Margaret, who married her kinsman, Thomas Ker of Smailholm, who thus
came into Ferniehirst by marriage. The eldest son of this union was
Sir Andrew Ker of Ferniehirst, whose death took place about 1545, when
he was succeeded by his eldest surviving son, Sir John, who deceased in
1562. The next in succession was that Sir Thomas Ker of Ferniehirst,
the adherent of Queen Mary, to whom reference has been made, and who
died in 1586. His eldest son, Sir Andrew, was created first Lord
Jedburgh in 1622, and there were three successive Barons Jedburgh,
the fourth who bore the title, being Robert Ker of Crailing, the
nephew of his predecessor, and the representative of the male-line of
Ferniehirst. By a special contract it was arranged that failing direct
issue the title and estate should fall to the Earl of Lothian. On the
death of Robert fourth Lord Jedburgh without heirs, the Master of
Newbattle, son of the Earl of Lothian, succeeded, and as ultimately he
became second Marquess of Lothian on the death of his father in 1703,
the present (1926) tenth Marquess includes among his titles that of
Baron of Jedburgh.
XI
THREAVE CASTLE
Threave Castle, Kirkcudbrightshire, is a ruin connected with the famous
Douglas family, and is a lofty stronghold on an island of the river
Dee, less than two miles west of Castle Douglas. There is no landward
approach to the Castle, and it can only be reached by wading through a
ford on the eastern branch of the Dee, which will land the adventurous
visitor at a short distance from the southern point of the island, and
at a few yards from the ruin. On each side of the island the river
is so deep that it can only be traversed by a boat; and a wide ditch
(formerly a march or moat) connected with the Dee, makes the access to
Threave Castle still more difficult. The exact situation has been thus
graphically described:--“The island, which is quite flat, extends about
500 paces northwards from the Castle, and is about half this distance
in width, forming a fine pasture meadow of nearly 20 acres in extent.
The river protects the Castle on the west, and on the other sides a
strong wall with a sloping face and round towers still surrounds it,
forming a courtyard on the south and east sides. The round tower at
the south-east angle is entire, and is 9 feet 2 inches in internal
diameter, and three storeys high, with three loop-holes in each
storey.” Though now in a ruinous condition, the plan of the Castle may
yet be traced, and evidently it has been a structure of considerable
strength, intended for defence.
There are many traditions connected with this interesting ruin, though
some of them are not confirmed by credible history. It is supposed
to have been built by Archibald Douglas, an illegitimate son of “the
good Sir James Douglas,” in the latter half of the 14th century. In
1369, this Archibald was appointed Lord of Galloway, holding large
possessions in that quarter; and in 1385 he became third Earl of
Douglas, and was known by the cognomen of “the Grim,” because of his
relentless nature. Threave Castle was erected by him on the site
of a fortalice that had belonged to Alan, the last native Lord of
Galloway; and in the time of the eighth Earl of Douglas (about 1450)
it is recorded that there was accommodation within Threave Castle
for a thousand men-at-arms. Ultimately, upon the fall of the Douglas
family, it was forfeited to the Crown, and came into the possession
of the Maxwells, Earls of Nithsdale, who were relations of the Earl
of Douglas. Archibald the Grim died at Threave Castle in February
1401, and it was in 1455 that the Castle passed away from the Douglas
family. This was largely because of a sad tragedy that took place there
three years before, though the authenticity of the details have been
seriously questioned.
One of the oldest families in Galloway was said to be the Maclellans of
Bombie, who claimed the title of Lords of Galloway. They were certainly
a powerful race in 1301, and controlled a large portion of the ground
in the district. Pitscottie in his gossipy history tells how one of
the family, known as “the Tutor of Bombie,” had offended the Earl of
Douglas in some undefined manner, and Douglas captured him, imprisoned
him in Threave Castle, and afterwards hanged him on the battlements.
It is stated that Sir Patrick Gray, brother-in-law of the Tutor,
arrived at the gateway of the Castle with an order from the King--James
II.--demanding the release of Maclellan, but the Earl disregarded this
mandate, and proceeded with the murder. Meanwhile William, the eighth
Earl, had been slain by the dagger of the King at Stirling Castle, in
February 1451-2, and the Douglases were declared forfeited traitors,
and their lands devastated by the Royal Army, and several of their
Castles demolished.
