From the port, 11 m. W., is the chapel S. Antonio, 850 ft. The road
passes the penitentiary of S. Antonio, 331 ft. North from it, under
the peak of La Barrage, 1476 feet, is the Castelluccio penitentiary.
Westward by the Hospice Eugenie and the Batterie de Maestrello, a
pleasant road leads along the coast to the orange gardens of Barbicaja,
passing by the Chapelle de Greco and the cemetery. About 4 m. farther is
the Tête Parata, 199 ft., opposite the Iles Sanguinaires.
A beautiful road, the continuation of the Cours Grandval, ascends 2½ m.
to the Fontaine du Salario, 760 ft., commanding enchanting views. This
road traverses the Place Casone, 144 ft., occupying the site of the
Casone, the country house of the Bonapartes, destroyed in 1878. Close by
is the "grotte Napoleon," composed of blocks of granite, to which, it is
said, the youthful Napoleon used to retire.
About 6 m. N. from Ajaccio is the village of Alata, 1312 ft. Within an
easy walking distance north from Ajaccio is the pleasant estate of
Carrosaccia, on the canal which supplies the town with water from the
Gravona. 5½ m. N. from Ajaccio are the sulphurous springs of
Caldaniccia.
[Headnote: FAMILY TOMBS.]
In the neighbourhood of Ajaccio and of the other Corsican towns and
villages are numerous family sepulchral chapels enclosed within walls. A
more pleasing characteristic feature, probably inherited from the Moors,
are the numerous fountains in the villages and by the road side, whence
flow streams of cold, sparkling water of exquisite purity.
[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
_Climate._--For convalescent invalids, Ajaccio forms a delightful change
from the Riviera, as it is so rural, and has such pleasant air and good
water. The hotels are comfortable and their charges moderate. As, too,
the road metal used around Ajaccio is that disintegrating granite which
so readily solidifies by the combined action of the rain and traffic,
there is very little dust in the neighbourhood (p. 9).
The principal winds are the Libeccio or S.W. wind, the Sirocco or S.E.
wind, and the Mistral or N.W. wind.
On the 12th, 13th and 14th of May the fair of St. Pancras is held, which
affords a good opportunity for purchasing Corsican horses. They are from
10 to 14 hands high and of great endurance. It is wonderful to behold
the energy these small slim creatures display in dragging heavy
lumbering diligences up long, steep, winding roads.
But more wonderful still is it to see the peasant women and girls as
young as thirteen carrying on their heads up and down the mountain paths
big pails, or the more elegant two-handled brass jars of classic form,
containing about two gallons of water, without ever stumbling on any of
the many stones. The pails are made of copper lined with tin, weighing
when full of water from 55 lbs. to 65 lbs.
Among the curiosities of Ajaccio are gourds made into bottles, of
various shapes and sizes and mounted with silver, and the pretty baskets
made of straw by the girls of Alata.
[Map: Environs of Ajaccio]
Ajaccio to Bastia.
Ajaccio to Bocognano by rail, thence by diligence to Corté; Corté to
Bastia by rail 47 m., or 44 by road. The road from Ajaccio ascends
the valley of the Gravona to its source at the Col Vizzavona. On the
N. side of the Col it follows the course of the Vecchio. The most
picturesque part of this route is between Vizzavona and Vivario.
miles from AJACCIO
miles to BASTIA
{ }{95}
AJACCIO. Start from the station in the Cours Napoleon. The road, after
traversing the fertile plain of Campo dell Oro, crosses the Col
Sudricchio, 804 ft., and then the bridge of Ucciani, 948 ft., built in
the reign of Louis XIV., 17½ m. from Ajaccio and 2 m. from the village
of Ucciani. Use general map, and map, p. 27.
[Headnote: BOCOGNANO.]
{25}{70}
BOCOGNANO, pop. 2000, and 2120 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Univers.
Picturesquely situated in a plantation of chestnut trees, surrounded by
high mountain peaks. Near Bocognano commences the Vizzavona tunnel, 4375
yards through the mountain. Diligence now to Corté. The road, having
crossed the Sellola bridge, 2843 ft., winds its way up by the Col de
Pinzalone, 3370 ft., and the Maison and Pont de Lavatoggio 3615 ft. to
the top of the ridge. See map, p. 27.
