CHAPTER VI. HERODOTOS IN EGYPT.

From Coptic Christianity, just preparing to confront twelve centuries of

Mohammedan persecution, we must now turn back to Pagan Greece. The Persian

wars have breathed a new life into Greece and its colonies, and given them

a feeling of unity such as they never possessed before. Athens has taken

its place as leader not only in art and literature, but also in war, and

under the shelter of her name the Ionians of Asia Minor have ventured to

defy their Persian lord, and the Ionic dialect has ceased to be an object

of contempt. The Greek, always restless and curious to see and hear “some

new thing,” is now beginning to indulge his tastes at leisure, and to

visit as a tourist the foreign shores of the Mediterranean. Art has leaped

at a single bound to its perfection in the sculptures of Pheidias; poetry

has become divine in the tragedies of Æschylus and Sophocles, and history

is preparing to take part in the general development. The modern world of

Europe is already born.

The founder of literary history—of history, that is to say, which aims at

literary form and interest—was Herodotos of Halikarnassos. If Greek

tradition may be trusted, his uncle had been put to death by Lygdamis, the

despot of the city, and the subsequent expulsion of the tyrant was in some

measure due to the political zeal of the future historian. Herodotos was

wealthy and well educated, as fond of travel as the majority of his

countrymen, and not behind them in curiosity and vanity. He had cultivated

the literary dialect of Ionia, perhaps during his stay in Samos, and had

made good use there of the library of Polykratês, the friend and

correspondent of Amasis. What other libraries he may have consulted we do

not know, but his history shows that he had a considerable acquaintance

with the works of his predecessors, whom he desired to eclipse and

supersede. Hekatæus of Miletus, who had travelled in Egypt as far south as

Thebes, if not Assuan, and had written a full account of the country, its

people and its history, Xanthus, the Lydian, who had compiled the annals

of his native land, beside numberless other authors, historians and

geographers, poets and dramatists, philosophers and physicists, had been

made to contribute to his work. Now and again he refers to the older

historians when he wishes to correct or contradict them; more frequently

he silently incorporates their statements and words without mentioning

them by name. It was thus, we are told by Porphyry, that he “stole” the

accounts given by Hekatæus of the crocodile, the hippopotamus and the

phœnix, and the incorrectness of his description of that marvellous bird,

which, like Hekatæus, he likens to an eagle, proves that the charge is

correct. Reviewers did not exist in his days, nor were marks of quotation

or even footnotes as yet invented, and Herodotos might therefore plead

that, although he quoted freely without acknowledgment, he was not in any

real sense a plagiarist. He only acted like other Greek writers of his

time, and if his plagiarisms exceeded theirs it was only because he had

read more and made a more diligent use of his note-book.

It is we, and not the Greek world for which he wrote, who are the

sufferers. It is frequently difficult, if not impossible, for us to tell

whether Herodotos is speaking from his own experience or quoting from

others, whose trustworthiness is doubtful or whose statements may have

been misunderstood. From time to time internal evidence assures us that we

are dealing, not with Herodotos himself, but with some other writer whose

remarks he has embodied. His commentators have continually argued on the

supposition that, wherever the first person is used, it is Herodotos

himself who is speaking. Statements of his accordingly have been declared

to be true, in spite of the contrary evidence of oriental research,

because, it is urged, he is a trustworthy witness and has reported

honestly what he heard and saw. But if he did not hear and see the

supposed facts, the case is altered and the argument falls to the ground.

Herodotos took part in the foundation of the colony of Thurii in southern

Italy in B.C. 445, and there, rather than at the Olympic festival, as

later legend believed, he read to the assembled Greeks the whole or a part

of his history. His travels in Egypt, therefore, must have already taken

place. Their approximate date, indeed, is fixed by what he tells us about

the battlefield of Paprêmis (iii. 12).

At Paprêmis, for the first time, an Egyptian army defeated the Persian

forces. Its leader was Inarôs the Libyan, and doubtless a large body of

Libyans was enrolled in it. Along with Amyrtæos he had led the Egyptians

to revolt in the fifth year of the reign of Artaxerxes I. (B.C. 460).

