CHAPTER I

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MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR

by

Sir RAY LANKESTER

K.C.B., F.R.S.

With 34 Illustrations

Methuen & Co. Ltd.

36 Essex Street, W.C.

London

* * * * *

Uniform with this Volume

1 The Mighty Atom Marie Corelli

2 Jane Marie Corelli

3 Boy Marie Corelli

231 Cameos Marie Corelli

4 Spanish Gold G. A. Birmingham

9 The Unofficial Honeymoon Doll Wyllarde

18 Round the Red Lamp Sir A. Conan Doyle

20 Light Freights W. W. Jacobs

22 The Long Road John Oxenham

71 The Gates of Wrath Arnold Bennett

81 The Card Arnold Bennett

87 Lalage's Lovers G. A. Birmingham

92 White Fang Jack London

108 The Adventures of Dr. Whitty G. A. Birmingham

113 Lavender and Old Lace Myrtle Reed

125 The Regent Arnold Bennett

135 A Spinner in the Sun Myrtle Reed

137 The Mystery of Dr. Fu-Manchu Sax Rohmer

143 Sandy Married Dorothea Conyers

212 Under Western Eyes Joseph Conrad

215 Mr. Grex of Monte Carlo E. Phillips Oppenheim

224 Broken Shackles John Oxenham

227 Byeways Robert Hichens

229 My Friend the Chauffeur C. N. & A. M. Williamson

259 Anthony Cuthbert Richard Bagot

261 Tarzan of the Apes Edgar Rice Burroughs

268 His Island Princess W. Clark Russell

275 Secret History C. N. and A. M. Williamson

276 Mary All-alone John Oxenham

277 Darneley Place Richard Bagot

278 The Desert Trail Dane Coolidge

279 The War Wedding C. N. and A. M. Williamson

281 Because of these Things Marjorie Bowen

282 Mrs. Peter Howard Mary E. Mann

288 A Great Man Arnold Bennett

289 The Rest Cure W. B. Maxwell

290 The Devil Doctor Sax Rohmer

291 Master of the Vineyard Myrtle Reed

293 The Si-Fan Mysteries Sax Rohmer

294 The Guiding Thread Beatrice Harraden

295 The Hillman E. Phillips Oppenheim

296 William, by the Grace of God Marjorie Bowen

297 Below Stairs Mrs. Alfred Sidgwick

301 Love and Louisa E. Maria Albanesi

302 The Joss Richard Marsh

303 The Carissima Lucas Malet

304 The Return of Tarzan Edgar Rice Burroughs

313 The Wall Street Girl Frederick Orin Bartlett

315 The Flying Inn G. K. Chesterton

316 Whom God Hath Joined Arnold Bennett

318 An Affair of State J. C. Snaith

320 The Dweller on the Threshold Robert Hichens

325 A Set of Six Joseph Conrad

329 '1914' John Oxenham

330 The Fortune of Christina McNab S. Macnaughtan

334 Bellamy Elinor Mordaunt

343 The Shadow of Victory Myrtle Reed

344 This Woman to this Man C. N. and A. M. Williamson

345 Something Fresh P. G. Wodehouse

A short Selection only.

