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ALLIED COOKERY
British
French
Italian
Belgian
Russian
Arranged by
GRACE CLERGUE HARRISON and GERTRUDE CLERGUE
_To Aid the War Sufferers in the Devastated Districts of France_
Introduction by
Hon. Raoul Dandurand
Commandeur de la Légion d'Honneur
Prefaced by
Stephen Leacock and Ella Wheeler Wilcox
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York and London
The Knickerbocker Press
1916
Copyright, 1916
by
Grace Clergue Harrison
The Knickerbocker Press, New York
THE PURPOSE
of this little book is to procure funds in aid of the farmers in that
part of France which was devastated by the invasion of the German
armies and subsequently regained by the French.
This region, in part, one of the most fertile in France, and which
sustained hundreds of thousands of inhabitants engaged in agricultural
pursuits, has been left desolate, with all buildings destroyed and all
farming implements, cattle, and farm products taken off by the invaders
for military uses.
Its old men, women, and children, who survived the slaughter of
invasion, are now undertaking the labour of restoring their farms. To
help in the supply of seeds, farm implements, and other simple but
essential means of enabling these suffering people to regain by their
own efforts the necessaries of life, the compilers offer to the public
this book on Cookery.
Its proceeds will be distributed by Le Secours National, of France,
whose effective organization assures its best and most helpful
disposition.
An acknowledgment must be made for the kind assistance of friends
in securing desirable recipes. There are some that will be novel to
many households, and all of them will give satisfaction when exactly
followed.
The compilers will gladly answer requests for information from any one
wishing further to support this cause.
MRS. WM. LYNDE HARRISON,
Milestone House,
Branford, Conn.
MISS GERTRUDE CLERGUE,
597 Sherbrooke Street West,
Montreal.
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION. _Hon. R. Dandurand_ 5
ALLIED FOOD. _Stephen Leacock_ 8
FOREWORD. _Ella Wheeler Wilcox_ 12
CHARLOTTE DE POMMES. _Elise Jusserand_ 14
SOUPS
Bouillabaisse 15
Borcht 16
Mushroom Soup 17
Serbian Chicken Soup 17
Vegetable Soup 18
Lettuce Soup 19
Pot-au-Feu 19
Onion Soup 20
Soldiers' Soup 21
Stschi 21
Buraki 22
Lentil Soup 22
Black Bean Soup 23
Fish Chowder 23
FISH
Roast Oysters 24
Raie au Beurre Noir 24
Salmon Tidnish 25
Aubergine Aux Crevettes 25
Lobster Beaugency 26
Scallops en Brochette 26
Filet of Sole Florentine 26
Salmon Teriyaki 27
Filet of Sole Marguery 28
Codfish with Green Peppers 28
Herring Roes, Baked 29
Creamed Fish 30
Mousseline of Fish 30
Haddock Mobile 31
Kedgaree 31
Pickled Salmon 31
MEATS AND ENTRÉES
Russian Pirog Kulbak 33
Carbonade Flamande 33
Blanquette of Veal 34
Blanquette of Chicken 35
Stracotto 35
Duck St. Albans 36
Boned Turkey 37
Chicken and Cabbage 37
Leg-of-Mutton Pie 38
Russian Steaks 38
Another Russian Method for Beef-Steaks 39
Stewed Kidneys 39
Chicken 40
Baked Ham 40
Rillettes de Tours 41
Rice and Mutton 42
Baked Eggs 42
Tripe 42
Tripe, Italian 43
Timbale of Partridges 44
Stewed Hare 44
Indian Pilau 46
Stuffed Beef Steaks 47
Podvarak 47
Ribs of Pork en Casserole 48
Salmis de Lapin 48
Sheep's Head 49
Macaroni Pie 50
Kidney and Mushrooms 51
CURRIES
Indian Curry 52
Fricassee of Chicken 52
A Simpler Indian Curry 53
Another Curry Sauce 54
PASTES, CHEESE, ETC.
Macaroni with Cheese 56
Macaroni 56
Polenta with Cheese 57
Lentil Croquettes 57
Risotto 58
Risotto Milanaise 58
Ravioli 59
Egg Coquilles, with Spinach 60
Pirog of Mushrooms 60
Paste for Russian Pirog 60
Eggs Romanoff 61
Oeufs Pochés Ivanhoe 61
Cheese Puffs 61
Moskva Cheesecakes 62
Cheese Fritters 62
Cheese Pudding 63
Chicory or Endive 63
Stewed Cos Lettuces 63
Asparagus 64
Celery Croquettes 65
Ragoût of Celery 66
Stuffed Onions 67
Onions, Venetian Style 67
Fried Pumpkin or Squash 68
Cucumbers 68
Sarma 69
Polenta Pasticciata 70
Fried Bread with Raisins 71
Polenta Croquettes 72
Rice with Mushrooms 72
Timbales of Bread with Parmesan Sauce 73
SAUCES
Cheese Sauce 74
Tomato Sauce 74
Another Tomato Sauce 74
Mustard Sauce 75
A Meat Sauce 75
Another Meat Sauce 76
Lombarda Sauce 76
Horse-Radish Sauce 77
Gnocchi di Semolina 77
SALADS
Italian Salad 79
Lettuce Salad 79
Sandwich Dressing 79
Salad Dressing 80
Cheese Dressing 80
VEGETABLES
Potato Cakes 81
Petits Pois 81
String Beans 81
Red Cabbage 82
Cabbage with Cheese Sauce 82
Glazed Onions 83
Spinach Soufflé 83
PUDDINGS, CAKES, ETC.
