CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF LONDON; BOTH IN REGARD TO ITS
EXTENT, BUILDINGS, GOVERNMENT, TRADE, ETC.
LONDON, the capital of the kingdom of England, taken in its largest
extent, comprehends the cities of London and Westminster, with their
respective suburbs, and the borough of Southwark, with the buildings
contiguous thereto on the south side of the river, both on the east and
west sides of the bridge.
The length thereof, if we measure in a direct line from Hyde Park gate,
on the west side of Grosvenor Square, to the farthest buildings that are
contiguous in Limehouse, that is, from west to east, is very near five
miles in a direct line; but if we take in the turnings and windings of
the streets, it cannot be less than six miles. The breadth in many
places from north to south is about two miles and a half, but in others
not above a mile and a half; the circumference of the whole being about
sixteen miles.
The situation next the river is hilly, and in some places very steep; but
the streets are for the most part upon a level, and the principal of them
nowhere to be paralleled for their length, breadth, beauty, and
regularity of the buildings, any more than the spacious and magnificent
squares with which this city abounds.
As to the dimensions of the city within the walls, I find that the late
wall on the land side from the Tower in the east, to the mouth of Fleet
Ditch in the west, was two miles wanting ten poles; and the line along
the Thames, where there has been no walls for many hundred years, if
ever, contains from the Tower in the east, to the mouth of the same ditch
in the west, a mile and forty poles; which added to the circuit of the
wall, on the land side, makes in the whole three miles thirty poles; and
as it is of an irregular figure, narrow at each end, and the broadest
part not half the length of it, the content of the ground within the
walls, upon the most accurate survey, does not contain more than three
hundred and eighty acres; which is not a third part of the contents of
our extensive city of Lisbon: but then this must be remembered, Lisbon
contains a great quantity of arable and waste ground within its walls,
whereas London is one continued pile of buildings. The city gates are at
this day eight, besides posterns, viz.: 1, Aldgate; 2, Bishopsgate; 3,
Moorgate; 4, Cripplegate; 5, Aldersgate; 6, Newgate; 7, Ludgate; and, 8,
The Bridgegate.
1. Aldgate, or Ealdgate, in the east, is of great antiquity, even as old
as the days of King Edgar, who mentions it in a charter to the knights of
Knighton-Guild. Upon the top of it, to the eastward, is placed a golden
sphere; and on the upper battlements, the figures of two soldiers as
sentinels: beneath, in a large square, King James I. is represented
standing in gilt armour, at whose feet are a lion and unicorn, both
couchant, the first the supporter of England, and the other for Scotland.
On the west side of the gate is the figure of Fortune, finely gilded and
carved, with a prosperous sail over her head, standing on a globe,
overlooking the city. Beneath it is the King’s arms, with the usual
motto, _Dieu et mon droit_, and under it, _Vivat rex_. A little lower,
on one side, is the figure of a woman, being the emblem of peace, with a
dove in one hand, and a gilded wreath or garland in the other; and on the
other side is the figure of charity, with a child at her breast, and
another in her hand; and over the arch of the gate is this inscription,
viz., _Senatus populusque Londinensis fecit_, 1609, and under it,
Humphrey Weld, Mayor, in whose mayoralty it was finished.
2. Bishopsgate, which stands north-west of Aldgate, is supposed to have
been built by some bishop about the year 1200. It was afterwards several
times repaired by the merchants of the Hanse Towns, on account of the
confirmation of their privileges in this city. The figures of the two
bishops on the north side are pretty much defaced, as are the city arms
engraven on the south side of it.
3. Aldersgate, the ancient north gate of the city, stands to the
westward of Bishopsgate. On the north, or outside of it, is the figure
of King James I. on horseback, who entered the city at this gate when he
came from Scotland, on his accession to the throne of England. Over the
head of this figure are the arms of England, Scotland, and Ireland; and
on one side the image of the prophet Jeremy, with this text engraved,
“Then shall enter into the gates of this city, kings and princes sitting
on the throne of David, riding on chariots and on horses, they and their
princes, the men of Judah, and the inhabitants of Jerusalem.” And on the
other side, the figure of the prophet Samuel, with the following passage,
“And Samuel said unto all Israel, Behold, I have hearkened unto your
voice in all that you have said unto me, and have made a king over you.”