Akhæmenes, the satrap of Egypt, was routed and slain, and for six years

Egypt maintained a precarious freedom. The fortresses at Memphis and

Pelusium, however, remained in the hands of the Persians, and in spite of

all the efforts of the Egyptians, they could not be dislodged. Greek aid

accordingly was sought, and the Athenians, still at war with Persia, sent

two hundred ships from Cyprus to the help of the insurgents. The ships

sailed up the Nile as far as Memphis, where the Persian garrison still

held out.

All attempts to oust it proved unavailing, and the approach of a great

Persian army under Megabyzos obliged the Greeks to retreat to the island

of Prosopites. Here they were blockaded for a year and a half; then the

besiegers turned the river aside and marched over its dry bed against the

camp of the allies, which they took by storm. The Greek expedition was

annihilated, and Inarôs fell into the hands of his enemies, who sent him

to Persia and there impaled him. Amyrtæos, however, still maintained

himself in the marshes of the Delta, and in B.C. 449 Kimon sent sixty

ships of the Athenian fleet to assist him in the struggle. But before they

could reach the coast of Egypt news arrived of the death of Kimon, and the

ships returned home. Four years later, if we may trust Philokhorus,

another Egyptian prince, Psammetikhos, who seems to have succeeded

Amyrtæos, sent 72,000 bushels of wheat to Athens in the hope of buying

therewith Athenian help. But it does not appear to have been given, and

Egypt once more sullenly obeyed the Persian rule. We learn from Herodotos

(iii. 15) that “the great king” even allowed Thannyras and Pausiris, the

sons of his inveterate enemies Inarôs and Amyrtæos, to succeed to the

principalities of their fathers.

Paprêmis was visited by Herodotos, and he saw there the sham fight between

the priests at the door of the temple on the occasion of their chief

festival. He also went to the site of the battle-field, and there beheld

“a great marvel.” The skeletons of the combatants lay on separate sides of

the field just as they had fallen, and whereas the skulls of the Persians

were so thin that they could be shattered by a pebble, those of the

Egyptians were thick and strong enough to resist being battered with a

stone. The cause of this difference was explained to him by the dragoman:

the Egyptians shaved their heads from childhood and so hardened the bones

of it against the sun, while the Persians shaded their heads by constantly

wearing caps of thick felt.

Not many years could have elapsed since the battle had occurred. The visit

of the Greek traveller to the scene of it may therefore be laid between

B.C. 455 and 450. The patriots of Egypt must have been still struggling

for their liberty among the marshes of the northern Delta.

But the rebellion must have been practically crushed. No Greek could have

ventured into Persian territory while his countrymen were fighting against

its Persian masters. The army of Megabyzos must have done its work, and

the Athenian fleet been utterly destroyed. Moreover, it is evident that

when Herodotos entered the valley of the Nile the country was at peace.

His references to the war are to a past event, and when he speaks of

Inarôs and Amyrtæos it is of men who have ceased to be a danger to the

foreign government. The passage, indeed, in which he notices the peaceable

appointment of their sons to the principalities of their fathers may have

been inserted after his return to Greek lands, but this makes no

difference as to the main fact. When he came to Egypt it had again lapsed

into tranquil submission to the Persian power.

In B.C. 450, Kimon, the son of Miltiades, had destroyed the naval power of

Persia, and in the following year Megabyzos was overthrown at Salamis. It

was then that the “peace of Kimon” is said to have been concluded between

Athens and the Persian king, which put an end to the long Persian war,

freed the Greek cities of Asia, and made the Mediterranean a Greek sea.

The reality of the peace has been doubted, because there is no allusion to

it in the pages of Thucydides, and it may be that it was never formally

drawn up. But the fact embodied by the story remains: for many years to

come there was truce between Greece and Persia, and the independence of

the Greek colonies in Asia Minor was acknowledged at the Persian court.

The year 449 marks the final triumph of Athens and the beginning of

Persian decline.

Had Herodotos travelled in Egypt a year or two later, the ease and

security with which he did so would be readily explained. But in this case

we should be brought too near the time when his history was finished and

he himself was a resident in Italy. We must therefore believe that he was

there before the final blow had been struck at Persian supremacy in the

Mediterranean, but when the Athenian invasion of Egypt was already a thing

of the past, and the unarmed trader and tourist were once more able to

move freely about.

For more than half a century Egypt had been closed to Greek curiosity.

