CHAPTER XXIII.

THE MOSCOW FOUNDLING ASYLUM.

The foundling asylum (Vospitàtelny Dom) is as well known in Moscow

as the Tsar Kolokol. Any droschky-driver can take you there by the

shortest cut, if you engage him by the “course.” Every _mujik_ in the

streets can and will direct you to it with the greatest pleasure. He

may think that you want to adopt a child out of it, or to put one into

it. As a man of Moscow, he is interested in both those operations.

Let me not be misunderstood. The foundling asylum is not intended

to receive only children born out of wedlock. It is indeed a refuge

for those poor little waifs. Many a baby, over whom the Moskwa would

otherwise close its dark and swift waters, is saved to become a good

soldier for the Tsar or a modest and prettily dressed house-maid,

simply because the newborn could be put by the mother within the folds

of the foundling asylum and none be the wiser. She has only, in the

darkness of night, to place the child in a sort of cradle attached to

a door outside of the building, and pull a bell. This gives a signal

and starts some machinery. The door revolves on its hinges, landing the

little stranger on the inside. At the same time, a nurse responds to

the summons and takes charge of the baby. If the mother has left any

bit of a trinket tied around its neck, or a letter, or a card pinned

to its dress, or anything else to identify it, she can claim her own

at any time afterward, on proving her maternal rights. If she wants to

keep her painful secret forever to herself, she may be sure that her

child will be well fed, neatly clothed, taught to read and write, cared

for in health and morals, and trained in the religion of the Greek

Church, till he or she is old enough to be apprenticed, or adopted out

by some respectable citizen, and put in the way of an honest living.

But the most frequent patrons of the asylum are married folk. If they

have more children than they can rear, they turn over the surplus to

the state--more often as a loan than a gift. They know that the good

doctors and nurses of the institution will do all in their power to

preserve the little lives unharmed. At the end of five or six years

they are more likely to find their Nicolaievitch or Feodorovna well

and happy, than if it had run the dreadful gantlet of scarlet fever,

cholera infantum, and diphtheria in their own squalid homes. It is a

misfortune to feel obliged to surrender a child to such a corporation,

though the biggest of souls animates it. The parents are to be

pitied--perhaps blamed--but it is not a disgrace to them.

I said that anybody in Moscow could pilot you to the foundling asylum,

but you must know the Russian word for it. The landlord of your hotel

will give it to you, and you may commit it to memory, or write it

down by the sounds. It will not bear the slightest resemblance to

the name of a foundling asylum in French, German, Italian, or any

other language of which you may have a smattering. The surname of the

present writer has always appeared, when chalked in script on the

blackboard directories of Russian hotels, as “Tymour,” or something to

that effect. It reminded him of that monster in history--Timour the

Tartar--and such a liberty taken with his patronymic was not at all

agreeable.

But to get on to the foundling asylum. Before presenting myself at

the visitors’ door of the vast building, I took an admission-ticket

from my pocket-book. This ticket is made of flimsy paper, about four

inches long by three wide; it bears a portrait of the Tsar, a number

of Russian words, and a facsimile of somebody’s signature. It is

popularly known as the “ruble.” When a man has this between his thumb

and finger, so that it can be seen of men, it will take him through

doors that are locked and bolted to all other forms of passport. The

same gratifying effects follow the exhibition of the shilling in

England, the franc in France, the lira in Italy, the mark in Germany,

and the florin in Austria. The door was opened by a dignified person.

He loomed up so very large that I thought my ruble was a little too

small for his measure; so I did not offer it, but crumpled it suddenly

in the palm of my hand. The tall man looked as if he did not expect

or desire a “tip.” Speaking in French, he kindly asked me in, and I

followed him.

I was just in time to see something very interesting. We entered a room

at the end of a short passage. At that moment a poorly dressed old

woman was in the act of unrolling a huge bundle of shawls and wraps.

Over her was bending a matronly person with a very sympathetic face.

My polite guide drew near to this group of two, and I stood at his

elbow. The old woman peeled off the clothes as if she were unrolling

a mummy. Nobody spoke a word, but I heard a faint cry from the center

of the mysterious bundle. Then I knew that this was the reception-room

for babies, and that here was the newest of the comers. A moment more,

and a child was sprawling before us in its unadorned beauty. It lay in

the middle of the heap of shawls as in a soft nest, which it was loath

to quit. As it made another little piping cry, a tear moistened the

old woman’s eye, but she showed no other sign of agitation. I surmised

that she was the grandmother of the baby, and had come to discharge a

duty for which the mother was ashamed. The secret--whatever it was--was

confided to the care of the good matron alone, not even my guide being

allowed to share it. Then a little Greek cross of filigree silver was

handed over as a keepsake and means of identifying and reclaiming the

child.

