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Transcriber’s note:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
LAFAYETTE IN AMERICA IN 1824 AND 1825;
Or,
Journal of a Voyage
to the
United States:
by
A. LEVASSEUR;
Secretary to General Lafayette during His Journey.
Translated by John D. Godman, M. D.
VOL. I.
Philadelphia:
Carey and Lea.
1829.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit:
Be it remembered, That on the sixth day of November, in the fifty-fourth
year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1829,
Carey and Lea, of the said District, have deposited in this Office the
title of a Book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the
words following, to wit:
“Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825; or Journal of a Voyage to the
United States: by A. Levasseur, Secretary to General Lafayette during
his journey. Translated by John D. Godman, M. D.”
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled
“An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of
maps charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies
during the times therein mentioned.” And also to the act, entitled, “An
act supplementary to an act, entitled, ‘An act for the encouragement of
learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the
authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein
mentioned,’ and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing,
engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”
(Signed) D. CALDWELL,
Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE AUTHOR’S PREFACE.
In publishing at this late period the journal of my voyage to the United
States, along with General Lafayette, in 1824 and 1825, I think it right
to account for the circumstances, which have so long delayed this
publication.
The duties of private secretary, which I performed for General
Lafayette, were prolonged for three years after our return. During all
this time, I thought that the intimacy of my relations with him,
rendered it a point of delicacy, that I should not cause to emanate from
his cabinet a narrative, of which he was the principal object. Swayed by
this sentiment, I resisted the solicitations of my friends, and resolved
to await the period, when having become entirely independent, and
entering into a career of industry, I could publish my journal without
exposing any one to participate with me in responsibility for the
opinions or facts produced. This time has now arrived, and there is no
longer any inconvenience in my publishing details, not altogether
unknown, but which cannot be found any where so complete as in this
journal, which moreover, has a character of incontestible authenticity,
for in addition to the testimony of several millions of witnesses, that
might be adduced if necessary, I can also say, _all I relate I have
seen_.
I need not say, that in offering to my friends and the public, the
details of a triumph, which honours the nation that decreed it, as much
as the man who was its object, the recital of which, I hope, will one
day prove the greatest encouragement that can be offered to the sincere
friends of a wise liberty, I am less concerned to adorn my narration,
than to preserve that character of verity, which will be its greatest,
perhaps even its only merit.
Involved during fourteen months in the torrent of popular festivities,
which uninterruptedly followed the steps of Lafayette throughout the
twenty-four states of the Union, it was only during the brief hours of
the night, and as I may say, in presence of the events of the day, that
my journal was written. It necessarily must partake of that extreme
agitation; however I have not thought of making any other change in it,
than that of dividing it into a certain number of chapters, each of
which contains a series of facts more particularly attached to some
epoch or locality. This division appears to me more suitable, because it
allows of the suppression of all the dates, that would embarrass the
narrative, and a multitude of details which could only interest a small
number of individuals.
TRANSLATOR’S NOTE.
The MSS. translation of the first volume, was revised by an intimate
friend and correspondent of the author, P. S. DUPONCEAU, Esq. whose name
is justly associated with deep learning, great intellectual acumen, and
urbanity of manners; he also furnished the occasional notes marked with
the letter D.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Invitation of the Congress of the United States to General
Lafayette: departure from Havre: voyage: arrival at Staten
Island: reception at New York: review of the troops:
entertainment given to Lafayette: statistics of New York: its
constitution, &c. 9
CHAPTER II.
Departure from New York: journey from New York to Boston: entry at
Boston: visit to the University of Cambridge: visit to
Charlestown and Bunker’s hill. 27
CHAPTER III.
First settlements in Massachusetts: sketch of revolutionary events
in this province: its actual condition. 44
CHAPTER IV.
Camp of Savin Hill. Visit to John Adams: review of the regulations
of the Massachusetts militia. 61
CHAPTER V.
Journey from Boston to Portsmouth: sojourn at Portsmouth: history,
constitution and statistics of New Hampshire: journey from
Portsmouth to New York: description of Long Island. 69
CHAPTER VI.
Entertainment given by the Society of Cincinnati: origin and
statutes of the society: visit to the public establishments:
dinner given by the French of New York: ball at Castle Garden. 86
CHAPTER VII.
Voyage upon the Hudson: treason of Arnold: military school at West
Point: Newburgh: Poughkeepsie: Clermont: Catskills Hudson:
Albany: Troy: return to New York. 99
CHAPTER VIII.
Streets of New York: drunkenness: prostitution: lotteries:
hospitality: bankruptcy: women and young girls: luxury: hotels:
police: anecdote: number of passengers arriving at New York, from
1818 till 1819. 122
CHAPTER IX.
Departure from New York: journey from New York to Trenton; battles
of Trenton and Princeton: visit to Joseph Bonaparte: state of New
Jersey. 133
CHAPTER X.