There had been an earlier period, when the Delta at least had been

well-known to the Hellenic world. The Pharos of the future Alexandria is

already mentioned by Homer (_Od._ iv. 355); it was there, “in front of

Egypt,” that Menelaos moored his ships and forced “Egyptian Prôteus” to

declare to him his homeward road. Even “Egyptian Thebes,” with its hundred

temple-gates, is known both to the _Iliad_ (ix. 381) and to the _Odyssey_

(iv. 126), and the Pharaoh Polybos dwelt there when Alkandra, his wife,

loaded Menelaos with gifts. Greek mercenaries enabled Psammetikhos to

shake off the yoke of Assyria, and Greek traders made Naukratis and Daphnæ

wealthy centres of commerce. Solon visited Egypt while Athens was putting

into practice the laws he had promulgated, and there he heard from the

priest of Sais that, by the side of the unnumbered centuries of Egyptian

culture, the Greeks were but children and their wisdom but the growth of

to-day. Before the Ionic revolt had broken out, while Ionia and Egypt were

still sister provinces of the same Persian empire, Hekatæos of Miletus had

travelled through the valley of the Nile, enjoying advantages for

information which no Greek could possess again till Egypt had become a

Macedonian conquest, and embodying his knowledge and experiences in a

lengthy book.

But the Persian wars had put an end to all this peaceful intercourse

between Greece and the old land of the Pharaohs, and the Karian dragomen

who had made their living by acting as interpreters between the Greeks and

the Egyptians were forced to turn to other work. At length, however, Egypt

was once more open to visitors, and once more, therefore, visitors came

from Greece. Anaxagoras, the philosopher and friend of Periklês, was among

the first to arrive and to investigate the causes of the rise and fall of

the Nile. Hellanikos the historian, too, the older contemporary of

Herodotos, seems to have travelled in Egypt, though doubt has been cast on

the authenticity of the works in which he is supposed to have recorded his

experiences of Egyptian travel. At any rate, Herodotos found a public

fresh and eager to hear what he had to tell them about the dwellers on the

Nile.

Herodotos must have reached Egypt in the summer. When he arrived, the

whole of the Delta was under water. He describes with the vividness of an

eye-witness how its towns appeared above the surface of the water, like

the islands in the Ægean, and how the traveller could sail, not along the

river, but across the plain. At the time of the inundation, he says, all

Egypt “becomes a sea, above which the villages alone show themselves.” The

voyage from Naukratis to Memphis was direct and rapid, and the tourists in

making it passed by the pyramids instead of the apex of the Delta.

In northern Egypt the rise of the Nile begins to be perceptible during the

first few days of July. Criers go about the streets of Cairo announcing

each day how high it has risen, and in the first or second week of August

the ceremony of cutting the Khalîg or Canal of Cairo, and therewith

declaring that the Nile was once more flooding its banks, used to be

observed with great rejoicings. It is, in fact, in August that the land is

first covered with the flood. For another month the height of the water

continues to increase, and then for a short while to remain stationary.

But towards the end of October, when the canals of Upper Egypt are

emptied, there is again another rise, soon followed by a rapid fall. If

the Delta was like a sea when Herodotos saw it, he must have been there

between the beginning of July and the end of October.

These are the limits of the time which he could have spent in the country.

That he did not remain till after the fall of the river and the drying up

of the land is evident from incidental statements in his work. Thus when

he visited the Fayyûm it was like the Delta, a sea of waters, and the

pyramids of Biahmu, which Professor Petrie’s excavations have shown to

have always stood on dry land, as they still do to-day, were seen by him

in the middle of a vast lake. Nowhere, indeed, is there any hint of his

having seen the country in its normal condition. Even his reference to

Kerkosôros, at the apex of the Delta, which every traveller to Memphis had

to pass except at the period of high Nile, is derived from “the Ionian”

writers of a previous generation, not from his own experience. Neither in

going nor in returning was his boat obliged to pass that way. We need not

be surprised, therefore, at finding that the festivals he witnessed in the

Egyptian towns were those which took place in the summer.

Herodotos had not the time to imitate the example of his predecessor

Hekatæos and visit Upper Egypt, nor, indeed, was the summer a fitting

season for doing so. Consequently, while he lavishes his admiration on the

temples and pyramids of the Delta, of Memphis and of the Fayyûm, he has

nothing to say about the still more striking temples of the south.

