Department of the Interior
Ethnological Survey Publications
Volume IV, Part II
THE HISTORY OF SULU
By
NAJEEB M. SALEEBY
Manila
Bureau of Public Printing
1908
CONTENTS
PART II
Page.
Preface 117
Chapter I
Geographical Description of the Sulu Archipelago 121
In general 121
Island of Sulu 127
Geographical features 127
Principal coast settlements 129
Districts of the island 131
Town of Jolo 133
General plan, buildings and streets 133
Trade 137
Population 144
Chapter II
Genealogy of Sulu 147
Translator's introduction 147
Sulu author's introduction 147
Descendants of Asip 148
Descendants of Tuan Masha'ika 149
Original and later settlers of Sulu 149
Sulu historical notes 151
Introduction 151
Sulu notes 152
Chapter III
Rise and Prosperity of Sulu 155
Sulu before Islam 155
Introduction of Islam and the rise of a Mohammedan
dynasty in Sulu 158
Establishment of the Mohammedan Church in Sulu and the
reign of Abu Bakr 161
Early days of the sultanate 163
Successors of Abu Bakr 163
Figueroa's expedition against Sulu 164
Reasons for hostilities 168
Rule of Batara Shah Tangah 171
Figueroa's expedition against Mindanao 172
Moro raids 175
First Spanish conquest and occupation of Sulu 177
Sulu supremacy in the Archipelago 179
Successors of Bungsu 179
Reign of Sultan Alimud Din I 180
Reign of Sultan Israel 187
Moro pirates 191
Treaty of 1836 with the Sultan of Sulu 194
Text of the treaty 194
Ratification of the treaty by the Queen Regent
of Spain 196
Expedition of Governor Claveria 199
Visits to Jolo of Captain Henry Keppel and Sir
James Brooke 201
Chapter IV
Decline of Sulu 205
Expedition against Jolo 205
Treaty of April 30, 1851 209
Translation of the Sulu text of the treaty of 1851 212
Politico-military government of Mindanao and adjacent
islands 214
Chapter V
Sulu Under Spanish Sovereignty 221
Occupation of Jolo 221
Rule of Sultan Jamalul A'lam 224
Cession of possessions in Borneo to British North
Borneo Company 225
Treaty of July, 1878 226
Translation of the Spanish copy of the treaty 227
Translation of the Sulu text of the treaty 229
Rule of Sultan Badarud Din II 233
Struggle for the sultanate 237
Rule of Sultan Harun 240
Rule of Sultan Jamalul Kiram II 244
Chapter VI
Conclusion 247
Political status of Sulu at the time of Spanish
evacuation 247
Spanish policy 249
Attitude of the Moros 249
Mistakes and difficulties of Spanish rule 251
Report of Baltasar Giraudier 254
Views of Espina 255
Purpose of Spain 256
Resources of Spain 260
Appendixes
Appendix I. The pacification of Mindanao by Ronquillo 269
II. The pacification of Mindanao 275
III. The Moro raids of 1599 and 1600 279
IV. Gallinato's expedition to Jolo 283
V. Olaso's expedition in 1629 289
VI. Corcuera's campaign in Jolo 291
VII. Obando's report on the preparations to be
undertaken to return Alimud Din to Sulu 305
VIII. Obando's report on the circumstances
attending the attempt to return Alimud
Din to Sulu 307
IX. Report on the occupation of Palawan and
Balabak 313
X. A brief report on the expedition to take
possession of Palawan 317
XI. The letter of the King of Spain to Sultan
Israel 319
XII. Letter from the captain-general of the
Philippines forwarding a copy of the treaty
of peace, protection, and commerce with Sulu 321
XIII. Royal directions relative to commerce with
Sulu, and the advisability of making
Zamboanga a free port 325
XIV. Camba's report on the circumstances
attending the treaty of 1836 and its bases 333
XV. Camba's report on commerce with Sulu and
the advisability of making Zamboanga a free
port 339
XVI. Communication from the governor of Zamboanga
to the supreme government of the Philippines,
relative to the treaty of Sir James Brooke
with the Sultan of Sulu 345
XVII. Communication from the supreme government of
the Philippines to the secretary of state,
relative to the treaty of Sir James Brooke
with the Sultan of Sulu 355
XVIII. Regulations relative to taxes and imposts
on natives and immigrants in Sulu 359
XIX. The protocol of Sulu, of 1877, between
Spain, Germany, and Great Britain 367
XX. The protocol of Sulu of 1885, between Spain,
Germany, and Great Britain 371
XXI. Decree of the general government in regard
to payment of tribute by Sulus 375
XXII. Royal communications relative to the rights
of foreigners to the pearl fisheries of Sulu 377
XXIII. Royal directions relative to the treatment
of foreigners engaged in pearl fishing in
the Sulu waters 383
XXIV. La Torre's views on the policy that should
be adopted in Mindanao and Sulu 385
Maps and Diagrams
Map I. The Sulu Archipelago Frontispiece
Facing page--
II. Sulu Island 128
III. Sketch of Jolo before 1888 134
IV. Sketch of Jolo at the present time 134
Diagram 1. Sultans and royal datus of Sulu 158
2. Datus of Sulu not descended from Abu Bakr 158
PREFACE
The first object sought in the search for the Genealogy of Sulu was
a knowledge of those significant historical events of Sulu which
antedated the Spanish discovery and conquest of the Philippine
Islands, the connection which those events might have had with the
earlier history of the other islands and the light that they might
throw upon the subject of prehistoric Malayan immigration to the
Archipelago. The tarsila (genealogies) [1] of Mindanao show that
events of considerable importance had occurred in the Archipelago,
especially in the south, long before the Portuguese or the Spaniards
reached Malaysia. Some tribes, such as the Samals, we were told, had
emigrated from western Malaysia to the Sulu Archipelago and Mindanao,
and indications were not wanting that probably other tribes, now
inhabiting the Philippine Islands, came from the same place. Further,
information was desired relative to the mohammedanization of Sulu and
the possible connection that such a movement might have had with the
introduction of Islam into Sumatra and Malacca.
The research so conducted was well rewarded. The history of Sulu
was traced as far back as the early days of its oldest settlements,
and the organization of the nation was followed back to the primitive
communities out of which the Sulu nation has grown. Records of early
Malayan expeditions and of communication between Sulu and Mindanao
were traced to the earliest missionaries who reached these Islands
by the way of Malacca, and through whom the sultanates of Mindanao
and Sulu were organized on plans similar to those of Malacca and
Palembang. A fuller account of the life history and work of these
missionaries will be given in a later paper of this series. We here
give only a narrative of the events in which they participated and
the part they played in making the history of Sulu proper.
Many difficulties were encountered in the effort to secure an authentic
copy of the Genealogy of Sulu. Several trips of 20 to 40 miles were
made in small Moro sailing craft to visit datus who were said to have
copies of this document. The Sulu authorities who had the manuscript
or copies of it denied this fact from time to time, but after two
years and a half of persistent endeavor and inquiry, the original
manuscript was procured from the prime minister of the Sultan of Sulu,
whose confidence was gained by a long period of intimate acquaintance
and frequent communication. Soon after that, the Annals of Sulu (the
Luntar) were obtained from the sultan and some facts of importance were
learned and made use of in the course of this work. Diligent effort was
further made to collect all interesting Sulu traditions and documents,
and most of the best informed Sulus living were interviewed. Of these
the author feels under special obligation to mention Sheikh Mustafa
bin Ahmad, formerly prime minister to Sultan Harun; Hadji Butu, prime
minister of the present Sultan of Sulu; Datu Pangiran; and Hadji
Mohammed Tayib, one of the principal advisers of the present sultan.
After the first object sought had been gained, it became apparent
that a general public interest in Sulu and Mindanao had been growing
rapidly. It therefore seemed advisable to complete the history of
Sulu up to the date of Spanish evacuation, for no such work has as
yet been published in the English language. It is of special interest
to Americans living in Mindanao and Sulu and of general interest to
Americans and others elsewhere to have a better understanding of the
Moros in general and to acquire some idea of the history of Islam
in the Philippine Islands. This the history of Sulu makes possible
for the reader in a most vivid and realistic manner. The history is
written without prejudice or bias, and events are related as they
appear in the light of facts, and by one capable of seeing things
from the standpoint of a Sulu as well as of a Spaniard.
Nothing reveals the true character of a nation, its capabilities,
tendencies, and resources, better than its history. There is no time
when such general intimate knowledge of a people is more interesting
and more needed than during the period of their regeneration, and
there can be no time when the history of the Sulus will be more
interesting than at present.
Besides the Moro sources above referred to, several authors in Spanish
and English have been consulted and quoted with due credit. Special
indebtedness must however be expressed to Col. Miguel S. Espina,
author of "Apuntes sobre Jolo," whose admirable work has been our
chief authority for the majority of the events which occurred after
the Spanish invasion of Sulu in 1578. Espina saw considerable service
in Sulu, was intimately acquainted with the Spanish administration of
Sulu affairs, and most of his information was derived from official
documents and other sources of equal authenticity. Most of the events
relating to the late period of Spanish occupation of Sulu have been
confirmed by personal investigation, and the Sulu view of every matter
of significance has been studied and understood.