French Pancakes 84
Crepes Suzette 84
Sauce for Crepes Suzette 84
Another Suzette Pancake 85
Kisel 85
Carrot Pudding 86
Old English Plum Pudding 86
Banana Trifle 87
Cream Tart 87
Chocolate Pudding 88
Fried Apples 89
Orange Pudding 89
Oat Cakes 90
Tea-Cakes 91
Tea Pancakes 91
Canadian War Cake 92
Serbian Cake 92
Ravioli Dolce 93
Chestnuts 93
Gnocchi of Milk 94
Almond Pudding 94
Chestnut Fritters 95
Chestnut Cream 95
Tapioca Pudding 96
Ginger Ice-Cream 97
Almond Cake 97
Queen Cakes 98
Francescas 98
Oat Cakes 98
Gateau Polonais 99
Anise Cakes 99
Gordon Highlander Gingerbread 100
Scotch Short Bread 100
Cramique 100
Gaufres 101
Pets de Nonne 101
Brioche de la Lune 102
Victoria Scones 103
Nut Bread 103
Bran Muffins 103
Scotch Scones 104
Blinni 104
Baked Hominy 104
Marrons Glacés 105
Small Cucumber Pickles 105
Preserved Strawberries 106
Rhubarb Jelly 107
Tomato Soup for Canning 107
Budo Cup 108
INTRODUCTION
COMITÉ FRANCE-AMÉRIQUE
(Section Canadienne)
Chambre-31, Edifice "Duluth"
Montréal, March 2, 1916.
MRS. WM. LYNDE HARRISON,
MISS G. CLERGUE.
Mesdames:
Vous désirez faire quelque chose pour venir en aide aux victimes de la
guerre en France et, dans ce but, vous publiez un livre utile dont vous
faites tous les frais d'impression de manière à ce que le produit total
de la vente soit versé au Comité de Secours National de Paris.
Le but que vous vous proposez est fort louable car les besoins sont
grands au pays de France. On a fait dernièrement le recensement des
réfugiés belges et français chassés de leurs demeures et recueillis
dans les diverses communes de France. Ils sont plus de 900,000 et
les allemands out renvoyé en France par la voie de la Suisse plus
de 100,000 prisonniers--vieillards, femmes et enfants--qu'ils ne
voulaient plus nourrir et qui out été rendus, dénués de tout, à la
charité publique. Tous ces malheureux doivent être vêtus de la tête
aux pieds. Les Etats-Unis et le Canada out heureusement fait leur part
pour soulager cette grande infortune, grâce aux appels réitérés de
l'American Relief Clearing House de Paris et de New-York et des divers
comités canadiens du Secours National de Paris, organisés par le Comité
France-Amérique.
Les hôpitaux français réclament aussi, à bon droit, notre sollicitude,
car c'est la France qui supporte le plus fort de l'assaut teuton
sur la frontière de l'Ouest et ses blessés doivent dépasser le demi
million. Devant cette grande détresse la Croix-Rouge américaine et
la Croix-Rouge canadienne ne sont pas demeurées indifférentes et
des milliers de caisses out été envoyées aux hôpitaux français.
Malheureusement la liste des calamités qui out fondu sur la France ne
s'arrête pas là: tout le territore envahi par les troupes allemandes,
dont elles out été chassées, qui va de la Marne à l'Aisne, et que
couvraient des centaines de villages prospéres dans une des régions
les plus fertiles et les plus riches de la France, a été ravagé
par les troupes ennemies. Les propriétaires de ces milliers de
fermes--vieillards, femmes et enfants--sont revenus à leurs foyers
détruits pour relever leurs maisons et faire produire à la terre la
nourriture dont ils ont besoin. Ils ont tout perdu: maisons, meubles,
vêtements, animaux, instruments aratoires. Ce sont ces derniers qui
attirent particulièrement votre commisération. En face de cette misère
effroyable tous les coeurs s'émeuvent et chacun veut apporter son
aide à ces braves gens. Vous donnez au public une occasion facile et
agréable de faire ce geste en mettant à sa portée un livre intéressant
dont le prix ira soulager les nobles victimes de la guerre en France.
Je vous souhaite une forte recette. Veuillez agréer, mesdames, avec mes
félicitations, l'expression de mes sentiments distingués.
[Illustration: R. Dandurand]
_Président du Comité France-Amérique
Section Canadienne._
ALLIED FOOD
As soon as I heard of the proposed plan of this book I became
positively frantic to co-operate in it. The idea of a cookery book
which should contain Allied Recipes and Allied Recipes only, struck me
at once as one of the finest ideas of the day.
For myself I have felt for some time past that the time is gone, and
gone for ever, when I can eat a German Pretzel or a Wiener Schnitzel.
It gives me nothing but remorse to remember that there were days when
I tolerated, I may even say I enjoyed, Hungarian Goulash. I could not
eat it now. As for Bulgarian Boosh or Turkish Tch'kk, the mere names of
them make me ill.
For me, for the rest of my life, it must be Allied Food or no food at
all. One may judge, therefore, with what delight I received the news
of this patriotic enterprise. I at once telegraphed to the editors the
following words:
"Am willing to place at your service without charge entire knowledge of
cookery. Forty-six years' practical experience."
To this telegram I received no reply. I am aware that there is, even
in cooking circles, a certain amount of professional jealousy. It may
be that I had overpassed the line of good taste in offering my entire
knowledge. I should have only offered part of it.
I therefore resolved that instead of writing the whole book as I had at
first intended, I would content myself with sending to the editors, a
certain number of selected recipes of a kind calculated to put the book
in a class all by itself.
I sent, in all, fifty recipes. I regret to say that after looking over
the pages of the book with the greatest care, and after looking also on
the back of them, I do not find my recipes included in it. The obvious
conclusion is that while this book was in the press my recipes were
stolen out of it.
The various dishes that I had selected were of so distinctive a
character and the art involved in their preparation so entirely
_recherché_ that it seems a pity that they should be altogether lost.
They contained a certain _je ne sais quoi_ which would have marked them
out as emphatically the perquisite of the few. To say that they were
dishes for a king is to understate the fact.
It is therefore merely in the public interest and from no sense of
personal vanity that I reproduce the substance of one or two of them in
this preface. There was a whole section, for example, on Eggs, which I
am extremely loath to lose. It showed how by holding an egg down under
boiling water till it is exhausted, it may be first cooked and then be
passed under a flat iron until it becomes an Egg Pancake. It may be
then given a thin coat of varnish and served in a railway restaurant
for years and years.
I had also an excellent recipe for Rum Omelette. It read: "Take a
dipper full of rum and insert an omelette in it. Serve anywhere in
Ontario." I am convinced that this recipe alone would have been worth
its weight in rum.
