KEEPING THE CAR SLEEK
Of course, if one does not care for appearances, and has no pride
in the bright and shiny varnish of the body and in the absence of
rustiness of the top, and thinks because the engine is under the hood
no one will see that it has been neglected, this section will not
particularly interest the reader. But, on the other hand, if these
things count, and the owner understands that true economy consists in
keeping not only the running parts in condition, but everything else at
the top notch of perfection, then he will heed the advice herein.
Just because it does not show to the passer-by, many think that the
appearance of the engine does not count; that it is not essential that
it be kept free of oil, grease, dust, and corrosion of iron and brass.
Get this idea out of the head instanter. It is false and has much to do
with breakdown and wear-out of the motor. The cleaner it is kept the
longer will it run satisfactorily, both as to troubles and to length
of life. One may well err on the side of cleanliness rather than be
somewhat slovenly. The motor ought to be cleaned off on the outside
after any lengthy trip, or after any run when roads are dusty, or oily,
or sandy.
One may be as particular as possible, yet there will be some oil or
grease on the motor exterior. Probably that which lodges upon the
cylinders will, if there is much hill climbing to heat the motor
unduly, make itself visible and smellable—visible in a thin streak of
smoke coming from the hood, and smellable to the point of offensiveness
when that streak of smoke strikes the olfactory nerves. But in most
instances it will remain upon the engine, gradually becoming a gum from
the drying up of the substance and the accretion of dust from the road.
The longer it remains the harder it is to remove it; hence when the
work is done in the garage every time the car comes in, it will take
but a few minutes and slight labor; while if allowed to accumulate, it
may mean hours’ work to get rid of the hard deposit.
Sufficient instruction has been given as to the care of the working
parts of the motor, so that only the exterior need be considered at
this time. Begin at the top. First of all see that the wire terminals
at the spark plugs are free from corrosion and grease. They should
be dry and clean if they are to transmit the current to the plugs.
Usually the wires are carried in a tube to protect them from heat and
grease, but not always. In any event, trace along the wires to see that
oil or grease is not present upon them. Either will rot the rubber
insulation and cause a leak which will affect the ignition. Examine all
the terminals under the hood for the same purpose, and every once in a
while disconnect the wires one by one and scrape the terminals bright,
also the contact point where terminal is fastened. Replace the wires
one by one as you clean them so they will not become disarranged. See
also that there is no oil, grease, or dirt on the spark plugs, for it
might form a sufficient path for current to practically short-circuit
the plug.
Wipe off the top of the cylinders and blow out accumulations of dust
from any recesses where it has collected. If there is thickened or
gummy oil upon the metal, which will not wipe off readily, saturate the
waste or cloth in gasoline at the carburetor drip cock, and it will
loosen up quickly. Gasoline is more convenient, but kerosene will do
the work better, leaving a surface less likely to rust. In the same
way clean the exterior of all the parts of the motor and everything
attached to it. Where the brass shows corrosion, use a cleaning
compound to remove it. Brass may be kept from corroding in wet weather
by coating it with whiting. Several good compounds also are sold for
this purpose. Bright iron parts may be kept from rusting by wiping
them with a rag dampened with a thin oil, which should be wiped off
regularly, and there never should be enough to show.
The fan, fan belt, pulleys, gear casings, and other parts at the front
end collect much dust and should be kept clean. The air holes through
the radiator, also, must be kept free of dust, oil, and asphalt from
oiled roads. In fact every part under the hood needs frequent cleaning.
There are some parts of the chassis and undergear which will not be
readily reached by the hose and water when cleaning the body; therefore
they should first be rubbed off and cleaned of dirt, grease, and
accumulations of asphalt from oiled roads, or mud. Do this while the
space under the car is dry, and if it is done regularly it will not
be difficult to keep this part of the car in order. The parts of the
various rods and rocker shafts, and particularly near the bearings,
should be kept clean.