[Illustration: THREAVE CASTLE _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._]
The last stronghold retained by the ninth Earl of Douglas was Threave
Castle, and James II. determined to lead his forces against it in
person. He, therefore, marched into Galloway at the head of a numerous
army, and made preparations to besiege the Castle. The story is told
that a certain blacksmith, called M’Kim, seeing the weakness of the
King’s artillery, offered to make a special cannon that would destroy
the place. The proposal was accepted, and M’Kim took his assistants
to the Three Thorns at Carlinwark, and there he speedily constructed
the large cannon called “Mons Meg,” which was first used in warfare
against Threave Castle, and is still preserved at Edinburgh Castle.
The story has been doubted, though the tradition yet survives in
Douglasdale, and the place where the cannon was made is pointed out at
Buchan’s Croft. Two of the granite balls from Mons Meg were found in
the wall of Threave Castle.
The Maclellans rose to great power in Kirkcudbright. Long after the
siege of Threave Castle, one of the family, Robert, was created Lord
Kirkcudbright in 1633, by Charles I., for his services to the King in
Ireland; and this title was held till the death of the eighth Lord in
1832, when it became dormant.
When Threave Castle was forfeited by the Earl of Douglas, it was
conferred on the Maxwells, another prominent Border family, who were
afterwards ennobled with the title of Earls of Nithsdale, and were made
Keepers of Threave and Stewards of Kirkcudbright. In the time of the
Civil War the then Earl of Nithsdale, at his own expense, held Threave
Castle for Charles I., and armed, paid, and victualled 80 men-at-arms.
He made a spirited defence as long as he could; but at last the
King, finding he could not assist him with reinforcements, sent him
word to apply for the best terms he could obtain for himself and his
garrison, and to resign the stronghold to the enemy. The Earl had to
submit, and thus the Castle passed temporarily out of his control.
But the office of Keepers of Threave Castle was retained by the Earl
and his successors, and they continued to receive the dues that had
been contributed by every parish in Kirkcudbright for centuries,
consisting of cattle for the sustenance of the Earl and his soldiers.
Even in 1704, when the Earl of that time sold the estate of Threave, he
continued to receive this perquisite, and remained Keeper of Threave
Castle as his ancestors had been. At length the fifth Earl of Nithsdale
took part in the Jacobite Rising of 1715, his chief opponent being the
first Marquess of Annandale.
That nobleman was the head of the Johnstone Clan, one of the most
powerful in the Border district, and an ardent supporter of George I.,
who had succeeded to the throne. As Lord-Lieutenant he had received
intimation that Dumfries was to be attacked and captured by the
Jacobites, so he set forth to defend the burgh. While Annandale was on
his way thither he was surprised by a party of the rebels, numbering
200 horse, commanded by the Earls of Nithsdale, Winton, and Carnwath,
Viscount Kenmure, and other noblemen and gentlemen, who, as he stated
were “providentially prevented” from capturing him, and he reached
Dumfries in safety, where measures were adopted for the defence of the
place, which were successful.
Twice did the Jacobites attack Dumfries, but failed in their efforts
and retired. The Rising was practically terminated by the Battles of
Sheriffmuir and Preston; the leading Border noblemen were captured,
and the fifth Earl of Nithsdale was attainted for treason, deprived
of his title, and also of the office of Keeper of Threave Castle. In
1747, after the next Jacobite Rising, the Hereditary Jurisdictions were
abolished, and thus the connection of the Maxwells with Threave Castle
was definitely terminated. There is a romantic story told of the last
Earl, which is thus narrated in the “Scots Peerage”:--
“William, fifth Earl of Nithsdale and fourteenth Lord Maxwell, born
in 1676, was served heir to his father, ‘Robert, Earl of Nithsdale,
Lord Maxwell, Herries, Eskdale, and Carlyell,’ 26th May 1696, and
heir-male and tailzie to Robert, second Earl of Nithsdale, 19th May
1698. He joined the rising in favour of the Chevalier de St. George,
and being taken prisoner at Preston in November 1715, was sent to the
Tower of London. He pleaded guilty of high treason, 19th January, and
was sentenced to death in Westminster Hall, 9th February 1716, and his
honours were forfeited. His wife left Terregles in December to join
him. Her coach was stopped at Grantham by snow, but she, though of
delicate constitution, pushed on to London on horseback with her maid,
Cecilia Evans, and her groom, their horses at times almost buried in
drifts. On 13th February she gained access to the King and begged for
her husband’s life, in vain as she believed, though according to Lady
Cowper, ‘a reprieve for him was signed the very night of his escape
on 23rd February (the day before that fixed for the execution).’