[Headnote: VIZZAVONA.]
[Headnote: PINES.]
{31}{64}
LE FORT DE VIZZAVONA, on the summit of the Pass, 3813 ft. above the sea,
with the Gendarmerie and a few houses of refuge. A few miles northwards
is Monte d'Oro, 7845 ft., and southwards Monte Renoso, 7733 ft. The
diligence, in its descent to Vivario, traverses the forest of Vizzavona,
consisting mainly of beeches and larches, frequently 150 ft. high. Of
this tree there are two varieties, the _Pinus pinaster_ or cluster pine,
the _Pin maritime_ of the French, which grows best on deep loose soils
and flourishes even on the drifting sands of the sea shore. They supply
large quantities of resin. Their wood being soft, coarse and perishable,
is usually converted into charcoal and lamp black. The other is the
_Pinus laricio_, which thrives on the high lands of Corsica, Spain,
south of France, Greece and Cyprus. Their growth is rapid, the trunk
straight and from 100 to 150 ft. high, the branches are in regular
whorls, forming in large trees a pyramidal head, and the leaves are
slender, from 4 to 7 inches long, and of a dark green tint. The timber
is good and durable, though less strong than that of the _Pinus
silvestris_. Between the 51st and 53d kilomètre stones are passed the
"Maison de Refuge d'Alzarella," and the "Maison de refuge Omellina,"
2832 ft.
After crossing the Col de Campo di Lupo, 2684 ft., 35 m. from Ajaccio,
the road descends into the ravine of the Vecchio, above which is
[Headnote: VIVARIO.]
{38}{57}
VIVARIO, pop. 1500, and 2152 ft. _Inn:_ H. Voyageurs a three-storied
house. Junction with road to Zicavo, 37 m. S. (pp. 27,29). Although
Vivario be a poor village, yet it has a terrace and fountain ornamented
with a statue of Diana. The breeding of pigs fed in the adjoining
chestnut forest, and the manufacture of hams, sausages and bacon, are
the most important industries of the inhabitants.
From Vivario a forest road extends 27 m. S.E. to the hamlet of
Vadina, by Muracciole 2022 ft., 1½ m., the Col Erbajo 3018 ft.,
7 m.; Pietroso 10½ m., Saparelli 12½ m., and Quinzena 18 m. From
Vadina a good carriage road leads 6 m. to the Baths of Pietrapola,
which are supplied by most copious springs of hot, saline,
sulphurous water. The season is from May 1 to June 30; or
September 1 to November 30. The situation is beautiful and the
bathing-establishment and lodging accommodation comfortable, and
much frequented.
The road from Vivario to Serraggio passes along the top of the rocky
gorge of the foaming Vecchio. The best view of the gorge is from the
Pont du Vecchio 40 m. from Ajaccio and 280 ft. above the bed. From
Serraggio, 1890 ft., Mt d'Oro is well seen. See map, p. 20.
The road now passes Lugo, 1980 ft.; S. Pietro, 2496 ft.; the Col. S.
Nicolo, 2473 ft.; and Casanova, 2136 ft., to
[Headnote: CORTÉ.]
miles from AJACCIO
miles to BASTIA
{51}{44}
CORTÉ, 1329 ft., pop. 5500. _Hotels:_ *Paoli, 8 to 10 frs., Europe. Is
situated at the junction of the Tavignano with the Restonico, in the
midst of majestic mountains of the most varied form. The citadel or
château, built in the early part of the 15th century, stands on
precipitous and jagged rocks rising from the Tavignano, commanding from
the top a magnificent view of the wild surrounding scenery. In the
"Place" is a statue of Paoli, the Corsican patriot, born at Stretta in
1726, and to the right of the statue the post and telegraph office. In
the immediate neighbourhood stands a large house, a Franciscan convent,
in which the Corsican parliament assembled in Paoli's time. Near Corté,
by the left side of the Restonico, is a quarry of marble of a bluish
tint with reddish white veins. To take the walk up the gorge of the
Restonico, descend by first road left up the main street from the hotels
and cross only the Tavignano bridge. The mountain appearing to close the
valley is Mte. Rotondo. See map, p. 20.
