planks. The impression it left on the eye was exactly that of one
of the booths in a fair, where wild beasts or other curiosities are
exhibited. The timber work of the walls and the roof was quite open. A
green curtain divided off the front room, which was not covered with
deals, but the natural floor was left just as in a tent. There were
some chairs and a table; but no other article of domestic furniture.
The space was lighted from above by the openings which had been
accidentally left in the roofing. We stood talking together for some
time, while I contemplated the green curtain and the roof within, which
was visible over it, when all of a sudden from the other side of the
curtain two lovely girls' heads, black-eyed, and black-haired, peeped
over full of curiosity, but vanished again as soon as they saw they
were perceived. However, upon being asked for by the consul, after the
lapse of just so much time as was necessary to adorn themselves, they
came forward, and with their well dressed and neat little bodies crept
before the green tapestry. From their questions we clearly perceived
that they looked upon us as fabulous beings from another world, in
which most amiable delusion our answers must have gone far to confirm
them. The consul gave a merry description of our singular appearance:
the conversation was so very agreeable, that we found it hard to part
with them. It was not until we had got out of the door that it occurred
to us that we had never seen the inner room, and had forgotten all
about the construction of the house, being entirely taken up with its
fair inhabitants.
* * * * *
_Messina, Saturday, May_ 12, 1787.
Among other things we were told by the consul, that although it was not
indispensably necessary, still it would be as well to pay our respects
to the governor, a strange old man, who, by his humours and prejudices,
might as readily injure as benefit us: that besides it always told
in his (the consul's) favour if he was the means of introducing
distinguished personages to the governor; and besides, no stranger
arriving here can tell whether some time or other he may not somehow or
other require the assistance of this personage. So to please my friend,
I went with him.
As we entered the ante-chamber, we heard in the inner room a most
horrible hubbub; a footman, with a very punch-like expression of
countenance, whispered in the consul's ear:--"An ill day--a dangerous
moment!" However we entered, and found the governor, a very old man,
sitting at a table near the window, with his back turned towards
us. Large piles of old discoloured letters were lying before him,
from which, with the greatest sedateness, he went on cutting out the
unwritten portion of the paper--thus giving pretty strong proofs of
his love of economy. During this peaceful occupation, however, he was
fearfully rating and cursing away at a respectable looking personage,
who, to judge from his costume, was probably connected with Malta,
and who, with great coolness and precision of manner, was defending
himself, for which, however, he was afforded but little opportunity.
Though thus rated and scolded, he yet with great self-possession
endeavoured by appealing to his passport and to his well-known
connections in Naples, to remove a suspicion which the governor, as it
would appear, had formed against him as coming backwards and forwards
without any apparent business. All this, however, was of no use: the
governor went on cutting his old letters, and carefully separating the
clean paper, and scolding all the while.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Messina.]
Besides ourselves there were about twelve other persons in the room,
spectators of the bull-baiting, standing hovering in a very wide
circle, and apparently envying us our proximity to the door, as a
desirable position should the passionate old man seize his crutch, and
strike away right and left. During this scene our good consul's face
had lengthened considerably; for my part, my courage was kept up by the
grimaces of a footman, who, though just outside the door, was close to
me, and who, as often as I turned round, made the drollest gestures
possible to appease my alarm, by indicating that all this did not
matter much.
And indeed the awful affair was quickly brought to an end. The old man
suddenly closed it with observing that there was nothing to prevent
him clapping the Maltese in prison, and letting him cool his heels in
a cell--however, he would pass it over this time; he might stay in
Messina the few days he had spoken of--but after that he must pack
off, and never show his face there again. Very coolly, and without
the slightest change of countenance, the object of suspicion took his
leave, gracefully saluting the assembly, and ourselves in particular,
as he passed through the crowd to get to the door. As the governor
turned round fiercely, intending to add yet another menace, he caught
sight of us, and immediately recovering himself, nodded to the consul,
upon which he stepped forward to introduce me.
The governor was a person of very great age; his head bent forwards on
his chest, while from beneath his grey shaggy brows, black sunken eyes
cast forth stealthy glances. Now, however, he was quite a different
personage, from what we had seen a few moments before. He begged me to
be seated; and still uninterruptedly pursuing his occupation, asked me
many questions, which I duly answered, and concluded by inviting me to
dine with him as long as I should remain here. The consul, satisfied as
well as myself, nay, even more satisfied, since he knew better than I
did the danger we had escaped, made haste to descend the stairs; and,
for my part, I had no desire ever again to approach the lion's den.
* * * * *
_Messina, Sunday, May_ 13, 1787.
Waking this morning, we found ourselves in a much pleasanter apartment,
and with the sun shining brightly, but still in poor afflicted Messina.
