At dawn, on the morning of the 14th of September, we found our caravan

waiting, in anxious expectation, under the walls of Meshid. At sunrise

the keys of the gate were brought, which was at once thrown open to us.

A new scene burst upon our view, with a rapidity which one only sees

in theatrical representation. We had left a desert and the wandering

Toorkmuns, and now advanced, in stately order, through a crowded

city, arresting the notice of all the inhabitants. We had exchanged

the broad face and broader turbans of the Toork and Tartar for the

slim and long-faced Kuzzilbash, with a fur cap on his head, and his

ringlets curling up behind, who now stood idly looking at us, with his

hands in his pockets. The street which we entered was spacious and

handsome; an aqueduct passed through it, and its banks were shaded by

trees, while the splendid cupola and gilded minarets of the shrine

of Imam Ruza terminated the perspective. A hundred and twenty camels

passed up this avenue, and entered the spacious caravansarai of the

Uzbeks. We followed in course, and seated ourselves on the balcony of

the building, that we might the better observe the busy scene of the

area beneath us. The inundation had, however, filled this extensive

caravansarai, and we were necessitated to seek for an abode in a

humbler place, which we found hard by.

The Prince Royal of Persia, Abbas Meerza, was now in the neighbourhood

of Meshid; and though this country had been visited by few Europeans,

we knew that there were British officers in his Royal Highness’s

service. I lost no time, therefore, in despatching an express to the

camp, which was about a hundred miles distant: but we were agreeably

surprised to receive a polite message from Mrs. Shee, the lady of

Captain Shee, who was then in Meshid; and it was equally pleasing to

have it conveyed by a messenger who spoke our own language, one of

the serjeants of the Prince’s army. During our stay in Meshid, we

found ourselves more comfortable than since we had left India, and

experienced many acts of civility and attention. We gladly changed the

barbarous custom of eating with our hands; and, though our fair hostess

was a Georgian, who only spoke Persian, we fancied ourselves once more

among the society of our country.

~Interview with Khoosrou Meerza.~

I was soon astir to see the city of Meshid; and first visited the

ark, or citadel, where I was suddenly surprised by the presence of

Khoosrou Meerza, the son of the Prince, and the young man who had been

deputed to St. Petersburg on the massacre of the Russian ambassador,

now the acting governor of Meshid, while his father kept the field. He

appeared to have profited by his journey to Europe, and conversed with

me for an hour, asking much about our travels, and then jested on my

beard and dress, which he assured me would be a great curiosity in my

native land. He enquired whether I was a Catholic or a Protestant; and

recurred with wonder to our having reached Persia in safety. He begged

I would visit him on the following day, which I did not fail to do,

being favourably impressed with this the first specimen of the royal

house. I found the Prince next morning transacting business in the ark;

and the ceremonial of approaching this scion of royalty was as formal

as if he had been sovereign of the land. He is a most talkative person,

and gave me an account of his journey to Russia, speaking with the

highest encomiums of the education and polished manners of the ladies

in that country. One of his suite, who appeared to be a privileged

person, said, that his Highness could never be excused for having

returned to Persia without one of these angels. The Prince declared

that it was impossible, and referred it to me, who was in duty bound

to tell him, that a person of his rank might have married the most

illustrious. Khoosrou Meerza appeared to be about twenty-three years of

age. He has had, of course, great advantages over other Persians; but

I liked his capacity and his remarks. He asked me if the ancient art

of staining glass had been revived; if our progress in sculpture was

yet thought to rival Greece; and if the unicorn had been found in any

quarter of the world. He then enquired whether it was most difficult to

introduce discipline among irregular troops, or a new system of laws

and government in a country. “With Europeans,” he said, “every thing

is based on history and experience; but in Persia there are no such

guides. Persia, which held a supremacy before the age of Mahommed, has

now sunk into a state of torpor and bigotry, and has no literature but

the Koran. In Europe, there are those who study the Bible, as well as

those who are devoted to science: but,” added he, “there is very little

religion in Russia among the higher ranks with whom I associated.” I

must confess that I was pleased to hear the youth talk so learnedly,

since a knowledge of one’s ignorance is the first step to improvement.

~Description of Meshid.~

I lost no time in visiting the city of Meshid; but I need not present a

diffuse or long account of it, since I find that there is both a minute

and correct one in Mr. Fraser’s admirable work on Khorasan.[6] The

holy city of Meshid surrounds the tomb of the Imam Ruza, the fifth in

descent from Ali, and three streets branch out in different directions

from the shrine. Two of them are wide and spacious, shaded by trees,

and enlivened by running water. A chain, drawn across the streets,

within a hundred yards of the shrine, encloses its bazar and the riches

of Meshid, and keeps out cattle and animals from the sanctified spot.

Here the hive has swarmed, for all other parts of Meshid are in ruins,

though its walls enclose a circuit of about seven miles. I cannot

rate its population at forty thousand souls. The greater portion of

the enclosed space is devoted to the use of a cemetery, since it is

believed that the dead may rest in peace near an Imam. There are also

shady gardens to please the living. The inhabitants of Meshid seem

to delight in burrowing in the ground; all the houses are entered by

a descent; and it is said, that the earth so scooped out has been

applied to the repairs and building of the house. The town is well

supplied with water from aqueducts and spacious cisterns. The natives

of Toorkistan will tell you, that the Imam Ruza removed to Meshid

on account of the wickedness of the people and the necessity for his

presence. The Uzbeks have a couplet, which states, “that if Meshid had

not its cerulean dome, it would be the common sewer of the world.”[7]

The Persians, on the other hand, describe it, in poetical language,

as “the most enlightened spot on the face of the earth, for there are

the rays of the Creator of the world.”[8] Who will judge between the

parties? At Bokhara, a Shiah is a Soonee; at Meshid, a Soonee wishes to

be thought a Shiah.

~Shrine of Imam Ruza.~

I paid an early visit to his holy shrine; for I experienced in my

peregrinations through Meshid none of the bigotry or jealousy which

seem so constantly to have beset Mr. Fraser. About the centre of the

city the sepulchre rests under a gilded dome, which is rivalled by twin

minarets of burnished gold, that shed resplendent light in the rays

of the sun. A spacious mosque of azure blue rears a loftier dome and

minarets close to the tomb, and was built by Gohur Shah, a descendant

of the illustrious Timour. The pilgrim who visits this shrine must

first travel the bazar and cross the chain, when he enters a sanctuary,

which no crime admits of being violated. He then proceeds under a lofty

archway, and finds himself within a spacious quadrangle, the work of

the great Abbas, which is a resting-place for the living and the dead.

It is surrounded by small apartments, like a caravansary, which is a

“madrissu,” or college, and the pavement is formed of tombstones, that

cover the remains of those whose devotion and wishes have led to their

being here interred. The arches and sides of the area are ornamented

with a painted tile, not unlike enamel, which has a chaste and rich

appearance. On the western side of the square lies the entrance to the

shrine, which leads under a lofty Gothic arch, of the richest gilding.

It is further adorned by mirrors let into the wall, and illuminated

after sunset by tapers suspended from the roof. Beyond this threshold

an infidel may not pass but in disguise, and my judgment conquered my

curiosity. I might have escaped in the crowd; but I might have been

discovered, though I learn that the beauties of the place deserve a

risk. The richness increases the fervency of the pilgrim’s devotion,

who enters it by a gate of silver; and the tomb is said to be shielded

from the touch of the profane by railings of steel and brass, on which

plates of silver and wood, with blessings and prayers carved upon them,

are suspended. Innumerable lamps of gold hang over the grave, which

are lit upon the “eed” and the holidays of the saints, to honour the

festival and enable the priests to display with advantage the riches

and jewels that pious individuals have consecrated at this shrine.

On the side opposite the entrance is the beautiful mosque of Gohur

Shah; and here I walked without timidity. It is a fine specimen of

architecture, and the arch, in which the “mihrab,” or niche towards

Mecca, is placed, is superbly adorned and most chastely executed. It is

beautified by lofty blue minarets on either side, which rise in rich

effect and grandeur.

~Grave of Nadir Shah.~

Meshid has no buildings but its shrine. There are some colleges and

a spacious and unfinished caravansary, with twenty-one others in

different parts of the city; but still it is the burial-place of

the great Nadir Shah. His grave, now dishonoured and marked by the

ruins of the edifice that once sheltered it from the elements, is

one of the most interesting sights to a traveller. What a field for

rumination in such a spot! The fountains and flowers which encircled

it have disappeared; the peach-tree, which put forth its blossom on

the returning spring, has fallen under the axe, and the willows and

cypresses have been torn down. In their place a crop of turnips had

been sown by some industrious citizen. Shade of Nadir, what a change

is here! he who shook the kingdoms of the East, has been denied in

death the small quadrangle of a garden, which the affection of sons

had hallowed to the merit of a parent. This is the reward of him who

delivered his country from a foreign usurper, and who studied his

country’s good: but the well-being of a state does not necessarily

comprehend the well-being of _all_ its members. Nadir aimed the blows

of despotism at the family which has succeeded to his empire, and he

maimed the successful individual, who seized upon his kingdom and

ejected his sons. Aga Mahommed Khan Khoju was mutilated in his youth

by Nadir; but he retained the feelings of a man, and dug up the bones

of the conqueror, in revenge for his disgrace. Report adds, that he

sent them to Tehran, and placed them under the step which leads to the

audience hall, that the courtiers and every one might trample upon

them. We can readily comprehend the chagrin of a monarch who was not a

man; and if his wrath excites our contempt, it enlists our sympathy.

A eunuch himself, he spared his country from those banes of a palace.

There are still some of Nadir’s descendants living in Meshid; but they

are blind and in destitute circumstances. My informant told me that

they often applied to him for bread.

