DRIVING THE CAR
It takes more than a knowledge of certain small levers and pedals
and a deftness in manipulating clutch and brakes and gear shifts and
steering wheel, to make an automobile driver. Because of this fact the
Automobile School of the West Side Young Men’s Christian Association,
in New York City, has formulated a set of instructions to its students
for the road lessons, which are about the most complete, yet concise,
so far published. They are copyrighted and published by permission. It
may emphasize the foregoing chapter to first quote the introductory
paragraph which otherwise would have been omitted.
The following applies particularly to the cars used in the school.
Slight variations may be found on other machines, so it is well to get
an instruction book from the manufacturers of the car you expect to
operate and follow their instructions closely.
=Before Leaving the Garage=—See that there is sufficient gasoline and
oil in the tanks to carry you the distance you wish to go. Examine
the radiator or tank to see that it is full of water. Have sufficient
air in the tires. All grease cups should be filled and turned down
properly. If batteries only are used, two should be carried, and one
of them fully charged. If you are carrying only one battery, be sure
that it is sufficiently charged to make the desired run. Have on the
car at least one extra shoe and three extra tubes, with the ordinary
equipment of tire pump, jack, oil gun, tire tools, tire patches and
cement, and the regular kit of other tools. A set of non-skid chains
will be found very useful on wet days; in fact it is not safe to run
without them on wet asphalt. They should not be used however any more
than is necessary, as they wear the tires excessively. A couple of
extra spark plugs should be carried to save the trouble of cleaning a
short circuited one on the road.
=Starting Crank=—In a gasoline automobile, it is found that the motor
must draw a supply of gas into the cylinder and compress it before
this charge can be ignited to expand and give power. It is therefore
necessary to have some means of turning the engine over to accomplish
this. The starting crank placed usually on the front of the machine,
just in front of the radiator and between the front spring horns, is
for this purpose. It is operated, as a rule, with the right hand, and
is rotated clockwise (the direction the hands of a clock travel). When
there is a self-starter provided, the starting crank is carried in the
tool box, and is used only when the starter will not operate.
=Starting Pedal=—The starting pedal or button may generally be found
somewhere on the floor board. Pressing on it connects an electric
motor to the crank shaft of the engine and closes a switch that allows
current from the storage battery to flow to the motor and crank the
engine. This takes the place of the hand-starting crank.
=Clutch Pedal=—It is quite often desirable to run the engine without
moving the car, and it will also be found necessary at times to
bring into mesh different gears so that more power or speed may be
obtained. A clutch is, therefore, placed between the engine and the
rear wheels. It is controlled by means of a pedal placed just back
of the dash. The clutch is released by pressing on this pedal with
the left foot, and when released the engine will continue to run, but
will not deliver power to the driving wheels. When the pressure of the
left foot is released from the pedal, the clutch will become engaged
automatically by means of a stiff spring and the car will move forward
or backward, according to which gears are in mesh. If the gears are in
the neutral position, however, power will not be applied to the car
when the clutch is engaged. The clutch must be released every time the
gear-shifting lever is moved and whenever the brake is applied.
Remember, it is =depressing= or =pushing= this pedal that overcomes
the tension of the spring and =releases= the clutch, and when no
pressure is applied to the pedal, the clutch is =engaged=.
=The Running-Brake Pedal=—The running brake is used for bringing the
car to a standstill. It is operated by means of a pedal placed just
back of the dash and to the right of the clutch pedal. To apply the
brake, first release the clutch by pushing on the clutch pedal, then
push down or forward on the brake pedal with the right foot gently
but firmly until the car is stopped. After removing the foot from the
brake pedal the brake will be released automatically by means of a
spring. Use the brake gently to save discomfort to the passengers,
wear on tires and the machine in general. Do not run close to the
point where the stop is to be made and then jam the brake on hard, but
begin to apply it early and bring the car to a standstill gradually.
=The Emergency-Brake Lever=—The emergency brakes are used chiefly
after the car has been stopped and the operator wishes to leave it.
