The chief difference in the cultivation of Spring and Autumn Crocuses,

is that the corms of the latter should be planted in July, or not later

than August--in fact, at the same time as the Colchicums. The following

are among the best Autumn Crocuses:--_Asturicus_, violet, purple;

_Boryi_, white and yellow; _cancellatus_, white to purple, and lilac;

_caspius_, white tinted rose; _Clusi_, pale purple and white;

_hadriaticus_, white and purple; _iridiflorus_ or _byzantinus_, purple,

lilac; _Karduchorum_, lilac, veined with purple; _longiflorus_, lilac,

yellow, sweet-scented; _medius_, purple, veined, see Plate 33, fig. 117;

_ochroleucus_, creamy-white, orange, see Plate 33, fig. 121;

_pulchellus_, lavender-blue and yellow, veined; _Salzmanni_, lilac to

white, veined; _sativus_, lilac, veined purple; the well-known "Saffron

Crocus" of commerce, with several varieties; _Scharojani_,

orange-yellow; _speciosus_, lilac, purple, with deeper veins, see Plate

33, fig. 122; and _zonatus_, rosy-lilac, veined purple.

All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, which may be detached

when the corms are lifted. Seeds take about three years to produce

flowering corms (see p. 34).

=DIERAMA= (=Sparaxis=) =pulcherrima.=--This is a charming South African

plant with fibrous-coated corms, and long narrow sword-like leaves. It

has beautiful funnel-shaped flowers, which droop from thread-like stalks

about September and October, a period when they are sometimes injured by

the bad weather. The blossoms, which are shown on Plate 31, fig. 112,

are usually crimson in colour, but there also exist white, pale-red, and

prettily-striped forms, all borne on stalks 3 to 6 feet high, and

beautiful for cutting purposes. _D. pendula_, with deeply veined lilac

flowers, is another species not so well known.

The plants cannot be considered hardy, except in the milder parts of the

kingdom. In less favoured spots they may be planted in spring in warm

sunny spots sheltered from cold winds, and if left in the ground in

winter should be protected from cold rains and frosts with litter,

bracken, lights, &c. A light sandy loam, with a little leaf-soil, will

suit the plants best, and they may be increased by offsets.

=ERYTHRONIUM= (_Dog's Tooth Violet_).--These pretty plants of the Lily

order have more or less oblong or cylindrical bulbs, sometimes with

creeping rhizomes, and leaves more or less marbled or blotched or

sometimes green. The 6-petalled blossoms are, more or less, drooping,

but are usually conspicuous above the foliage and render the plants very

attractive either in the rock-garden, flower-border, or grass-land. The

plants like a moist sandy loam and leaf-soil, which, however, must be

well drained so that the bulbs may not decay with the winter rains.

Offsets are the easiest means of increasing the stock, and are best

taken off after the flowers are over and the leaves have withered,

_i.e._, about midsummer.

PLATE 18. CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) ALLIUM ERDELII

(72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)

The Common Dog's Tooth Violet (_E. Dens-Canis_) is an old-world plant,

and has been in cultivation many years. It has blue-green leaves,

marbled with dull purple, and the flowers are of a soft rose or purple

hue, although there are various shades (as shown on Plate 13, fig. 54),

including a white one. There are now many other species and varieties in

cultivation--all natives of temperate North America, and well worthy of

a place in the garden. They all blossom from March to May, and vary in

height from 3 to 12 inches. The following are the best known at

present:--_Albidum_, white, tinged yellow, or wholly yellow in the

variety _bracteatum_; _americanum_, golden yellow, tinged purple;

_citrinum_, lemon yellow; _Dens-Canis_ (see Plate 13, figs. 54 and 55);

_giganteum_, white, suffused with orange or yellow; _grandiflorum_,

yellow; _Hartwegi_, creamy-white and orange; _Hendersoni_, rose to

purple with yellow centre; _Howelli_, yellow and orange; _Johnstoni_,

rosy-pink (see Plate 12, fig. 94); _montanum_, creamy-white;

_propullans_, rose-purple; _purpurascens_, pale yellow tinged purple, or

lilac in the variety _grandiflorum_; this species has sometimes about a

dozen flowers on a scape; and _revolutum_, pink to rosy-purple, or white

with a yellow centre in the variety _Bolanderi_ or _Smithi_.