But it would be childish of me to lay too much stress on my own
personal disappointment or regret. When I realized what had happened
I felt at once that my co-operation in this book must take some other
form. I therefore sent to the editors a second telegram which read:
"Am willing to eat free of charge all dishes contained in volume."
This offer was immediately accepted, and I am happy to assure readers
of this book that I have eaten each and every one of the preparations
in the pages that follow. To prevent all doubt I make this statement
under oath. I had intended to make merely an honest statement of the
fact but my friends tell me that a statement under oath is better in
such a case than a mere honest statement.
Stephen Leacock
FOREWORD
God what a world! if men in street and mart
Felt that same impulse of the human heart
Which makes them in the hour of flame and flood
Rise to the meaning of true Brotherhood!
THE heart of the world throbs with sympathy for the suffering women and
children in the war-devastated countries of Europe. He who does not
long to be a helper in this hour of vast need and unprecedented anguish
must be made of something more adamant than stone. America owes a large
debt to the culinary artists of Europe. Without their originality and
finished skill, in the creation of savory dishes for the table, the
art of entertaining in our land could never have attained its present
perfection.
Ever ready to incorporate in her own methods whatever other countries
had to offer as improvements, America has received from the epicurean
chefs of Europe conspicuous benefits. In every menu from coast to
coast, these facts make themselves evident. It is then fitting, that
at this crucial hour, we repay something of the debt we owe by
making this little cooking manual an instant and decided success,
knowing the proceeds from its sale will relieve such distress as we
in our sheltered homes can scarcely picture by the greatest effort of
imagination.
Our souls should be vessels receiving
The waters of love for relieving
The sorrows of men.
For here lies the pleasure of living:
In taking God's bounties and giving
The gifts back again.
Ella Wheeler Wilcox
CHARLOTTE DE POMMES
Prendre des pommes reinettes épépinées, émincées et sautées au beurre
avec quelques pincées du sucre et une demi-gousse de vanille.
De cette fondue de pommes qui ne doit pas être trop cuite, on garnit
un moule à charlotte dont les parois auront été revêtues d'étroites
tranches de mie de pain trempées dans du beurre épuré et saupoudré de
sucre.
Ces tranches de pain doivent être placées dans le moule, se
chevauchant, les unes sur les autres.
Garnir le fond du moule d'une abaisse de pain de mie également beurrée
et saupoudrée de sucre.
Recouvrir la charlotte d'une abaisse prise dans la croûte du pain de
mie afin de la protéger contre l'action trop vive du calorique.
Faire cuire la charlotte au four pendant 35 ou 40 minutes; la laisser
reposer pendant quelques minutes à l'étuve avant de la démouler, et la
servir avec une sauce à l'abricot, parfumée au Kirsch.
Elise Jusserand
_Ambassade de France aux Etats-Unis._
March 2, 1916.
Allied Cookery
Soups
BOUILLABAISSE
(The national dish of Marseille)
Indeed, a rich and savory stew 'tis;
And true philosophers, methinks,
Who love all sorts of natural beauties,
Should love good victuals and good drinks.
And Cordelier or Benedictine
Might gladly, sure, his lot embrace,
Nor find a fast day too afflicting,
Which served him up a Bouillabaisse.
THACKERAY.
Cut off the best parts of 3 medium-sized flounders and 6 butterfish and
put them aside; the remaining parts of the fish--skin, bones, heads,
etc.--boil in water 20 minutes; this should make 1 quart of fish stock
when strained.
Put 3 tablespoons of olive oil in stew-pan, add 4 chopped onions, 3
cloves of chopped garlic, a few sprigs of parsley, 1 bayleaf, 1/4
teaspoon fennel, 1/4 teaspoon saffron, 1/2 teaspoon whole black pepper
ground, salt, fry until golden brown. Then add 3 or 4 tomatoes and a
pimento, 1/3 quart of white wine, 2/3 quart of water, boil 15 minutes.
Strain and return to the kettle; add the flounder and butterfish in
pieces as large as possible, 1/2 lb. of codfish tongues, 1 lb. of eel;
boil 10 minutes, add the fish stock, 1 lb. of scallops, boil 10 more
minutes. Rub together 1 oz. of flour and 1 oz. of butter; drop this in
the soup in little balls five minutes before serving. Then put in 1/2
lb. of shrimps and 1 large boiled lobster cut in large pieces. Rub with
garlic some round slices of bread and serve the Bouillabaisse on them.
This will serve 12 persons.
One is not able to obtain here the varieties of fish of the Midi, but
the above will make an excellent substitute.
BORCHT
(Russian)
Make a clear, light-coloured, highly seasoned stock of beef and veal or
of chicken. Strain and remove all fat. A Russian gourmet will say that
really good Borcht should be made with 2 ducks and a chicken in the
stock. Cut up some red beets and boil them in the stock; about 4 large
beets to 8 cups of stock. When the beets are cooked squeeze in enough
lemon-juice to give it a slightly acid flavour, then clear by stirring
in the whipped white of an egg and bringing it to the boiling point.
Strain carefully. Serve in cups with a spoonful of sour cream. If the
colour fails to be bright red, a few drops of vegetable colouring may
be added.
MUSHROOM SOUP
(French)
Three-quarters lb. of fresh mushrooms, 1 cup of water, 2 tablespoons
of butter, 2 tablespoons of flour, 4 cups of scalded milk, 1/2 cup of
cream, a few gratings of nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
Put the mushrooms in a stew-pan with 1 tablespoon of butter, a few
gratings of nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and 1 cup of water; cook over
a good fire 20 minutes, then pass through a coarse sieve. Cream 1
tablespoon of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour, add this to 4 cups of
scalded milk. When this thickens to a thin cream, add the mushrooms;
just before serving add 1/2 cup of cream.
SERBIAN CHICKEN SOUP
Cut a fowl in four or five pieces. Put in a kettle with about one
quart of water to each pound of fowl. When half cooked add salt and a
carrot, parsnip, some celery and parsley, an onion, and a few whole
black peppers.
In a separate pan put a tablespoon of lard and 1/2 tablespoon of flour.
Stir this until it is brown and add some paprika, according to taste.