They are applied by means of a lever operated by the right hand. This
lever is usually placed just forward and to the right of the driver’s
seat. It is fitted with a spring latch and when applied will lock on,
and so is very convenient in stopping on a hill or when the car is
left standing at the curb. The brake is applied by pulling back the
lever. This brake can be used alone or in connection with the running
brake for quick stops when necessary, but it should not be used for
ordinary stopping as it is usually not designed for such work.
=Gear-Shifting Lever=—This lever is usually placed forward and to the
right of the operator’s seat, and to the left of the emergency-brake
lever. It is operated with the right hand. By shifting this lever
which engages different sets of gears, the machine may be made to go
forward at different speeds while the engine turns at a practically
uniform speed. It also controls the reverse gear. When the car is
standing, the lever should be left in neutral position. When in this
position, even if the clutch is engaged, the machine will not move. To
start the car, release emergency brake, release the clutch with left
foot, grasp the gear-shifting lever with the right hand and shift from
the neutral position to the first speed notch, accelerate slightly,
then allow the clutch to engage slowly and the car will start. After
the car has started, release the clutch again and shift the gear lever
to the second speed notch and engage the clutch quickly but gently.
Repeat this operation for third and fourth speeds. =Always release
clutch when shifting this lever.= Whenever the car is brought to a
standstill, put the lever in the neutral position before applying
emergency brake.
=Accelerator Pedal=—This pedal operates the throttle on the carburetor
and regulates the amount of gas going to the engine and thus controls
the power which the motor develops. It is sometimes placed between the
clutch and brake pedals, but usually to the right of the brake pedal
and is operated by the right foot. More gas is permitted to enter the
cylinders and therefore more power is obtained by pressing on it, and
when released the throttle will be returned to its minimum position
by means of a spring. Push on the pedal very slowly, for a slight
movement greatly increases the power developed by the motor and a too
sudden application of power will strain the whole machine. It should
be pushed slightly when the clutch is engaged to increase the power
of the motor, and should be released when the clutch is disengaged,
so that the engine will not race. =The Throttle Lever=—This lever
controls the throttle on the carburetor the same as the accelerator
pedal but it has a spring latch, and when it is desirable to run the
machine for some distance at a nearly constant speed, this lever may
be used as it will stay where placed, thus relieving the right foot
which would become tired of holding the accelerator pedal in one
position for a long time. It is usually placed on the steering post
above the steering wheel and is operated with the right hand. =Do not
advance throttle lever too quickly.=
=The Spark-Control Lever=—It takes some time after the spark occurs
for the gas to get thoroughly ignited and give power. It is therefore
desirable to have the spark occur earlier when the engine is running
fast, so that the gas may be thoroughly ignited at the beginning
and deliver power for full length of the working stroke. This means
that the spark when advanced actually occurs when the piston is
still traveling up on the compression stroke and so gets the gas in
the cylinder at its maximum pressure when the crank passes top dead
center. When the motor is cranked in starting it is turned so slowly
that to avoid a kick back the spark must be retarded so that it occurs
after the crank has passed top dead center. The spark-control lever is
connected with the spark-timing device, and so controls the time at
which the spark occurs in the cylinder. It is usually placed on the
steering column above the steering wheel, and is operated with the
right hand. On some cars it is moved forward and on others backward to
advance the spark. When the engine is cranked in starting, the spark
should be fully retarded. After the motor has started it can usually
be advanced about two-thirds, but there is no set rule for this. In
general, advance as the motor (not the car) gains speed and retard as
it slackens speed. Keep the spark advanced as far as possible at all
times but retard it if the engine labors or knocks.
=Ignition Switch=—Usually placed on the dash. It is for the purpose
of closing and opening the electric circuit and thus stopping the
motor or allowing it to be started. It is generally provided with a
removable plug or a key so that the car may be safely left at the
curb. Be sure that switch is in “Off” position when the motor is
stopped.
