following are the principal:—_Her Majesty’s Theatre_, on the western side
of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian Opera Houses in
London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an older theatre, burnt down
in 1867, and re-built in 1869. It is occasionally unoccupied. The
freehold of some of the boxes has been sold for as much as £8,000 each.
The Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main
attractions and the largest audiences are from May to July. The _Royal
Italian Opera House_, occupying the site of the former Covent Garden
Theatre, was built in 1858, on the ruins of one destroyed by fire. The
building is very remarkable, both within and without. Under the
lesseeship of Mr. Gye, and the conductorship of Mr. (now Sir Michael)
Costa, operas have been produced here with a completeness scarcely
paralleled in Europe. When not required for _Italian Operas_, the
building is occupied usually by an _English Opera_ Company, or
occasionally for miscellaneous concerts. The _Floral Hall_, adjoining
this theatre, is occasionally engaged for concerts. _Drury Lane
Theatre_, the fourth on the same site, was built in 1812; its glories
live in the past, for the legitimate drama now alternates there with
entertainments of a more spectacular and melodramatic character. The
_Haymarket Theatre_, exactly opposite Her Majesty’s, was built in 1821;
under Mr. Buckstone’s management, comedy and farce are chiefly performed.
The _Adelphi Theatre_, in the Strand, near Southampton Street, was
rebuilt in 1858; it has for forty years been celebrated for melodramas,
and for the attractiveness of its comic actors. The present lessee, Mr.
Webster, has the merit of having introduced many improvements for the
comfort of the audience. The _Lyceum Theatre_, or _English Opera House_,
at the corner of Wellington Street, Strand, was built in 1834; it was
intended as an English Opera House, but its fortunes have been
fluctuating, and the performances are not of a definite kind. The
_Princess’s Theatre_, on the north side of Oxford Street, was built in
1830; after a few years of opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the
scene of Mr. Charles Kean’s Shakspearian revivals, and now resembles most
of the other theatres. _St. James’s Theatre_, in King Street, St.
James’s, was built for Braham, the celebrated singer; it was a losing
speculation to him; and although a really beautiful theatre inside, its
managerial arrangements have been very changeable of late years. The
_Olympic Theatre_, in Wych Street, Drury Lane, is small, but well
conducted and successful. The _Strand Theatre_, near the Olympic, has
been remarkable for its burlesque extravaganzes. The _New Globe
Theatre_, Newcastle Street, Strand, and the _Gaiety_, 345 Strand, and
lastly the _Vaudeville_, (for comedy, farce, and burlesque,) near the
_Adelphi_, are all of comparatively recent erection; so are the _Court
Theatre_, near Sloane Square; the _Charing Cross Theatre_, King William
Street; the _Queen’s Theatre_, Long Acre, late _St. Martin’s Hall_; and
the _Holborn Theatre_. The _New Royalty_, or _Soho Theatre_, in Dean
Street, Soho, was once a private theatre, belonging to Miss Kelly, the
celebrated actress. The _Prince of Wales’s Theatre_, in Tottenham
Street, is the old Tottenham Theatre in a renovated and greatly improved
condition. Some of Mr. T. W. Robertson’s best comedies have been
produced here within the last few years. _Sadler’s Wells_, near the New
River Head, was at one time remarkable for the ‘real water’ displayed in
melodramas. The _Marylebone Theatre_, between Regent’s Park and the
Edgeware Road; the _Grecian_, in the City Road; the _Britannia_, at
Hoxton; the _City of London_, in Norton Folgate; the _Standard_, in
Shoreditch; and the _Pavilion_, in Whitechapel, are Theatres noticeable
for the large numbers of persons accommodated, and the lowness of the
prices of admission. On the Surrey side of the Thames are _Astley’s
Amphitheatre_, in the Westminster Road, (the Circus is now removed;) the
_Victoria Theatre_, in the Waterloo Road; and the _Surrey Theatre_, in
Blackfriars Road. The performances at these several theatres commence at
an hour varying from half-past six (some of the minors) to half-past
eight (two Opera houses) in the evening, but the most usual hour is
seven; and, as a general rule, there is half-price at a later hour in the
evening. During the run of the Christmas pantomimes there are a few
additional performances at two in the afternoon. It has recently been
estimated that 4,000 persons are employed at the London theatres, earning
daily food for probably 12,000; and that the public spend about £350,000
at those places annually.
Concerts.—The principal Concert Rooms in London are, _Exeter Hall_, _St.