A chapter on the geography of the Archipelago is presented first to
give a general idea of the geographical relations of the Archipelago
of Sulu, the location of its various islands and settlements, and its
commercial resources. Special attention has been given to accurate
spelling of names and the correct location of settlements and small
islands. Unusual pains have been taken to get satisfactory maps of the
Archipelago and Island of Sulu and sketches of the town of Jolo. These
will help the reader and add interest to the succeeding chapters.
In the Appendixes will be seen reprints of various documents, reports,
quotations and letters of direct and significant bearing on the history
of Sulu and Mindanao. They are arranged in chronological order and
are intended to complete the record and description of important
events in Moro history so as to throw light on the actual conditions
of life among the Moros, the political motives of the interested
powers, and the real state of affairs in Mindanao at the time of the
Spanish evacuation. The source from which each article is derived is
given in connection therewith. A considerable number of quotations or
chapters have been taken from "The Philippine Islands," by Blair and
Robertson, for which special obligation is hereby expressed. Many of
the official documents given could not be conveniently incorporated
in the text of the history proper, and are herein published, probably
for the first time. They include protocols, capitulations, official
letters, decrees, and correspondence relative to Sulu obtained from
the Division of Archives of the Philippine Islands. The originals of
the copies can be seen in Spain in the Indies Archives.
Some liberty has been taken in correcting the spelling of geographical
and other proper names in order to render the history uniform in
its orthography and to avoid confusion and misconnection of events,
persons, and places. The same system of orthography has been used here
as that used and described in Part 1 of Volume IV, Ethnological Survey
Publications. Diacritical signs to denote the long sounds of vowels
have, however, been very rarely used. The Arabic "hamzat," occurring
in Moro words has been expressed by an apostrophe; while an inverted
apostrophe has been used to represent the Arabic sound or character
"`ain," the eighteenth letter of the Arabic alphabet. Annotations
which occur in the original documents have generally been indicated
by letters, while those made by the author are denoted by figures.
Manila, January, 1907.
CHAPTER I
GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE SULU ARCHIPELAGO [2]
IN GENERAL
The Sulu Archipelago is a series of small volcanic islands which
extends in a northeast and southwest direction between the meridians
of 119° 10' and 122° 25' east, and the parallels of 4° 30' and 6°
50' north. It forms a continuous chain of islands, islets, and coral
reefs, which connects the peninsula of Zamboanga with the northeastern
extremity of Borneo and separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea. It
marks the southern line of communication between the Philippine Islands
and Borneo and is probably the chief route of former emigrations and
travel from Borneo to Mindanao and the southern Bisayan Islands.
The islands of the Archipelago are so disposed as to form several
smaller groups, the most important of which are the following: The
Basilan Group, the Balangingi or Samal Group, the Sulu Group, the
Pangutaran Group, the Tapul or Siasi Group, and the Tawi-tawi Group.
The Basilan Group is the first on the north and includes the Island
of Basilan and fifty-six small adjacent islands, all of which lie
north of the parallel of 6° 15' north and east of the meridian of
121° 19' east. This group, under the name of Basilan, constituted
the sixth district of the politico-military government of Mindanao,
organized by the Spanish Government in 1861. Since that date the
islands forming this group have not been recognized politically as
a part of the Sulu Archipelago.
Basilan is the largest island in the Archipelago. Its northernmost
point is about 10 miles directly south of Zamboanga. The island is more
or less circular in outline and has a radius approximately 11 miles
long. Its area is about 400 square miles. Two prominent headlands
projecting, one on the east and one on the west, give the island a
maximum length of 36 miles. The greatest width, north and south,
is 24 miles. The eastern headland is long and has a picturesque,
conical peak, called Mount Matangal, which rises about 648 meters
above sea level. This peak is a very prominent landmark, visible
to a great distance from all points in the Celebes Sea and in the
Straits of Basilan. The western headland is less prominent. It has
an isolated peak about 287 meters above the sea, immediately north
of the settlement of Pangasa'an. The position of this peak makes it a
conspicuous landmark to vessels entering the Straits of Basilan from
the Sulu Sea.
The surface of the island is high and hilly. Twenty-three peaks
are recognized, forming two distinct series or ranges, central and
peripheral. The central region of the island is an elevated tableland,
out of which rise a number of peaks forming the central series and
ranging from 609 to 1,019 meters above sea level. A thick forest covers
this region. The rivers are small and dry up in the dry season. Few
Yakans are to be found there, and their houses are isolated and far
apart. No cultivation is carried on in the interior. On the outside
of this region rises the peripheral series of hills or peaks which
lies parallel and near to the coast. With the exception of two,
all of these peaks are below 304 meters in height. The drop from
this line of hills to the coast is rapid in some places, and in
general the shore line is low and swampy and covered with mangrove
trees. The three largest valleys in the island are those of Gubawan
or Lamitan on the northeast, Kumalarang on the northwest, and Malusu
on the west. This region is generally considered fertile, but it has
a marked dry season and droughts are not rare.
The island is very rich in timber; all its hills and mountains are
forest-clad to their summits. Excellent boats are constructed on the
south and west coasts of the island which rival the Tawi-tawi boats
in every particular. A few Americans have started hemp and coconut
plantations on the north coast, but native cultivation is not extensive
and compares very poorly with that of the Islands of Sulu, Tapul, and
Siasi. Most of the cultivation on the island is carried on by Yakans,
the Samals living chiefly on the products of the sea. The staple
products of the soil are rice, tapioca, and corn. Ubi (a kind of tuber
used as food), camotes (sweet potatoes), and wild fruits abound. The
number of cattle is not inconsiderable, but horses are few. Most of
the settlements on the island are on the sea coast and lie on the north
and west coasts. The larger ones, beginning at Isabela and going east,
are, on the north, Isabela, Patasan or Balaktasan, Malu'ung, Nipa,
Lamitan, Tagima, and Kandi'is; on the east, Tambunan, Buhi-lubung,
and Ubung; on the south, Amalwi, Giyung, and Mangal; on the west,
Libuk, Kabkaban, Kanas, Malusu, and Pangasa'an; on the north, Bulansa,
Atung-atung, Batanay, and Panigayan. [3] The prominent chiefs of the
island live at Lamitan, Ubung, and Malusu, which form the principal
centers of native power. The old name of Basilan was Tagima, so called
after the name of the old settlement of Tagima mentioned above.
Isabela may be considered as the capital of Basilan. Its old name is
Pasangan, which is still the name of the stream at the mouth of which
it is built. The town is situated 4 miles inland, on the narrow channel
which separates Basilan from the small island of Malamawi. The channel
widens a little at this point and forms an excellent harbor. Under
Spanish jurisdiction it was a naval station with a dry dock for
gunboats. An aqueduct furnishes the town with fresh water brought
from a small stream in the neighborhood. The stone fort Isabel II,
built on the hill in 1842, commands both entrances of the channel. It
was designed to defend the town against the Moros. The abandonment
of the town as a naval station has led to its present decline. An
American sawmill planted there has been the chief source of lumber
supply for the town of Zamboanga and neighborhood.
The largest islands in this group, excepting Basilan, are Baluk-baluk
and Pilas, both of which lie west of Basilan. A narrow channel which
lies in the direct route leading from Zamboanga to Jolo separates
these two islands. Tapiantana, Salupin, Bubwan, and Lanawan are the
largest islands of the group south of Basilan.
The population of this whole group is generally estimated at 25,000. Of
these, 15,000 live in Basilan itself. The inhabitants of Basilan proper
are Yakans and Samals, while the adjacent islands are occupied entirely
by Samals. The Yakans are the aborigines of Basilan and extend farther
into the interior than the Samals.
Basilan never enjoyed political independence. Before Spanish rule
it was governed by Sulu datus and paid tribute to the Sultan of
Sulu. Under the datus, subordinate Samal panglimas [4] and maharajas
[5] had charge of the various communities or settlements. The Samals
of Basilan are at present stronger than other Samals and enjoy a
greater degree of liberty and self-government than their brothers in
the Tawi-tawi Group.
The Balangingi Group lies east of the meridian of 121° 28' east, and to
the south of the Basilan Group. It has nineteen islands, the principal
ones of which are Tonkil, Balangingi, Simisa, Tatalan, Bukutwa, Bulim,
Bangalaw. The islands of this group are small and low and do not exceed
38 square miles in area. Their inhabitants are Samals. The people of
Balangingi and Tonkil were notorious pirates. They built strong forts
and once surpassed all other Samals in power, political organization,
and prosperity.
The Sulu Group lies west of the Balangingi Group and north of the
parallel of 5° 46' north. Its western boundary may be sent at the
meridian of 120° 46' east. It consists of about twenty-nine islands
with a total area of 380 square miles. The principal island of this
group is Sulu. To the north of Sulu lie Pangasinan, Marongas, Kabukan,
Bubwan, Minis, Hegad, and a few others; to the east lie Tulayan,
Kapwal, and Bitinan; to the south, Pata and Patyan.