On the south, or inside of the gate, is the effigy of King James I.
sitting on his throne in his robes.
4. Newgate, so called from its being built later than the other
principal gates, is situated on the north-west corner of the city, said
to be erected in the reign of Henry I. or King Stephen, when the way
through Ludgate was interrupted by enlarging the cathedral of St. Paul’s
and the churchyard about it. This gate hath been the county jail for
Middlesex at least five hundred years. The west, or outside of the gate
is adorned with three ranges of pilasters and their entablements of the
Tuscan order. Over the lowest is a circular pediment, and above it the
King’s arms. The inter columns are four niches, and as many figures in
them, well carved, and large as the life. The east, or inside of the
gate, is adorned with a range of pilasters with entablements as the
other, and in three niches are the figures of justice, mercy, and truth,
with this inscription, viz., “This part of Newgate was begun to be
repaired in the mayoralty of Sir James Campel, Knight, anno 1630, and
finished in the mayoralty of Sir Robert Ducie, Bart., anno 1631; and
being damnified by the fire in 1666, it was repaired in the mayoralty of
Sir George Waterman, anno 1672.”
5. Ludgate, the ancient western gate of the city, stands between Newgate
and the Thames, built by King Lud about threescore years before the birth
of our Saviour. It was repaired in the reign of King John, anno 1215,
and afterwards in the year 1260, when it was adorned with the figures of
King Lud and his two sons, Androgeus and Theomantius; but at the
Reformation, in the reign of Edward VI., some zealous people struck off
all their heads, looking upon images of all kinds to be Popish and
idolatrous. In the reign of Queen Mary, new heads were placed on the
bodies of these kings, and so remained till the 28th of Queen Elizabeth,
anno 1586, when the gate, being very ruinous, was pulled down, and
beautifully rebuilt: the east or inside whereof was adorned with four
pilasters and entablature of the Doric order, and in the intercolumns
were placed the figures of King Lud and his two sons (who are supposed to
have succeeded him) in their British habits again; and above them the
queen’s arms, viz., those of France and England quarterly, the supporters
a lion and a dragon. It was afterwards repaired and beautified, anno
1699, Sir Francis Child lord mayor. The west or outside of the gate is
adorned with two pilasters and entablature of the Ionic order; also two
columns and a pediment adorning a niche, wherein is placed a good statue
of Queen Elizabeth in her robes and the regalia; and over it the queen’s
arms between the city supporters, placed at some distance. This gate was
made a prison for debtors who were free of the city, anno 1 Richard II.,
1378, Nicholas Brember then mayor, and confirmed such by the mayor and
common council, anno 1382, John Northampton mayor.
The Tower of London is situated at the south-east end of the city, on the
river Thames, and consists in reality of a great number of towers or
forts, built at several times, which still retain their several names,
though at present most of them, together with a little town and church,
are enclosed within one wall and ditch, and compose but one entire
fortress.
It was the vulgar opinion that the Tower was built by Julius Cæsar; but,
as I have before shown, history informs us that Cæsar made no stay in
England, that he erected no town or fortress, unless that with which he
enclosed his ships on the coast of Kent, nor left a single garrison or
soldier in the island on his departure.
This Tower, as now encompassed, stands upon twelve acres of ground, and
something more, being of an irregular form, but approaching near to that
of an oblong, one of the longest sides lying next the river, from whence
it rises gradually towards the north, by a pretty deep ascent, to the
armoury, which stands upon the highest ground in the Tower, overlooking
the White Tower built by William the Conqueror, and the remains of the
castle below it on the Thames side, said to be built by William Rufus.
As to the strength of the place, the works being all antique, would not
be able to hold out four-and-twenty hours against an army prepared for a
siege: the ditch indeed is of a great depth, and upwards of a hundred
feet broad, into which the water of the Thames may be introduced at
pleasure; but I question whether the walls on the inside would bear the
firing of their own guns: certain it is, two or three battering-pieces
would soon lay them even with the ground, though, after all, the ditch
alone is sufficient to defend it against a sudden assault. There are
several small towers upon the walls; those of the largest dimensions, and
which appear the most formidable, are the Divelin Tower, on the
north-west; and the Martin Tower on the north-east; and St. Thomas’s
Tower on the river by Traitor’s Bridge; which I take to be part of the
castle said to be built by William Rufus. There is also a large tower on
the outside the ditch, called the Lions’ Tower, on the south-west corner,
near which is the principal gate and bridge by which coaches and
carriages enter the Tower; and there are two posterns with bridges over
the ditch to the wharf on the Thames side, one whereof is called
Traitor’s Bridge, under which state prisoners used to enter the Tower.
