist temples) 3,893
Miya (Shintō temples) 2,127
Shokoku Daimyō Yashiki (palaces and houses
of the princes and lords of the empire) 137
Machi (streets) 1,858
Ken (houses) 138,979
Hashi (bridges) 87