=Steering Wheel=—The steering wheel is usually placed on the left-hand
side of the car directly in front of the operator’s seat. By its means
the direction of the car is controlled. When moving forward, turning
the wheel counter clockwise will cause the car to go to the left and
turning it clockwise will cause the car to go to the right. It should
be operated with the left hand only unless steering is very hard, when
both hands may be used. Grasp the wheel firmly with one or both hands
but not with a strong, nervous grip, as this becomes very tiresome.
If the hand is kept always in one position on the wheel when only
slight turns are desired, there will be no difficulty in knowing by
its position when the front wheels are pointing straight ahead. When
turning corners the position of the hand on the wheel may be changed
and both hands should be used. Do not attempt to turn the steering
wheel when the car is not moving as this throws a very great and
entirely needless strain on the whole steering mechanism.
=Priming Device or “Choke”=—When the engine is cranked in starting,
it is turned so slowly that the air going in through the carburetor
has not sufficient velocity to draw the required amount of gasoline
from the spray nozzle. The mixture that goes into the cylinder is
therefore weak and cannot be exploded easily. To enrich the mixture,
a valve is placed in the carburetor air passage, to choke off the
air and feed more gasoline to the motor. This valve is operated by a
lever or button usually found on the dash or attached to the steering
column under the steering wheel. It is often combined with a device
for making the mixture richer or leaner to take care of different
weather conditions. Some engines will start nearly every time without
priming the carburetor; others must be primed every time the engine is
started. Do not prime to excess; as soon as the engine starts, return
the lever or button to the running position.
=The Gasoline Tank=—The gasoline tank carries the fuel that is to be
fed to the engine. It will sometimes be found under the front seats,
and may be filled by removing the cushion. In this system the gasoline
flows by gravity to the carburetor and a small hole about the size of
a pin will be found in the filler cap to allow the air to enter as the
gasoline leaves. This hole should be kept clean, because if the air
cannot enter the gasoline will stop flowing to the carburetor and the
engine will stop running. Some cars carry the gasoline tank on the
rear of the chassis under the body and air pressure is kept on the
gasoline to force it to the carburetor. This pressure is obtained by
a hand pump placed on the dash, and is kept constant automatically.
This system differs from all others in that there should be no hole in
the filler cap of the tank and the gasket on the cap should be kept in
good condition to prevent air leakage. A gauge will be found on the
dash and by this means the pressure on the tank can be determined.
Other cars with the tank under the rear end of the chassis have a
system of drawing the gasoline by means of a vacuum, to a small tank
located by the carburetor under the hood, from which it flows into the
carburetor by gravity. Still other cars have a gasoline tank in the
cowl of the dash from which the gasoline flows to the carburetor by
gravity.
=The Lubricator=—The lubricating system is generally built into the
crank case of the engine. The oil is supplied through a pipe or other
opening found on the engine and a gauge or pet cock is provided
to indicate the amount of oil in the motor. The system should be
kept filled with a light to medium high-grade gas-engine oil. The
lubricating system usually oils all internal parts of the engine only,
the transmission, steering and differential gears being lubricated by
heavy oil or grease placed in their respective housings, and all other
parts of the car are taken care of by oil or grease cups. Any oil put
into the engine should be carefully strained to remove dirt or grit.
=The Water Tank=—The water tank or radiator is placed on the front of
the car and should be kept filled with clear water. Any sediment that
is allowed to enter the radiator will clog it and the engine will then
overheat. During the winter it is well to fill the radiator with some
anti-freezing solution. Alcohol is good for this purpose, mixed with
water in the following proportions as desired.
2 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 0° Fahr.
2-1/2 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 10° below
3 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 20° below
4 pints wood alcohol to 1 gallon water freezes at 38° below
If steam is discharged from the radiator, examine the fan directly
back of it and the water pump, and see that there is no clog in the
pipes leading to and from it.
=Tires=—Keep the tires free from oil and grease as they rot the
rubber. Drive very carefully in wet weather because rubber cuts very
easily when wet. Drive slowly around corners and start and stop
without jerks; also be very careful not to rub the tires against the
curb. Have all small cuts vulcanized so that moisture cannot get in
and rot the fabric. Do not run on a flat tire unless it has been
damaged beyond repair. Run slowly on the rim or wrap rope around it
if no other tire is to be had. It is very important to keep the tires
fully inflated at all times. If tires do not give satisfactory wear
report it to the manufacturer at once. When the car is to be laid up
for some time, place jacks under it to keep the weight off the tires.
