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[Illustration: ARMSTRONG GUN FROM FORT FISHER.]
GUIDE
TO
WEST POINT,
AND THE
U.S. MILITARY ACADEMY.
WITH
MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS.
NEW YORK:
D. VAN NOSTRAND, 192 BROADWAY.
1867.
GUIDE TO WEST POINT.
Fifty-one miles above New York, on the west bank of the Hudson river,
in the midst of scenery of the most picturesque and impressive
character, and on a bold shelving plateau, formed by the crossing of a
range of the Alleghany Mountains, which here assume almost Alpine
proportions, is a name dear to every lover of his country--a name
replete with memories of the struggle for Independence, and clustering
with historic associations.
WEST POINT, the property of the United States by purchase, possesses a
primary interest from its military importance during the period of the
American Revolution, and a secondary one from its being the seat of
the National Military Academy. The creative hand of natural
beauty--the romance of war--the distinguished career of those who
have gone forth from this locality in the defense of American Liberty,
and the spectacle presented by those preparing for future public
usefulness, have united to inspire the visitor with emotions unlike
those excited at any place of popular resort within the limits of the
United States.
Ninety years ago, when West Point possessed no attraction beyond that
presented by similar adjoining wild and uncultivated woodland tracts
in the Highlands, a band of Commissioners, appointed by the Provincial
Congress of the Colony of New York, instituted an undertaking which
first imparted a public interest to this favored spot. The war for
American Independence was in progress, and then, as now, the Hudson
river afforded the principal channel of communication between the
theatre of the strife and the country lying northward to Canada and
the west.
Nor was its importance thus limited. As a strategic line, separating
the New England Colonies from the more productive region south-west
of them, the control of the Hudson became, early in the war, one of
the principal objects toward which the attention of the military
authorities directing the contending parties was attracted.
Between abrupt and lofty mountains above West Point, the gorge through
which the river flows, yet bearing its ancient name of Wey Gat, or
Wind Gate, is partially obstructed at its lower entrance, by a long
and narrow island, once named Martelaer's Rock, but now known as
Constitution Island. In pursuance of their instructions, made with
singular lack of judgment, upon this island the Commissioners landed,
and under the direction of an engineer, appointed by the Colony, a
work named Fort Constitution was commenced in August, 1775, and
completed at a heavy expense, designed to defend, with a powerful
armament of artillery, the approach up the river. Thus unfortunately
located, and easily destroyed by an overlooking battery at West Point,
or by a land approach on the east side of the river, the fort was
abandoned and fired on the first appearance of a British force, on
the 8th of October, 1777, immediately following the assault and
capture by Sir Henry Clinton, of Forts Montgomery and Clinton, four
miles below.
Notwithstanding this early recognition of the necessity for
obstructing and controling the Hudson, no attempt was made to occupy
West Point until after the urgent recommendations of Washington,
Governor Clinton and Lord Stirling--the latter of whom had thoroughly
examined and reported upon the immediate necessity for defending this
most important point.
Operations were commenced by a brigade of Continental troops, under
the command of General Parsons, on January 20, 1778, and before June
in the same year, the work yet preserved, was thrown up on the
north-east angle of the plateau, and named FORT ARNOLD. To cover the
work, early in April, a body of Massachusetts troops, under Colonel
Rufus Putnam, began to erect a fort constructed of earth and logs, on
Mount Independence, overlooking the plain, which was named, in honor
of their commander, FORT PUTNAM. The old fort yet in existence,
bearing the same name, is a relic built, for the most part, in 1794.
Forts Webb and Wyllis, lying to the south and named after regimental
commanders, were commenced at the same time with Fort Putnam, and were
designed to protect West Point from an approach southward by land. All
these operations were conducted under the direction of Major-General
McDougall, commanding in the Highlands; and in 1779, they were further
strengthened and improved, while additional works were thrown up known
as redoubts Nos. 1, 2 and 3, covering the Eagle Valley road to the
west; redoubt No. 4, on Rocky Hill, in rear of Fort Putnam, and
redoubts Nos. 5, 6 and 7, on Constitution Island, by Kosciuszko as the
engineer, acting under the general direction of Washington, whose
headquarters were established at West Point during a portion of the
same year.
The works known as the North and South redoubts, in rear of Garrison's
Station, were erected to defend the land approach on the east side of
the river.
An interesting letter and accompanying map, from Kosciuszko, relating
to these works, is here published for the first time:
"WEST POINT, 25TH APRIL, 1779.
"SIR: I send you a ruff map of West Point, with indication as
you desire from me, about the Public Buildings, and the Works.
"The Carpenters Compliend about the provision, that he have not
enof; he beg your honor to allow them more bred.
a House full of Ammunition.
b The Barracks.
c The Carpenter's House.
d The Commissary House.
e For the Fourage.
f The Huts.
g The Read House.
h Baker's House.
i Provision House.
k Small Commissary House.
l Smock House.
m The Barracks.
n The Steble,
o Of the Artellery Officer's House
p Artellery Barracks.
q Greaton's Battery.
r Chain Battery begun last summer.
s Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer.
t Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer.
u Guard House.
w Guard House not covered.
x Point of (Projected) Block House with Bumprove for
fivety men.
y Swamps.
