CHAPTER XV.

Masonic Entertainment: Journey to Petersburg: Visit to Mr. Jefferson:

his mansion: plantation: slaves: Montpelier: Mr. Madison: Religious

Liberty: Return to Washington by Orange Court House and

Fredericksburg.

Among the splendid festivities prepared by the citizens of Richmond for

the National Guest, the particular description of which I am obliged to

forego, there was one I must speak of, as affording an idea of

free-masonry in the United States; an institution, for whose persecution

the Inquisition has so often lighted its faggots in Spain and Italy, and

which some European governments do not tolerate at the present day,

without repugnance.

On Saturday, the 30th October, after having been introduced with the

accustomed ceremonies into the Masonic Temple, where the members of the

various lodges of Richmond were collected, we marched forth in grand

procession, to go to a fraternal banquet prepared at a hotel in the

other end of the city. The procession, consisting of more than three

hundred persons, moved in the following order:—

A detachment of brethren with drawn swords, preceded the march. After

this detachment came a band of musicians, playing American and French

national airs, among which the Marseilles hymn was not forgotten. Behind

the music marched two long files of brethren of the lower degrees, and

between these two files, all the grand dignitaries of the society,

carrying in the centre a bible, placed on a rich velvet cushion

embroidered with gold, and surrounded by masonic symbols. Among the

grand dignitaries, the governor of Virginia, chief justice Marshall, and

many other officers of state, were conspicuous. All the brethren wore

the badges of their degrees, and their variety presented a truly

original picture. All the streets we passed through were crowded with

spectators, who by their attitude and silence, expressed the respect

inspired by this ceremony. Before taking our places at table, a

protestant clergyman belonging to the masonic order, pronounced a

discourse, in which he reminded us that true masonry reposed on _truth_,

_equality_, and _charity_, and that to fulfil our duties as masons, was,

in other words, to discharge our duties towards God and man. He

concluded his discourse by blessing our repast, which was commenced with

much gravity, but concluded amidst those bursts of frank and hearty

merriment so distinctive of the inhabitants of Virginia. A great number

of patriotic toasts were drank by the guests; that of general Lafayette

was enthusiastically received. It was as follows—“Liberty, Equality,

Philanthropy, the true masonic symbol. May the practice of these

principles always secure us the esteem of our friends, and the dislike

of the enemies of the human race.”

After the entertainment we resumed our rout to the temple with the same

ceremonies, and in the same order observed in coming to the hotel; we

returned to spend the evening gaily in the company of a numerous society

collected at our dwelling.

On leaving Richmond general Lafayette expected to pay a visit to his old

and good friend, the ex-president, Jefferson, but a pressing invitation

from the citizens of Petersburg, caused a slight change in his plan. He

resolved first to attend to this invitation, and then to return to

Richmond, and set out thence for Monticello. Nearly six hours were

occupied in traversing the woody and sandy road from Richmond to

Petersburg, which is not more than twenty-five miles. While on the way,

some of our escort pointed out an old frame church, which had been

occupied by Lafayette, as his head quarters during the campaign of

Virginia, when he manœuvred on this ground to prevent the junction of

Cornwallis with general Phillips. In approaching the town general

Lafayette recognised the position whence he cannonaded and burnt

Petersburg, in order to dislodge the British, who had entered by so

rapid a march that he could not prevent it. The details of this part of

the campaign of Virginia are briefly and clearly related in Marshall’s

excellent Life of Washington.

The twenty-four hours passed by general Lafayette among the citizens of

Petersburg, were signalized by great variety of pleasures; in passing

through the streets the inhabitants with much glee made him remark how

much the town had gained by being burnt by him in 1781. “At that time,”

said they, “we had none but miserable wooden houses to receive you in,

and now there are large well built brick dwellings, in which we can

offer you all the comforts of life.”

Petersburg has in fact an agreeable aspect, which declares the

prosperity of its inhabitants. It is a pretty small town, containing

about 7000 inhabitants, built on the southeast bank of the Appomatox

river, which is navigable from this place to its confluence with James

river, for vessels of sixty tons. All the products of the south of

Virginia, and most of those of North Carolina, have no other outlet but

Petersburg. The commerce of this place is, consequently, considerable in

tobacco and flour, which is in great part, manufactured at the numerous

mills situated near the town, below the falls of Appomatox.

After returning to Richmond, we rested for forty-eight hours, and then

set out for Monticello, distant eighty miles, accompanied by the

volunteer cavalry of Richmond, and a deputation of the committee of

arrangement. The first night we slept at Milton, a small town, half way

to our place of destination; there a great many planters of the vicinity

had assembled to offer a patriotic entertainment to Lafayette. The next

morning at the time of starting, I was so severely indisposed, that I

could not leave my room; it was thought I was threatened with a bilious

fever, a disease very common in Virginia at this time of the year, and

frequently fatal.—However, a cup of tea and two hour’s sleep restored me

so far, that I was able to continue my journey in the carriage.

