SAN ROQUE--SINGULAR TITLE OF "THE CITY
AUTHORITIES"--SITUATION--CLIMATE--THE LATE SIR GEORGE DON,
LIEUTENANT GOVERNOR OF GIBRALTAR--ANECDOTE ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE
CHARACTER OF THE SPANISH GOVERNMENT--SOCIETY OF SPAIN--THE
TERTULIA--THE VARIOUS CIRCLES OF SPANISH SOCIETY TESTED BY
SMOKING--ERRONEOUS NOTIONS OF ENGLISH LIBERTY AND
RELIGION--STARTLING LENTAL CEREMONIES.
San Roque is the nearest town to the British fortress, and distant from
it about six English miles. A mere village at the period of the last
siege of Gibraltar, it has gradually increased, so as at the present day
to cover a considerable extent of ground, and to contain a population of
upwards of six thousand souls. The title of _City_ has even been
vicariously bestowed upon it; all public acts, &c., emanating from its
different authorities, being headed in the following singular
manner,--"The President and Individuals of the Board of health of the
_City of Gibraltar_, which, from the material loss of that place, is
established in _this of San Roque_ within its territory, &c."[28]
The Corregidor, Alcalde, and other authorities, are also designated as
of Gibraltar, and not of San Roque.
The town is pleasantly situated on an isolated knoll, the houses
entirely covering its summit, and extending some way down its Northern
and Western slopes; but towards Gibraltar and to the East, the ground
falls very abruptly, so as to form a natural boundary to the town.
Though quite unsheltered by trees, and consequently exposed to the full
power of the sun, San Roque possesses great advantages over Gibraltar in
point of climate; for, whilst its elevation above all the ground in the
immediate vicinity secures to it a freer circulation of air than is
enjoyed by the pent-up fortress, it is sheltered from the damp and
blighting levant wind that blows down the Mediterranean, by a low
mountain range, known as the Sierra Carbonera, or Queen of Spain's
Chair, which is distant about a mile from the town, and stretches in a
North and South direction, between it and the sea.
The baneful _Khamseen_ of the desert is not more dreaded by the nomad
Arab, than is this pestiferous wind by the desk-bound inhabitant of the
Fortress. No sooner does it set in, than a dense cloud gathers round the
isolated mountain, and, clinging with mischievous pertinacity to its
rugged peaks, involves the Town in a damp, unwholesome atmosphere during
the whole period of its continuance. At the same time, the breeze,
repelled by the precipitous cliff that bounds the rock to the Eastward,
sweeps in furious blasts round both its flanks, driving clouds of sand,
flies, and blue devils into every dwelling, and Rheumatism, Asthma, and
Lumbago, into the bones, chests, and backs, of their inmates.
San Roque, being free from this intolerable nuisance, is looked upon as
a sort of Montpelier by the Gibraltarians, and, at the period of which I
write, was very much resorted to by the mercantile classes, who fitted
up comfortable "boxes" there, that afforded them an agreeable retreat
after their daily labours at the desk were concluded.
The late Sir George Don, whilst Lieut. Governor of the Fortress,
invariably passed several months of the year at San Roque; and his noble
hospitality, his ever open purse, and constant employment of the poor in
works of utility, secured to him the love and respect of all classes of
its inhabitants. Indeed, such was the gallant Veteran's influence in the
place, that I may literally say, not a stone could be turned nor a tree
planted without "His Excellency's" being first consulted as to the
propriety of the measure.
My duty requiring me to be in frequent attendance upon the Lieut.
Governor, I generally made one of Sir George's party, whenever he fixed
his Head-quarters at San Roque; and on one of these occasions a
circumstance occurred that throws such a light upon the extraordinary
character of the Spanish Government, that I am tempted to relate it
before proceeding further.
I was seated one morning tête-à-tête with the General, waiting the
arrival of the Messenger with letters, &c. from the Fortress, when we
observed a guard of Spanish soldiers pass by the window, headed by an
officer on horseback, and having a prisoner in charge; and to our
astonishment they stopped at the General's door. We were waiting with
some little curiosity to learn the cause of this extraordinary visit,
and were lost in conjectures as to whom the delinquent could be, when
the door of the apartment was thrown open, and in rushed the prisoner
himself, exclaiming with great excitement and the volubility of his
nation--"General, you doubtless know me--I am Prince Napoleon Lucien
Murat--I throw myself upon and claim your protection--I have been
entrapped by the vile Spanish government" (this was soon after the
restoration of the "_inclito_" Ferdinand). "Invited by the Commandant of
San Roque to pay him a visit, I was seduced to leave Gibraltar, and on
arriving at the Spanish lines was seized upon and hurried off under an
escort, to be imprisoned at Algeciras, where I should have been
murdered, but that fortunately I succeeded in persuading the officer
charged with my safeguard to pass through San Roque on his way and allow
me to speak to you. He unwittingly acceded to my request, and I now
place myself under the protection of the British flag."