Your Most Humble Servant
(Signed) THAD KOSCIUSZKO
Col.
The Honorable
Major General MCDOUGALL,
Peekskill."
[Illustration: MAP OF WEST POINT]
While these land defenses were planned and situated to aid in
controling the passage of the Hudson, a formidable obstruction was
made by stretching across the river at its narrowest point, a boom of
huge short logs, united at the ends by chains so as to resemble a rope
ladder, and a few yards higher up, an immense chain was buoyed up on
logs, extending across from one shore to the other. This chain was
made by Noble, Townsend & Company, at the Stirling Iron Works, yet in
operation near the Sloatsburg Station, on the Erie Railroad, about
twenty-five miles from West Point. It was carried in pieces to New
Windsor on wagons, put together there, and floated down the river into
its position, in April, 1778. A portion of the chain is preserved, and
is to be seen lying in a grove on the north side of the Plain. The
links are made of two-inch bar iron, and each weighs about 120 pounds.
The entire chain weighed 186 tons.
Thus it will be seen, from its natural advantages, its defenses, and
its obstructions, West Point was the key to the passage of the
Hudson, and as matters stood in 1780, it was in fact an American
Gibraltar. The British, then in possession of the city of New York,
and thus prevented from the employment of vessels to maintain
communication with the Northern Provinces, and unable to penetrate the
country amid the desolate wildernesses which covered its face, found
themselves restricted to surprising detached points, or raids, from
which the patriots speedily recovered, and no northern campaign, save
that of Burgoyne, which ended in defeat and surrender, was attempted,
chiefly from their inability to control the passage of the Hudson.
The winter of 1779 and 1780 was one of unexampled severity for the
patriot army in the North, while in the South the surrender of
Charleston and the disaster at Camden, had inspired universal gloom. A
cloud of witnesses of the best authority bear testimony that at that
period the majority of the American people manifested a willingness
to cease further resistance, and return to their allegiance under the
British King.
In the midst of these forebodings there burst upon the nation the
knowledge of a plot so comprehensive and momentous in all the
circumstances attending it, and in the results designed to be
accomplished, that even in its failure it struck terror and dismay to
the hearts of all true lovers of American independence. This mighty
plot comprehended not only the surrender of West Point, with all its
garrison and armament, but had also for its object the betrayal of
Washington and his staff into the hands of Sir Henry Clinton, the
British Commander of the King's forces in America.
Major General BENEDICT ARNOLD, an officer of the patriot army, who had
risen from the grade of Captain for gallant and perilous services in
the contest, sought and received an assignment to command at West
Point and its dependencies in August, 1780. Embittered by a few real,
and many imaginary grievances, this officer had long but secretly
become disaffected towards the American cause. After evidence has
established the fact, that he deliberately bargained with the British
Commander to become a traitor to the land of his birth--to sell for a
stipulated price the trust confided to him, and to betray his command
into the hands of the enemy. To accomplish this object he entered into
negotiations secretly with Sir Henry Clinton, by which it was agreed
that he should make such a disposition of his forces as would enable
the British Commander effectually to surprise West Point.
John Anderson and Colonel Beverly Robinson were the agents on the part
of the British, and with them Arnold opened "a regular channel of
communication." The correspondence becoming protracted, a personal
interview was demanded by Arnold to bring the matter to a final
settlement, at which he was to furnish plans of West Point, and
returns of its armament and garrison. With this object in view, John
Anderson left New York on horseback, and proceeded up the river with
the intention of holding the proposed interview on board the British
sloop-of-war "Vulture," anchored off Teller's, now called Croton
Point. Difficulties having been thrown in the way of this arrangement,
Anderson was induced to leave the vessel and go ashore at midnight, in
a boat sent by Arnold, and meet the latter on the west bank of the
Hudson, a little below the village of Haverstraw. He had been directed
by Sir Henry Clinton not to enter the American lines, and not to
assume any disguise, but under a pressure of circumstances, he did
both, and thus became exposed to the character of a spy, violating the
laws of war. The meeting between Anderson and Arnold, while discussing
their infamous plans, was prolonged until the dawn of day, when the
state of the tide and the risk of being discovered by the American
pickets, so alarmed the boatmen, that neither the threats nor
entreaties of the two principals could induce them to return to the
"Vulture."
In the hope of making a successful return to the vessel on the next
night, both parties sought refuge in the house of a noted Tory, living
in Haverstraw, named Joshua Hett Smith. They had scarcely found
themselves safe within the house, when an event occurred which
seriously threatened the whole object of the interview. The proximity
of the "Vulture" to the American lines was such, that a fire was
opened upon her by a battery on shore, and she was compelled to drop
down the river, thus preventing Anderson from returning to New York by
that opportunity. In the afternoon Arnold returned in his barge to his
headquarters, while Anderson, filled with thoughts of the great
advantage the arrangement must confer upon his King and country, and
with the glory and promotion awaiting himself, could not avoid
reflecting upon the great personal danger to which he was exposed,
surrounded by enemies, and having concealed about his person the
proofs of his character as a spy. He had been furnished by Arnold with
two passports, one to return by water in case that method again became
practicable, and the other by a land route on the east side of the
river, authorized him "to go to the lines at White Plains, or lower if
he thought proper, being on public business." Choosing the latter
mode, in the evening Anderson, accompanied by Smith, crossed the
Hudson at Stony Point, and commenced his hazardous journey.