Notwithstanding all my entreaties, Mr. George Lafayette had left the

company, and remained with me; an evidence of his kindness, I shall

never forget. We arrived at Monticello, a short time after general

Lafayette. We found Mr. Jefferson still deeply affected by the pleasure

of having embraced his ancient friend. He received us amidst his

numerous family, with an amenity which instantly dissipated the

timidity, which I could not help feeling on my first approach to a man

who had performed so much for the human race.

When one recollects how much the life of Jefferson was occupied, and

useful to his fellow creatures, one feels penetrated with a deep

veneration for him, but to this sentiment is soon added that of

confidence and friendship, when we have lived a few days near him. It is

difficult to find a man of more agreeable and instructive conversation:

endowed with a memory which readily reconveyed him amidst all the events

of his life; familiar with most of the arts and sciences, his

conversation could easily satisfy all the demands of a mind desirous of

instruction.

Thomas Jefferson was born at Chadwell, in Albemarle county, Virginia, on

the 2d of April, 1743; he was educated at Williamsburg college, and

devoted his early years to the study of the law. The advantageous

situation in which he was placed by the considerable fortune left him by

his father, Peter Jefferson, one of the oldest settlers, and still more

the elevation of his mind and character, soon caused him to be sent to

the legislature of Virginia, by which he was sent in 1775, as its

representative to the continental congress. He was not long in obtaining

a great reputation amidst that august assembly, which in 1776, adopted

his draft of the _Declaration of Independence_, a composition not less

remarkable for the depth of its thought, than for the clearness,

dignity, and energy of its style, of itself sufficient to immortalize

the author. But Jefferson could not stop at so glorious an opening of

his political career; he must traverse the whole course with the same

step, and on his way, still find means of paying tribute to the sciences

and arts, which he never neglected. Successively legislator, governor of

Virginia, representative, minister plenipotentiary, secretary of state,

vice president of the United States, he passed during twenty-five years

through all the high public offices, to arrive at the first magistracy

of the republic. His election, which occurred in 1801, in opposition to

John Adams, was regarded as the triumph of the democratic over the

federal party; then, as at all times, the vanquished party exhaled its

rage in outcries, murmurs, and incendiary pamphlets. The newspapers,

which were its organs, declaimed incessantly against the new president,

and against all the persons who aided him to suppress unnecessary

offices; reduce the army to what was strictly necessary, and to give to

the constitution that steady movement which agrees so well with the

simplicity of its conception. But Jefferson contemned these idle

clamours, and did not remit the work of reform and amelioration he had

undertaken. In vain the mistaken zeal of his friends urged him to recur

to a law repressive of the abuses of the press: he repelled their

dangerous suggestions. “I am happy,” he replied, “in this continual

censure which the papers exercise against my administration, because

among all the violence dictated by passion, some truth may be found and

I shall profit by it. Moreover, a government whose acts are all done in

public, whose members live amidst their fellow citizens, to whom all

their words are addressed, and under the eyes of whom all their measures

are executed, has nothing but bad conduct to fear.” Sublime and severe

lesson by which European governments might well profit!

So much wisdom and firmness was not to pass unrewarded in a correctly

thinking nation: Jefferson was re-elected president in 1805. Among the

remarkable circumstances which signalized his administration, was the

acquisition of Louisiana in 1803, which was very advantageous to the

United States.

In 1809 he returned to private life, and sought repose in his retreat of

Monticello; there at the summit of a mountain, which towers far above

the fertile and smiling valley, under a simple roof, but in good taste,

raised under his direction, and we may almost say, by his own hands,

amidst his children and grand-children, by whom he is idolized, he still

devotes all his time and faculties to the amelioration and happiness of

his race.[20] Through his efforts, Charlotteville has beheld her

university erected, richly endowed, and already containing a great

number of pupils. In another year this establishment will be for the

southern and western states, what Cambridge is to those of the north, a

fruitful source of improvement, whence the youth may obtain the

knowledge and principles requisite to the formation of good citizens.

The hospitality of Mr. Jefferson is proverbial, his house is constantly

open, not only to numerous visitors from the neighbourhood, but also to

all the foreign travellers who were attracted by curiosity or the very

natural desire of seeing and conversing with the sage of Monticello. The

dwelling is built in the figure of an irregular octagon, with porticoes

at the east and west, and peristyles on the north and south. Its extent

comprising the peristyles and porticoes is about 110 feet by 90; the

exterior is in the Doric order, and surmounted by balustrades. The

interior of the house is ornamented in the different orders of

architecture, except the composite; the vestibule is Ionic; the dining

room Doric, the drawing room Corinthian, and the dome Attic. The

chambers are ornamented in the different forms of these orders in true

proportion as given by Palladio. Throughout this delightful dwelling are

to be found proofs of the good taste of the proprietor, and of his

enlightened love for the arts. His parlour is ornamented by a beautiful

collection of paintings, among which we remarked with pleasure an

ascension by _Poussin_, a holy family by _Raphael_; a flagellation of

Christ by _Rubens_, and a crucifixion by _Guido_. In the dining room

were four beautiful busts; of Washington, Franklin, Lafayette and Paul

Jones. There are also some other fine pieces of sculpture in different

parts of the house. The library without being extensive is well

selected; but what especially excites the curiosity of visitors is the

rich museum situated at the entrance of the house. This extensive and

excellent collection consists of offensive and defensive arms, dresses,

ornaments and utensils of different savage tribes of North America. Mr.