The principal places and buildings within the Tower, are (1) The
parochial church of St. Peter (for the Tower is a parish of itself, in
which are fifty houses and upwards, inhabited by the governor,
deputy-governor, warders, and other officers belonging to the fortress).
(2) To the eastward of the church stands a noble pile of building,
usually called the armoury, begun by King James II. and finished by King
William III., being three hundred and ninety feet in length, and sixty in
breadth: the stately door-case on the south side is adorned with four
columns, entablature and triangular pediment, of the Doric order. Under
the pediment are the king’s arms, with enrichments of trophy-work, very
ornamental. It consists of two lofty rooms, reaching the whole length of
the building: in the lower room is a complete train of artillery,
consisting of brass cannon and mortars fit to attend an army of a
hundred-thousand men; but none of the cannon I observe there were above
four-and-twenty pounders; the large battering-pieces, which carry balls
of thirty-two and forty-eight pounds weight, I perceive, are in the
king’s store-houses at Deptford, Woolwich, Chatham, and Portsmouth. In
the armoury also we find a great many of the little cohorn mortars, so
called from the Dutch engineer Cohorn, who invented them for firing a
great number of hand-grenades from them at once; with other extraordinary
pieces cast at home, or taken from the enemy.
In the room over the artillery is the armoury of small arms, of equal
dimensions with that underneath, in which are placed, in admirable order,
muskets and other small arms for fourscore thousand men, most of them of
the newest make, having the best locks, barrels, and stocks, that can be
contrived for service; neither the locks or barrels indeed are wrought,
but I look upon them to be the more durable and serviceable, and much
easier cleaned. There are abundance of hands always employed in keeping
them bright, and they are so artfully laid up, that any one piece may be
taken down without moving another. Besides these, which with pilasters
of pikes furnish all the middle of the room from top to bottom, leaving
only a walk through the middle, and another on each side, the north and
south walls of the armoury are each of them adorned with eight pilasters
of pikes and pistols of the Corinthian order, whose intercolumns are
chequer-work of carbines and pistols; waves of the sea in cutlasses,
swords, and bayonets; half moons, semicircles, and a target of bayonets;
the form of a battery in swords and pistols; suns, with circles of
pistols; a pair of gates in halberts and pistols; the Witch of Endor, as
it is called, within three ellipses of pistols; the backbone of a whale
in carbines; a fiery serpent, Jupiter and the Hydra, in bayonets, &c.
But nothing looks more beautiful and magnificent than the four lofty
wreathed columns formed with pistols in the middle of the room, which
seem to support it. They show us also some other arms, which are only
remarkable for the use they have been put to; as the two swords of state,
carried before the Pretender when he invaded Scotland in the year 1715;
and the arms taken from the Spaniards who landed in Scotland in the year
1719, &c.
The small arms were placed in this beautiful order by one Mr. Harris,
originally a blacksmith, who was properly the forger of his own fortune,
having raised himself by his merit: he had a place or pension granted him
by the government for this piece of service in particular, which he
richly deserved, no nation in Europe being able to show a magazine of
small arms so good in their kind, and so ingeniously disposed. In the
place where the armoury now stands was formerly a bowling-green, a
garden, and some buildings, which were demolished to make room for the
grand arsenal I have been describing.
In the horse-armoury the most remarkable things are some of the English
kings on horseback in complete armour, among which the chief are Edward
III., Henrys V. and VII., King Charles I. and II., and King William, and
a suit of silver armour, said to belong to John of Gaunt, seven feet and
a half high. Here also they show us the armour of the Lord Kingsale,
with the sword he took from the French general, which gained him the
privilege of being covered in the king’s presence, which his posterity
enjoy to this day.
The office of ordnance is in the Tower, with the several apartments of
the officers that belong to it, who have the direction of all the arms,
ammunition, artillery, magazines, and stores of war in the kingdom.