The party proceeded with little or no interruption, and once beyond
the sight of patroling parties, Anderson's naturally buoyant spirit
resumed its wonted cheerfulness, and he astonished his companion by
the sudden change from taciturn despondency to unusual hilarity.
Poetry, art and literature, formed alternate themes of discourse, and
already he seemed to behold the reduction of the Colonies and the end
of the war--a consummation to which his own sagacity and personal
daring would so largely have contributed. Near Pine's Bridge, a few
miles above Tarrytown, Smith parted from him to return to Fishkill,
while Anderson pursued his way onward, until three armed militia-men,
lying in wait for suspicious men and cattle going to New York, brought
him to a stand. Under the impression that they were adherents of the
British from their replies to his inquiries, he announced himself a
British officer, and exhibited his passport, but it was too late, the
fatal admission was made. The men took him into the bushes and
searched him, when six papers, mostly in Arnold's handwriting, were
found inside of his stockings and beneath his feet, filled with
details of the state of the forces, ordnance, and defenses at West
Point. Patriotically disdaining the proffered bribe of a purse of gold
and permanent support and promotion on condition of suffering him to
proceed, the captors conveyed him to Colonel Jameson, who commanded
the nearest American outpost at North Castle. This officer,
unaccountably bewildered, resolved to dispatch the captive to Arnold,
to whose command he belonged, in spite of the damning proof of the
former's treachery. Major Tallmadge, the second officer in command at
the post, was absent when Anderson was brought in, and did not return
until evening. When Jameson told him what had occurred, he was filled
with amazement, and openly declared that Arnold was a traitor,
offering to take upon himself the responsibility of acting on that
conviction. To this Jameson would not listen, but he finally yielded
to the entreaties of Tallmadge to recall Anderson, while he persisted
in sending a note to Arnold, informing him of the suspicious arrest of
the prisoner. The six papers he had already dispatched to be delivered
to Washington. The messenger sent to recall Anderson overtook the
party and returned with them to North Castle. Conscious that his fate
was sealed, exposure inevitable, and proofs of his own and Arnold's
crime more than ample, Anderson paced up and down the apartment with
measured step, pondering on the gloomy prospect which awaited him,
while Tallmadge sat watching him, more and more convinced that the
indifferently dressed prisoner before him had been bred to the
profession of arms. On the next morning the captive wrote a letter to
Washington, describing the manner in which he came within the American
lines, and announced himself to be Major JOHN ANDRE, the
Adjutant-General of the British army.
The state of inactivity of the patriot forces had impelled Count
Rochambeau, the Commander of the Allied French army, to request an
interview with Washington at Hartford, Conn. Two days before the
conference between Arnold and Andre, Washington wrote Arnold to meet
him at Peekskill with a guard of fifty men, and forage for forty
horses. Arnold came down from West Point in his barge, and crossed
over with Washington at King's Ferry, plying between Verplank's and
Stony Point. The "Vulture" was then anchored off in full view, and
Washington observed her through a telescope for a long time,
conversing with his staff in a low tone. Arnold witnessed the scene
with more than ordinary feelings of alarm, and was startled by a
playful remark of Lafayette, who said, "General, as you have secret
correspondence with the enemy, you must tell us what has become of
Guichen." Thrown off his guard, Arnold sharply demanded what the
Marquis alluded to, but almost immediately the boat arrived at the
landing, and the retort passed unnoticed. The night was passed at
Peekskill, and when next morning Washington proceeded on his way,
Arnold returned to his headquarters at the Robinson House, opposite
West Point. In returning, after the meeting with Rochambeau,
Washington pursued the upper route to the Hudson, arriving at
Fishkill, so as to enable him to visit West Point before returning to
his camp in New Jersey. This change in his route caused him to miss
the papers sent after him by Jameson, which had been found on the
person of Andre, and during his brief visit the plot had matured,
ripened, and Andre had been captured.
Two days after the latter occurrence, Washington left Fishkill and
pushed on down to the Robinson House, only some ten miles distant,
intending to breakfast with Arnold. On arriving opposite West Point,
instead of continuing on to Arnold's quarters, he rode toward the
North and South redoubts. "General," said Lafayette, "you are going in
the wrong direction, and you know Mrs. Arnold is waiting breakfast for
us." "Ah!" said Washington, "you young men are all in love with Mrs.
Arnold, and wish to get where she is as soon as possible; go, and take
your breakfast with her, and tell her not to wait for me; I must first
examine the redoubts on this side of the river."
As most of the staff officers proposed to accompany him, only two went
forward to tell the Arnolds not to wait, and finding breakfast ready,
they sat down with the family at the table. During the repast a note
was brought to Arnold, who opened it and read it; the note was from
Jameson, as before mentioned, and announced the capture of Anderson,
conveying, of course, to Arnold, the failure of the whole conspiracy.