Trist, son-in-law of Mrs. Randolph, daughter of Mr. Jefferson, an

amiable and enlightened gentleman, pointed out to me the arms which had

belonged to Tecumseh; they are not especially remarkable, as to form or

materials, but one cannot help regarding them with interest when the

extraordinary character of their former owner is known.

Tecumseh, born among the Chippewa Indians, on the frontiers of Canada,

was the chief of his nation, and his courage and talent acquired for him

an immense influence over the neighbouring tribes. This child of nature

was born with the impress of grandeur; a body of perfect symmetry, and a

most imposing aspect, contained the soul of a hero, and one might affirm

that if he had come into existence amidst the lights of civilization,

his vast intelligence would soon have assigned him a place among the

first men of his age. For a long time he secretly nourished the hope of

opposing an insurmountable barrier to the constantly increasing power of

the whites; to this end he had during several years visited nearly all

the Indian tribes to induce them to enter into the league he wished to

form. His persuasive and forceful eloquence had secured him numerous

partisans; already he saw at no distant period, the epoch in which by

raising the tomahawk against the whites he should regenerate his

brethren, when suddenly the war broke out between the United States and

England. Tecumseh was rejoiced at this occurrence, because in his

opinion it favoured his projects, since it would hasten the destruction

of his enemies by their own hands. At first he resolved to remain an

inactive spectator, but soon changed his views; it appeared to him a

wiser policy first to aid in the destruction of the strongest, in order

to have afterwards none but the weakest to attack; and he willingly

yielded to the solicitations of the English, who eagerly sought his

alliance. He was then 40 years old; from his youth he had taken part in

all the engagements against the whites, and still no one could reproach

him with one of those cruel actions so common to his compatriots in the

intoxication of victory. He abhorred bloodshed after battle, and was

often seen defending prisoners from the fury of his own warriors: with

so noble a character, he must soon have blushed at the atrocious conduct

of his allies who basely excited the Indians they had intoxicated to

murder their wounded prisoners; he manifested to them all the contempt

they had inspired, when he refused with haughtiness the rank of

brigadier-general, and the silk scarf presented in the name of the king

of England, as a reward for his bravery at the battles of Brownstown and

Mayagua. Being always pre-occupied with his vast plans, he thought it

right to persist in his alliance with the British, until the Americans

whom he regarded as his most dangerous enemies were destroyed. Called by

his formidable voice, new tribes ranged themselves under his orders, and

it was at the head of the flower of his warriors, that he marched to the

river Thames, to lend for the last time aid to his allies, in the battle

fought with the Americans under general Harrison. From the beginning of

the action, Tecumseh had thrown himself with fury amid the ranks of the

enemy, and had at first shaken them by the audacity of his attack, but

the troops soon rallied, and the combat became horrible. The Indians,

excited by the example of their valiant chief, repeatedly renewed their

attacks, which the Americans repelled with equal intrepidity. In the

midst of the struggle, colonel Johnson advanced almost alone towards a

dense body of Indians, who were rallying under the voice of Tecumseh.

His uniform and white horse rendered him remarkable, and he became a

mark for all shots, and in a moment fell under numerous wounds: at this

instant Tecumseh approached and raised his tomahawk to give him the

death blow; but, struck with his intrepidity, or his unfortunate

situation, he hesitated an instant, and this hesitation proved fatal to

him. Colonel Johnson collecting his strength, and perceiving the extent

of his danger, drew a pistol from his belt and discharged it, almost

touching the breast of Tecumseh, who fell dead by his side. Thus

perished this extraordinary man, upon whom rested all the hopes of many

nations, who daily diminish, and of which civilization will soon destroy

every trace of their past existence. The body of Tecumseh was found

among the dead after the battle, and recognized by the Americans, who,

in respect to the well known valor of the chief, interred it with all

the honours of war.

The plantation surrounding Mr. Jefferson’s dwelling, consists of several

thousand acres, but not more than twelve or fourteen hundred are

cultivated, the rest being still in wood; the principal products are

grain and tobacco. Cultivation appeared to me to be well conducted in

general, but judging from the observations I made, it must be very

expensive, and consequently leave very little profit to the proprietor.