=EUCOMIS punctata.=--This bold-looking plant is probably the best and

most ornamental member of the genus. It has very large bulbs and tufts

of gracefully spreading and recurved wavy leaves, bright shining green

above, and densely spotted with purple beneath. The creamy-white or

yellowish starry blossoms, with a conspicuous violet ovary in the

centre, appear from July to September, and are packed close together on

a stout purple spotted scape 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Other species are

_bicolor_, with unspotted leaves and greenish-yellow flowers; _nana_,

which grows only about 9 inches high, has brownish-green blossoms;

_undulata_, greenish-yellow ones; _regia_, white; and _pallidiflora_,

with leaves over 2 feet long, and 4 inches or more broad, has

greenish-white flowers.

They are all natives of South Africa, and may be grown in warm sheltered

spots in the milder parts of the country. They like a rich and

well-drained sandy loam, and if left undisturbed for a few years, will

probably require protection in bleak localities from winter rains and

frost. They may be increased by offsets. It takes four or five years to

secure flowering bulbs from seeds.

=FERRARIA undulata.=--A distinct looking Iridaceous plant with tunicated

bulbs, sword-like wavy leaves, and peculiar dull-purple flowers, each

with six wavy segments spotted with purple, and appearing in March and

April. This plant flourishes in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil,

and may be considered fairly hardy in the milder parts of the kingdom.

Increased by offsets.

=FRITILLARIA.=--There are fifty species or more belonging to this genus,

but many of them, although highly interesting, are so dull in colour or

small in blossom, that they are only likely to be met with in botanical

collections. The common Crown Imperial (_F. imperialis_), shown in Plate

16, figs. 65 and 66, with its sturdy stems, 2 to 3 feet high, bright

green wavy leaves, and bright yellow drooping blossoms, is probably the

best known; but there are many forms of it in which the flowers vary in

colour from yellow to orange and bright red. The Snake's Head (_F.

Meleagris_) is another well-known species to be seen growing naturally

in moist meadows in parts of England. Its beautiful white, rosy or

purple blossoms (see Plate 8, fig. 33) droop from the stalks, 1 to 1-1/2

feet high in April and May, and are beautifully chequered with deeper

coloured bands. For naturalising in the grass with Narcissi, Dog's Tooth

Violets, &c., this is a very valuable plant. _F. Moggridgei_, a dwarf

form of the purple, brown, and yellow _delphinensis_, is another good

garden plant shown on Plate 8, fig. 31. The following kinds may be used

for naturalising in the grass or for grouping in nooks of the

rock-garden:--_Fusco-lutea_, _aurea_, _citrina_, _lusitanica_, _lutea_,

_askabadensis_ (finely figured in "FLORA AND SYLVA,") _discolor_,

_pallidiflora_, _pudica_, _Thunbergi_, _Whittalli_, all with yellow or

greenish-yellow blossoms, and ranging from 6 to 12 inches high. To these

may be added _F. recurva_ (Plate 8, fig. 34), a Californian species,

about 1 foot high, and remarkable for its drooping bright orange-scarlet

blossoms, the interior of which is yellow blotched with purple. _F.

camtschatcensis_, the "Black Lily," has deep blackish-red flowers. It

flourishes in moist sandy loam and peat.

_F. Walujewi_, with narrow tendril-tipped leaves, has silver-grey

flowers suffused with purple brown, and spotted with red and white

within (see Plate 8, fig. 32). To these may be added _armena_, dark

purple; _Elwesi_, green and purple; _pyrenaica_, green and purple,

spotted; _persica_ or _libanotica_, chocolate, purple and green;

_latifolia_, purple, lilac, yellow, &c.

The Fritillarias have bulbs of various sizes, and many of them--notably

those of _F. imperialis_--emit a very strong and disagreeable odour.

They produce offsets freely in most cases, and in this way the stock may

be increased. The best time for lifting and transplanting the bulbs is

after the foliage has withered.

PLATE 19. ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) BRODIAEA

LAXA (76) BRODIAEA IXIOIDES (77)

=GAGEA lutea.=--This British plant, with small roundish bulbs, and long

narrow leaves, is called the "Yellow Star of Bethlehem" on account of

its yellow starry flowers, with a green central line, appearing from

March to May on stalks about 6 inches high. It grows in ordinary garden

soil and may be increased by offsets.