Add this to the soup. Let it boil a few minutes. Just before serving
the soup stir in well the yolk of an egg beaten with three tablespoons
of cream.
VEGETABLE SOUP
(Minestrone alla Milanese)
One-half quart of stock, 2 slices of lean pork, or a ham bone; 2
tomatoes, fresh or canned; 1 cup of rice, 2 tablespoons of dried beans,
1 tablespoon of peas, fresh or canned; 2 onions.
Put into the stock the slices of pork, cut into small pieces; or, if
desired, a ham bone may be substituted for the pork. Add the tomatoes,
cut into small pieces also, the onions, in small pieces, and the rice.
Boil all together until the rice is cooked. Then add the beans and the
peas and cook a little longer. The soup is ready when it is thick. If
desired, this chowder can be made with fish broth instead of the stock,
and with the addition of shrimps which have been taken from their
shells.
This dish can be served hot or cold.
LETTUCE SOUP
(Zuppa di Lattuga)
One small lettuce, meat stock, 2 potatoes, the leaves of a head of
celery, 2 tablespoons of peas, fresh or canned, 1 heaping tablespoon of
flour.
Put the potatoes, cold boiled, into the stock when it boils, add the
celery leaves, the lettuce chopped up, the peas, and the flour mixed
well with a little cold stock or water. Boil for one hour and a half,
and serve with little squares of fried bread.
POT-AU-FEU
(French family soup)
Ingredients.--4 lbs. of brisket of beef, the legs and neck of a fowl,
1/2 a cabbage, 2 leeks, 1 large onion, 2 carrots, a bouquet-garni
(parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, 4
cloves, 12 peppercorns, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of French
bread, 6 quarts of cold water.
Put the meat and water into a stock-pot or boiling pot; let it come
gently to boiling point, and skim well. Wash and clean the vegetables,
stick the cloves in the onion, tie up the cabbage and leeks, and put
all in with the meat. Add the carrots cut into large pieces, the
bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and salt, and let the whole simmer gently
for 4 hours. Just before serving cut the bread into thin slices, place
them in a soup tureen, and add some of the carrot, leeks, and onions
cut into small pieces. Remove the meat from the pot, season the broth
to taste, and strain it into the soup tureen. Sprinkle the chopped
parsley on the top, and serve. The meat and remaining vegetables may be
served as a separate course; they may also be used up in some form for
another meal. Or the meat and vegetables may be served and the broth
put aside and used on the following day as "Croute-au-pot."
ONION SOUP
(Soupe à l'Oignon)
Slice or chop two medium-sized onions; let them colour an instant in 1
oz. of butter; add a tablespoonful of flour; make a brown thickening.
The onions must on no account be allowed to burn. Add 2-1/2 quarts of
water, salt, and a pinch of pepper; stir on the fire until it boils;
let it cook five minutes. Cut some slices of bread very fine (like a
leaf); dry them in an open oven. Place in the tureen a layer of bread,
a layer of grated cheese, until the tureen is half full. Pass the soup
through a sieve into the tureen. Allow a few minutes to well soak the
bread; at the same time the soup must not be allowed to get cold. If
onions are not objected to do not strain them off.
SOLDIERS' SOUP
(Soupe à la Bataille)
Wash well and chop fine a small white cabbage or lettuce (cos
preferred), 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 3 leeks, 1 head of celery. Let these
vegetables take colour for about three minutes in 2 ozs. of good fat
or butter. Add 3 quarts of water and a pinch of salt; let it boil. Add
five raw potatoes cut like the vegetables, a handful of green French
beans cut up, the same quantity of green peas. Cook over a good fire
for two hours. The soup should be quite smooth; if it is not so, beat
it well with a whisk; if too much reduced add more water. Season to
taste; at the last add a little chopped chervil. A bone of ham or the
remains of bacon improve this soup immensely.
STSCHI
(Russian)
Cut up a cabbage, heat in butter, and moisten with 3 tablespoons of
stock. Add 2 lbs. of beef brisket, cut into large dice, 3 pints of
water, and cook 1-1/2 hours. Chop up 2 onions, 2 leeks, and a parsnip
in small dice, add 2 tablespoons of sour cream and 1 tablespoon of
flour. Add this mixture to the soup about 1/2 hour before serving.
Small buckwheat cakes are served with it.
BURAKI
(Russian)
Cut in cubes 4 or 5 lbs. of fat beef in enough water to make a good
bouillon and boil it well. Cut some raw beets into small thin slices
about an inch long, chop some onion, and with a tablespoon of butter
stew them until tender and somewhat brown; add to the beef bouillon 1
spoonful of flour mixed with 2 spoonsful of vinegar, the beets, and
onion and let all this cook in the oven until the beets and beef are
quite tender. It should be closely covered. Sausages and some pieces
of ham may be added if wished. Before you serve the bouillon, add some
sour cream.
LENTIL SOUP
(French)
Soak overnight 1 cup of lentils; the next day boil them until tender
enough to pass them through a sieve with 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 leeks,
1 quart of water, 1 dessert-spoonful of salt. Cut some slices of bread
and place them in the bottom of a tureen and pour over them a little
olive oil. When ready to serve pour the strained soup over the slices
of bread.
BLACK BEAN SOUP
(Russian)
Soak 1 cup of black beans in cold water several hours. Pour off the
water and boil in 1 quart of fresh water until soft enough to rub
through a strainer; if it boils away, add more water to cover them.
There should be about 1 pint when strained. Add the same quantity of
stock or water and put on to boil again. When boiling, add 1 tablespoon
of corn-starch in a little cold water and cook 5 to 8 minutes. Season
with salt, pepper, a little mustard, juice of 1 lemon, or wine; serve
with fried bread cut in little squares and slices of hard boiled egg or
lemon.
FISH CHOWDER
(New England)
Four lbs. of fresh cod or haddock, 2 onions, 6 potatoes, 1/4 lb. of
salt pork, salt, pepper.
Put the onions and potatoes, sliced in layers, in a kettle, then a
layer of fish until all is used. Fry the pork, cut in small pieces,
brown, take the fat and pour over all. Cover with boiling water and
cook 20 minutes. Then mix 2 spoonsful of flour with a cup of cream,
stir into the boiling chowder, boil up, and serve.