Uniform with this Volume

36 De Profundis Oscar Wilde

37 Lord Arthur Savile's Crime Oscar Wilde

38 Selected Poems Oscar Wilde

39 An Ideal Husband Oscar Wilde

40 Intentions Oscar Wilde

41 Lady Windermere's Fan Oscar Wilde

77 Selected Prose Oscar Wilde

85 The Importance of Being Earnest Oscar Wilde

146 A Woman of No Importance Oscar Wilde

43 Harvest Home E. V. Lucas

44 A Little of Everything E. V. Lucas

78 The Best of Lamb E. V. Lucas

141 Variety Lane E. V. Lucas

292 Mixed Vintages E. V. Lucas

45 Vailima Letters Robert Louis Stevenson

80 Selected Letters Robert Louis Stevenson

46 Hills and the Sea Hilaire Belloc

96 A Picked Company Hilaire Belloc

193 On Nothing Hilaire Belloc

226 On Everything Hilaire Belloc

254 On Something Hilaire Belloc

47 The Blue Bird Maurice Maeterlinck

214 Select Essays Maurice Maeterlinck

50 Charles Dickens G. K. Chesterton

94 All Things Considered G. K. Chesterton

54 The Life of John Ruskin W. G. Collingwood

57 Sevastopol and other Stories Leo Tolstoy

91 Social Evils and their Remedy Leo Tolstoy

223 Two Generations Leo Tolstoy

253 My Childhood and Boyhood Leo Tolstoy

286 My Youth Leo Tolstoy

58 The Lore of the Honey-Bee Tickner Edwardes

63 Oscar Wilde Arthur Ransome

64 The Vicar of Morwenstow S. Baring-Gould

76 Home Life in France M. Betham-Edwards

83 Reason and Belief Sir Oliver Lodge

93 The Substance of Faith Sir Oliver Lodge

116 The Survival of Man Sir Oliver Lodge

284 Modern Problems Sir Oliver Lodge

95 The Mirror of the Sea Joseph Conrad

126 Science from an Easy Chair Sir Ray Lankester

149 A Shepherd's Life W. H. Hudson

200 Jane Austen and her Times G. E. Mitton

218 R. L. S. Francis Watt

234 Records and Reminiscences Sir Francis Burnand

285 The Old Time Parson P. H. Ditchfield

287 The Customs of Old England F. J. Snell

A Selection only.

* * * * *

MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR

_First Issued in this Cheap Form in 1920_

_Originally published by Messrs. Adlard & Son in 1913_

_First published by Methuen & Co. Ltd. 1914_

_Second Edition 1915_

_Third Edition 1920_

PREFACE

The present volume is a reprint of that issued in 1912 with the title,

"Science from an Easy Chair: Second Series." It consists, like its

predecessors, of chapters originally published by me in the _Daily

Telegraph_, which I have revised and illustrated by a large number of

drawings. In order to render the issue of the present cheap edition

possible, it has been found necessary to restrict its size a little by

the omission of chapters dealing with Glaciers, Ferns and Fern-seed,

and the history of the Sea-squirts or Ascidians, which are contained

in the original larger book. My hope is that this collection of

papers, "about a number of things," may meet with as kind a reception

from my readers as that which they have accorded to its predecessors.

E. RAY LANKESTER

_July 1, 1920_

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. A DAY IN THE OBERLAND 1

Fertilization of Sage--The Edelweiss--The Jungfrau's

Breast--Contortions of Rock-strata--The Jungfrau

Railway--Mountain Sickness.

II. SWITZERLAND IN EARLY SUMMER 13

Alpine Flowers--Flowers of the Meadows and Woods--The

Herb Paris.

III. GLETSCH 19

From Baveno to the Rhone Glacier--A Glacier by the

Roadside--Changes in the Glacier.

IV. THE PROBLEM OF THE GALLOPING HORSE 25

The Cinematograph--Ancient Representations of Gallop--The

Dog in Mycenaean Art--What ought an Artist

to do?--Attention as a Condition of Seeing--Judgment

and Prejudice--Natural and Artificial Paces--Photographs

by Electric Spark--Use of Instantaneous

Photographs--Errors as to the Size of the Moon--The

Painter and the Moon--The Moon on the Stage.

V. THE JEWEL IN THE TOAD'S HEAD 55

The Decay of Credulity--A Sceptical Physician--How

to Test a Toadstone--Other Magical Stones--Medicinal

and Magical Stones.

VI. ELEPHANTS 65

The Indian and the African Elephant--Size of Modern

Elephants--Ears and Teeth of Elephants--Earliest

Elephants brought to Europe--The Elephant's Legs--Tusks

used in Digging--Elephants used in War--Geological

Strata since the Chalk--Ancestral Mammals--The

Typical or Ancestral Set of Teeth--The

Peculiarities of the Teeth of Elephants--Extinct

Relatives of Elephants--Ancestors of Elephants--Origin

of the Elephant's Trunk.