Entry of Philadelphia: history and constitution of the state of
Pennsylvania: commerce, agriculture, &c.: city of Philadelphia:
public buildings, public institutions, prisons, &c. 141
CHAPTER XI.
Voyage from Philadelphia to Baltimore: American aristocracy: fort
M’Henry: entry of Baltimore: description of Baltimore: defence of
the city in 1814. 159
CHAPTER XII.
Farewell to Lafayette by the inhabitants of Baltimore: journey from
Baltimore to Washington: entry of that city: visit to the
President: description of Washington: jesuits. 171
CHAPTER XIII.
Departure for Yorktown: Washington’s tomb: celebration of the
anniversary of the surrender of Yorktown: details of its seige in
1781. 180
CHAPTER XIV.
Journey from Yorktown to Richmond by Williamsburg and
Norfolk.—History of Virginia. Some considerations on negro
slavery. 194
CHAPTER XV.
Masonic entertainment: journey to Petersburgh: visit to Mr.
Jefferson: his mansion: plantation: slaves: Montpelier: Mr.
Madison: religious liberty: return to Washington by Orange
Court-house and Fredericksburg. 210
LAFAYETTE IN AMERICA.
CHAPTER I.
Invitation of the Congress of the United States to general Lafayette:
departure from Havre: voyage: arrival at Staten Island: reception at
New York: review of the troops: entertainments given to Lafayette:
statistics of New York: its constitution, &c.
Nearly half a century had elapsed, since Lafayette, inspired by the love
of glory and liberty, tore himself away from the sweets of domestic
affection and the dangerous seductions of a court, to offer the aid of
an illustrious name and ample fortune, to a nation, which, though
bravely combating for independence, seemed by the inequality of the
contest to be threatened with destruction. After his return to France,
Lafayette, although entirely occupied by the French revolution, for the
success of which he sacrificed his fortune and repose, and sometimes
endangered his popularity and life, often turned his thoughts upon
America, the theatre of his first exploits; in the dungeons of Olmutz,
and under the imperial despotism, he comforted himself with the thought,
that in America, at least, the tree of liberty he had assisted in
planting, bore fruits as delightful as abundant, and that a happy
people, worthy of the happiness they enjoyed, remembered him with
sentiments of lively gratitude. But withheld by various causes, he could
only cherish the wish of again beholding America, without being able to
form any plan for revisiting it. The confidence reposed in him by his
fellow citizens, who after the events of 1815, recalled him into
political activity, appeared to be a still stronger reason for his
remaining in France. Nevertheless in 1824, the intrigues of a corrupt
and corrupting minister, having removed him from the national
representation, he was free from engagements, when the following letter
was addressed to him by the President of the United States.
Washington City, February 24th, 1824.
My dear General,
I wrote you a letter about fifteen days since, by Mr. Brown,
in which I expressed the wish to send to any port in France you
should point out, a frigate to convey you hither, in case you should
be able to visit the United States. Since then, Congress has passed
a resolution on this subject, in which the sincere attachment of the
whole nation to you is expressed, whose ardent desire is once more
to see you amongst them. The period at which you may yield to this
invitation is left entirely at your option, but believe me, whatever
may be your decision, it will be sufficient that you should have the
goodness to inform me of it, and immediate orders will be given for
a government vessel to proceed to any port you will indicate, and
convey you thence to the adopted country of your early youth, which
has always preserved the most grateful recollection of your
important services. I send you herewith the resolution of congress,
and add thereto the assurance of my high consideration and of my
sentiments of affection.
JAMES MONROE.
It was impossible for Lafayette to refuse so honourable and so pressing
an invitation, and the month of July was resolved on for his departure.
He had refused the offer of Congress to send a frigate to convey him
with greater safety and comfort, and he was also obliged to refuse
numerous applications of his fellow citizens, who thinking perhaps that
some new expedition in favour of liberty, was to be attempted, wished to
share with him the perils and the glory. Accompanied only by his son,
and the writer of this narrative, he left Paris on the 11th and arrived
at Havre on the 12th of July, where the Cadmus, an American merchant
ship, had waited for him some weeks.
The patriotism of the citizens of Havre had prepared for him a reception
well calculated to gratify his feelings, but the absurd jealousy of the
police checked this expression of the public sentiment, and would have
produced a scene of disorder and bloodshed, if the inhabitants had been
less discreet. Police officers, gendarmes, and Swiss soldiers, rivalled
each other in their zeal to repress the noble ardor of the citizens,
during the short time that general Lafayette remained among them.
However, it was in the presence of the whole people, and amid the most
vivid demonstrations of public feeling, that he embarked at noon on the
thirteenth of July, 1824.