“Hundred-gated Thebes,” whose fame had already penetrated to the Homeric

Greeks, and whose tombs and colossi led the Greek tourists of the

Macedonian age to scribble upon them their expressions of admiration and

awe, is known to him only by name. The extravagance of his praise is

reserved for the Labyrinth; about the nobler and more majestic buildings

of the capital of Upper Egypt he is absolutely silent. Against the statues

of the Egyptian kings which Hekatæos saw at Thebes, Herodotos can bring

only a smaller number which he saw at Memphis.

The monuments even now contain evidence that, after the age of Hekatæos,

Greek sightseers did not make their way into southern Egypt until the

Macedonian conquest had made travel there easy and safe. At Abu-Simbel in

Nubia and Abydos in Upper Egypt are the records of the Greek mercenaries

of Psammetikhos and their Greek and Karian contemporaries who visited the

oracle of Abydos. But then comes a long blank in the history of Greek

writing in Egypt. With the foundation of Alexander’s empire a new epoch in

it begins. From that time forward the walls of the tombs and temples were

covered with the scrawls of innumerable Greek visitors. At Thebes the

royal tombs were especial objects of attention, and ciceroni led the

inquisitive stranger round them just as they do to-day.

But among all the mass of Greek names that have been collected from the

monuments of Upper Egypt we find neither that of Herodotos nor of any

other of his countrymen of the same age. In fact, it was not a time for

sightseeing in the southern valley of the Nile. The population were in

only half-repressed rebellion against their Persian rulers, and the whole

country swarmed with bandits. Persian authority was necessarily weaker

than in the north, and the people were more combative and had near allies

in the desert, the Bedouin and the Ethiopians. A voyage up the river was

even more dangerous than in the anarchical days of the last century:

pirates abounded, and out of reach of the Persian garrison at Memphis the

traveller carried his life in his hand. As in the time of Norden no

Egyptian bey could or would allow the traveller in Nubia to go south of

Dirr, so in the time of Herodotos the southern limit of the foreigner’s

travels was the Fayyûm. The “Egypt into which Greeks sail” was, as he

himself declares, the Egypt which lay north of the Theban nome and Lake

Mœris.

Even a visit to the Fayyûm was doubtless a bold and unusual undertaking,

and on this account Herodotos describes what he saw there at more than

ordinary length, and extols the wonders of the district at the expense of

the better-known monuments of Memphis and the Delta. But the Oasis had

suffered much from the civil troubles which had afflicted Egypt. The dykes

which kept out the inundation had been neglected, and the fertile nome was

transformed into a stagnant lake. Herodotos saw it as the French _savans_

saw it at the beginning of the present century; the embankments were

broken, and fields and roads were alike submerged.

From the walls of the capital of the province, whose mounds now lie

outside Medînet el-Fayyûm, Herodotos looked northward over a vast expanse

of water. “Nearly in the middle of it,” he tells us, “stand two pyramids,

each of them rising 304 feet above the water ... and both surmounted by

colossal stone figures seated upon a throne.” The shattered fragments of

the colossi were found by Professor Petrie in 1888, scattered round the

pyramidal pedestals, twenty-one feet high, on which they had been placed.

Cut out of hard quartzite sandstone, they represented Amon-em-hat III.,

the creator of the Fayyûm, and their discoverer calculates that they were

each thirty-five feet in height. The fragments are now at Oxford in the

Ashmolean Museum. The statues faced northward, and the court within which

they stood was surrounded by a wall with a gateway of red granite. The

pedestals still remain fairly intact, and the road by the side of which

they had been erected is still used to-day. The monuments, in fact, were

erected high above the inundation, and that Herodotos should have seen

them in the midst of the water is but a further proof of the condition of

the country at the time. The Lake Mœris he describes was not the true

Mœris of Egyptian geography; it was the Fayyûm itself buried beneath the

flood.

The total height of the colossi from the ground, according to Professor

Petrie, was about sixty feet. Between this and the 304 feet assigned to

them by the Greek traveller there is indeed a wide difference. But

Herodotos could not have seen them close at hand, and the measurement he

gives must have been a mere guess. It warns us, however, not to put

overmuch faith in his statements, even when they are the results of

personal observation. He was but a tourist, not a man of science, and he

cared more for the tales of his dragoman and novel sights than for

scientific surveying and exactitude.

