AN ACCOUNT OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS, SEAS, TOWNS, HAVENS, MOUNTAINS,
RIVERS, DISTANCES, AND PEOPLES WHO NOW EXIST OR FORMERLY EXISTED.
CHAP. 1. (1.)—EPIRUS.
The third great Gulf of Europe begins at the mountains of
Acroceraunia[2083], and ends at the Hellespont, embracing an extent of
2500 miles, exclusive of the sea-line of nineteen smaller gulfs. Upon
it are Epirus, Acarnania, Ætolia, Phocis, Locris, Achaia, Messenia,
Laconia, Argolis, Megaris, Attica, Bœotia; and again, upon the other
sea[2084], the same Phocis and Locris, Doris, Phthiotis, Thessalia,
Magnesia, Macedonia and Thracia. All the fabulous lore of Greece, as
well as the effulgence of her literature, first shone forth upon the
banks of this Gulf. We shall therefore dwell a little the longer upon
it.
Epirus[2085], generally so called, begins at the mountains of
Acroceraunia. The first people that we meet are the Chaones, from whom
Chaonia[2086] receives its name, then the Thesproti[2087], and then
the Antigonenses[2088]. We then come to the place where Aornos[2089]
stood, with its exhalations so deadly to the feathered race, the
Cestrini[2090], the Perrhæbi[2091], in whose country Mount Pindus is
situate, the Cassiopæi[2092], the Dryopes[2093], the Sellæ[2094], the
Hellopes[2095], the Molossi, in whose territory is the temple of the
Dodonæan Jupiter, so famous for its oracle; and Mount Tomarus[2096], so
highly praised by Theopompus, with its hundred springs gushing from its
foot.
(2.) Epirus, properly so called, advances towards Magnesia and
Macedonia, having at its back the Dassaretæ, previously[2097]
mentioned, a free nation, and after them the Dardani, a savage race.
On the left hand, before the Dardani are extended the Triballi and the
nations of Mœsia, while in front of them the Medi and the Denselatæ
join, and next to them the Thracians, who stretch away as far as the
Euxine: in such a manner is a rampart raised around the lofty heights
of Rhodope, and then of Hæmus.
On the coast of Epirus is the fortress of Chimæra[2098], situate upon
the Acroceraunian range, and below it the spring known as the Royal
Waters[2099]; then the towns of Mæandria, and Cestria[2100], the
Thyamis[2101], a river of Thesprotia, the colony of Buthrotum[2102],
and the Ambracian Gulf[2103], so famed in history; which, with an inlet
only half a mile in width, receives a vast body of water from the sea,
being thirty-seven miles in length, and fifteen in width. The river
Acheron, which runs through Acherusia, a lake of Thesprotia, flows
into it[2104] after a course of thirty-six miles; it is considered
wonderful for its bridge, 1000 feet in length, by a people who look
upon everything as wonderful that belongs to themselves. Upon this Gulf
is also situate the town of Ambracia. There are also the Aphas and the
Arachthus[2105], rivers of the Molossi; the city of Anactoria[2106],
and the place where Pandosia[2107] stood.
CHAP. 2.—ACARNANIA.
The towns of Acarnania[2108], the ancient name of which was Curetis,
are Heraclia[2109], Echinus[2110], and, on the coast, Actium, a colony
founded by Augustus, with its famous temple of Apollo and the free
city of Nicopolis[2111]. Passing out of the Ambracian Gulf into the
Ionian Sea, we come to the coast of Leucadia, with the Promontory of
Leucate[2112], and then the Gulf and the peninsula of Leucadia[2113],
which last was formerly called Neritis[2114]. By the exertions of
the inhabitants it was once cut off from the mainland, but was again
joined to it by the vast bodies of sand accumulated through the action
of the winds. This spot is called Dioryctos[2115], and is three
stadia in length: on the peninsula is the town of Leucas, formerly
called Neritus[2116]. We next come to Alyzia[2117], Stratos[2118],
and Argos[2119], surnamed Amphilochian, cities of the Acarnanians:
the river Acheloüs[2120] flows from the heights of Pindus, and,
after separating Acarnania from Ætolia, is fast adding the island of
Artemita[2121] to the mainland by the continual deposits of earth which
it brings down its stream.
CHAP. 3. (2.)—ÆTOLIA.
The peoples of Ætolia are the Athamanes[2122], the Tymphæi[2123], the
Ephyri[2124], the Ænienses, the Perrhæbi[2125], the Dolopes[2126], the
Maraces, and the Atraces[2127], in whose territory rises the river
Atrax, which flows into the Ionian Sea. Calydon[2128] is a city of
Ætolia, situate at a distance of seven miles from the sea, and near
the banks of the river Evenus[2129]. We then come to Macynia[2130],
and Molycria, behind which lie Mounts Chalcis[2131] and Taphiassus.
On the coast again, there is the promontory of Antirrhium[2132],
off which is the mouth of the Corinthian Gulf, which flows in and
separates Ætolia from the Peloponnesus, being less[2133] than one mile
in width. The promontory which faces it on the opposite side is called
Rhion[2134]. The towns of Ætolia, however, on the Corinthian Gulf
are Naupactus[2135] and Pylene[2136]; and, more inland, Pleuron and
Halicyrna[2137]. The most famous mountains are Tomarus, in the district
of Dodona, Crania[2138] in Ambracia, Aracynthus[2139] in Acarnania, and
Acanthon[2140], Panætolium[2141], and Macynium[2142], in Ætolia.
CHAP. 4. (3.)—LOCRIS AND PHOCIS.
Next to Ætolia are the Locri[2143], surnamed Ozolæ; a people exempt
from tribute. Here is the town of Œanthe[2144], the port[2145] of
Apollo Phæstius, and the Gulf of Crissa[2146]. In the interior are the
towns of Argyna, Eupalia[2147], Phæstum, and Calamisus. Beyond are the
Cirrhæan plains of Phocis, the town of Cirrha[2148], and the port of
Chalæon[2149], seven miles from which, in the interior, is situate
the free town of Delphi[2150], at the foot of Mount Parnassus[2151],
and having the most celebrated oracle of Apollo throughout the whole
world. There is the Fountain too of Castalia[2152], and the river
Cephisus[2153] which flows past Delphi, rising in the former city of
Lilæa[2154]. Besides these, there is the town of Crissa[2155] and that
of Anticyra[2156], with the Bulenses[2157]; as also Naulochum[2158],
Pyrrha, Amphissa[2159], exempt from all tribute, Tithrone,
Tritea[2160], Ambrysus[2161], and Drymæa[2162], which district has also
the name of Daulis. The extremity of the gulf washes one corner of
Bœotia, with its towns of Siphæ[2163] and Thebes[2164], surnamed the
Corsian, in the vicinity of Helicon[2165]. The third town of Bœotia
on this sea is that of Pagæ[2166], from which point the Isthmus of the
Peloponnesus projects in the form of a neck.
CHAP. 5. (4.)—THE PELOPONNESUS.
The Peloponnesus, which was formerly called Apia[2167] and Pelasgia,
is a peninsula, inferior in fame to no land upon the face of the
earth. Situate between the two seas, the Ægean and the Ionian, it is
in shape like the leaf of a plane-tree, in consequence of the angular
indentations made in its shores. According to Isidorus, it is 563 miles
in circumference; and nearly as much again, allowing for the sea-line
on the margin of its gulfs. The narrow pass at which it commences is
known by the name of the Isthmus. At this spot the two seas, which
we have previously mentioned, running from the north and the east,
invade the land from opposite sides[2168], and swallow up its entire
breadth, the result being that through these inroads in opposite
directions of such vast bodies of water, the sides of the land are
eaten away to such an extent, that Hellas[2169] only holds on to the
Peloponnesus by the narrow neck, five miles in width, which intervenes.
The Gulfs thus formed, the one on this side, the other on that, are
known as the Corinthian[2170] and the Saronic Gulfs. The ports of
Lecheæ[2171], on the one side, and of Cenchreæ on the other, form the
frontiers of this narrow passage, which thus compels to a tedious and
perilous circumnavigation such vessels as from their magnitude cannot
be carried across by land on vehicles. For this reason it is that both
King Demetrius[2172], Cæsar the Dictator, the prince Caius[2173], and
Domitius Nero[2174], have at different times made the attempt to cut
through this neck by forming a navigable canal; a profane design, as
may be clearly seen by the result[2175] in every one of these instances.
Upon the middle of this intervening neck which we have called the
Isthmus, stands the colony of Corinth, formerly known by the name
of Ephyre[2176], situate upon the brow of a hill, at a distance of
sixty stadia from the shore of either sea. From the heights of its
citadel, which is called Acrocorinthos, or the “Heights of Corinth,”
and in which is the Fountain of Pirene, it looks down upon the two
seas which lie in the opposite directions. From Leucas to Patræ upon
the Corinthian gulf is a distance of eighty-eight miles. The colony
of Patræ[2177] is founded upon the most extensive promontory of the
Peloponnesus, facing Ætolia and the river Evenus, the Corinthian Gulf
being, as we have previously[2178] stated, less than a mile in width at
the entrance there, though extending in length as far as the isthmus, a
distance of eighty-five miles.
CHAP. 6. (5.)—ACHAIA.
The province called Achaia[2179] begins at the Isthmus; from the
circumstance of its cities being ranged in regular succession on its
coast, it formerly had the name of Ægialos[2180]. The first place there
is Lecheæ, already mentioned, a port of the Corinthians; next to which
is Olyros[2181], a fortress of the people of Pellene[2182]; then the
former towns of Helice and Bura[2183], and the places in which their
inhabitants took refuge after their towns had been swallowed up by
the sea, Sicyon[2184] namely, Ægira[2185], Ægium, and Erineos[2186].
In the interior are Cleonæ and Hysiæ[2187]; then come the port of
Panormus[2188], and Rhium already mentioned; from which promontory,
Patræ, of which we have previously spoken, is distant five miles;
and then the place where Pheræ[2189] stood. Of the nine mountains of
Achaia, Scioessa is the most famous; there is also the Fountain of
Cymothoë. Beyond Patræ we find the town of Olenum[2190], the colony of
Dyme[2191], the places where Buprasium[2192] and Hyrmine once stood,
the Promontory of Araxus[2193], the Bay of Cyllene, and the Promontory
of Chelonates, at five miles’ distance from Cyllene[2194]. There is
also the fortress of Phlius[2195]; the district around which was called
by Homer Aræthyrea[2196], and, after his time, Asopis.
The territory of the Eleans then begins, who were formerly called Epei,
with the city of Elis[2197] in the interior, and, at a distance of
twelve miles from Phlius, being also in the interior, the temple of
Olympian Jupiter, which by the universal celebrity of its games, gives
to Greece its mode of reckoning[2198]. Here too once stood the town of
Pisa[2199], the river Alpheus flowing past it. On the coast there is
the Promontory of Ichthys[2200]. The river Alpheus is navigable six
miles, nearly as far as the towns of Aulon[2201] and Leprion. We next
come to the Promontory of Platanodes[2202]. All these localities lie to
the west.
CHAP. 7.—MESSENIA.
Further south is the Gulf of Cyparissus, with the city of
Cyparissa[2203] on its shores, the line of which is seventy-two miles
in length. Then, the towns of Pylos[2204] and Methone[2205], the place
where Helos stood, the Promontory of Acritas[2206], the Asinæan Gulf,
which takes its name from the town of Asine[2207], and the Coronean,
so called from Corone; which gulfs terminate at the Promontory of
Tænarum[2208]. These are all in the country of Messenia, which has
eighteen mountains, and the river Pamisus[2209] also. In the interior
are Messene[2210], Ithome, Œchalia, Arene[2211], Pteleon, Thryon,
Dorion[2212], and Zancle[2213], all of them known to fame at different
periods. The margin of this gulf measures eighty miles, the distance
across being thirty.
CHAP. 8.—LACONIA.