Tulayan lies north of Tandu and is separated from it by a narrow
strait. It has a good harbor on the southern side. It was ceded to the
English in 1763 by Sultan Alimud Din I out of appreciation of the favor
done in releasing him from prison in Manila and reinstating him as
Sultan of Sulu. The English, however, never made any use of the island.
Pata is, next to Sulu, the largest island of the group. It is
mountainous and well populated. The description of the Island of Sulu
is given separately at the end of this chapter.
The Pangutaran Group lies west of the Sulu Group and north of the sixth
parallel. It has fourteen islands and an area of 72 square miles. The
principal members of the group are Pangutaran, Pandukan, North Ubian,
Laparan, and Tababas or Cap. They are all low and flat with little more
than trees visible from the sea. They are surrounded by coral reefs
and sand banks, which in places form lagoons which can be entered only
at high water. The drinking water in these islands is brackish in the
hot season and has a black color during rains. Very often the people
go as far as the Island of Sulu to get good water. Pangutaran is the
fifth island in the Archipelago in size, being 11 miles long, north
and south, and 8 miles wide, from east to west. Its chief settlement is
Maglakub. Its northern and eastern coasts are the best populated. The
inhabitants of this group are chiefly Samals; few Sulus are found
mixed with them. Coconut trees and tapioca plants grow well in places.
The Siasi Group lies to the south and west of the Sulu Group, east
of the meridian of 120° 33' east, and north of the parallel of 5°
24' north. It has thirty-eight islands with an aggregate area of 77
square miles. Its population is estimated at 20,000. The principal
islands of this group are Siasi, Pandami, Lugus, Tapul, Laminusa,
and Kabinga'an. The first four are volcanic islands of some size;
the last two are low and flat. Tapul is the nearest island of the
group to Sulu. It is more or less round in circumference and rises
in the middle to a picturesque conical peak 505 meters above the
sea. It is about 5 miles in diameter and is separated from Lugus by
a very narrow channel. The island is 8 miles south of Sulu Island,
is well cultivated, and appears very attractive from the sea. It
supports a considerable population and has several fairly prosperous
settlements. The people are mostly Sulus; they are very warlike and
take great pride in their traditions.
The chief settlement of this island is Kanawi, where lives Sharif
Alawi, the strongest chief on the island. Buhangin Hawpu, Pangpang, and
Pagatpat lie on the southern coast, east of Kanawi. The settlements on
the western coast are, beginning at the south, Suba Pukul, Kawimpang,
Tigbas, Banting, Kutabatu, Bagus; on the northern coast, Kawimpang,
Pangdan; on the eastern coast, Sampunay, Tulakan.
Lugus is a larger island. Its long diameter extends 9 miles east and
west, and it has an area of 18 square miles. It is hilly and rough;
but the northern shore is fairly well cultivated.
The chief settlements are on the western coast. They are Basbas,
where Datu Amilusin used to live, and Bulipungpung. On the north lie,
beginning at the east, Gapas, Ba'it-ba'it, and Hawit, the place of
Maharaja Sharafud Din; on the east Kalu'ukan, the residence of Panglima
Salahud Din; and on the south Aluduyung, and the Island of Munupunu.
Siasi and Pandami are separated by a narrow channel which forms a
good anchorage for vessels. Siasi is prettier than Tapul in form
and is larger, but not equally wooded. It has an isolated, conical,
and beautiful peak in the center rising to a height of 509 meters
above sea level. The island is about 7 miles in diameter and has an
area of 39 square miles. Reefs and numerous islets form a fringe off
the east and south coasts and these teem with Samal houses. It is
thickly settled, fairly well cultivated, and has, in proportion to
its size, a considerable number of horses and cattle. The majority
of the people are Samals, but the chief rulers and some of their
retinues are Sulus. In this respect this island follows the general
rule governing all the larger islands of the Archipelago outside of
Sulu Island. The town of Siasi is on the western side. It lies on the
Pandami Channel and has a good harbor. A spring rising at the base of
the western slope of the mountain supplies the town with fresh water.
A detachment of Spanish troops occupied the town in 1882 and built
a stone fort and barracks. American troops were there from 1900 to
1904, when they were relieved by a detachment of the Philippine
Constabulary. An effort was made in 1899 by the present sultan,
Jamalul Kiram II, to retain Siasi under his own jurisdiction for
the establishment of a custom-house where he could collect duties
on foreign goods, as was formerly done by his father; but no such
rights were conceded to him. Siasi is a closed port at present. The
residents of the town are Samals and Chinese traders. They vary from
500 to 700 in number. The other settlements on the island are, on the
north, Siyundu, Pagatpat, and Manta; on the east, Pamungunan, Tanjun,
Sipanding, and Bulikulul; on the south, Dugu, Latung, and Musu; on
the west, Nipanipa, Jambanganan, Dungus, and Sablay; in the interior,
Kabubu, Ju, and Kungatad. Siasi and Laminusa are important centers
of pearl and shell fishing. About 2,000 Samals live on Laminusa.
Pandami is an attractive island. Its long diameter runs north
and south. Two round peaks, one at each end of the island, give
it the shape of a saddle and make a picturesque sight from the
sea. The people are chiefly Samals ruled by Sulu datus. Its best
settlements are on the west and south. The name given to this island
on Spanish maps is Lapak, which is the name of one of its southern
settlements. The northern extremity of the island is Diadia Point,
the northeast projection is Butun Point. The chief settlements on
the west are, beginning at the north, Subasuba, Tabunan, Pari'an
Pandami, Tubig-shina, Lahi, and Sibawud, which lies on a reef off
the southern point of the island. On the east lie Ambilan, Bakal,
and Lapak. Laminusa and Kabinga'an lie to the east of Siasi. They
are small but thickly populated by Samals. The chief settlements of
Laminusa are Tampan on the north and Kungkung on the south.
The Tawi-tawi Group lies to the south and west of the Tapul Group and
extends as far west as the Sibutu Passage. This is the largest group
in number and area, including eighty-eight islands with a combined
area of 462 square miles. Its population is estimated at 25,000. These
islands form two distinct divisions or subgroups, differing in both
extent and population.
The first or northern division includes Bangao, Sangasanga, Tawi-tawi,
Tandu-batu, and a large number of smaller islands, all of which
are rough, volcanic, mountainous, and very sparsely populated. The
second or southern division is a series of low, flat islands which
are smaller in area but more thickly populated than those of the
northern division. The principal names, beginning at the east, are
the following: Kinapusan, Bintulan, Tabawan, South Ubian, Tandubas,
Sikubun, Lata'an, Mantabwan, Banaran, Bilatan, Manuk-manka, and
Simunul. Extensive reefs and narrow channels and shoals separate these
islands from one another and from those of the northern division,
rendering navigation between them impossible except in vessels of
very light draft.
Bangao, Sanga-sanga, and Tawi-tawi are separated by very
narrow channels and are practically one island. Bangao forms the
southwest extremity and is substantially one solid rock which rises
perpendicularly to a height of 228 meters. It is a conspicuous landmark
to vessels going through the Sibutu Passage. The town of Bangao is
a military station and an open port; it has an excellent landlocked
harbor and a very poor water supply. The town has been occupied by
troops since 1882, but it has never attained any size or importance.
Tawi-tawi Island is a continuous range of hills covered by thick and
rich forests. The highest points in the range are the Dromedary peaks
(591 meters) lying about the center of the island. The length of the
island is about 34 miles and its greatest width 14 miles. It is next
in size to the Island of Sulu, but it is very sparsely populated. Its
chief settlements are Tungpatung, Balimbang, Lissum, and Bu'an on the
south coast, and Tawi-tawi, Tata'an, Butung, Tumhubung, Tumbaga'an,
Languyan, and Bas on the north. At Balimbang are built the best types
of Sulu and Samal boats. Good timber abounds in the neighboring hills,
and the little bay is transformed into a shipyard. The town used
to be a famous rendezvous for Samal pirates. Tata'an had formerly a
Spanish garrison; the present Moro town is a little distance to the
south of the ruins of the fort and is called Butung. It is built on
the hillside and commands a pretty view of the sea. It lies 100 miles
east of Lahat Datu, East Borneo. The anchorage is deep and safe,
being well protected by a large semicircle of reefs. A boa 30 feet
long was killed on the island in 1903. Rubber and gutta-percha are
found on this island. Tapioca and ubi are the staple products.
Sibutu lies in a little group of the same name, situated between
the Tawi-tawi Group and Borneo and at a distance of about 15 miles
from each. The Sibutu Passage separates it from Manuk-manka, the
southernmost island of the Tawi-tawi Group, and the Alice Channel from
Borneo. This island did not lie within the limits of the Philippine
Islands as defined in the Treaty of Peace of December 10, 1898. It was
ceded by Spain with Kagayan Sulu, by a separate treaty in November,
1900. Its close proximity to Borneo renders it a convenient stopping
place for small Moro boats navigating between Borneo and Sulu. Sitanki,
an island and town, is the trade center of this group, and has just
lately been made an open port.