The White Tower is a lofty, square stone building, with a turret at each
angle, standing on the declivity of the hill, a little below the armoury,
and disengaged from the other buildings, where some thousand barrels of
powder were formerly kept; but great part of the public magazine of
powder is now distributed in the several yards and storehouses belonging
to the government, as at Woolwich, Chatham, Portsmouth, Plymouth, &c., to
prevent accidents, I presume; for should such a prodigious quantity of
powder take fire, it must be of fatal consequence to the city, as well as
the Tower. The main guard of the Tower, with the lodgings of the
officers, are on the east side of this building.
In the chapel of the White Tower, usually called Cæsar’s Chapel, and in a
large room adjoining on the east side thereof, sixty-four feet long, and
thirty-one broad, are kept many ancient records, such as privy-seals in
several reigns, bills, answers, and depositions in chancery, in the
reigns of Queen Elizabeth, King James I., and King Charles I., writs of
_distringas_, _supersedeas_, _de excommunicato capiendo_, and other writs
relating to the courts of law; but the records of the greatest importance
are lodged in the Tower called Wakefield Tower, consisting of statute
rolls from the 6th of Edward I. to the 8th of Edward III.
Parliament rolls beginning anno 5 of Edward II. and ending with the reign
of Edward IV.
Patent rolls beginning anno 3 of John, and ending with the reign of
Edward IV. In these are contained grants of offices, hands, tenements,
temporalities, &c., passing under the great seal.
Charter rolls, from the 1st of King John to the end of Edward IV. in
which are enrolments of grants, and confirmations of liberties and
privileges to cities and towns corporate, and to private persons, as
markets, fairs, free warren, common of pasture, waifs, strays, felons’
goods, &c.
The foundations of abbeys and priories, of colleges and schools, together
with lands and privileges granted to them.
The patents of creation of noblemen.
Close rolls, from the 6th of King John, to the end of Edward IV., in
which are writs of various kinds, but more especially on the back of the
roll are entered the writs of summons to parliament, both to the lords
and commons, and of the bishops and inferior clergy to convocations.
There are also proclamations, and enrolments of deeds between party and
party.
French rolls, beginning anno 1 of Edward II. and ending with Edward IV.,
in which are leagues and treaties with the kings of France, and other
matters relating to that kingdom.
Scotch rolls, containing transactions with that kingdom.
Rome, touching the affairs of that see.
Vascon rolls, relating to Gascoign.
There are also other rolls and records of different natures.
In this tower are also kept the inquisitions _post mortem_, from the
first year of King Henry III., to the third year of Richard III.
The inquisitions _ad quod damnum_, from the first of Edward II. to the
end of Henry V.
Writs of summons, and returns to Parliament, from the reign of Edward I.
to the 17th of Edward IV.
Popes’ bulls, and original letters from foreign princes.
All which were put into order, and secured in excellent wainscot presses,
by order of the house of peers, in the year 1719 and 1720. Attendance is
given at this office, and searches may be made from seven o’clock in the
morning to eleven, and from one to five in the afternoon, unless in
December, January, and February, when the office is open only from eight
to eleven in the morning, and from one to four, except holidays.
The next office I shall mention is the Mint, where, at present, all the
money in the kingdom is coined. This makes a considerable street in the
Tower, wherein are apartments for the officers belonging to it. The
principal officers are:—l. The warden, who receives the gold and silver
bullion, and pays the full value for it, the charge being defrayed by a
small duty on wines. 2. The master and worker, who takes the bullion
from the warden, causes it to be melted, delivers it to the moneyers, and
when it is minted receives it from them again. 3. The comptroller, who
sees that the money be made according to the just assize, overlooks the
officers and controls them. 4. The assay-master, who sees that the money
be according to the standard of fineness. 5. The auditor, who takes the
accounts, and makes them up. 6. The surveyor-general, who takes care
that the fineness be not altered in the melting. And, 7, the weigher and
teller.
The Jewel-office, where the regalia are reposited, stands near the east
end of the Armoury. A list is usually given to those who come daily to
see these curiosities in the Jewel-house, a copy whereof follows, viz.:
_A list of his Majesty’s regalia_, _besides plate_, _and other rich
things_, _at the Jewel-house in the Tower of London_.
1. The imperial crown, which all the kings of England have been
crowned with, ever since Edward the Confessor’s time.
2. The orb, or globe, held in the king’s left hand at the coronation;
on the top of which is a jewel near an inch and half in height.
3. The royal sceptre with the cross, which has another jewel of great
value under it.