"Monsieur," replied the General, with no slight astonishment, "this is
indeed a very extraordinary, and apparently most unjustifiable
proceeding; but I am sorry to inform you that I can afford you no
_protection_. The British flag does not fly at San Roque; and I myself
reside here only by permission of the Spanish government. My good
offices,--as far as they can be of service in liberating you,--shall not
be wanting; but, in the mean time, pray let me hear further particulars
of this plot against your liberty; and Scott,"--turning to me--"have
the goodness to go to the Spanish Commandant, and request he will favour
me with a few minutes' conversation."
I proceeded as directed to the quarters of the Colonel of the Regiment
of Granada, which at that time formed the garrison of San Roque, and was
ushered in to the Commandant, whom I found at his toilet, and not a
little surprised at my early visit.
Now _Don Alonzo del Pulgar Apugal_--for such were the Colonel's
patronymics--was the least likely man in the world to be employed in a
case of abduction. He was a soft, open-hearted, honeycomb-headed, fat,
good-natured man, of about five and forty, without two military ideas,
and not half a dozen on any other subject. What little knowledge he did
possess, was of dogs, guns, charges, and wadding. But, at the same time,
I knew the Don to be a gentleman, and incapable of acting the part with
which he was charged. When, therefore, I explained the circumstances
that had led to my waiting upon him, ere his unnameables were yet
finally braced round his portly person, he was most excessively
astonished, and repelled with indignant warmth the vile accusation of
being the abbettor--indeed, the principal mover--in the infamous
plot that had placed Prince Lucien's body at the tender mercies
of six Spanish bayonets, and his neck in jeopardy of the
_garrote_[29]--"_Valgame Dios!_" he at length exclaimed, "surely the
poor young man cannot have deceived himself by taking _al pié de la
letra_, our usual Spanish compliment;--for now I recollect, when he was
introduced to me at the _dog-meeting_" (he meant at the fox-hunt) "some
time back, we had some conversation about shooting, and I said my dogs
and guns were at his disposition[30] whenever he wished for a day's
sport.--_Pobrecito!_--it is possible I may thus unconsciously have been
the cause of this unfortunate affair."
Such, however, did not turn out to be the case, for the Prince had
presented himself at the Spanish lines, provided with both dogs and gun,
and accompanied by a sportsman to show him the country.
The kind-hearted Colonel hurried down to Sir George, buckling his sword
on as he went, and was immediately on his arrival taken into a private
room to consult as to what could be done in the business, as well as to
hear the officer of the escort's edition of the story. Mons. Murat
meanwhile remained in the study with one of the general's Aides de Camp
(my friend Budgen of the Royal Engineers) and myself, and to us, who
were yet unacquainted with the heinous nature of the crime of which he
was accused by the Spanish government, appeared to be most unnecessarily
alarmed, and to rely but little on the friendly interference of Sir
George; on which indeed he had as little claim as upon the protection of
the British flag, beyond the jurisdiction of which he had voluntarily
placed himself:--for, considering perhaps that such a step would have
been beneath his dignity as an ex-prince of the Two Sicilies, he had
neglected to pay the customary compliment of calling upon the Governor
on arriving at the Fortress, and was consequently unknown.
After sundry exclamations of regret at having suffered himself to be
made a prisoner without a struggle, he asked if there was a door of
communication with the street running at the back of the house; and, on
my replying in the affirmative, he proposed that I should lend him my
military frock coat, and ask an English officer who had accompanied him
and remained outside to meet him there with his horse--"_alors_"--said
he--the reckless valour of the father showing itself--"_avec le sabre de
Tupper[31] je m'en--de ces laches d'Espagnols_." This of course was out
of the question; as however unfairly he might have been kidnapped--and
of which we had yet to be convinced--it was clear that Sir George's
honour, on the faith of which he had been permitted to enter and remain
in the house, would have been compromised by our connivance at his
escape from it.