=To Start the Motor=—Place the gear-shifting lever in the neutral
position, put the emergency brake on, retard the spark fully or if
well acquainted with the motor, to a point where the spark will surely
occur after the crank has passed top center. Open throttle about
one-third. (After getting acquainted with the machine you will find a
position for the throttle where the motor starts best.)
Put the switch in “On” position. If the motor habitually starts hard,
prime the carburetor with choking or enriching lever. If car is
equipped with electric self-starter, press hard on starting button or
pedal. When the engine starts, remove foot from pedal immediately,
then close throttle and advance spark lever two-thirds. In cranking
the motor by hand, grasp some part of the car with the left hand
to steady yourself, place the feet wide apart, and stand close to
the front of the machine. Grasp the starting crank with the right
hand having it at its lowest position, or a little to the right of
this point. Push the crank in as far as it will go and turn slowly
clockwise until it engages the crank shaft. It will usually catch when
about at its lowest position. When engaged, brace yourself firmly
and pull up quickly on crank, turning it about one-half revolution.
If after repeating this operation several times the engine does
not start, it may be found necessary to spin the motor. This means
cranking for a full revolution or more. In spinning the motor, care
should be taken to always start with an up pull so as to gain momentum
for the down thrust and so reduce the danger of a kick back to a
minimum. After the engine starts, advance the spark about two-thirds
and close the throttle. If the engine has been started on the battery
and a magneto is used, switch immediately from the battery to magneto.
Do not allow the motor to race. When running idle, it should turn over
at its slowest speed.
=To Start the Car=—Take your place in the driver’s seat, place left
foot on clutch pedal, and press hard to release the clutch. Keep it
disengaged while with the right hand the emergency brake is released
and gear lever is shifted from neutral to the first speed notch. Then
with the right foot press the accelerator pedal gently until the motor
speed is increased a little and at the same time with the left foot
allow the clutch pedal to come back, until the clutch starts to engage
and the car begins to move. From this point decrease the pressure on
the clutch pedal very gradually until the clutch is fully engaged,
at the same time listening to the engine to see that it doesn’t
slow down sufficiently to stall. If it shows signs of stalling,
press accelerator pedal a little more to increase its speed, at the
same time keeping a slightly greater pressure on the clutch pedal.
Stalling the motor is the result of feeding too little gas with the
accelerator, or of not keeping pressure on the clutch pedal during
the time the clutch is engaging. The jerking of the car comes from
feeding too much gas and engaging the clutch too suddenly. Both of
these faults may be overcome by listening to the speed of the engine
and keeping it right through the proper use of the accelerator pedal,
and by releasing the pressure of the foot from the clutch pedal very
gradually from the time it starts to engage until it is fully engaged.
It is impossible to become a good driver until the ear learns to judge
the speed of the motor by its sound and the left foot learns to engage
the clutch gradually. When the clutch has become fully engaged, press
accelerator pedal slightly to speed up the machine. As soon as it has
attained fair momentum, release the clutch and at the same time let
up on the accelerator pedal. Change gear lever immediately from first
speed notch to second speed notch and let in the clutch quickly until
you feel it take hold and then gradually, at the same time pressing
slightly on the accelerator pedal. _When the clutch pedal is pushed
out, the accelerator pedal should be released; when the clutch is let
in, the accelerator pedal should be pressed slightly._ Change from
second to third and from third to fourth if four speeds are employed,
always releasing clutch when gear is shifted, and always accelerating
slightly while the clutch is being engaged.
Do not forget that the clutch is released when the clutch pedal is
pushed out, and that it is engaged when the pedal is allowed to come
back. Run on the high-speed gear as much as possible, and when it
is necessary to drive more slowly release the clutch and apply the
brake gently until the car is brought to the desired speed. Then if
the speed of the machine is low enough to warrant it, release the
brake and, with the clutch still disengaged, change from the high
to the next lower speed notch and let in the clutch. If the car has
lost much momentum it may be necessary to change to the lowest gear
before letting in the clutch, otherwise the engine may be stalled.