Singularly unpleasant is the view of the so-called Palazzata, a
crescent-shaped row of real palaces, which for nearly a quarter of a
league encloses and marks out the roadstead. All were built of stone,
and four stories high; of several the whole front, up to the cornice
of the roof, is still standing, while others have been thrown down
as low as the first, or second, or third story. So that this once
splendid line of buildings exhibits at present with its many chasms and
perforations, a strangely revolting appearance: for the blue heaven may
be seen through almost every window. The interior apartments in all are
utterly destined and fallen.
One cause of this singular phenomenon is the fact that the splendid
architectural edifices erected by the rich, tempted their less wealthy
neighbours to vie with them, in appearance at least, and to hide behind
a new front of cut stone the old houses, which had been built of larger
and smaller rubble-stones, kneaded together and consolidated with
plenty of mortar. This joining, not much to be trusted at any time,
was quickly loosened and dissolved by the terrible earthquake. The
whole fell together. Among the many singular instances of wonderful
preservation which occurred in this calamity, they tell the following.
The owner of one of these houses had, exactly at the awful moment,
entered the recess of a window, while the whole house fell together
behind him; and there, suspended aloft, but safe, he calmly awaited
the moment of his liberation from his airy prison. That this style of
building, which was adopted in consequence of having no quarries in the
neighbourhood, was the principal cause why the ruin of the city was so
total as it was, is proved by the fact that the houses which were of a
more solid masonry are still standing. The Jesuits' College and Church,
which are solidly built of cut stone, are still standing uninjured,
with their original substantial fabric unimpaired. But whatever may be
the cause, the appearance of Messina is most oppressive, and reminds
one of the times when the Sicani and Siculi abandoned this restless and
treacherous district, to occupy the western coast of the island.
After passing the morning in viewing these ruins, we entered our inn to
take a frugal meal, We were still sitting at table, feeling ourselves
quite comfortable, when the consul's servant rushed breathless into
the room, declaring that the governor had been looking for me all
over the city--he had invited me to dinner, and yet I was absent. The
consul earnestly intreated me to go immediately, whether I had or not
dined--whether I had allowed the hour to pass through forgetfulness or
design. I now felt, for the first time, how childish and silly it was
to allow my joy at my first escape to banish all further recollection
of the Cyclop's invitation. The servant did not allow me to loiter; his
representations were most urgent and most direct to the point; if I did
not go the consul would be in danger of suffering all that this fiery
despot might chose to inflict upon him and his countrymen.
[Sidenote: Messina--The Palazzata.]
Whilst I was arranging my hair and dress, I took courage, and with
a lighter heart followed, invoking Ulysses as my patron saint, and
begging him to intercede in my behalf with Pallas Athène.
Arrived at the lion's den, I was conducted by a fine footman into
a large dining-room, where about forty people were sitting at an
oval table, without, however, a word being spoken. The place on the
governor's right was unoccupied, and to it was I accordingly conducted.
Having saluted the host and his guests with a low bow, I took my seat
by his side, excused my delay by the vast size of the city, and by
the mistakes which the unusual way of reckoning the time had so often
caused me to make. With a fiery look, he replied, that if a person
visited foreign countries, he ought to make a point to learn its
customs, and to guide his movements accordingly. To this I answered
that such was invariably my endeavour, only I had found that, in a
strange locality, and amidst totally new circumstances, one invariably
fell at first, even with the very best intentions, into errors
which might appear unpardonable, but for the kindness which readily
accepted in excuse for them the plea of the fatigue of travelling, the
distraction of new objects, the necessity of providing for one's bodily
comforts, and, indeed, of preparing for one's further travels.
Hereupon he asked me how long I thought of remaining. I answered that
I should like, if it were possible, to stay here for a considerable
period, in order to have the opportunity of attesting, by my close
attention to his orders and commands, my gratitude for the favour he
had shewn me. After a pause he inquired what I had seen in Messina? I
detailed to him my morning's occupation, with some remarks on what I
had seen, adding that what most had struck me was the cleanliness and
good order in the streets of this devastated city. And, in fact, it was
highly admirable to observe how all the streets had been cleared by
throwing the rubbish among the fallen fortifications, and by piling up
the stones against the houses, by which means the middle of the streets
had been made perfectly free and open for trade and traffic. And
this gave me an opportunity to pay a well-deserved compliment to his
excellency, by observing that all the Messinese thankfully acknowledged
that they owed this convenience entirely to his care and forethought.
"They acknowledge it, do they," he growled: "well, every one at first
complained loudly enough of the hardship of being compelled to take
his share of the necessary labour." I made some general remarks upon
the wise intentions and lofty designs of government being only slowly
understood and appreciated and on similar topics. He asked if I had
seen the Church of the Jesuits, and when I said, No, he rejoined that
he would cause it to be shown to me in all its splendour.