Taking advantage of the free access to his room allowed to Nithsdale’s
friends, Lady Nithsdale, with her London landlady, Mrs. Mills and a
Mrs. Morgan, was constantly in and out of it that day, and when at
dusk she led him out in female dress, the guards, confused at all this
coming and going of the women, let him pass, taking him for one of
them. Having delivered him into the care of the maid, Evans, who took
him to a friendly house known to Mrs. Mills, Lady Nithsdale returned
to his room in the Tower, and after remaining a short time to disarm
suspicion, she passed out with loud farewells at the door. Nithsdale
was eventually hidden in the Venetian Embassy (without the Ambassador’s
knowledge) by one, Michel, a servant of the house, who, after a day
or two, conveyed him, dressed in the Ambassador’s livery, to Dover.
Hence he crossed to France, and his wife, after a journey to Scotland
to secure important papers, joined him at Lille before 25th September
1716. Henceforth the two lived, often in great poverty, at the
Chevalier’s Court at Rome, where Nithsdale, who was made a Knight of
the Thistle by his prince, 31st December 1725, died on 20th March 1744.
“His wife was Winifred Herbert, daughter of William, third Lord and
first Marquess of Powis, who had followed James II. into exile. The
marriage, according to the contract, dated Paris, 2nd March 1699, was
to be celebrated between that date and the following Easter. Lady
Nithsdale died at Rome in May 1749, ‘very old and in great esteem.’ Her
last years were made more easy by money sent by her son when he got
possession of the family lands.”
XII
DUNOON CASTLE
Scotland is peculiarly favoured by the formation of her river system,
as well as by the configuration of her coasts. So thoroughly is her
coast-line indented, either by lochs or fiords, or by rivers and
estuaries, that no part of the central portion of Scotland is far
distant from the sea. On the eastern shore the Firths of Forth and Tay
provide ready access to the ocean; and though the Clyde is the only
important river on the west coast, the vast fiords of Lochfyne and Loch
Linnhe carry the shores of Scotland into the heart of the country.
The intervention of the island of Ireland has protected the west
coast of England from the encroaching ravages of the Atlantic Ocean;
and the east and west coast-lines of that portion of Great Britain
do not therefore present the same contrast to each other as Scotland
affords. But the north-western shores, exposed to the fury of the
raging sea, and subjected to the denuding influence of the chief tidal
river, have been worn into numerous bays and lochs, into myriad isles
and peninsulas, which bestow a different character entirely upon the
scenery.
Whilst the northern lochs might maintain a rude and migratory people,
whose occupation as fishermen would prevent an indissoluble attachment
to the soil, the true seat of civilization necessarily became fixed
upon the fertile banks of the great western river, the Clyde, whose
broad stream could carry the vessels of the early settlers far into the
centre of Scotland. The very success of these hardy pioneers, and their
increasing wealth, would inevitably bring in their wake the pirates and
sea-rovers of less-favoured lands to live by rapine and pillage upon
the fruits of native labour. The Clyde, as the main highway of ingress
to central Scotland, became the battle-scene upon which all contests
for supremacy between the possessors and the western invaders took
place.
The very names of those adventurous spirits who thus strove to seize
upon the most fertile part of Scotland, with varied fortunes, are both
numerous and diversified. Caledonians, Picts, Scots, Romans, Irish,
Norwegians have all held temporary possession of these shores and have
left upon the land appropriate tokens of their sway. As time has rolled
on these have subsided into the great past, and become but as shadowy
memories:--
“Name follows name
For ever more,
As swift waves shame
Slow waves before.”