At Tænarum begins the territory of Laconia, inhabited by a free nation,
and situate on a gulf 106 miles in circuit, and 38 across. The towns
are, Tænarum[2214], Amyclæ[2215], Pheræ[2216], and Leuctra[2217];
and, in the interior, Sparta[2218], Theramne[2219], and the spots
where Cardamyle[2220], Pitane[2221], and Anthea formerly stood; the
former site of Thyrea[2222], and Gerania[2223]. Here is also Mount
Taygetus[2224], the river Eurotas, the Gulf of Ægilodes[2225], the
town of Psamathus, the Gulf of Gytheum[2226], so called from the town
of that name, from which place the passage is the safest across to the
island of Crete. All these places are bounded by the Promontory of
Malea[2227].
CHAP. 9.—ARGOLIS.
The next gulf, which extends as far as Scyllæum[2228], is called the
Argolic Gulf, being fifty miles across, and 162 in circuit. The towns
upon it are, Bœa[2229], Epidaurus[2230], surnamed Limera, Zarax[2231],
and the port of Cyphanta[2232]. The rivers are the Inachus[2233] and
the Erasinus, between which lies Argos, surnamed Hippium[2234], situate
beyond the place called Lerna[2235], and at a distance of two miles
from the sea. Nine miles farther is Mycenæ[2236], and the place where,
it is said, Tiryns[2237] stood; the site, too, of Mantinea[2238]. The
mountains are, Artemius, Apesantus[2239], Asterion[2240], Parparus, and
some others, eleven in number. The fountains are those of Niobe[2241],
Amymone, and Psamathe.
From Scyllæum to the Isthmus of Corinth is a distance of 177 miles. We
find here the towns of Hermione[2242], Trœzen[2243], Coryphasium[2244],
and Argos, sometimes called “Inachian,” sometimes “Dipsian”[2245]
Argos. Then comes the port of Schœnites[2246], and the Saronic
Gulf, which was formerly encircled with a grove of oaks[2247], from
which it derives its present name, oaks in ancient Greece having
been so called. Upon this gulf is the town of Epidaurus, famous for
its temple of Æsculapius[2248], the Promontory of Spiræum[2249],
the port of Anthedus[2250], Bucephalus[2251], and then Cenchreæ,
previously mentioned, on this side of the Isthmus, with its temple of
Neptune[2252], famous for the games celebrated there every five years.
So many are the gulfs which penetrate the shores of the Peloponnesus,
so many the seas which howl around it. Invaded by the Ionian on the
north, it is beaten by the Sicilian on the west, buffeted by the Cretan
on the south, by the Ægean on the S.E., and by the Myrtoan on the N.E.;
which last sea begins at the Gulf of Megara, and washes all the coast
of Attica.
CHAP. 10. (6.)—ARCADIA.
Its interior is occupied for the greater part by Arcadia, which, remote
from the sea on every side, was originally called Drymodes[2253], and
at a later period Pelasgis. The cities of Arcadia are, Psophis[2254],
Mantinea[2255], Stymphalus[2256], Tegea[2257], Antigonea[2258],
Orchomenus[2259], Pheneum[2260], Palantium[2261] (from which the
Palatium[2262] at Rome derives its name), Megalopolis[2263],
Gortyna[2264], Bucolium, Carnion, Parrhasia[2265], Thelpusa[2266],
Melænæ[2267], Heræa[2268], Pylæ[2269], Pallene, Agræ, Epium,
Cynæthæ[2270], Lepreon of Arcadia[2271], Parthenium[2272], Alea,
Methydrium[2273], Enispe, Macistum, Lampia, Clitorium[2274], and
Cleonæ[2275]; between which two last towns is the district of Nemea,
commonly known as Bembinadia[2276].
The mountains of Arcadia are, Pholoë[2277], with a town of the same
name, Cyllene[2278], Lycæus[2279], upon which is the temple of
Lycæan Jupiter; Mænalus[2280], Artemisius[2281], Parthenius[2282],
Lampeus[2283], and Nonacris[2284], besides eight others of no note.
The rivers are the Ladon[2285], which rises in the marshes of
Pheneus[2286], and the Erymanthus[2287], which springs from a mountain
of the same name, and flows into the Alpheus.
The other cities of Achaia worthy of mention are those of the
Aliphiræi[2288], the Abeatæ[2289], the Pyrgenses[2290], the
Paroreatæ[2291], the Paragenitæ, the Tortuni, the Typanei[2292], the
Thriasii[2293], and the Tritienses[2294]. Domitius Nero [the emperor]
granted liberty to the whole of Achaia[2295]. The Peloponnesus, from
the Promontory of Malea to the town of Ægium[2296] on the Corinthian
Gulf, is 190 miles in length, and 125 miles across from Elis to
Epidaurus; the distance being, from Olympia to Argos, through Arcadia,
sixty-eight miles. The distance from Olympia to Phlius has been already
mentioned[2297]. Throughout the whole of this region, as though nature
had been desirous to compensate for the inroads of the sea, seventy-six
mountains raise their lofty heads.
CHAP. 11. (7.)—ATTICA.
At the narrow neck of the Isthmus, Hellas begins, by our people known
as Græcia. The first state that presents itself is Attica, anciently
called Acte[2298]. It touches the Isthmus in that part of it which is
called Megaris, from the colony of Megara[2299], lying on the opposite
side to Pagæ[2300].
These two towns are situate at the spot where the Peloponnesus
projects to the greatest distance; being placed, one on each side,
upon the very shoulders of Hellas as it were. The Pagæans, as well
as the people of Ægosthena[2301], belong to the jurisdiction of
Megara. On the coast there is the port of Schœnos[2302], the towns
of Sidus[2303] and Cremmyon[2304], the Scironian Rocks[2305], six
miles in length, Geranea, Megara, and Eleusis[2306]. Œnoë[2307] and
Probalinthos also formerly existed here; the ports of Piræus and
Phalerum[2308] are distant from the Isthmus fifty-five miles, being
united to Athens, which lies in the interior, by a wall[2309] five
miles in length. Athens is a free city, and needs[2310] not a word
more from us in its commendation; of fame it enjoys even more than
enough. In Attica there are the Fountains of Cephisia[2311], Larine,
Callirrhoë Enneacrunos[2312], and the mountains of Brilessus[2313],
Ægialeus, Icarius, Hymettus[2314], Lycabettus[2315], and the place
where Ilissus[2316] stood. At the distance of forty-five miles from
the Piræus is the Promontory of Sunium[2317]. There is also the
Promontory of Thoricos[2318]; Potamos[2319], Steria[2320], and
Brauron[2321], once towns, the borough of Rhamnus[2322], the place
where Marathon[2323] stood, the Thriasian[2324] plain, the town of
Melite[2325], and Oropus[2326] upon the confines of Bœotia.
CHAP. 12.—BŒOTIA.
In this country are Anthedon[2327], Onchestus[2328], the free town
of Thespiæ[2329], Lebadea[2330], and then Thebes[2331], surnamed
Bœotian[2332], which does not yield the palm to Athens even in
celebrity; the native land, according to the common notion, of the
two Divinities Liber and Hercules. The birth-place of the Muses too
is pointed out in the grove of Helicon. To this same Thebes also
belong the forest of Cithæron[2333], and the river Ismenus. Besides
these, there are in Bœotia the Fountains of Œdipodia, Psamathe,
Dirce, Epicrane, Arethusa, Hippocrene[2334], Aganippe, and Gargaphie;
and, besides the mountains already mentioned, Mycalesos, Hadylius,
and Acontius. The remaining towns between Megara and Thebes are
Eleutheræ[2335], Haliartus[2336], Platææ[2337], Pheræ, Aspledon[2338],
Hyle[2339], Thisbe[2340], Erythræ[2341], Glissas[2342], and Copæ[2343];
near the river Cephisus, Larymna and Anchoa[2344]; as also Medeon,
Phlygone, Acræphia[2345], Coronea[2346], and Chæronea[2347]. Again,
on the coast and below Thebes, are Ocalea[2348], Heleon, Scolos,
Schœnos[2349], Peteon[2350], Hyriæ[2351], Mycalesos[2352], Iresion,
Pteleon, Olyros, and Tanagra[2353], the people of which are free; and,
situate upon the very mouth of the Euripus[2354], a strait formed by
the opposite island of Eubœa, Aulis[2355], so famous for its capacious
harbour. The Bœotians formerly had the name of Hyantes.
After them come the Locrians, surnamed Epicnemidii[2356], formerly
called Leleges, through whose country the river Cephisus passes, in its
course to the sea. Their towns are Opus[2357]; from which the Opuntian
Gulf[2358] takes its name, and Cynos. Daphnus[2359] is the only town of
Phocis situate on the coast. In the interior of Locris is Elatea[2360],
and on the banks of the Cephisus, as we have previously stated[2361],
Lilæa, and, facing Delphi, Cnemisæ[2362] and Hyampolisæ[2363]. Again,
upon the coast of the Locrians, are Larymna[2364], and Thronium[2365],
near which last the river Boagrius enters the sea. Also, the towns of
Narycion, Alope[2366], and Scarphia[2367]; and then the gulf which
receives the name of the Maliac[2368] from the people who dwell there,
and upon which are the towns of Halcyone, Econia, and Phalara[2369].
CHAP. 13.—DORIS.
Doris comes next, in which are Sperchios[2370], Erineon[2371],
Boion[2372], Pindus, and Cytinum[2373]. Behind Doris lies Mount Œta.
CHAP. 14.—PHTHIOTIS.
Hæmonia follows, a country which has often changed its name, having
been successively called Pelasgic Argos, Hellas, Thessaly, and Dryopis,
always taking its surname from its kings. In this country was born
the king whose name was Græcus; and from whom Græcia was so called;
and here too was born Hellen[2374], from whom the Hellenes derive
their name. The same people Homer has called by three different names,
Myrmidones, Hellenes, and Achæi.
That portion of these people which inhabit the country adjacent to
Doris are called Phthiotæ. Their towns are Echinus[2375], at the mouth
of the river Sperchius, and, at four miles from the narrow pass
of Thermopylæ[2376], Heraclea, which from it takes its surname of
Trachin[2377]. Here too is Mount Callidromus[2378], and the celebrated
towns of Hellas[2379], Halos[2380], Lamia[2381], Phthia[2382], and
Arne[2383].
CHAP. 15. (8.)—THESSALY PROPER.
In Thessaly is Orchomenus, formerly called the Minyan[2384], and the
towns of Almon, by some called Salmon, Atrax[2385], and Pelinna;
the Fountain of Hyperia; the towns also of Pheræ[2386], at the back
of which is Pieria[2387], extending to Macedonia, Larisa[2388],
Gomphi[2389], Thebes[2390] of Thessaly, the grove of Pteleon, the
Gulf of Pagasa, the town of Pagasa[2391], which was afterwards called
Demetrias[2392], the Plains of Pharsalia, with a free city of similar
name[2393], Crannon[2394], and Iletia. The mountains of Phthiotis
are Nymphæus, once so beautiful for its garden scenery, the work of
nature; Busygæus, Donacesa, Bermius[2395], Daphusa, Chimerion, Athamas,
and Stephane. In Thessaly there are thirty-four, of which the most
famous are Cercetii, Olympus[2396], Pierus, and Ossa, opposite to
which last are Pindus and Othrys, the abodes of the Lapithæ. These
mountains look towards the west, Pelion[2397] towards the east, all of
them forming a curve like an amphitheatre, in the interior of which,
lying before them, are no less than seventy-five cities. The rivers of
Thessaly are the Apidanus[2398], the Phœnix[2399], the Enipeus[2400],
the Onochonus[2401], and the Pamisus. There is also the Fountain
of Messeis, and the lake Bœbeis[2402]. The river Peneus[2403] too,
superior to all others in celebrity, takes its rise near Gomphi, and
flows down a well-wooded valley between Ossa and Olympus, a distance
of five hundred stadia, being navigable half that distance. The vale,
for a distance of five miles through which this river runs, is called
by the name of Tempe; being a jugerum[2404] and a half nearly in
breadth, while on the right and left, the mountain chain slopes away
with a gentle elevation, beyond the range of human vision, the foliage
imparting its colour to the light within. Along this vale glides the
Peneus, reflecting the green tints as it rolls along its pebbly bed,
its banks covered with tufts of verdant herbage, and enlivened by the
melodious warblings of the birds. The Peneus receives the river Orcus,
or rather, I should say, does not receive it, but merely carries its
waters, which swim on its surface like oil, as Homer says[2405]; and
then, after a short time, rejects them, refusing to allow the waters of
a river devoted to penal sufferings and engendered for the Furies to
mingle with his silvery streams.