During this conversation, which was interrupted with a few pauses, the
rest of the company, I observed, maintained a deep silence, scarcely
moving except so far as was absolutely necessary in order to place
the food in their mouths. And so, too, when the table was removed,
and coffee was served, they stood up round the walls like so many wax
dolls. I went up to the chaplain, who was to shew me the church, and
began to thank him in advance for the trouble. However, he moved off,
after humbly assuring me that the command of his excellency was in his
eyes all sufficient. Upon this I turned to a young stranger who stood
near, who, however, Frenchman as he was, did not seem to be at all at
his ease; for he, too, seemed to be struck dumb and petrified, like the
rest of the company, among whom I recognized many faces who had been
anything but willing witnesses of yesterday's scene.
[Sidenote: Messina--The Governor.]
The governor moved to a distance; and after a little while, the
chaplain observed to me that it was time to be going. I followed him;
the rest of the company had silently one by one disappeared. He led
me to the gate of the Jesuit's church, which rises in the air with
all the splendour and really imposing effect of the architecture of
these fathers. A porter came immediately towards us, and invited us
to enter; but the priest held me back, observing that we must wait
for the governor. The latter presently arrived in his carriage, and,
stopping in the piazza, not far from the church, nodded to us to
approach, whereupon all three advanced towards him. He gave the porter
to understand that it was his command that he should not only shew me
the church and all its parts, but should also narrate to me in full the
histories of the several altars and chapels; and, moreover, that he
should also open to me all the sacristies, and shew me their remarkable
contents. I was a person to whom he was to show all honour, and who
must have every cause on his return home to speak well and honourably
of Messina. "Fail not," he then said, turning to me with as much of a
smile as his features were capable of,--"Fail not as long as you are
here to be at my dinner-table in good time--you shall always find a
hearty welcome." I had scarcely time to make him a most respectful
reply before the carriage moved on.
From this moment the chaplain became more cheerful, and we entered
the church. The Castellan (for so we may well name him) of this fairy
palace, so little suited to the worship of God, set to work to fulfil
the duty so sharply enjoined on him, when Kniep and the consul rushed
into the empty sanctuary, and gave vent to passionate expressions of
their joy at seeing me again and at liberty, who, they had believed,
would by this time have been in safe custody. They had sat in agonies
until the roguish footman (whom probably the consul had well-feed) came
and related with a hundred grimaces the issue of the affair; upon which
a cheerful joy took possession of them, and they at once set out to
seek me, as their informant had made known to them the governor's kind
intentions with regard to the church, and thereby gave them a hope of
finding me.
We now stood before the high altar, listening to the enumeration of
the ancient rarities with which it was inlaid: pillars of lapis lazuli
fluted, as it were, with bronzed and with gilded rods; pilasters and
panellings after the Florentine fashion; gorgeous Sicilian agates in
abundance, with bronze and gilding perpetually recurring and combining
the whole together.
And now commenced a wondrous counterpointed _fugue_, Kniep and the
consul dilating on the perplexities of the late incident, and the
showman enumerating the costly articles of the well-preserved
splendour, broke in alternately, both fully possessed with their
subject. This afforded a twofold gratification; I became sensible how
lucky was my escape, and at the same time had the pleasure of seeing
the productions of the Sicilian mountains, on which, in their native
state, I had already bestowed attention, here worked up and employed
for architectural purposes.
My accurate acquaintance with the several elements of which this
splendour was composed, helped me to discover that what was called
lapis lazuli in these columns was probably nothing but calcara, though
calcara of a more beautiful colour than I ever remember to have
seen, and withal most incomparably pieced together. But even such as
they are, these pillars are still most highly to be prized; for it
is evident that an immense quantity of this material must have been
collected before so many pieces of such beautiful and similar tints
could be selected; and in the next place, considerable pains and labour
must have been expended in cutting, splitting, and polishing the stone.
But what task was ever too great for the industry of these fathers?
During my inspection of these rarities, the consul never ceased
enlightening me on the danger with which I had been menaced. The
governor, he said, not at all pleased that, on my very first
introduction to him, I should have been a spectator of his violence
towards the quasi Maltese, had resolved within himself to pay me
especial attention, and with this view he had settled in his own mind
a regular plan, which, however, had received a considerable check from
my absence at the very moment in which it was first to be carried
into effect. After waiting a long while, the despot at last sat down
to dinner, without, however, been able to conceal his vexation and
annoyance, so that the company were in dread lest they should witness a
scene either on my arrival or on our rising from table.
Every now and then the sacristan managed to put in a word, opened the
secret chambers, which are built in beautiful proportion, and elegantly
not to say splendidly ornamented. In them were to be seen all the
moveable furniture and costly utensils of the church still remaining,
and these corresponded in shape and decoration with all the rest. Of
the precious metals I observed nothing, and just as little of genuine
works of art, whether ancient or modern.