The fierce warfare of olden days now attracts a new race of warriors;
and sceptical historians demolish generations with the stroke of a
pen. Yet even the poet--least combative of men--clings, despite the
influence of reason, to what some tell him are the dear delusions of
youth. To him the whole scenery of the Firth of Clyde speaks eloquently
of the Ossianic heroes who fell “in the midst of their renown”:--
“I behold thy towers, O Selma! and the oaks of thy
shaded wall;
Thy streams sound in my ears; thy heroes gather around.
Fingal sits in the midst, and leans on the shield of
Trenmer;
His spear stands against the wall; he listens to the songs
of his Bards,
The deeds of his arm are heard, and the actions of the
King in his youth.”
And as he pauses beneath the shade of Balclutha, or lingers by the
shores of Comgall, he may remember and fulfil the prophecy which
concludes the “War of Caros”:--
“The sons of the feeble hereafter will lift the voice on
Cona,
And looking up to the rocks, say, ‘Here Ossian dwelt.’
They shall admire the chiefs of old, and the race that
is no more,
When we ride on our clouds, Malvina, on the wings of
the roaring winds,
Our voices shall be heard in the desert; and we shall sing
on the winds of the rocks.”
[Illustration: DUNOON CASTLE _Valentine & Sons, Ltd._]
Had there been no other attraction, the beauty of the scenery of this
part of Scotland might have drawn these conquering hosts towards
it. The devious way which the Clyde pursues, carries it through
nearly every description of Scottish scenery. From its source in the
distant Lead Hills until it loses itself in the Atlantic the river
takes many a curious turn. Its way lies northward, westward, and then
southward, and it thus encloses a portion of the most fertile Scottish
districts. Leaving the mountainous spot where it originates, it passes
through a pastoral country, which is succeeded by a mineral-bearing
land, giving place to a great commercial centre, from which point its
scenery frequently presents at one view all these characteristics. The
development of trade and manufactures in this quarter has transformed
the Clyde into the main pathway from Scotland to the western and
southern parts of the world. The argosies of “Ormuz and of Ind” float
peacefully upon her waters; and the richly-freighted fleets of foreign
nations sail tranquilly past the castled steeps and ancient fortalices
which once frowned defiance to every foe.
“How pleasing when war’s dread alarms,
The martial shout, the din of arms,
The trumpet’s dread-inspiring blast,
In peaceful slumber sinks at last;
When men from strife enjoy release,
And hail the happy days of peace.”
The life of lawlessness, of terror, and of bloodshed which our
ancestors endured may be fitly studied by examining the Castles and
houses they inhabited, and the towns they built. And though the
ruthless hand of Time has frequently destroyed all save the faintest
traces of these erections, yet there are few so utterly obliterated
as to be silent upon their history. There are merely slight relics
now remaining of the ancient Castle of Dunoon, yet these sufficiently
record its story.
On a promontory upon the Argyllshire side of the Clyde, opposite to the
Cloch Lighthouse, stood Dunoon Castle. As a post of observation the
site has been admirably chosen, since it commands a good view of the
Firth in all directions. The Renfrewshire coast on the southern shore
turns southwards, forming the Bay of Inverkip, with Wemyss Point as
its southmost extremity. Far away down the channel the islands of the
Cumbraes may be seen dividing the waters, and forming, with Bute, which
is barely discernible, the main thoroughfare for deep-sea vessels.
The projection of the peak upon which the Castle stood brings into
view the Cowal Shore, with the village of Innellan and the terminating
height upon Toward Point. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Castle
Hill may be found the sylvan retreat of “Morag’s fairy glen,” and the
classic locality of Balgay (or Baughie) Burn.
Northward from the Castle, until the entrance to Holy Loch is reached,
the shore is lined with a succession of villages and hamlets which
are extended almost continuously. Dunoon, Kirn, Hunter’s Quay, and
Ardenadam are so intimately joined that it is difficult to discover
their boundaries. On the opposite shore of the Holy Loch, quite
invisible from Dunoon though historically associated with it, stands
Kilmun, where for many years was the chief burial-place of the Argyll
family.
The district of Cowal, in which Dunoon Castle stood, figures
prominently in early history. Its position at the entrance to the
narrower portion of the Firth of Clyde naturally attracted the notice
alike of invaders and defenders, and the commanding situation of
the promontory at Dunoon makes it probable that a warlike post was
established here in pre-historic times. It cannot now be ascertained
whence the Scots were originally derived; but it is certain that they
had an established kingdom before the period of the Roman invasion.