VII. A STRANGE EXTINCT BEAST 92

Fossil Skeletons and Jaw-bones--The Skull and Teeth

of Goats--The Teeth of Rats--The Rat-toothed

Goat--Origin of the Rat-toothed Goat.

VIII. VEGETARIANS AND THEIR TEETH 102

Teeth of Carnivors--Mixed Diets--Disease-germs in

Food.

IX. FOOD AND COOKERY 113

Special Diet of Various Races--Food and Habit--Nervous

Control of Digestion--Wholesale Food and

Mechanical Cookery--The Burnt Offering of the

Jews--Women Neglect Cookery--A Great German's

Appreciation.

X. SMELLS AND PERFUMES 126

Smells and Memory--Accidental Qualities--Bacteria and

Smells--Some Remarkable Smells.

XI. KISSES 134

Kissing and Smelling--Variations in the Sense of

Smell--Radiation and Odours--Attraction by Smell--Unconscious

Guidance by Smell.

XII. LAUGHTER 144

Why do we Laugh?--Varieties of Laughter--The

Laugh of Escape from Death--The Laugh of

Derision.

XIII. FATHERLESS FROGS 152

Fertilization of the Egg-cell--Egg-cells Developing

Unfertilized--M. Bataillon's Discovery.

XIV. PRIMITIVE BELIEFS ABOUT FATHERLESS PROGENY 159

Harvey and Milton--Reproduction by Budding--Stories

of Virgin Births--Spiritual Theory of Conception.

XV. THE PYGMY RACES OF MEN 167

Characteristics of Pygmies--Colour of the Skin--Egyptian

Stories of Pygmies--Congo and New

Guinea Pygmies--The Causes of Small Size--Smallness

a Correlation.

XVI. PREHISTORIC PETTICOATS 180

Early Carvings and Pictures--Paintings in Caverns--Painting

of Human Figures--Artistic Sympathy--Aurignacians

and Bushmen Allied.

XVII. NEW YEAR'S DAY AND THE CALENDAR 191

Make-believe and New Year--Divisions of Time--The

Difficulties of the Calendar--Pope Gregory's Ten

Days--The Astronomer Royal and the Shah.

XVIII. EASTERTIDE, SHAMROCKS AND SPERMACETI 201

The Real Shamrock--Sham Shamrock--Leonardo or

Lucas?--Various Fats.

XIX. MUSEUMS 209

The Muses--The Museum of Alexandria--Picture Galleries

and Museums--The Purposes of Museums--The

First Business of Museums--National Value of

Museums--University Museums--Not for Children but

for Adults--Screens and Electric Lifts--Frames and

Setting of Pictures.

XX. THE SECRET OF A TERRIBLE DISEASE 227

The Angel of Death--The Tyranny of Parasites--Typhus

and Monkeys--Typhus Fever in Russia.

XXI. CARRIERS OF DISEASE 235

The Entrance of Parasites--Man as a Carrier of

Disease--House Flies and Disease.

XXII. IMMUNITY AND CURATIVE INOCULATIONS 241

Inoculation of Smallpox--Antitoxins--The Wonderful

Properties of Blood--Germ-killing Poisons in the

Blood--Opsonins or Sauce for Germs.

XXIII. THE STRANGE STORY OF ANIMAL LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND 251

Strange Birds--Destroyed by Europeans--Introduced

Animals.

XXIV. THE EFFACEMENT OF NATURE BY MAN 259

Disappearance of Great Animals--Man's Reckless

Greed--Hope in Irrigation.

XXV. THE EXTINCTION OF THE BISON AND OF WHALES 266

Drowning in a Dead Whale's Heart--The Value of

Whalebone--No more Turtle Soup.

XXVI. MORE ABOUT WHALES 273

The Shape of Whales--Enormous Pressure of Gas in

the Blood--The Killer and the Narwhal--Fossil

Whales.