CHAP. 16. (9.)—MAGNESIA.
To Thessaly Magnesia joins, in which is the fountain of Libethra[2406].
Its towns are Iolcos[2407], Hormenium, Pyrrha[2408], Methone[2409],
and Olizon[2410]. The Promontory of Sepias[2411] is here situate. We
then come to the towns of Casthanea[2412] and Spalathra[2413], the
Promontory of Æantium[2414], the towns of Melibœa[2415], Rhizus, and
Erymnæ[2416]; the mouth of the Peneus, the towns of Homolium[2417],
Orthe, Thespiæ, Phalanna[2418], Thaumacie[2419], Gyrton[2420],
Crannon[2421], Acharne[2422], Dotion[2423], Melitæa, Phylace[2424], and
Potniæ[2425]. The length of Epirus, Achaia, Attica, and Thessaly is
said altogether to amount to 490 miles, the breadth to 287.
CHAP. 17. (10.)—MACEDONIA.
Macedonia comes next, including 150 nations, and renowned for its two
kings[2426] and its former empire over the world; it was formerly known
by the name of Emathia[2427]. Stretching away towards the nations
of Epirus on the west it lies at the back of Magnesia and Thessaly,
being itself exposed to the attacks of the Dardani[2428]. Pæonia and
Pelagonia protect its northern parts from the Triballi[2429]. Its
towns are Ægiæ[2430], at which place its kings were usually buried,
Beræa[2431], and, in the country called Pieria from the grove of that
name, Æginium[2432]. Upon the coast are Heraclea[2433], the river
Apilas[2434], the towns of Pydna[2435] and Aloros[2436], and the
river Haliacmon[2437]. In the interior are the Aloritæ[2438], the
Vallæi[2439], the Phylacæi, the Cyrrhestæ[2440], the Tyrissæi, the
colony of Pella[2441], and Stobi[2442], a town with the rights of Roman
citizens. Next comes Antigonea[2443], Europus[2444] upon the river
Axius, and another place of the same name by which the Rhœdias flows,
Scydra, Eordæa, Mieza, and Gordyniæ. Then, upon the coast, Ichnæ[2445],
and the river Axius; along this frontier the Dardani, the Treres[2446],
and the Pieres, border on Macedonia. Leaving this river, there are the
nations of Pæonia[2447], the Paroræi[2448], the Eordenses[2449], the
Almopii[2450], the Pelagones, and the Mygdones[2451].
Next come the mountains of Rhodope, Scopius, and Orbelus; and,
lying along the extent of country in front of these mountains, the
Arethusii[2452], the Antiochienses[2453], the Idomenenses[2454], the
Doberi[2455], the Æstræenses, the Allantenses, the Audaristenses, the
Morylli, the Garesci[2456], the Lyncestæ[2457], the Othryonei[2458],
and the Amantini[2459] and Orestæ[2460], both of them free peoples; the
colonies of Bullis[2461] and Dium[2462], the Xylopolitæ, the Scotussæi,
a free people, Heraclea Sintica[2463], the Tymphæi[2464], and the
Toronæi.
Upon the coast of the Macedonian Gulf there are the town of
Chalastra[2465], and, more inland, Piloros; also Lete, and at the
extreme bend of the Gulf, Thessalonica[2466], a free city; (from this
place to Dyrrhachium it is 245 miles[2467],) and then Thermæ[2468].
Upon the Gulf[2469] of Thermæ are the towns of Dicæa, Pydna[2470],
Derra, Scione[2471], the Promontory of Canastræum[2472], and the towns
of Pallene[2473] and Phlegra. In this region also are the mountains
Hypsizorus, Epitus, Halcyone, and Leoomne; the towns of Nyssos[2474],
Phryxelon, Mendæ, and what was formerly Potidæa[2475] on the isthmus
of Pallene, but now the Colony of Cassandria; Anthemus[2476],
Olophyxus[2477], and the Gulf of Mecyberna[2478]; the towns of
Miscella, Ampelos[2479], Torone[2480], Singos[2481], and the canal,
a mile and a half in length, by means of which Xerxes, king of the
Persians, cut off Mount Athos[2482] from the main land. This mountain
projects from the level plain of the adjacent country into the sea,
a distance of seventy-five[2483] miles; its circumference at its
base being 150 miles in extent. There was formerly upon its summit
the town of Acroathon[2484]: the present towns are Uranopolis[2485],
Palæorium, Thyssus, Cleonæ[2486], and Apollonia, the inhabitants
of which have the surname of Macrobii[2487]. The town also of
Cassera, and then the other side of the Isthmus, after which come
Acanthus[2488], Stagira[2489], Sithone[2490], Heraclea[2491], and the
country of Mygdonia that lies below, in which are situate, at some
distance from the sea, Apollonia[2492] and Arethusa. Again, upon the
coast we have Posidium[2493], and the bay with the town of Cermorus,
Amphipolis[2494], a free town, and the nation of the Bisaltæ. We
then come to the river Strymon[2495] which takes its rise in Mount
Hæmus[2496] and forms the boundary of Macedonia: it is worthy of remark
that it first discharges itself into seven lakes before it proceeds
onward in its course.
Such is Macedonia, which was once the mistress of the world, which
once extended[2497] her career over Asia, Armenia, Iberia, Albania,
Cappadocia, Syria, Egypt, Taurus, and Caucasus, which reduced the
whole of the East under her power, and triumphed over the Bactri, the
Medes, and the Persians. She too it was who proved the conqueror of
India, thus treading in the footsteps of Father Liber[2498] and of
Hercules; and this is that same Macedonia, of which our own general
Paulus Æmilius sold to pillage seventy-two[2499] cities in one day. So
great the difference in her lot resulting from the actions of two[2500]
individuals!
CHAP. 18. (11.)—THRACE; THE ÆGEAN SEA.
Thrace now follows, divided into fifty strategies[2501], and to be
reckoned among the most powerful nations of Europe. Among its peoples
whom we ought not to omit to name are the Denseletæ and the Medi,
dwelling upon the right bank of the Strymon, and joining up to the
Bisaltæ above[2502] mentioned; on the left there are the Digerri and
a number of tribes of the Bessi[2503], with various names, as far
as the river Mestus[2504], which winds around the foot of Mount
Pangæum[2505], passing among the Elethi, the Diobessi[2506], the
Carbilesi; and then the Brysæ, the Sapæi, and the Odomanti. The
territory of the Odrysæ[2507] gives birth to the Hebrus[2508], its
banks being inhabited by the Cabyleti, the Pyrogeri, the Drugeri, the
Cænici, the Hypsalti, the Beni, the Corpili, the Bottiæi, and the
Edoni[2509]. In the same district are also the Selletæ, the Priantæ,
the Doloncæ, the Thyni, and the Greater Cœletæ, below Mount Hæmus,
the Lesser at the foot of Rhodope. Between these tribes runs the
river Hebrus. We then come to a town at the foot of Rhodope, first
called Poneropolis[2510], afterwards Philippopolis[2511] from the
name of its founder, and now, from the peculiarity of its situation,
Trimontium[2512]. To reach the summit of Hæmus you have to travel
six[2513] miles. The sides of it that look in the opposite direction
and slope towards the Ister are inhabited by the Mœsi[2514], the
Getæ, the Aorsi, the Gaudæ, and the Clariæ; below them, are the Arræi
Sarmatæ[2515], also called Arreatæ, the Scythians, and, about the
shores of the Euxine, the Moriseni and the Sithonii, the forefathers of
the poet Orpheus[2516], dwell.
Thus is Thrace bounded by the Ister on the north, by the Euxine, and
the Propontis[2517] on the east, and by the Ægean Sea on the south;
on the coast of which, after leaving the Strymon, we come in turn
to Apollonia[2518], Œsyma[2519], Neapolis[2520] and Datos. In the
interior is the colony of Philippi[2521], distant from Dyrrhachium
325 miles; also Scotussa[2522], the city of Topiris, the mouth of the
river Mestus[2523], Mount Pangæus, Heraclea[2524], Olynthos[2525],
Abdera[2526], a free city, the people of the Bistones[2527] and their
Lake. Here was formerly the city of Tirida, which struck such terror
with its stables of the horses[2528] of Diomedes. At the present day we
find here Dicæa[2529], Ismaron[2530], the place where Parthenion stood,
Phalesina, and Maronea[2531], formerly called Orthagorea. We then
come to Mount Serrium[2532] and Zone[2533], and then the place called
Doriscus[2534], capable of containing ten thousand men, for it was in
bodies of ten thousand that Xerxes here numbered his army. We then come
to the mouth of the Hebrus[2535], the Port of Stentor, and the free
town of Ænos[2536], with the tomb there of Polydorus[2537], the region
formerly of the Cicones.
From Doriscus there is a winding coast as far as Macron Tichos[2538],
or the “Long Wall,” a distance of 122 miles; round Doriscus flows the
river Melas, from which the Gulf of Melas[2539] receives its name. The
towns are, Cypsela[2540], Bisanthe[2541], and Macron Tichos, already
mentioned, so called because a wall extends from that spot between the
two seas,—that is to say, from the Propontis to the Gulf of Melas, thus
excluding the Chersonesus[2542], which projects beyond it.
The other side of Thrace now begins, on the coast[2543] of the Euxine,
where the river Ister discharges itself; and it is in this quarter
perhaps that Thrace possesses the finest cities, Histropolis[2544],
namely, founded by the Milesians, Tomi[2545], and Callatis[2546],
formerly called Acervetis. It also had the cities of Heraclea and
Bizone, which latter was swallowed up by an earthquake; it now has
Dionysopolis[2547], formerly called Cruni, which is washed by the
river Zyras. All this country was formerly possessed by the Scythians,
surnamed Aroteres; their towns were, Aphrodisias, Libistos, Zygere,
Rocobe, Eumenia, Parthenopolis, and Gerania[2548], where a nation
of Pigmies is said to have dwelt; the barbarians used to call them
Cattuzi, and entertain a belief that they were put to flight by cranes.
Upon the coast, proceeding from Dionysopolis, is Odessus[2549], a
city of the Milesians, the river Panysus[2550], and the town of
Tetranaulochus. Mount Hæmus, which, with its vast chain, overhangs the
Euxine, had in former times upon its summit the town of Aristæum[2551].
At the present day there are upon the coast Mesembria[2552], and
Anchialum[2553], where Messa formerly stood. The region of Astice
formerly had a town called Anthium; at the present day Apollonia[2554]
occupies its site. The rivers here are the Panisos, the Riras, the
Tearus, and the Orosines; there are also the towns of Thynias[2555],
Halmydessos[2556], Develton[2557], with its lake, now known as
Deultum, a colony of veterans, and Phinopolis, near which last is the
Bosporus[2558]. From the mouth of the Ister to the entrance of the
Euxine, some writers have made to be a distance of 555 miles; Agrippa,
however, increases the length by sixty miles. The distance thence to
Macron Tichos, or the Long Wall, previously mentioned, is 150 miles;
and, from it to the extremity of the Chersonesus, 126.
On leaving the Bosporus we come to the Gulf of Casthenes[2559], and two
harbours, the one called the Old Men’s Haven, and the other the Women’s
Haven. Next comes the promontory of Chrysoceras[2560], upon which is
the town of Byzantium[2561], a free state, formerly called Lygos,
distant from Dyrrhachium 711 miles,—so great being the space of land
that intervenes between the Adriatic Sea and the Propontis. We next
come to the rivers Bathynias and Pydaras[2562], or Athyras, and the
towns of Selymbria[2563] and Perinthus[2564], which join the mainland
by a neck only 200 feet in width. In the interior are Bizya[2565],
a citadel of the kings of Thrace, and hated by the swallows, in
consequence of the sacrilegious crime of Tereus[2566]; the district
called Cænica[2567], and the colony of Flaviopolis, where formerly
stood a town called Cæla. Then, at a distance of fifty miles from
Bizya, we come to the colony of Apros, distant from Philippi 180 miles.
Upon the coast is the river Erginus[2568]; here formerly stood the town
of Ganos[2569]; and Lysimachia[2570] in the Chersonesus is being now
gradually deserted.