We did all we could to quiet his apprehensions until the return of Sir
George, who informed him that it appeared from the statement of the
officer of the escort, that orders had been received from the general
officer commanding at Algeciras to arrest him, should he, on any
pretence, again pass the limits of the British garrison.
The kind-hearted old General expressed the utmost regret at his having
been so imprudent as to trust himself a second time in Spain (for only a
month before he had been conducted to Gibraltar under an escort from
Malaga)--and hoping that his own consciousness of innocence would
relieve him from any fear as to the result of the affair, gave him a
letter to General José O'Donnell, who commanded in the _Campo de
Gibraltar_; in which letter he requested, as a favour to himself, that
every respect and attention might be paid to the young Frenchman:--a
favour he had every right to ask, from one who had received so many more
important ones at his hands.--
General O'Donnell, in his reply, stated that he had but acted in
conformity with instructions received from Madrid--that Monsieur Murat
had some months previously landed at Malaga from a vessel which, when on
its passage with him to America, had been obliged to put into that port
to repair some slight damage experienced in a gale of wind--that, during
his stay there, he had publicly expressed his hostility to the king's
government, and, instead of proceeding to his destination when the
vessel again put to sea, he had appeared rather disposed to establish
himself in that (not over-loyal) city.--The Spanish government viewed
these circumstances with a very suspicious eye; particularly as his
elder brother had, but a few years before, been one of the _aspirans_ to
the constitutional crown of Spain;--and he had consequently been sent
with a _guard of honour_ to Gibraltar, from whence opportunities for
America are more frequent than from Malaga.
In compliance with Sir George Don's request, General O'Donnell promised
that every attention should be paid to the youth's comfort, consistent
with his safe custody, until instructions as to his disposal should be
received from the capital.
The cause of the violent proceedings adopted by the Spanish government
turned out eventually to be, that this scion of Despotism had sung
_Riego's hymn_ all the way from Malaga to Gibraltar; some of his _guard
of honour_ even joining in chorus! and that at Estepona he had, through
the influence of a _colonato_,[32] persuaded an old barber who had
shaved him--he being the ex-trumpeter of the _Nacionales_--to play the
forbidden tune to the astonished fishermen of the place!
The sequel of this state affair was, that Monsieur Murat remained in
durance at Algeciras, until a vessel bound to the United States offered
him the means of crossing the Atlantic.
I used to find that an occasional visit to San Roque made a very
agreeable break in the monotony of a garrison life; for what place, let
its attractions be ever so great, does not become dull when one is _per
forza_ obliged to make it a residence? Even London, Paris, or Vienna,
would not stand the test.
The society of San Roque was not of a very _exclusive_ kind; for but
little of the _sangre azul_[33] of Spain flowed in the veins of its
inhabitants. Nevertheless, there, as elsewhere, some families were to be
met with who looked upon themselves as of a superior order to the rest
of the community; condescending, however, to mix with them on the most
friendly footing at their nightly _Tertulia_. This is a kind of "at
home," announced to be held sometimes once or twice a week, sometimes
nightly, at the houses of the leading families of a town; the _reunion_
taking place after the theatre--should there be one.[34]
In large towns it frequently happens that several houses are open to
receive company on the same night. But, although it is considered rather
a slight to neglect showing yourself at those to which you have the
entrée, it is by no means necessary to do more than that; it being
optional with you to pass the evening at whichever house you find most
attractive, after going the round of all. Even the ladies who open their
houses for _Tertulias_ consider it necessary to send some of the members
of their family to the rival assemblies; always with a message of regret
at not being able to go themselves, their own party being _so very
crowded_ that they could not possibly absent themselves from it, without
giving offence to their numerous guests.
It must be confessed that the Tertulia is a very agreeable mode of
associating; that it offers great variety, without being attended with
the least formality, and entails but slight expense on the entertainers;
iced water and _sospiros_[35] being, excepting on gala nights, the only
refreshment offered to the company.
There is very little difference observable in the various grades of
Spanish society. The same incessant loud talking amongst the females
distinguishes the whole; dancing, singing, cards, and games of forfeits,
are the amusements of all. Even dress, until of late years, did not
furnish a distinction, excepting, in a slight degree, by the costliness
of the materials.
But French taste, with its monstrous and ever-varying eccentricities,
has corrupted that of the upper ranks of Spain, and occasioned the
graceful and becoming national costume to be in a great measure laid
aside.