The weather being fine, and the sea perfectly calm, we embarked with
facility; all the crew, paraded upon deck, waited for the arrival of the
general, with an expression of joy mingled with noble pride. As he
passed beneath the American flag, to whose glory and independence he had
so freely contributed, he was greeted with three cheers, which were
re-echoed by all the crews in port, and by the crowds which thronged the
shore. Some particular friends who accompanied the general on board the
Cadmus, received his final adieus. Almost immediately afterwards, our
sails were filled by a fresh breeze, which wafted us along until we lost
sight of that loved land, in which, in spite of all that may be said or
done, virtue and patriotism will always find courageous defenders.
In a good vessel, skilfully commanded and managed as was the Cadmus, our
voyage could scarcely be otherwise than prosperous. The squall which
struck us the next morning and carried away two of our top-gallant
masts, produced no other effect than that of furnishing us with an
opportunity of admiring the calmness of our excellent captain Allyn in
giving, and the vigour of the crew in executing his orders.
On the first of August we were becalmed, the sea was motionless, and our
progress suspended. Seated on deck, about the general, with four young
American passengers, we contemplated with pleasure the smooth surface of
the ocean which nothing disturbed, when suddenly we perceived as far as
the eye could reach, a black speck near the horizon, that seemed to be
advancing towards us. During nearly half an hour, we were lost in
conjectures as to what that could be, which was evidently approaching us
rapidly; the motion of oars soon enabled us to perceive that it was a
boat, and the sound of a bugle led us to believe it contained soldiers;
we were not mistaken; in a few minutes a light skiff, containing seven
persons dressed in uniform, came alongside. The leader of this
adventurous party, measuring with a steady eye the height of our ship’s
side, called for the ladder, that he might come on board; the
rope-ladder was thrown out, and in a moment his companions and himself
stood on the deck of our ship. He informed us, in rather a cavalier
manner, that they were English officers, who were going in a transport,
which he pointed out at a great distance, and which was becalmed like
ourselves, to serve in garrison at Halifax, N. S. and that the beauty of
the sea, want of something to do, and curiosity, had induced them to pay
us a visit. Our captain received them with cool politeness, the crew
scarcely noticed them, but their aspect and their arrogant manner
appeared to recall the burning of the capitol to the minds of the young
Americans. Notwithstanding their rather discouraging reception, our
English officers began at once to multiply their questions, when captain
Allyn, as a sufficient answer to the whole, pointed out and named to
them general Lafayette; at this name, and so unexpected an appearance,
their manners immediately changed; they took off their hats and
respectfully received the hand which the general presented them, with
cordiality. They were then invited into the cabin, where refreshments
were served. Conversation followed, but frequently during its
continuance, they gazed sometimes at the general, and then at the
admirable arrangements of the vessel and crew, which examination
appeared to cause them much absence of mind. How many recollections, in
fact, must have been awakened by the sight of these Americans, but a
short time since their tributaries, now their powerful rivals, conveying
to their country the man who had so efficiently aided them in its noble
and just struggle for liberty against oppression. After half an hour’s
conversation, as the sun began to decline, they took leave, accepting
very frankly some bottles of madeira and claret, which our captain had
stowed in their boat.
Our voyage was continued without any event of importance, until the
14th, when we descried land. The next morning at day-break, the pilot
came on board, and in a few hours we could easily distinguish the fresh
verdure which adorns Staten-island, the charming white dwellings which
enlivened it, and the movement of its inhabitants, which the expectation
of some great event had caused in all haste to run down to the shore.
Already the sea around us was covered with a multitude of long, light
and narrow boats, managed by vigorous, active men, the neatness of whose
dress and the propriety of whose language contrasted singularly with the
ideas which in Europe are generally associated with the sight of mere
sailors. As soon as one of these boats arrived near the ship, her course
was slackened; those on board cast anxious looks towards our deck,
inquiring of our sailors if Lafayette were among us; as soon as answered
in the affirmative, joy was expressed in all their features; they turned
quickly to each other, shaking hands and congratulating themselves on
the happiness they were about to enjoy; then returning towards the
vessel, they asked a thousand questions, relative to the general’s
health, how he had borne the voyage, &c. but without noise or disorderly
impatience. We heard them rejoicing among themselves that Lafayette’s
voyage had been pleasant and quick, that his health was good and that
the wishes of their fellow citizens were about to be gratified; and all
as if they had been the children of one family, rejoicing at the return
of a much-loved and long-expected parent. While contemplating this novel
and interesting scene, the thundering of cannon called my attention in
another direction; this was from the artillery of Fort Lafayette, which
announced the arrival of the Cadmus to the city of New York. At the same
moment a steam-boat arrived, and we received on board a deputation, at
the head of which was Mr. Tomkins, son of the Vice-President of the
United States. He came to inform the general, that this being Sunday,
the city of New York, which wished to give him a brilliant reception,
but was unwilling to break the Sabbath, and which moreover had still
some preparations to make, requested him to postpone his entry until the
next day; in the mean time the Vice-President invited him to his house
on Staten-island. The general accepted this invitation, and in a few
minutes afterward, we were on shore, where we found the second officer
of a great republic, on foot, without his coat, and his head covered
with a military cap, cordially greeting his old friend, who on the
morrow was to commence, amidst twelve millions of freemen, the most
brilliant, and at the same time, the purest of triumphs. Mr. Tomkins
conducted us to his house, where we were kindly received by Mrs. Tomkins
and her daughters. But the report of Lafayette’s arrival was quickly
spread over the great city of New York, and the bay was already covered
with boats conveying crowds of citizens, who hastened to Staten-island
to give him the first salutation, that WELCOME, which the whole nation
afterwards repeated with so much enthusiasm.