At this spot there is another isthmus[2571], similar in name to the
other[2572], and of about equal width; and, in a manner by no means
dissimilar, two cities formerly stood on the shore, one on either
side, Pactye on the side of the Propontis, and Cardia[2573] on that of
the Gulf of Melas, the latter deriving its name from the shape[2574]
which the land assumes. These, however, were afterwards united with
Lysimachia[2575], which stands at a distance of five miles from Macron
Tichos. The Chersonesus formerly had, on the side of the Propontis,
the towns of Tiristasis, Crithotes, and Cissa[2576], on the banks of
the river Ægos[2577]; it now has, at a distance of twenty-two[2578]
miles from the colony of Apros, Resistos, which stands opposite to
the colony of Parium. The Hellespont also, which separates, as we
have already[2579] stated, Europe from Asia, by a channel seven
stadia in width, has four cities facing each other, Callipolis[2580]
and Sestos[2581] in Europe, and Lampsacus[2582] and Abydos[2583] in
Asia. On the Chersonesus, there is the promontory of Mastusia[2584],
lying opposite to Sigeum[2585]; upon one side of it stands the
Cynossema[2586] (for so the tomb of Hecuba is called), the naval
station[2587] of the Achæans, and a tower; and near it the shrine[2588]
of Protesilaüs. On the extreme front of the Chersonesus, which is
called Æolium, there is the city of Elæus. Advancing thence towards
the Gulf of Melas, we have the port of Cœlos[2589], Panormus, and then
Cardia, previously mentioned.
In this manner is the third great Gulf of Europe bounded. The mountains
of Thrace, besides those already mentioned, are Edonus, Gigemoros,
Meritus, and Melamphyllos; the rivers are the Bargus and the Syrmus,
which fall into the Hebrus. The length of Macedonia, Thrace, and the
Hellespont has been already[2590] mentioned; some writers, however,
make it 720 miles, the breadth being 384.
What may be called a rock rather than an island, lying between Tenos
and Chios, has given its name to the Ægean Sea; it has the name of
Æx[2591] from its strong resemblance to a goat, which is so called in
Greek, and shoots precipitately from out of the middle of the sea.
Those who are sailing towards the isle of Andros from Achaia, see this
rock on the left, boding no good, and warning them of its dangers.
Part of the Ægean Sea bears the name of Myrtoan[2592], being so called
from the small island [of Myrtos] which is seen as you sail towards
Macedonia from Geræstus, not far from Carystus[2593] in Eubœa. The
Romans include all these seas under two names,—the Macedonian, in
those parts where it touches the coasts of Macedonia or Thrace, and
the Grecian where it washes the shores of Greece. The Greeks, however,
divide the Ionian Sea into the Sicilian and the Cretan Seas, after the
name of those islands; and they give the name of Icarian to that part
which lies between Samos and Myconos. The gulfs which we have already
mentioned, have given to these seas the rest of their names. Such,
then, are the seas and the various nations which are comprehended in
the third great Gulf of Europe.
CHAP. 19. (12.)—THE ISLANDS WHICH LIE BEFORE THE LANDS ALREADY
MENTIONED.
Lying opposite to Thesprotia, at a distance of twelve miles from
Buthrotus, and of fifty from Acroceraunia, is the island of
Corcyra[2594], with a city of the same name, the citizens of which
are free; also a town called Cassiope[2595], and a temple dedicated
to Jupiter Cassius. This island is ninety-seven miles in length, and
in Homer has the names of Scheria and Phæacia; while Callimachus
calls it Drepane. There are some other islands around it, such as
Thoronos[2596], lying in the direction of Italy, and the two islands
of Paxos[2597] in that of Leucadia, both of them five miles distant
from Corcyra. Not far[2598] from these, and in front of Corcyra, are
Ericusa, Marathe, Elaphusa, Malthace, Trachie, Pythionia, Ptychia,
Tarachie, and, off Phalacrum[2599], a promontory of Corcyra, the rock
into which (according to the story, which arises no doubt from the
similarity of appearance) the ship of Ulysses was changed.
Before Leucimna[2600] we find the islands of Sybota, and between
Leucadia and Achaia a great number of islands, among which are those
called Teleboïdes[2601], as also Taphiæ; by the natives, those which
lie before Leucadia are called by the names of Taphias, Oxiæ, and
Prinoessa[2602]; while those that are in front of Ætolia are the
Echinades[2603], consisting of Ægialia, Cotonis, Thyatira, Geoaris,
Dionysia, Cyrnus, Chalcis, Pinara, and Mystus.
In front of these, and lying out at sea, are Cephallenia[2604] and
Zacynthus[2605], both of them free, Ithaca[2606], Dulichium[2607],
Same[2608], and Crocyle[2609]. Cephallenia, formerly known as
Melæna[2610], lies at a distance of eleven miles from Paxos, and is
ninety-three miles in circumference: its city of Same has been levelled
to the ground by the Romans; but it still possesses three others[2611].
Between this island and Achaia lies the island of Zacynthus, remarkable
for its city of the same name, and for its singular fertility. It
formerly had the name of Hyrie, and lies to the south of Cephallenia,
at a distance of twenty-five miles; in it there is the famous mountain
of Elatus[2612]. This island is thirty-six miles in circumference.
At a distance of fifteen miles from Zacynthus is Ithaca, in which is
Mount Neritus[2613]; its circumference in all is twenty-five miles.
Twelve miles distant from this island is Araxus[2614], a promontory
of the Peloponnesus. Before Ithaca, lying out in the main sea, are
Asteris[2615] and Prote; and before Zacynthus, at a distance of
thirty-five miles in the direction of the south-east wind, are the two
Strophades[2616], by some known as the Plotæ. Before Cephallenia lies
Letoia[2617], before Pylos the three Sphagiæ[2618], and before Messene
the Œnussæ[2619], as many in number.
In the Asinæan Gulf there are the three Thyrides[2620], and in that of
Laconia Theganusa[2621], Cothon, and Cythera[2622], with the town of
that name, the former name of which island was Porphyris. It is situate
five miles from the promontory of Malea[2623], thus forming a strait
very dangerous to navigation. In the Gulf of Argolis are Pityusa[2624],
Irine, and Ephyre; opposite the territory of Hermione[2625], Tiparenus,
Aperopia[2626], Colonis[2627], and Aristera; and, opposite that of
Trœzen, Calauria[2628], at a distance of half a mile, Plateis[2629],
Belbina, Lasia, and Baucidias. Opposite Epidaurus is Cecryphalos[2630],
and Pityonesos[2631], six miles distant from the mainland; and, at a
distance of fifteen miles from this last, Ægina[2632], a free island,
the length of which, as you sail past it, is eighteen miles. This
island is twenty miles distant from Piræus, the port of Athens: it used
formerly to be called Œnone. Opposite the promontory of Spiræum[2633],
lie Eleusa[2634], Adendros[2635], the two islands called Craugiæ, the
two Cæciæ, Selachusa, Cenchreis, and Aspis; as also, in the Gulf of
Megara, the four Methurides. Ægila[2636] lies at a distance of fifteen
miles from Cythera, and of twenty-five from Phalasarna, a city of
Crete.
CHAP. 20.—CRETE.
Crete itself lies from east to west, the one side facing the south,
the other the north, and is known to fame by the renown of its hundred
cities. Dosiades says, that it took its name from the nymph Crete,
the daughter of Hesperides[2637]; Anaximander, from a king of the
Curetes, Philistides of Mallus * * * * *; while Crates says that it
was at first called Aëria, and after that Curetis; and some have been
of opinion that it had the name of Macaron[2638] from the serenity of
its climate. In breadth it nowhere exceeds fifty miles, being widest
about the middle. In length, however, it is full 270 miles, and 589
in circumference, forming a bend towards the Cretan Sea, which takes
its name from it. At its eastern extremity is the Promontory of
Sammonium[2639], facing Rhodes, while towards the west it throws out
that of Criumetopon[2640], in the direction of Cyrene.
The more remarkable cities of Crete are, Phalasarna, Etæa[2641],
Cisamon[2642], Pergamum, Cydonia[2643], Minoium[2644], Apteron[2645],
Pantomatrium, Amphimalla[2646], Rhithymna, Panormus, Cytæum, Apollonia,
Matium[2647], Heraclea, Miletos, Ampelos, Hierapytna[2648],
Lebena[2649], and Hierapolis; and, in the interior, Gortyna[2650],
Phæstum, Cnossus[2651], Polyrrenium, Myrina, Lycastus, Rhamnus,
Lyctus, Dium[2652], Asus, Pyloros, Rhytion, Elatos, Pharæ, Holopyxos,
Lasos, Eleuthernæ[2653], Therapnæ, Marathusa, and Tylisos; besides
some sixty others, of which the memory only exists. The mountains are
those of Cadistus[2654], Ida, Dictynnæus, and Corycus[2655]. This
island is distant, at its promontory of Criumetopon, according to
Agrippa, from Phycus[2656], the promontory of Cyrene, 125 miles; and at
Cadistus, from Malea in the Peloponnesus, eighty. From the island of
Carpathos[2657], at its promontory of Sammonium it lies in a westerly
direction, at a distance of sixty miles; this last-named island is
situate between it and Rhodes.
The other islands in its vicinity, and lying in front of the
Peloponnesus, are the two isles known as Corycæ, and the two called
Mylæ[2658]. On the north side, having Crete on the right, and opposite
to Cydonia, is Leuce[2659], and the two islands known as Budroæ[2660].
Opposite to Matium lies Dia[2661]; opposite to the promontory of
Itanum[2662], Onisia and Leuce; and over against Hierapytna, Chrysa and
Gaudos[2663]. In the same neighbourhood, also, are Ophiussa, Butoa, and
Aradus; and, after doubling Criumetopon, we come to the three islands
known as Musagorus. Before the promontory of Sammonium lie the islands
of Phocœ, the Platiæ, the Sirnides, Naulochos, Armedon, and Zephyre.
Belonging to Hellas, but still in the Ægean Sea, we have the
Lichades[2664], consisting of Scarphia, Coresa, Phocaria, and many
others which face Attica, but have no towns upon them, and are
consequently of little note. Opposite Eleusis, however, is the
far-famed Salamis[2665]; before it, Psyttalia[2666]; and, at a distance
of five miles from Sunium, the island of Helene[2667]. At the same
distance from this last is Ceos[2668], which some of our countrymen
have called Cea, and the Greeks Hydrussa, an island which has been
torn away from Eubœa. It was formerly 500 stadia in length; but more
recently four-fifths of it, in the direction of Bœotia, have been
swallowed up by the sea. The only towns it now has left are Iulis and
Carthæa[2669]; Coresus[2670] and Pœëessa[2671] have perished. Varro
informs us, that from this place there used to come a cloth of very
fine texture, used for women’s dresses.
CHAP. 21.—EUBŒA.
Eubœa[2672] itself has also been rent away from Bœotia; the channel of
the Euripus, which flows between them, being so narrow as to admit of
the opposite shores being united by a bridge[2673]. At the south, this
island is remarkable for its two promontories, that of Geræstus[2674],
which looks towards Attica, and that of Caphareus[2675], which faces
the Hellespont; on the north it has that of Cenæum[2676]. In no part
does this island extend to a greater breadth than forty miles, while
it never contracts to less than two. In length it runs along the
whole coast of Bœotia, extending from Attica as far as Thessaly, a
distance of 150 miles[2677]. In circumference it measures 365, and is
distant from the Hellespont, on the side of Caphareus, 225 miles. The
cities for which it was formerly famous were, Pyrrha, Porthmos, Nesos,
Cerinthos[2678], Oreum, Dium, Ædepsos[2679], Ocha, and Œchalia; at
present it is ennobled by those of Chalcis[2680] (opposite which, on
the mainland, is Aulis), Geræstus[2681], Eretria[2682], Carystus[2683],
Oritanum, and Artemisium[2684]. Here are also the Fountain of
Arethusa[2685], the river Lelantus, and the warm springs known as
Ellopiæ; it is still better known, however, for the marble of Carystus.
This island used formerly to be called Chalcodontis and Macris[2686],
as we learn from Dionysius and Ephorus; according to Aristides, Macra;
also, as Callidemus says, Chalcis, because copper was first discovered
here. Menæchmus says that it was called Abantias[2687], and the poets
generally give it the name of Asopis.