Clams may be substituted for fish.
Fish
ROAST OYSTERS
Arrange the oysters on the half-shell in a pan of coarse salt. Squeeze
a little lemon-juice over each. Sprinkle with very little fine buttered
bread-crumbs and place on each oyster bits of butter the size of a pea.
Put under the grill until lightly browned. The flame must be over the
oysters and care taken that they are not over-cooked.
A. A. B., Chef, Mount Royal Club.
RAIE AU BEURRE NOIR
Boil a piece of skate slowly in well salted water. When done, remove
the skin and sprinkle with some blanched, that is, parboiled, capers.
Pour over the fish a good quantity of butter which has been well
browned in a frying pan; then a little boiling vinegar. Shake the
platter once to mix the sauce together.
It may not commonly be known that the skate, so neglected in this
country, takes very well the place of the delectable raie of Europe.
H. S., Chef, Ritz-Carlton Hotel.
SALMON TIDNISH
(Canadian)
Scrape the fish and wash it. Rub in a tablespoon of salt; place the
fish in a baking pan and score it across 4 or 5 times. Mix 1 cup of
fine bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoon of minced parsley, 1/8 teaspoon of
whole black pepper ground, 2 dessert spoons of salt, milk to moisten
well, rub over the fish, and put good-sized lumps of butter in the
gashes. Cover the bottom of the pan with milk and put in a rather hot
oven, basting every 10 or 15 minutes with the milk, which must be
renewed in the pan often. When cooked lift from the pan onto a tin
sheet, then slide carefully into the dish on which it is to be served;
garnish with lemon and hard-boiled eggs, the gravy in the pan served
with it. A piece of halibut may be cooked in the same manner.
AUBERGINE AUX CREVETTES
Scoop out one egg-plant, leaving shell about half an inch thick;
parboil this and the shell for ten minutes. Chop the pulp and season
with salt and pepper. Cut up an onion, brown in 1/4 cup of butter, add
one cup of chopped, cooked, shrimp meat, fry for five minutes, then add
the chopped egg-plant; cook all together for ten minutes more. Add 1
egg and 1/2 cup of bread-crumbs, fill shell with the mixture, cover
with bread-crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in the oven.
LOBSTER BEAUGENCY
(St. James's Club specialty)
Boil a medium-sized lobster for 20 minutes; when cool, split in two.
Remove flesh from shells and cut in dice. Fry in butter, add a glass of
sherry. Add 2 tablespoonsful of cream sauce and 1/2 pint of cream, let
it boil slowly for 10 minutes; in the meantime have 2 yolks of eggs, a
few spoonsful of cream, an ounce of butter, mix slowly with the lobster
and season to taste. Fill shells to the brim with this preparation and
bake in oven.
SCALLOPS EN BROCHETTE
Alternate scallops and thin slices of bacon on skewers; place upright
on the rack in the oven; bake until the scallops are well browned.
Served on slices of buttered toast.
FILET OF SOLE FLORENTINE
After removing the skin put the fish in a plate with a slice of onion,
a little parsley, and a spoonful of butter, 1/2 cup of white wine,
salt, pepper, and cook for 10 minutes slowly; when cooked remove the
fish, take a long porcelain dish in which you lay some boiled spinach
fried a minute in butter with a suspicion of minced onion. Put the fish
on top of this spinach, add the juice of the fish in the plate to a
good white sauce, a spoonful of grated cheese, a pinch of cayenne, and
cover the fish with this sauce, put in oven, brown nicely and serve in
the same dish.
Any fine white fish may be similarly treated.
SALMON TERIYAKI
(Japanese)
Mix well together 1/2 cup of Japanese Shoyu, and 1 tablespoonful of
Mirin; put a salmon on the grill, and when nearly done spread the sauce
on the salmon with a brush freely, then put back on the grill and cook
until it browns. When that side is done, cook the other side the same
way.
NOTE.--Japanese Shoyu is made of wheat and beans; it may be obtained in
New York or in any city where there is a large Japanese Colony. Mirin
is cooking wine. These are most important ingredients for Japanese
cooking. Chinese sauce may be used instead of Shoyu which may be
obtained at any Chinese restaurant. Sauterne may be used instead of
Mirin in which case add 1 teaspoonful of sugar.
FILET OF SOLE MARGUERY
Poach the filet of sole or flounder in fish stock; pour over the dish a
rich white wine sauce garnished with shrimps and mussels and glaze in a
very hot oven.
CODFISH WITH GREEN PEPPERS
(Italian)
Remove the skin and bones from one-half pound of salted codfish which
has been soaked. Cut the codfish into small squares. Then dip it again
into fresh water, and put the squares onto a napkin to dry. The fish
may either be left as it is, or, before proceeding, you may roll it in
flour and fry it in lard or oil.
Then take two good-sized green peppers, roast them on top of the stove,
remove the skins and seeds, wash them, dry them, and cut them in narrow
strips. When this is done put three generous tablespoons of olive-oil
into a saucepan with one onion cut up, and fry the onion over a slow
fire. Take two big tomatoes, skin them, remove the seeds and hard
parts, and cut them into small pieces. When the onion has taken a good
colour, add the tomatoes, then add the peppers and a little salt and
pepper. If the sauce is too thick, add a little water. When the peppers
are half cooked, add some chopped-up parsley and the codfish. Cover up
the saucepan and let it simmer until the fish is cooked.
HERRING ROES, BAKED
(Manx)
Eight fresh soft roes, 3 tablespoonsful of thick brown sauce, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of anchovy essence, 1-1/2
ozs. of butter, 4 coarsely chopped button mushrooms, 1 very finely
chopped shallot, 1/2 a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, lightly
browned breadcrumbs, 8 round or oval china or paper soufflé cases.
Brush the inside of the cases with clarified butter. Heat 1 oz. of
butter in a small stew-pan, put in the mushrooms, shallot, and parsley,
fry lightly, then drain off the butter into a sauté pan. Add the brown
sauce, lemon-juice, and anchovy essence to the mushrooms, etc., season
to taste, and when hot pour a small teaspoonful into each paper case.