~Illumination.~

We soon received a reply to our communication from the Prince Royal’s

camp, and were invited to pay our respects to Abbas Meerza, who had

just captured the fortress of Koochan, which was said to be one of

the strongest in Persia. The intelligence of its fall was received in

Meshid with great enthusiasm, and followed by an illumination of three

successive nights: for no monarch since the days of Nadir had ever

subdued the chiefs of Khorasan. We dined _à la Perse_ with Abdool, our

old travelling friend, who is a merchant in Meshid, and then proceeded

to view the illumination. Among the devices, I most admired the shop of

a butcher, who had illuminated eight or ten sheep, by placing lights

behind their fat and tallow, which he had cut into delicate stripes. I

gave him credit for his ingenuity, if he kept his meat from roasting.

In one street I saw an effigy dangling in the air, which I, of course,

set down as the Koord chief who had been captured at Koochan; but this

was no other person than the accursed Omar. It must have edified the

Soonees to witness the holy caliph between earth and heaven; but I had

none of my Bokhara acquaintances to give me their comments. Besides the

effigy on the gibbet, we had a real exhibition of a man suspended from

a beam laid across the street, and that, too, in a blaze of light. How

the contrivance was made I did not discover; for he had a rope round

his neck, and kicked and acted to reality. As the crowd gazed on this

curious exhibition, a wag fixed eight or ten tapers to the head of a

butting ram, and let him loose among the assembly, where he forced his

way as well by his horns as the lights that crowned him. Altogether the

scene approached much nearer a genuine British illumination than I had

ever expected to see in Asia.

We now prepared for our journey to camp, and took leave of all our

Bokhara acquaintances and friends; visiting most of them at the

caravansary, where we had a parting cup of tea. Many of the slaves came

to see us, and we now hailed them as freemen. I was sorry to bid adieu

to Ernuzzer the Toorkmun; but I gave him a letter to the Vizier of

Bokhara; and, as it contained all the news of Khorasan, he seemed proud

to be its bearer, and was anxious to set out on his return. We had now

less fear of being thought rich; so we clothed our friend in a dress,

and amply rewarded him for his services. I stuck a pistol in his girdle

as he was leaving; and, though of the coarsest manufacture, it seemed a

mighty gift to a Toorkmun. I had also to prepare a variety of letters

to our friends in Toorkistan, to whom I was pledged to write. I did

not require such a pledge: for at a distance from them, and many more

of our friends on this side the Indus, I remembered innumerable acts

of kindness which had contributed to our comfort and happiness while

living among them, which I could not now forget. In Meshid, perhaps,

our feelings were more pleasing than in any part of the journey; for

we had the prospect of soon seeing our countrymen, and the rest of our

undertaking was, comparatively speaking, easy. We could now dress in

respectable and clean clothes, without being called on to pay for our

comforts.

~Departure from Meshid.~

After a week’s stay at Meshid, we quitted it on the 23d of September,

and marched up the valley of the Meshid river to Ameerabad, a distance

of forty miles. It was dark before we reached the stage, and we were

benighted; we therefore spread our felts in a field, and bivouacked

through the night. We espied the lights of some travellers near us, and

they sold us wheat, with which we fed our ponies. About twelve miles

from Meshid, we passed the ruins of Toose, which is the ancient capital

of Khorasan; but the inhabitants have transferred themselves to Meshid.

The valley of this river is rich; and it was pleasant to see extensive

fields, in a dry country, watered by irrigation. Ameerabad, which we

did not see, is a strong fortress, and was captured by the Prince,

about a month before we arrived, after a siege of five weeks. It is

situated in the district of Chinaran.

~Koochan.~

We continued our progress up the valley for sixty miles, and reached

Koochan on the third day of our leaving Meshid. This is said to be

the coldest part of Khorasan; and it may well be believed, when the

thermometer fell to 29° at sunrise in September. As water boiled at

206°, we were about 4000 feet above the sea. The valley varied in

breadth from twelve to twenty miles, and there were some verdant

spots under the hills, where the finest fruit is produced. Otherwise

the country was bare and bleak. The hills have no wood, and are even

destitute of brushwood. They rise to the height of 2000 or 3000 feet

above the valley. We passed many villages by the way; but they were now

deserted, on account of the war against the Koords. The roads were hard

and excellent. We met many of the soldiers returning to their homes,

since the campaign had terminated. They were a favourable specimen

of the troops of Khorasan; for they were provided with arms that had

serviceable flint locks, which I had not seen since leaving Cabool. The

men were small, but they were merely the “Eeljaree,” or militia of the

country.

~Camp of the Prince.~

~European officers.~

We reached the camp of Abbas Meerza a little before noon, and found

ourselves once more in European society. So complete was our disguise,

that we had to make ourselves known, though we were expected. We sat

down to breakfast with Captain Shee, Mr. Barowski, and Mr. Beek,

who now compose the corps of officers in the Prince’s service. How

delighted did we feel to hear our native language, and learn the news

and events which had been passing in our protracted absence! We had

arrived at an eventful moment, as the fortress had but a few days

fallen, and we yet threaded our way among fascines and gabions, sap,

mines, outworks, batteries, covert ways, and all the other works of

a besieging army. Nothing could be more gloomy than the walls of the

town. The parapet had been nearly dismantled; some of the towers had

been blown up; all were battered; and the soldiery, now relieved from

the dangers of the campaign, were filling up the ditch in listless

idleness. This fosse was a barrier of a most formidable nature;

for it was about thirty-five feet deep and twenty broad, though it

narrowed towards the bottom. The Prince’s army had effected a lodgment

across it; and a few more hours would have settled the fate of the

fortress, when its chief surrendered at discretion. Koochan is a strong

fortress, about a mile and a half in circumference, and was defended

by a garrison of 8000 men. The assault would have been attended with

bloodshed, and its fall is entirely to be attributed to the European

officers, whose science and skill had been grafted on the labour and

exertion of the Persians.

~Introduction to Abbas Meerza.~

In the evening, we were introduced to the Prince Royal, by Captain

Shee. His Royal Highness was proceeding to inspect his park of

artillery, and we met him by the way. He received us in a most engaging

and affable manner; offered us his congratulations at the great success

of our journey through countries which he had not believed accessible

to Europeans. He then assured us, that our troubles were at an end,

since we had reached a land where our nation was respected. I thanked

the Prince for his kindness, and then briefly replied to the various

questions which he put regarding the countries we had visited. By

this time we were standing in front of his artillery, while the whole

of his court were about fifty yards in rear of us. The Prince gave a

signal, and about six or eight persons advanced. He introduced two of

them as his sons; another as Ruza Koli Khan, the conquered chief of the

proud fortress. There was also another Koord chief; and Yar Mahommed

Khan, the minister of Herat. What a sight did the great Koord chief

present to us, now standing in homage before his conqueror and the

artillery which had subdued him. It appears that the parade had been

ordered, to give him a sight of the park, and we had arrived at the

opportune time to witness the spectacle. The Prince, turning towards

me, said, “You must see my artillery;” and we then passed down the

line with his Royal Highness, examining each gun as we approached it.

Abbas Meerza took great pains to explain every thing concerning them;

and the enquiries and looks of the unfortunate Ruza Koli Khan drew

forth many a smiling remark. The chief appeared bewildered, and I

thought he feigned insanity. He asked the Prince to give him a large

mortar, which we were all admiring; Abbas Meerza told him not now to

trouble himself about these things. The guns, which had fallen with the

fortress, were drawn up in line, with the other artillery; they were

Russian ordnance, cast in 1784, and had been captured from the present

King of Persia. The Koord chief pretended not to recognise them; and,

when he heard of their history, made a just enough remark, that they

were good enough for Koochan. In the place of this chief, I should

have considered it no dishonour to be subdued by a park of thirty-five

guns, from four to 32-pounders, in the best state of efficiency. The

Prince then witnessed the exercise of the corps; bearing the amplest

testimony to the merits of Captain Lindsay (now Sir Henry Bethune),

the British officer who had organised it, and of whom he spoke with

kindness. The ceremony then terminated, and we retired from the scene

with much gratification at an interview with a Charles the Second in

Persia. I was disappointed in Abbas Meerza’s appearance. He has been

handsome, but is now haggard, and looks an old man; he has lost his

erect carriage, his eye waters, and his cheek is wrinkled. He was

plainly dressed, and walked with a stick in his hand. His eldest son,

Mahommed Meerza, was present; but he has not the manners or dignity of

his parent, though he is also an agreeable person.

~Interview with Abbas Meerza.~

On the following morning we paid our respects to the Prince Royal in

his tents, and found him transacting business with his minister, the

Kaim Mukam, and several other persons who were standing round him.

There was no state or pomp to mark so great a personage. When the

Prince had settled some matters on which he was engaged, he gave us a

dose of politics, and talked of the incomparable advantages to England

of upholding Persia, and begged I would explain in my own country his

present situation; which, though at the head of a successful army,

was most embarrassing, since he had no money to pay it. I told the

Prince that I regretted to hear such a detail of his difficulties,

and I could only hope that he would surmount them all. I did not tell

him, as I have ever felt, that I consider the payment of money to such

a cabinet as derogatory to the name and honour of Britain; since it

has tended more to lower our reputation in Asia than our most martial

deeds in India have done to raise it. There was not, however, wanting

a share of cant in the Prince’s oration; for he gravely assured me

that he had now taken the field to suppress the sale and capture of

his subjects as slaves by the Uzbeks. The motive was praiseworthy; but

mark the conclusion:--“I am entitled, therefore, to the assistance of

Britain: for if you expend annually thousands of pounds in suppressing

the slave trade in Africa, I deserve your aid in this quarter, where

the same motives exist for the exercise of your philanthropy.” I was

pleased with the ingenuity and earnestness of the reasoning, which

his Royal Highness had, no doubt, derived from some English newspaper

or English friend. The Prince now turned to other matters, and asked

regarding my education, and the notes which I had taken of the unknown

country I had visited. “I am aware of your custom to do so,” said

he; “and it is this general observance of it which has exalted your

nation in the scale of civilisation.” He enquired if I had met with

any potatoes in my travels; and, on my replying in the negative, he

produced a basketful of his own rearing, with evident satisfaction.

They were a fair specimen, and do most decidedly entitle his Royal

Highness to be elected an honorary member of a horticultural society.