CHAP. 22.—THE CYCLADES.
Beyond Eubœa, and out in the Myrtoan[2688] Sea, are numerous other
islands; but those more especially famous are, Glauconnesos and the
Ægila[2689]. Off the promontory, too, of Geræstus are the Cyclades,
lying in a circle around Delos, from which circumstance[2690] they
derive their name. The first of them is the one called Andros[2691]
with a city of the same name, distant from Geræstus ten miles, and
from Ceos thirty-nine. Myrsilus tells us that this island was at first
called Cauros, and after that Antandros; Callimachus calls it Lasia,
and others again Nonagria, Hydrussa, and Epagris. It is ninety-three
miles in circumference. At a distance of one mile from Andros and of
fifteen from Delos, is Tenos[2692], with a city of the same name; this
island is fifteen miles in length. Aristotle says that it was formerly
called Hydrussa, from the abundance of water found here, while some
writers call it Ophiussa[2693]. The other islands are, Myconos[2694],
with the mountain of Dimastus[2695], distant from Delos fifteen[2696]
miles; Siphnus[2697], formerly called Meropia and Acis, twenty-eight
miles in circumference; Seriphus[2698], twelve miles in circuit;
Prepesinthus[2699]; Cythnos[2700]; and then, by far the most famous
among the Cyclades, and lying in the very middle of them, Delos[2701]
itself, so famous for its temple of Apollo, and its extensive commerce.
This island long floated on the waves, and, as tradition says, was
the only one that had never experienced an earthquake, down to the
time of M. Varro[2702]; Mucianus however has informed us, that it has
been twice so visited. Aristotle states that this island received its
name from the fact of its having so suddenly made its appearance[2703]
on emerging from the sea; Aglaosthenes, however, gives it the name
of Cynthia, and others of Ortygia[2704], Asteria, Lagia, Chlamydia,
Cynthus, and, from the circumstance of fire having been first
discovered here, Pyrpile. Its circumference is five miles only; Mount
Cynthus[2705] here raises his head.
Next to this island is Rhene[2706], which Anticlides calls by the
name of Celadussa, and Callidemus, Artemite; Scyros[2707], which the
old writers have stated to be twenty miles in circumference, but
Mucianus 160; Oliaros[2708]; and Paros[2709], with a city of the
same name, distant from Delos thirty-eight miles, and famous for its
marble[2710]; it was first called Platea, and after that, Minois. At
a distance of seven miles from this last island is Naxos[2711], with
a town of the same name; it is eighteen miles distant from Delos.
This island was formerly called Strongyle[2712], then Dia, and then
Dionysias[2713], in consequence of the fruitfulness of its vineyards;
others again have called it the Lesser Sicily, or Callipolis[2714]. It
is seventy-five[2715] miles in circumference—half as large again as
Paros.
CHAP. 23.—THE SPORADES.
The islands thus far are considered as belonging to the Cyclades; the
rest that follow are the Sporades[2716]. These are, Helene[2717],
Phacussa, Nicasia, Schinussa, Pholegandros, and, at a distance
of thirty-eight miles from Naxos, Icaros[2718], which has given
its name to the surrounding sea, and is the same number of miles
in length[2719], with two cities, and a third now no longer in
existence: this island used formerly to be called Doliche, Macris,
and Ichthyoëssa[2720]. It is situate fifty miles to the north-east of
Delos, and thirty-five from the island of Samos. Between Eubœa and
Andros, there is an arm of the sea ten miles in width, and from Icaros
to Geræstus is a distance of 112-1/2 miles.
After we pass these, no regular order can be well observed; the rest
must therefore be mentioned indiscriminately. There is the island
of Scyros[2721], and that of Ios[2722], eighteen miles distant from
Naxos, and deserving of all veneration for the tomb there of Homer; it
is twenty-five miles in length, and was formerly known by the name of
Phœnice; also Odia, Oletandros, and Gyara[2723], with a city of the
same name, the island being twelve miles in circumference, and distant
from Andros sixty-two. At a distance of eighty miles from Gyara is
Syrnos, then Cynæthus, Telos[2724], noted for its unguents, and by
Callimachus called Agathussa, Donusa[2725], Patmos[2726], thirty miles
in circumference, the Corassiæ[2727], Lebinthus[2728], Leros[2729],
Cinara[2730]; Sicinus[2731], formerly called Œnoë[2732]; Hieracia,
also called Onus; Casos[2733], likewise called Astrabe; Cimolus[2734],
or Echinussa; and Melos[2735], with a city of that name, which island
Aristides calls Memblis, Aristotle Zephyria, Callimachus Mimallis,
Heraclides Siphis and Acytos. This last is the most circular[2736]
in form of all these islands. After this comes Machia, then Hypere,
formerly Patage, or, as others have it, Platage, but now called
Amorgos[2737], Polyægos[2738], Phyle, and Thera[2739], known as
Calliste when it first sprang from the waves. From this, at a later
period, the island of Therasia[2740] was torn away, and between the
two afterwards arose Automate, also called Hiera, and Thia, which in
our own times came into existence in the vicinity of these islands. Ios
is distant from Thera twenty-five miles.
Next to these follow Lea, Ascania[2741], Anaphe[2742], Hippuris, and
Astypalæa[2743], a free state. This island is eighty-eight miles in
circumference, and 125 miles distant from Cadistus, in Crete. From
Astypalæa, Platea is distant sixty miles, and Caminia thirty-eight from
this last. We then come to the islands of Azibintha, Lanise, Tragæa,
Pharmacussa, Techedia, Chalcia[2744], Calymna[2745], in which is the
town of Coös, Calymna, at a distance of twenty-five miles from which is
Carpathum[2746], which has given its name to the Carpathian Sea. The
distance thence to Rhodes[2747], in the direction of the south-west
wind, is fifty miles. From Carpathum to Casus is seven miles, and from
Casus to Sammonium, the promontory of Crete, thirty[2748]. In the
Euripus of Eubœa, almost at the very mouth of it, are the four islands
called Petaliæ[2749]; and, at its outlet, Atalante[2750]. The Cyclades
and the Sporades are bounded on the east by the Asiatic shores of the
Icarian Sea, on the west by the Attic shores of the Myrtoan Sea, on the
north by the Ægean, and on the south by the Cretan and Carpathian seas,
extending 700 miles in length, and 200 in breadth.
The Gulf of Pagasa[2751] has in front of it Euthia[2752],
Cicynethus[2753], Scyros, previously mentioned[2754], and the very
furthermost of the Cyclades and Sporades, Gerontia and Scandila[2755];
the Gulf of Thermæ[2756], Iræsia, Solimnia, Eudemia, and Nea,
which last is sacred to Minerva. Athos has before it four islands;
Peparethus[2757], formerly called Evœnus, with a city of that name,
at a distance from Athos of nine miles; Sciathus[2758], at a distance
of fifteen, and Imbros[2759], with a city of the same name, at a
distance of eighty-eight miles. This last island is distant from
Mastusia, in the Chersonesus, twenty-five miles; it is sixty-two[2760]
miles in circumference, and is washed by the river Ilisus. At a
distance of twenty-two miles from it is Lemnos[2761], being distant
from Mount Athos eighty-seven; it is 112 miles in circumference, and
has the cities of Hephæstia and Myrina[2762]; into the market-place
of which last city Athos throws its shadow at the summer solstice.
The island of Thasos[2763], constituting a free state, is six miles
distant from Lemnos; it formerly had the name of Aëria, or Æthria.
Abdera[2764], on the mainland, is distant from Thasos twenty-two miles,
Athos sixty-two[2765]. The island of Samothrace[2766], a free state,
facing the river Hebrus, is the same distance from Thasos, being
also thirty-two[2767] miles from Imbros, twenty-two from Lemnos, and
thirty-eight[2768] from the coast of Thrace; it is thirty-two miles in
circumference, and in it rises Mount Saoce[2769], ten miles in height.
This island is the most inaccessible of them all. Callimachus mentions
it by its ancient name of Dardania.
Between the Chersonesus and Samothrace, at a distance of about fifteen
miles from them both, is the island of Halonnesos[2770], and beyond
it Gethone, Lamponia, and Alopeconnesus[2771], not far from Cœlos, a
port[2772] of the Chersonesus, besides some others of no importance.
The following names may be also mentioned, as those of uninhabited
islands in this gulf, of which we have been enabled to discover the
names:—Desticos, Sarnos, Cyssiros, Charbrusa, Calathusa, Scylla,
Draconon, Arconnesus, Diethusa, Scapos, Capheris, Mesate, Æantion,
Pateronnesos, Pateria, Calate, Neriphus, and Polendos[2773].
CHAP. 24.—THE HELLESPONT.—THE LAKE MÆOTIS.
The fourth great Gulf of Europe begins at the Hellespont and ends
at the entrance of the Mæotis[2774]. But in order that the several
portions of the Euxine and its coasts may be the better known, we must
briefly embrace the form of it in one general view. This vast sea,
lying in front of Asia, is shut out from Europe by the projection of
the shores of the Chersonesus, and effects an entrance into those
countries by a narrow channel only, of the width, as already mentioned,
of seven stadia, thus separating Europe from Asia. The entrance of
these Straits is called the Hellespont; over it Xerxes, the king of the
Persians, constructed a bridge of boats, across which he led his army.
A narrow channel extends thence a distance of eighty-six miles, as far
as Priapus[2775], a city of Asia, at which Alexander the Great passed
over. At this point the sea becomes wider, and after some distance
again takes the form of a narrow strait. The wider part is known as the
Propontis[2776], the Straits as the Thracian Bosporus[2777], being only
half-a-mile in width, at the place where Darius, the father of Xerxes,
led his troops across by a bridge. The extremity of this is distant
from the Hellespont 239 miles.
We then come to the vast sea called the Euxine, which invades the land
as it retreats afar, and the name of which was formerly Axenus[2778].
As the shores bend inwards, this sea with a vast sweep stretches far
away, curving on both sides after the manner of a pair of horns, so
much so that in shape it bears a distinct resemblance to a Scythian
bow[2779]. In the middle of the curve it is joined by the mouth of
Lake Mæotis, which is called the Cimmerian[2780] Bosporus, and is two
miles and a half in width. Between the two Bospori, the Thracian and
the Cimmerian, there is a distance in a straight line, of 500 miles,
as Polybius informs us. We learn from Varro and most of the ancient
writers, that the circumference of the Euxine is altogether 2150 miles;
but to this number Cornelius Nepos adds 350 more; while Artemidorus
makes it 2919 miles, Agrippa 2360, and Mucianus 2425. In a similar
manner some writers have fixed the length of the European shores of
this sea at 1478 miles, others again at 1172. M. Varro gives the
measurement as follows:—from the mouth of the Euxine to Apollonia 187
miles, and to Callatis the same distance; thence to the mouth of the
Ister 125 miles; to the Borysthenes 250; to Chersonesus[2781], a town
of the Heracleotæ, 325; to Panticapæum[2782], by some called Bosporus,
at the very extremity of the shores of Europe, 212 miles: the whole
of which added together, makes 1337[2783] miles. Agrippa makes the
distance from Byzantium to the river Ister 560 miles, and from thence
to Panticapæum, 635.
Lake Mæotis, which receives the river Tanais as it flows from the
Riphæan Mountains[2784], and forms the extreme boundary between Europe
and Asia, is said to be 1406 miles in circumference; which however some
writers state at only 1125. From the entrance of this lake to the mouth
of the Tanais in a straight line is, it is generally agreed, a distance
of 375 miles.
The inhabitants of the coasts of this fourth great Gulf of Europe, as
far as Istropolis, have been already[2785] mentioned in our account of
Thrace. Passing beyond that spot we come to the mouths of the Ister.
This river rises in Germany in the heights of Mount Abnoba[2786],
opposite to Rauricum[2787], a town of Gaul, and flows for a course
of many miles beyond the Alps and through nations innumerable, under
the name of the Danube. Adding immensely to the volume of its waters,
at the spot where it first enters Illyricum, it assumes the name of
Ister, and, after receiving sixty rivers, nearly one half of which are
navigable, rolls into the Euxine by six[2788] vast channels. The first
of these is the mouth of Peuce[2789], close to which is the island of
Peuce itself, from which the neighbouring channel takes its name; this
mouth is swallowed up in a great swamp nineteen miles in length. From
the same channel too, above Istropolis, a lake[2790] takes its rise,
sixty-three miles in circuit; its name is Halmyris. The second mouth
is called Naracu-Stoma[2791]; the third, which is near the island
of Sarmatica, is called Calon-Stoma[2792]; the fourth is known as
Pseudo-Stomon[2793], with its island called Conopon-Diabasis[2794];
after which come the Boreon-Stoma[2795] and the Psilon-Stoma[2796].