Re-heat the butter in the sauté pan, toss the roes gently over the fire
until lightly browned, then place one in each case, and cover them with
the remainder of the sauce. Add a thin layer of bread-crumbs, on the
top place 2 or 3 morsels of butter, and bake in a quick oven for 6 or 7
minutes. Serve as hot as possible.
CREAMED FISH
One and a half cups of flaked halibut, or any cold boiled fish. 2
cups milk, 1/4 cup butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, bit of bayleaf,
dash of mace, sprig of parsley, 1 small onion, 1/2 cup of buttered
bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon of sherry.
Scald the milk with the onion, bay-leaf, mace, and parsley; remove the
seasonings, melt the butter, add the flour, salt, pepper, and gradually
the milk. Put the fish in a deep buttered dish (or in individual
dishes). Pour over it the sauce and cover with the buttered crumbs.
Just before taking from the oven make an opening in the crust of crumbs
and put in a tablespoon of sherry.
MOUSSELINE OF FISH
One lb. of raw halibut chopped very finely (any firm white fish can be
used).
Mix the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, very
fine, 1 cup of cream, 1/4 lb. of almonds cut in fine strips, a pinch
of mace, a little bit of onion juice or, if preferred, 1/4 teaspoonful
of lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Steam in a mould or bake in a pan of
water or in individual moulds for three-quarters of an hour. Serve with
a rich cream, or mushroom, or lobster sauce.
This is good cold in summer with a cucumber sauce or light mayonnaise.
HADDOCK MOBILE
Bone a good sized haddock and cut in pieces 4 inches square, place
them side by side in a deep buttered pan, add salt and pepper; arrange
1 lb. of tomatoes, cut in thick slices, on the pieces of fish, cover
with a thick layer of biscuit crumbs, put good sized lumps of butter at
frequent intervals on the crumbs, baste it often with 1/4 of a cup of
butter in a cup of water. Serve with a thin tomato sauce.
KEDGAREE
Put 1 oz. of butter in a stew-pan; when melted, add 4 oz. of boiled
rice (cold), stir for a minute, then add 8 or 10 oz. of cooked white
fish which should be flaked and free from bones, then add any kind of
fish sauce with the cut-up whites of 2 eggs hard boiled, and when quite
hot, pile on a hot dish and sprinkle over it the 2 yolks of the eggs
which have been passed through a sieve.
This is a good breakfast dish.
PICKLED SALMON
Salmon, 1/2 oz. of whole pepper, 1/2 oz. of whole allspice, 1
teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of vinegar and the
liquor in which the fish was boiled.
After the fish comes from table and the bones have been removed, lay it
in a deep dish. Boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients
for 10 minutes, let them stand to get cold, then pour them over the
salmon, and in 12 hours it will be ready for use.
Meats and Entrées
RUSSIAN PIROG KULBAK
Dissolve in a pint of tepid salted water, 1 yeast-cake mixed with
enough flour to make rather a stiff dough and let it rise until double
its size. Add to this 2 eggs and 1/2 lb. of butter. Knead thoroughly.
Put the paste in a warm place and let it rise again to double its size.
Roll it out about 1/2 inch thick and put in a buttered pie dish; cover
with cold boiled rice, then thin slices of smoked roe or smoked fish;
sprinkle over some pepper and nutmeg. The other half of the dough is
to be lapped over the filling and in giving to the Pirog the form of a
loaf close the edges with the white of an egg. When closed, spread it
over with beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Bake it a light brown.
CARBONADE FLAMANDE
In 1 tablespoonful of good drippings brown 2 lbs. of round steak (or
any good part of the beef). Remove the steak and brown 6 chopped onions
in the same fat. Replace the steak in the casserole, add 1 small clove
of garlic, salt, and pepper. Cover over with 1 or 2 slices of bread
that have been spread with French mustard. Add 1-1/2 cups of water and
cook, closely covered, slowly, 3 or 4 hours. Just before removing from
the oven, add 1 small dessert-spoonful of vinegar and I teaspoonful of
sugar to the gravy.
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL
(French)
Take 3 lbs. of veal, cut it in squares (about 2 inches). As this dish
is supposed to be very white, it is sometimes soaked half an hour in
tepid water. Put the pieces of veal into a saucepan; cover with water;
add a large pinch of salt, let it boil, skim. Add 1 onion stuck with
cloves, 1 carrot cut in half, a cupful of white wine, a bouquet of
laurel thyme, parsley, and cook half an hour. Strain the meat and save
the stock.
With 2 oz. of butter and 2 oz. of flour make a white sauce; moisten it
with veal stock, stir over the fire. The sauce must be perfectly smooth
and not thick. Add the meat without the vegetables, continue to cook
it until the meat is tender. The sauce should be reduced by one half.
Thicken at the last moment with 3 yolks of eggs, 1 oz. of butter, and
the juice of a lemon. Arrange the meat on the dish with the sauce.
This dish is sometimes garnished with small round balls of veal made
of raw minced veal seasoned with salt, and pepper, boiled about 1/2 an
hour with the other veal, and then fried in butter. The balls should be
only as big as marbles.
BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN
(French)
One cold cooked chicken or fowl, 4 fresh mushrooms, the yolks of 2
eggs, 1 pint of chicken broth, salt and pepper to taste. Peel the
mushrooms, cut them into pieces, and simmer in the broth until tender.
Add the chicken sliced into thin delicate pieces. Cook gently until
heated when the beaten yolks of eggs should be stirred in gradually. As
soon as the sauce is smooth and creamy, season with salt and pepper and
a few drops of lemon-juice.
STRACOTTO
Place in a stewpan 5 or 6 lbs. of the round of beef. Cover with water
and allow to simmer until the scum rises. Skim and add a quart of
tomatoes (some people like also a clove of garlic), 5 or 6 onions, some
stalks of celery, 1 or 2 carrots cut in small pieces, salt, and pepper.
Let it cook slowly closely covered about 5 hours. An hour before
serving remove the beef (which is to be placed in a covered dish at the
side of the stove) and strain the gravy.
Cook one cup of rice in this gravy. When the rice is cooked replace the
beef in the stewpan and warm it.
Add 1/2 cup grated cheese and 2 tablespoons of butter to the rice and
pour around the beef on a platter.