In the true spirit of a courtier, the Prince returned to the Uzbeks

and the different countries of Toorkistan with which he thought me

best acquainted. He asked, if I had met with any explanation of those

passages in the History of Timour, where the undermining of a tower is

described, and its then being destroyed by fire. I was not prepared

for such a question, and mentioned the Greek fire used at the siege of

Constantinople, and the circumstance of Timour’s vicinity to China,

where it is believed that the art of making gunpowder was then known.

I had not at this time heard that the undermined towers were supported

by wooden frameworks, which, when set fire to, ceased to support the

bastion, and it consequently fell. I next replied to the Prince’s

queries regarding the customs of the Uzbeks. He smiled at their

abomination of tobacco; since they sold it publicly, and mentioned that

the servants of an envoy, whom he had lately received from Orgunje,

caught the smoke as it came out of their master’s mouth. I had not

seen such barbarism in Bokhara. When I related to the Prince the

spiritual notions of the Uzbeks, and some instances of their hearing

witness against themselves, he related to us a similar occurrence in

the life of Ali:--A female, who was _enceinte_, called for death, as

an atonement for her sins. The Caliph desired her to appear when her

offspring was born. She did so, and again accused herself; and he gave

the command for her being stoned to death, but prohibited every one

from lifting a stone who was in the least impure. The Caliph put the

woman to death himself. I told his Royal Highness that I regretted I

had not heard the tale, that I might have replied to the Uzbeks. The

Prince then requested me to give him some notes on the resources of

the country about Shurukhs, which he shortly intended to visit. I gave

them without hesitation. Abbas Meerza, during this interview, spoke

of geography and mathematics by these names, and evinced a tolerable

proficiency in the first of these sciences. He spoke of New Holland;

but he did not enlighten me on one of his favourite plans, by which

he purposes to consign all his brothers and nephews to that country

on his accession to the crown.[9] Never was any thing more visionary.

I now intimated my wishes to prosecute my journey among the Toorkmun

tribes to the Caspian Sea; and the Prince, with great urbanity, assured

me that I might visit any portion of the Persian dominions. He spoke

of the danger of journeying among Toorkmuns; but desired his secretary

to prepare a “rukum,” or order, which would ensure protection, and

suggested our accompanying a Khan, who was proceeding in that quarter.

He also offered a letter to his brother, the Prince of Mazanderan, and

had it intimated to his son, who was then in his camp, that I would

proceed in that quarter. We then took our leave of Abbas Meerza, much

gratified by the interview. I cannot say that I was strongly impressed

with his talents; but they evidently rise above mediocrity, and he is

said to be swayed in his councils by others; he is, in every sense of

the word, a perfect gentleman.

~Acquaintances.~

In the Persian camp we had many visiters, and found much to amuse us

in the bustling scene. We found two of the Persian gentlemen, who had

been in England, Meerza Baba, the Hukeem Bashee, and Meerza Jaffier,

both of whom now sighed for the return of the days which they had

passed in England. There, they were _lions_: here, they were among

their countrymen. Meerza Baba is an intelligent and agreeable man; and,

in an Asiatic, I have never seen a more perfect approach to an English

gentleman, both in language and manners. I jested with him about Hajee

Baba; but that work has given great offence in Persia, and the Hukeem

Bashee assured me that the English did not understand the Persians. I

can hardly agree with him, for I afterwards saw a good deal of Hajee

Babaism in the land.

~Future plans. Separation from Dr. Gerard.~

Since we had entered Khorasan my fellow-traveller, Dr. Gerard, had

come to the resolution of turning down upon Herat, and Candahar,

and thus retraceing his steps to Cabool, in preference to advancing

upon the Caspian. The main object of our journey had been now nearly

accomplished, and the route of Herat, which promised him some

gratification, had been travelled in safety by Lieutenant Arthur

Conolly[10], an enterprising officer of the Bengal Cavalry, and all

the French officers of Runjeet Sing. We now, therefore, prepared

to separate, after a weary pilgrimage of nine months which we had

performed together. Our feelings on such an occasion may be imagined;

but we parted with the knowledge, that we had almost brought the

original design of our undertaking to a close, and that both to the

east and west all serious dangers were at an end. At Koochan I also

permitted the Hindoo lad to return to India, along with Dr. Gerard;

and, at his own request, I discharged my faithful Afghan servant, who

had accompanied me from Lodiana. His name was Sooliman, a native of

Peshawur. He was quite unlettered; but he had kept both my secrets

and my money where there were many inducements to betray. He had

proved himself worthy of my confidence; and the feelings with which I

parted from him were those of unmingled approbation and regard. By the

opportunity which presented itself I wrote to all our native friends in

Cabool, and even to Runjeet Sing himself. It would be presumptuous to

believe that the many titled personages I addressed were my friends,

though their professions had been great: but, if the rulers and

governors of countries and cities be set aside, there was yet a long

list of good and worthy men as correspondents, whose good wishes, I

do not hesitate to say, I desire. It will not be out of place to name

the individuals I addressed on this occasion, since we experienced

civilities and kindness from all.

Koosh Begee, of Bokhara.

Sirdar Dost Mahommed Khan, of Cabool.

Nuwab Jubbar Khan, of Cabool.

Sirwur Khan Lohanee, of Cabool, at Bokhara.

Sirdar Sooltan Mahommed Khan, of Peshawur.

Peer Mahommed Khan,}

Saed Mahommed Khan,} his brothers.

Moorad Ali Khan Nazir, of Peshawar.

Ghoolam Kadir Khan,}

Meer Alum, } Sons of Cazee Moolah Hoosun.

Toghy Hosn Caboolee, of Lodiana.

Shere Mahommed Khan (his son), Bokhara.

Moollah Ruheem Shah Cashmeeree, Cabool.

Naib Mahommed Shureef, Cabool.

Mean Fuzil huq Sahibzadu, Peshawur.

Meean Sado Deen, Peshawur.

Maharaja Runjeet Sing, Lahore.

Sirdar Lenu Sing, Majeetia.

Sirdar Huree Singat, Attok.

Meerza Saeed ibn Yar Mahommed Balkhee, Bokhara.

CHAP. XV.

JOURNEY AMONG THE TOORKMUNS OF THE CASPIAN.

~Departure from Koochan.~

On the 29th of September, I bade farewell to my fellow-traveller and

the officers of the Prince’s service, and commenced a journey to

the shores of the Caspian. I joined Humza Khan, who had been lately

appointed Governor of the Toorkmuns east of that sea, and now proceeded

with a party of about three hundred persons, composed of Koords,

Persians, and Toorkmuns; but the alarms for personal safety, which

had so often troubled me in days that were gone, had now, I may say,

vanished, for I looked upon all those around me as friends. My costume

led to many mistakes among the party; and, after I had satisfied the

Khan that I was the “Firingee” recommended to his care by the Prince,

I felt rather disposed to mix with the others as one of themselves,

since a better opportunity would be afforded for judging of the people.

We bivouacked, after a march of twenty-six miles, beyond Shirwan, a

strong fortress, with a deep wet ditch, that was now being dismantled

by orders of the Prince. From the small number of labourers engaged on

this work of spoliation, I suppose it will be soon abandoned, and that

the place will rise in due time as one of the strong-holds of Khorasan.

~Atruck River. Boojnoord.~

We followed the course of the Atruck river, which rises near Koochan,

till within ten miles of Boojnoord, when we left it running westward

as a small rivulet, and crossed several mountain ridges. A march of

thirty-eight miles brought us to Boojnoord, a rather large place,

standing in a spacious valley, and the residence of one of the Koord

chiefs, who prudently tendered his allegiance on the approach of the

Prince, and now owed the possession of his fortress to his share of

discretion. We here saw, for the first time, the wandering inhabitants,

or Ilyats, of Khorasan, about a thousand of whose black tents were

scattered around. They did not appear to differ from the Ghiljees

of Cabool. On our march to Boojnoord we met the peasantry crowding

in bodies to occupy their native villages. They had fled on the

commencement of the war, and now returned on the success of the Prince:

the poor creatures stopped to ask the particulars of the campaign;

but the women and children could hardly believe us any other than

plundering Koords. The year had passed away without a crop; but, if

the country returns to a state of peace, it may yet become prosperous

and happy. War has desolating effects everywhere; but it is fearful

to be befriended by a Persian army. The enemy who opposes it fares

best, since he has no billets sent to him for grain and supplies; the

pittance of the obedient subject is actually devoured.

~Toorkmun discipline.~

Four miles from Boojnoord, we left the valley in which it is situated,

and entered among hills. It was difficult to trace any range either

to our right or left, but those on the south were covered with pine

trees. The climate was moist and pleasant, and there were many rich and

beautiful spots of cultivation among the bare hills. The vineyards of

Sarewan, which were in a deep glen, are quite enchanting. Though the

country was mountainous, the road was excellent; and, after a march of

thirty-six miles, we reached Kila Khan, in the district of Simulghan,

which is richly watered from the hills. We were now upon the line of

inroad of the Tuka Toorkmuns, who engage in constant forays between

Meshid and Tehran; and the mountains and roads over which we trod must

ever be crossed by them. Our own party, however, consisted of two

hundred Toorkmuns of the Goklan and Yamood tribe, who had served in

the Prince’s army, and were now discharged: such was their share of

the glories of the Khorasan campaign. We had had a specimen of their

native propensities in our second march from the camp, where they met a

party of villagers proceeding to sell their grapes. The poor peasants

were mercilessly beaten, and the Toorkmuns pillaged the greater portion

of the contents of their baskets. By the laws of an enlightened

country, they might not have been blameable, if they were actually in

want of food. The spoil was shared equally among them, and he who had

knocked down fared no better than he who was in the rear: they even

brought me a share of the captured property. It was in vain that the

Khan endeavoured to discountenance these practices, for he possessed

no authority over them. At length they received a salutary check at

Sarewan, where the villagers turned out in a body, and knocked down a

trespasser, which frightened his comrades. I secretly rejoiced at their

discomfiture.