The great distinction that marks the various grades of Spanish society,
is the latitude given to _smoking_. In the first circles, it is
altogether prohibited. In the second, it is confined to a back room, or
suffered in the patio.[36] In all others it is freely permitted.
It is a positive libel on the ladies of Spain to say that they smoke
under any circumstances; though the disgusting habit prevails amongst
the females of Mexico and other transatlantic states that formerly were
included in the empire of _both worlds_.
A good letter of introduction insures a foreigner admission into the
best Spanish society. He is taken the round of all the tertulias, and,
on receiving from the lady of any house the assurance that it is _at his
disposition_, may present himself there as often as he pleases. Should
this form be withheld, he may take it for granted--despite the
whisperings of self-love--that his future attendance is not wished for.
The need of some little acquaintance with the Spanish language caused
but few English officers to enter into the society of San Roque; but
living there as much as I did, and being often placed in communication
with the authorities, I derived from it a source of great amusement.
Indeed, to Lady Viale[37] and her amiable family I am indebted for many
agreeable evenings; her house uniting the pleasing informality of
Spanish with the solid hospitality (I use the term in our eating and
drinking sense of it) of English society.
It would be an error to depict the manners and customs of the
inhabitants of San Roque, as those of the natives of Andalusia
generally; since, in their various pursuits, the former are so
frequently thrown in contact with Englishmen and other foreigners
settled at Gibraltar, that they cannot but have acquired some of their
habits, and imbibed some of their ideas. Nevertheless, there is a
self-conceit about all Spaniards, that makes them particularly slow in
throwing off their nationality; and the difference is consequently not
so great as might naturally be expected. A proof of this is afforded by
the circumstance of the English language not being spoken, nor even
understood, by fifty of the inhabitants of San Roque; although it is
evidently so much their interest to acquire it.
Their intercourse, on the other hand, (and this is observable in all the
sea-port towns of Spain) has given them strangely ill defined notions of
_English liberty_, and equally extraordinary opinions of our religious
tenets; and has filled their minds with highly constitutional ideas of
the iniquity of taxation, and most conscientious scruples as to the
propriety of supporting a national church. I fear, indeed, that
deistical, nay I believe I should say Atheistical, opinions prevail to a
great extent amongst the upper orders of Spaniards, though they still
continue to observe--if not the penances--all the superstitious
ceremonies and absurd fooleries of the Romish church.
One of their extraordinary lental ceremonies I became acquainted with
under very _alarming_ circumstances. I was awaked one fine April
morning, during one of my earliest visits to San Roque, by a most
furious fusillade, which, considering the unsettled state of Spain at
that particular juncture, I naturally enough concluded was occasioned by
some popular commotion. The appearance of my servant in answer to a
hasty summons of the bell immediately quieted my apprehensions on that
score, however; the broad grin that distended his round Kentish
countenance plainly bespeaking the absence of all danger;--though what
occasioned his unwonted merriment puzzled me to divine. In reply to my
inquiries touching the firing, the only answer I could obtain was,
"They're a shooting of Hoodah."--"And who the deuce is Hoodah?" said I,
"and what has he been about?"--But on these points he was quite as
ignorant as myself; so dressing with all possible despatch--the
astounding rolls of musketry, and as it appeared to me of field
artillery also, continuing the whole time I was so occupied, seeming
indeed to spread to all parts of the town--I issued forth, armed up to
the teeth, and on turning the corner of the street saw, to my horror, a
human figure suspended in the air, and reduced almost to a bundle of
rags by the incessant firing of--as I supposed--a party of soldiers
posted in a cross street.
This surely is "making assurance doubly sure," thought I. Why the poor
devil can't have an inch of sound flesh in his body after all this
peppering. The bang, bang continued incessantly, however, accompanied by
roars of laughter, until at length the ill-fated Hoodah was in a blaze.
A crowd of men and boys, armed with guns, pistols, and blunderbusses,
now rushed from the cross street, (where they had been concealed from my
view) rending the air with _vivas_. At this same moment a loud peal of
music burst upon me from a neighbouring church, and from its portal
issued a long train of priests preceded by the Host. With these came the
recollections of its being Easter Sunday, and of the guttural
pronunciation of the Spanish _J_; and quite ashamed of my war-like
demonstration, I retreated to my house yet quicker than I had issued
from it.
The distant firing continued some time longer; and I afterwards learnt
that the effigies of no less than seven _Judases_ had that morning been
severally hanged, shot, and burnt, to satisfy the holy rage of the
devout inhabitants of San Roque.