Coach to Aleria, 31 m. S.E. (p. 33), by a beautiful road.
Just outside Corté the rail traverses the Torretta tunnel, 1531 yards.
[Headnote: MTE. ROTONDO.]
From Corté the ascent of Monte Rotondo is most easily effected. It
is 8613 feet above the sea-level, or 7284 feet above Corté. Cabins
inhabited by the herdsmen are scattered over the declivities of the
mountain up to within 3000 feet of the top. Time 2 days. Guide with
mule 25 frs. Ascend by the road up the picturesque valley of the
Restonico to the Timozzo bridge, 3590 feet, and 2½ hours from Corté.
From this the path extends 1½ hour up the wild ravine of the Timozzo
to the shepherds' huts; whence the rest must be done on foot. Now
the hard work commences. Block lies above block, towering upwards
and upwards in such endless masses of monotonous gray that the heart
quails with the sight and the foot trembles to go farther. After
about 2 hours' scramble over these colossal steps the traveller
reaches the fontaine de Triggione, about 2200 feet below the summit
and in full view of it, an incomplete circle of steep jagged cliffs.
About 330 feet higher is a little dark lake, the Lago di Monte
Rotondo, encircled by gentle green slopes, where the night is
generally spent. Snow-field extend from the lake to the summit,
which, although apparently near, requires 2 full hours' climbing to
reach, often on hands and feet, over sharp fragments of rock, or up
steep beds of slippery frozen snow. The extreme peak is a rugged
obelisk of gray rock ending in a pinnacle. A way leads down by the
S. side in 6 hours, to Guagno by lake Bettianella, 3419 ft., then W.
by the road over the Col de Manganella, 5874 ft. See map, p. 20.
[Headnote: GRANITE.]
"The view from Monte Rotondo did not impress me. The central
uplands, which form a large portion of it, are bare and arid, while
the great ridge of Monte Cinto stretches across the northern horizon
like a long screen. Comparatively little of the coast is seen in any
direction, but most towards the west. It was curious to notice how
completely the tops of the mountains between us and the Cinto ridge
were flattened down, while the crest on which we stood was a set of
bristling teeth. There are two kinds of granite in Corsica, one
friable and unable to resist the action of the air, the other hard
and defiant of the elements. Of this latter consist the Cinto range,
Monte Rotondo and the rocks in the forest of Bavella."--D. W.
Freshfield, Alpine Club.
The road now from Corté to Bastia traverses the Quilico Col, 1932 ft.,
passes Soveria, 1843 ft., and Caporalino, 8 m. from Corté, 36 from
Bastia and 1 m. from Omessa. About 1½ m. farther it crosses the Golo by
the Francardo bridge, 856 ft., where it meets the great Forest Road from
Porto, 50 m. S.W. by Evisa and the Col de Vergio, p. 18, and map, p. 20.
[Headnote: PONTE LECCIA.]
miles from AJACCIO
miles to BASTIA
{66}{29}
PONTE ALLA LECCIA, 624 ft. Village, and coach and railway station.
_Inn:_ Cyrnoz. Diligence to Calvi by the beautiful northern continuation
of the road from Prunete by Cervione and Piedicroce, p. 20. "Courrier"
daily to Piedicroce, 18 m. S.E. by Morosaglia, see p. 34. During the
summer heats Ponte alla Leccia is considered insalubrious.
[Headnote: PONTE NOVO.]
{71}{24}
PONTE NOVO. The site of the disastrous battle fought on the 9th of May
1769, when the Corsicans lost their independence and became subject to
France. The two small houses on the right bank, a little farther down
the river, were Paoli's headquarters. One month afterwards he, with some
other Corsican refugees, sailed from Porto Vecchio in a British vessel
for England (p. 39).
[Headnote: BORGO.]