From Strathclyde it is supposed that a number of them emigrated,
and, landing on the north-eastern shores of Ireland, founded there
a Scottish colony, bestowing the name of Scotia upon the country of
their adoption. One of the warriors who led them in this campaign was
called _Cairbrea-Riada_, and the portion of land awarded to him for
his bravery was called _Dal-Riada_, the fields of Riada, and nearly
corresponded in position and extent with the modern County Antrim.
In process of time the Scots in Ireland--known as Dalriads from the
name of the founder of the colony, had increased in numbers so much
that they had to extend their borders. The traditional accounts which
their ancestors had left attracted their attention, and a large body
of them returned to their original home on the Clyde, calling this
revived district by the name of their Irish settlement, Dalriada. Thus
there were two Scotias in existence, with a Dalriada in each. The
leader of these wanderers was Fergus, son of Erc, a lineal descendant
of Cairbrea-Riada, and the country which he selected for his new
settlement was the land formerly held by his ancestors, which included
all Argyllshire and far up the Clyde. Fergus was accompanied by his
two brothers, Lorn and Angus, and they divided the land between them,
expelling the Picts, who had over-run it after Riada’s emigration. So
far as can be discovered these brothers form a triumvirate for the
government of the territory during their lives; but their kingdom was
divided by their children after their death.
Separate families selected different districts, although all were
submissive to one central authority. The descendants of Lorn inhabited
the tract of country still named after their founder, who was the
eldest of the three brothers. The grandsons of Fergus--Gabrau and
Comgall--chose respectively the districts of Airgialias (Argyll) and
Comgall (Cowal), while the children of Angus peopled the Islands of
Jura and Islay. The Dalriadic Kings thus ruled over a very extensive
territory, bounded on the south by the Clyde, on the north by Loch
Linnhe, and on the east by the peaks of Drumalbin. Their capital was
at Dunadd, near Crinan, and their coasts were defended by a series of
forts which formed centres of civilization, and convenient rallying
points in time of war. One of the most important of these is supposed
to have been the original Castle of Dunoon.
The ancient name of this spot is said to be derived from _Dun-nain_,
meaning the green hill. That this position would be selected as a point
of defence is almost certain, for there are few places so well adapted
by natural conditions to form a protective fort. And if the Dalriadic
Kings founded a vitrified Castle here, it must have been about the year
503 A.D., although of that erection no trace now remains.
For 340 years these Scoto-Irish Kings ruled this quarter of the island,
frequently encountering their warlike neighbours the Picts in battle,
and maintaining, though not greatly extending, their territories. At
length Kenneth Mich Alpin, the last of the Dalriadic Kings, made good
his claim to the throne of the Picts through right of his grandmother,
Urguisa; and he assumed the Crown and reigned over a united people.
Removing his capital to Forteviot, in Perthshire, he directed defensive
operations on the Clyde, the Forth, and the Tay, and sought to advance
his kingdom south-eastwards to the fertile fields of the Lothians. In
859 A.D. Kenneth fell in battle, near Dundee.
The chief enemies of Scotland at this period were the Sea-Kings from
Scandinavia and Denmark, who assailed the country on both sides.
Finding their access to Scottish territory on the east coast curtailed
by the vigilance and energy of Kenneth, they transferred their
operations to the west, and strove to enter the land by the Firth of
Clyde. Towards this spot, therefore, the defensive power of the Scots
was directed; and in these circumstance the importance of Dunoon as
a post of observation would be great. But the successors of Kenneth
were less skilful or less warlike than he; and the Danes under Olaf,
assembling a fleet at Dublin, sailed up the Clyde unopposed, and
attacked and captured the ancient citadel of Dumbarton, returning past
the helpless fort of Dunoon unopposed and triumphant.
All the Kings of Scotland since his time claim Kenneth I. as their
ancestor, though long years passed before he found a valiant successor.
Somerled, Thane of Argyll, assembled his fleet at the Mull of Kintyre
in 1153, and sailed up to Renfrew in the absence of Malcolm IV.,
taking possession of both Dunoon Castle and Dumbarton Castle; but
when the young King returned from France in 1160 he took measures to
recover Renfrew. Somerled was defeated and slain at Renfrew four years
afterwards.