Like all the planters of Virginia, Mr. Jefferson employs slaves to do

his work; that is to say, if he require the labour of fifty negroes, he

must feed, lodge and clothe a hundred, for if from this number of slaves

we subtract the old men, children, and weakly or sick women, certainly

not more than fifty individuals are in a working condition. After all,

it may be added, that these fifty active individuals do not effect more,

than would be accomplished by thirty free men hired by the day, as may

be easily understood. The free labourer, hired by the day, knows that if

he does not exert all his power and all his intelligence, he will cease

to be employed, another more laborious will be hired in his place, and

be will be reduced to misery; the slave labourer, on the contrary knows,

that whatever he may do, his condition will remain unchanged; he is

aware that to preserve the capital which he represents, his master will

be always forced to feed, lodge, clothe, take care of his health, and

defend him; thus without disquiet as without hope for the future, the

slave labourer can have but one desire, that of repose. In fact, what is

it to him whether his master’s prosperity increases or is diminished?

The consequences to him are always the same; is he not always a slave?

From these considerations we may boldly conclude, that thirty free

labourers paid by the day, would do the work of a hundred slaves, which

the owner is obliged to feed and clothe throughout the year, to have

fifty labourers. I suppose that the support of each slave costs but one

franc a day, and the hire of a labourer would be three, there would then

be a difference of ten per cent. a day in the labour, in favour of

cultivation by free hands. This difference does not appear at first very

considerable, but if we then take into account the enormous capital of

50,000 dollars at least for the purchase of the slaves; the fifty-two

Sundays and other holidays, during which nothing is paid to the free

labourer, and during which the slaves eat although they do not work, we

shall then find that the difference is still greater, and shall scarcely

comprehend why a planter (apart from all sentiments of humanity, and

consulting his personal interests exclusively,) should not make his best

efforts to substitute the labour of free men for that of slaves.

The good appearance and gaiety of the negroes at Monticello attested the

humanity of their master, if so noble a character had need of an

attestation; all those with whom I conversed assured me that they found

themselves perfectly happy, and were not subject to bad treatment; that

their task was light, and that they cultivated the grounds of Monticello

with greater satisfaction, because they were nearly certain of not being

torn from their homes to be sent elsewhere, during Mr. Jefferson’s life.

This conversation proved to me that, notwithstanding what some persons

say, it is possible to excite in slaves a love of labour and gain their

affections; this infallible mode would be to attach them to the soil,

and teach them to consider themselves as an inalienable part of the

property to which they belong; to assure them in short, that they should

enjoy the ameliorations or embellishments created by the sweat of their

brows; when they knew that their natal soil was to nourish them to the

end of their days, they would be attached to it, and take pleasure in

rendering it productive. The masters themselves would have more regard

for beings whom they would no longer consider as beasts of burden, which

are to be gotten rid of, if the owner have not talent to guide them.

Obliged to keep them, he would take more care of their moral and

physical improvement; then those horrible markets would cease, which

pitilessly breaking the ties of nature and affection, tear the infant

from its mother, separate the wife from the husband, the brother from

the sister, the unfortunate from the friends to which at least they were

united by the same chain.

The objections to general and immediate emancipation are unanswerable;

the objections to gradual emancipation are subject to discussion; but

the objections against changing slavery into servitude, appear to be

easy of refutation. The government of the United States has given a

great lesson to the whole world in abolishing and punishing as a capital

crime the trade in slaves. Virginia has acquired great claims upon the

gratitude of the friends of humanity in opposing from her infancy the

importation of slaves into her territory; but many palms still remain to

be merited in this career of justice and philanthropy; the first to be

decreed, will belong in my opinion to the states which shall first

replace the _slaves_ by _servants_.

Before leaving Mr. Jefferson, we went with him to visit the University

of Virginia, at Charlotteville; he conveyed us thither in a very elegant

calash, made by negroes on his own place; it appeared to be very well

made, and in its construction I found a powerful argument against those

who pretend that the intelligence of negroes can never be raised to the

height of the mechanic arts.

Every thing had been prepared at Charlotteville, by the citizens and

students, to give a worthy reception to Lafayette. The sight of the

Nation’s Guest, seated at the patriotic banquet, between Jefferson and

Madison, excited in those present an enthusiasm which expressed itself

in enlivening sallies of wit and humour. Mr. Madison, who had arrived

that day at Charlotteville to attend this meeting, was especially

remarkable for the originality of his expressions, and the delicacy of

his allusions: before leaving the table, he gave a toast, “To liberty,

with virtue for her guest, and gratitude for the feast,” which was

received with transports of applause.

After dinner, we visited the establishment; it is composed of two

parallel lines of small buildings, all of different architecture; at the

extremity is another building, constructed after plans of the Parthenon

at Athens, reduced to one-fifth of the original dimensions, containing

the library, and a vast circular saloon for public meetings. All these

different buildings have been superintended by Mr. Jefferson himself,

who passed several hours daily either among the workmen, or amidst the

pupils and professors, who all profited by his wise counsel.

Before taking leave of the youth of Charlotteville, and its respectable

professors, one of the latter took us into a little hall where he showed

us a rattlesnake moving at freedom, upon the floor. It was caught a few

days previous, in the woods, and was intended as a present for Mr.

