some most delightful hours. It is the most wonderful place in the
world. Regularly laid out by art, it still looks a fairy spot; planted
but a short time ago, it yet transports you into ancient times. Green
edgings surround beds of the choicest exotics; citron-espaliers arch
over low-arboured walks; high walls of the oleander, decked with
thousands of its red carnation-like blossoms, dazzle the eye. Trees
wholly strange and unknown to me, as yet without leaf, and probably,
therefore, natives of a still warmer climate, spread out their strange
looking branches. A raised seat at the end of the level space gives you
a survey of these curiously mixed rarities, and leads the eye at last
to great basins in which gold and silver fish swim about with their
pretty movements; now hiding themselves beneath moss-covered reeds;
now darting in troops to catch the bit of bread which has tempted them
from their hiding place. All the plants exhibit tints of green which
I am not used to; yellower and bluer than are found with us. What
however lent to every object the rarest of charms was a strong halo
which hung around everything alike, and produced the following singular
effect: objects which were only distant a few steps from others, were
distinguished from them by a decided tint of light blue, so that at
last the distinctive colours of the most remote were almost merged in
it, or at least assumed to the eye a decidedly strong blue tint.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.]
The very singular effect which such a halo imparts to distinct
objects, vessels, and headlands, is remarkable enough to an artistic
eye; it assists it accurately to distinguish, and, indeed, to measure
distances. It makes, too, a walk on the heights extremely charming.
One sees Nature no more; nothing but pictures; just as if a painter of
exquisite taste had arranged them in a gallery.
But these wonderful gardens have made a deep and lasting impression on
my mind. The black waves on the northern horizon, as they broke on the
irregular points of the bay--and even the smell of the sea-all seemed
to recall to my imagination, as well as my memory, the happy island
of the Phæacians. I hastened to purchase a _Homer_, and began to read
this book with the highest delight, making an impromptu translation
of it for the benefit of Kniep, who had well deserved by his diligent
exertions this day some agreeable refreshment over a glass of wine.
* * * * *
_Palermo, April_ 8, 1787. (_Easter Day._)
The morning rejoicings in the blissful Resurrection of the Lord
commenced with break of day. Crackers, wild-fires, rockets, serpents,
&c., were let off by wholesale in front of the churches, as the
worshippers crowded in at the open doors. The chiming of bells, the
pealing of organs, the chanting of processions, and of the choirs of
priests who came to meet them, were enough to stun the ears of all who
had not been used to such noisy worship.
The early mass was scarcely ended, when two well-dressed couriers of
the Viceroy visited our hotel, with the double object of offering
to all strangers his Highness's congratulations on the festival,
and to exact a douceur in return. As I was specially honoured with
an invitation to dinner, my gift was, of course, expected to be
considerable.
After spending the morning in visiting the different churches, I
proceeded to the Viceroy's palace, which is situated at the upper end
of the city. As I arrived rather early, I found the grand saloon still
empty; there was only a little lively man, who came up to me, and whom
I soon discovered to be a Maltese.
When he had learnt that I was a German, he asked if I could give him
any account of Erfurt, where he had spent a very pleasant time on a
short visit.
As he asked me about the family of the Däckerödes, and about the
Coadjutor von Dalberg, I was able to give some account of them, at
which he seemed much delighted, and inquired after other people of
Thuringia. With considerable interest he then inquired about Weimar.
"And how," he asked, "is the person, who, full of youth and vivacity
when I was there, was the life of society? I have forgotten his name,
but he is the author of 'Werther.'"
After a little pause, as if for the sake of tasking my memory, I
answered, "I am the person whom you are inquiring about." With the most
visible signs of astonishment, he sprung back, exclaiming, "There must
have been a great change then!" "O yes," I rejoined, "between Palermo
and Weimar I have gone through many a change."
At this moment the Viceroy and suite entered the apartment. His
carriage evinced that graceful freedom which became so distinguished
a personage. He could not refrain from laughing at the Maltese, as he
went on expressing his astonishment to see me here. At table I sat by
the side of the Viceroy, who inquired into the objects of my journey,
and assured me that he would give orders that everything in. Palermo
should be open to my inspection, and that every possible facility
should be given me during my tour through Sicily.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.]
_Palermo, Monday, April_ 9, 1787.