XXVII. MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT SCIENCE 281

What Science does not explain--Darwin's Theory is

adequate--The Aquosity of Water--Need for Interpreters

of Science--The Exploded Ghost called

"Caloric"--Nightmares Destroyed by Science--When

did the Soul arrive?--The Great Silence.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIGURES

FIG. PAGE

1. Flower of the Yellow Sage 4

2. The Edelweiss 5

3. "Folding" of Rock Strata 8

4. A Man Extracting the Jewel from a Toad's Head 58

5. The Palate of the Fossil Fish Lepidotus 60

6. The Indian Elephant 66

7. The African Elephant 67

8. The Crowns of Three "Grinders" or Molars of

Elephants Compared 71

9. Skeleton of the Indian Elephant 81

10. The Teeth in the Upper and Lower Jaw-bone of the

Common Pig 84

11. A Reconstruction of the Extinct American Mastodon 86

12. Skull and Restored Outline of the Head of the Long-jawed

Extinct Elephant called Tetrabelodon 87

13. Head of the Ancestral Elephant--Palaeomastodon 89

14. Restored Model of the Skull and Lower Jaw of the

Ancestral Elephant--Palaeomastodon 90

15. Head of the Early Ancestor of Elephants--Meritherium--as

it appeared in life 91

16. Skull and Lower Jaw of a Goat 94

17. Teeth in the Lower and Upper Jaw of the Goat 95

18. Skull of a Typical "Rodent" Mammal, the Coypu Rat 96

19. Teeth of the Coypu Rat 97

20. Skull of the Rat-toothed Goat, Myotragus 99

21. Skull of a Clouded Tiger 103

22. Teeth of the Lower and Upper Jaw of the same

Clouded Tiger's Skull 104

23. Figure from a Group Drawn on a Greek Vase 171

24. Group of Women Clothed in Jacket and Skirt

with "Wasp-like" Waists 185

25. Further Portion of same Group as Fig. 24 186

PLATES

I. Consecutive Poses of the Galloping Horse 27

II. Various Representations of the Gallop 29

III. Representations of the Gallop 31

IV. The Track of the Rising Moon 49

V. Three Figures--Lord Lansdowne, Mr. Lloyd George,

and Mr. Asquith 52

VI. Teeth of the Upper and Lower Jaw of Man 108

VII. Teeth of the Upper and Lower Jaw of the Gibbon 110

VIII. Votary or Priestess of the Goddess to whom Snakes

were Sacred 188

IX. Fresco Drawing of Two Female Acrobats 190

MORE SCIENCE FROM AN EASY CHAIR

CHAPTER I

A DAY IN THE OBERLAND

I am writing in early September from Interlaken, one of the loveliest

spots in Europe when blessed with a full blaze of sunlight and only a

few high-floating clouds, but absolutely detestable in dull, rainy

weather, losing its beauty as the fairy scenes of a theatre do when

viewed by dreary daylight. It is the case of the little girl of whom

it is recorded that "When she was good she was very good, and when she

was not she was horrid." This morning, after four days' misconduct,

Interlaken was very good. The tremendous sun-blaze seemed to fill the

valleys with a pale blue luminous vapour, cut sharply by the shadows

of steep hill-sides. Here and there the smoke of some burning weeds

showed up as brightest blue. Far away through the gap formed in the

long range of nearer mountains, where the Luetschine Valley opens into

the vale of Interlaken, the Jungfrau appeared in full majesty,

absolutely brilliant and unearthly. So I walked towards her up the

valley. Zweiluetschinen is the name given to the spot where the valley

divides into two, that to the left leading up to Grindelwald, under

the shadow of the Moench and the Wetterhorn, that to the right bringing

one to Lauterbruennen and the Staubbach waterfall, with the snow-fields

of the Tchingel finally closing the way--over which I climbed years

ago to Ried in the Loetschen Thal.

The autumn crocus was already up in many of the closely trimmed little

meadows, whilst the sweet scent of the late hay-crop spread from the

newly cut herbage of others.