James’s Hall_, _Hanover Square Rooms_, the _Music Hall_, in Store Street,
the _Floral Hall_, _Willis’ Rooms_, and the _Queen’s Concert Room_,
attached to Her Majesty’s Theatre. All these places are engaged for
single concerts; but there are also musical societies and choral bodies
which give series of concerts every year. Among these are the _Sacred
Harmonic Society_, (Exeter Hall,) the _National Choral Society_, (same
place,) the _Philharmonic Society_, (Hanover Square Rooms,) _Mr. Henry
Leslie’s Choir_, the _New Philharmonic_, (St. James’s Hall,) the _Musical
Society_, the _Musical Union_, the _Glee and Madrigal Society_, the
_Beethoven Society_, the _Monday Popular Concerts_, &c. The _Oratorio_
performances at Exeter Hall, by the Sacred Harmonic and National Choral
Societies, are considered to be the finest of the kind in Europe. There
are occasional _Handel Choral Meetings_ at the same place, under Sir
Michael Costa, supported by 1,600 singers.
Tavern Music Halls.—Numerous Rooms connected with taverns have been
opened in London, within the last few years, for musical performances.
The music is a singular compound of Italian, English, and German operatic
compositions, fairly executed, with comic songs of the most extravagant
kind; to these are added what the performers please to term ‘nigger’
dances, and athletic and rope-dancing feats—the whole accompanied by
drinking and smoking on the part of the audience. The chief among these
places are, _Canterbury Hall_, near the Westminster Road; the _Oxford_,
in Oxford Street; the _Royal Music Hall_, late _Weston’s_, in Holborn;
the _Alhambra_, in Leicester Square; the _Philharmonic_, Islington, near
the _Angel_. _Evans’_, in Covent Garden, does not as a rule admit
females, though ladies, friends of the proprietor, &c., are occasionally
allowed to look down on the proceedings from wired-in private boxes above
the line of the stage. _Evans’_ has long been honourably known for its
old English glees, catches, madrigals, &c., good supper, and gentlemanly
arrangements and audiences. The _Raglan_, the _Winchester_, the _South
London_, and others, are of plainer character. Charge, usually 6d. to
1s. Mr. Morton, the former proprietor of _Canterbury Hall_, provided a
capital gallery of pictures, (_Punch’s_ ‘Royal Academy over the Water,’)
placed freely open to the visitors to the Music Hall.
Entertainments.—There is a class of London amusements, called
_Entertainments_, which has come much into fashion within a few years.
They generally last about two hours, from eight till ten in the evening.
The late Mr. Albert Smith was one of the first to commence these
entertainments, with his ‘_Overland Route_,’ ‘_Mont Blanc_,’ and
‘_China_;’ and the names of other well known entertainers are, Mr.
Woodin, Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, Mr. John Parry, Mr. A. Sketchley, Mr.
and Mrs. Howard Paul, &c. Delineation of character, painted scenery,
descriptive sketches, singing, music, ventriloquism—some or all of these
supply the materials from which these entertainments are got up.
Sometimes the _programme_ of performances is of a less rational
character, depending on the incongruities of so-called negro melodists;
while occasionally a higher tone is adopted, as in ‘_Readings_,’ by
various persons. The principal halls or rooms in which these
entertainments are held are the _Egyptian Hall_, Piccadilly; the _Gallery
of Illustration_, Regent Street; the minor rooms at _St. James’s Hall_;
and the _Music Hall_, in Store Street. The prices of admission generally
vary from 1s. to 3s. The leading pages of the daily newspapers, and more
especially of the _Times_, will always shew which of these entertainments
are open at any particular time.
Miscellaneous Amusements.—The sources of information just mentioned will
also notify particulars of numerous other places of amusement, which need
not be separately classified. Among these are the _Polytechnic
Institution_, Regent Street, (famous for Mr. Pepper’s ‘Ghosts;’) and
_Madame Tussaud’s Waxwork_, Baker Street, Portman Square, (a favourite
exhibition with country visitors.) To all such places the charge of
admission is 1s. Among _Pleasure Gardens_, for music, dancing, tight and
slack rope performances, &c., _Cremorne Gardens_, at Chelsea, _St. Helena
Gardens_, at Rotherhithe, the _Riverside Gardens_, at North Woolwich, and
the _Surrey Gardens_, near Walworth, are the principal; _Vauxhall
Gardens_ have disappeared as places of amusement, and have been
supplanted by bricks and mortar. The so-called _Tea Gardens_ are much
more numerous, and are supported rather by the profit on the beverages
sold, than by the fee charged for admission.
A few additional particulars concerning _Free Exhibitions_, _Shilling
Exhibitions_, and Exhibitions available only by Introduction, are given
in the _Appendix_.
PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND HORTICULTURAL
GARDENS.
Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning the
metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open to the
public. The gardens of three scientific societies, gradually brought
into a very attractive state, are also accessible, though not without
payment.