This whole day has been taken up with the stupidities of the Prince
Pallagonia, whose follies are thoroughly different from what one
would form an idea of either by reading or hearing of them. For, with
the slightest love of truth, he who wishes to furnish an account of
the absurd, gets into a dilemma; he is anxious to give an idea of
it, and so makes it something, whereas, in reality, it is a nothing
which seeks to pass for something. And here I must premise another
general reflection, viz., that neither the most tasteless, nor the
most excellent production comes entirely and immediately from a single
individual or a single age, but that with a little attention any one
may trace its pedigree and descent.
The fountain already described in Palermo belongs to the forefathers
of the Pallagonian follies, only that the latter, in their own soil
and domain, develope themselves with the greatest freedom, and on the
largest scale.
When in these parts a country seat is built, it is usually placed in
the middle of a whole property, and therefore, in order to reach the
princely mansion you have to pass through cultivated fields, kitchen
gardens, and similar rural conveniences, for these southerns show far
more of economy than we northmen, who often waste a good strip of rich
land on a park, which, with its barren shrubs, can only charm the eye.
But here it is the fashion to build two walls, between which you pass
to the castle, without knowing in the least what is doing on your
right and left. This passage begins generally with a grand portico,
and sometimes with a vaulted hall, and ends with the mansion itself.
But, in order that the eye may not be entirely without relief between
these bye walls, they are generally arched over, and ornamented with
scrolls, and also with pedestals, on which, here and there, a vase is
placed. The flat surfaces are plastered, divided into compartments,
and painted. The court is formed by a circle of one-storied cabins, in
which work-people of all sorts reside, while the quadrangular castle
towers over all.
This is the sort of building which is here traditionally adopted, and
which probably was the old form, when the father of the present prince
rebuilt the castle, not in the best, but still in tolerable taste.
But the present possessor, without abandoning the general features of
this style, gave free course to his humour and passion for the most
ill-shapen and tasteless of erections. One would do him too much honour
by giving him credit for even one spark of taste.
We entered, therefore, the great hall, which stands at the beginning of
the property, and found ourselves in an octagonal loom, of a breadth
altogether disproportioned to its height. Four vast giants with modern
spatterdashes, which had just been _buttoned_ on, support the cornice,
on which, directly meeting the eye as you enter, is a representation of
the Holy Trinity.
The passage to the castle is broader than usual, the wall being
converted into one continuous high socle; from which basement the
strangest groups possible reach to the top, while in the spaces between
them several vases are placed. The ugliness of these unshapely figures,
(the bungling work of the most ordinary mason,) is increased by their
having been cut out of a very crumbly muscheltufa, although, perhaps,
a better material would have made the badness of the form still more
striking to the eye. I used the word "groups" a moment ago, but I
have employed a false term, and most inappropriate one for anything
here. For they are mere juxtapositions, determined by no thought, but
by mere arbitrary caprice. In each case three form the ornament of a
square pedestal, their bases being so arranged as to fill up the space
by their various postures. The principal groups have generally two
figures which occupy the chief face of the pedestal, and then two are
yet wanting to fill up the back part of the pedestal; one of a moderate
size generally represents a shepherd or shepherdess--a cavalier or a
lady--a dancing ape or a hound. Still there is a vacant spot on the
pedestal; this is generally held by a dwarf--as, indeed, in dull jokes,
this sort of gentry usually play a conspicuous part.
That we may not omit any of the elements of Prince Pallagonia's folly,
we give you the accompanying catalogue. Men: Beggars, male and female,
Spanish men and women, Moors, Turks, hunchbacks, cripples of all sorts,
strolling musicians, pulcinellos, soldiers in ancient uniforms, gods,
goddesses, gentlemen in old French costumes, soldiers with cartouche
boxes and gaiters, mythological personages (with most ridiculous
companions, Achilles and Charon, for instance, with Punch). Animals
(merely parts of them): Heads of horses on human bodies, misshapen
apes, lots of dragons and serpents, all sorts of feet under figures of
all kinds, double-headed monsters, and creatures with heads that do not
belong to them. Vases: All sorts of monsters and scrolls, which below
end in the hollows and bases of vases.
[Sidenote: Palermo--Castle of Count Pallagonia.]