ISLAND OF SULU
GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES
Sulu is an island of irregular shape and among the islands of the
Archipelago is next in size to Basilan. Its longest diameter runs east
and west and approximates 37 miles, while its average length does not
exceed 32 miles. Its greatest width is 14 miles and its average width
about 10 miles. The main structure of the island is volcanic, but it
is surrounded with a coral reef formation, which is most extensive
in the bays and on the south.
Two indentations of the northern shore at Jolo and Si'it and two
corresponding indentations of the southern shore at Maymbung and
Tu'tu', divide the island into three parts--western, middle, and
eastern.
The Bay of Jolo is quite open and faces the northwest. It is very
shallow near the shore and its head constitutes the roadstead of
Jolo. The Bay of Maymbung is a deeper indentation, but it is narrower
and shallower than the Bay of Jolo. The town of Maymbung lies at the
head of the bay and is about 9 miles south of Jolo in a direct line.
The Bays of Si'it and Tu'tu' indent the island to such an extent as
to leave only a neck of land, less than 4 miles wide, connecting the
middle and eastern parts of the island. The settlement of Si'it lies
at the head of the bay and in the immediate vicinity of a small lake
of the same name. The shores of the Bay of Tu'tu' are marshy and are
covered with mangrove trees. The bay is very shallow to a considerable
distance from shore. Tu'tu' is the principal settlement near the head
of the bay.
The backbone of the island is a mountain range which runs east and
west and lies nearer to the northern shore. The highest point is Mount
Tumangtangis, at the western extremity of the range. This mountain
reaches a height of 853 meters above sea level and descends very
rapidly to the western coast near Timahu. A spur of the mountain
terminates in Point Pugut at the northwestern extremity of the
island. [6]
Toward the east, the ridge descends to a much lower level at Bud Datu,
Bud Agad, and Bud Pula, which lie immediately to the south of Jolo. It
rises again in Mount Dahu to an altitude of 716 meters. Mount Dahu is
a prominent landmark and forms the most picturesque landscape in the
background of Jolo. It is a steep and conical extinct volcano, similar
to, but smaller and more regular in form than Mount Tumangtangis. East
of Mount Dahu is another gap in which lies Tambang Pass. Beyond this
the range rises again at Mount Tambang and continues uninterrupted to
Mount Sinuma'an, at the extreme end of Lati, and Mount Bagshag. After
Mount Bagshag the range descends gradually toward Su' and Si'it. The
northern slopes of Mount Tumangtangis and Mount Dahu, and the crest of
Bud Datu are covered with grand forests, while the crests and lower
slopes of Bud Agad and Bud Pula are partly cultivated and partly
covered with tall grass.
From the shores of the Bay of Jolo the land rises gradually and
presents a beautiful green appearance. The northern aspect of this
whole range and its beauty were appropriately described by Mr. Hunt,
as follows:
There are few landscapes in the world that exhibit a more
delightful appearance than the seacoasts of Sulu; the luxuriant
variety of the enchanting hills exhibits a scenery hardly ever
equaled and certainly never surpassed by the pencil of the
artist. Some with majestic woods that wave their lofty heads
to the very summits; others with rich pasturage delightfully
verdant, with here and there patches burnt for cultivation,
which form an agreeable contrast with enameled meads; others,
again, exhibit cultivation to the mountain top, checkered with
groves affording a grateful variety to the eye--in a word, it
only requires the decorations of art and civilized life to form
a terrestrial paradise. [7]
To the south of Bagshag [8] lies a small extinct volcano called Panamaw
or Pandakan, whose crater is now a lake. East of Si'it rise the Lu'uk
mountains of Urut, Upao, and Tayungan. From these the range extends
to Bud Tandu at the eastern extremity of the island.
The highlands near the southern coast of the island divide into three
separate regions. The first and westernmost lies west of Maymbung
and forms the principal highlands of Parang. The highest points in
this region are Mount Tukay, east of the town of Parang, and Mount
Mabingkang, east of Tukay. To the east of Maymbung rise Mount Talipao
and Mount Kumaputkut, which form the middle and second region. The
third region is the southern part of the Lu'uk country. Its highest
point is Mount Bulag, to the north of Tandu-Panu'an.
Between Mount Tukay and Mount Tumangtangis lies Bud Gapang. Midway
between Mount Talipao and Bud Datu is Mount Kumuray, in the
neighborhood of Langhub.
The largest streams on the island are Tubig Palag and Bina'an. The
first is generally known as the Maymbung River. It passes through
the settlement of Maymbung and empties into the head of the bay of
the same name. It drains the southern slopes of Mounts Tumangtangis,
Pula, Dahu, and Kumuray. The Bina'an stream drains the southern
slopes of Mount Sinuma'an and the northern slopes of Mounts Talipao
and Kumaputkut and empties into the Bay of Tu'tu'.
PRINCIPAL COAST SETTLEMENTS
Beginning at Jolo and going west along the northern coast we pass
the following points of interest: The first is Point Baylam, the
western limit of the Bay of Jolo. At the head of the small bay that
follows lies the settlement of Matanda, where a Spanish blockhouse
marks the western limit of the Jolo line of fortifications. Next
comes Point Mangalis and the receding beach of Bwansa, the old
capital of Sulu. Here and in the next bay, at Malimbay and Kansaya,
Samal boats assemble in favorable weather for fishing. Back of these
settlements the land rises rapidly to Mount Tumangtangis. A teak
forest of considerable size lies between Tumangtangis and Jolo.
Outside of the wall of Jolo and to the east lies the settlement of
Busbus, where criminals formerly were chopped to death after being tied
to a tree. A mile beyond is Mubu, where the old residence of Sultan
Harun stands out prominently. Copious springs of fresh water issue at
this place at a point near the high-water mark. A mile farther east we
come to Tandu (point or cape), where Datu Kalbi lives. This point is
generally known as Tandu Dayang Ipil [9] and marks the eastern limit
of the Bay of Jolo. The isolated hill of Patikul rises immediately
behind Tandu. The settlement of Patikul lies still farther away on
the beach. Here lives Datu Julkarnayn (Alexander the Great), the
brother of Datu Kalbi. The beautiful region lying between Patikul
and the mountains of Tambang and Sinuma'an is called Lati.
Buhanginan lies about midway between Patikul and Higasan. At the
latter place or Tandu Manuk-manuk the shore line recedes toward the
south. Opposite this point lies the Island of Bakungan. Next comes
the larger settlement of Taglibi, above which rises Mount Ta'ung; then
Bunbun, near a point which marks the western entrance into the Bay of
Si'it. Midway between Bunbun and the head of the bay is Su', which may
be said to mark the boundary line between Lati and Lu'uk. Si'it is
a small settlement near the head of the bay. Beyond Si'it the shore
line turns north until it reaches Kansipat. About 2 miles farther, a
semicircular reef off the shore makes the excellent and well-protected
small harbor of Bwal. A large spring of pure, fresh water adds to this
place another natural advantage, one which gave it the prominence it
had in former days. The entrance into the harbor is very shallow and
allows only sailboats of light draft. The channel lies close to the
shore on the west side. Opposite the Island of Tulayan lie Tandu-batu
and a little farther inland Kuta Makis. Limawa lies about 3 miles
farther on near a point opposite the Island of Buli Kuting. Behind
this island and at the head of a shallow cove lies Patutul, the chief
settlement of Tandu. East of Bud Tandu is Tandu Pansan, the easternmost
point of the island. The eastern coast is exposed to storms and appears
rocky and barren, though the hills behind it are well cultivated.
The first point on the southern coast is Tandu Panu'an, behind which
lies the settlement of Sukuban. This marks the southern extremity of
the boundary line between Tandu and Lu'uk. The country behind Kuta
Sihi' and Pitugu appears rich and well tilled. The hills come down
to the beach. Near the point at the eastern limit of Tu'tu' Bay lies
Kambing. The neighboring country is rich and prosperous. It is governed
by Maharaja Bayrula, one of the wisest and best chiefs of Sulu. West
of Kambing lie Pandang-pandang, Tubu-manuk, and Tu'tu'. The shore is
a continuous mangrove marsh, while the country behind is about the
richest and best tilled land on the whole island. The western side
of Tu'tu' Bay has few places of importance. The country behind is
picturesque and hilly, but not as well populated as other parts of
the island. Lubuk, Kabungkul, and Lumapit are the chief settlements.