=GALANTHUS= (_Snowdrop_).--The common British Snowdrop (_G. nivalis_) is

an old time garden favourite, not only on account of the purity of its

blossoms--almost rivalling the whiteness of the snow--but because they

appear during the very dullest months of the year, often before

Christmas, and lasting till the Crocuses, early Narcissi, Chionodoxas,

Bulbocodiums, Leucojums, &c., come to keep them company. A few blooms

are shown on Plate 2, fig. 8, not because it was necessary to tell the

reader what a Snowdrop was like, but to record the general appearance of

other Snowdrops that are now to be met with in cultivation. The most

important of these are _Elwesi_, with its varieties _globosus_ and

_robustus_, all of which have large flowers; _Fosteri_ has been called

the "King of Snowdrops" on account of its fine leaves and flowers. Other

fine kinds are _Imperati_, _latifolius_, and _plicatus_, the last named

recognised by its long broad and plaited leaves. Indeed there are many

other varieties--including double-flowered ones--but it is doubtful if

the ordinary observer would see any great difference between them and

the best forms of the common Snowdrop. They all have roundish

bulbs--some larger than others, and offsets are freely produced from

them. They flourish in the border or rock-garden in rich sandy soil and

leaf-mould, but their natural dwelling place is in the grass, where they

should be planted in hundreds and thousands and left to take care of

themselves, as they are in many gardens in the kingdom.

=GALTONIA= (=Hyacinthus=) =candicans.=--A noble-looking South African

plant, with large roundish bulbs and strap-shaped leaves over 2 feet

long. The pure white sweet-scented blossoms (shown on Plate 20, fig. 78)

appear during the summer months, 20 or 30 in a raceme, drooping from

stout stalks about 4 feet high. =G. princeps= is somewhat similar but

not so attractive in appearance, as its white flowers are faintly tinged

with green. Both kinds flourish in good garden soil and should be

planted in bold clumps for effect in the flower border, and in warm

sunny spots, where they may remain undisturbed for several years, until

it is necessary to give them more space, or to detach the offsets for

increasing the stock.

=GLADIOLUS= (_Corn Flag_; _Sword Lily_).--There are several species of

Gladiolus rarely seen outside botanic gardens. The florists' varieties,

like _brenchleyensis_, _Colvillei_, _Childsi_, _gandavensis_,

_Lemoinei_, and _nanceianus_, are much more popular owing to the

brilliancy and beauty of their blossoms. _G. brenchleyensis_

(practically a form of _gandavensis_) is remarkable for its glowing

scarlet flowers; _G. Childsi_ (raised from _gandavensis_ and

_Saundersi_) attains a height of four or five feet, and has spikes of

bloom often 2 feet or more long. The blossoms are 6 to 9 inches across,

and possess many shades of purple, scarlet, crimson, salmon, white,

pink, yellow, often beautifully mottled and blotched in the throat

(Plate 28, fig. 105). _G. Colvillei_ (raised from _cardinalis_ and

_tristis_) is an early-flowering plant about 2 feet high, with crimson

purple and also pure white flowers--according to the variety. The form

known as "The Bride" is the best white (Plate 21, fig. 81). Other

early-flowering forms are shown in figs. 82 and 83. _G. gandavensis_

(raised from _cardinalis_ and _psittacinus_) forms a charming group as

various in colour as the _Childsi_ forms, the individual flowers being

variously striped and blotched with distinct colours. _G. Lemoinei_

(raised from _purpureo-auratus_ and _gandavensis_) is the origin of a

beautiful number of hybrids, distinguished by having a large

golden-yellow blotch on the lower segments, bordered with scarlet,

crimson, purple, maroon, &c. (Plate 28, fig. 104). The colours are as

numerous and as delicate as in the _Childsi_ and _gandavensis_ sections.

The _nanceianus_ hybrids are remarkably fine plants, and are only

comparable with those of the _Childsi_ group, although the blossoms are

not quite so large. The colours vary from purple, claret, violet,

carmine, orange, red, scarlet, violet, &c., and are all spotted in

various ways (see Plate 28, fig. 103).