These mouths are each of them so considerable, that for a distance of
forty miles, it is said, the saltness of the sea is quite overpowered,
and the water found to be fresh.
CHAP. 25.—DACIA, SARMATIA.
On setting out from this spot, all the nations met with are Scythian
in general, though various races have occupied the adjacent shores;
at one spot the Getæ[2797], by the Romans called Daci; at another
the Sarmatæ, by the Greeks called Sauromatæ, and the Hamaxobii[2798]
or Aorsi, a branch of them; then again the base-born Scythians and
descendants of slaves, or else the Troglodytæ[2799]; and then, after
them, the Alani[2800] and the Rhoxalani. The higher[2801] parts again,
between the Danube and the Hercynian Forest[2802], as far as the
winter quarters of Pannonia at Carnuntum[2803], and the borders of the
Germans, are occupied by the Sarmatian Iazyges[2804], who inhabit the
level country and the plains, while the Daci, whom they have driven
as far as the river Pathissus[2805], inhabit the mountain and forest
ranges. On leaving the river Marus[2806], whether it is that or the
Duria[2807], that separates them from the Suevi and the kingdom of
Vannius[2808], the Basternæ, and, after them, other tribes of the
Germans occupy the opposite sides[2809]. Agrippa considers the whole of
this region, from the Ister to the ocean, to be 2100 miles in length,
and 4400 miles in breadth to the river Vistula in the deserts[2810] of
Sarmatia. The name “Scythian” has extended, in every direction, even
to the Sarmatæ and the Germans; but this ancient appellation is now
only given to those who dwell beyond those nations, and live unknown to
nearly all the rest of the world.
CHAP. 26.—SCYTHIA.
Leaving the Ister, we come to the towns of Cremniscos[2811], Æpolium,
the mountains of Macrocremnus, and the famous river Tyra[2812], which
gives name to a town on the spot where Ophiusa is said formerly to
have stood. The Tyragetæ inhabit a large island[2813] situate in this
river, which is distant from Pseudostomos, a mouth of the Ister,
so called, 130 miles. We then come to the Axiacæ, who take their
name from the river Axiaces[2814], and beyond them, the Crobyzi,
the river Rhodes[2815], the Sagarian Gulf[2816], and the port of
Ordesos[2817]. At a distance of 120 miles from the Tyra is the river
Borysthenes[2818], with a lake and a people of similar name, as also
a town[2819] in the interior, at a distance of fifteen miles from
the sea, the ancient names of which were Olbiopolis and Miletopolis.
Again, on the shore is the port of the Achæi, and the island of
Achilles[2820], famous for the tomb there of that hero, and, at a
distance of 125 miles from it, a peninsula which stretches forth in the
shape of a sword, in an oblique direction, and is called, from having
been his place of exercise, Dromos Achilleos[2821]: the length of this,
according to Agrippa, is eighty miles. The Taurian Scythians and the
Siraci[2822] occupy all this tract of country.
At this spot begins a well-wooded district[2823], which has given
to the sea that washes its banks the name of the Hylæan Sea; its
inhabitants are called Enœchadlæ[2824]. Beyond them is the river
Panticapes[2825], which separates the Nomades[2826] and the Georgi, and
after it the Acesinus[2827]. Some authors say that the Panticapes flows
into the Borysthenes below Olbia[2828]. Others, who are more correct,
say that it is the Hypanis[2829]: so great is the mistake made by those
who have placed it[2830] in Asia.
The sea runs in here and forms a large gulf[2831], until there is
only an intervening space[2832] of five miles between it and the Lake
Mæotis, its margin forming the sea-line of extensive tracts of land,
and numerous nations; it is known as the Gulf of Carcinites. Here we
find the river Pacyris[2833], the towns of Navarum and Carcine[2834],
and behind it Lake Buges[2835], which discharges itself by a channel
into the sea. This Buges is separated by a ridge of rocks[2836] from
Coretus, a gulf in the Lake Mæotis; it receives the rivers Buges[2837],
Gerrus[2838], and Hypacaris[2839], which approach it from regions that
lie in various directions. For the Gerrus separates the Basilidæ from
the Nomades, the Hypacaris flows through the Nomades and the Hylæi, by
an artificial channel into Lake Buges, and by its natural one into the
Gulf of Coretus: this region bears the name of Scythia Sindice.
At the river Carcinites, Scythia Taurica[2840] begins, which was once
covered by the sea, where we now see level plains extended on every
side: beyond this the land rises into mountains of great elevation.
The peoples here are thirty in number, of which twenty-three dwell in
the interior, six of the cities being inhabited by the Orgocyni, the
Characeni[2841], the Lagyrani, the Tractari, the Arsilachitæ, and the
Caliordi. The Scythotauri possess the range of mountains: on the west
they are bounded by the Chersonesus, and on the east by the Scythian
Satarchæ[2842]. On the shore, after we leave Carcinites, we find the
following towns; Taphræ[2843], situate on the very isthmus of the
peninsula, and then Heraclea Chersonesus[2844], to which its freedom
has been granted[2845] by the Romans. This place was formerly called
Megarice, being the most polished city throughout all these regions, in
consequence of its strict preservation of Grecian manners and customs.
A wall, five miles in length, surrounds it. Next to this comes the
Promontory of Parthenium[2846], the city of the Tauri, Placia, the port
of the Symboli[2847], and the Promontory of Criumetopon[2848], opposite
to Carambis[2849], a promontory of Asia, which runs out in the middle
of the Euxine, leaving an intervening space between them of 170 miles,
which circumstance it is in especial that gives to this sea the form of
a Scythian bow. After leaving this headland we come to a great number
of harbours and lakes of the Tauri[2850]. The town of Theodosia[2851]
is distant from Criumetopon 125 miles, and from Chersonesus 165. Beyond
it there were, in former times, the towns of Cytæ, Zephyrium, Acræ,
Nymphæum, and Dia. Panticapæum[2852], a city of the Milesians, by
far the strongest of them all, is still in existence; it lies at the
entrance of the Bosporus, and is distant from Theodosia eighty-seven
miles and a half, and from the town of Cimmerium, which lies on the
other side of the Strait, as we have previously[2853] stated, two miles
and a half. Such is the width here of the channel which separates Asia
from Europe, and which too, from being generally quite frozen over,
allows of a passage on foot. The width of the Cimmerian Bosporus[2854]
is twelve miles and a half: it contains the towns of Hermisium[2855],
Myrmecium, and, in the interior[2856] of it, the island of Alopece.
From the spot called Taphræ[2857], at the extremity of the isthmus,
to the mouth of the Bosporus, along the line of the Lake Mæotis, is a
distance of 260 miles.
Leaving Taphræ, and going along the mainland, we find in the interior
the Auchetæ[2858], in whose country the Hypanis has its rise, as
also the Neurœ, in whose district the Borysthenes has its source,
the Geloni[2859], the Thyssagetæ, the Budini, the Basilidæ, and
the Agathyrsi[2860] with their azure-coloured hair. Above them are
the Nomades, and then a nation of Anthropophagi or cannibals. On
leaving Lake Buges, above the Lake Mæotis we come to the Sauromatæ
and the Essedones[2861]. Along the coast, as far as the river
Tanais[2862], are the Mæotæ, from whom the lake derives its name,
and the last of all, in the rear of them, the Arimaspi. We then come
to the Riphæan[2863] mountains, and the region known by the name of
Pterophoros[2864], because of the perpetual fall of snow there, the
flakes of which resemble feathers; a part of the world which has been
condemned by the decree of nature to lie immersed in thick darkness;
suited for nothing but the generation of cold, and to be the asylum of
the chilling blasts of the northern winds.
Behind these mountains, and beyond the region of the northern winds,
there dwells, if we choose to believe it, a happy race, known as the
Hyperborei[2865], a race that lives to an extreme old age, and which
has been the subject of many marvellous stories[2866]. At this spot
are supposed to be the hinges upon which the world revolves, and the
extreme limits of the revolutions of the stars. Here we find light
for six months together, given by the sun in one continuous day, who
does not, however, as some ignorant persons have asserted, conceal
himself from the vernal equinox[2867] to autumn. On the contrary, to
these people there is but one rising of the sun for the year, and that
at the summer solstice, and but one setting, at the winter solstice.
This region, warmed by the rays of the sun, is of a most delightful
temperature, and exempt from every noxious blast. The abodes of the
natives are the woods and groves; the gods receive their worship singly
and in groups, while all discord and every kind of sickness are things
utterly unknown. Death comes upon them only when satiated with life;
after a career of feasting, in an old age sated with every luxury, they
leap from a certain rock there into the sea; and this they deem the
most desirable mode of ending existence. Some writers have placed these
people, not in Europe, but at the very verge of the shores of Asia,
because we find there a people called the Attacori[2868], who greatly
resemble them and occupy a very similar locality. Other writers again
have placed them midway between the two suns, at the spot where it sets
to the Antipodes and rises to us; a thing however that cannot possibly
be, in consequence of the vast tract of sea which there intervenes.
Those writers who place them nowhere[2869] but under a day which lasts
for six months, state that in the morning they sow, at mid-day they
reap, at sunset they gather in the fruits of the trees, and during the
night conceal themselves in caves. Nor are we at liberty to entertain
any doubts as to the existence of this race; so many authors[2870]
are there who assert that they were in the habit of sending their
first-fruits to Delos to present them to Apollo, whom in especial they
worship. Virgins used to carry them, who for many years were held in
high veneration, and received the rites of hospitality from the nations
that lay on the route; until at last, in consequence of repeated
violations of good faith, the Hyperboreans came to the determination
to deposit these offerings upon the frontiers of the people who
adjoined them, and they in their turn were to convey them on to their
neighbours, and so from one to the other, till they should have arrived
at Delos. However, this custom, even, in time fell into disuse.
The length of Sarmatia, Scythia, and Taurica, and of the whole of the
region which extends from the river Borysthenes, is, according to
Agrippa, 980 miles, and its breadth 717. I am of opinion, however, that
in this part of the earth all estimates of measurement are exceedingly
doubtful.
CHAP. 27.—THE ISLANDS OF THE EUXINE. THE ISLANDS OF THE NORTHERN OCEAN.
But now, in conformity with the plan which I originally proposed, the
remaining portions of this gulf must be described. As for its seas, we
have already made mention of them.
(13.) The Hellespont has no islands belonging to Europe that are worthy
of mention. In the Euxine there are, at a distance of a mile and a half
from the European shore, and of fourteen from the mouth of the Strait,
the two Cyanæan[2871] islands, by some called the Symplegades[2872],
and stated in fabulous story to have run the one against the other;
the reason being the circumstance that they are separated by so short
an interval, that while to those who enter the Euxine opposite to them
they appear to be two distinct islands, but if viewed in a somewhat
oblique direction they have the appearance of becoming gradually united
into one. On this side of the Ister there is the single island[2873]
of the Apolloniates, eighty miles from the Thracian Bosporus; it was
from this place that M. Lucullus brought the Capitoline[2874] Apollo.
Those islands which are to be found between the mouths of the Ister we
have already mentioned[2875]. Before the Borysthenes is Achillea[2876]
previously referred to, known also by the names of Leuce and
Macaron[2877]. Researches which have been made at the present day place
this island at a distance of 140 miles from the Borysthenes, of 120
from Tyra, and of fifty from the island of Peuce. It is about ten miles
in circumference. The remaining islands in the Gulf of Carcinites are
Cephalonnesos, Rhosphodusa, and Macra. Before we leave the Euxine, we
must not omit to notice the opinion expressed by many writers that all
the interior[2878] seas take their rise in this one as the principal
source, and not at the Straits of Gades. The reason they give for this
supposition is not an improbable one—the fact that the tide is always
running out of the Euxine and that there is never any ebb.
