[Headnote: BATHS OF GUITERA.]
8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft.,
then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a
charming country, to S. Maria-Siché, 2 m. from Apa, inn where
coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with
the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the
unfortunate Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the
chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been
destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for
Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at Campo,
pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head
of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo.
1¼ m. farther is Frasseto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there
is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the
valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace, 2713
ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an
affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the Sposata,
3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely
situation. 14½ m. from Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot
sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right
bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from
Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly
situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern.
The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for
about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt.
Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to
[Headnote: ZICAVO.--MT. INCUDINE.]
Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated,
overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio.
From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6
hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not
difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to
assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S.
Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best
formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623
ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech
trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks.
Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with
many shepherds' huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen.
After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and
across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying
thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is
ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here,
and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the
guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher
de l'Incudine. "The view is probably the most beautiful in
Corsica--a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink
abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich
glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an
edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of
the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run
across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio
stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are
spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles
and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the
Two Sicilies. [Headnote: NELSON.] The one beside it, Maddalena, is
linked with even greater memories--Nelson and Napoleon. Under its
lee, in a bay which Nelson christened 'Agincourt Sound,' the British
fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the
French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver
candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson's
gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in
attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire.
For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views,
and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as
Greece, to find such another."--D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See
map on fly-leaf.
miles from AJACCIO
miles to SARTÈNE
{21}{32}
GROSSETO, 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio.
A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex
trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.
{30}{23}
BICCHISANO, 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine.
The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and Cassalabriva,
pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col
Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where
Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.
[Headnote: OLMETO.]
{39}{14}
OLMETO, pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view.
In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the
castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of
Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips
steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard,
varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the
shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the
heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the
island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most
elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds
with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a
background.
The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci,
near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at
[Headnote: PROPRIANO.]
{44½}{8½}
PROPRIANO, pop. 1000. H. France.
Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the
Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and
Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic
monuments called the Stazione del' Diavolo.