Beyond the point of Buhangin Puti', the shore line bends again north
and the Bay of Maymbung begins. Here mangrove swamps are extensive and
extend a good distance inland. The greater part of Maymbung is built on
piles over the water. It is surrounded by swamps on all sides. After
the tide recedes, strong odors arise from the muddy bottom to such
an extraordinary degree as to render the atmosphere of the place
very disagreeable and often unbearable to strangers. The center of
the town is a small, open square of reclaimed land filled with coral
rocks. Around this square were built the houses of Sultan Jamalul
A`lam and his ministers of state. The present sultan lives on a hill
about half a mile inland from the town. The square was probably the
site of the Maymbung fort which was destroyed by General Arolas in
1887. Some Chinese traders live in the town and export hemp, pearls,
pearl shells, etc., through Jolo. The population of the town and its
immediate suburbs varies considerably, but it is generally estimated
at 1,000. Beyond Maymbung the coast bends sharply to the south. In
the immediate vicinity of Maymbung lies Bwalu. A mile west of this
place begins the district of Parang. After Lipid and Lapa comes
Kabali'an, the western limit of the Bay of Maymbung. The shore line
then takes a more westerly direction. Passing Dandulit and Lakasan,
we reach Tandu Put, where the western coast of the island begins. This
southern region of Parang is well populated and is very pretty and
productive. Cultivated areas are seen on the side of the mountains
everywhere and they reach the very summit of Mount Tukay.
The town of Parang is one of the largest settlements on the island
and has, at present, an estimated population of 1,000. It is situated
at the head of a small open bay facing the southwest and commands
a beautiful view of Tapul and Lugus and the intervening sheet of
water. It is the capital of the district and has one of the best
markets in the Archipelago for fish, shells, and pearls. The drinking
water in this neighborhood is brackish.
An islet lies off the shore near Tandu Bunga. Beyond this point the
shore line turns north to Bwisan, which is one of the most prosperous
settlements in the district. Beyond Alu Pangku' the coast inclines a
little east and runs to Silankan and Timahu. Extensive coconut groves
and well-cultivated fields and fruit trees of various kinds abound
all along the coast from Parang to Timahu.
DISTRICTS OF THE ISLAND
The districts of the island conform in a great measure to its natural
divisions. However, political reasons have modified the natural
boundaries and increased the districts to six by division. These
districts are Parang, Pansul, Lati, Gi'tung, Lu'uk and Tandu. The first
district on the west is Parang. A line joining the western limit of
Bwalu on the south coast, with a point slightly east of the summit of
Mount Tumantangis, and projected to the sea on the north, delimits
this district on the east and carves out of the western natural
division the district of Pansul. The eastern boundary of Pansul is a
line running from a point 2 or 3 miles east of Maymbung to Mount Pula
and Busbus. The chief reason for separating Pansul from Parang was
to reserve for the sultan direct control over Jolo and Maymbung. This
district has more foreigners residing in it than any other.
A line joining Su' and Lubuk marks the eastern limit of both Lati and
Gi'tung, the third and fourth districts. The watershed line joining
the summits of Mounts Dahu, Tambang, and Sinuma'an and falling on
the east to the vicinity of Su', divides Lati on the north from
Gi'tung on the south. For all practical purposes the district of
Lati may be said to lie between Jolo and Su', and the district of
Gi'tung or Talipao between Maymbung and Tu'tu'. The land joining
Si'it and Tu'tu' is low. Sulu traditions say that when the Samals
arrived in the island this neck of land was submerged and the island
was divided by a channel of water. The extinct volcano of Pandakan,
generally spoken of as the "Crater Lake," which lies in this vicinity,
may be of late origin and may have been the source of the geologic
deposits which helped to fill the channel. Spanish records speak of
a volcanic eruption in the vicinity of Jolo as late as 1840, and it
is very likely that other volcanic action occurred prior to that date
and after the arrival of the Samals in the fourteenth century.
A line joining Limawa on the north and Sukuban or Tandu Panu'an on
the south, divides Lu'uk from Tandu, thus forming the fifth and sixth
districts respectively. A line joining Mount Tayungan and Bud Tandu
divides both Lu'uk and Tandu into a northern and a southern part. In
both cases the southern parts are more fertile and better cultivated
and probably more thickly populated than the northern.
The Sulus are principally agriculturists. The greater part of the
people are farmers and a considerable portion of the interior of the
island is under cultivation. They raise a good number of cattle,
carabaos, and horses, which they utilize for tilling the soil and
transporting its products. Trails cross the island in all directions
and the interior is in easy communication with the sea. Fruits are
good and abundant. The forests are rich in jungle products and in
timber. Some copra and hemp is raised and the amount is being increased
annually. The staples are tapioca, rice, and corn. Sugar cane is raised
in small quantities. Ubi and taro are fairly abundant. Some coffee is
produced, but disease destroyed most of the plantations. Some tobacco
and vegetables are raised for home consumption only.
Jolo is one of the best fish markets in the Philippine Islands. The
varieties of fish in Sulu waters are innumerable and of excellent
quality. The Island of Sulu surpasses Mindanao in the quality and
proportional amount of its fruit. There is an abundance of mangostins,
durians, nangkas (jack-fruit), lançones, [10] marangs, [10] mangos
of several varieties (mampalam, bawnu, and wanni), oranges, custard
apples, pineapples, bananas, etc.
In the extent and quality of cultivation the district of Lu'uk
ranks first, Parang second, and Lati third. Good fresh water abounds
everywhere except on the western coast. Considerable irrigation is
possible in many localities.
TOWN OF JOLO.
GENERAL PLAN, BUILDINGS AND STREETS
Jolo is the Spanish representation (or rather misrepresentation) of
the word Sulu, sometimes written Sooloo. The early Spaniards wrote it
"Xolo," which later changed to Joló. The complete form of the word is
Sulug, as it is rendered in Magindanao. The Sulus pronounce it and
write it Sug. Sug means a sea current. The flow of the tide through
the innumerable narrow channels separating the numerous islands of
the Archipelago gives rise to unusually strong currents which figure
prominently in the seafaring life of the people. Therefore the term
is an appropriate designation for the Archipelago as a whole.
The rulers of the island state have changed their capital four
times. The most ancient capital was Maymbung, the second was Bwansa,
which lies on the north coast of the island about 3 miles west of
Jolo. Here ruled Raja Baginda and the first three sultans of Sulu. The
fourth sultan moved to Sug, the third capital, and the town remained
the capital of the sultanate until 1876, the date of the Spanish
conquest and occupation. Sultan Jamalul A`lam then moved to Maymbung
and the Spaniards occupied the town. Since then the term Jolo has
become so intimately associated with it, that it is deemed preferable
to use it as a name for the town, while the term Sulu, which is more
correct and more commonly used, is retained in all other applications.
The town of Jolo has been so closely identified with the history
of the sultanate as to claim considerable attention. The Spanish
buildings and improvements were sufficiently extensive to obscure
the ancient landmarks of the town and to render a complete and
intelligent understanding of the early history and traditions of the
place impracticable. A few words describing the location of Jolo,
its ancient landmarks, and the Spanish improvements will therefore
be of primary interest.
The town as it stands at present is divided into four distinct
parts. The main or central part is Jolo proper or the "walled
town." This is known to the Moros as Tiyangi Sug meaning the "shops
or market of Sulu." The western half of this part bordering on Suba'
Bawang formerly was termed Luway. The second part, called San Remondo,
lies back and south of the walled town and is separated from it by a
little stream called Tubig Hasa'an. The third part is Tulay and lies
on the west side; the fourth is Busbus, on the east side.
At the head of the roadstead separating the Pueblo nuevo or Tulay from
Jolo proper or Luway is a small tidal stream formerly called Suba'
Bawang. Some maps designate it as Rio del Sultan. This stream extends
back into a swamp and divides into two branches. The main or direct
branch extends in a more or less southerly direction to a point about
700 meters from the mouth of the stream, where it rises in copious
springs of fresh water at the edge of the swamp. The other branch
is formed by the junction of the rivulet that rises in the springs
of San Remondo with Tubig Hasa'an. The latter has its origin at the
foot of the hills above the cemetery and Blockhouse No. 2. Hasa'an
means grindstone, and the springs are said to have burst out of the
spot where a grindstone was set for use. Another stream, termed Suba'
Ligayan, drains the northern slopes of Buds Datu and Agad, and running
north, passes by Fort Asturias and through Tulay, and empties into
the roadstead of Jolo at a point about 250 meters west of the mouth
of Suba' Bawang. A branch of this stream formerly issued at Asturias
and connected with the main stream of Suba' Bawang. The land which
thus lay between Suba' Bawang and Suba' Ligayan was a delta. It was
called by the Moros u-laya (that is, the head of the net) because
of its triangular shape. It was mostly marshy, but it had a central
longitudinal strip of dry land which practically connected Tulay with
the base of the hills, at Asturias. At the upper end of this strip
there existed at one time a well-defined, sandy spot, different in
formation from the surrounding land, which was considered sacred and
was supposed to be the first land formed on the island. This spot was
Sug proper; after it was named the whole settlement which was built
along the banks of Suba' Bawang and at the head of the roadstead.
The Sultan's palace, termed istana, his kuta (fort) and stockades
were built along the lower left bank of the stream Bawang; hence the
name Rio del Sultan. On the right bank lay the houses and stockades
of the other datus of high rank. Two bridges connected one side of
the stream with the other.
On the outskirts of the town lay various kuta belonging to subordinate
datus, which defended the approaches to the town. The most famous of
these kuta was Daniel's Fort, the best stronghold of Sulu. On the
site of this fort was built in 1878 the fort or redoubt of Alfonso
XII, which was lately replaced by the present headquarters building
of the military post of Jolo. Another strong fort was built at the
foot of the hills just above the head of the delta above described;
it defended the inland approach to the town. This was Panglima Arabi's
kuta, on the site of which Fort Asturias was erected. Another kuta
was located on Point Baylam.