At Zweiluetschinen, where the white glacier-torrent unites with the

black, and the milky stream is nearly as cold as ice, and is boiling

along over huge rocks, its banks bordered with pine forest, I came

upon a native fishing for trout. He was using a short rod and a

weighted line with a small "grub" as bait. He dropped his line into

the water close to the steep bank, where some projecting rock or

half-sunk boulder staved off the violence of the stream. He had

already caught half-a-dozen beautiful, red-spotted fish, which he

carried in a wooden tank full of water, with a close-fitting lid to

prevent their jumping out. I saw him take a seventh. The largest must

have weighed nearly two pounds. It seems almost incredible that fish

should inhabit water so cold, so opaque, and so torrential, and should

find there any kind of nourishment. They make their way up by keeping

close to the bank, and are able, even in that milky current, to

perceive and snatch the unfortunate worm or grub which has been washed

into the flood and is being hurried along at headlong speed. Only the

trout has the courage, strength, and love of nearly freezing water

necessary for such a life--no other fish ventures into such

conditions. Trout are actually caught in some mountain pools at a

height of 8,000 ft., edged by perpetual snow.

You are rarely given trout to eat here in the hotels. A lake fish,

called "ferras," a large species of the salmonid genus _Coregonus_, to

which the skelly, powan, and vendayce of British lakes belong, is the

commonest fish of the _table d'hote_, and not very good. A better one

is the perch-pike or zander. It is common in all the larger shallow

lakes of Central Europe, and abounds in the "broads" which extend from

Potsdam to Hamburg, though it is unknown in the British Isles. It is

quite the best of the European fresh-water fish for the table, and

there should be no difficulty about introducing it into the Norfolk

Broads. It would be worth an effort on the part of the Board of

Agriculture and Fisheries to do so, as the perch-pike, unlike other

fresh-water fishes, would hold its own on the market against haddock,

brill, and plaice. Another interesting fresh-water fish which grows to

a large size in the Lake of Geneva (where I have seen it netted) is

the burbot--called "lote" in French--a true cod of fresh-water habit

which, though common throughout Europe and Northern Asia, is, in our

country, only taken in a few rivers opening on the east coast. It is a

brilliantly coloured fish, orange-brown, mottled with black, and is

very good eating.

Passing up the Lauterbruennen valley, I came upon some wild raspberries

and quantities of the fine, large-flowered sage, _Salvia glutinosa_,

with its yellow flowers, in shape like those of the dead-nettle, but

much bigger. They were being visited by humble-bees, and I was able to

see the effective mechanism at work by which the bee's body is dusted

with the pollen of the flower. I have illustrated this in some

drawings (Fig. 1) which are accompanied by a detailed explanation. Two

long stamens, _a1_, arch high up over the lip of the flower, _li_, on

which the bee alights, and are protected by a keel or hood of the

corolla. Each stamen is provided with a broad process, _a2_, standing

out low down on its arched stalk, and blocking the way to the nectar

in the cup of the flower. When the bee pushes his head against these

obstacles and forces them backwards, the result is to swing the long

arched stalk, with its pollen sacks, in the opposite direction,

namely, forwards and downwards on to the bee's back. It was easy to

see this movement going on, and the consequent dusting of the bee's

back with pollen. In somewhat older flowers, which have been relieved

of their pollen, the style, _st._, or free stalk-like extremity of the

egg-holding capsule, already as long as the stamens, grows longer and

bends down towards the lip or landing-place of the yellow flower. When

a pollen-dusted bee alights on one of these maturer flowers the sticky

end of the now depending style is gently rubbed by the bee's back and

smeared with a few pollen-grains brought by the bee from a distant

flower. These rapidly expand into "pollen tubes," or filaments, and,

penetrating the long style, reach the egg-germs below. Thus

cross-fertilization is brought about by the bees which come for the

nectar of _Salvia_. The stalks and outer parts of the flower of this

plant produce a very sticky secretion which effectually prevents any

small insects from crawling up and helping themselves to the nectar

exclusively provided for the attraction of the humble-bee, whose

services are indispensable.

[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Diagrams of the flower of the yellow sage

(_Salvia glutinosa_) a little larger than life. 1. An entire flower

seen from the side. _st._ The stigma, _a2_. The pair of modified

half-anthers which are pushed back by the bee when inserting its head

into the narrow part of the flower. 2. A similar flower at a later

stage when the stigma, _st._, has grown downwards so as to touch the

back of a bee alighting on the lip of the flower, and gather pollen

from it. 3. Diagram of one of the two stamens. _f._ The stalk or

filament of the stamen. _a1_. The pollen-producing half-anther, _eo._

The elongated connective joining it to the sterile half-anther. 4.