Hence comes the assertion that before the time of Menes the whole country

between the sea and Lake Mœris was a marsh. Such a statement is

intelligible only if we remember that, when Herodotos sailed up the Nile,

its banks were inundated on either side. Had he seen the country south of

Memphis as the modern traveller sees it when the water is subsiding and

green fields begin to line the course of the river, he could never have

entertained the belief. But all distinction between the Delta and the rest

of Egypt was hidden from him by the waters of the inundation. That he

should have made the Fayyûm the limit of the marsh is indeed natural; it

was the limit of his exploration of Upper Egypt, and consequently he did

not know that from Memphis southward to Edfu the valley of the Nile

presents the same features.

The strange error he twice commits in imagining that there were vaults

under the pyramid of Kheops in an island formed by a canal which the

builder had introduced from the Nile is due to the same cause. Doubtless

his dragoman had told him something of the kind. A subterraneous chamber

in the rock actually exists under the great pyramid, as was discovered by

Caviglia, and there are pyramids into whose lower chambers the Nile has

long since infiltrated. Professor Maspero found his exploration of the

pyramids of Lisht, south of Dahshûr, stopped by the water which had filled

them, and Professor Petrie had the same experience in the brick pyramid of

Howâra, though here the infiltration of the water seems to have been

caused by a canal dug in Arab times. But the pyramids of Gizeh stand on a

plateau of limestone rock secure against the approach of water, and the

story reported by Herodotos is more probably the result of misapprehension

on his own part than of intentional falsehood on the part of his guides.

His ready credence of it, however, can be explained only by the condition

of the country at the time of his visit. The whole land was covered with

water, and in going to Memphis he had to sail by the pyramids themselves.

It was in a boat that his visit to them must have been made; and it was

easy, therefore, to believe that a canal ran from the water on which he

sailed through the tunnelled rock whereon they stood. He did not know that

the lowest chamber of the pyramid was high above the utmost level of the

flood.

Surprise has often been expressed that Herodotos should make no mention of

the Sphinx, which to Arabs and modern Europeans alike has appeared one of

most noteworthy monuments of Gizeh. But in sailing along the canal which

led from Memphis to the pyramids he would have passed by it without

notice. As his boat made its way to the rocky edge on which the huge

sepulchres of Kheops and Khephren are built, it would have been concealed

from his view; and buried as it was in sand his guides did not think it an

object of such surpassing importance as to lead him to it over the burning

sand. In the immediate neighbourhood of the great pyramid he was

surrounded by monuments more interesting and more striking, which were

quite enough to occupy his day and satisfy his curiosity.

South of the Fayyûm and the adjoining city of Herakleopolis, whose ruins

are now known as Ahnas el-Medîneh, all that Herodotos has to tell us is

derived from older authors. Now and then, it is true, the first person is

used, and we think for a moment that he is describing his own adventures.

But he is merely quoting from others, and there are no marks of quotation

in the manuscript to show us that such is the case. His book is thus like

that of another and later Egyptian traveller, Mr. J. A. St. John, whose

_Egypt and Nubia_ was published in English only fifty years ago. He too

embodies the narratives of his predecessors in the record of his own

journey up the Nile without any notice or signs that he is doing so, and

it is not until we suddenly light on the name of an earlier writer at the

bottom of the page that we become aware of the fact. Herodotos has not

given us even this help; and we need not wonder, therefore, that

commentators who have never been in Egypt have been deceived by his method

of work. But he has preserved fragments of older writers which would

otherwise have been lost, and if he has mingled them with the stories he

heard from the dragomen of Memphis and Sais, or the answers he received to

his questions about Greek legends, we must not feel ungrateful.

Upper Egypt is mentioned only incidentally in his narrative, and, as might

be expected in a writer who had to depend upon others for his information,

what he tells us about it is very frequently incorrect. Thus he asserts

that the hippopotamus was “sacred in the nome of Paprêmis, but nowhere

else in Egypt,” although it was also worshipped in Thebes, and he fancies

that all the cats in the country were embalmed and buried at Bubastis, all

the hawks and mice at Buto, and all the ibises at Hermopolis or Damanhur.

But this was because he had visited these places and had not travelled in

the south. Had he done so, he would never have imagined that the body of

every cat or hawk that died was carried to a distant place in the Delta.