Do not drive too close to other vehicles or objects before releasing
the clutch and applying the brakes as the brakes may not hold as
well as you think and you may not be able to operate them correctly
when in close quarters. If while the machine is standing it is found
impossible to move the gear lever from neutral to first or reverse,
leave the lever in neutral, allow the clutch to engage slightly, then
release it quickly and shift lever to desired notch.
=To Stop the Car=—Select a lamp-post, tree, or other object along
the curb, and when still some distance from it, disengage the clutch
and apply the brake gently and get the car under control so that you
can, if you wish, stop ten feet before the object is reached. Then,
releasing the brake pressure slightly, allow the car to drift to the
object, stopping with the rear door directly opposite the object and
the car close enough to the curb to allow passengers to alight on the
sidewalk. Shift gears to neutral, apply emergency brake, and allow
clutch to engage. Be careful that the tires do not scrape along the
curb as this is very damaging. The brake should be applied so that the
car is not brought up with a jerk. This can be accomplished easily
with a little practice, as can also starting of the car. Remember that
you are driving for the comfort of the passengers, and they can feel
the jerks and jar much more than you.
=To Reverse the Car=—Bring it to a standstill first, then with the
clutch released place the gear lever in the reverse notch. Allow the
clutch to engage gently with the left hand only on the steering wheel,
look backward and gauge the direction by the rear end of the car. Do
not attempt to steer by watching the front wheels; always look to the
rear when going backward, to make sure the way is clear.
=Turning in Narrow Streets=—With the car moving slowly, first look
back to see that there is no other vehicle coming and then turn the
wheels sharply to the left as far as possible. When within five feet
more or less, depending upon the speed of the car, of the left-hand
curb, release the clutch and apply the brake gently, at the same time
turning the steering wheel quickly to the right. Stop turning the
wheel when the car is brought to a standstill. With the clutch still
released and the brake on, shift to the reverse gear. Then release
the brake; accelerate slightly, let the clutch in carefully, and
when the car starts to move continue turning the wheel to the right
or clockwise. This will point the car in the opposite direction.
When going backward look toward the back of the car and also up and
down the street to see that no other vehicle is approaching. After
the car has traveled back a sufficient distance, release the clutch,
take foot off of accelerator pedal and apply brake, at the same time
turning steering wheel to the left until the car stops. Then with the
clutch still released and the brake still on, shift from reverse gear
to first speed gear. Take right foot from brake pedal and accelerate
slightly, allowing clutch to engage gradually, and as soon as the car
starts to move, continue turning steering wheel to the left until the
car goes straight ahead. Do not turn the steering wheel while the car
is standing. Start to turn when the car begins to move. Do not allow
tires to strike curb.
=Turning Corners=—Before turning a corner hold out the hand so that
any driver behind you may see it, and also look back to make sure
that he does see it. If another vehicle is close behind you or if
there is one in front coming toward you, slow up your car and wait
until it has passed before turning. When turning a corner to the right
keep as close to the curb as possible so that the car will be on the
right-hand side when you get into the side street. When turning to the
left go past the center of the street into which you are traveling and
then turn sharply, so that you will be on the right-hand side of the
road. Do not cut close to the left curb. Always go around a corner at
a low enough speed to make the use of the second speed gear necessary,
and reduce speed so that the gear shifting must be done before
starting to turn, not after, as this gives better control of the car.
Turning corners at a high rate of speed puts a great strain on the
tires and causes them to wear excessively. It is also uncomfortable
for the passengers. Use both hands on the steering wheel, and if the
car is found to be going too fast check it by releasing the clutch and
applying the brake slightly. Do not shift gears before slowing the
car. The idea is to slow the car sufficiently to make shifting to a
lower gear necessary.
=Climbing Hills=—When approaching a hill accelerate and advance the
spark, as speeding up the motor makes it more powerful and adding
momentum to the car will often carry it over hills that would need an
intermediate speed gear if an attempt is made to climb them slowly.