~Travelling in Khorasan.~

What a long Fursukh is that of Khorasan, says a traveller, who has

toiled from sun-rise nearly to sun-set, and who can no longer cling to

his jaded horse, but by the prong in front of his saddle. An European,

who canters and gallops onwards, can form no just conception of the

fatigue of a forty-mile stage in Khorasan, where every step must be

walked, and there is no inn or refreshment at the end of it. “By the

head of the Prophet!” said one of the party, as we neared our halting

ground, “this road is longer than the entrails of Omar, for my back and

my knees have lost their feeling.” I had a hearty laugh at the quaint

comparison, and also sympathized in his fatigue. “Pidr sokhtu!” (Burn

his father!) continued the talkative Persian, “I never was so worn

out.” In our party we had several lively fellow-travellers; and, on a

few days’ acquaintance, the Persian appeared to me a better sort of

being in his country than abroad, where his vanity is beyond endurance.

~Tribe of Gireilee.~

A march of thirty-eight miles brought us to the site of a village

called Shahbaz; but we had now lost all traces of inhabitants, though

the country was rich. The tribe of Gireilee had in former years tilled

the soil, and tended their cattle: but human beings appear to be

considered in these countries as much property as horse-flesh; and Aga

Mahommed Khan had transferred the whole race to Mezenderan. The rich

pastures of the country lay neglected: for what peasant would seek his

abode near the Tuka Toorkmuns, whose tents lie but a few miles distant

beyond the hills. In the society of two hundred of these people, we

even did not feel ourselves altogether safe. In all our bivouacs,

I had hitherto escaped the damp ground as a bed, but I rose in the

morning stiff and benumbed by humidity and dews. The sun soon dried

my clothes, and good spirits (I do not mean brandy) prevented any evil

consequences. We were now travelling among mountains, with alternate

hill and dale, and over a wild and romantic country. There were a few

stunted pine trees on the hills, but they were oftener bare of every

thing but grass. All the people were kind and conversable; and man

requires little else even in the arid regions of Khorasan.

~A Toorkmun acquaintance.~

A Toorkmun who had proffered his acquaintance, by the way asked me

abruptly to tell him the news of Bokhara, recognising, I suppose, in my

costume the dress of that country. He addressed me in Persian, which

was no doubt as foreign a language to him as myself. “I am a Firingee,”

said I; when the Toorkmun pulled up his horse, and said, “Come, do not

think you can play the fool with me, for Firingees have no beards;

and your shaved head and dress belie your assertion.” It was in vain

that I continued to convince him of my real character. “Soonee, or

Shiah, which are you?” said he. “Be it so,” replied I, “since you are

determined to have me a Mahommedan;” and I repeated the names of the

first four Caliphs, the watchword of the Soonees and Toorkmuns, who are

all of that persuasion. “Bravo!” cried my new acquaintance; “I knew I

was right;” and we journeyed together with great delight, I personating

a character which had been forced upon me: nor was it sufficient that

my creed was settled; the Toorkmun also fixed my country, which was

Cabool. I did not allow the opportunity to pass which thus presented

itself of improving my knowledge of the Toorkmuns, whose lands we were

once more to enter.

~Running down partridges.~

My friend dashed off with great precipitation among a crowd of his

countrymen, to run down a “kubk,” or partridge, which rose near us.

This is an easier matter than would be at first imagined, as the number

captured soon proved. These birds fly once or twice, seldom thrice,

and are then picked up. The Toorkmuns were delighted with the sport,

and I participated in their excitement, though I did not join in it.

The long spears with which they were armed, their great activity, and

the horsemanship which they displayed, gave what I imagined to be a

just resemblance to their “chupao,” when in search of human beings.

At a gallop, a Toorkmun cavalier leans forward on his saddle, which

gives him an air of eagerness that is singularly interesting. The whole

scene was worthy of the ancient Parthia, the very country that we now

traversed.

~A Toorkmun bard.~

Among the Toorkmuns I noticed an individual loitering by the way, and

humming some notes as he went, to which his leg and his arm seemed to

be keeping time, while an instrument like a “sitar,” or lute, served to

convince me that I had at last got hold of a character for whom I had

been searching--a bard of the Toorkmuns. “Sulam alaikoom,” said I to

the bard; who returned it most graciously. But, alas! our conversation

here ended, for he knew no language but Toorkee, and my acquaintance

was but sufficient to tell him that I knew it not. Instinct set the

bard to the task which I wished; and he struck up one of the airs of

his tribe; but the paces of our horses did not admit of his using his

instrument. Music is an expensive accomplishment in all countries; and

the bard began to interrogate me as to his reward, hinting that he must

not be wasting his arts in vain. An interpreter between us informed him

that he should have a good pilao in the evening; but the Toorkmun gave

a glance behind him, and asked who would cook the pilao for a man who

had not even a servant. Here was a hint to travel in state. The bard

dropped in the rear to ask who I might be; and I did have the pleasure

in the evening of giving him a pilao, and removing his doubts of my

solvency. For this I had a promise of introduction to the minstrels of

his clan.

~Goklan Toorkmuns.~

Six miles from Shahbaz we took leave of the hill and dale which we

had so long traversed, and descended into a valley, which contained

the source of the river of Goorgan. For about twenty miles we wound

gradually through it, without the smallest marks of civilisation: but

our day’s journey terminated among the tenements of the Toorkmuns,

which I was delighted once more to behold. These people are of the

tribe of Goklan, and amount to about nine thousand families. No scene

could be more enchanting than that on which we had now entered: the

hills were wooded to the summit, and the hue of the different trees was

so varied and bright, as hardly to appear natural. A rivulet flowed

through the dell; and almost every fruit grew in a state of nature. The

fig, the vine, pomegranate, raspberry, black currant, and the hazel,

shot up everywhere; and, as we approached the camp of the Toorkmuns,

there were extensive plantations of the mulberry. The different groups

of tents were pitched in grotesque order in the open lawn near the

river; and our party halted at one of their settlements on a beautiful

shelf of green turf, that lay at the base of a cloud-capped hill,

clothed with the richest foliage. The Toorkmuns received their new

Governor with every respect, and appropriated a certain number of

their tents for his accommodation: one of these was kindly bestowed on

me; and I now found myself for the first time since leaving India (I

except the camp of Abbas Meerza) under the shelter of a tent, and that

too among the Toorkmuns. I also received buttered cakes and melons, as

their guest, and fared sumptuously.

~Customs of the Toorkmuns.~

On winding through the valley, we had an opportunity of witnessing an

interesting sight in the welcoming of a chief, or “Aksukal,” who had

accompanied us from Koochan. We had only known him as a Wild Toorkmun;

and, for my own part, I had scarcely noticed him: but here he was a

noble, and, what is greater, a patriarch. He had been summoned by the

Prince Royal, and now returned to his home. For miles before reaching

the camp, the Toorkmuns crowded upon us to bid him welcome: all of them

were on horseback--men, women, and children; and several of them cried,

as they kissed his hand. At length, in a shady and picturesque part of

the valley, a party, which appeared more respectable than the others,

had dismounted and drawn up. This was the family of the chief: he

leaped upon the ground with the enthusiasm of a youth, rushed forward,

and kissed in succession four boys, who were his sons. The scene was

pathetic; and the witty Persians, who had before been imitating some

of the actions and exclamations of the Toorkmuns, were silenced by

this fervent flow of affection. Three of the boys were under ten years

of age, yet they mounted their horses with spirit, and joined the

cavalcade. There were no bells to ring the peals of joy which this

day pervaded the Goklan Toorkmuns: nor were they required to give

more certain indication of their delight. A party of their countrymen

had returned in safety from battle; the clan had gathered from every

quarter; and, as they took up their position in the rear, they gave to

us, who were indifferent spectators, the cordial salutation of friends.

The women said, “Koosh geldee” (You are welcome), and crossed their

hands on their breasts, as we passed them, in token of sincerity:

I never witnessed a scene of more universal joy. A horseman, more

delighted than the rest, appeared with his horse sinking under a load

of bread, which he distributed in cakes to every one he met, with this

remark:--“Take this, it is good in the sight of God: take it, you are

a guest and a stranger.” It was impossible to look on such scenes with

an eye of indifference; and could I but give in more graphic language

the scenes of this day among the Toorkmuns, it would excite the warmest

emotion: and yet I speak of the lawless Toorkmuns, who plunder and

desolate the land: so true is it, that the character of mankind is

made up of the most glaring inconsistencies and contradictions.

~Toorkmuns of the Caspian.~

The Khan whom I had accompanied, was now busily engaged in the

duties of his new occupation. He was the harbinger of good news to

the Toorkmuns: for they, who plunder every one, had been themselves

plundered by the Mezenderan troops, who had proceeded to join the army

through their territories. The Prince had ordered a register of their

losses to be communicated; and our Khan moved from camp to camp as a

welcome visiter. I continued with him for four days, which I passed in

pleasing observation of Toorkmun habits and customs. No opportunity

could have been more favourable to the purpose, since we were every

where well received by them; and I appeared in the suite of a great

man. The tribe of Goklan Toorkmuns is subject to Persia, which has

asserted its supremacy for the last thirty-six years. Their allegiance

is unwilling, but it is complete; for they have exchanged the habits

of rapine for the peaceful vocation of agriculture. They want the

affluence and comfort which I have described among the Toorkmuns of

Shurukhs. The Yamood tribe, which lies between them and the Caspian,

have been also subdued by Persia; but the greater number of that clan,

which is said to amount to twenty thousand families, enables them

frequently to resist and rebel. The Goklans, however, have no political

power. The Tuka Toorkmuns, which skirt, to the north, both these tribes

that I have named, maintain their independence of Persia. The customs

of the Toorkmuns do not differ from those about Bokhara, only that they

more nearly resemble citizens. The women conceal the face below the

mouth; though I cannot say that the personal charms of those whom I

saw during our stay here would induce even a forward youth to sue for

a kiss, or a sight of their ruby lips. Their dress more assimilates to

that of Persia than those of the desert.