Betraying but slight outward emotion, although his life was in
imminent peril, he merely remarked that his presence was required
across the river at West Point, and with a slight apology, he left the
room followed by his wife. In the privacy of their own chamber he told
her they must part--possibly forever--and that his life depended on
his reaching the British lines; then pressing a kiss upon his sleeping
infant boy,[A] he passed down stairs, mounted a horse, and dashed down
a narrow rocky path leading to the landing, where his barge was lying,
just on the south side of the point through which the Hudson River
Railroad now cuts its way. Pretending that he was going with a flag of
truce, he excited the boatmen to powerful efforts by promised
rewards, and the boat sped through the water, carrying the panting
renegade to the "Vulture" below, passing Verplank's Point batteries
under cover of a white handkerchief raised upon a stick.
Meanwhile, Washington having completed his inspection, arrived at the
Robinson House, where he was informed that Arnold had been called
across the river. After a hasty breakfast, he concluded not to await
Arnold's return, but to follow him to West Point. As the barge swept
over the water, amid the majestic scenery of the Hudson, Washington
remarked, "Well, gentlemen, I am glad General Arnold has gone before
us, for we shall now receive a salute, and the roaring of the guns
will have a fine effect among these mountains." But no salute boomed
upon their expectant ears, and no preparations were visible for
tendering one. As the boat drew near the shore, an officer was seen
coming down the hill, who proved to be Colonel Lamb, the temporary
commander. Astounded at seeing the Commander-in-Chief, he commenced
an apology, which was interrupted by Washington. "How is this, sir, is
not General Arnold here?" "No, sir," replied the Colonel, "he has not
been here these two days, nor have I heard from him in that time."
"This is extraordinary," replied Washington, "he left word that he had
crossed over here; however, the object of our visit must not be
defeated, and since we are here we will look around and see in what
state things are with you." He then ascended to Fort Putnam, examined
it and the various redoubts, and returned to Arnold's house, where
Hamilton gave him the dispatch, which had arrived during his absence
from Jameson, containing the papers found on Andre, and the letter
from the latter to himself. The treason of Arnold was now fully
exposed, but as some hours had elapsed he was already beyond pursuit.
Calling in Generals Knox and Lafayette, Washington explained what had
occurred, showing the proofs of the treachery, and, pathetically
appealing to them, he exclaimed, "Whom can we trust now?"
Standing on a mine which might explode at any instant, he was
outwardly as calm as ever; he even sought Mrs. Arnold, and kindly
attempted to soothe her frenzied excitement which found vent in
alternate wailings and reproaches that would have pierced
insensibility itself. Although Washington seemed unchanged, he was
fully alive to his danger. He rapidly wrote his commands, and hastily
dispatched couriers in every direction to arouse the camps, till at
length, having done all in his power to avert the threatened evil, he
retired to rest late at night, fully expecting to be aroused before
daylight by the roar of British artillery.
We now know the happy result, and that, under the providence of God,
much of it was due to the promptitude and foresight of Washington. We
now see the momentous consequences which would have followed the
consummation of Arnold's baseness; how, and by what a singular change
of events, Washington's visit was delayed, and Arnold's escape
effected, while even now, we recoil as we learn how a single
expression dropped by Andre, prevented the springing of a mine which
would have inevitably insured a failure to achieve our independence,
and have left us colonial dependents upon the British Government.
Andre was conveyed to the Robinson House, and thence to West Point,
from which place he was removed to the village of Tappan, opposite
Irvington, on the Hudson River Railroad, where a Board of General
Officers, presided over by Major General Greene, was assembled to
inquire into the facts of his case, and report their opinion. The
Board found him acting in the character of a spy, and were of the
opinion that, agreeably to the laws and usages of war, he ought to
suffer death. In spite of every possible exertion of Sir Henry
Clinton, the universal sympathy of the American officers, and the
grief of Washington, whose heart was wrung with anguish when he gave
the death-warrant, Andre was executed at Tappan, on the 2d of
October, 1780, and died, in truth, "lamented even by his foes."
The miserable and unhappy career of Arnold need not be pursued.
Rewarded by the British Government with a Brigadier-General's
commission and a grant of L10,000, he died in London in 1801.[B]
[Illustration: CONSTITUTION ISLAND]
To the visitor at West Point, the objective spot of the stirring
scenes described, each wooded height and rocky bluff recalls the times
when our fathers, regardless of personal hardship, suffering and
death, labored to secure the priceless boon of freedom.
"There's not a verdant blade, nor mountain hoary,
But treasures up the memories of freedom's story."
One hundred and fifty-seven feet above the river, on a plateau,
embracing about fifty acres of level ground, stands the UNITED STATES
MILITARY ACADEMY, established by an Act of Congress in 1802. The
approach to this plateau from the steam-ferry landing, is up a
carriage road, excavated in the almost perpendicular rocky bank,
conveying the visitor past the Riding-hall, the Cavalry stables, and
the Library building, to the crest of the plain, where the natural
beauty of the latter, and its wonderful adaptation for locating a
great military educational institution, first excites admiration. The
plateau, which affords ample space for all military evolutions
appertaining to artillery, infantry, and cavalry, is bounded on the
west by lofty and rugged hills, at the base of which are situated the
various Academic buildings, the Cadet Barracks, and the residences of
the officers and professors.