George Lafayette, who had expressed a desire to obtain one. We

contemplated with pleasure this dangerous reptile, whose piercing eye,

supple movements, livid body, crossed by broad black bands, and sounding

tail, would doubtless have inspired sentiments of another nature, if we

bad not known that his venom had been rendered harmless, by the

extraction of the canulated fangs, through whose instrumentality this

animal so subtlely introduces its poison into the veins of the victims

it strikes. The poison of the rattlesnake is so violent, that it is said

frequently to produce death in less than half an hour. The possibility

of obtaining an efficacious remedy against the bite of this reptile, has

long been, and still is doubted; however, Doctor Thacher affirms

positively, in his excellent Military Journal of 1776, that the

employment of olive oil and mercury perfectly succeeded in his hands, in

saving the life of a soldier bitten by a rattlesnake.

Notwithstanding the happiness enjoyed by general Lafayette in the

company of his old friend Mr. Jefferson, he was obliged to leave him,

because other affections and other engagements still called him from

numerous points. Of this vast republic, of which we have not yet visited

but a small part, although since our landing we have constantly

travelled at the rate of nearly forty miles a day. From Monticello we

went to Montpelier, the charming residence of the ex-president Madison;

there we found with some slight shades of difference the same habits and

virtues as at Monticello.

The career of Mr. Madison has a surprising conformity with that of Mr.

Jefferson, with whom he was always connected by the warmest friendship.

Like his illustrious friend, Mr. Madison, early devoted himself to the

study of law, and while still young, was called upon by his

fellow-citizens to defend their dearest interests in the legislative

assembly; like him he was distinguished by his oratorical talent, and

the boldness of his conceptions, in that congress which immortalized

itself in declaring the country independent. Like him he was twice

called by the people to the chief magistracy of the republic, and

moreover, during a part of his administration, he had to sustain a

foreign war, which terminated gloriously; like him, finally, in leaving

the government-house of the United States, he retired to cultivate his

fields, and devote himself to letters, which he had never wholly

relinquished, amid the multifarious occupations of his active political

life.

Mr. Madison at the time of our visit was seventy-four years of age, but

his well preserved frame contained a youthful soul full of sensibility,

which he did not hesitate to show, when he expressed to general

Lafayette the pleasure he felt at having him in his house. Although the

habit of reflection and application, give to his countenance an aspect

of severity, all the impressions of his heart are rapidly depicted in

his features, and his conversation is usually animated with a gentle

gaiety. Mrs. Madison also contributes much by the graces of her mind,

and the amenity of her character to exalt the excellence of that frank

hospitality with which strangers are received at Montpelier.

The four days passed with Mr. Madison were agreeably employed in

promenades over his beautiful estate, and still more agreeably by our

evening conversations, particularly concerning all the great American

interests, which are so dear to general Lafayette. The society which at

this time habitually assembled at Montpelier, was almost entirely

composed of the neighbouring planters, who for the most part appeared as

well versed in all great political questions as in agriculture.

Lafayette, who though perfectly understanding the disagreeable situation

of American slaveholders, and respecting generally the motives which

prevent them from more rapidly advancing in the definitive emancipation

of the blacks, never missed an opportunity to defend the right _which

all men without exception_ have to liberty, broached among the friends

of Mr. Madison the question of slavery. It was approached and discussed

by them frankly, and in a manner to confirm me in the opinion I had

previously formed concerning the noble sentiments of the majority of

Virginians upon this deplorable circumstance. It appears to me, that

slavery cannot exist a long time in Virginia, because all enlightened

men condemn the principle of it, and when public opinion condemns a

principle, its consequences cannot long continue to subsist.

After the question of personal slavery in the United States, the equally

important question of the spiritual slavery, to which some of the people

of Europe are condemned by the _dominant_ or _state religions_, was

discussed. The friends of Mr. Madison congratulated themselves, that at

least this sort of slavery was unknown, in their beloved country; they

entered into some details which showed me that they were not men to be

contented with what we incessantly invoke as a benefit in Europe, that

is religious _tolerance_. “Tolerance,” said one of them, “is beyond

doubt preferable to persecution, but it would always be insupportable in

a free country, because it marks an insulting pride. To give one

religion the right to tolerate, and subject others to the disgrace of

being tolerated, it would be first necessary to prove that the

_tolerant_ is the only good one, and that all the _tolerated_ were bad.