~A Toorkmun patriarch.~

In our travels from one tenement to another, I met a man of about sixty

years of age, who first attracted my notice, by observing every one

dismount as he advanced, and proceed to kiss his hand; for which he

gave his blessing. This was a Syud of the Toorkmuns. A Persian, who

had observed my watchful attention to what was passing, called out

to the aged man that I was an European; and we were soon engaged in

conversation. He held the unpromising name of Mahommed Ghilich, or the

“Sword of Mahommed;” but the universal respect bestowed upon him had

softened his manners; and age had mellowed his voice: his sentiments,

too, were pleasing. He asked if all Franks were Christians; and when

I told him they were, he said, “It is well to follow our own creed: a

Jew, a Christian, a Mahommedan, will be one in death.” Our conversation

then turned upon the Toorkmuns; and he lamented their sale of human

beings, since a difference of religion afforded no just grounds for

such cruelty. “It was a propensity of their race,” said he; “for their

dispositions were wicked, and they listened not to his advice. But am

I speaking to a ‘Firingee?’” said the aged man, abruptly interrupting

himself; “I have never before seen one; and how should I in so remote

a country. Where is the country of the Franks; and where is the desert

of the Toorkmuns? There must be something peculiar in our destiny,”

continued he to muse aloud with himself, “which has brought you and

me together. Our spirits (roh) must have had intercourse in another

world, to meet in this;” which was a singular remark. After travelling

together for about three miles, we stopped at a mound of earth which

had a pole stuck in the centre, and several of which we had already

seen. “What is this?” enquired I. “It is called a _Yoozka_; and marks

the place where some one has died or been laid out as a corpse. The

Toorkmuns say a blessing as they pass the spot, and hope for the favour

of the deceased. It is an old custom among us, and you will see many

others as you advance.” They are not graves, but mounds or barrows

raised in honour of the dead. I entertain an impression that the usage

is Tatar; but I had no opportunity of further investigation. The

venerable Syud was crossing to the top of a neighbouring hill, where

was his home and six sons. He clasped my hand, blessed me, wished me a

safe journey to my country; and consigning me to God, according to the

custom of the people, we parted.

~Noble scenery.~

At length we cleared the valley of the Goorgan river, and debouched

upon the plain eastward of the Caspian. The landscape was very

imposing. To our left, the hills, now running in a range, rose up to a

great height, clad to the summit with forest trees and foliage. To our

right, the extensive plains, which are watered by the rivers Atruk and

Goorgan, and richly verdant, were studded with innumerable encampments

of Toorkmuns, and diversified by flocks and herds. In our front, at a

distance, we descried the lofty mountains of Elboorz, that seemed to

shut up an otherwise boundless plain. Such a scene would have delighted

any one; much more a wanderer from the deserts of Scythia.

The Khan, before I took my departure, gratified my curiosity on

the subject of Toorkmun minstrelsy, by sending two “Bukhshees,” or

Bards, to amuse me with their lyre and lays. The instrument was a rude

two-stringed _sitar_, to which they sung the national airs in Toorkee.

They first gave me an “Attack of the Tuka Toorkmuns on the Persians;”

and the following literal translation will give some notion of a

Toorkmun war song:--

~Toorkmun national songs.~

THE TUKA TOORKMUNS TO THE KOORDS.

Lootf Ali Khan! Your greatness is gone, it is time to lead you

away captive, Begler![11] It is time to marshal our forces

at night, and prepare for a “chupao”[12] in the morning.

The dust of your fields shall blow away under the hoofs of the

Toorkmuns.

The Tukas will bear off your daughters arrayed in velvet.

Thanks be to God, my name shall abound unto the skies.

If you know the year of the goat[13], know that I shall then

plunder Meshid.

All your hopes in Khorasan shall be broken. You will now be obliged

to flee to Tehran, Begler!

I have an hundred noble youths who watch you.

Nor do they lack attention; they will drag you to my presence, Begler!

Oh, Begler! I’ll bear off your guns to Khiva: your power is gone.

I’ll assemble my warriors on the plain.

If you have sense, remember my advice.

Send me a youth and a beautiful girl as a tribute.

Oh, Bhaee Mahomed![14] this is the time of my happiness.

The Koords, though a Persian tribe, are as much addicted to plunder as

the Toorkmuns; and there is, perhaps, greater spirit in the following

song in reply to the Tuka Toorkmuns:--

THE KOORDS TO THE TUKA TOORKMUNS.

Begler! Give my respects to the Tukas. There is a place called

Urkuj.[15]

You have long enough enjoyed it.

You have sat in Urkuj for many a year. It is now time, Begler! that

you should decamp.

We shall now pitch our tents on the meadows of Nisaœ.[15]

We shall sound the trumpet of retreat as you flee.

Our horsemen will capture those who attempt to escape.

We shall trample under foot those who lag behind.

We shall gaze on your lovely daughters.

Our brave warriors, clad in their armour, shall gallop over your

plains.

Our soldiers will charge beyond your fort, Begler!

The walls of Akkul[15] will tremble at the report of our artillery.

I shall bring a powerful army along with me.

I shall pass beyond the plains of Kipchak.[16]

My advanced guard will dismount in the field of Maimuna.

Your people will be annihilated in the sands of the desert.

When you are driven among the sand hills,

Your feet will blister, and your mouths will be parched.

Wherever you may be, my guides will ferret you out.

When they have marked you down, we shall seize you and your

families.

Oh, Dooshkoon![17] I speak thus from myself:

That plain, now so beautiful, will shortly appear to you a bed of

thorns.

~Quit the country of the Toorkmuns.~

With these national lays closed my acquaintance with the Toorkmuns. I

passed down upon Astrabad by the plain; avoiding, as much as possible,

all intercourse with the Yamoods, who were not described as so pacific

as the Goklans. I met several parties of them, and they offered me

no incivility, though I had now left the suite of the Khan, and was

travelling alone. A journey of eighty miles brought us to the town

of Astrabad, from which the view is very imposing. At the base of

mountains, one of which is the craggy fortress of Humawuran, the scene

of Persian romance, lay the vast plain of the Toorkmuns. The Caspian

could be but faintly distinguished, for it is upwards of twenty miles

distant. On our route from the country of the Goklans, we passed a

lofty cupola, the Goombuz Kaoos, supposed to stand on the ruins of

the ancient Goorgan. It is said to have been once connected with the

Caspian by a boundary line of forts styled the “Lanut Nooma,” or the

“curse shower;” since every person was accursed who presumed to cross

into the country of the Toorkmuns. The natives spoke of the wars and

battles of by-gone years, when the rivers Goorgan and Atruk were dyed

with blood; but I hope, as I believe, only in the metaphors of the poet.

~Arrival at Astrabad.~

~Plague.~

In Astrabad we alighted at a caravansary; and passed two gloomy days

in this “City of the Plague.” That scourge had last year devastated

this town; and I sauntered without pleasure through its deserted

streets. Half the shops and houses were shut, literally from want

of masters; and the whole population did not exceed 4000 souls. The

disease raged here with fearful violence; and from some families of

ten or twelve, two or three only remained. In every instance that the

tumours of the patient burst, life was spared; but not till it had

left the most horrid scars as marks of its virulence: they looked like

gunshot wounds. One would have almost imagined that these people had

become familiarised to death, though the disease had now disappeared.

The bier used for interment lay by the road-side; and I saw them

washing a dead body by one of the wells in the public street, near some

fruit-shops. I moved quickly away from the spectacle; and the sound of

my horses’ hoofs echoed as I trod these lonely streets.

~Astrabad.~

Astrabad is a place of no great note. A dry ditch, and a decayed mud

wall about two miles in circumference, surround it; yet there are parts

in the interior, which bear no resemblance to a city, and remind one of

the country. It is the birthplace of the Kujurs, the reigning family of

Persia. Hanway tells us, that in the beginning of last century, it was

a considerable mart for trade; but its prosperity has declined, since

it has now only four caravansaries, and there are but twelve shops

for the sale of cloth. Its position is favourable, being but twenty

miles from the Caspian. The magnificent causeway of Shah Abbas, which

still exists, also keeps open its communication with the provinces

south of that sea. Its trade with Orgunje, or Khiva, is comparatively

trifling; there being but one or two annual caravans of eighty or a

hundred camels. The intervening country is very disturbed; goods may

be conveyed there with greater safety, by passing them up the eastern

bank of the Caspian, and landing in the latitude of Khiva. There is

hardly any trade between Astrabad and Russia. The climate of Astrabad

is humid and disagreeable. It rains so much that it is difficult to

keep a mud wall standing, and a very ingenious plan has been devised

to effect it. A mat of reeds is placed on the top of the wall, covered

with earth, and planted with lilies, or fleur-de-lis, which grow up

luxuriantly, and thus protect it from the rain. Though Astrabad be

in the same parallel as Koochan, the thermometer, which there fell

below the freezing point at sunrise, now stood at 60° in October. The

difference of elevation solves the problem. Astrabad produces oranges,

figs, lemons, and the fruits of hot countries.

~Arrival on the Caspian.~

From Astrabad I proceeded to the banks of the Caspian at Nokunda, a

straggling village about thirty miles distant. We might have come on

it sooner, but I had an introduction to the Khan of that place, and

preferred seeing the Causeway of the great Shah Abbas. It is yet in

tolerable repair, and appears to have been about twelve feet broad,

and formed of round stones. It runs through a thick forest, where

figs, vines, and pomegranates grow spontaneously. This road will,

in all probability, remain, like that of the Cæsars, as the most

lasting memorial of the munificent Abbas. Without it, the province

of Mazenderan would be quite impervious for many months. The Khan of

Nokunda received me very kindly, and was a communicative man. He was a

relation of the Khan with whom I had travelled among the Toorkmuns. He

gave me a Persian dinner, and many Persian compliments; and I assured

him, in return, that the guest of a night was the friend of a hundred

years.

~Adventures on the Caspian.~

The forests of Mazenderan had yet hid the Caspian; nor did I see it

till the following morning, and within half a mile of its beach. What a

noble sight it at length presented, after we had been so long looking

for it, and travelled from Delhi to its shores. It now rolled before

us like the ocean. Near us lay five or six small vessels, here called

“_gummee_;” and the Khan and myself embarked in one of them, and sailed

merrily out to sea, from which we viewed this beautiful coast. We

boarded a small Russian vessel, and the whole voyage was repaid by the

reception of the captain, who, on hearing I was a European, pulled off

his fur cap, and had a bit of sturgeon broiled for my refreshment. I

cannot say I relished it; but then, I had not had such a bow, and such

society, for many a day. These vessels are all of Russian build; they

carry two masts, and hoist square sails; their tackle is superior:

but there were no vessels of any great tonnage then in the harbour.