We must now leave the Euxine to describe the outer portions[2879] of
Europe. After passing the Riphæan mountains we have now to follow
the shores of the Northern Ocean on the left, until we arrive at
Gades. In this direction a great number of islands[2880] are said to
exist that have no name; among which there is one which lies opposite
to Scythia, mentioned under the name of Raunonia[2881], and said
to be at a distance of the day’s sail from the mainland; and upon
which, according to Timæus, amber is thrown up by the waves in the
spring season. As to the remaining parts of these shores, they are
only known from reports of doubtful authority. With reference to the
Septentrional[2882] or Northern Ocean; Hecatæus calls it, after we
have passed the mouth of the river Parapanisus, where it washes the
Scythian shores, the Amalchian sea, the word ‘Amalchian’ signifying
in the language of these races, frozen. Philemon again says that it
is called Morimarusa or the “Dead Sea” by the Cimbri, as far as the
Promontory of Rubeas, beyond which it has the name of the Cronian[2883]
Sea. Xenophon of Lampsacus tells us that at a distance of three days’
sail from the shores of Scythia, there is an island of immense size
called Baltia[2884], which by Pytheas is called Basilia[2885]. Some
islands[2886] called Oönæ are said to be here, the inhabitants of
which live on the eggs of birds and oats; and others again upon which
human beings are produced with the feet of horses, thence called
Hippopodes. Some other islands are also mentioned as those of the
Panotii, the people of which have ears of such extraordinary size as to
cover the rest of the body, which is otherwise left naked.
Leaving these however, we come to the nation of the Ingævones[2887],
the first in Germany; at which we begin to have some information
upon which more implicit reliance can be placed. In their country is
an immense mountain called Sevo[2888], not less than those of the
Riphæan range, and which forms an immense gulf along the shore as
far as the Promontory of the Cimbri. This gulf, which has the name
of the ‘Codanian,’ is filled with islands; the most famous among
which is Scandinavia[2889], of a magnitude as yet unascertained: the
only portion of it at all known is inhabited by the nation of the
Hilleviones, who dwell in 500 villages, and call it a second world: it
is generally supposed that the island of Eningia[2890] is of not less
magnitude. Some writers state that these regions, as far as the river
Vistula, are inhabited by the Sarmati, the Venedi[2891], the Sciri,
and the Hirri[2892], and that there is a gulf there known by the name
of Cylipenus[2893], at the mouth of which is the island of Latris,
after which comes another gulf, that of Lagnus, which borders on the
Cimbri. The Cimbrian Promontory, running out into the sea for a great
distance, forms a peninsula which bears the name of Cartris[2894].
Passing this coast, there are three and twenty islands which have
been made known by the Roman arms[2895]: the most famous of which is
Burcana[2896], called by our people Fabaria, from the resemblance
borne[2897] by a fruit which grows there spontaneously. There are those
also called Glæsaria[2898] by our soldiers, from their amber; but by
the barbarians they are known as Austeravia and Actania.
CHAP. 28.—GERMANY.
The whole of the shores of this sea as far as the Scaldis[2899], a
river of Germany, is inhabited by nations, the dimensions of whose
respective territories it is quite impossible to state, so immensely
do the authors differ who have touched upon this subject. The Greek
writers and some of our own countrymen have stated the coast of
Germany to be 2500 miles in extent, while Agrippa, comprising Rhætia
and Noricum in his estimate, makes the length to be 686[2900] miles,
and the breadth 148[2901]. (14.) The breadth of Rhætia alone however
very nearly exceeds that number of miles, and indeed we ought to state
that it was only subjugated at about the period of the death of that
general; while as for Germany, the whole of it was not thoroughly known
to us for many years after his time. If I may be allowed to form a
conjecture, the margin of the coast will be found to be not far short
of the estimate of the Greek writers, while the distance in a straight
line will nearly correspond with that mentioned by Agrippa.
There are five German races; the Vandili[2902], parts of whom are
the Burgundiones[2903], the Varini[2904], the Carini[2905], and the
Gutones[2906]: the Ingævones, forming a second race, a portion of
whom are the Cimbri[2907], the Teutoni[2908], and the tribes of the
Chauci[2909]. The Istævones[2910], who join up to the Rhine, and to
whom the Cimbri[2911] belong, are the third race; while the Hermiones,
forming a fourth, dwell in the interior, and include the Suevi[2912],
the Hermunduri[2913], the Chatti[2914], and the Cherusci[2915]: the
fifth race is that of the Peucini[2916], who are also the Basternæ,
adjoining the Daci previously mentioned. The more famous rivers
that flow into the ocean are the Guttalus[2917], the Vistillus or
Vistula, the Albis[2918], the Visurgis[2919], the Amisius[2920], the
Rhine, and the Mosa[2921]. In the interior is the long extent of the
Hercynian[2922] range, which in grandeur is inferior to none.
CHAP. 29. (15.)—NINETY-SIX ISLANDS OF THE GALLIC OCEAN.
In the Rhine itself, nearly 100 miles in length, is the most famous
island[2923] of the Batavi and the Canninefates, as also other
islands of the Frisii[2924], the Chauci, the Frisiabones[2925], the
Sturii[2926], and the Marsacii, which lie between Helium[2927] and
Flevum[2928]. These are the names of the mouths into which the Rhine
divides itself, discharging its waters on the north into the lakes
there, and on the west into the river Mosa. At the middle mouth which
lies between these two, the river, having but a very small channel,
preserves its own name.
CHAP. 30. (16.)—BRITANNIA.
Opposite to this coast is the island called Britannia, so celebrated
in the records of Greece[2929] and of our own country. It is situate
to the north-west, and, with a large tract of intervening sea, lies
opposite to Germany, Gaul, and Spain, by far the greater part of
Europe. Its former name was Albion[2930]; but at a later period, all
the islands, of which we shall just now briefly make mention, were
included under the name of “Britanniæ.” This island is distant from
Gesoriacum, on the coast of the nation of the Morini[2931], at the
spot where the passage across is the shortest, fifty miles. Pytheas
and Isidorus say that its circumference is 4875 miles. It is barely
thirty years since any extensive knowledge of it was gained by the
successes of the Roman arms, and even as yet they have not penetrated
beyond the vicinity of the Caledonian[2932] forest. Agrippa believes
its length to be 800 miles, and its breadth 300; he also thinks that
the breadth of Hibernia is the same, but that its length is less by
200 miles. This last island is situate beyond Britannia, the passage
across being the shortest from the territory of the Silures[2933],
a distance of thirty miles. Of the remaining islands none is said
to have a greater circumference than 125 miles. Among these there
are the Orcades[2934], forty in number, and situate within a short
distance of each other, the seven islands called Acmodæ[2935], the
Hæbudes, thirty in number, and, between Hibernia and Britannia, the
islands of Mona[2936], Monapia[2937], Ricina[2938], Vectis[2939],
Limnus[2940], and Andros[2941]. Below it are the islands called Samnis
and Axantos[2942], and opposite, scattered in the German Sea, are those
known as the Glæsariæ[2943], but which the Greeks have more recently
called the Electrides, from the circumstance of their producing
_electrum_ or amber. The most remote of all that we find mentioned is
Thule[2944], in which, as we have previously stated[2945], there is no
night at the summer solstice, when the sun is passing through the sign
of Cancer, while on the other hand at the winter solstice there is no
day. Some writers are of opinion that this state of things lasts for
six whole months together. Timæus the historian says that an island
called Mictis[2946] is within six days’ sail of Britannia, in which
white lead[2947] is found; and that the Britons sail over to it in
boats of osier[2948], covered with sewed hides. There are writers also
who make mention of some other islands, Scandia[2949] namely, Dumna,
Bergos, and, greater than all, Nerigos, from which persons embark for
Thule. At one day’s sail from Thule is the frozen ocean, which by some
is called the Cronian Sea.
CHAP. 31. (17.)—GALLIA BELGICA.
The whole of Gaul that is comprehended under the one general name of
_Comata_[2950], is divided into three races of people, which are more
especially kept distinct from each other by the following rivers. From
the Scaldis to the Sequana[2951] it is Belgic Gaul; from the Sequana
to the Garumna[2952] it is Celtic Gaul or Lugdunensis[2953]; and from
the Garumna to the promontory of the Pyrenæan range it is Aquitanian
Gaul, formerly called Aremorica[2954]. Agrippa makes the entire length
of the coast of Gaul to be 1800 miles, measured from the Rhine to the
Pyrenees: and its length, from the ocean to the mountains of Gebenna
and Jura, excluding therefrom Gallia Narbonensis, he computes at 420
miles, the breadth being 318.
Beginning at the Scaldis, the parts beyond[2955] are inhabited by the
Toxandri, who are divided into various peoples with many names; after
whom come the Menapii[2956], the Morini[2957], the Oromarsaci[2958],
who are adjacent to the burgh which is known as Gesoriacum[2959],
the Britanni[2960], the Ambiani[2961], the Bellovaci[2962], the
Hassi[2963], and, more in the interior, the Catoslugi[2964], the
Atrebates[2965], the Nervii[2966], a free people, the Veromandui[2967],
the Suæuconi[2968], the Suessiones[2969], a free people, the
Ulmanetes[2970], a free people, the Tungri[2971], the Sunuci[2972], the
Frisiabones[2973], the Betasi[2974], the Leuci[2975], a free people,
the Treveri[2976], who were formerly free, and the Lingones[2977],
a federal state, the federal Remi[2978], the Mediomatrici[2979], the
Sequani[2980], the Raurici[2981], and the Helvetii[2982]. The Roman
colonies are Equestris[2983] and Rauriaca[2984]. The nations of
Germany which dwell in this province, near the sources of the Rhine,
are the Nemetes[2985], the Triboci[2986], and the Vangiones[2987];
nearer again[2988], the Ubii[2989], the Colony[2990] of Agrippina, the
Cugerni[2991], the Batavi[2992], and the peoples whom we have already
mentioned as dwelling on the islands of the Rhine.
CHAP. 32. (18.)—GALLIA LUGDUNENSIS.
That part of Gaul which is known as Lugdunensis[2993] contains
the Lexovii[2994], the Vellocasses[2995], the Galeti[2996], the
Veneti[2997], the Abrincatui[2998], the Ossismi[2999], and the
celebrated river Ligeris[3000], as also a most remarkable peninsula,
which extends into the ocean at the extremity[3001] of the territory
of the Ossismi, the circumference of which is 625[3002] miles, and its
breadth at the neck 125[3003]. Beyond this are the Nannetes[3004],
and in the interior are the Ædui[3005], a federal people, the
Carnuti[3006], a federal people, the Boii[3007], the Senones[3008],
the Aulerci, both those surnamed Eburovices[3009] and those called
Cenomanni[3010], the Meldi[3011], a free people, the Parisii[3012],
the Tricasses[3013], the Andecavi[3014], the Viducasses[3015],
the Bodiocasses[3016], the Venelli[3017], the Cariosvelites[3018],
the Diablinti[3019], the Rhedones[3020], the Turones[3021], the
Atesui[3022], and the Secusiani[3023], a free people, in whose
territory is the colony of Lugdunum[3024].
CHAP. 33. (19.)—GALLIA AQUITANICA.
In Aquitanica are the Ambilatri[3025], the Anagnutes[3026], the
Pictones[3027], the Santoni[3028], a free people, the Bituriges[3029],
surnamed Vivisci, the Aquitani[3030], from whom the province derives
its name, the Sediboviates[3031], the Convenæ[3032], who together form
one town, the Begerri[3033], the Tarbelli Quatuorsignani[3034], the
Cocosates Sexsignani[3035], the Venami[3036], the Onobrisates[3037],
the Belendi[3038], and then the Pyrenæan range. Below these
are the Monesi[3039], the Oscidates[3040] a mountain race, the
Sibyllates[3041], the Camponi[3042], the Bercorcates[3043],
the Pindedunni[3044], the Lassunni[3045], the Vellates[3046],
the Tornates[3047], the Consoranni[3048], the Ausci[3049], the
Elusates[3050], the Sottiates[3051], the Oscidates Campestres[3052],
the Succasses[3053], the Tarusates[3054], the Basabocates[3055], the
Vassei[3056], the Sennates, and the Cambolectri Agessinates[3057].