This proof is unobtainable, since each believes his own religion to be

the best. The word _toleration_ is, therefore, an insult, and cannot

reasonably be replaced except by the word _liberty_. This liberty we now

enjoy in the fullest sense of the term, and we are sure that throughout

our twenty-four states, not one is to be found in which it is not better

understood than in any part of Europe. However, we have also had our

times of _tolerance_, indeed I may say of _intolerance_; before our

glorious revolution, for instance, we still groaned under laws, by which

for certain degrees of heresy, a father could be deprived of the

privilege of educating his own children. Every individual might lose the

rights of citizen, and a part of the protection of the laws, and

sometimes even be burnt. At present there is a happy difference; thanks

to our new laws, worthy of the immortal sages who framed them, no

individual can be forced to observe any religious worship, nor to

frequent any place, nor to support any minister, of whatever religion he

may be, nor be constrained, retained, disturbed or oppressed in his own

person, or his goods; in short he cannot be persecuted in any manner on

account of his religious opinions; but all men have liberty to _profess

and sustain by reasoning_ their religious opinions, and these opinions

can neither diminish nor increase any of their civil rights.”

To this interesting conversation I paid particular attention; one of the

persons engaged in it, who had observed me, took me aside while tea was

preparing, and said:—“Since you take so deep an interest in every thing

relating to the formation of our institutions, I will tell you of one

which was not mentioned by my friend for fear of offending the modesty

of our host.—Previous to the revolution, the episcopal religion was the

prevailing form of worship in this state; its ministers, dissatisfied at

the equality established between different sects by the law of 1776, and

still more with the law of 1779, which deprived them of the

appointments, which they had previously received from government,

declared that they could not be contented with voluntary contributions,

and caused a petition to be presented to the general assembly in 1784–5,

praying for the support of the ministers of the gospel by the

government. This petition supported by the most popular talents of the

house, appeared likely to triumph; to paralyze this success, some

members proposed and obtained a reference of the petition to the ensuing

session, as well as to have it printed and submitted to public

examination; during the interval, Colonels Mason and G. Nicholas

besought Mr. Madison to draw up a refutation of the petition. This

refutation was diffused extensively among the people, and was so

successful, that it soon received the signatures of vast numbers of

persons of all sects, and at the following session the petition was

altogether rejected. You will no doubt be pleased to read this

production, which in my opinion, contains all that can be most strongly

and judiciously said in favour of religious liberty. On reading this

refutation, I found it worthy of the commendations bestowed. The

principles it contains, are simple, reasonable, and most eloquently

established and defended.”

On the 19th of November, we left Montpelier to go to Fredericksburg by

the way of Orange Court-house, a numerous escort commanded by Captain

Mason came in the morning to attend General Lafayette, and Mr. Madison

wished to accompany him. On arriving at Orange Court-house, we found all

the inhabitants drawn up in two lines, between which the general

advanced to Col. Barbour, the governor of the state of Virginia, deputed

by his fellow citizens to make an address to the nation’s guest. In

passing along these two lines, the general received the expression of

the regrets of some old revolutionary soldiers, who had been prevented

by age and the distance from joining their military companions at the

Yorktown celebration; he consoled them by evidences of friendship and

remembrance, for which they seemed very grateful. After Col. Barbour’s

address, Miss Derby presented him in the name of her youthful companions

with a nosegay of flowers, and accompanied it by a tender and respectful

address.—We did not remain longer than was necessary to be present at an

entertainment, over which Col. Barbour presided, who according to

custom, proclaimed thirteen toasts during the dessert; these official or

regular toasts were followed by numerous volunteers, all expressive of

patriotism and gratitude. After the dinner, we parted from Mr. Madison,

who, notwithstanding his seventy-four years, mounted his horse with

activity, and set out through the woods for his peaceful dwelling. We

continued on our journey, accompanied by the escort with which we

arrived, now considerably augmented by a large number of citizens, who

wished to prolong the pleasure of being near Lafayette.

We had advanced but a little way when we discovered a great crowd

collected about a triumphal arch, erected at the intersection of the

road, and a narrow path scarcely to be distinguished from the thickness

of the wood. We soon learned, that this path, over which young females

were strewing flowers, and which the crowd passed over with such

touching interest, was the road opened by Lafayette, on the 15th June,

1781, in order to make a forced march from the banks of the Rapidan to

Michunk Creek, where Cornwallis was much astonished to find him prepared

for battle, at the moment he thought he might seize without resistance

upon the magazines of the middle states established at Albemarle. This

new proof of the honourable recollection in which the Americans held all

his actions, deeply affected Lafayette. He was moved almost to tears,

when he was covered with flowers by the young ladies, when in descending

from his carriage be found himself surrounded and tenderly embraced by

the citizens, who awaited him under the triumphal arch. He conversed a

long time with them, and related to the young people how strongly these

places reminded him of the obligations he owed to their parents. “It was

here,” said he, “at the moment when I effected by this path a movement

which would have been so fatal, if unsuccessful, that they abandoned

their harvests to join my little army, and during that whole campaign,

the separation from their families, fatigues of every description, the

ruinous abandonment of agriculture, and the difficulty of procuring

provisions, did not prevent them from remaining with the army far beyond

the time we had any right to ask of them.” But Lafayette did not relate,

because modesty prevented him, the address with which he raised the

courage of the most dejected, and kept those nearest himself, who were

most disposed to withdraw. A detachment of militia were retained beyond

their time, by the tardiness of those who were to relieve them, and

complaining daily more and more, the general agreed that their

discontent was well founded; expressed how sensible he was of the

considerable injury which must result to those who were so long detained

from homeland especially by this unexpected delay, which he could not

provide against. He added that he could not imagine the cause of it;