Very early on the morning of the 16th, the preparations for the
reception of general Lafayette were completed in New York, and about the
same time he received a deputation at Staten-island from the city,
consisting of several members of the municipal corps, and the commanding
general of the militia, who came to announce the arrival of the
steam-boat Chancellor Livingston, which was to convey him to New York.
At one o’clock the cannon of _Fort Lafayette_ gave the signal for
embarking; we immediately descended to the shore where we found numerous
steam-boats, all resembling floating palaces. On board of the Chancellor
Livingston, were the various deputations of the city, the generals and
officers of the militia, the army and navy; a detachment of infantry and
more than two hundred of the principal citizens of New York, among whom
the general recognized many of his old _fellow soldiers_, who threw
themselves into his arms, felicitating themselves on seeing him once
more after so many years and dangers past. During these moving scenes of
gratitude and joy, a delightful music performed the French air “_Où
peut-on être mieux qu’au sein de sa famille_,”[1] and the flotilla began
to move.
It is impossible to describe the majesty of this procession towards the
city. The sea was covered with boats of every sort, elegantly decorated
with flags and filled with people; these boats which were moved with a
swiftness and lightness almost inconceivable, appeared to fly around us.
The Cadmus which followed us, appeared rather to be led in triumph, than
to be towed by the two steam-boats, which accompanied her. As we
advanced, the forts which protect the harbour, and afterwards the houses
bordering on the water, became more distinctly visible: soon after we
could distinguish the crowd which everywhere covered the shore, perceive
its agitation, and hear the shouts of joy. At two o’clock, the general
landed at the battery amid the acclamations of two hundred thousand
voices, which hailed him with sounds of blessing and welcome. The
_Lafayette Guards_ dressed in an elegant and neat uniform, bearing on
their breast the portrait of the general, escorted him in front of the
long line of militia drawn up to receive him. The general, attended by a
numerous and brilliant staff, marched along the front; as he advanced,
each corps presented arms and saluted him with its colours; all were
decorated with a ribband bearing his portrait, and the legend “Welcome
Lafayette;” words which were everywhere written and repeated by every
tongue. During this review, the cannon thundered on the shore, in the
forts, and from all the vessels of war. “Ah! could this thundering
welcome but resound to Europe,” said a young American officer who
accompanied us, “that it might inspire the powers which govern you with
the love of virtue, and the people with the love of liberty!” These
wishes which were also those of my own heart, turned my thoughts to my
own country, and drew from me an involuntary sigh.
At the extremity of the line of troops, elegant carriages were in
waiting. General Lafayette was seated in a car drawn by four white
horses, and in the midst of an immense crowd, we went to the City Hall.
On our way, all the streets were decorated with flags and drapery, and
from all the windows flowers and wreaths were showered upon the general.
On his arrival at the City Hall, he was received by the municipal
authorities, at the head of whom was the Mayor, who addressed the
general, on behalf of the citizens in an animated and appropriate
manner.
After the general had expressed his grateful sense of the honorable
manner in which he had been received, and his admiration at the
prodigies he witnessed, we were conducted to the peristyle of the City
Hall, to see that army of militia file off, which we had found drawn up
in line on the battery. We could at our ease remark its composition and
equipments; its composition is that of a truly national army, being
formed entirely of young and vigorous citizens, capable of bearing arms
and enduring fatigue, without distinction of wealth or birth. The firm
march of the divisions, and the martial air of the men, appeared to me a
proof of the care, with which each individual prepared himself to be, in
case of need, a defender of his country. The artillery which followed
the infantry is formidable in number, but I believe is far from
fulfilling the conditions necessary to constitute a good light
artillery. The variety of caliber must necessarily prove an
embarrassment in providing munitions for a campaign. It is said this
inconvenience will soon disappear, because the government has undertaken
to furnish cannon to every new company that is organized, and that the
guns will be cast only of a very small number of determined calibers.