Proceeding on to the West Point Hotel, an old fort is seen on the
north-east angle of the plain, known as FORT ARNOLD, until the treason
of the apostate became exposed, when the name, thenceforth unknown in
American history, was changed to FORT CLINTON. From the Hotel,
situated on the north side of the plain, the lake-like river view is
unobstructed for nearly ten miles, and presents in its constantly
varying aspect of sunlight and shadow on the rugged mountain sides, in
its periods of storm and repose on the water, and in its ever changing
variety of steamers and river craft, a scene which for boldness and
beauty stands unrivalled even in America, and is elsewhere unknown
throughout the world. The pencil of the artist, the skill of the
photographer, and the depths of language, have striven to portray the
exceeding loveliness of the vista presented from this spot, while
tourists fresh from the Alpine beauties of Switzerland and the Rhine,
from Italy, Scotland and Wales, and from the overland wilds of the
Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, alike render homage to the
glorious landscape here spread before them.
Immediately to the north, and almost at the feet of the spectator,
lies Constitution Island, with the exposed ruins of old Fort
Constitution near the water's edge, and a little below which the end
of the great chain was attached; while beyond may be seen the forge
and furnace stacks of the Foundry, and the spires and dwellings in the
village of Cold Spring. To the right, and farther up, Bull Hill and
Breakneck Mountains, rise respectively 1,580 and 1,187 feet, the
latter bearing Pollopel's Island, nearly opposite, while the city of
Newburg, with the Shawangunk Mountain range for a background, fades
away almost imperceptibly in the distance. On the left, the Crow Nest
towers 1,428 feet above the water, with Washington's Valley nestling
between it and the Cemetery. "Moore's House," from which the orders of
Washington emanated in 1779, was situated in the valley bearing his
name.
Leaving the Hotel by a pathway to the west, the visitor is conducted
to the siege battery of rifled guns, exhibiting the form and structure
of a field work, and from thence to a grove of elms, where a variety
of trophy guns are to be seen, taken during the Revolution, in the war
of 1812, in Mexico, and in the late rebellion. A portion of the great
chain surrounds the beautiful gun "Le Monarque," presented by Congress
to Lafayette, and one or two mortars captured by General Wayne at
Stony Point. Beside the antique mortars and guns from Mexico,
inscribed with the names of the places from which they came, there are
two English rifled Blakely guns, from Fort Pulaski, two carronades, or
ship's pivot guns, from Hilton Head, one 8-inch rifled Blakely, from
Fort Morgan, all captured from the rebels; and the fragments of Gen.
Gilmore's famous 30-pound Parrott gun, from Morris Island, which
hurled 4,606 projectiles at Charleston before it assumed its present
condition. These trophies, scarred and bruised by shot, and many other
large guns made for experimental purposes, cannot fail to afford an
interesting subject for contemplation. The large granite ball was
brought by Gen. Delafield from the Crimea, where it is said such
projectiles were thrown from mortars by the Russians, to crush the
decks of the blockading fleet. The spot is further interesting from
its having been dedicated as the site of the proposed Battle Monument,
designed to be erected by subscription among the surviving officers
and soldiers, to the memory of the officers of the regular army who
fell during the rebellion.
A little to the westward, a walled enclosure, embracing the Ordnance
Laboratory, is situated, and there may be seen a great variety of
trophy guns from Cedar Creek and from Vicksburg, among which is the
famous "Whistling Dick," an English rifled breech-loading Whitworth
gun, captured on Morris Island, and the formidable Armstrong gun,
captured at Fort Fisher, off Wilmington. Here, also, may be seen the
gun from Elder's Battery, which fired the last shot previous to the
surrender of Lee's Army. These, and a great variety of torpedoes,
shot, shells and other Rebel implements of warfare, will well repay
the visitor by the variety of design they exhibit. Pursuing the road
down the hill, to the North wharf, the Sea-coast battery, with its
armament of rifled monsters, consisting of 30-pound, 100, 200, and
300-pound Parrots, the 15-inch gun, and the 13-inch mortar, all
capable of hurling projectiles as far as Pollopel's Island, or beyond,
arrests the attention of the observer, and furnishes tangible
evidences of the triumphant progress of manufacturing skill in weapons
of war.
Returning by the road to the crest of the Plain, and proceeding west,
a road to the left leads up the hill to Fort Putnam. The old fort,
long neglected, and subject to the assaults of wintry blasts and
beating storms, rises high above the Plain, and there, in grim
majesty, it patiently awaits the silent march of disintegration and
general decay. Approached in the mellow light of an evening sunset,
when a single pencil of rays lingers and illuminates the crests of the
mountains in the east, and a few scattered clouds, tinged with
scarlet, gold and silver tints, fading and blending in perfect harmony
with the deep blue of the firmament, indicate the close of the day; a
single drum breaks upon the solemn stillness around, and directly
after, a full chorus of music from the Band on the Plain below,
proclaims the arrival of the hour for evening parade. Immediately echo
takes up the strain, and repeats them in tones softer and sweeter, and
fainter, until mountain, river and plain, all resound with notes of
exquisite melody. Then the pulse quickens even in those habitually
insensible to the beautiful spectacle here unfolded, and the visitor
seems to breathe a new existence in an ideal world, until the
reverberations of the evening gun announce the passage of another day,
and the nearer approach of that period when the mighty Angel shall
proclaim that "time was, but time shall be no more."