There is a prevalent belief, that the waters on the southern side of

the Caspian have been receding; and during these twelve years they

have retired about three hundred yards, of which I had ocular proof.

Over the reef which forms the Bay of Astrabad, the natives informed

me that the water of the Caspian is fresh, while in other places it

is brackish; but as this is the embouchure of the rivers Atruk and

Goorgan, it may be readily accounted for. I did not leave the Caspian

without endeavouring to verify the opinions regarding its level, which

is clearly below that of the ocean. A thermometer, which boils at the

sea at 212-1/3°, here boiled at 213-2/3°, which, according to Humboldt,

would give a depression of 800 feet, which is much too great. I did

not, however, use proper water for the experiment, and we shall rest

satisfied simply with its being a corroboration of received opinions of

the depression of this inland sea.

~Gardens of Ushruff.~

I took leave of the Khan of Nokundu, and proceeded to Ushruff, which is

in Mazenderan, and one of the favoured seats of Shah Abbas and Nadir,

and which Jonas Hanway has so graphically described some ninety years

ago. All the fine buildings which he mentions have been destroyed,

though their architecture is such that they might have stood for

centuries. There is yet enough to leave a very favourable impression of

the taste of the Persian monarch; since it is evident that they have

been light and chaste, and in that keeping which ought to characterise

garden-houses. A superb basin, and all the aqueducts, are yet perfect,

and the cypress trees have attained a great height in their advanced

age. The situation of these gardens is beautiful; they command a noble

view of the Caspian.

~Fortunate escape.~

At Ushruf we met a party of pilgrims from Bokhara and Khiva, who joined

us at the caravansary. We learned from them, that the Russian caravan,

which had proceeded to Mangusluk, had been plundered by the Kirgizzes,

about ten days after leaving Khiva. But for the advice of the Vizier in

Bokhara, we should have accompanied that caravan; and had we succeeded

in passing through the town of Khiva, we should have met with the

catastrophe to which I have alluded, between it and the Caspian. The

pilgrims recounted the great hardships of their journey from Khiva to

Astrabad, where they had experienced much oppression from the Toorkmun

tribes. I had now to congratulate myself on having attended to the

advice that had been given.

~The plague.~

~Quit the Caspian.~

After we had proceeded a mile beyond Ushruf, we found the great

causeway barricaded, and a villager seated with a stick, to prevent a

trespass. This was the _board of health_ at Ushruf; for we now heard,

for the first time, that the plague was raging at Saree, the capital of

Mazenderan, and the town at which I had that day intended to halt. We

prosecuted our journey; but rested at a village two miles from Saree,

where our information of the existence of the disease was confirmed. I

was now on my road to Balfurosh, and its port on the Caspian,--a place

of some note, where I hoped to see more Russian vessels, and enlarge my

acquaintance with this sea and that people; but I made an immediate

alteration in my plans, and prepared for a precipitate retreat from

the shores of the Caspian and Mazenderan. Next morning I took the high

road to Tehran, and met with rather a staggering incident as we passed

outside the walls of Saree. Our road brought us into a burying-ground,

where two boys were digging a grave, as we passed, for two bodies that

lay near them. Such a scene filled me with horror; for the people had

died of the plague: but what was our astonishment to be addressed by

the grave-diggers, and beseeched, as good Mahommedans, to assist in the

usual ablutions of a corpse! “You shall have five ‘sahib kurans’ (about

three rupees) for your trouble,” exclaimed they. There was a silence

among us; no one gave an answer; and we soon found ourselves beyond

Saree, having quickened the pace of our horses. This town suffered so

severely from the plague in the preceding year, that there were not now

more than three hundred people in it, and most of them were persons who

had recovered from the disease; since the Persians bear an impression

that the plague cannot be taken more than once. There were now too few

people to admit of the disease spreading; but it no doubt lurked in

Saree. They informed me that it had been introduced by Balfurosh from

Astracan in the preceding year, and all my curiosity to see that place

vanished with the information.

~Notice of the plague.~

In our march we were joined by a native of Astrabad, who was proceeding

to Tehran; and he gave me some account of the plague, which had raged

last year. He had lost a son, and both he and his wife had caught the

disease. She was nursing a child at the time; and though she continued

to suckle it, the infant escaped. The disease did not reach its height

till the tenth day, and was invariably attended with delirium. This

person assured me, that he had the horror to see his own child dragged

to the door by eight or ten cats, whom he with difficulty scared away;

and affirmed it as his belief, that more people were killed by dogs

and cats, or died from hunger, under the disease itself. None would

approach an infected house, and no patient would even assist another.

The plague and human nature are the same in all countries, and the

affections and passions are never brought sooner to the test than in

that devastating disorder.

~Mazenderan.~

Our stay in Mazenderan was now soon to close. It is a disagreeable

country; and has so moist a climate, that the inhabitants are subject

to fevers, agues, dropsies, palsies, and many other diseases. The

people are sallow, and the children weak and rickety. It is a land of

snakes and frogs; but the snakes are not venomous, being of the water

species. They are to be seen twisting and turning every where, and

about the thickness of a good-sized whip. Almost at every pace your

horse disturbs some frogs, who scramble in vain for concealment even in

a country of bushes and shrubs. So great is the moisture, that the rice

crops are not cut, as in other countries. They mow the grain down near

the ear, and place it to dry on the stubble; for it would otherwise

rot. Mazenderan is a rich province. The sugar cane thrives in it; but

they do not appear to prepare it beyond the first stage, and sell it

as molasses. Cotton also grows luxuriantly, and silkworms are educated

every where. The fruit is good, and much of it grows wild. There are

whole woods of pomegranate trees; and the people collect the fruit,

and, after drying the seeds in the sun, export them as a rarity to

other countries.

~Peasantry.~

The peasantry, with a sickly, have yet a comfortable appearance. They

tie folds of cloth round their legs and fix them with a low shoe, and

lacing cords. They wade through their muddy roads with these, and tell

you they are superior to boots, since they may be dried in the evening!

The men wear dark clothes, and the women dress generally in red,--the

two colours which I suppose are easiest made. Many of the people wear

caps of felt, instead of lambskin. The houses of the country are buried

in vegetation; creepers, melons, and pumpkins are every where to be

seen resting on the roofs. Every house has a garden, and is surrounded

by a hedge of mulberries; most of them are elevated by wooden poles to

a considerable height from the ground, to prevent the bad effects of

moisture. The inhabitants pass the summer and autumnal months in the

hills, where they cultivate rice. They live in huts, and call such a

residence “yailak,” in distinction from “kishlak,” which they apply to

their permanent habitations.

CHAP. XVI.

JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA.--CONCLUSION OF THE NARRATIVE.

~Quit Mazenderan.~

At the village of Aliabad, which is twelve miles from Balfurosh,

we quitted the Causeway of Shah Abbas, and proceeded south to the

mountains, and entered the beautiful glen which is watered by the Tilar

river. We had a sight of the lofty snow-clad mountain of Dumavend

before leaving the low country. This valley extends for about sixty

miles, and is the greatest of the passes into Mazenderan. Shah Abbas

cut a road in the rock for about ten miles, which is yet passable,

though it has not suited the policy of his successors to repair it.

The horses frequently sunk girth deep into the mud; and if his present

Majesty knew but half the curses and maledictions heaped upon his head

and beard by the mule drivers, he would assuredly repair it for the

peace of his own soul. The scenery of this valley is most romantic;

the hills are covered with forest trees; and the rumbling noise of

the water, which was many hundred feet below the road, had an effect

that was most pleasing. About half way up the valley, we crossed the

rivulet by a bridge, called the “pool i sufued”, and left the rich

foliage of Mazenderan.

~Pass of Gudook.~

We finally cleared the valley by the pass of Gudook, which leads up to

the table land of Persia. The word “Gudook,” in Toorkee, means a pass.

Our ascent from the dell was continued and gradual; and at Feerozkoh

we were again six thousand feet above the sea. On either side, as we

approached the pass, the precipices rose in grand abruptness, and the

narrowness of the road had led to its being fortified in former years.

This is a scene of romance, and the strains of Furdoosee, the Persian

Homer. The cave of the “Dev i sufued,” or white demon, was pointed out

to us, as well as the spot where he was slain by the valiant Roostum.

Some fellow travellers, whom we had picked up by the way, spouted

verses from the Shahnamu, and I was more than once amused with their

ruminations. They did not dream of the lively imagination of a national

poet, but were regretting the degeneracy of the present age, which had

no giants and Roostums, as in times that had gone. The top of the pass

was very cold; and in winter this is said to prove sometimes fatal to

the traveller. Shah Abbas has here erected a bath and a caravansary,

but they are both in ruins.

~Gudook the “Pylæ Caspiæ.”~

It appears to me that the pass of Gudook may be identified with the

“Pylæ Caspiæ,” or the Caspian gates, through which Alexander the Great

pursued Darius. Their distance from Rhages or Rei, which lies near

the modern city of Tehran, is said to have been a two days’ march,

and the journey is ninety miles. I have before observed that this is

the greatest of the passes into Mazenderan; and we have seen that it

is hallowed by Persia’s greatest muse. By this road Alexander reached

Hecatompylos, from which he advanced into Parthia. On the way he

attacked the _Taburi_; and it is a very extraordinary fact, that, in

the modern coinage of Mazenderan, that province is yet denominated

_Taburistan_.

~Feerozkoh.~

From the pass of Gudook we journeyed in a cheerless valley pent in by

bare hills; at the end of which stood the village of Feerozkoh, under a

naked rock and fort about 300 feet high. This place put me in mind of

Bameean, since many of the houses were excavated in the hills, where

the inhabitants keep their flocks in winter. The climate is severe, and

the snow lies for five months in the year. I observed a great change in

the appearance of the inhabitants, who had now red and rosy cheeks. I

know not whether our elevation from the lowlands of Mazenderan, might

have an effect in the boiling of meat; but it took twice the usual

time to cook my pilao at Feerozkoh; nay, the water was boiled up before

the meat was ready. The flesh might have been tough, and an old sheep

of the flock had, perhaps, fallen under the knife of the butcher.