The principal part of the town was formerly built over the shoal and
beach at the head of the bay. Extensive rows of buildings stretched
out into the roadstead and in front of the buildings now occupied as
the clubhouse and military hospital. The present "Chinese pier" is
constructed on the same plan. This extensive row of houses and shops
begins at the lower point of the Tulay delta and stretches straight out
into the sea. The bay is very shallow here and appears to be fairly
well protected from severe storms. A variety of fish called tulay,
after which the Moro town of Tulay is named, is caught in the bay. A
swamp bounds the town on the south and west, affording it considerable
protection from assault. However, it is open to attack from the sea
and from the east. The land on the east is high and affords the only
desirable site for residences. Here the strongest forts and defenses
were erected.
The Spaniards built the central part of Jolo first. They raised it
considerably above sea level by extensive fillings, and surrounded it
by a loop-holed wall, 8 feet high and 1 1/2 feet thick, for protection
from Moro assaults. The new town was beautifully laid out with broad,
clean streets lined with double rows of arbol de fuego (fire trees),
ylang-ylang, [11] acacia, and other varieties of trees, some of
which are large and magnificent. Three parks, each one block in
size, added considerable picturesqueness to the place. Substantial
quarters were built for the officers, all houses were painted white
or whitewashed, and none of them had the nipa roofs so common in the
Archipelago. Business places, storehouses, a large market place, a
church, a theater, two schoolhouses, and a hospital were erected and
a public water supply provided. A stone pier was built extending 120
meters into the sea, and provided with a light-house at its outer end.
The town wall had five gates, two of which lay on the northwest or sea
front, one at the foot of the pier, and the other close to it. Through
the latter gate cargo was admitted from small boats, which can always
come up to this point at high water. The three other gates lay on the
land side, one at the south end of the town toward Tulay, another at
the opposite extremity facing Busbus, and a third one at the southern
end of Calle [12] Buyon, directly facing San Remondo. This last is the
only gate of the three kept open at present and is the only entrance
into the town from the land side. A tower called Torre de la Farola
surmounts the gate. Near the Busbus gate and forming the northeast
angle of the town was the fort or redoubt termed Alfonso XII. It was
built on a prominent eminence and commanded an extensive view of the
bay, the town, and the surrounding country.
In the immediate vicinity lay the Cuartel España, which was a large
and substantial building occupying the northern extremity of the
town, facing the bay on the side of Busbus. At the extreme end of
the wall beyond the barracks was the tower or blockhouse called Torre
Norte. Another similar tower at the south gate was termed Torre Sur. At
the intersection of the south wall and the beach line was a strong
building called Cuartel Defensivo de las Victorias. The block lying
diagonally between this cuartel and the market had eight buildings
which were known as Casas de la Colonia para Deportados.
Two roads and two bridges connected the south and southeast gates
with San Remondo. The continuation of these roads formed the two
main streets of this part of the town. San Remondo has six small town
blocks, nearly all of which are on reclaimed swamp land. The buildings
here are mere nipa huts and the streets are muddy and narrow, unlike
those of the walled town. Back of the town lies a large coconut grove
which extends to Blockhouse No. 2 on one side and Asturias on the
other. A straight and well laid out road directly connects these two
latter points and marks the southern limit of the town.
A good road runs outside the wall connecting Busbus and Tulay. Later
usage has applied the term Tulay to all parts of the town lying west
of Suba' Bawang. Formerly the name Tulay was applied only to that
part lying west of Suba' Ligayan, while the intermediate section was
known as Pueblo nuevo. The bridge across the mouth of Suba' Bawang was
termed puente del sultan. On the other side of the bridge this street
extends through Pueblo nuevo and along the central strip of u-laya,
or the delta, to Fort Asturias, thus separating the waters of Suba'
Bawang from Suba' Ligayan. Midway between Tulay and Asturias stands an
obelisk-like monument erected by General Arolas and bearing the date
1892. Further fillings in Tulay have provided for several streets,
the chief one of which is the direct street running to the Chinese
pier and then on to the blockhouse of the playa [13] and the Ligayan
River. A large bridge crosses this river to Tulay proper. The road
ends at the beach a little beyond the bridge. In the central plaza at
Tulay stands a monument erected by General Arolas in 1891 in memory of
the three renowned conquerors of Jolo. On one side the monument bears
the inscription "A la gloria de los que con su esfuerzo hicieron esta
tierra Española;" the second side bears the inscription "Corcuera,
17 de Abril de 1638;" the third side, "Urbistondo, 28 de Febrero
de 1851;" the fourth side, "Malcampo, 29 de Febrero de 1876." A
straight road about three-fourths of a mile long called the Asturias
Road directly connects Asturias with the main entrance of the walled
town. Another road starts at this latter point and running along the
right bank of Tubig Hasa'an reaches the cemetery on the opposite side
of Blockhouse No. 2. The old bridge connecting a branch of this road
with the one running from Asturias to Blockhouse No. 2 was washed
away by a severe freshet in 1904, thus breaking what had formerly
been a complete circle of roads around the town.
Busbus is wholly occupied by Moros. Its houses are dilapidated
nipa huts built on piles over the water. Back of the town is a
marsh which extends a little way toward the base of the hills. The
water from the marsh escapes into the bay by two rivulets, the first
of which runs through the settlement and is known as Tubig Uhang;
the other is artificial, forms the outer limit of the town, and is
called Buyung Canal. Persons convicted of capital crimes in the days
of the independent sultanate were tied to a tree at this place and
there their bodies were chopped to pieces; hence the name "Busbus"
which means to "chop up" or "dress wood."
TRADE
Jolo lies about 4 miles from the point of intersection of latitude 6°
north and longitude 121° east. It is about 540 nautical miles due
south from Manila and 81 nautical miles distant from Zamboanga. The
harbor is deep and free from currents. The bay is well protected on
the north by the Islands of Pangasinan and Marongas and is safe from
all storms except those from the northwest.
Sulu occupies the most nearly central position of any island in eastern
Malaysia. It lies between Mindanao on the east and Borneo on the
west, and separates the Sulu Sea from the Celebes Sea. The commercial
advantages of this position are unique. To the north lie the Bisayas,
Palawan, Luzon, Formosa, China, and Japan; to the east Mindanao and
Basilan; to the south, the Moluccas, Celebes, and Java; to the west,
Borneo, Sumatra, and the Malay Peninsula. Besides, the Sulus are
natural-born sailors, and their famous pearl industry has prompted
them to trade since time immemorial. Their boats brought silk, amber,
silver, scented woods, and porcelain from China and Japan; gold dust,
wax, dyes, saltpeter, slaves, and food stuffs from Luzon, the Bisayas,
and Mindanao; gunpowder, cannon, brass, copper, iron, rubies, and
diamonds from Malacca and Bruney; [14] pepper and spices from Java,
the Moluccas, and Celebes. Chinese merchants traded with Sulu long
before the arrival of Legaspi, and while Manila and Cebu were still
small and insignificant settlements Jolo had reached the proportions of
a city and was, without exception, the richest and foremost settlement
in the Philippine Islands. Jolo, with the exception of Bruney, had
no rival in northeast Malaysia prior to the seventeenth century.
Such commercial importance naturally attracted the attention of
the early Spanish Governors-General and was one of the causes which
led to the early invasion of Sulu. The long period of warfare which
followed this invasion retarded the progress of Jolo and reduced its
trade. Again, the rise of Spanish commerce in the north tended to
restrict the trade of Jolo. The growth of Manila, Cebu, and Iloilo
naturally diverted the commerce of Luzon and the Bisayas and the north
coast of Mindanao to those cities. The later commercial decline of
Jolo was probably brought about more in this way than as a result of
actual clash of arms. Jolo, however, remained an important port and
a transshipping station to Mindanao until a late date.
At present trade has assumed new proportions and is following new
routes. Zamboanga, Kotabato, and Davao are directly connected with
Manila by regular steamship lines, and Jolo is fast losing its
importance as a transshipping port. Zamboanga, on the other hand,
is rising in importance and seems destined to become the port of
Mindanao. It is the capital of the Moro Province and lies in the
direct route connecting China, Manila, and Australia. It has direct
communication with Manila, Hongkong, Singapore, and Australia, and
is gradually diverting the trade of Mindanao from Jolo.
In spite of overwhelming odds, however, Jolo will maintain considerable
commercial importance. It has well-established trade relations with
Borneo, the Malay Peninsula, China, and Luzon, and is connected
by regular steamship lines with Sandakan, Singapore, Manila, and
Zamboanga. Practically the whole trade of the Sulu Archipelago passes
through this port, and it stands now, as ever before, as the center
of business, power, and importance of the whole district of Sulu.