Just let any one think of such figures furnished by wholesale, produced
without thought or sense, and arranged without choice or purpose--only
let him conceive to himself this socle, these pedestals and unshapely
objects in an endless series, and he will be able to sympathize with
the disagreeable feelings which must seize every one whose miserable
fate condemns him to run the gauntlet of such absurdities.
We now approach the castle, and are received into a semi-circular
fore-court. The chief wall before us, through which is the
entrance-door, is in the castle style. Here we find an Egyptian figure,
built into the wall, a fountain without water, a monument, vases stuck
around in no sort of order, statues designedly laid on their noses.
Next we came to the castle court, and found the usual round area,
enclosed with little cottages, distorted into small semicircles, in
order, forsooth, that there might be no want of variety.
The ground is, for the most part, overgrown with grass. Here, as in
the neighbourhood of a church in ruins, are marble urns with strange
scrolls and foliations, collected by his father; dwarfs and other
abortions of the later epoch, for which, as yet fitting places have
not been found; one even comes upon an arbour, propped up with ancient
vases, and stone scrolls of various shapes.
The absurdities produced by such want of judgment and taste, however,
are strikingly instanced by the fact, that the window sills in these
cottages are, without exception, oblique, and lean to one side or
the other, so as to offend and violate all sense of the level and
perpendicular, which are so indispensable in the human mind, and form
the foundation of all architectural propriety. And then, again, the
edges of all the roofs are embellished with hydras and little busts,
with choirs of monkeys playing music, and similar conceits. Dragons
alternate with deities: an Atlas, who sustains not the mundane sphere,
but an empty wine-barrel!
One hopes to escape from all this by entering the castle, which,
having been built by the father, presents relatively a more rational
appearance when viewed from the exterior. But in vain, for at no great
distance from the door, one stumbles upon the laurel-crowned head of
a Roman emperor on the body of a dwarf, who is sitting astride on a
dolphin.
Now, in the castle itself, of which the exterior gives hope of, at
least, a tolerable interior, the madness of the Prince begins again
to rave. Many of the seats have lost their legs, so that no one can
sit upon them; and if some appear to promise a resting-place, the
Chamberlain warns you against them, as having sharp prickles beneath
their satin-covered cushions. In all the corners are candelabras of
porcelain china, which, on a nearer view, you discover to be cemented
together out of different bowls, cups, saucers, &c., &c. Not a corner
but some whim peeps out of it. Even the unequalled prospect over the
promontory into the sea is spoiled by coloured glass, which, by its
false lights, gives either a cold or a fiery tint to the neighbouring
scenes. I must, also, mention a cabinet, which is inlaid with old
gold frames, cut in pieces. All the hundred-fold carvings, all the
endless varieties of ancient and modern, more or less dust-stained and
time-injured, gilding, closely huddled together, cover all the walls,
and give you the idea of a miniature lumber-room.
To describe the chapel alone, would require a volume. Here one finds
the solution of the whole folly, which could never have reached such
a pitch in any but a bigoted mind. How many monstrous creations of a
false and misled devotion are here to be found, I must leave you to
guess for yourself. However, I cannot refrain from mentioning the most
outrageous: a carved crucifix is fastened flat to the roof, painted
after nature, lackered, and gilded; into the navel of the figure,
attached to the cross, a hook is screwed, and from the latter hangs
a chain, which is fastened to the head of a man who, in a kneeling
and praying posture, is suspended in the air, and, like all the other
figures in the church, is painted and lackered. In all probability it
is intended to serve as a type of the owner's unceasing devotion.
Moreover, the house is not finished internally. A saloon, built
by the father, and intended to be decorated with rich and varied
ornaments, but not tricked out in a false and offensive taste, is still
incomplete: so that, it would seem, even the boundless madness of the
possessor is at a stand still.
Kniep's artistic feeling was almost driven to desperation in this
mad-house; and, for the first time in my life, I found him quite
impatient. He hurried me away, when I wished to take a note of, and
to perpetuate the memory of these monstrous absurdities, one by one.
Good-naturedly enough, he at last took a sketch of one of these
compositions, which did, at least, form a kind of group. It represents
a woman with a horse's head, sitting on a stool, and playing at cards,
with a cavalier, dressed, as to his lower extremities, in the old
fashion, while his gray head is ornamented with a large wig and a
crown. The statue reminded me of the arms of the house of Pallagonia,-a
satyr, holding up a mirror _before_ a woman with a horse's head, which,
even after all the strange follies of its present head, seems to me
highly singular.