Were the same scene to be presented daily from this spot for all time,
it would never cease to be a delight to make a pilgrimage to the
glorious old Fort, while the vivid memories of its former patriot
occupants, and their labors are treasured up and remembered. But a
constant change is going on, and the same object presents itself to
the eye in many different aspects. The beautiful river, from small
beginnings, flowing down shelving rocks and flowering banks, is
swollen in mighty grandeur until it bursts asunder the mountain
barriers, and sweeps along, bearing on its broad bosom the wealth of
two hemispheres, to lose itself in the limitless ocean, and become a
part of the eternity of waters. The never-ceasing progress of the
seasons, beginning with the first born bud of Spring, and so
proceeding through each varying phase, to the period when the
snow-capped mountains and the ice-bound river are ready to expose anew
their surfaces to the reviving and gladdening warmth of showery April.
The very rising and setting of the sun; the clear, blue sky, speckled
with snowy fleece; the hurry and rush of the mountain storm through
the gorge, unite to keep up an ever-changing panorama of all that is
lovely and grand in nature.
Prominent among the many objects of interest which claim the attention
of the observer from this point, may be seen Redoubt No. 4, on Rocky
Hill, immediately in rear of the fort; the ruined parapets of Forts
Wyllis and Webb lying southward, each enveloped in a cluster of
cedars; and to the east, on the opposite side of the river, the North
and South redoubts on the hill, in rear of Garrisons, environed by
similar groups of the same beautiful vine-clad evergreen. The entire
vicinity, rising as it does abruptly from the river to the terrace
above, with wooded uplands, and bright green slopes beyond, is adorned
with sumptuous country seats, gleaming through the tufts of foliage
that surround them, and the lordly Hudson, with its furrowing keels
and snowy sails, all unite to present a landscape, the beauty of which
the pencil of the artist has vainly striven to portray.
The buildings appropriated to the occupation and education of the
Cadets, are not without attractive interest to the visitor. The
CADETS' BARRACK, from its magnitude, symmetrical proportions,
durability, and castellated structure, seldom fails to elicit
commendation from all lovers of architecture who are drawn to its
vicinity. The building contains eight divisions, of which two are
assigned to each of the four companies of Cadets. Two occupants only
are found in a room, each uniformly furnished with an iron bedstead,
an iron table, chair, books, and wearing apparel; all other furniture
being carefully excluded as unnecessary or unworthy of the student
soldier. Warmed by furnaces, lighted by gas, with daily access to
bath-rooms, and invigorated by their military exercises, the Cadets
present an appearance of health and contentment seldom seen in other
collegiate institutions.
THE ACADEMIC BUILDING contains, on the first floor, a gymnasium, with
bowling-alleys, an apartment for fencing and sword exercise, and the
Chemical laboratory. The second floor contains recitation rooms, and
the models and collections pertaining to the departments of
Engineering and Mineralogy and Geology. Besides the models of bridges,
buildings, engines, and arches, illustrative of the progress of civil
engineering, others relating to field works, fortifications, their
system of attack and defense, and the models of Fort Wagner, before
Charleston, and San Juan d'Ulloa, off Vera Cruz, will claim attention.
The third floor is occupied by recitation and lecture rooms, the
Picture gallery, Drawing Academy, and the Museum of ordnance and
trophies. The Picture gallery contains specimens selected from the
productions of the most proficient Cadets in the classes which have
gone forth since 1838, and among them the names of many prominent army
officers will be recognized. Regarded as an evidence of skill and
cultivated taste, on the part of those who were first made aware of
their power to acquire the art of sketching and coloring after
entering the Military Academy, and as the result of a few months'
instruction, no one can view this collection without experiencing the
liveliest feelings of satisfaction and pleasure.
The MUSEUM OF ORDNANCE AND TROPHIES exhibits all the various
progressive stages in the manufacture of swords, muskets, cartridges,
powder, and shot; models of field and siege guns, and the anatomical
structure of horses for instruction in the department of cavalry. The
collection of ancient and experimental weapons; of Rebel torpedoes,
and Rebel shot from many battle-fields; of flag-staffs and flags from
Mexico; Indian trophies and curious projectiles, and the numerous
flags borne by the regular army in the last war with England, in the
Florida war, in Mexico, and in the Rebellion, with their inscriptions,
excites a degree of interest which cannot be overcome by a momentary
glance.
The colors of the FOURTH REGIMENT OF U.S. INFANTRY bear the following
historical inscriptions:
The first Flag Carried 1794.
Retained at Reorganization 1808.
Tippecanoe 1811.
IN THE FLORIDA WAR.
Gaines's Pen 1836.
Thlonalosassa 1836.
Okeechobee 1837.
IN THE MEXICAN WAR.
Palo Alto 1846.
Resaca de la Palma 1846.
Monterey 1816.
Vera Cruz 1847.