Section through a flower showing _ov._ the ovary; _nec._ the nectary

or honey-glands; _st._ the style; _li._ the lip of the flower on which

the bee alights. 5. Similar section showing the effect of the pushing

back of _a2_ by the bee, and the downward swinging of the

polliniferous half-anther so as to dust the bee's back with pollen.

The dotted arrow shows the direction of the push given by the bee.]

[Illustration: Fig. 2.--The Edelweiss, _Gnaphalium leontopodium_.]

As I walked on, a belated Apollo butterfly, with its two red spots,

and a pale Swallow-tail fluttered by me. Then some children emerged

from unsuspected lurking-places in the wood and offered bunches of

edelweiss (Fig. 2). This curious-looking little plant does not grow

(as pretended by reporters of mountaineering disasters) exclusively in

places only to be reached by a dangerous climb. I have gathered it in

meadows on the hillside above Zermatt, and it is common enough in

accessible spots. The flowers are like those of our English groundsel

and yellow in colour--little "composite" knobs, each built up of many

tubular "florets" packed side by side. Six or seven of these little

short-stalked knobs of florets are arranged in a circlet around a

somewhat larger knob, and each of them gives off from its stalk one

long and two shorter white, hairy, leaf-like growths, flat and

blade-like in shape and spreading outwards from the circle, so that

the whole series resemble the rays of a star (or more truly of a

star-fish!). They look strangely artificial, as though cut out of new

white flannel (with a greenish tint), and have been dignified

by the comparison of the shape of the white-flannel rays with that

of the foot of the lion and the claws of the eagle. They are

extraordinary-looking little plants, and are similar in their

hairiness and pale tint to some of the seaside plants on our own

coast, which, in fact, include species closely allied to them

("cud-weeds" of the genus _Gnaphalium_).

The huge cliffs of rocks on either side (in some parts over a thousand

feet in sheer height from the torrent) come closer to one another in

the part where we now are than in most Alpine valleys, so as almost to

give it the character of a "gorge." At some points the highest part of

the precipice actually overhangs the perpendicular face by many feet.

A refreshing cold air comes up from the icy torrent, whilst the heat

of the sun diffuses the delicious resinous scent of the pine trees.

Above the naked rock we see steep hill-sides covered with forest, and

away above these again bare grass-slopes topped by cloud. But as the

clouds slowly lift and break we become suddenly aware of something

impending far above and beyond all this, something more dazzling in

its white brightness than the sun-lit clouds, a form sharply cut in

outline and firm, yet rounded by a shadow of an exquisite purple tint

which no cloud can assume. The steely blue Alpine sky fits around this

marvel of pure whiteness as it towers through the opening cloud, and

soars out of earth's range. What is this glory so remote yet impending

over us? It is the Jungfrau, the incomparable virgin of the ice-world,

who bares her snowy breast. She slowly parts her filmy veil, and, as

we gaze, uncovers all her loveliness.