These preliminaries over, the matron touched a bell. In response, there

came a woman bearing a steelyard scale, and a measuring-tape. She held

the scale aloft with a firm hand, and the matron lifted the baby gently

from its nest and placed it in the large bowl-like receptable for

weighing. Between its bare pink flesh and the cold metal there was a

thin sheet of soft cloth. The baby performed its part bravely, for it

lay perfectly quiet, while the matron rapidly adjusted the weight till

the beam hung true. She could not have done the job more carefully if

she had been selling the baby at a hundred rubles a pound. The exact

weight was then entered in a great ledger.

Next came the nice measuring of the head--all around just above the

eyes--and its length through the ears from crown to chin; then the

girth of its little body below the arms; and, finally, the candidate

was raised aloft again and turned in every direction in the strong

light of a large bay-window. The aspirants for the honor of the

princess’s hand in the “Arabian Nights” were not more critically

inspected for blemishes. The object of this minute examination of the

body was to note birth-marks, if any. Not one was found, as I can

certify, who witnessed the operation at short range. This over, a small

ticket or medal made of hard wood, numbered 11,283, and attached to

an India-rubber cord, was hung about baby’s neck. It would receive a

name later on; for the present it was only a numerical expression. Thus

ended the first stage of baby’s initiation. At that point, the old

woman whom I provisionally call “grandmother,” left the scene, carrying

the pile of shawls and wraps loosely upon her arm. If she felt any

emotions in parting with the child, she completely stifled them.

The baby, still stark naked, but not shivering in the warm air of the

room, was then carried away. The guide beckoned me to follow it with

him, and I did so. We entered a small bath-room where were a nice

porcelain-lined bath-tub, of baby size, with silver plated stop-cocks,

a showering apparatus, sponges, soap and scrubbing-brush all complete.

A stout woman, with fat arms bared clear to the shoulder, officiated

at baby’s first bath, and I was expected to see it through. It is one

of the penalties of visiting public institutions anywhere with guides,

that you are in their hands and must go the rounds. But I had become

interested in baby’s fortunes, and found myself watching the soaping

and sponging and scrubbing without being much bored. If that baby takes

all the ills of life as bravely as it took the water in its ears, and

the soap its eyes, then there will be one angelic disposition more in

this wicked world. It sputtered a little, but never cried or sniveled

once. After it was all wiped dry and powdered with a flour-dredger, the

stout woman shouldered her charge and led the way to another room. I

found myself really curious to see what would happen to baby next. So I

followed, with the guide at my heels.

We were now in the dressing-room; there was a large wardrobe with

glass doors; through these I could see baby-dresses hung on pegs. They

were variously trimmed with blue, red, and yellow ribbons, and I soon

found myself wondering which color would fall to baby’s share. Thus

concerned in its affairs had I unconsciously become. On shelves in the

wardrobe were displayed little stockings, soft knitted shoes, and caps.

There was plenty of clothes on hand for every emergency. The woman

reached up and took down a long, white dress trimmed with yellow. Now

I had noticed baby’s eyes and they were blue; so I took the liberty

of suggesting, through the guide, that the ribbons ought to match the

eyes. The hint was graciously adopted. If any future visitor to the

Foundling Asylum of Moscow should happen to observe the fine blue eyes

of No. 11,283, he will appreciate my good taste in matching them with

the ribbons, which, if worn out, I trust will be renewed.

“And, now,” said my guide, “you must see the baby nursed.” I murmured

a few modest objections. I did not wish to intrude upon such strictly

private functions. The nurse would not like it, etc. The guide smiled,

and said I must follow the baby. So we passed through another doorway,

and entered the nurses’ room.

It was a long apartment, spotless as to wooden floor and whitewashed

ceiling. Along one side was a row of strong, wooden cradles; on the

other side were the nurses’ beds with frames of iron. The sheets were

snowy and the pillows without crease. There were ten or twelve nurses

present, each one rocking a cradle or holding a child to her breast.

Ruddier and more robust women I never saw. They were mostly under

thirty years old, I should say. The contour of their faces was more

oval than the type of head seen between St. Petersburg and Moscow, and

they were handsomer in other respects. They were dressed for business

in neat and appropriate costumes, less scanty and more reserved than

one sees at the opera.