Churubusco 1847.
Molino del Rey 1847.
Chapultepec 1847.
City of Mexico 1847.
IN THE REBELLION.
Yorktown 1862.
Gaines's Mill 1862.
Malvern Hill 1862.
Bull Run No. 2 1862.
Antietam 1862.
Fredericksburg 1862.
Chancellorsville 1863.
Gettysburg 1863.
Wapping Heights 1863.
Wilderness 1864.
Spottsylvania 1864.
North Anna River 1864.
Po-Potmail Creek 1864.
Coal Harbor 1864.
Petersburg 1864.
Lee's Surrender 1865.
The colors of some other regiments and batteries bear even a greater
number of inscriptions, but none date as far back in the past.
A pedestal and shell, brought from South Carolina, is inscribed on
its four sides by Rebel and Union hands, as follows:
FIRST FACE.
Fifteen Inch Hollow Shot, fired by the
Abolition Fleet of Iron Clads, at Fort Sumter,
April 7, 1863.
SECOND FACE.
Presented to the Citadel Academy,
By General G.T. Beauregard,
Charleston, S.C., April 27, 1863.
THIRD FACE.
Taken at Columbia, S.C., Feb. 17, 1865,
By the troops of the United States, under
Major-General W.T. Sherman.
FOURTH FACE.
Presented to the U.S. Military Academy,
By Major-General Wm. B. Hazen,
April 1, 1865.
The centre of the room is occupied by a model of the Silver Mine of
Valenciana, in Mexico, purchased in the City of Mexico in 1847, by
subscription among the officers of the army, whose names are affixed.
The upper surface represents the operatives, made of silver amalgam,
practising their several divisions of labor, while the sides exhibit
the galleries of the mine, with the miners at work. The case contains,
besides, many mineral specimens, and models of Aztec idols. The whole
is surmounted by an eagle and a portion of drapery taken from over the
Vice-President's Chair in the Mexican Senate Chamber.
In the CHAPEL, east of the Academic building, may be seen a fine
picture over the chancel, by Professor Weir, typical of Mars and
Minerva. On the west side, the walls present memorial tablets of the
general officers of the Revolution, and the guns presented by Congress
to Major-General Greene, implanted beside a niche of trophy colors
taken from English and Hessian regiments. On the east side are
memorial tablets of all the officers of our army who fell in the
Mexican War, and trophy guns and colors taken by Generals Scott and
Taylor, during their campaigns in the same war.
The LIBRARY BUILDING contains temporarily the offices of the
Superintendent, Adjutant, Quartermaster, and Treasurer. On the second
floor, which is not usually open to visitors, is situated the
Lecture-room and apparatus of the department of Philosophy and
Astronomy. The dome contains an equatorial telescope, and the flank
towers a transit instrument and mural circle. The Library occupies the
east end of the building. It contains about 20,000 volumes, chiefly on
professional and scientific subjects, and several fine portraits of
former Superintendents and Chiefs of the Engineer Department.
The capacious RIDING HALL stands on the bank of the river, a little
below the Library; and from the interesting exercises therein, it is
deservedly regarded as one of the most attractive points at the
Military Academy. The hours for riding are from 11 A.M. to 1 P.M.,
except during the period of the Cadets' encampment, with occasional
interruptions, when the evolutions of a squadron are practised on the
Plain. The course of instruction embodies running at the heads,
running at the ring with poised sabre, exercises with pistols,
leaping bars and hurdles, and many other feats which afford little
room for monotony or wearisome interest, even among those accustomed
to witnessing equestrian displays.
Northward from the Library a path leads down the bank to KOSCIUSZKO'S
GARDEN--a shelving terrace overhung with shrubbery, and rendered
inviting by a cool spring of water, and a tradition that the patriot
Pole, whose name the spot bears, here sought retirement and seclusion.
The Monument to "Dade and his Command" tells its own story, and
American history has yet to furnish an example of devotion to duty
similar to that exhibited by those whose names are here inscribed. A
little beyond is seen Battery Knox, whose armament proclaims the
tidings on all occasions of national joy or sadness. From this point,
the lower pathway, called the "Chain Battery Walk," conducts the
visitor through a delightful ramble to Gee's Point and the North
Wharf, or by a branch, to the Hotel above. The upper path returns to
the road along the crest of the bank, and a few steps brings the
tourist to FORT CLINTON.
Within the latter, on the extreme angle nearest the river, stands a
marble column, sacred to military virtue in the person of Kosciuszko,
and forming in itself by reason of the ideas it evokes, a striking
contrast to the dark halo of despite and shame that hovers around the
name of Arnold, whose apostasy is inseparably connected with the very
name of West Point. THADDEUS KOSCIUSZKO was a native of Poland, whose
education began at Warsaw and was completed at Paris. Having
determined to cast his lot with the Americans, then struggling for
liberty, he was furnished by Franklin with letters to Washington, and
came to America. He was appointed Aide-de-Camp to Washington, and
subsequently commissioned as Colonel of Engineers. Highly
distinguished for his courage and skill in the campaign against
Burgoyne, and as the directing Engineer at West Point, he returned to
Poland at the close of the Revolution, rewarded by the thanks of
Congress and the commission of Brevet Brigadier-General, to serve as a
General of Division under Poniatowski. In the Polish Insurrection of
1793 he was chosen Generalissimo, with the powers of a Roman Dictator.