The kinds of Gladioli just mentioned may be grown to perfection in a

well-drained loamy soil, which has been deeply dug and well manured the

autumn previous to planting. From the beginning to the end of March is

an excellent time to plant the corms or tubers, each one being inserted

in a hole made with a stout dibber, or in a drill about 4 or 5 inches

deep, and about a foot apart. Having covered the corms and made the soil

fairly firm, little more is needed beyond keeping weeds down, until the

flower spikes begin to show in July and August. Short stakes may then be

supplied so as to keep the trusses upright. To secure extra fine

blossoms the plants, when well-established, should be watered two or

three times a week with liquid cow-manure to which a little soot and

guano has been added. During hot dry summers especially, copious

waterings should be given.

PLATE 20. GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79)

BRODIAEA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)

When the flowers have faded, and the leaves begin to turn yellow, the

corms may be taken up and carefully stored in a dry, airy, frost-proof

place until the following March. New plants may be raised from the

offsets, and also the spawn or cloves to be found at the base of the new

corms. They should be detached and stored, and the following April may

be sown like seeds in drills about two inches deep. The larger corms may

also be carefully cut in two at planting time, the cut surfaces being

dipped in powdered charcoal, soot, or freshly-slaked lime.

Where space will permit, the following natural species of Gladioli may

also be grown:--_G. blandus_, 1 to 2 feet high, white, with red markings

and a yellow tube; _G. byzantinus_, 2 feet, red, shaded with violet or

purple; _G. dracocephalus_, 1 to 2-1/2 feet, soft yellow, striped and

spotted with purple; _G. floribundus_, 1 foot, has flowers varying from

white to flesh colour and deep red.

_G. oppositiflorus_ has white flowers, washed with rose or purple (Plate

23, fig. 87); _G. psittacinus_, 3 feet, rich scarlet, lined and spotted

with yellow; _G. purpureo-auratus_, 3 to 4 feet, sulphur yellow,

blotched with purple; and _G. Saundersi_, 2 to 3 feet, crimson or soft

scarlet, spotted with pink and white. As they are all natives of South

Africa they should be planted in warm sunny spots in March or April, and

lifted the following autumn when growth has ceased.

=HABRANTHUS pratensis.=--A pretty Chilian plant, with ovoid bulbs about

1-1/2 inches through, and narrow leaves 1 to 1-1/2 feet long. The

funnel-shaped, orange-red or scarlet blossoms appear in early summer on

stems 1 to 2 feet high. Rich sandy-loam and leaf-soil, and warm

sheltered spots are most suitable for this plant. In bleak localities

the bulbs must be protected in winter. Increased by offsets.

=HYACINTHUS= (_Hyacinth_).--The florists' Hyacinth, evolved from _H.

orientalis_, has been for generations a great garden favourite, and is

still amongst the most popular of bulbous plants for the decoration of

the out-door garden, or for growing in conservatories, or the

dwelling-house in more or less ornamental receptacles. There is a good

deal of difference in the size of Hyacinth bulbs, but the reader must

not imagine that the largest bulbs will throw up the best truss of

flowers. Indeed it is often the case that quite a small bulb

comparatively, will give a finer display than one much larger. Size,

therefore, is not the main point about Hyacinth bulbs. Weight or density

is the most important feature, and bulbs that are in any way soft or

flabby may be regarded as useless.

=Hyacinths in the Open Air.=--What are known as "Bedding Hyacinths," to

be had in various colours--red, rose, pink, white, blue, violet and

yellow--are generally grown out of doors. They should be planted in

October, or not later than November, 5 to 6 inches deep, and 6 to 8

inches apart, care being taken when planting round, oval, oblong, or

other shaped beds to keep the lines or curves equidistant so as to

secure uniformity in the results. The varieties should not be mixed when

formal beds are planted. In vacant spaces in the flower border, however,

mixed Hyacinths look very well. Although these Hyacinths will grow well

in ordinary good garden soil that has been deeply dug, and contains some

well-decayed manure, it may be said that a light sandy loam that has had

some old cow-manure incorporated with it some weeks previously is

regarded as the best. When the soil is naturally heavy it must be well

turned up, and have plenty of sand or grit mixed with it as well as old

manure. In such a soil, a further precaution may be taken to have a

handful of sand placed in the hole under each bulb to further improve

the drainage.

Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes made by covering the

surface of the beds with such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or

Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, and sometimes Narcissi

bulbs are planted alternately with the Hyacinths, the object in all

cases being to produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring.

When the plants are in bloom they require but little attention, except

perhaps a slender stick here and there to some flower-truss that has

been blown down by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As

soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems should be cut away,

leaving the still green leaves to assimilate food until they begin to

turn yellow. The yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken

up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy places until the

following September or October. As Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in

our fickle climate, it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting

formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in ordinary flower border

or shrubbery.

PLATE 21. EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)

=Hyacinths in Glasses, &c.=--Ornamental bowls, glasses, vases, &c., of

various designs afford an easy and interesting means for growing

Hyacinths in the dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with

Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they allow the bulbs to

touch the water, or they place them in too high a temperature to begin

with. The bulbs should not actually touch the water, the base being

little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They should then be

stood in a dark place with a temperature of about 40 deg. to 45 deg. F., until

roots have developed into the water. The plants may then be exposed to

more light, after which all that is necessary is to change the water

occasionally, about once a week, so that the roots may secure a fresh

supply of oxygen. The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when

grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature Hyacinths" are suitable

for growing in bowls, vases, &c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in

Jadoo fibre, or even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally may

be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead of in water, the

only point to bear in mind being to get the roots started in a cool

place before the flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.

=Hyacinths in Pots.=--For greenhouse and conservatory decoration

Hyacinths are most useful. One large bulb or three smaller ones may be

placed in a 5-inch pot in light sandy soil, the top of the bulbs being

well above the surface. The pots should be placed in the open air and

covered with fine ashes or coco-nut fibre. Roots soon develop, after

which the bulbs may be brought in as required, and can be had in blossom

long before those in the open ground begin to appear. In warm

greenhouses the graceful Roman and Italian Hyacinths may be flowered in

the same way.

For a selection of Hyacinths of various colours the reader will find it

best to consult a good bulb catalogue or a nurseryman. Plate 11 shows a

few varieties, but the size of the page renders it impossible to show

them in all their natural grandeur.

Besides the florist's Hyacinths there are one or two natural species

that are worth growing in the rockery, flower border, or in the grass.

These are the Spanish Hyacinth (_H. amethystinus_), with bright blue

drooping blossoms, or white in the variety _albus_, in May and June

(see Plate 7, fig. 30). The other is _H. azureus_, which very much

resembles one of the Muscaris, and sends up its sky-blue drooping

flowers as early as February (see Plate 2, fig. 10).

Hyacinths may be increased by offsets. These may be stored in dry sand

until planting time in the autumn, when they should be placed in beds by

themselves, and will reach the flowering stage, with care, in two or

three seasons. Full-sized bulbs are induced to develop bulblets by

cutting them cross-wise, about half-way through from the base, or

scooping the bottom out into a hollow. The bulbs are placed to dry after

cutting, and by and bye the bulblets appear. They may be detached and

planted like the offsets.

=IRIS= (_Flag_).--As the various kinds of Irises, known as

"rhizomatous," "bearded," "beardless," and "oncocyclus or cushion," have

already been dealt with in "A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO GARDEN PLANTS," and in

the companion volume to this, "BEAUTIFUL GARDEN FLOWERS," it is only

necessary here to refer to the "Bulbous" Irises, as coming appropriately

within the scope of this work. The best-known examples of Bulbous, or

Xiphion Irises, as they are sometimes called, are the Spanish Iris (_I.

Xiphium_) and the English Iris (_I. xiphioides_). Varieties of the

last-named are shown on Plate 14, while forms of the Spanish Iris will

be found in "BEAUTIFUL GARDEN FLOWERS," Plate 20, and also in this work,

Plate 15. Besides these well-known examples of Bulbous Irises, there are

many others now well-known. They are, however, much smaller in stature

as a rule, more fragile, so utterly distinct in appearance from the

ordinary Flag Irises, and so curiously and beautifully coloured, that

many amateurs liken them to orchids, although, perhaps, they can

scarcely be termed "Poor Men's" Orchids like their commoner relatives.

On Plate 3, five species of charming and early flowering Bulbous Irises

are shown, and a glance will show that no description could do real

justice to the charming beauty of the blossoms.

Beautiful Bulbous Plants for the Open Air · 第 4 / 8 段