After the troops had defiled, we entered the great saloon of the City
Hall, which is adorned with the portraits of many men who, by their
talents or valor, have rendered service to their country: among the
portraits was one of general Lafayette. The doors of this saloon were
left open to the public, which pressed towards it, and during more than
two hours the general was as it were, given up to the enthusiasm of the
people. Mothers surrounded him, presenting their children and asking his
blessing, which having obtained, they embraced their offspring with
renewed tenderness; feeble old men appeared to become re-animated in
talking to him of the numerous battles in which they had been engaged
with him for the sake of liberty. Men of colour reminded him with
tenderness of his philanthropical efforts at various periods, to replace
them in the rank, which horrid prejudices still deny them in some
countries; young men whose hard and blackened hands announced their
laborious occupations, stopped before him and said with energy, “We also
belong to the ten millions who are indebted to you for liberty and
happiness!” Many others wished to speak to him, but were prevented by
their tears; those who could not approach him, endeavoured to compensate
for it by addressing George Lafayette, whom they pressed in their arms,
while talking to him of their admiration for his father. At five
o’clock, the general with difficulty separated himself from the embraces
of his numerous friends, and was conducted to the City Hotel, which had
been magnificently fitted up for his reception. The national standard
displayed over the door, indicated from afar the residence of “The
Nation’s Guest,” the glorious and moving title by which he was greeted
with acclamations, when he entered. A splendid dinner, at which all the
civil and military authorities were present, terminated this day, which
alone might be considered as a glorious recompense for the greatest
sacrifices, yet which, however, was but the prelude to the unexampled
triumph reserved for Lafayette.
During the four following days, the general found it difficult to divide
his time in such a manner as to satisfy the wishes of all his friends.
He devoted, daily, two hours to the public in the City Hall, into which
the crowd pressed as on the first day, and he there received numerous
deputations from neighbouring cities, and different states, which
expressed their desire and hope of receiving him. The rest of the time
was employed in attending the meetings of the learned societies of the
city. The Historical society held an extraordinary session, under the
presidency of Dr. Hosack, and received him and his son as honorary
members. The members of the bar, the society of the Cincinnati, and the
French residents of New York came to compliment him. The latter, under
their president Mr. Monneron, expressed with animation the sentiments
which the triumph of their compatriot inspired. At the conclusion of his
address, a little girl carried by her father, saluted the general, and
placed a chaplet of _immortelles_[2] on his head. The general answered
it with deep emotion.
At the mention of the best days of our revolution, every one felt
himself deeply affected, and came to shake hands with the general,
saying, “Yes, the condition of an immense majority of the people is
improved. May France carefully preserve the remains of the public
liberties won by the revolution.”
On the 18th, the officers of the navy wished to entertain the guest of
the nation, who crossed the East river in a steam-boat to Brooklyn,
where the navy yard and marine arsenal are situated. On this short
passage, the general was saluted by the guns of several frigates and
ships of the line lying at anchor. This visit, which the naval officers
knew how to render both agreeable and interesting, gave us an
opportunity of examining a fine steam-frigate. This formidable machine
resembles a floating fortification; its sides strengthened by strong
masonry, are shot proof; its necessarily slow movements do not allow of
its being used in the open sea, but render it very suitable for the
defence of the coasts, the threatened points of which it can readily
cover, by placing itself under the protection of the land batteries. It
is said that the government intends to complete its system of maritime
defence, by the construction of many similar frigates.
From Brooklyn we could at our pleasure contemplate the aspect of New
York, its harbour and immense bay. I believe it is difficult to find a
more picturesque and at the same time more commanding view. The Hudson
and East rivers, of which the latter is only an arm of the sea running
between Long Island and the continent, wash two sides of the great
triangle upon which the city stands, and meeting in front of the
battery, mingle their waters in the bay formed by Long and Staten
Islands. At the wharves which margin the two rivers, we behold forests
of masts at all seasons, which present to the admiring beholder the
flags of all nations. The town which in 1615 was nothing but a small
fort built by the Dutch, is at present the most populous, the largest
and richest city of the New World. Excepting the City Hall, there is not
a single public edifice worthy of the attention of an artist; but to
compensate for this, the breadth of the streets, the goodness of the
pavements, and the neatness of the houses are all admirably calculated
for the comfort and health of the inhabitants. Its extent and population
annually increases in a remarkable manner. In 1820, it contained 120,916
inhabitants; at present the number is 170,000, in which is included the
population of Brooklyn, which should be considered as a suburb of New
York. Notwithstanding the great advantages of its situation, its
commerce and its resources, the city of New York is not the seat of
government for that State. In this happy country where every thing is
more calculated for the good of the citizen than for the satisfaction of
the authorities, it is necessary, before all other requisites, that a
city should be as near the centre of a state as possible, in order to be
selected as the seat of government. The city New York is at the
extremity of the state. It has, however, a sufficient number of other
advantages; the security of its harbour; the vastness of its bay,
capable of containing all the fleets in the world; the facility of its
internal communications by the navigation of the Hudson, and especially
by the grand canal which unites the waters of Lake Erie with the ocean,
must always make it one of the most important commercial situations.
