1. Rites to be performed in the Interior of the Temple.

At the entrance, under the colonnade, some prayers are recited on first

sight of the Kaaba, and then two rikats, or four prostrations addressed

to the divinity, in thanks for having reached the holy spot, and in

salutation of the mosque itself; after which the pilgrim approaches the

Kaaba by one of the paved ways to it, through the open area in which it

stands. In passing under the insulated arch in front of the Kaaba,

called Bab-es’-Salam, certain prayers are said. Other prayers are

recited in a low voice, and the visitor then places himself opposite to

the black stone of the Kaaba, and prays two

[p.95] rikats; at the conclusion of which, the stone is touched with the

right hand, or kissed, if there is no great pressure of people. The

devotee then begins the Towaf, or walk round the Kaaba, keeping that

building on his left hand. This ceremony is to be repeated seven times;

the three first are in a quick pace, in imitation of the Prophet, whose

enemies having reported that he was dangerously ill, he contradicted

them by running thrice round the Kaaba at full speed. Every circuit must

be accompanied with prescribed prayers, which are recited in a low

voice, and appropriated to the different parts of the building that are

passed: the black stone is kissed or touched at the conclusion of each

circuit, as well as another stone, walled in at one corner of the black

stone. When the seven circuits are finished, the visiter approaches the

wall of the Kaaba, between the black stone and the door of the building,

which space is called El Metzem. There, with widely outstretched arms,

and with his breast closely pressed against the wall, he beseeches the

Lord to pardon his sins. He then retires towards the neighbouring Mekam

Ibrahim, and there prays two rikats, called Sunnet-et-towaf, after which

he repairs to the adjoining well of Zemzem; and, after a short pious

address in honour of the well, drinks as much of the water as he wishes,

or as he can on occasions when the crowd is very great; and this

completes the ceremonies to be observed within the temple.

I may here add, that the Towaf is a Muselman ceremony not exclusively

practised in the temple at Mekka. In the summer of 1813, I was present

at the annual festival of the patron saint of Kenne, in Upper Egypt,

called Seid Abderrahman el Kennawy. Many thousands of the people of the

country were assembled on the plain, in which stands the saint’s tomb,

at a distance of one mile from the town. Each person, as he arrived,

walked seven times round the small mosque which contains the tomb; and

when the new covering intended to be laid over it for that year was

brought in solemn procession, the whole assembly followed it seven times

round the building, after which it was placed upon the tomb.

[p.96] 2. Walk between Szafa and Meroua.

My guide, who, during the whole of the ceremonies above men­tioned, had

been close at my heels, reciting all the necessary prayers, which I

repeated after him, now led me out of the mosque by the gate called Bab-

es’-Szafa. About fifty yards from the S.E. side of the mosque, on a

slightly ascending ground, stand three small open arches, connected by

an architrave above, having below three broad stone steps leading up to

them.

This is called the Hill of Szafa: here, standing on the upper step, with

his face turned towards the mosque, which is hidden from view by

intervening houses, the pilgrim raises his hands towards heaven,

addresses a short prayer to the Deity, and implores his assistance in

the holy walk, or Say, as it is called; he then descends, to begin the

walk, along a level street about six hundred paces in length, which the

Arabian historians call Wady Szafa, leading towards Meroua, which is at

its farther extremity, where stands a stone platform, ele­vated about

six or eight feet above the level of the street, with several broad

steps ascending to it. The visiter is enjoined to walk at a quick pace

from Szafa to Meroua; and for a short space, which is marked by four

stones or pilasters, called El Myleyn el Akhdereyn, built into the walls

of the houses on both sides, he must run. Two of these stones seemed to

be of a green colour; they exhibit nume­rous inscriptions; but these are

so high in the walls, that it would be difficult to read them. Prayers

are recited uninterruptedly in a loud voice during this walk. Persons

who are unwell may ride, or be borne in a litter. On reaching Meroua,

the pilgrim ascends the