The rock walls of the Lauterbruennen valley show at one place a

thickness of many hundred feet of strongly marked, perfectly

horizontal "strata"--the layers deposited immense ages ago at the

bottom of a deep sea. Not only have they been raised to this position,

and then cut into, so as to make the profound furrow or valley in the

sides of which we see them, but they have been bent and contorted in

places to an extent which is, at first sight, incredible. Close to one

great precipice of orderly horizontal layers you see the whole series

suddenly turned up at right angles, and the same strata which were

horizontal have become perpendicular. But that is not the limit, for

the upturned strata are seen actually to turn right over, and again

become horizontal in a reversed order, the strata which were the

lowest becoming highest, and the highest lowest. The rock is rolled up

just as a flat disc of Genoese pastry--consisting of alternate layers

of jam and sponge-cake--is folded on itself to form a double

thickness. The forces at work capable of treating the solid rocks, the

foundations of the great mountains, in this way are gigantic beyond

measurement. This folding of the earth's crust is caused by the fact

that the "crust," or skin of the earth, has ceased to cool, being

warmed by the sun, and therefore does not shrink, whilst the great

white-hot mass within (in comparison with which the twenty-mile-thick

crust is a mere film) continually loses heat, and shrinks definitely

in volume as its temperature sinks. The crust or jacket of stratified

rock deposited by the action of the waters on the surface of the globe

has been compelled--at whatever cost, so to speak--to fit itself to

the diminishing "core" on which it lies. Slowly, but steadily, this

"settlement" has gone on, and is going on. The horizontal rock layers,

being now too great in length and breadth, adjust themselves by

"buckling"--just as a too large, ill-fitting dress does--and the Alps,

the Himalayas, and other great mountain ranges, are regions where this

"buckling" process has for countless ages proceeded, slowly but

surely. Probably the "buckling" has proceeded to a large extent

without sudden movement, but with a lateral pressure of such power as

ultimately to throw a crust of thousands of feet thickness into deep

folds a mile or so in vertical measurement from crest to hollow,

protruding from the general level both upwards and downwards, whilst

often the folds are rolled over on to each other.

[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Diagrams to show the "folding" of rock strata.

A. Normal horizontal position of the strata, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_; _xy_,

horizontal line. B. Folding due to a shortening of the horizontal _xy_

by lateral pressure, acting in the direction of the arrow and due to

shrinkage. C. More extreme case of folding, in which a raised ridge is

made to fall over so as to bring the lowest layer _d_ above _a_, _b_

and _c_.]

This crumbling and folding has gone on at great depths--that is to

say, some miles below the surface (a mere nothing compared with the

8,000 miles diameter of the globe itself), though we now see the

results exposed, like the pastry folded by a cook. Immense time has

been taken in the process. A folding movement involving a vertical

rise of an inch in ten years would not be noticed by human onlookers,

but in 600,000 years this would give you a vertical displacement of

more than 5,000 ft. (nearly a mile!). It has been shown that in

Switzerland, along a line of country extending from Basle to Milan,

strata of 10,000 ft. to 20,000 ft. in thickness, which, if

straightened out, would give a flat area of that thickness, and of 200

miles in length, have been buckled and folded so as to occupy only a

length of 130 miles! The former tight-fitting skin of horizontal rock

layers has "had to" buckle to that extent here (and in the same way in

other mountain ranges in other parts of the world), because the whole

terrestrial sphere has shrunk, owing to the gradual cooling of the

mass, whilst the crust has not shrunk, not having lost heat.

Filled with interest and delight in these things, I reached the

railway station at Lauterbruennen, from whence the little train is

driven far up the mountain, even into the very heart of the Jungfrau,

by an electric current generated by a turbine, itself driven by the

torrent at our feet, the waters of which have descended from the

glaciers far above, to which it will carry us. In a few minutes I was

gently gliding in the train up the to the "Wengern Alp" and the

"Little Scheidegg"--a slope up which I have so often in former years

painfully struggled on foot for four hours or more. One could to-day

watch the whole scene, in ease and comfort, during the two hours'

ascent of the train. And a marvellous scene it is as one rises to the

height of 8,000 ft., skirting the glaciers which ooze down the rocky

sides of the Jungfrau, and mounting far above some of them. At the

Scheidegg I changed into a smaller train, and with some thirty

fellow-passengers was carried higher and higher by the faithful,

untiring electric current. After a quarter of an hour's progress we

paused high above the "snout" of the great Eiger glacier, and

descended by a short path on to it, examined the ice, its crevasses

and layers, and its "glacier-grains," and watched and heard an

avalanche. The last time I was here it took a couple of hours to reach

this spot from the Scheidegg, and probably neither I nor any of my

fellow-passengers could to-day endure the necessary fatigue of

reaching this spot on foot. Then we remounted the train, and on we

went into the solid rock of the huge Eiger. The train stops in the

rock tunnel and we got out to look, through an opening cut in its

side, down the sheer wall of the mountain on to the grassy meadows

thousands of feet below.