More than eighty steam-boats, always ready to brave contrary winds,
convey in every direction, not only the products of New York, but of all
the adjacent states.
In 1820, the exports from the port of New York amounted to 13,162,000
dollars, $7,899,080 of which were in the especial products of New York
state. These details which were given me by a naval officer, while from
the heights of Brooklyn, I gazed upon the imposing scene around, greatly
excited my curiosity, and induced me to lay hold of the first favourable
opportunity to gain a more extensive knowledge in relation to a city and
state, so suddenly emerging to such a state of grandeur and prosperity.
Nor was my gratification long delayed. The same evening, after a dinner
which had been enlivened by the presence of a great number of the
distinguished men of New York, I found myself near Mr. M., an old
gentleman, whose conversation is always interesting and instructive;
during dinner he had informed me that after having devoted his youth to
the establishment of the independence of his country, he had not since
ceased to employ himself in augmenting the means of happiness to his
fellow-citizens. Notwithstanding the circumspection with which I asked
my first questions, he soon discovered my wishes, and having seated
ourselves in a corner of the room, he made the following observations.
“I hope, although our country is still very new, and has not yet like
Europe enjoyed the advantage of a long civilization, that you will not
receive the less pleasure from your visit. You will not find the arts
and sciences carried to the high degree of perfection here, in which
they exist in France, but every where you will discover peace, abundance
and liberty; you will see almost every where, a numerous and active
population, procuring with facility the necessaries of life, by an
industry which government has no power to interrupt; and this view is
sufficiently rare in Europe, I believe, to be worthy of attention: but
without entering into details, which you had better collect yourself
during your excursions, I will by giving you a short historical and
statistical view of this state, show you results, in which you will
probably be obliged to recognize the influence of our institutions,
which we have not the vanity to consider perfect, but which we believe,
nevertheless, to be superior to those of all the nations that have
preceded us in the vast career of civilization. Our origin is not lost
like yours in the night of time, and the gods have never been at the
trouble of showing by prodigies, the interest they took in our first
establishments. The science of history is not, therefore, among us
monopolized, by a few of the initiated. It is a national domain whose
limits, still very close to us, may easily be examined and understood by
everyone. It was in 1609, that the Hudson was discovered by the
navigator whose name it bears. As early as 1610, some Hollanders had
built their cabins by the side of the Indian lodges; but it was not
until 1614, that permanent establishments were made. Soon after the
English came to dispute with the Dutch, the possession of a country that
belonged to neither, and the blood-stained soil was covered with
fortresses. Finally a treaty was made in 1674, and in which the
legitimate proprietors were certainly not consulted, assuring tranquil
possession to the English. In 1683, the colonists for the first time
assembled a representative body to regulate their affairs, but James II.
of England alarmed at the representative system and publications from
the press, proscribed both. The reign of Mary, who came to the throne in
1689, gave more liberty to the colonists, who in 1691 re-assembled their
representatives. The population was then considerably augmented by
emigrants from Germany, who came in great numbers to settle in the
province. The first journal published in the colony was printed in 1733,
but after the following year the press was altogether silenced, and the
colonists again fell under arbitrary rule. In spite of the despotism,
which during the next twenty years, weighed down the colony, the people
remained strongly attached to England, and were very active in the war
which that power carried on against France in 1754. Finally in 1765,
their patience was tried to the utmost; they burned the law establishing
the stamp-tax, refused English importations, and ardently engaged in the
revolutionary war. The state of New York, during the entire duration of
that struggle, was the theatre of operations, and the city was almost
constantly in possession of the enemy; but the ardor of the people was
undiminished. I need not enter into the details of that glorious
campaign, which had our enfranchisement for its result. Placed as you
have been near the man, who shared the labours of our immortal
Washington, you doubtless have frequent opportunities of collecting from
his lips more exact and interesting relations than I can give you. Let
us now pass on to a view of our present situation.
“From the peace of 1783, our state has made surprising advances of every
sort. Our territory has been ascertained, and our limits determined by
compacts with the neighbouring states. At present we are bounded on the
north by Lower Canada, on the east by the states of Vermont,
Massachusetts and Connecticut; on the south by New Jersey and
Pennsylvania, and on the west and north-west by Upper Canada, from which
we are separated by Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, the Niagara and St.
Lawrence. Within these bounds, the surface of our territory measures
46,200 miles. Eighty thousand souls, at most, were scattered over this
immense extent at the beginning of our revolutionary war.
Notwithstanding the continuance of this contest for eight years, the
population increased, and amounted in 1788 to 200,000, a number but
little exceeding the present actual population of the city alone. Since
that period, the increase has taken place in a ratio, which of itself
will suffice to demonstrate the superiority of our institutions over the
colonial government, from which we had freed ourselves. In 1790, the
general Census gave us a population of 349,120 souls; in 1800, 586,050;
in 1810, 959,049, and in 1820 of 1,372,812; while at the present time we
count a population of 1,616,000 souls.