DUCK ST. ALBANS
(English)
Roast a fat duck. When cold carve the breast in thin slices. Lay
these carefully aside. Break off the breastbone and cover the carcass
smoothly with the liver farce. Replace the sliced fillets, using a
little of the farce to bind them back into place on the duck. Coat the
whole well with half set aspic jelly.
FARCE.--1 lb. of calf's liver, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 slice of bacon, a
slice of onion, 1 carrot sliced. Fry these carefully and pound in a
mortar. Pass through a wire sieve. Then put in a basin and whisk in 1/2
pint of aspic jelly and a small teacupful of very thick cream. Season
with cayenne pepper and salt. Grapefruit and orange salad is served
with this.
BONED TURKEY
(English)
Bone a raw turkey, spread it flat on a board, season, and cover with
good fresh sausage meat. Lay a well-boiled tongue down the centre
and 2 long strips of fat bacon or ham, almonds, hard-boiled egg,
salt, pepper, and sprinkle over a tablespoonful of brandy. Roll up
carefully, taking care the various strips are not displaced. Tie firmly
in a greased cloth and sew up. Boil gently 2 hours for a large fowl
and 2-1/2 hours for a turkey. When boiled the cloth may need to be
tightened a little. Lay a light weight on the top and when quite cold
glaze with a meat glaze and then a good coating of half set aspic.
Decorate with chopped aspic.
CHICKEN AND CABBAGE
(A dish of Auvergne)
Put about 1/4 of a lb. of salt pork, cut in slices, in the bottom
of a kettle; when a little melted put in a fowl or a chicken or two
partridges stuffed as for roasting. Put in 1 large clove of garlic and
3 large onions sliced, salt and pepper. Dredge with flour, put in a
little water, and cover closely. Dredge and baste the fowl every 15
minutes, adding water each time. Have a cabbage ready cut into four
pieces and put in the kettle 1 hour before the fowl is cooked. A fowl
will take not less than 3 hours and allow 2 hours for a chicken.
LEG-OF-MUTTON PIE
(Canadian)
Butter a pie dish, place in the bottom a few slices of fried salt pork
and then slices of mutton cut from the leg; on top of this, lay slices
of cooked potatoes, season each layer with salt and pepper, minced
parsley and onions fried in butter; pour over some clear gravy. Moisten
the edge of the dish, lay a narrow band of paste, moisten, and cover
the whole with puff-paste, bake in moderate oven 1 hour and 20 minutes.
RUSSIAN STEAKS
Chop 1 lb. of round steak or any good part of the beef, season with
salt and pepper. Add by degrees with a wooden spoon 1/4 lb. of butter.
Roll into fat balls and place in a very hot frying pan. Give 3 minutes
to each side.
Serve with the following sauce: Mix together 2 tablespoonsful of oil
and 1 of butter, 1-1/2 tablespoons of flour, add 2 teaspoonsful of
onion juice, 1 teaspoonful of grated horse-radish, 1/4 teaspoonful of
mixed mustard, salt and pepper, then gradually 1-1/2 cups of stock
(one can use water instead), and cook 3 minutes, then take from the
fire and add 1/4 of a cup of cream and I teaspoonful of lemon-juice.
ANOTHER RUSSIAN METHOD FOR BEEFSTEAKS
Cut the steaks thin, season them with salt and paprika. Colour the
steaks in 2 oz. of butter, but they must not be completely cooked. Chop
up finely 2 onions, place half of the onions in a casserole that can
be sent to table. Arrange the steaks upon it. Sprinkle them with the
remainder of the onions. Throw the gravy from the pan, with stock or
water added, to allow the steaks to be half covered. Cook in the oven
1 or 2 hours in tightly covered casserole. Before serving pour over 1
cupful of sour cream.
STEWED KIDNEYS
(English)
Take away the skin from three lamb kidneys; split them lengthwise in
halves; take out the white nerve from the centre, and cut each half
into small slices. Put 3 ozs. of oil in a pan, colour in it a small
chopped onion, add the sliced kidneys, salt, pepper. Stir with a spoon
briskly over a good fire until all the pieces are equally coloured;
sprinkle with a tablespoonful of flour; mix and stir well. Add a cupful
of wine and one of gravy, stir until boiling. Cook two minutes longer;
taste if well seasoned; at the last add the juice of half a lemon and
chopped parsley.
NOTE.--Mushrooms stewed with the kidneys are an improvement.
CHICKEN
(Serbian)
Put a good slice of salt pork into a saucepan. When it has fried a
little add some chopped parsley root, carrot, onion, and a small clove
of garlic.
Joint the fowl and place it in the pan, add salt and pepper. Cook in
the oven about one hour, then add 3 or 4 peeled tomatoes with the seeds
removed. Continue to add in the pan enough water to baste the fowl
frequently. Cook until the fowl is tender and serve with rice to which
minced cooked ham or bacon has been added. Pour the gravy in the pan
over the chicken.
BAKED HAM
(York fashion)
Soak overnight; in the morning scrub it and trim away any rusty part;
wipe dry; cover the ham with a stiff paste of bread dough an inch
thick and lay upside down in a dripping pan with a little water; allow
in baking 25 minutes to the pound; baste a few times and keep water in
the pan. When a skewer will pierce the thickest part plunge the ham for
1 minute in cold water; remove the crust and outside skin, sprinkle
with brown sugar and fine cracker crumbs, and stick with cloves and
brown in the oven. Serve with a mustard sauce or white wine sauce if
eaten hot.
RILLETTES DE TOURS
(Cretons Canadiens)
Three lbs. shoulder of fresh pork, 3 lbs. cutlets of pork, 1 filet
of pork, 2 pork kidneys, 2 lbs. of kidney fat, 1 pint of water, 3
tablespoons of salt, pepper, and 4 onions minced fine with the pork
fat. Chop the meat into small dice, mince the fat and kidneys very
fine; let all boil gently for 4 hours. About 1/2 hour before removing
from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful of mixed spices and 1/4 lb. fresh
mushrooms cut in large pieces. Line a mould with half-set aspic; when
set, pour in the mixture, pour over more aspic.