St. James’s Park.—This is so called from St. James’s Palace, which partly
bounds it on the north. Originally these grounds were a marshy waste,
which was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took
down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its site
the palace now called St. James’s. Charles II. improved the grounds by
planting the avenues of lime-trees on the north and south sides of the
park; and by forming the _Mall_, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled
space, half a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at
ball. The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; hence it derived
the appellation Birdcage Walk. The centre of the park was occupied by
canals and ponds for aquatic birds. William III. threw the park open to
the public for their recreation. Within the last thirty years the park
has been greatly improved. It is nearly a mile and a-half in
circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form delightful
shady promenades. In the centre is a fine piece of water, interspersed
with islands, and dotted with swans and water-fowl; a bridge was built
across this water in 1857. On each side are spacious lawns, enriched
with lofty trees and flowering shrubs. The lawns are separated from the
avenues by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers’ lodges.
There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the Queen’s Guard doing duty
at each, day and night. At the east side is a large gravelled space,
called the _Parade_, on which, about ten o’clock every morning, the
body-guards required for the day are mustered—and here the regimental
bands perform for a time in fine weather. Here also guns are fired on
state occasions. At the south side of the parade is placed a huge
mortar, brought from Spain, where it was used during the Peninsular war;
it can propel a bombshell nearly four miles. At the north end of the
parade is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from
Alexandria, in Egypt. A little farther north from the parade is a broad
flight of steps, giving entrance to the park from Waterloo Place,
constructed by order of William IV.; these steps are surmounted by a
lofty column, commemorative of the late Duke of York, which occupies the
spot where formerly stood Carlton House, the favourite residence of
George IV. while Prince Regent. (Near here the band of the
Commissionaires plays on summer evenings.) Farther along the Mall, or
avenue, is Marlborough House; next to which is St. James’s Palace,
separated by Stafford House from the Green Park. At the western end is
Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side, Birdcage Walk, and the
Wellington Barracks. This park, all things considered, is one of the
greatest ornaments to the metropolis. The lake or water is a famous
skating-place in winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly
uniform depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the
breakage of the ice.
The Green Park.—This park, less attractive than St. James’s, and
occupying about 60 acres, rises with a gentle slope to the north of
Buckingham Palace, and is bounded on its east side by many fine mansions
of the nobility—including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the Earls
Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough. In a north-westerly direction from
the palace is a broad road called Constitution Hill, connecting St.
James’s Park with Hyde Park Corner. On the north is the line of
terrace-like street forming the western portion of Piccadilly. The whole
of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is interesting from
its undulating grassy surface, which rises considerably on the north
side. From the highest ground there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham
Palace, and of St. James’s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues
of tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses of
Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of other
buildings. At the north-west angle of the park, where Constitution Hill
joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the reign of George IV.,
elaborately decorated, but possessing little general effect. The largest
equestrian statue in England, that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on
this arch; where it was placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of
taste, who protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement.
Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to Apsley
House, the great Duke’s residence; and here, in the after-part of the
day, in fine weather, may be seen an extraordinary concourse of
foot-passengers, vehicles, and equestrians, going to and returning from
Hyde Park; also the general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington,
Brompton, and other places in a westerly direction.
Hyde Park.—This fine open place is part of the ancient manor of Hida,
which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, at Westminster, till Henry
VIII. appropriated it differently. Its extent is about 390 acres, part
of which is considerably elevated. The whole is intersected with noble
roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in groups,
presenting very diversified prospects. Near the south-east corner, the
entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated pedestal, stands a colossal
bronze statue of Achilles, cast from the cannon taken at the battles of
Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing thirty tons, and (as the inscription
informs us) ‘erected to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms
by their countrywomen.’ [Picture: Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park,
&c. (Brompton and Kensington Roads in the distance.)] It cost £10,000,
and was the work of Sir R. Westmacott. The south-east entrance to the
park, near Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and
balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton. The north-east
entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises the _Marble Arch_,
removed from the front of Buckingham Palace. The other entrances, of
which there are several, are less ornate. The long sheet of water called
the _Serpentine_ enriches the scenery of Hyde Park. Near its western
extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two smaller arches,
erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of Kensington Palace; and
the portion of the Serpentine contained within the gardens has lately
been rendered very attractive, by the formation, at its head, of a small
Italian garden, with fountains, statuary, &c. The carriage-drive on the
northern bank of the Serpentine is called the _Ladies’ Mile_. On the
level space of Hyde Park troops of the line and volunteers are
occasionally reviewed. There is a well-stored magazine near the western
side. The broad road through the park to Kensington is denominated
Rotten Row, and is a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes,
but is not open to wheel-carriages. Other roads display countless
elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths, which are
railed off from the roads, are favourite places of resort for visitors,
who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the gaiety of the scene, more
particularly between five and seven on a summer afternoon. There are
several entrances open from early morning till ten at night. No stage or
hackney coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of
Hyde Park—with the exception of a road-way, made at the time of the
International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up, across the park,
near Kensington Gardens, for passenger-vehicles. The Serpentine is much
frequented for bathing and skating. It has been recently cleaned out,
and drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a receiving-house
near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be endangered. The morning
and evening hours for bathing are defined by regulations placarded in
various places. The Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was
held in a Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park. The
Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the park. The
_Albert Memorial_ is at the Kensington end of Hyde Park.