Joining up to the Pictones are the Bituriges[3058], a free people,
who are also known as the Cubi, and then the Lemovices[3059], the
Arverni[3060], a free people, and the Gabales[3061].
Again, adjoining the province of Narbonensis are the Ruteni[3062],
the Cadurci[3063], the Nitiobriges[3064], and the Petrocori[3065],
separated by the river Tarnis from the Tolosani. The seas around the
coast are the Northern Ocean, flowing up to the mouth of the Rhine,
the Britannic Ocean between the Rhine and the Sequana, and, between it
and the Pyrenees, the Gallic Ocean. There are many islands belonging
to the Veneti, which bear the name of “Veneticæ[3066],” as also in the
Aquitanic Gulf, that of Uliarus[3067].
CHAP. 34. (20.)—NEARER SPAIN, ITS COAST ALONG THE GALLIC OCEAN.
At the Promontory of the Pyrenees Spain begins, more narrow, not only
than Gaul, but even than itself[3068] in its other parts, as we have
previously mentioned[3069], seeing to what an immense extent it is
here hemmed in by the ocean on the one side, and by the Iberian Sea
on the other. A chain of the Pyrenees, extending from due east to
south-west[3070], divides Spain into two parts, the smaller one to
the north, the larger to the south. The first coast that presents
itself is that of the Nearer Spain, otherwise called Tarraconensis.
On leaving the Pyrenees and proceeding along the coast, we meet with
the forest ranges of the Vascones[3071], Olarso[3072], the towns of
the Varduli[3073], the Morosgi[3074], Menosca[3075], Vesperies[3076],
and the Port of Amanus[3077], where now stands the colony of
Flaviobriga. We then come to the district of the nine states of the
Cantabri[3078], the river Sauga[3079], and the Port of Victoria of the
Juliobrigenses[3080], from which place the sources of the Iberus[3081]
are distant forty miles. We next come to the Port of Blendium[3082],
the Orgenomesci[3083], a people of the Cantabri, Vereasueca[3084]
their port, the country of the Astures[3085], the town of
Noega[3086], and on a peninsula[3087], the Pæsici. Next to these we
have, belonging to the jurisdiction of Lucus[3088], after passing
the river Navilubio[3089], the Cibarci[3090], the Egovarri, surnamed
Namarini, the Iadoni, the Arrotrebæ[3091], the Celtic Promontory,
the rivers Florius[3092] and Nelo, the Celtici[3093], surnamed Neri,
and above them the Tamarici[3094], in whose peninsula[3095] are the
three altars called Sestianæ, and dedicated[3096] to Augustus; the
Capori[3097], the town of Noela[3098], the Celtici surnamed Præsamarci,
and the Cileni[3099]: of the islands, those worthy of mention are
Corticata[3100] and Aunios. After passing the Cileni, belonging to
the jurisdiction of the Bracari[3101], we have the Heleni[3102], the
Gravii[3103], and the fortress of Tyde, all of them deriving their
origin from the Greeks. Also, the islands called Cicæ[3104], the
famous city of Abobrica[3105], the river Minius[3106], four miles wide
at its mouth, the Leuni, the Seurbi[3107], and Augusta[3108], a town
of the Bracari, above whom lies Gallæcia. We then come to the river
Limia[3109], and the river Durius[3110], one of the largest in Spain,
and which rises in the district of the Pelendones[3111], passes near
Numantia, and through the Arevaci and the Vaccæi, dividing the Vettones
from Asturia, the Gallæci from Lusitania, and separating the Turduli
from the Bracari. The whole of the region here mentioned from the
Pyrenees is full of mines of gold, silver, iron, and lead, both black
and white[3112].
CHAP. 35. (21.)—LUSITANIA.
After passing the Durius, Lusitania[3113] begins. We here have
the ancient Turduli[3114], the Pæsuri, the river Vaga[3115], the
town of Talabrica, the town and river[3116] of Æminium, the towns
of Conimbrica[3117], Collippo[3118], and Eburobritium[3119]. A
promontory[3120] then advances into the sea in shape of a large
horn; by some it has been called Artabrum[3121], by others the Great
Promontory, while many call it the Promontory of Olisipo, from the
city[3122] near it. This spot forms a dividing line in the land, the
sea, and the heavens. Here ends one side[3123] of Spain; and, when we
have doubled the promontory, the front of Spain begins. (22.) On one
side of it lie the North and the Gallic Ocean, on the other the West
and the Atlantic. The length of this promontory has been estimated
by some persons at sixty miles, by others at ninety. A considerable
number of writers estimate the distance from this spot to the Pyrenees
at 1250 miles; and, committing a manifest error, place here the nation
of the Artabri, a nation that never[3124] was here. For, making a
slight change in the name, they have placed at this spot the Arrotrebæ,
whom we have previously spoken of as dwelling in front of the Celtic
Promontory.
Mistakes have also been made as to the more celebrated rivers. From
the Minius, which we have previously mentioned, according to Varro,
the river Æminius[3125] is distant 200 miles, which others[3126]
suppose to be situate elsewhere, and called Limæa. By the ancients it
was called the “River of Oblivion,” and it has been made the subject
of many fabulous stories. At a distance of 200 miles from the Durius
is the Tagus, the Munda[3127] lying between them. The Tagus is famous
for its golden sands[3128]. At a distance of 160 miles from it is the
Sacred Promontory[3129], projecting from nearly the very middle of the
front[3130] of Spain. From this spot to the middle of the Pyrenees,
Varro says, is a distance of 1400 miles; while to the Anas, by which we
have mentioned[3131] Lusitania as being separated from Bætica, is 126
miles, it being 102 more to Gades.
The peoples are the Celtici, the Turduli, and, about the Tagus, the
Vettones[3132]. From the river Anas to the Sacred Promontory[3133] are
the Lusitani. The cities worthy of mention on the coast, beginning
from the Tagus, are that of Olisipo[3134], famous for its mares, which
conceive[3135] from the west wind; Salacia[3136], which is surnamed
the Imperial City; Merobrica[3137]; and then the Sacred Promontory,
with the other known by the name of Cuneus[3138], and the towns of
Ossonoba[3139], Balsa[3140], and Myrtili[3141].
The whole of this province is divided into three jurisdictions, those
of Emerita, Pax, and Scalabis. It contains in all forty-six peoples,
among whom there are five colonies, one municipal town of Roman
citizens, three with the ancient Latin rights, and thirty-six that are
tributaries. The colonies are those of Augusta Emerita[3142], situate
on the river Anas, Metallinum[3143], Pax[3144], and Norba[3145],
surnamed Cæsariana. To this last place of jurisdiction the people
of Castra Servilia[3146] and Castra Cæcilia[3147] resort. The fifth
jurisdiction is that of Scalabis[3148], which also has the name of
Præsidium Julium[3149]. Olisipo, surnamed Felicitas Julia[3150],
is a municipal city, whose inhabitants enjoy the rights of Roman
citizens. The towns in the enjoyment of the ancient Latin rights are
Ebora[3151], which also has the name of Liberalitas Julia[3152],
and Myrtili and Salacia, which we have previously mentioned. Those
among the tributaries whom it may not be amiss to mention, in
addition to those already[3153] alluded to among the names of those
in Bætica, are the Augustobrigenses[3154], the Ammienses[3155], the
Aranditani, the Arabricenses, the Balsenses, the Cæsarobricenses, the
Caperenses[3156], the Caurenses[3157], the Colarni, the Cibilitani,
the Concordienses[3158], the Elbocorii, the Interannienses, the
Lancienses[3159], the Mirobrigenses, surnamed[3160] Celtici, the
Medubrigenses[3161], surnamed Plumbarii, the Ocelenses[3162] or
Lancienses, the Turduli, also called Barduli, and the Tapori. Agrippa
states, that Lusitania, with Asturia and Gallæcia, is 540 miles in
length, and 536 in breadth. The provinces of Spain, measured from the
two extreme[3163] promontories of the Pyrenees, along the sea-line of
the entire coast, are thought to be 3922 miles in circumference; while
some writers make them to be but 2600.
CHAP. 36.—THE ISLANDS IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.
Opposite to Celtiberia are a number of islands, by the Greeks called
Cassiterides[3164], in consequence of their abounding in tin: and,
facing the Promontory[3165] of the Arrotrebæ, are the six Islands of
the Gods, which some persons have called the Fortunate Islands[3166].
At the very commencement of Bætica, and twenty-five miles from
the mouth of the Straits of Gades, is the island of Gadis, twelve
miles long and three broad, as Polybius states in his writings. At
its nearest part, it is less than 700 feet[3167] distant from the
mainland, while in the remaining portion it is distant more than
seven miles. Its circuit is fifteen miles, and it has on it a city
which enjoys the rights of Roman citizens[3168], and whose people
are called the Augustani of the city of Julia Gaditana. On the side
which looks towards Spain, at about 100 paces distance, is another
long island, three miles wide, on which the original city of Gades
stood. By Ephorus and Philistides it is called Erythia, by Timæus and
Silenus Aphrodisias[3169], and by the natives the Isle of Juno. Timæus
says, that the larger island used to be called Cotinusa[3170], from
its olives; the Romans call it Tartessos[3171]; the Carthaginians
Gadir[3172], that word in the Punic language signifying a hedge. It
was called Erythia because the Tyrians, the original ancestors of the
Carthaginians, were said to have come from the Erythræan, or Red Sea.
In this island Geryon is by some thought to have dwelt, whose herds
were carried off by Hercules. Other persons again think, that his
island is another one, opposite to Lusitania, and that it was there
formerly called by that name[3173].
CHAP. 37. (23.)—THE GENERAL MEASUREMENT OF EUROPE.
Having thus made the circuit of Europe, we must now give the complete
measurement of it, in order that those who wish to be acquainted
with this subject may not feel themselves at a loss. Artemidorus and
Isidorus have given its length, from the Tanais to Gades, as 8214
miles. Polybius in his writings has stated the breadth of Europe, in
a line from Italy to the ocean, to be 1150 miles. But, even in his
day, its magnitude was but little known. The distance of Italy, as
we have previously[3174] stated, as for as the Alps, is 1120 miles,
from which, through Lugdunum to the British port of the Morini[3175],
the direction which Polybius seems to follow, is 1168 miles. But the
better ascertained, though greater length, is that taken from the Alps
through the Camp of the Legions[3176] in Germany, in a north-westerly
direction, to the mouth of the Rhine, being 1543 miles. We shall now
have to speak of Africa and Asia.
* * * * *
SUMMARY.—Towns and nations mentioned * * * *. Noted rivers * * * *.
Famous mountains * * * *. Islands * * * *. People or towns no longer in
existence * * * *. Remarkable events, narratives, and observations * *
* *.
* * * * *
ROMAN AUTHORS QUOTED.—Cato the Censor[3177], M. Varro[3178], M.
Agrippa[3179], the late Emperor Augustus[3180], Varro Atacinus[3181],
Cornelius Nepos[3182], Hyginus[3183], L. Vetus[3184], Mela
Pomponius[3185], Licinius Mucianus[3186], Fabricius Tuscus[3187],
Ateius Capito[3188], Ateius the Philologist[3189].
FOREIGN AUTHORS QUOTED.—Polybius[3190], Hecatæus[3191],
Hellanicus[3192], Damastes[3193], Eudoxus[3194], Dicæarchus[3195],
Timosthenes[3196], Eratosthenes[3197], Ephorus[3198], Crates the
Grammarian[3199], Serapion[3200] of Antioch, Callimachus[3201],
Artemidorus[3202], Apollodorus[3203], Agathocles[3204], Eumachus[3205],
Timæus the Sicilian[3206], Myrsilus[3207], Alexander Polyhistor[3208],
Thucydides[3209], Dosiades[3210], Anaximander[3211], Philistides
Mallotes[3212], Dionysius[3213], Aristides[3214], Callidemus[3215],
Menæchmus[3216], Aglaosthenes[3217], Anticlides[3218],
Heraclides[3219], Philemon[3220], Xenophon[3221], Pytheas[3222],
Isidorus[3223], Philonides[3224], Xenagoras[3225], Astynomus[3226],
Staphylus[3227], Aristocritus[3228], Metrodorus[3229], Cleobulus[3230],
Posidonius[3231].