If one will make a “creeper” from which to work when getting under
the car, it will remove most of the objections which drivers have to
“getting under.” Take a board of twelve inches wide and five feet
long and mount casters which move freely under it. At one end place
an inclined head or shoulder rest a foot long and with four or five
inches’ rise. Then cover the upper side with carpet, padded to make it
comfortable. Lying down upon this, one may move about under the car
in ease and get at all the mechanism readily. It is not only good for
cleaning time, but when inspecting or oiling, or tightening up the
bolts and nuts and bearings which may be reached only from beneath the
car. It also keeps one off a wet floor or ground.
Next take a hose, if one be available, and play it freely all over
the body and running gear, fenders, mud guards, wheels, with care, of
course, that the upholstery be not sprinkled too much. Do a thorough
job with the hose but do not use a powerful stream upon the highly
polished surfaces. It will not only take off dust but loosen up mud,
and the force of the spray will take off fresh accumulations of asphalt
from mud guards and chassis. Then with the hose playing ahead, use a
soft sponge to go over all the parts to remove any remaining dirt
and rinse down with water alone. Next, with cloth and chamois dry the
woodwork and other painted surfaces until they shine.
Where mud and asphalt are dried and refractory, other means must be
taken to remove them before rinsing and drying. Mud may be softened by
holding a saturated sponge over it for a few moments. If the mud be
mixed with oil or grease so that water does not soften it, kerosene
will, and it does not take much of it. Kerosene also will soften the
asphalt which clings to the car. Grease and oil also yield to kerosene,
which should be wiped off and the painted parts polished with a
cloth dampened with linseed oil. Naturally this should be wiped off
completely so that it would not become a dust catcher.
Do not use soap on the highly polished surfaces of the body. Most
soaps have free alkali—lye—in their composition, and while this makes
them cut dirt and grease fast, it injures the varnished surface, in
a short time wearing off the gloss. Washing is the better done when
the hose only is used. In the country, where a hose is not available,
the washing will be slower, since the water in a pail must be renewed
frequently and the sponge rinsed practically every stroke to rid it of
grit. Where it is possible to run a line from tank to the garage, or,
if there is no tank, from an elevated barrel, which can be filled with
a force pump, it should be done.
There are various preparations sold for renewing the surface of auto
bodies after it begins to dull. Good gloss should last a year with
care, especially if it be wiped over occasionally with a soft cloth
dampened with a mixture of linseed oil and a little high-grade carriage
varnish—a half pint to the gallon of oil. As there is a wide variation
in both ingredients, if the mixture seems sticky when rubbed between
the fingers or when applied to the car surface, add considerably more
oil, as it is not intended as a new covering for the paint, but to
freshen up the varnish.
Mohair tops need to be dusted with a moist sponge, using also soapsuds
if spotted with oil or grease. Leather and its imitations may be kept
in good condition if oiled occasionally or treated with one of the good
preparations sold. The top should be dried before folding down. After
driving through a shower let the top stay up until sun and wind have
dried it thoroughly. Care in folding will lengthen the life of the top.
Freedom from cracks and creases will mean a dry top, to insure which is
worth any amount of trouble.
Keeping the car covered when in the garage pays, for dust will blow in
and settle over all parts. The upholstery also may be protected by slip
covers, which should be kept on during dusty trips, and be washed when
dirty. Leather cushions should be freshened the same as the top.
The man who has cared for a fine carriage will know what to do with
similar parts of the automobile; others should learn how to care for
them, and understand that varnished and polished surfaces will become
dulled if the car is stored in a stable, or adjacent to stable or
barnyard. If a barn is converted into a garage, it should be thoroughly
renovated and fitted with a cement floor sloping to the center, with
a drain leading outside, so that the car may be washed there and the
water run off through the drain.
In fact the owner of a car may find something to do all the time for
convenience and comfort. If he arranges things conveniently he will not
only save time but will be able to do better work, and will have the
satisfaction of knowing that he is keeping down expense and getting the
most out of his machine for the expenditure.