This is excellent for a cold supper or can be used as _pâté de foie
gras_, and it may be moulded in buttered dishes without the aspic.
A SERBIAN DISH OF RICE AND MUTTON
Cut 5 onions very fine, and 1/4 lb. of lean salt pork, in thin slices.
Put these into a deep pot to cook until the onions are a golden brown.
Add 2 lbs. of lamb or mutton cut in pieces, add salt, pepper, and 3
pimentos; just cover the meat with water and cook gently about an hour,
then add 1/2 cup of rice; cover tightly and let it stew 20 minutes more.
BAKED EGGS
(Bonhomme)
Put in a basin 2 dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt (or sugar
if preferred); break into it 6 whole eggs; beat them up with a pint of
milk. Pour this into a buttered dish, bake in a moderate oven. When the
eggs have acquired a good colour serve directly. If this dish has been
flavoured with salt send grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese to table
with it.
TRIPE
(Tripe à la Poulette)
Cut in filets or small squares 2 lbs. of tripe well boiled. Chop 1
onion finely; put it in a stew-pan with 1-1/2 ozs. of butter; colour
lightly; mix in a good dessert-spoonful of flour; moisten with stock
and half a glass of white wine to make a thin sauce; season with salt,
pepper, and nutmeg. Add the tripe; cook for an hour; the sauce must be
reduced one-half. At the moment of serving thicken the ragoût with two
yolks of eggs mixed with the juice of a lemon, 1 oz. of fresh butter,
and chopped parsley. Garnish the tripe on the dish with six croûtons of
bread cut in shape of half a heart and fried in butter.
TRIPE
(Italian)
Two pounds of tripe well cooked; cut in thin strips, put them in a
stew-pan with 2 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of chopped mushrooms, salt,
pepper, half a tumblerful of good gravy or stock; cover, and let all
cook until the liquid is entirely reduced. Spread upon a fireproof dish
that has been well buttered, a layer of tripe, a layer of tomato sauce
rather thick; sprinkle each layer with grated cheese; finish with the
tomato. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and bread-crumbs, then
pour over a little butter melted to oil. Put the dish in the oven for
fifteen minutes.
TIMBALE OF PARTRIDGES
(French)
Mince the raw flesh of two partridges, season, cut some truffles in
small squares, ornament with them a buttered timbale-mould, half fill
it with the farce, make a hollow in the centre of it allowing the farce
to cover the sides of the mould to the top. Have ready a small ragoût
of partridges, with slices of foie gras or truffles; the sauce should
be thick, pour it into the empty centre of the mould, cover the whole
with the remainder of the farce, then with a buttered paper. Poach the
timbale in a covered bain-marie for thirty minutes in boiling water.
Turn it upon a dish and pour Madeira sauce round.
STEWED HARE
(Belgian)
After having emptied the hare put aside the liver, carefully separated
from the gall, and the blood in a basin; add to it a few drops of
vinegar to prevent it curdling. Cut the hare into pieces of medium
size; warm 3 ozs. of butter in a stew-pan, add to 1/4 lb. of lean bacon
cut in dice, colour them in the butter, add 3 ozs. of flour, make it
all into a brown thickening, and put in the pieces of hare; moisten
with a bottle of red wine and a quart of stock, salt, and pepper. Stir
without leaving it, with a wooden spoon, until it boils; the sauce
should cover the meat and not be too thick; add a bouquet of herbs, an
onion with cloves in it. Cover the stew-pan and leave it to stew until
the hare is tender. A young hare will take from an hour and a quarter
to an hour and a half, an old one may cook for three hours without
becoming tender. The sauce should by this time be reduced to half;
take out the onion and herbs, taste if sufficiently seasoned; mix the
blood with a teacupful of thick cream, throw over the hare; shake the
stew-pan briskly to allow all to mix well, but it must not boil; at the
last moment add the liver, which has been sliced and sautéd (shaken)
for two minutes in hot butter over the fire. Arrange in an entree dish,
pour the sauce over and garnish round with croûtons of fried bread.
NOTE.--This dish may be rendered more highly flavoured, if desired, by
steeping the pieces of hare for some hours in the following marinade
or pickle: a bottle of red wine, a cupful of vinegar, salt, pepper, a
bouquet of herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves. Leave the hare in
this preparation four or five hours, then when the thickening is made,
put in the hare with this marinade, then the stock, and finish as
above. Small button onions or mushrooms may be added before the hare is
tender; if onions are cooked with it they must be previously boiled
for a few minutes.
INDIAN PILAU
(English)
Six onions, 4 ozs. butter, 2 Indian mangoes, a chicken.
Peel and chop the onions, and put them into a stew-pan with the butter,
and mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredients place the
joints of a chicken previously fried in butter, and let this stew over
a slow fire for about 1 hour. When done arrange the pieces of chicken
on the rice lightly piled in a dish; stir the sauce to mix it, and pour
it over the pilau. Serve very hot.
RICE FOR PILAU.--Wash and parboil for 5 minutes 1/2 lb. of rice, then
drain it free from water; put it into a stew-pan with 2 ozs. of butter,
and stir, over the fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain
a light fawn colour, then add a 1/2 pint of stock, cayenne pepper, and
a very little curry powder; put the lid on the stew-pan, and set the
rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire till done.
Stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains. A few raisins added
are an improvement.
STUFFED BEEF STEAKS
(Sicilian fashion)
Take three-quarters of a pound of beef, two ounces of ham, one
tablespoon of butter, some bread, some parsley, and a piece of onion.
Chop the onion fine and put it in a saucepan with the butter. When it
is coloured, put in the parsley and the ham cut up into little pieces,
at the same time add the bread cut up into three or four small dice,
salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Mix all together well. Cut the meat
into six slices, pound them to flatten out; salt slightly, and when the
other ingredients are cooked, put a portion on each slice of meat. Then
roll up the meat like sausages, put them on skewers, alternating with
a piece of fried bread of the same size. Butter well, roll in fresh
bread-crumbs, and broil on the gridiron over a slow fire.
PODVARAK
(Serbian)
Put in a pan 3 tablespoons of lard; when it is hot add 3 lbs. of
sauerkraut.