He immediately issued a decree, authorizing the insurrection, and at
once proceeded to unite the Polish divisions, and in a few days the
Russians were driven from the Palatinate. Meantime, the Prussians
having joined Russia, the rest of the struggle was a continuous
resistance against superior forces, until at last, at Maciejowice, on
the 10th of October, 1794, he was completely defeated and overwhelmed
by the Russians. He fell wounded from his horse, with the bitter wail
on his lips, "Finis Polonie." Taken prisoner, and conveyed to a
fortress near St. Petersburg, he underwent a long confinement until
the accession of Paul I., who, feeling an admiration for his
character, restored him to freedom, and presented him with his sword.
"I have no longer occasion for a sword," sadly replied Kosciuszko,
"since I have no longer a country." He visited America in 1797, and
was triumphantly and warmly welcomed by the grateful people. He
returned to Switzerland and resided at Solothurn, where he died on
October 15, 1817. His body was interred at Cracow with great pomp in
the funeral vaults of the Kings of Poland, between the coffins of
Poniatowski and Sobieski. The Senate decreed in his honor the erection
of an enormous mound on the Heights of Bronislawad. The gratuitous
labor of all classes succeeded in raising this "Mound of Kosciuszko"
to the height of 300 feet in three years, and it will remain for ages
a noble monument of his country's gratitude. Kosciuszko was never
married, and the simple column at West Point, in full view of
thousands of travelers, will long serve as a memorial of gratitude
from the American nation, and an enduring protest against the
destruction of Poland, and the ruin and death of many freedom lovers
as noble and virtuous as Kosciuszko himself.
The "DRIVES" at West Point and its vicinity, although limited in
extent by the rugged character of the region, are possessed of
infinite variety and beauty, from the constantly changing aspect of
river, mountain, and valley. Besides the routes on the Post itself,
the road South, along the riverbank to Fort Montgomery, about four
miles distant, from its smoothness, easy grades, and the numerous
attractive residences by the wayside, affords many present and
pleasing after reminiscences of a sojourn at this delightful retreat.
Prominent among these attractions, and scarcely a mile distant from
West Point, on the very brink of a precipice towering over the Hudson,
stands COZZENS' HOTEL, the name of which is inseparably associated
with the name of its founder, whose benevolence, geniality, and
hospitality is so intimately connected with West Point and the
traveling public.
[Illustration: 1866. West Point AND ITS VICINITY.]
Directly west of the Hotel stands the picturesque little church of the
"Holy Innocents," erected by Professor Weir, to commemorate the
early decease of two of his children. A little distance below, the
village of Highland Falls is situated, on both sides of a mountain
stream bearing the name of Buttermilk Falls, derived from the foaming
passage of the water over steep rocks into the Hudson below. From this
point onward to Fort Montgomery, the occasional expanse of the river,
the charming country seats dotting the bank, and the magnificence of
the mountains, continually inspires a feeling of happiness and
contentment.
FORT MONTGOMERY is situated on the north bank of Pooplopen's Creek, at
its junction with the Hudson. It is elevated about 130 feet above the
water, and the view from its ruined parapet covers an extent, and
surpasses if possible in wildness, the landscape seen from the West
Point Hotel. FORT CLINTON, similarly elevated, stood directly opposite
on the south side of the creek, and both works possess more than
ordinary interest from having been the scene of a bloody assault and
capture by a British force, under the command of Sir Henry Clinton,
in October 1777. The forts were simultaneously carried at the point of
the bayonet by overwhelming numbers; the last named, by a column
moving up the bank of the river, and the former, by one moving down
the valley, between the Dunderberg and Bear Mountain, through which
the creek makes its way.
From West Point westward, the road diverges to the CEMETERY,
overlooking Camptown, where the soldiers are quartered, Washington's
Valley, a little beyond, Constitution Island, the Foundry, and the
village of Cold Spring. The tasteful monuments, with their military
insignia and mournful inscriptions, unveil the attachment of many who
fell in Florida, Mexico, Oregon, and in the Rebellion, for the spot
protected and consecrated by their Alma Mater. The branch road south,
immediately without the first West gate, leads to Fort Putnam, and
intersects the river route a little above Cozzens' Hotel. The main
road west, known as the "Canterbury Road," leads to Turner's Station,
on the Erie Railroad, about fourteen miles distant, passing Long Pond,
and the vicinity of many other ponds indicated on the map, most of
which afford fine resorts for angling and hunting in the appropriate
season. Three miles from West Point a branch from this road leads
across the mountain to Canterbury, Cornwall, and Newburg, but the
route is so rough as to render it unsuitable for pleasure driving.
Just before reaching this point a road extends south through Eagle
Valley to Highland Falls, affording a circuit of about seven miles,
through a region abounding with new beauties at every turn. The road
is in good condition, and the proposed intention of the Cozzens'
Brothers to add to the attractions of their Hotel by erecting a
mountain retreat at the Round Pond, will doubtless lead to further
improvements.