Inquiring, I learned that the best nurses come from provinces south

of Moscow, and that most of these were of that select class. As we

entered they arose, still nursing their babies, and courtesied to us

gracefully. At first, I felt that I ought to apologize for disturbing

this large but peaceful family. The nurses, however, soon put me at

ease. They took the visit quite as a matter of course. They could

not have been less self-conscious had I been an artist, and they

professional models. As we passed down the line, the guide chucked some

of the babies under the chin or patted their heads. Not to be singular

I did the same thing. Each nurse seemed to think the act complimentary

to herself, as well as to the baby. I dare say, if her own chin had

been chucked, she would not have taken offense. But we did not try it.

Near the end of the line stood a nurse, who had no baby in her arms.

The cradle just behind her was empty. Death had removed its little

tenant. She was the destined custodian of the neophyte in blue ribbons.

I was glad of it. In looking at her honest face and healthy complexion,

one felt sure that she was not to blame for that loss in the fold. The

nourishment she supplied must have been life-giving. On that broad and

generous bosom there was room for twins. As she saw the baby borne

toward her, she knew what it meant. Her large eyes shone with pleasure.

As the baby stopped opposite her, both reached out their arms. It was

an act of nature and spontaneous. That nurse and that child were made

for each other. Its own mother could not have folded it to her heart

more tenderly. I felt that I had no right to push curiosity further. I

was satisfied that baby’s fortunes, so far followed with interest, had

reached one happy stage. As I turned to depart, the last sounds I heard

from baby were faint gurgles of satisfaction.

My initiation into the mysteries of the foundling asylum was now

complete. I would gladly have stepped out of window on to the green

grass, with that touching picture of suckling innocence still in my

mind. But a guide, like a sentinel, must go his rounds. So I was

taken by moral force through other rooms full of nurses and babies,

whom I passed in review. The prevalent quietness of the infants was

surprising. Those who were awake were not crying. Like everybody else

in the building, they appeared to be on their good behavior during

my visit. One touch of human nature--if only the clinching of a tiny

fist--would have been a relief amid all that angelic display of sweet

temper. It made one suspect that they had been dosed with something to

keep them quiet. I was glad to pass on to the laundry, the hospital

(with only two or three little inmates) the kitchen and the pantry,

till finally we came to a refectory. There was a tableful of children

large enough to sit and ply the spoon. The oldest of the thirty or

forty could not have been more than six years. They were boys and

girls, simply and neatly dressed in uniform style. They all rose as we

entered, and held up their spoons in salute. It was a pretty sight and

more confusing to the visitor than one would think. Such courtesy seems

to demand a better response than a bow. A distribution of sugar-plums

or of small coin would seem the proper thing. But this is not allowed;

so that, all we can do, besides bowing, is to walk around this company

of little people, and smile at them in a vague, benevolent way. Through

the guide I begged them to be seated. They did not need to be asked

twice, for they were hungry, and I had interrupted them in the act

of eating what looked like hasty-pudding and milk. It recalled my own

early fondness for that dish, and I would gladly have been invited to

join the simple repast, even at the risk of spoiling a keen appetite

for the forthcoming elaborate dinner at the Slaviansky Bazaar. It was

a pleasure to note the size of the bowls. They held an honest quart

apiece, and had been so scrupulously filled that some of the children

stopped plying their spoons before they got to the bottom; others

rapidly emptied their bowls and polished off the interiors. For those

greedier ones there was still a supply of sweetened bread in stacks,

waiting a signal to be passed around. It was plain that the older

children, as well as the babies themselves, were objects of a provident

care which would shame many parents. Not otherwise can I explain

the bright eyes, contented faces, and chubby bodies I saw in that

refectory. Many of the children were strikingly good-looking. I recall

the seraphic face of a five-year-old girl, with large black eyes, and a

perfect mouth, and two dimples dotting cheeks of rose-leaves. And one

of the boys looked almost like a twin brother of the child in the arms

of the Sistine Madonna. There was the same dreamy, far-away gaze in his

eyes. I wondered how parents could abandon such beautiful children to

the care of other people.

This was the climax of interest at the foundling-asylum, as the guide

then candidly informed me upon being questioned. It was much against

the good man’s wishes that I tore myself away from him. But, I hope,

when I pressed a humble gift into his hand, that he felt the more

reconciled to my departure, though it is only due to him, as to all of

his class whom I met in Russia, to say that they have the rare tact of

not appearing to want one’s money. One always feels a little delicacy

about offering _pour boires_. But the truth binds me to say that they

are never declined.

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