* * * * *
_Palermo, Tuesday, April_ 10, 1787.
To-day we took a drive up the mountains to Monreale,--along a glorious
road, which was laid down by an abbot of this cloister, in the times
of its opulence and wealth: broad, of easy ascent, trees here and
there, springs, and dripping wells, decked out with ornaments and
scrolls,--somewhat Pallagonian in style--but still, in spite of all
that, refreshing to both man and beast.
The monastery of S. Martin, which lies on the height, is a respectable
building. One bachelor alone, as we see in the case of Prince
Pallagonia, has seldom produced any thing rational; but several
together, on the other hand, have effected the greatest works, such
as churches and monasteries. But perhaps these spiritual fraternities
produced so much, simply because, beyond most fathers of a family, they
could reckon with certainty on a numerous posterity.
The monks readily permitted us to view their collection of antiques and
natural objects. They contained many excellent specimens of both. Our
attention was particularly fixed by a medallion, with the _figure_ of
a young goddess, which must excite the rapture of every beholder. The
good monks would willingly have given us a copy, but there was nothing
within reach which would do to make a mould.
After they had exhibited to us all their treasures,--not without
entering on an unfavorable comparison of their present with their
former condition,--they led us into a small but pleasant saloon, from
the balcony of which one enjoyed a lovely prospect. Here covers were
laid for us alone, and we had a very excellent dinner to ourselves.
When the dessert was served, the abbot and the senior monks entered,
and took their seats. They remained nearly half an hour, during which
time we had to answer many questions. We took a most friendly farewell
of them; the younger brethren accompanied us once more to the rooms
where the collections were kept, and at last to our carriage.
We drove home with very different feelings from what we did yesterday.
To-day we had to regret a noble institution, which was falling with
time; while, on the other hand, a most tasteless undertaking had a
constant supply of wealth for its support.
The road to S. Martin ascends a hill of the earlier lime-stone
formation. The rock is quarried and broken, and burnt into lime,
which is very white. For burning the stone they make use of a long
coarse sort of grass, which is dried in bundles. Here too it is
that the calorex is produced. Even on the most precipitous heights
lies a red clay of alluvial origin, which serve the purposes of our
dam-earth,--the higher it lies the redder it is, and is but little
blackened by vegetation. I saw, at a distance, a ravine, where it was
red as cinnabar.
The monastery stands in the middle of the limestone hill, which is very
rich in springs.
* * * * *
_Palermo, Wednesday, April_ 11, 1787.
Having explored the two principal objects without the city, we betook
ourselves to the palace, where a busy courier showed us the rooms, and
their contents. To our great horror, the saloon in which the antiques
are generally placed was in the greatest disorder, in consequence of
the walls being under the process of decoration. The statues were
removed from their usual places, covered with cloth, and protected
by wooden frames; so that in spite of the good will of our guide, and
some trouble on the part of the work-people, we could only gain a very
imperfect idea of them. My attention was chiefly occupied with two
rams, in bronze, which, not-withstanding the unfavorable circumstances,
highly delighted our artistic taste. They are represented in a
recumbent posture, with one foot stretched out before them, with the
heads (in order to form a pair) turned on different sides. Powerful
forms, belonging to the mythological family, and well worthy to carry
Phrixus and Helle. The wool, not short and crisp, but long and flowing,
with a slight wave, and shape most true to nature, and extremely
elegant--they evidently belonged to the best period of Grecian art.
They are said to have stood originally in the harbour of Syracuse.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.]
The courier now took us out of the city to the catacombs, which,
laid out on a regular architectural plan, are anything but quarries
converted into burial places. In a rock of Tufa, of tolerable hardness,
the side of winch has been worked level and perpendicular, vaulted
openings have been cut, and in these again are hewn several tiers of
sarcophagi, one above the other--all of the natural material without
masonry of any kind. The upper tiers are smaller, and in the spaces
over the pillars are tombs for children.
* * * * *
_Palermo, Thursday, April_ 12.
To day we have been shown Prince Torremuzza's cabinet of medals.