apologized for having retained them beyond their time, and declared that

he had not the courage to keep them longer, and therefore gave

permission to all to withdraw, adding, that for his own part he could

not abandon the post confided to him, and should remain with the small

number of regular troops he had. He knew perfectly the character of the

men he commanded, and by this method obtained the desired results, for

after speaking thus he would have found it difficult to have induced one

to go, without giving him a certificate that he was obliged to leave

him. “Who is the wretch,” said they to each other, “who could ever dream

of abandoning the marquis,” by which name the Americans distinguished

Lafayette throughout the war. This mode of designating him had become so

habitual throughout the United States, that it was still used when we

arrived at New York. During several days the newspapers, in giving an

account of his movements, and of the entertainments given to him, used

no other appellation in speaking of him, and they only relinquished it

when they learned that the general constantly refused to resume this

title, since his renunciation of it in the national assembly. His

cotemporaries had a great deal of difficulty in renouncing an old habit

which was not without its charms to them, since it reminded them of

their youthful days. I recollect at Philadelphia an old lady, who had

known him well during the revolution, and who probably thought of him as

he appeared at that time, pressed towards him through the crowd, saying,

“Let me pass, that I may again see that good young marquis.”

It was not until sunset on the 20th of November, that we arrived at

Fredericksburgh, where the general was received by the little boys

formed into a battalion under the name of Lafayette Cadets; the night

was already dark, and the town glittered with illumination, when we

arrived at the place where the mayor pronounced his welcome. A splendid

supper, and a ball in which all the ladies of Fredericksburg were

present, terminated the day. Next day being Sunday, we went to the

Episcopal church, escorted by the free masons in grand ceremony. The

clergyman who officiated was a member of the lodge. On Monday we passed

part of the day with Captain Lewis, a nephew of General Washington, and

in the evening we set out for Washington, accompanied for several miles

by the inhabitants of Fredericksburgh. At the Strafford county line, the

extremity of which we crossed, the militia met the general to escort him

to the Potomac, where the vessel waited for us, and conveyed us to

Washington by a pleasant night voyage.

-----

Footnote 1:

Where can one be better than in the bosom of his family? This

quartetto of Gretry is a great favourite among the French national

airs, and is always played or sung on similar occasions. Gretry in his

memoirs, relates wonderful effects of this piece of music; of families

reconciled who had been before at deadly variance.—D.

Footnote 2:

Gnaphalium, the everlasting flower. This among the French is

emblematic of lasting affection.—D.

Footnote 3:

The state of New York, it is believed, is the only one in our union,

that has thus wisely and prudently provided for the complete, but

gradual emancipation of the coloured race; by admitting those only to

the full enjoyment of the rights of citizens, who by their industry

and economy, have acquired a certain amount of property, and thus

given a pledge to the country, for their future good conduct. It

seems, indeed, the best course to be pursued with a population which

circumstances have placed in an inferior degree of civilization to the

rest of the community. If ever, as we must hope, this country is to be

freed from the pest of slavery, it is by such measures as this (in

connection with others) that the event is to be prepared, so that it

may be met without some dreadful catastrophe. Our enthusiastic author,

who sees in this an unjust and invidious distinction between the two

races, had not yet, as his interlocutor very properly observes,

prepared his mind for a correct judgment, by a visit to those states,

whose situation requires that their friends and neighbours should not

be too hasty in carrying into effect their liberal theories; but

should guard and measure their steps with a view to future, as well as

present circumstances, and to the ultimate welfare and safety of the

whole American union.—D.

Footnote 4:

Those whom our author here calls _magistrates_, were probably no other

than _constables_, who are the executive officers of our police. The

service of _Justices of the Peace_, whom in this country we

distinguish by the name of _magistrates_, is seldom required on such

occasions.—D.

Footnote 5:

It is a pity that the proper spelling of the name of this brave man

has not been preserved. As written here, it has not the appearance nor

the sound of a French name. It was probably _Molan_, or _Molant_, or

perhaps _Moulin_. _Molang_ is evidently a corrupt spelling.—D.

Footnote 6:

The people of Connecticut are not more litigious than those of the

other states, nor are lawyers more plentiful among them, or live more

at the people’s expense. The members of the legal profession are as

honourable, and as liberal, in this country, as in any part of the

world, and the frequency of law suits which has induced the unfounded

charge of litigiousness against the people of America, is not to be

ascribed to their natural disposition, but to the confusion and

uncertainty of the laws which the Normans introduced into England, and

the English into this country. The fathers of this complicated code,

the _Normans_, were stigmatized in France, before the Revolution, as a

litigious people, and this character was produced by the same cause.

