[1] The paragraphs quoted are from an article by Mr. François
E. Matthes, of the United States Geological Survey.
The ascent of the mountain should be attempted only by those who have
the necessary endurance and who are able to climb in the rare air of
such an altitude. Unless the tourist is hardened from recent outdoor
life, he should train himself on the peaks of the Tatoosh Range, just
to the south, or on the other summits that are bare of ice. Above all,
no person should ever attempt the ascent unless accompanied by an
experienced guide. There is no record of any person having perished
when accompanied by a guide, but the mountain has taken its deadly
toll from those who dared to make the trip alone.
"The guide is there not merely to show the way, but to tell the
tourist how to climb, how fast to go, when to rest and to take
nourishment, and to take care of him in case he is overcome with
exhaustion or is taken with mountain sickness.
"Finally, account must be taken of the exceeding fickleness of the
weather conditions on the mountain. Only guides familiar with
Rainier's many moods can presume to foretell whether the day will turn
out favorable for a climb or not. What may look to the uninitiated
like harmless, fleecy vapors on the summit may be the forerunners of a
sudden snowstorm which no one could hope to live through. A majority
of those who have perished on the mountain have been overcome by
blizzard-like storms. Such storms may occur even in midsummer, and on
the summit are always attended by fierce gales against which it is
impossible to hold one's footing."
The ascent is generally made from Paradise Park over the rocky ridge
known as Gibraltar. Paradise Park lies near timber-line at an altitude
of 5500 feet; as the altitude of the summit is 14,408 feet, the total
climb is a little over 8900 feet in a distance of about 7 miles. The
start is generally made about 1 o'clock in the morning in order that
the return may be made before dark; it is also advisable to climb
beyond the snow-fields before the surface becomes softened by the sun.
By sunrise one may expect to reach the base of the Cowlitz Cleaver at
an altitude of 10,000 feet.
"The ascent of the Cowlitz Cleaver is quite taxing, being mostly over
rough, angular lava blocks. By 8 o'clock, as a rule, the base of
Gibraltar Rock is reached. A narrow ledge is followed along the face
of the cliff, part of the way overhung by rock masses and huge
icicles, and this ledge leads to the base of a narrow chute between
the ice of the upper Nisqually Glacier and the body of Gibraltar. This
chute offers the most serious difficulties in the ascent. Ropes are
usually suspended from the cliffs, whereby one may assist himself
upward. It is wise to move one at a time, as there is ever danger of
the persons above starting rock débris and ice fragments that may
injure those below. The ascent and descent of the chute are therefore
inevitably time-consuming. Ordinarily the saddle above Gibraltar
(12,679 feet) is not reached until 10 o'clock.
"From Gibraltar on there remains only a long snow-slope to climb, but
this snow-slope is often exceedingly fatiguing. Huge, gaping crevasses
develop in it which must be skillfully avoided by détours. Freshly
fallen snow may be so deep that one plunges into it to the waist, or
else the snow may have melted out into tapering spines and so-called
honeycombs many feet high, among which one cannot travel without
considerable exertion.
"The rim of the south crater is usually reached about 11 o'clock. It
is always bare of snow, and shelter from the high gales may be found
behind the great rock blocks on the crest. Metal cases are left here
in which the tourist may inscribe the record of his ascent.
"The crater is always filled with snow and may be traversed without
risk; only one should be careful near the edges, as the snow there is
melted out in caverns by the steam jets which rise from beneath it in
many places. Those having the strength may go on to Columbia Crest,
the snow dome that constitutes the highest summit of the mountain. The
return to the camp is easily made in from five to six hours."
The climber should wear woolen underwear, flannel shirt,
riding-breeches, leggings or puttees, woolen army socks, stout shoes
well calked, a felt hat, sweater, and short warm coat. Women should by
all means wear riding-breeches, as skirts or bloomers offer too great
resistance to the wind. Women will generally find woolen Boy Scout
stockings best adapted for a trip of this kind; leggings or puttees
may be worn over them as desired. Both women and men should tie their
hats firmly under the chin, in order that the tramper may not be
hampered by the necessity of holding the hat if the wind is strong.
Other things needed, which may be procured at the camp in Paradise
Park, are: alpenstocks, amber glasses, calks, hobnails, and actor's
paint to protect the face from sun-burn.
"Before starting on the ascent, do not eat such articles as fried
eggs, fried potatoes, hot cakes, or heavy pastry. Abstain from coffee
and tobacco, if possible. Spirituous liquor of any kind is taboo,
except as a stimulant in case of collapse. Beef tea, lean meat, all
dry breakfast foods, cocoa, sweet chocolate, crackers, hardtack, dry
bread, rice, raisins, prunes, dates, and tomatoes are in order. The
simpler the diet, on the whole, the more beneficial it is likely to
be. Never eat much at a sitting during the ascent, but eat often and
little at a time. These are rules well known to mountaineers. The more
faithfully one complies with them the higher one's efficiency will be
and the keener the enjoyment of the trip."
Guides to the summit of Mount Rainier will be supplied at the rate of
$10.00 per person in parties of not less than 5 persons, or minimum
charge of $50 for each ascent. An assistant guide will accompany the
party when it consists of more than 8 tourists. There is an additional
charge of $2.50 per person for furnishing complete suits of clothing,
shoes, glasses, alpenstocks, and other necessary equipment.