Indeed, in the hot weather of the summer months, anything of the kind

would have been impossible. Cemeteries, however, of these sacred animals

are found all up and down the Nile. The mummies of the sacred cats are to

be met with in the cliffs of Gebel Abu Foda, at Thebes, and above all at

Beni Hassan, where a little to the south of the Speos Artemidos such

quantities of them were recently discovered as to suggest that a

commercial profit might be made out of their bones. Tons of them were

accordingly shipped to Liverpool, there to be converted into manure; but

as it was found that the mummified bones refused to yield to the process,

the exportation ceased. Mummies of the sacred hawks were disinterred in

equal numbers when the ancient cemeteries of Ekhmîm were excavated a few

years ago, and the construction of the canal on the eastern bank opposite

Abutîg has lately brought to light another of their burial-places, thus

fixing the site of Hierakon, “the city of the Hawk,” the capital of the

twelfth nome.

In his geography of the river above the Fayyûm Herodotos was similarly

misinformed. Thus, he avers that “the country above the Fayyûm for the

distance of a three days’ voyage resembles the country below it.” A three

days’ voyage would mean about eighty miles, since he reckons it a voyage

of seven days from the sea to the Fayyûm, a distance of about 190 miles.

Dahabîyeh travellers will willingly assent to the calculation. With a fair

wind, a day’s voyage is about thirty miles, more or less, so that 190

miles could be easily traversed in seven days. Now eighty miles would

bring the visitor from the Fayyûm to Qolosaneh and the Gebel et-Têr. For

many miles before reaching the Gebel the banks of the Nile wear a very

different aspect from that which they present lower down. In place of a

dull monotony of sand-banks and level plains, there are picturesque lines

of cliff, amphitheatres of desert and rugged headlands. It is only as far

as Feshn, twenty miles to the south of Herakleopolis, that the description

of Herodotos is correct. It is, in fact, merely based on what he could see

from the southernmost point to which he attained.

The view which he had from thence over the flat desert reaches of Libya

led him to make another statement equally wide of the truth. It is that

for four days after leaving Heliopolis the valley of the Nile is narrow,

but that then it once more becomes broad. But such was the case only where

the Fayyûm and the province of Beni-Suef spread towards the west, and

there too only when they are covered with the waters of the inundation.

Elsewhere the cultivated valley is for the most part narrower even than in

the neighbourhood of Memphis, where it seemed to the Greek traveller to be

so confined; here and there, indeed, as at Abydos and Thebes, it broadens

out for a space, but otherwise the wilderness encroaches upon it ever more

and more until at Silsilis the barren rocks obliterate it altogether.

Herodotos knows nothing of the great monuments of Thebes, and the Pharaohs

accordingly whose names he records have no connection with the ancient

capital of the empire. They belong to Memphis, to the Fayyûm, and to the

Delta—none of them to Thebes. Even Sesostris, in whom some of the features

of Ramses II. may be detected, reigns in the north rather than in the

south. Of all the multitudinous monuments that he has left, two only are

known to the Greek traveller, and these are the two statues of himself

which stood before the temple of Ptah in Memphis.

Of Thothmes and Amenôphis and the other great monarchs of the eighteenth

dynasty whose memorials were to be found chiefly in the south, Herodotos

had never heard. All that he knew of the kings of Egypt before the age of

Psammetikhos was derived from the stories which his guides attached to the

monuments which he actually saw. Had he visited the temples and tombs of

Thebes and Abydos and Assuan we should have been told how Memnon led his

troops to Troy or how Osymandyas conquered the world. But we have to turn

to others for the dragoman’s tales of Upper Egypt; Herodotos could not

record them, for he was never there. The Fayyûm is the southernmost limit

of his historical knowledge, because it is also the southernmost limit of

his geographical knowledge.

And yet here and there we come across notices of Upper Egypt, some of

which have been written by an eye-witness. But the eye-witness was not

Herodotos himself, and in giving them he generally gives an indication of

the fact. Thus he describes Khemmis or Ekhmîm as “near Neapolis,” the

modern Qeneh, although the distance between the two towns is really

ninety-five miles, a voyage of at least three days, and Neapolis was but

an insignificant city by the side of Khemmis itself, or of other towns

like This and Abydos that were nearer to it. Even Tentyris or Denderah,

with its ancient temple of Hathor opposite Neapolis, was more important

and better-known, while Thebes itself was only forty-five miles higher up

the river.