Our mixed Italian-German _fugue_ (for the good father and the sacristan
chaunted in the former tongue, while Kniep and the consul responded
in the latter) came to an end just as we were joined by an officer
whom I remembered to have seen at the dinner-table. He belonged to
the governor's suite. His appearance certainly calculated to excite
anxiety, and not the less so as he offered to conduct me to the
harbour, where he would take me to certain parts which generally were
inaccessible to strangers. My friends looked at one another; however,
I did not suffer myself to be deterred by their suspicions from going
alone with him. After some talk about indifferent matters, I began
to address him more familiarly, and confessed that during the dinner
I had observed many of the silent party making friendly signs to me,
and giving me to understand that I was not among mere strangers and
men of the world, but among friends, and, indeed, brothers: and that
I had, therefore, nothing to fear. I felt it a duty to thank him, and
to request him to be the bearer of similar expressions of gratitude to
the rest of the company. To all this he replied, that they had sought
to calm any apprehensions I might have felt; because, well acquainted
as they were with the character of their host, they were convinced that
there was really no cause for alarm; for explosions like that with the
Maltese were but very rare, and when they did happen, the worthy old
man always blamed himself afterwards, and would for a long time keep a
watch over his temper, and go on for a while in the calm and assured
performance of his duty, until at last some unexpected rencontre would
surprise and carry him away by a fresh outbreak of passion.
My valiant friend further added, that nothing was more desired by him
and his companions than to bind themselves to me by a still closer tie,
and therefore he begged that I would have the great kindness of letting
them know where it might be done this evening, most conveniently to
myself. I courteously declined the proffered honour, and begged him to
humour a whim of mine, which made me wish to be looked upon during my
travels merely as a man; if as such I could excite the confidence and
sympathy of others, it would be most agreeable to me, and what I most
wished,--but that many reasons forbade me to enter into other relations
or connexions.
Convince him I could not,--for I did not venture to tell him what was
really my motive. However, it struck me as remarkable, that under so
despotic a government, these kind-hearted persons should have formed
so excellent and so innocent an union for mutual protection, and for
the benefit of strangers. I did not conceal from him the fact, that I
was well aware of the ties subsisting between them and other German
travellers, and expatiated at length on the praiseworthy objects they
had in view; and so only caused him to feel still more surprise at my
obstinacy. He tried every possible inducement to draw me out of my
incognito--however, he did not succeed, partly because, having just
escaped one danger, I was not inclined for any object whatever, to run
into another; and partly because I was well aware that the views of
these worthy islanders were so very different from my own, that any
closer intimacy with them could lead neither to pleasure nor comfort.
On the other hand, I willingly spent a few hours with our well-wishing
and active consul, who now enlightened us as to the scene with the
Maltese. The latter was not really a mere adventurer,--still he was a
restless person, who was never happy in one place. The governor, who
was of a great family, and highly honored for his sincerity and habits
of business, and was also greatly esteemed for his former important
services, was, nevertheless, notorious for his illimitable self-will,
his unbridled passion, and unbending obstinacy. Suspicious, both as an
old man and a tyrant,--more anxious lest he should have, than convinced
that he really had, enemies at court, he looked upon as spies, and
hated all persons who, like this Maltese, were continually coming
and going, without any ostensible business. This time the red cloak
had crossed him, when, after a considerable period of quiet, it was
necessary for him to give vent to his passion, in order to relieve his
mind.
* * * * *
_Written partly at Messina, and partly at Sea, Monday, May_ 4, 1787.
Both Kniep and myself awoke with the same feelings; both felt annoyed
that we had allowed ourselves, under the first impression of disgust
which the desolate appearance of Messina had excited, to form the hasty
determination of leaving it with the French merchantman. The happy
issue of my adventure with the governor, the acquaintance which I had
formed with certain worthy individuals, and which it only remained for
me to render more intimate, and a visit which I had paid to my banker,
whose country-house was situated in a most delightful spot: all this
afforded a prospect of our being able to spend most agreeably a still
longer time in Messina. Kniep, quite taken up with two pretty little
children, wished for nothing more than that the adverse wind, which
in any other case would be disagreeable enough, might still last for
some time. In the meanwhile, however, our position was disagreeable
enough,--all must be packed up, and we ourselves be ready to start at a
moment's warning.
[Sidenote: Messina--Character of the Governor.]
And so, at last, about mid-day the summons came; and we hastened
on board, and found among the crowd collected on the shore our
worthy consul, from whom we took our leave with many thanks. The
sallow footman, also, pressed forward to receive his douceur--he was
accordingly duly rewarded, and charged to mention to his master the
fact of our departure, and to excuse our absence from dinner. "He who
sails away is at once excused," exclaimed he; and then turning round
with a very singular spring, quickly disappeared.