“Our agriculture, manufactures and commerce have been developed in
proportion to the increase of our population. Wheat is the principal
product of the southern part of the state; in the west we raise hemp in
great quantity. 280,000 persons at least are employed in agriculture,
and cultivate 169,167 acres of good land. We can readily collect in the
state 1,513,421 horned cattle; 3,496,539 sheep; 349,638 horses, and
1,467,573 hogs. Almost every county has an agricultural society formed
of the most enlightened citizens, who devote themselves successfully to
the advancement of agriculture, and even to the progress of the arts.
“A capital of 15,000,000 of dollars, and about 70,000 persons are
employed in our various manufactories, which are principally situated in
the vicinity of New York city; upon the banks of the Hudson; near to
Utica, and in the fertile western regions. One of the last computations,
informs us that we have 170 forges; 125 oil mills; seven pearl-ash
factories; 250 cotton and woollen manufactories; 1,222 fulling mills;
1,129 distilleries; 2,005 potash factories; 1,584 carding machines;
2,264 flour-mills; 5,595 saw-mills,—but I perceive,” said my complaisant
friend, interrupting himself, “how much you are astonished at these
details, thinking perhaps that I exaggerate, or that my memory enfeebled
by age, recounts imaginary numbers. You can readily convince yourself of
the exactness of my calculations. Examine Melish’s excellent work,
entitled Geographical description of the United States, a work carefully
prepared, and from the most authentic documents, and you may there find
numerous other views, which at this moment escape my memory, that will
excite your surprise to a very different degree. If you were acquainted
with our institutions,” said he, with growing animation, “you would
better comprehend, how with us every thing turning to the benefit of the
community, necessarily adds every day to its prosperity and happiness.
Our simple and economical government has no need as with you, frequently
to seize upon the necessaries of the citizen to cover expenses, which no
one has power nor courage to control. Whatever each of us earns by his
industry during one year, remains and augments his means of industry for
the year following, whence flows the rapid augmentation of wealth at
which you are so much surprised.
“I have now to speak of the form of our government. I shall be very
brief, for it grows late, and I believe you will stand in need of some
hours of repose, to enable you to endure the fatigues of the
entertainments we know to have been long since prepared, on the route
General Lafayette is to travel.
“The constitution of New York state was adopted in 1777; it was amended
in 1801, and again in 1821. The authors of our first constitution,
thought correctly, I believe, that the people should always have the
right to modify the laws according as their situations and necessities
were changed; we have twice, already, profited by this privilege, as
above stated, and it may be presumed that our posterity, profiting by
our experience and their own knowledge, will still farther perfect this
work of their ancestors. This constitution thus revised, is very similar
to that of other states of the union, and establishes three distinct
powers. These powers, emanating from the people, are the legislative,
executive and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a senate and
assembly of representatives. The senate is composed of thirty-two
members, elected for four years, and one fourth of it is renewed every
year. To be a senator, it is requisite to be thirty years of age and an
owner of property. The house of representatives, or assembly, is
composed of one hundred and twenty-eight members, elected annually by
the different counties, according to their population. The executive
power is confided to a governor and lieutenant governor elected by the
people, bi-ennially. The governor has the right of nominating to all the
public offices; but his nominations must be approved by the senate. The
highest judiciary authority is vested in a court of appeal, composed of
the senate, of the chancellor, and the judges of the supreme court.
These, as well as the district judges are not removable, but cannot
perform their function after their sixtieth year.” “How,” exclaimed I,
“a judge declared incapable at sixty years of age? Do you think then
that the human faculties are so very limited, or that this premature
incapacity is owing to the influence of your climate?” “Neither the one
nor the other,” replied he, “it is merely a great error committed by the
authors of our political code; it is hoped that it will be corrected at
the first revision of our constitution. It is truly absurd to dismiss a
judge at the moment when age and experience have enlightened his mind
and ripened his judgment. It is cruel also to discharge him at an age
when neither time nor energy enough is left him to commence a new
career, and consequently exposes him to the danger of ending miserably a
life honorably commenced in the service of his country.
“Every white man, having attained the age of 21 years, resided six
months in the state, and paid some tax during the electoral year, has
the right of voting. Every man of colour, 21 years old, having been
three years a citizen, a holder of property, and paying a tax of 250
dollars, has also the right of suffrage. This distinction of colours may
surprise you, I shall not attempt to justify it, but shall content
myself with requesting you, before you condemn it, to wait until you
shall have passed through the different parts of our union, before you
form your judgment of the relative conditions of the two races.[3]
“This government which is sufficient for all our wants, does not cost us
very dear; its expenses together with the salaries of the principal
officers, does not exceed 300,000 francs per annum. The revenue of our
western salines alone, amounts to as great a sum; the money arising from
the sale of public lands, of our funds placed in banks, of different
investments in public and private institutions, is reserved for the
expenses of the state, and when we have any extraordinary expenditures
to meet, such as the purchase of arms, military equipage, the building
of arsenals, furnishing of magazines, &c., we are not obliged to
increase our taxes, which have not varied since the year 1800, and are
so slight that they do not exceed the thousandth part of the value of
the property taxed.