{85}{10}
BORGO, pop. 820. On the Mariana hills, rising from Lake Biguglia, one of
the many lagoons on the eastern coast, separated from the sea by narrow
sandbanks. Along this coast extend the only large plains in Corsica.
Unfortunately, in summer they are subject to malaria, which, however, a
judicious system of drainage is gradually abating. They are cultivated
by Italian labourers who visit the island periodically. Between Borgo
and Bastia is Bevinco, with valuable marble quarries. Southward from
Borgo on the coast is Mariana, the site of the colony founded by Marius
(p. 34).
[Headnote: BASTIA.]
{95}
BASTIA, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ *France; Europe; Lingenieur; Croix de
Malte over the post and telegraph office, all in the Boul. du Palais, 8
to 10 frs. Theatre; Public Library with 65,000 volumes. Steamers twice a
week to Marseilles, time 18 hours, touching once a week at Nice, 12
hours distant. Fare direct to Marseilles, including food, 28 frs. To
Nice, without food, 30 frs. Rubattino's steamers leave three times a
week for Leghorn; time 6 hours. These same steamers proceed afterwards
to Genoa. Railway to Corté. Rail also to Aleria, whence diligence to
Bonifacio, Sartène and Ajaccio.
Diligences daily from Bastia to Cap Corse, 7 hours, 6 or 5 frs.; and
also to Calvi, 12 hours, 13 or 10 frs.
[Headnote: BRANDO.]
Carriages to visit the stalactite cave at Brando, 10 frs. Admission 2
frs. each. It is 7 m. from Bastia, above Erbalunga, on the face of a
mountain; and was discovered in 1841 by M. Ferdinandi. A steep path
leads up to it. Keeper near cave. See p. 12.
_Bastia_, the most important city of Corsica, is built on ground rising
gently from the sea. Facing the sea and the principal harbour is the
Place St. Nicholas, adorned with a marble statue of Napoleon I., by
Bartolini, looking towards the island of Elba. In this "Place", the
promenade of the town, are the offices of the Messageries Maritimes and
of the Compagnie Insulaire. Fraissinet's office is at the old harbour;
whence also their steamers sail.
From the Place St. Nicholas ascends the principal street, the Boulevard
du Palais, to the Palais de Justice. In this Boulevard are the post and
telegraph offices (whence most of the diligences start), the hotels,
cafés and the best shops, and from it ramify the streets of the town. At
the top of the B. du Palais commences, right hand, the Boul. Cardo, one
of the best roads to take for views of the town and neighbourhood. A
flight of steps leads from the quay up to the cathedral, a handsome
building in the Italian style. The markets are held in the "Place"
fronting the cathedral. Most of the houses are built in large blocks
from 5 to 6 stories high and from 6 to 9 windows broad, each story
forming a separate residence.
Bastia owes its name to the bastion built here by the Genoese in the
14th century. From the hills behind Bastia the view embraces the islands
of Gorgona, Capraja, Elba, and Monte-Christo, seen best from the top of
the Serra di Pigno, 3640 feet. Refer to map on fly-leaf.
[Headnote: STEAMERS.]
The most beautiful part of Corsica, and the most easily visited, is the
eastern side, including the Castagniccia or the chestnut country, and
the whole region up in the mountains, which border this coast. The
wealthiest, most industrious and most enterprising of the people are
those who inhabit that long narrow tongue of land called Cap Corse.
Although boats are constantly sailing from Marseilles and Leghorn to
Bastia, invalids visiting Corsica with the intention of wintering in
Ajaccio should, if possible, sail from Marseilles or Nice direct to
Ajaccio; but on leaving the island, when winter is over, Bastia is
perhaps the best port to sail from, as it affords an excellent
opportunity for visiting the most beautiful parts of Corsica and the
most important towns in Italy. On arriving at Leghorn (see Black's
_South France_) it is best to proceed at once to the railway station,
and start for Pisa, only 30 minutes distant. There are numerous trains.
At the station and in the kiosques in the "Piazzas" of Leghorn, is sold
an excellent little book with all the railway Time-tables, _L'Indicatore
Ufficiale_, price 50 c.
[Headnote: CAP CORSE.--WINE.]