But the account given by Herodotos of Khemmis and its temple is a mere

product of the imagination. Indeed, he implies that he received it from

certain “people of Khemmis” whom he had questioned, probably through his

interpreter. They told him that the temple, of which a few remains are

still visible, and which was really dedicated to Min or Amon-Khem, was

that of the Greek hero Perseus—a name suggested, it may be, by its

likeness to that of the sacred persea tree. Each year, it was further

alleged, gymnastic games in the Greek fashion were celebrated in honour of

the foreign deity, who at times appeared to his worshippers, leaving

behind him his sandal famous in Greek mythology. But the inventive powers

of the informants of the Greek traveller did not stop here. He further

assures us that the pylon of the temple bore on the summits of its two

towers two images of the deity. The statement is of itself sufficient to

discredit the whole story and to prove that Herodotos could never have

seen the temple with his own eyes. The watch-towers that guarded the

entrance of an Egyptian temple never had, and never could have, images on

their roofs. They were needed for other purposes, and the very idea of

their supporting statues was contrary to the first principles of Egyptian

architecture and religion. It was a conception wholly Greek.

Equally wide of the truth is what Herodotos has to tell us about the First

Cataract. Like other travellers to Egypt before and since he was anxious

to learn something about the sources of the Nile. But neither “the

Egyptians nor the Libyans nor the Greeks” whom he met could give him any

information. Perhaps had he sailed as far as Assuan some of the Ethiopians

who lived there might have been more communicative. At last, however, he

was introduced to one of the sacred scribes in the temple of Neit at

Sais—the only Egyptian priest, in fact, of higher rank, whom he seems to

have conversed with—and the scribe humoured the curiosity of the traveller

to the utmost of his desires, though even Herodotos suspected that he was

being made fun of. However, as in duty bound, he gravely writes down what

he was told. “Two mountains are there with pointed tops, between Syênê, a

city of the Thebais, and Elephantinê, which are called Krôphi and Môphi.

Out of the heart of these mountains flow the sources of the Nile, which

are bottomless, half the water running towards Egypt and the north, while

the other half goes to Ethiopia and the south. That the sources are

bottomless was proved by Psammetikhos, the king of Egypt, for after

letting down into them a rope several hundred thousand fathoms in length,

he did not find the bottom.” Herodotos adds that this was probably because

there were violent eddies in the water which carried the rope away.

Egyptian priests did not, as a rule, know Greek, and they avoided any kind

of intercourse with the “unclean” foreigner. Even to have conversed with

him would have caused pollution. Consequently “the priests” to whom

Herodotos so frequently alludes were merely the “beadles” of the day, who

took the tourist over the temples and showed him the principal objects of

interest. The sacred scribe of Sais was an exception to the general rule.

Since the days of Psammetikhos, Sais had been accustomed to Greek

visitors, and the prejudices against them were less strong there than in

other Egyptian towns. It is quite possible, therefore, that the scribe

whom Herodotos met was acquainted with the Greek language, and that no

dragoman was required to interpret his words.

There is a reason for thinking that such was the case. The story of Krôphi

and Môphi, in spite of the suspicions of Herodotos, is remarkably correct;

even the name of Krôphi has not undergone a greater amount of

transformation than it might have done if Herodotos had written it down

himself from the scribe’s mouth. It is the Egyptian Qerti or Qoriti, “the

two holes” out of which Egyptian mythology supposed Hâpi, the Nile-god, to

emerge at the period of the inundation. The Qerti were at the foot of the

granite peaks of Senem, the island of Bigeh, and of the opposite cliff on

the southern side of the First Cataract. We can almost fix the exact spot

where one of these Qerti was believed to have been. On the western bank of

Philæ, immediately facing Bigeh, is a portal built in the reign of

Hadrian, on the inner north wall of which is a picture of it. We see the

granite blocks of Bigeh piled one upon the other up to the summit of the

island where Mut the divine mother, and Horus the saviour, sit and keep

watch over the waters of the southern Nile. Below is the cavern, encircled

by a guardian serpent, within which the Nile-god is crouched, pouring from

a vase in either hand the waters of the river. Though in certain points

Herodotos has misunderstood his informant, on the whole the story of

Krôphi and Môphi is a fairly accurate page from the volume of Egyptian

mythology. Even the jingling Môphi may be derived from the Egyptian

_moniti_ or “mountains” between which the river ran, though Lauth may be

right in holding that Krôphi is Qer-Hâpi, “the hollow of the Nile,” and

Môphi Mu-Hâpi, “the waters of the Nile.”