“Thanks to its economy and good administration, the government has still
found means to apply a fund of 1,730,000 dollars to public instruction.
This year the treasury has expended 730,000 dollars upon the schools,
which moreover have received from private subscription more than 150,000
dollars; so that at this moment there are 7,642 public schools
established in the different districts, employed in imparting
instruction to 403,000 children and youth, that is to say, to one fourth
of the population.”
It was now midnight, and every one else had retired, while I still
continued to listen eagerly to the interesting details given to me by
Mr. M. when we were suddenly interrupted by a great tumult of voices,
mingled with the sound of bells and the rumbling of fire engines over
the pavement. “This is fortunate for you,” said my friend, “fire has
broken out in some part of the town, go to it; what you will witness,
will teach you more of our habits of order and police, than I could tell
you during all the rest of the night.” His advice was hardly necessary,
for the moment I had ascertained the cause of the tumult, I began to
move towards the door. On the stairs I met George Lafayette, who was
hurrying down as eagerly as myself. Once in the street, it was only
necessary to follow the crowd in order to arrive at the fire. On our
way, our imaginations were excited, and presented this event,
unfortunate in itself, as still a fortunate circumstance for us, since
it would afford us an opportunity of testifying by our zeal in the midst
of danger, how much we were affected by, and grateful for, the infinite
kindnesses the citizens of New York had shown us since our arrival.
After a long race we reached the extremity of a street, opening on one
of the wharves of the East river; here we found the burning house. The
fire had caught first in a store-house filled with combustible
materials, and had quickly communicated to some neighbouring frame
buildings. The flames which blazed up with violence, gave us a fair
opportunity to behold the situation of the conflagration, and the
surrounding crowd. Five or six thousand persons standing upon the
wharves, or mounted upon the masts of vessels, remained still and almost
as silent, as if they were at a theatrical exhibition. This silence was
only interrupted by the horrible crackling of the rafters, which every
moment were tumbling amid the flames, by the monotonous sounds of the
engines, and the orders of their directors. To get near the burning
house, it was necessary to traverse a great part of the surrounding
crowd, which was difficult; but by the light of the fire we were
recognized by some one near us, who pronounced the name of Lafayette.
This name, repeated from mouth to mouth, was the lucky talisman which
opened our way to the desired point. There, in a vast space left free by
the crowd, were more than thirty fire engines, some of which only played
upon the fire, while the others supplied them with water by means of
their long hose. Upon the platform of each of the engines was the
director with his speaking trumpet, commanding the twenty men working
the engine. When the men belonging to one engine were fatigued, they
were instantly replaced by others coming out of the crowd, at the order
of the director, who called in a loud voice, “twenty men of such a
company, advance;” immediately the number of men demanded rushed to the
engine requiring assistance, and the wearied men retired to the crowd
where they remained peaceable spectators. In front of the crowd were
some police officers, who were distinguished by their long white staves,
by means of which they kept order, placing them horizontally before the
most impatient, and only allowing those to pass who were called for by
the directors of the engines. We then perceived that this calm and
obedient crowd were nothing else than the young men enrolled in the
engine companies. One of the police officers, who had dined with us in
the evening, recognized us, and addressed to us some compliments. “We
take a lively interest in the misfortune that demands your presence
here,” said George Lafayette, “and should be very happy if our feeble
services could be of any utility.” “We thank you,” said the officer,
“but you can see for yourselves how little we need assistance; but,
however, if you wish to approach nearer to judge of the result of our
efforts, follow me.” He conducted us into the midst of the engines, and
there we saw with what boldness and dexterity these youthful volunteers
devoted themselves to the preservation of their fellow-citizens. We
stopped for a moment near the engine which was nighest to the burning
house, and offered our services, which were accepted, but in a manner
which showed it to be done solely through politeness. In five minutes
the two young men returned to reclaim their places, after kindly shaking
hands with us. In spite of its violence the conflagration was forced to
submit to the skill of the firemen, and we soon perceived that all
danger was past. In retiring, we could not refrain from expressing to
the police officer, our admiration at the order and quiet which had
constantly reigned throughout this great crowd, which a few
magistrates[4] had sufficed to maintain, without the aid of a single
bayonet or uniform, and we were convinced on returning to our hotel,
that one such sight as we had witnessed was sufficient to prove the
great influence of the habit of order, over a people who are their own
legislators.