In the early days the trade of Sulu was carried on by Moros and
Chinese. The Chinese appear to have entered the Archipelago prior
to its mohammedanization, and the commercial relations of China
and Sulu are really prehistoric. As hostilities between Spain and
Sulu increased, Sulu traders became less daring and grew fewer and
fewer. Chinese traders, on the other hand, were less molested and
conditions encouraged their increase. The "Chinese pier" is a very
old business establishment, and Chinese traders and merchants have
resided in Jolo for many generations. Their number, in 1851, exceeded
500. At present Chinese merchants have complete control of the trade
of the Sulu Archipelago. They are found everywhere and command all the
avenues of commerce. The Sulus have abandoned commerce as a trade and
apparently have no inclination to resume it on any large scale. This
is due mainly to the decline of their power and the present abeyance
of their national life. A new political revival will no doubt change
their attitude and may bring about a surprising development in arts
and trades as well as of commerce.
The trade between Jolo and various islands and settlements of the
Archipelago is carried on by means of innumerable small Moro boats and
sloops termed sapits. Formerly such boats traded with Bruney, Sandakan,
the Celebes, Java, and all the various islands of the Philippine
Archipelago, but the stricter enforcement of the customs regulations,
which followed the establishment of open ports at Sitanki, Bangao, and
Kagayan Sulu, had the effect of checking trade with foreign countries
in such small boats and tended to concentrate the whole trade of the
Archipelago at Jolo. A review of the imports and exports of the port of
Jolo will therefore throw considerable light on the material resources
of the Archipelago, its industries, and the enterprise of the natives.
Port of Jolo
IMPORTS
====================================================================
| | Fiscal year-- |
| Commodity |-----------------------|
| | 1905 | 1906 |
|------------------------------------------|-----------+-----------|
| Animals, etc | $214 | $71 |
| Brass, manufactures of | 6,402 | 2,548 |
| Breadstuffs | 4,881 | 3,870 |
| Cement | 745 | 989 |
| Coal | 4,208 | |
| Coffee | 621 | 872 |
| Cotton cloths, close woven | 82,999 | 80,381 |
| Cotton cloths, loose woven | 14,053 | 14,338 |
| Carpets | 5,379 | |
| Yarn and thread | 18,059 | 19,594 |
| Knit fabrics | 2,688 | 3,564 |
| Cotton cloths, all other manufactures of | 949 | 2,079 |
| Dyes | 2,691 | 3,807 |
| Opium | 14,578 | 6,601 |
| Earthen and stone ware | 1,494 | 2,419 |
| Fibers, vegetable | 308 | 153 |
| Dried fish | 216 | 456 |
| Shell fish | 375 | 497 |
| Fruits, canned | 272 | 254 |
| Fruits, not canned | 362 | 407 |
| Glass and glassware | 694 | 415 |
| Iron, steel, and manufactures of | 3,640 | 2,916 |
| Malt liquors | 2,020 | 822 |
| Matches | 956 | 372 |
| Mineral oils | 742 | 1,339 |
| Vegetable oils | 536 | 503 |
| Paints | 979 | 299 |
| Paper and manufactures of | 2,123 | 1,816 |
| Condensed milk | 1,516 | 1,363 |
| Rice | 76,172 | 57,416 |
| Silk and manufactures of | 1,614 | 1,318 |
| Soap | 724 | 610 |
| Spirits, distilled | 1,643 | 1,108 |
| Sugar, refined | 4,314 | 2,987 |
| Tea | 646 | 489 |
| Tobacco and manufactures of | 586 | 367 |
| Vegetables | 1,204 | 1,919 |
| Wearing apparel | | 3,699 |
| Wood and manufactures of | 2,270 | 1,646 |
| Wool and manufactures of | 2,282 | 206 |
| All others | 8,126 | 7,262 |
| |-----------+-----------|
| Total in U. S. currency | $274,281 | $231,772 |
| Total in Philippine currency | P548,562 | P463,544 |
====================================================================
EXPORTS
==========================================================
| | Fiscal year-- |
| Commodity |-----------------------|
| | 1905 | 1906 |
|--------------------------------+-----------+-----------|
| Animals | $42 | $70 |
| Hemp | 486 | 5,561 |
| Cordage | 5,084 | 5,054 |
| Fish | 7,893 | 13,151 |
| Copra | 17,870 | 30,052 |
| Copal | 3,793 | 4,458 |
| Gutta-percha | 108 | 3,939 |
| Hides | 839 | 867 |
| Mother-of-pearl (shells) | 88,516 | 60,051 |
| Tortoise shell | 1,971 | 2,856 |
| Shells, all others | 4,249 | 11,864 |
| All others | 8,033 | 4,610 |
| |-----------+-----------|
| Total in U. S. currency | $138,884 | $142,533 |
| Total in Philippine currency | P277,768 | P285,066 |
==========================================================
Port of Zamboanga [15]
IMPORTS
============================================================
| Agricultural imports | P250 | P40 |
| Wheat flour | 6,048 | 18,378 |
| Cement | 3,088 | 12,966 |
| Coffee | 5,656 | 10,646 |
| Copper, manufactures of | 838 | 686 |
| Cotton cloths, close woven | 92,254 | 97,866 |
| Cotton cloths, loose woven | 9,628 | 33,714 |
| Cotton wearing apparel | 2,136 | 5,152 |
| Cotton yarn and thread | 25,032 | 34,862 |
| Cotton, knit fabrics | 6,278 | 4,380 |
| Cotton, all other manufactures | 1,840 | 5,118 |
| Opium | 8,928 | 26,254 |
| Earthen and stone ware | 1,406 | 5,016 |
| China ware | 262 | 388 |
| Hats and caps | 1,164 | 598 |
| Iron, sheet | 6,470 | 12,786 |
| Cutlery, table | 76 | 142 |
| Cutlery, all other | 120 | 96 |
| Nails, wire | 500 | 530 |
| Boots and shoes | 762 | 2,884 |
| Beer in wood | None. | 198 |
| Beer in bottles | 8,410 | 42,618 |
| Other malt liquors | 1,902 | 548 |
| Matches | 60 | 988 |
| Tin, manufactures of | 188 | 40 |
| Oil, petroleum | 4,850 | 8,600 |
| Milk, condensed | 3,200 | 5,972 |
| Rice, husked | 119,572 | 161,642 |
| Brandy | 814 | 3,212 |
| Whiskey, bourbon | 822 | 1,240 |
| Whiskey, rye | 1,030 | 376 |
| Whiskey, all other | 6,668 | 19,566 |
| Sugar, refined | 3,566 | 5,488 |
| Tea | 1,346 | 2,484 |
| Zinc, manufactures of | 880 | 834 |
| All other imports | 49,712 | 86,807 |
| |------------+------------|
| Total in Philippine currency | 375,756 | 613,115 |
============================================================
EXPORTS
======================================================
| | Fiscal year-- |
| Commodity |---------------------|
| | 1905 | 1906 |
|------------------------------+----------+----------|
| Bejuco (rattan) | P700 | P1,594 |
| Fish | 60 | 1,886 |
| Coconuts | None. | 2,258 |
| Copra | 125,734 | 157,398 |
| Almaciga [16] | 632 | 288 |
| Copal | 19,906 | 31,582 |
| Gutta-percha | 2,282 | 28,370 |
| Rubber | None. | None. |
| All other gums and resins | 910 | None. |
| Hides, carabao | 362 | 316 |
| Beeswax | None. | 3,024 |
| Shells, mother-of-pearl | 2,440 | 2,420 |
| Shells, tortoise | 8,708 | 7,638 |
| Shells, all other | 2,224 | 10,320 |
| Salt | None. | 1,508 |
| Wood, all kinds | 1,346 | 1,076 |
| All other exports | 9,590 | 9,860 |
| |----------|----------|
| Total in Philippine currency | 174,894 | 259,538 |
======================================================
The above statements of the imports and exports of the port of Jolo for
the fiscal years 1905 and 1906 have been obtained through the kindness
and help of Mr. E. B. Cook, collector of customs for Jolo. They
represent the total value of the imports and exports of the town to
and from foreign ports only. They do not, however, give an idea of the
grand total of the imports and exports of the Archipelago. Account
must also be taken of the large amount of commodities smuggled into
the country by means of small boats which continually run between
the Tawi-tawi Group and Kagayan Sulu on the one side and Borneo and
Palawan on the other. Moreover, it is difficult to tell what part of
the trade of Basilan and the Samal group of islands is retained by Jolo
and what part has lately been drawn away by Zamboanga. Besides, some
trade between Sulu and Basilan, on one side, and Mindanao, Negros,
and Cebu on the other, is carried on by sailing craft; no account
of this is taken either at Jolo or Zamboanga. Since July 1, 1905,
all boats under 15 tons register have not been required to present at
the custom-house manifests of goods carried. It is clear, therefore,
that no correct estimate or opinion can be rendered on the strength
of these figures, unless one is aided by personal observation and
knowledge of actual conditions previous to July 1, 1903.
Estimating the population affected by the trade of Jolo, at 100,000,
we note that the importation of cloths and woven materials amounted
to P204,431 in 1905 and P196,836 in 1906, or 37 per cent and 42
per cent of total imports, respectively. There is no doubt that the
weaving industry among Sulus and Samals is far from being adequate to
furnish clothing material, and European cotton cloths are therefore
extensively used throughout the Archipelago.