In England, the excess of litigation is prevented by measures which we

do not wish to see introduced among us. High and heavy taxes upon

legal proceedings, effectually protect the rich against the litigation

of the poor, and prevent the latter from entertaining suits against

each other. The evil, however, has reached to such a height, that the

government themselves are setting on foot a revision of the whole

legal system. We have amended it here in a considerable degree; but

much remains yet to be done, and will be done, by prudent and gradual

steps, so that we may not be obliged, at a future day, like our

brethren of England, to tear up the whole edifice from its foundation.

As to the excessive familiarity which is supposed to exist in some

parts of New England and particularly in Connecticut, between young

people before marriage, it has been at all times greatly exaggerated.

However dangerous the custom alluded to might be considered in other

countries, it is certain that in Connecticut, it seldom led to

criminal intercourse, and when it did, the mischief was speedily

repaired by the legal union of the parties. At present the custom has

entirely disappeared, or if it ever exist, it is confined to the very

lowest class of society. There is not a people on earth more truly

moral and religious, than the people of that state, and illegitimate

children are not more numerous in it proportionally, than in the other

parts of the union.—D.

Footnote 7:

Historical, Statistic and Political Description of the United States,

by Warden.

Footnote 8:

Our author evidently means here the _Phi Beta Kappa_ society, which is

an association of students, who meet together at stated times, to

promote and encourage among each other classical learning and the

study of the belles lettres. The denomination which they have assumed,

consists of the first letters of three Greek words, the meaning of

which none are supposed to understand but the initiated. The members

of this association continue to belong to it, not only after the

termination of their collegiate studies, but even after being raised

to the first political honours of the country. The professors and the

heads of the university make it a point to encourage this meritorious

society by all the means in their power.—D.

Footnote 9:

The notions commonly entertained by Europeans relative to the

aborigines of America, are principally derived from the exaggerated

statements of early voyagers, or from the fantastic creations of

romance writers, who, in representing these supposed “children of

nature,” have endowed them with qualities they never possessed, and

bestowed upon them ideas, sentiments, and expressions utterly unknown,

as well as perfectly incomprehensible, to the race. An opinion of the

character of our savages, formed from an examination of the miserable

stragglers which still hang upon the out-skirts of civilization, would

be quite as inadequate and inaccurate. The unvarnished truth is, that

the best of the known tribes exhibit specimens of humanity in its

extreme of degradation, from a more perfect condition of which but

few, faint and almost obliterated traces, are occasionally to be

discerned. Inevitably destined to extinction, they appear, like

another coloured race, to be suffering under the infliction of a

tremendous temporal punishment for some ancient national crime. Such a

conclusion is at least strongly borne out by the history of this

continent, and we have already lived to see Spain beginning to receive

her reward for the part she played in the dreadful tragedies by which

this history is dedecorated; must not the day of retribution for the

United States also arrive?—T.

Footnote 10:

Warden, t. 2de.

Footnote 11:

See this letter in Franklin’s works.

Footnote 12:

The Bowery, and Lafayette theatres, the Mount Pitt Circus, and other

places of public amusement, have been built since. Some of them have

also been burnt down and rebuilt within a short time.

Footnote 13:

The writer was probably not acquainted with the Musical Fund Society

of Philadelphia, which had been but lately established when General

Lafayette arrived, and which is rapidly becoming an excellent school

of music. It has already performed in public in a very creditable

manner, several English and German oratorios, such as Handel’s

Messiah, and Haydn’s Creation. Since Lafayette’s departure from this

country, New York has had an Italian opera led by Garcia, Angrisani,

Signorina Garcia, &c. &c. The New Orleans troop of Comedians has

performed with great applause both at New York and Philadelphia. They

have met with so much encouragement that a regular annual visit is

expected from them.—D.

Footnote 14:

This venerable man is still living in Massachusetts; October, 1829.

Footnote 15:

These were his titles of recommendation! They now serve but to remind

his country of the vast loss sustained by his death!—T.

Footnote 16:

By the existing laws of New York, interments can no longer be made in

the city.—T.

Footnote 17:

American Biography.

Footnote 18:

See Brackenridge’s History of the late War.

Footnote 19:

This miserable pretext, of the _profitableness of the traffic_ to the

merchants [robbers] concerned, was resorted to till the last, in the

British parliamentary discussions relative to abolition, and

unfortunately was allowed to exert considerable influence. The last

time we recollect to have seen this seriously urged as an argument in

favour of the continuance of the slave-trade, was by that prig

BOSWELL, in his life of Dr. Johnson.—T.

Footnote 20:

Eheu! vixit!

END OF VOLUME I.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Transcriber’s note:

1. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.

2. Anachronistic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings retained as

printed.

3. Footnotes have been re-indexed using numbers and collected together

at the end of the last chapter.

Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, Vol. 1 (of 2) Or, Journal of a Voyage to the United States · 第 15 / 15 章