London International Exhibition.—Not far beyond Prince’s Gate, Hyde Park,
is the London International Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st
May, and will continue open till the 30th September of this year. The
ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save
unnecessary expenditure of our space, which is obviously limited.
[Picture: Ground Plan] Among the many objects of interest are shewn
selected specimens as follows:—Pictures, Oil and Water Colour; Sculpture;
Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics, &c.; Stained Glass;
Architecture and Models; Engravings; Lithography; Photography as a Fine
Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware;
Machinery used for Pottery of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets;
Worsted Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted
Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair and wool, and other
animals; Educational Works and Appliances; Scientific Inventions and
Discoveries; Horticulture. In the Royal Albert Hall musical art is
represented daily.
[Picture: London International Exhibition, 1873]
Kensington Gardens.—At the western extremity of Hyde Park lie Kensington
Gardens, a large piece of ground laid out in the ornamental park style,
interspersed with walks, and ornamented with rows and clumps of noble
trees. Besides entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the
Knightsbridge and Bayswater Roads. Near the west end of the grounds
stands Kensington Palace. The gardens have been more than once
considerably extended, so that they now measure about two and a-half
miles in circumference. There are some beautiful gates on the south
side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook Dale Company to the Great
Exhibition of 1851. These grounds form a most delightful public
promenade during fine weather; especially on summer evenings, when one of
the Guards’ bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.
Regent’s Park.—This beautiful park is situated considerably away from the
other parks, in a northerly direction from the Marylebone Road. It
consists of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on
the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is enriched
with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of flowers. Many of the
Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps exercise and drill in this park, in
all except the winter months. The park is surrounded by extensive ranges
of buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated with
sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of architecture:
producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in some instances, of
questionable taste. Three or four isolated mansions occupy sites within
the park. The outer drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a
perfect circle, with two outlets. At Mr. Bishop’s Observatory, near this
inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his important discoveries of
asteroids and comets. Near the south-eastern corner of the park the
_Colosseum_ stands conspicuous. It is now closed. The Zoological and
Botanical Gardens will be described presently. Some distance north of
the Colosseum are St. Katharine’s Hospital and Chapel—a very luxurious
provision for ‘six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.’ Near the
Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the _Diorama_, which
was some years ago converted into a Baptist chapel, at the cost of Sir
Morton Peto.
Primrose Hill.—This spot now deserves to be ranked among the public parks
of London. It is immediately north of the Regent’s Park. The Crown
owned part of it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College.
The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept in
excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity of viewing
the ‘world of London’ from this spot in early morning. By permission of
the authorities, a refreshment-room has been established for visitors;
and a ‘Shakspeare Oak’ planted, April 23, 1864, which, however, “came to
grief.”
Victoria Park.—This, the only park in the east or poorer division of
London, consists of about 270 acres. Having been formed only a few
years, the trees have not yet grown to a full size; but it is gradually
becoming a pleasant spot, with flower-beds, lakes, walks, and shady
avenues. This park is especially distinguished by possessing the most
magnificent _Public Fountain_ yet constructed in the metropolis; it was
provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of £5,000;
the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a Gothic structure, crowned
by a cupola 60 feet high. Being near the densely populated districts of
Bethnal Green and Mile End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants.
It lies between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be
obtained from two stations on the North London Railway—those of Hackney
and Hackney Wick, or Victoria Park. The fountain just mentioned is near
the Hackney entrance. Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel,
from Mile End, and from Bow.
Battersea Park.—This park, of about 180 acres, on which £300,000 has been
spent, lies between Vauxhall and Battersea, and is the only public park
which comes down to the Thames. Nothing can exceed the change exhibited
on this spot. Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called Battersea
Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at, and healthful to
walk in. A beautiful suspension bridge, from the designs of Mr. Page,
connects this park with Chelsea, on the other side of the river; and near
it is another bridge for railway traffic.
Kennington Park.—A few years ago there was an open common at Kennington,
dirty and neglected, and mostly held in favour by such classes as those
which held the Chartist meeting in 1848. It is now a prettily laid-out
public park—small, but well kept.
Finsbury Park, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park, was opened in
August, 1869.
Southwark Park was opened about the same time. Though small, they are
great boons to the working classes.