As the hill is reached, open the throttle fully. If the engine begins
to feel the grade and labors or knocks, retard the spark until the
knocking or laboring ceases. If the hill is a very steep one, as
soon as the engine begins to lose speed, release the clutch, remove
pressure from accelerator and, without applying the brake, shift to
a lower speed gear. Let clutch in quickly and at the same time open
accelerator wide. It will then probably be found that the spark can
be advanced without causing the engine to knock. On some hills it
may be found necessary to shift to the first speed gear, but this
should not be done unless the engine will not pull the car on a
higher gear. When gears are shifted on a hill the change must be made
quickly and the clutch let in immediately, as slow work will allow
the car to lose momentum, and then when the clutch is engaged the
engine will stall. If the engine stalls, put on the emergency brake
and put gear lever in neutral notch. It will be well to place a stone
or block back of the rear wheels before cranking the motor as the
vibration of the engine may jar the emergency lever loose. In starting
again, release the clutch, put lever in first speed gear, accelerate
strongly, release the emergency brake and at the same time let the
clutch engage. This must be done quickly, otherwise the car will start
to back down the hill. With some cars it may be found easier when
starting from a standstill on a steep hill, to apply the foot brake,
release the emergency brake, engage the clutch while the foot brake is
released gradually, at the same time feeding gas to the engine with
the hand throttle. Do not attempt to climb steep hills until you have
thoroughly mastered shifting gears on the level.
=Descending Hills=—When descending slight grades throw off the
ignition switch and leave the gear lever in high speed with the clutch
engaged. This will cause the engine to act as a slight brake and if
necessary the running brake may be operated in connection with it.
There is no harm in applying the brake under these conditions with the
clutch engaged, because switching off the ignition causes the engine
to stop giving power. When a very steep grade is encountered, before
attempting to descend it, stop the car and shift to second or first
speed gear. The lower the gear used the greater will be the braking
power, and when first speed is used it is almost impossible for the
car to get beyond control. The ignition may be switched off or on as
the occasion requires. Switching it off gives greater braking power.
The clutch must be left engaged, and the brakes may be used to help.
It is well to use first one brake and then the other in descending
long grades, as too long an application of one will cause it to heat
and burn the friction material. Do not wait until you are half way
down the hill before finding out that it is too steep for the brakes
to hold the car. Make up your mind before starting to descend and
shift to first gear if necessary. Do not allow the brakes to get in
such condition that they will not hold to the best of their ability.
Never descend the hill at a high rate of speed no matter how safe it
looks. Brakes do not hold as well when the car is going fast as they
do when it is moving slowly, nor will they stop a car as quickly going
down a grade as they will going up.
=Driving in Congested Streets=—Procure a copy of the rules of the
road of the city in which you are driving and obey them. Keep to the
right-hand curb unless it is lined with standing vehicles, in which
case keep close to them. In overtaking another vehicle, pass it on its
left. In passing a vehicle coming in the opposite direction go to the
right of it. When stopping, the wheels must be within six inches of
the curb. Before stopping, hold your hand out at the side of the car
to warn the man who may be behind you. Do not at any time slow down
or stop without holding out your hand and looking back to make sure
that it is seen. Pedestrians have the right of way at crossings, but
you may warn them of your approach by blowing the horn. However, do
not make a nuisance of yourself by using it more than necessary. When
traveling in a side street, upon coming to a main thoroughfare slow
up so that you can stop quickly, as vehicles on these streets have
the right of way. When on a main thoroughfare it is not necessary
to slow up at every cross street. Watch the traffic policeman, and
when one holds up his hand, stop; first holding out your hand to
warn anyone behind you. Remain standing until the policeman motions
you to proceed. In some places the policemen use whistles instead of
motions, and the signals used by them should be learned. Whenever it
is necessary to reduce the speed of the car considerably, release the
clutch and apply the brake. When the car is going slow enough, shift
to a lower speed gear to prevent stalling the motor when the clutch
is let in. When it is found necessary to keep behind a slow moving
vehicle, shift to a speed so low that it will not be necessary to slip
the clutch. If it is desirable to go slower than first speed gear,
however, the clutch may be slipped by keeping a slight pressure on
that clutch pedal. A great variation in speed may be obtained when in
any gear by the proper manipulation of the spark and throttle levers.