~Cure for the taste of quinine.~

It is said that the natives of Mazenderan are the most simple of all

the Persians, and we had some amusement at the expense of one of our

fellow-travellers, who applied for medicine to arrest an intermittent

fever. I gave him quinine, and afterwards took occasion to ask him how

he liked its bitter taste. “It has no taste,” replied he; for he had

swallowed it along with the paper in which it was packed up.

~A Koord.~

We made three marches to Tehran, a distance of ninety miles, halting

by the way at the hovels of caravansarais, which the traveller finds

in this part of Persia, where he alights in the same room with his

horse. The country was arid, bleak, and miserable, and the number of

villages most limited. We had no signs of approaching the metropolis

of a country. An incident occurred near Baumein, the last stage, which

should not be omitted: one of my “yaboos,” or ponies, had sunk under

his load, and I went into a village to hire another; I succeeded in my

suit, and paid the price of the animal to a Koord with whom I made the

bargain, and was about to resume my journey:--“Will you not purchase

my mule,” said he, “in exchange for your worn-out ‘yaboo,’ and give

me the difference?” I entered into conversation, and found that the

Koord took me for a native of Khorasan, and it was therefore useless

to tell him I was an European. I certainly wished for his mule, and as

I looked at it he said, with considerable solemnity,--“Now, as we are

both _good_ Mahommedans, let us conclude a bargain and not cheat each

other.” I added, “Be it so,” and after a little conversation we settled

all matters. His mule had, as I afterwards found, a broken back, and

my yaboo had an incurable disease; but then it was as apparent to the

Koord as it was to myself. Such was the settlement of a bargain between

two _good_ Mahommedans, who resolved to act fairly by each other; nor

is Persia the only country where such arts are practised.

~Vexations of a traveller.~

~Arrival at Tehran.~

On the 21st of October I was astir a little after midnight, to proceed

with as little delay as possible to the capital of the King of kings,

but what did my speed avail me? We had not got many yards from the

caravansary before one of the loads tumbled from the mule, and while

putting it right another was kicked off by a horse. We had repaired

these disasters in a night as dark as Tartarus, and were about to

advance, when it was discovered that one of the other ponies had

strayed, and, what was more alarming, the very one, on which all my

notes, maps, and papers had been packed. My tongue clove to the roof

of my mouth, at the announcement of such a piece of information,

among thieving Koords, after all the difficulties of the journey had

apparently terminated. A search of half an hour recovered the strayed

animal, and I trotted on with all speed to the gate of Tehran, which I

reached at noon. I proceeded to the mansion of the British mission and

presented myself at the outer door, as a “Firingee.” I was soon met by

Sir John Campbell, the envoy at this court, and spent with him and his

agreeable family a few happy and pleasant days, marked by the utmost

hospitality and kindness.

~Presentation to the Shah.~

After being introduced by the Envoy to the “pillars of the state” the

cabinet ministers of Persia, I had the honour of being presented to his

Majesty, on the 26th of October. Having seen the Great Mogul himself,

and the monarchs of Cabool and Bokhara, with many other exalted

personages, I was gratified to find myself in the court of Persia. The

“kibleh alum,” or attraction of the world, (so the king is styled,) sat

in a hall of mirrors, and when yet beyond the light of his countenance,

we drew up and saluted. We then advanced, and again saluted; and

his Majesty returned it by calling aloud, “Khoosh amudeed,” you are

welcome. We now ascended a few steps, and found ourselves in the

presence of royalty. “_Dumagh i shooma chak ust_, are your brains

clear?” exclaimed his Majesty with a sonorous voice; on this we drew up

in a corner opposite to where the Shah sat, and returned the compliment

by a salute. Sir John Campbell, Captain MʻDonald and myself composed

the party, and the ministers stood on each side of us. The Shah sat

at a distance of about forty feet, and a display of crystal, arranged

with as little taste as in a shop, separated us from the King of kings.

The chandeliers hung so thickly from the roof, that they completed the

resemblance, and before any conversation had passed we were instructed

to hold our swords, lest they might fracture the mirrors let into

the wall behind us. “Does he understand Persian?” said his Majesty,

to one of his ministers. “_Bele, bele_, yes, yes,” was the reply “he

speaks Toorkee, Afghanee, Hindee, Persian, &c. &c.;” though I should

have been soon at fault, had the Shah selected his dialect. “You have

made a long and difficult journey,” commenced his Majesty; and such

was the affability and engaging manner of this illustrious personage,

that I felt myself at once free from embarrassment, and in the closest

conversation with the “Asylum of the World.” He desired me to enumerate

the cities which I had visited, and I ended the long list by saying,

that the favour of God had at last brought me to his august capital.

He exclaimed in a tone of surprise, “Why, a _Persian_ could not have

done so much. But what led you to undergo the dangers and fatigues

of such a journey?” I replied, that it had been curiosity. “Did you

travel as an European?” I told him I did so. “It must have cost you

much money;” but his Majesty had a hearty laugh when I told him that we

owed our release among the Toorkmuns to two gold ducats and a little

tea. “Have you taken notes of your journey?” said the Shah. “Yes,”

replied I, “I have measured the mountains, examined the roads, and

sounded the rivers.” “These people are lions,” exclaimed the astonished

monarch. “_Bele, bele_,” echoed his ministers, “they are tigers, they

are Roostums.” “Give me a sketch of the affairs of Cabool,” continued

the King, “tell me the power of the chief and his brothers;”--with all

of which I complied, adding, as a courtier, that the ruler owed his

power to the Persians he retained in his interests. He made enquiries

as to their tribe and number, on which points I satisfied his Majesty.

The Shah then put like questions on the power of all the chiefs

between India and Persia, questioned me about the road over the Hindoo

Koosh, and particularly on the capability of the Oxus, which he called

the Jihoon, and seemed to consider the greatest river in the world:

he mentioned the deserts which it passed, asking if they could be

traversed by an army. His Majesty next spoke of the people of Bokhara,

and asked if they were alarmed at the approach of Abbas Meerza to their

frontiers. Need I give the answer: I told the King that they trembled.

He smiled at my account of the Priests or Moollahs, and gave a look of

contempt, as I mouthed the name of the King, the “Ameer ool Momineen,”

the Commander of the faithful. “Did you try horse-flesh while among

the Uzbeks?” was the next question. I replied that I did so, and it

was not unpalatable. “But how got you from among the Toorkmuns?” said

his Majesty once more. “I threw the dog a bit of meat, and escaped his

jaws.”

After a little break in the conversation, the Shah, with some interest

in what he said, enquired for the greatest wonder which I had seen in

my travels. The opportunity was too favourable in so vain a court,

and I replied in a loud voice, “Centre of the universe, what sight

has equalled that which I now behold, the light of your Majesty’s

countenance, O attraction of the world!” The Shah gave a nod of

applause, which was taken up in a buzz of approbation by the pillars

of the state, and evinced the royal and ministerial gratification.

“But,” continued the King, “what city did you most admire?” I required

a precise answer after such adulation. I told him that Cabool was the

paradise of our travels. He asked particularly for Balkh, and the

modern condition of that “Am ool bulad,” or mother of cities.

“You were presented to the Prince-royal,” said the King; “And I

received much condescension at his Royal Highness’s hands,” replied I;

“he sent me with a Khan through the country of the Toorkmuns.” “Tell me

what you say of Koochan;”--which gave me an opportunity of delighting

the old monarch with the detail of his son’s success, heightened by the

formidable account which I gave of the strength of the fallen fortress.

“Will the ‘Naib Sultanut,’” so he called Abbas Meerza, “be able to take

Shurukhs, and reduce the Toorkmuns in that neighbourhood?” “Certainly,”

replied I, “they will fall at his feet.” “Will the place support his

army?” I then enumerated its resources. One of the ministers, by

way of adding to the information desiderated by his Majesty, stated

that Shurukhs was the garden of Adam, who used to come from Ceylon

(Serendib) and till it daily! I had heard the tradition, but it had

not entered into my statistical details for his Majesty’s information.

“What is your opinion of my son’s army,--is it efficient?” I assured

his Majesty that it was so. “But tell me your most candid opinion of

its merits.” I added, that the clothes and accoutrements of the troops

were worn out, but that no Asiatic power could in these days resist

such an armament, and that they were now flushed with success. His

Majesty again returned to my own affairs, and asked whither I was now

proceeding. I told him, to India. He made no further enquiries into my

objects for travelling. “How did you travel in Toorkistan?” asked the

Shah. I told him that my conveyance was a camel, at which he smiled.

After some desultory conversation and complimentary speeches between

the Shah and the Envoy, we left the presence of the King of kings with

the same bows and ceremonies that we had approached it.

Futtih Ali Shah has by no means the appearance of an old man, though

his age must be upwards of seventy. His voice is full and sonorous,

and he sits erect, with much dignity. His dress was remarkably plain,

and of black cloth, which was not becoming, nor did it show off to

advantage his beard, that wonder of the East. I should not be surprized

that this monarch outlived his son Abbas.[18] It is said, that he has

recourse to _the essence of pearls_ and precious stones, which he uses

as tonics, to support his declining strength, and in which the Oriental

faculty have great faith. The moderns apply these gems to other

purposes; and the Shah of Persia deserves some credit as being one of

the only persons I have heard of who turns them to a useful purpose.

~Return to India.~

I now found myself poised between Europe and Asia; and though I

had informed his Majesty that I purposed returning to India, I had

every inclination to prosecute my way to Constantinople, now distant

but twenty days’ journey. Would that I had followed the bent of my

inclinations; since I afterwards found that I had been summoned to

Europe from that city. I felt, however, that the objects of the journey

had been accomplished, and it only remained for me to return to India,

and arrange the materials which I had gathered. I therefore quitted

Tehran on the 1st of November, and freely admit that I did so with

regret, after a ten days’ enjoyment of the friendly society which I had

met.