The importation of rice amounted to P152,344 in 1905 and P114,832 in
1906, or 27 and 24 per cent of the total imports, respectively. The
Sulus are agriculturists and should be able to raise sufficient rice
for themselves and the Samals. The islands most fitted for this
purpose are Sulu, Basilan, Tapul, Siasi, Pata, and Pandami. The
Samals are not agriculturists as a rule and seldom raise anything
except tapioca and corn. They generally live on flat, low islands,
unfit for the cultivation of rice. The Archipelago as a whole should
produce sufficient rice, tapioca, corn, and camotes to feed the whole
population. The importation of rice in 1905 was probably in excess
of the average amount; less rice was raised that year because of war
and general disturbances.
The commodities of next importance are yarn and thread for weaving
purposes. Importation of these articles amounted to P36,118 in 1905
and P39,188 in 1906, or 7 and 8 per cent, respectively. The country
does not produce silk, cotton, or wool.
All other imports may be regarded as accessories. Of these opium
comes first, then dyes, breadstuffs, sugar, iron, steel, brass, paper,
and earthenware. A considerable amount of tobacco is imported by the
government free of duty, and quantities of tobacco, opium, and cloths
formerly were smuggled in. The reduction of imports in 1906 may be
due to increased production, to the depression that followed the
disturbances of 1904 and 1905, and to a diversion of certain parts
of the trade to Zamboanga.
The exports, on the other hand, show a light increase in 1906. They
distinctly represent those resources of the country which are most
capable of development. At the head of the list stands the shell
industry, particularly the pearl shell, which amounted to P189,472 in
1905 and P149,542 in 1906, or 64 and 52 per cent of total exports,
respectively. The exportation of shell has lately been greatly
affected by the falling of the price of pearl shell in the market of
Singapore. The exportation of other shells seems, on the contrary,
to have increased. Pearl fishing is the principal industry of the
country and forms the main source of its riches. The fishing is done
exclusively by natives, but the trade seems to be wholly in the hands
of Chinese. The figures given above do not include pearls. It is
very difficult to obtain any statistics for this valuable product,
but on the whole it is reckoned by merchants as equivalent to the
whole output of shell.
Second in importance comes copra, which amounted to P35,740 in
1905 and P60,104 in 1906, or 12 and 21 per cent of total exports,
respectively. The marked increase of this export in 1906 may
be explained partly by increased production and partly by the
general damage done to the trees in 1905 by locusts. Increase in the
cultivation of coconut trees is not perceptible and can not account
for the increase in exportation.
Dried fish comes third in order, amounting to P15,786 in 1905
and P26,302 in 1906. This industry is capable of unlimited
development. The fertility of the Sulu Sea is unusual and can hardly
be surpassed. Nothing but enterprise and organized effort is needed
to render this trade a source of enormous wealth to the country. The
natives are exceedingly skillful in fishing, but lack ambition and
initiative. The trade in fish is mostly in the hands of Chinese
merchants.
Fourth in importance comes hemp. Both in fiber and cordage its exports
amounted to P11,140 in 1905 and P21,230 in 1906. Hemp culture has
markedly improved during the last year, and the increased production
is sufficient to explain the increase in exportation. Coconut trees
and hemp grow splendidly on all the larger islands of the Archipelago,
and their cultivation is capable of extensive development.
Copal and gutta-percha are the products of Sulu, Basilan, and the
Tawi-tawi Islands. Although sufficiently important in themselves,
they sink into insignificance when compared with the four primary
staple products and the immense possibilities that lie in the line
of their development.
The greater part of the trade of Jolo is handled by the Jolo Trading
Company, the firm of Hernandez & Co., and the commercial houses of
Chaun Lee and Ban Guan, all of which are controlled and managed by
Chinese merchants. The following list compiled in the office of the
Jolo Trading Company, for the Far Eastern Review, is a fair estimate
of the prospective exports of the town for the coming two years:
===================================================================
| Article | Amount | Price | Total |
|---------------------------------+-----------+-------+-----------|
| | Piculs. | | |
| Hemp | 1,000 | P21 | P21,000 |
| Pearl shells | 150 | 45 | 6,750 |
| Trepang or beche-de-mar | 50 | 30 | 1,500 |
| Shark fins | 20 | 45 | 900 |
| Hemp rope | 30 | 25 | 750 |
| Caracoles (sea shells | | | |
| for buttons, etc.) | 40 | 12 | 480 |
| Black shells | 10 | 8 | 80 |
| Copra | 500 | 7 | 3,500 |
| Seaweeds | 40 | 4 | 160 |
| Hides | 10 | 20 | 200 |
| Cacao | 10 | 50 | 500 |
| Tortoise shells | 1-1/2 | 1,800 | 2,700 |
| Sea horses | | | 240 |
|---------------------------------+-----------+-------+-----------|
| Grand total | | | 38,760 |
|=================================================================|
Hemp is generally exported to Manila, while the other articles
mentioned in the above table are generally exported to Singapore.
Trepang, shark fins, seaweed, and sea horses are foods highly prized
by the Chinese.
If the value of pearls taken is estimated on the basis suggested by
the president of the Jolo Trading Company, it will bring the total
up to P58,760 per month.
POPULATION
The present population of Jolo is less than 2,000. This includes
all the natives and foreigners living in Tulay and Busbus; but the
United States troops are excepted. The bulk of the inhabitants is
made up of Filipinos, Chinese, and Moros. The census report of 1903
gives the following statistics, which include Tulay and San Remondo,
but not Busbus:
====================================
| Color | Males | Females |
|================+=======+=========|
| Brown | 309 | 306 |
| |=================|
| Ilokano | 10 | 4 |
| Moro | 9 | 98 |
| Tagalog | 103 | 66 |
| Bisayan | 161 | 132 |
| Foreign born | 26 | 6 |
| Mixed | 74 | 48 |
| Yellow | 429 | 56 |
| White | 31 | 17 |
| |=======+=========|
| Total | 843 | 427 |
====================================
Walled town 541
Tulay 615
San Remondo 114
-----
Total 1,270
Males of voting age
Brown:
Filipino 189
Ilokano 9
Moro 4
Tagalog 75
Bisayan 101
English 14
French 1
All others 5
Mixed:
Filipino 1
Chinese 8
English 2
Yellow:
Chinese 392
Japanese 1
English 3
White:
American 22
Spanish 2
All others 1
---
Total 641
As the great majority of the "mixed" population have Chinese fathers,
they, as a rule, follow Chinese custom and trade and may be regarded
as Chinese. The Chinese element may therefore be classified as follows:
=======================================
| Chinese | Males | Females | Total |
|-----------+-------+---------+-------|
| Pure | 429 | 56 | 485 |
| Mixed | 70 | 45 | 115 |
| |-------+---------+-------|
| Total | 499 | 101 | 600 |
=======================================
The Filipinos may be classified as follows:
=======================================
| Filipinos | Males | Females | Total |
|-----------+-------+---------+-------|
| Brown | 274 | 202 | 476 |
| Mixed | 4 | 3 | 7 |
| |-------+---------+-------|
| Total | 278 | 205 | 483 |
=======================================
The census statistics give a full and clear idea of the composition
of the resident population of the town in 1903. The Chinese and
their offspring, amounting to 600, undoubtedly form the preponderant
element. The Filipinos come next, amounting to 483 only. Considerable
change has, however, occurred since the census was taken, and
necessitates a revision of the above figures. The increase of the
garrison and the construction of many new buildings for the military
post has caused an influx of Filipinos from Zamboanga and Kotabato,
and more Chinese have undoubtedly come in since 1903. The census
figures again do not include Moros, some hundreds of whom live at
present in Tulay and Busbus.
The following, based on close personal observation, is considered a
fair estimate of the present population:
==============================================================
| | Walled | San Remondo | Tulay | Busbus | Jolo |
| | town | | | | |
|-----------+---------+-------------+-------+--------+-------|
| Moros | [17] 30 | 30 | 300 | 350 | 710 |
| Chinese | 250 | 10 | 400 | 20 | 680 |
| Filipinos | 170 | 100 | 250 | | 520 |
| |---------+-------------+-------+--------+-------|
| Total | 450 | 140 | 950 | 370 | 1,910 |
==============================================================
The inhabitants of the town are more or less migratory
in character. The population is constantly changing. Few are
property owners. The majority are traders, carpenters, and domestic
servants. The Filipinos were originally "camp followers" and still
feel as strangers in the land. Many of the Moros living at Tulay
and Busbus are of mixed origin. The mixture is chiefly of Sulus and
Samals, with each other and with Chinese. The Jolo type of Moros is
by no means pure Sulu and has consequently misled many authors and
ethnologists. A large number of Samals frequent Tulay and Busbus and
often temporarily reside there, but because of their strong migratory
habits no estimate has been made of them.
A few Arabians, Malays, and Indian traders are married in the country,
but their proportion is small and insignificant at present.