But in one point the Greek historian has made a serious mistake. It was

not between Assuan and Elephantinê that the sources of the Nile were

placed, but between Bigeh and the mainland, on the other side of the

Cataract. Between Assuan and Elephantinê there are no “mountains,” only

the channel of the river. In saying therefore that Krôphi and Môphi were

mountains and that they rose between Syênê and Elephantinê, Herodotos

proves beyond all possibility of doubt that he had never been at the spot.

Had he actually visited Assuan the words of the sacred scribe would have

been reported more correctly.

At Elephantinê honours were paid to “the great” god of the Nile, who rose

from his caverns in the neighbourhood. Of this we have been assured by a

mutilated Greek inscription on a large slab of granite which was

discovered by English sappers at Assuan in 1885. It records the endowments

and privileges which were granted to the priests of Elephantinê by the

earlier Ptolemies, and one line of it refers to the places “wherein is the

fountain of the Nile.” But long before the days of the Ptolemies and of

Greek visitors to Egypt, when the First Cataract was the boundary of

Egyptian rule and knowledge, the fountain of the Nile was already placed

immediately beyond it. This infantile belief of Egyptian mythology was

preserved, like so much else of prehistoric antiquity, in the mythology of

later days. In the temple of Redesîyeh, on the road from Edfu to Berenikê,

an inscription relates how Seti I. dug a well in the desert and how the

water gushed up, “as from the depth of the two Qerti of Elephantinê.” Here

the bottomless springs are transferred from Bigeh to Elephantinê, thus

explaining how Herodotos could have been led into his error of supposing

them to be two mountains between Elephantinê and Assuan. Doubtless the

sacred scribe had marked the position of the island of Bigeh by its

relation to the better known island of Elephantinê.

The very name of the city which stood on the southern extremity of

Elephantinê implied that here, in the days of its foundation, was placed

the source of the Egyptian Nile. It was called Qebhu, the city of “fresh

water,” a word represented by the picture of a vase from which water is

flowing. At times the city was also called Abu, but Abu was more correctly

the name of the island on which it stood. Abu, in fact, signified the

island “of elephants,” of which the Greek Elephantinê was but a

translation. In that early age, when it first became known to the

Egyptians, the African elephant must still have existed there.

Herodotos does not seem to have been aware that Elephantinê was an island

as well as a city. Except where he is reporting the words of the sacred

scribe, he always speaks of it as “a city,” sometimes to the exclusion of

the more important Syênê. It is another sign that his voyage up the Nile

did not extend so far.

We need not point out other instances of his ignorance of the country

above the Fayyûm. Those which have been already quoted are enough. The

summer months which he spent in Egypt were more than fully employed in

visiting the wonders of Memphis and the chief cities of the Delta, and in

exploring the Fayyûm. Upper Egypt was closed to him, as it was to the rest

of his countrymen for many a long day.

But we are now able to trace his journey with some degree of exactness. He

must have arrived about the beginning of July at the mouth of the Kanôpic

arm of the Nile—the usual destination of Greek ships—and thus have made

his way by Hermopolis or Damanhur to the Greek capital Naukratis. There he

doubtless hired his Karian dragoman, with whom he sailed away over the

inundated land to Sais. But his expedition to Sais was only an excursion,

from which he returned to continue his voyage in a direct line past

Prosôpitis and the pyramids of Gizeh to Memphis. There he inspected the

great temple of Ptah, whom his countrymen identified with their Hephæstos,

and from thence he went by water to see the pyramids. It was while he was

at Memphis, moreover, that he paid a visit to Heliopolis, with its

university and its temple, of which all that is left to-day is the obelisk

of Usertesen. Next he made his voyage up the Nile, past the brick pyramids

of Dahshûr, to Anysis or Herakleopolis, and from thence to the Fayyûm.

Then he returned to Memphis, and then again passing Heliopolis sailed

northward to Bubastis and Buto. It was now probably that he made

excursions to Paprêmis and Busiris, though our ignorance of the precise

situation of these places unfortunately prevents us from being certain of

the fact. Eventually he found himself at Daphnæ, on the Pelusiac branch of

the Nile. This brought him to Pelusium, where he took ship for Tyre.

The Egypt of the Hebrews and Herodotos · 第 6 / 8 章