~Route to the coast.~

On my way to the coast, I took the route of Isfahan and Shiraz

to Bushire, and viewed by the way the tomb of Cyrus, and those

imperishable remnants of antiquity, the ruins of Persepolis. This

route and country have been too often described to require even a

passing remark; nor do I offer to present my views and picture of the

inhabitants, after the inimitable sketches that have appeared in Hajee

Baba, which, with a due deduction for the thread of the tale, appeared

to me both just and correct. I have since perused Mr. Fraser’s Travels

in this country, and venture to record, as far as I am able to judge,

that they contain the most faithful account of Persia which has been

published in modern times. Were the facts and opinions which have

been recorded by that able and intelligent traveller more generally

received, we should have ere this come to more correct notions of

the weak state and tottering condition of this empire, and a juster

appreciation of its weight and influence in the scale of nations.

~Quit Persia.~

At Bushire, I found that Mr. Blane, the resident in the Gulf of Persia,

had kindly delayed the departure of the Honourable Company’s ship of

war the Clive, till I arrived. I lost no time in embarkation, and

finally quitted Persia on the 10th of December. Our voyage to India

was pleasant, and Capt. Macdonald, the commander of the Clive, took

every opportunity of making it varied and agreeable. If we found that

“Oman’s dark blue sea,” and its barren shores, have been the theme

of exaggerated praise in the imagination of the poet, we had yet

gratification in a glimpse at the far-famed emporium of Ormuz, and the

rugged rocky coast of Arabia, with the romantic cove of Muscat and the

dreary shores of Mekran. We anchored in the harbour of Bombay on the

18th of January, and passed the rest of that month in quarantine; after

which I proceeded without delay to Calcutta, to lay the result of my

travels before the Governor General, Lord William Bentinck.

~Conclusion.~

I shall not pause to reflect on the feelings with which I again set

foot in India after so long and weary a journey. In the outset, I

saw every thing, both ancient and modern, to excite the interest and

inflame the imagination,--Bactria, Transoxiana, Scythia, and Parthia,

Kharasm, Khorasan, and Iran. We had now visited all these countries; we

had retraced the greater part of the route of the Macedonians; trodden

the kingdoms of Porus and Taxiles; sailed on the Hydaspes; crossed the

Indian Caucasus, and resided in the celebrated city of Balkh, from

which Greek monarchs, far removed from the academics of Corinth and

Athens, had once disseminated among mankind a knowledge of the arts

and sciences, of their own history, and the world. We had beheld the

scenes, of Alexander’s wars, of the rude and savage inroads of Jengis

and Timour, as well as of the campaigns and revelries of Baber, as

given in the delightful and glowing language of his commentaries. In

the journey to the coast, we had marched on the very line of route by

which Alexander had pursued Darius; while the voyage to India took us

on the coast of Mekran and the track of his admiral Nearchus.

A

GENERAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL

MEMOIR

ON PART OF

CENTRAL ASIA.

The Personal Narrative of the journey has closed, and I now proceed to

describe the objects, both general and geographical, that appear to

deserve notice. It will be seen that the line of route has traversed

a portion of India, Cabool, Tartary (Toorkistan), and Persia; and I

might appropriately follow the same arrangement in my descriptions. It

is not, however, my intention to recapitulate the labours of others,

not to dwell upon what is already before the world; I have therefore

confined myself to that which is new and inviting. My maps will

rectify many positions in these countries, and even remove various

and vast ranges of hills; but the general account of each province in

the kingdom of Cabool has been graphically given in Mr. Elphinstone’s

valuable work on that country. My field lies in the untrodden paths

beyond Hindoo Koosh, among roaming Tartars and deserts, cheered, as

they certainly are, by many smiling and fertile oäses. If my reader

will place the maps of the journey before him, he will perceive that

I only treat of countries which I have visited: there is an exception

in the fifth and sixth chapters of the first Book, regarding the

sources of the Indus and the foreign communications of China, which

the interest of the subject will, I believe, justify. In the last two

Books, I present the report, nearly in the same state that I submitted

it to the Supreme Government of India. The form may not be best

adapted to convey information to the public; but in such a shape the

authenticity will, perhaps, entitle it to greater notice. For reasons,

which it is not necessary to explain, I have had to abridge this and

other portions of my work.

NOTICE

REGARDING

THE MAP OF CENTRAL ASIA.

The results of my survey of the countries between India and the Caspian

Sea are exhibited on the face of the map: the data on which these

results rest require to be stated, that others may be enabled to judge

of the authenticity of the document.

The instruments used were, a sextant, of nine inches radius, by

Gilbert, and the patent surveying compass of Schmalcalder, divided

into 360 degrees. With the sextant the parallels of latitude were

determined, when practicable, either by a meridian altitude of the sun,

or the elevation of the pole star; with the compass the bearings or

angles of the country were observed. The time of travelling was noted

on the spot, from a valuable chronometer watch by Arnold.

The rate of marching, after various trials by astronomical observation,

was found to be as follows:--

1st. On horseback, over a level country, such as the Punjab, or regions

eastward of the Caspian, _without a caravan_, 30 furlongs, or 3-3/4

miles per hour.

2d. On horseback, over a broken or mountainous country, such as lies

between the Indus and Cabool, and accompanied by mules lightly laden, 3

miles per hour.

3d. On camels, over a flat country, such as Toorkistan, about 3800

yards, or 2 miles 300 yards per hour; protracting in every instance the

great inflexions of the road, and correcting them by peaks or notable

land-marks in front or rear.

The rate of a camel’s march requires some further notice, since I took

much pains to ascertain it, and am not without a hope that it may prove

useful to others. Twenty-two camels in “kittar,” or string, that is,

following and tied to each other, cover a space of 115 paces of 2-1/2

feet, or 94 yards. They march over this space in 90 seconds of time;

that is to say, they travel at the rate of 76-2/3 paces per minute, or

3833 yards per hour, thus:--

76-2/3 paces a minute.

60 minutes.

----

4560

40

----

4600 paces.

2-1/2 feet.

------

3)11,500 feet.

------

3833 yards.

------

Camels move quickest at night, or in the cool of the morning, and flag

after a march of twenty-five miles. I have, therefore, taken the even

number of 3800 yards as my standard of protraction. I cannot agree with

Mr. Macartney, that camels move at the rate of 2-1/2 or 2-3/4 miles an

hour. Volney informs us that the Syrian camel travels at the rate of

only 3600 yards, or even lower than the standard which I have assigned;

and that great traveller cannot be far from the truth. In a _sandy

country_ I used the following expedient to ascertain the rate of the

camel, and the result presents a satisfactory approximation.

A string of 7 camels moves over its own } 26 seconds.

ground in }

10 42

7 28

8 35

8 37

12 50

-- ---

52 218

-- ---

Each camel in string occupies about 13 feet; so that 52 camels cover

676 feet, which gives a rate of about 3700 yards an hour _in soft

ground_; thus:--

sec. feet. sec.

If 218 : 676 : 3600. Ans. 3700.

That the rates of marching now recorded approximate closely to the

truth, is undeniably established by my protraction to the city of

Bokhara, which fell within 30 miles west of the meridian of 64° 55′

east longitude, the position assigned to it by the Russian mission.

In Macartney’s map it stands in 69° 10′, and was altered by Mr.

Elphinstone to 62° 45′; though that gentleman observes he was not

satisfied with its position. The latitude of Bokhara I found to be

39° 43′ 41″ north; but its position, according to others, is somewhat

different.

By L^t. Macartney 37° 45′ North.

By Mr. Elphinstone 39 27

By Major Rennell 39 25

By Anthony Jenkinson 39 10

I also found a remarkable coincidence with the correct longitude,

in my protraction through the Toorkmun country, from Meshid to the

Caspian Sea. Setting out also from Lodiana in India, which stands

in 75° 54′ east longitude, and 30° 55′ 30″ north latitude, the

protraction to Peshawar was nearly coincident with the position of

that city as determined by the Cabool mission. They assigned to it

the longitude of 71° 45′: I have placed it 71° 33′: it stands in 34°

9′ 30″ north latitude. The relative position of Cabool from Peshawur

has been altered, as well as the ranges of the mountains; but it is

unnecessary to detail the various changes which an inspection and

comparison of the map will readily point out. With the assistance of

Mr. John Arrowsmith, whose maps have already secured to him a just

approbation[19], the materials of my survey have been incorporated with

the latest geographical information: this will greatly enhance the

value of the maps, which have been drawn by Mr. Arrowsmith himself, and

carefully engraved under his own superintendence for this work; nor

will it in any way conceal the later information, since my own line of

route has been particularly marked and distinguished from that of other

travellers.

The following original observations of latitude it seems advisable to

record. The asterisk marks those which were observed at night.

Lodiana, on the Sutledge Lat. 30° 55′ 30″

Junction of the rivers Sutledge and Beas,

at Huree 31 9 50

City of Lahore (south gate) 31 34 52

Ramnugguron, the Chenab 32 19 33

Pind Dadun Khan, on the Jelum 32 34 53

Rotas, in the Punjab 32 58 2

Jane ka Sung, in the Punjab 33 41 8

Attok, on the Indus 33 54 46

Peshawur (of Macartney) 34 9 30

Cabool (south quarter) *34 24 5

Balkh (obs. 17 miles west) *36 48 0

Oxus, at Khoju Salu *37 27 45

Kurshee, in Toorkistan *38 51 50

Bokhara (centre and mean of 3 obs.) *39 43 41

Meerabad, near Karakool 39 21 51

Charjooee (south bank of the Oxus) 39 0 30

Bulghooee, in the desert *38 39 21

Khoju Abdoola, on the Moorghab *37 36 15

Shurukhs (by the sun) 36 31 0

Shurukhs (by the pole star) *36 32 10

Meshid (west quarter) 36 15 44

Camp among Goklan Toorkmuns 37 21 57

Koord mulla, on the Caspian 36 46 25

Tehran (capital of Persia) 35 40 0

GENERAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL

MEMOIR.