Do not attempt to keep pace with other vehicles until you are an
experienced driver. When in close quarters, perform every operation
slowly as a move made slowly but surely will probably take less
time than a move made incorrectly. There is no occasion for getting
excited, as it is safe to assume that every other vehicle is under
perfect control. _Learn to shift gears without looking at the lever,
because you will need your eyes to watch the road._ Sit straight in
the seat: do not get hunched over the steering wheel as this indicates
a novice. Always drive into the garage on the first speed gear.
=Washing the Car=—The car should be washed immediately upon coming
into the garage, before the mud has had time to dry. Do not scour
off the mud as this scratches the varnish. Use the hose with a slow
stream until the mud is well loosened, and then finish by soaking (not
rubbing) off with a sponge well wet with water. Where a hose is not
procurable the mud may be loosened with a wet sponge and then washed
off entirely by throwing pails of water on it. Be careful that water
does not go through the radiator or any other opening and get on the
engine, as this is likely to short circuit the magneto or spark plugs
and prevent the motor from running. If there is grease on the car,
soap must be used to remove it. Castile soap is the best for this
purpose. However, do not apply the soap itself to the car, but make
suds in lukewarm water. After all mud and grease has been removed,
wipe dry with a chamois skin. Wash and dry the body before the running
gear, and be careful that no grease is collected on chamois from wheel
bearings and steering-arm joints.
=Cautions=—Don’t twist the steering wheel when the car is standing.
Corners should be turned at slow speed to save wear on tires. The
brakes should not be applied with too much force except in an
emergency, as it is hard on tires and the machine in general. Don’t
let the motor labor or knock when ascending hills. When going down
long hills use one set of brakes and then the other. Shift to first
speed gear before descending steep hills. Change from first speed to
reverse and from reverse to first only when the car is standing. Be
very careful of skidding on wet pavements. Put non-skid chains on for
wet or icy roads. Always start and stop the car without a jerk. This
constitutes good driving. Don’t forget to see that the license pad is
attached before leaving the garage. Inspect oil, gasoline, and water
tanks before making a trip and see that the necessary tools and extra
tires are in the car. Don’t let the car stand with the motor stopped
in the winter time, unless the radiator is filled with anti-freezing
solution. Look the car over thoroughly after each run.
The records of the examinations held at the school show that there
are a few points of driving which a large majority of the students do
not entirely master. This is not due to lack of instruction in the
subjects, but is rather the result of poor memory or insufficient
practice. Failure to perform these operations perfectly does not
necessarily mean that the student is not a safe driver, but it does
show that he needs more practice before being rated as an expert.
If you want to be a little better than the average driver, keep in
mind the following points, go back and read them over again in this
booklet, think about them when driving the car and try your best to
master them.
When about to turn a corner, or turn in a street, or in fact whenever
swerving from a straight line, look back to see if it is safe to make
the turn, and hold out your hand to signal what you intend to do.
Make sure that the spark is retarded, the gear lever is in neutral,
switch on, and other levers in their proper positions before cranking
the engine.
When the car has been slowed down to a very low speed for any reason,
shift to a lower gear; don’t try to pick up speed on high gear.
Don’t shift to a lower gear until the car speed has been reduced
sufficiently.
In New York City, traffic traveling north and south has the right of
way, therefore when crossing an avenue go slowly and make sure you
will not cut off vehicles on the avenue.
When starting the car, allow the clutch pedal to come back until the
clutch begins to engage, then keep enough pressure on the pedal to
allow it to become fully engaged very gradually. Letting the clutch
engage all at once makes the car jump or the engine stall, and
observers smile knowingly. In this connection you should listen to the
engine and operate the clutch and accelerator so that the engine is
not raced or stalled.