Then we start again, and on we are driven by the current generated

away down there in Lauterbruennen, through the spiral tunnel, mounting

a thousand feet more till we are landed at an opening cut on the

further side of the rocky Eiger, which admits us to an actual footing

on the great glacier called the Eismeer, or Icelake. We lunch at a

restaurant cut out as a cavern in the solid rock, and survey the

wondrous scene. We are now at a height of 10,000 feet, and in the real

frozen ice-world, hitherto accessible only to the young and vigorous.

I have been there in my day with pain, danger, and labour, accompanied

by guides and held up by ropes, but never till now with perfect ease

and tranquillity and without "turning a hair," or causing either man

or beast to labour painfully on my behalf. We had taken two hours only

from Lauterbruennen; in former days we should have started in the small

hours of the morning from the Scheidegg, and have climbed through many

dangers for some six or seven hours before reaching this spot.

I confess that I am not enchanted with all of the modern appliances

for saving time and labour--the telegraph, the telephone, the

automobile, and the aeroplane. But these mountain railways fill me

with satisfaction and gratitude. When the Jungfrau railway was first

projected, some athletic Englishmen with heavy boots and ice-axes,

protested against the "desecration" of regions till then accessible

only to them and to me, and others of our age and strength. They

declared that the scenery would be injured by the railway and its

troops of "tourists." As well might they protest against the

desecration caused by the crawling of fifty house-flies on the dome of

St. Paul's. These mountains and glaciers are so vast, and men with

their railroads so small, that the latter are negligible in the

presence of the former. No disfiguring effect whatever is produced by

these mountain railways; the trains have even ceased to emit smoke

since they were worked by electricity. I quite agree with those who

object to "funiculars." The carriages on these are hauled up long,

straight gashes in the mountain side, which have a hideous and

disfiguring appearance. But I look forward with pleasure to the

completion of the Jungfrau railway to the summit. I hope that the

Swiss engineers will carry it through the mountain, and down along the

side of the great Aletsch glacier to the Bel Alp and so to Brieg. That

would be a glorious route to the Simplon tunnel and Italy!

I took three hours in the unwearied train descending from the Eismeer

to Interlaken, and was back in my hotel in comfortable time for

dinner, "mightily content with the day's journey," as Mr. Pepys would

have said. I have always been sensitive to the action of diminished

pressure, which produces what is called "mountain sickness" in many

people. Many years ago I climbed by the glacier-pass known as the

Weissthor from Macugnaga to the Riffel Alp, with a stylographic pen in

my pocket. The reservoir of the pen contained a little air, which

expanded as the atmospheric pressure diminished, and at 10,000 feet I

found most of the ink emptied into my pocket. Probably one cause of

the discomfort called "mountain sickness" arises from a similar

expansion of gas contained in the digestive canal, and in the

cavities connected with the ear and nose. The more suddenly the change

of pressure is effected, the more noticeable is the discomfort. But I

was rather pleased than otherwise to note, as I sat in the comfortable

railway carriage, that when we passed 8,000 feet in elevation the old

familiar giddiness, and tendency to sigh and gasp, came upon me

as of yore, as I gathered was the experience of some of my

fellow-passengers: and when we were returning, and had descended

half-way to Lauterbruennen, I enjoyed the sense of restored ease in

breathing which I well remember when the whole experience was

complicated by the fatigue of a long climb. A white-haired American

lady was in the train with me ascending to the Eismeer. "I have longed

all my life," she said, "to see a glaysher--to touch it and walk on

it--and now I am going to do it at last. I and my daughter here have

come right away from America to go on these cars to the glaysher."

When we were descending, I asked the old lady if she had been pleased.

"I can hardly speak of it rightly," she said. "It seems to me as

though I have been standing up there on God's own throne." I do not

sympathise with the Alpine monopolist who would grudge that dear old

lady, and others like her, the little train and tramway by which alone

such people can penetrate to those soul-stirring scenes. They are at

least as sensitive to the beauty of the mountains as are the most

muscular, most long-winded, and most sun-blistered of our friends--the

acrobats of the rope and axe.

Interlaken

_September, 1909_

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