I went there in a certain degree against my will. I am too little
versed in these matters, and a mere curiosity-mongering traveller is
thoroughly detested by all true connoisseurs and scholars. But as one
must in every case make a beginning, I made myself easy on this head,
and have derived both gratification and profit from my visit. What a
satisfaction, even cursorily, to glance at the fact that the old world
was thickly sown with cities; the very meanest of which has bequeathed
to us in its precious coins, if not a complete series, yet at least
some epochs, of its history of art. Out of these cabinets, there smiles
upon us an eternal spring of the blossoms and flowers of art--of a busy
life, ennobled with high tastes, and of much more besides. Out of these
form-endowed pieces of metal the glory of the Sicilian cities, now
obscured, still shines forth fresh before us.
Unfortunately, we in our youth had seen none but family coins, which
say nothing, and the coins of the Cæsars, which repeat to satiety the
same profile--portraits of rulers, who are to be regarded as any thing
but models of humanity. How sadly had our youth been confined to a
shapeless Palestine, and to a shape perplexing Rome! Sicily and Nova
Grecia give me hopes again of a fresh existence.
That on these subjects I should enter into general reflections, is a
proof that as yet I do not understand much about them: yet that, with
all the rest, will in degrees be improved.
* * * * *
_Palermo, Thursday, April_ 12, 1787.
Yesterday evening, a wish of mine was gratified, and that in a very
singular fashion. I was standing on the pavement of the principal
street, joking at the window with the shop-keeper, I formerly
mentioned, when suddenly, a courier, tall and well-dressed, came up to
me, and quickly poked a silver salver before me, on which were several
copper coins, and a few pieces of silver. As I could not make out what
it all meant, I shook my head, and shrugged my shoulders, the usual
token by which in this country you get rid of those whose address or
question you either cannot, or do not wish, to understand.
"What does all this mean?" I asked of my friend the shop-keeper, who,
with a very significant mien, and somewhat stealthily, pointed to a
lank and haggard gentleman, who, elegantly dressed, was walking with
great dignity and indifference, through the dung and dirt. Frizzled
and powdered, with his hat under his arm, in a silken vest, with his
sword by his side, and having a neat shoe ornamented with a jewelled
buckle--the old man walked on calmly and sorrowfully. All eyes were
directed towards him.
"It is the Prince Pallagonia," said the dealer, "who, from time to
time, goes through the city collecting money to ransom the slaves in
Barbary. It is true, he does not get much by his collection, but the
object is kept in memory; and so it often happens that those who, in
their life-time, were backward in giving, leave large legacies at their
death. The prince has for many years been at the head of this society,
and has done a great deal of good."
"Instead of wasting so much on the follies of his country house," I
cried, "he might have spent the same large sum on this object. Then no
prince in the world would have accomplished more."
To this the shopkeeper rejoined: "But is not that the way with us all?
We are ready enough to pay for our own follies. Our virtues for their
support must look to the purses of others."
* * * * *
_Palermo, April_ 13, 1787.
Count Borck has very diligently worked before us in the mineralogy of
Sicily, and whoever of the same mind visits the island after him, must
willingly acknowledge his obligations to him. I feel it a pleasure, no
less than a duty, to celebrate the memory of my predecessor. And what
am I more than a forerunner of others yet to be, both in my travels and
life.
However, the industry of the Count seems to me to have been greater
than his knowledge. He appears to have gone to work with a certain
reserve, which is altogether opposed to that stern earnestness with
which grand objects should be treated.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.]
Nevertheless, his essay in quarto, which is exclusively devoted to the
mineralogy of Sicily, has been of great use to me; and, prepared by
it, I was able to profit by my visit to the Quarries which formerly,
when it was the custom to case the churches and altars with marble and
agate, were more busily worked, though even now they are not idle. I
purchased at them specimens of the hard and soft stones: for it is thus
that they usually designate the marble and agate, chiefly because a
difference of price mainly depends on this difference of quality. But,
besides these, they have still another for a material which is the
produce of the fire of their kilns. In these, after each burning, they
find a sort of glassy flux, which in colour varies from the lightest
to the darkest, and even blackest blue. These lumps are, like other
stones, cut into thin lamina, and then pierced according to the height
of their colour and their purity, and are successfully employed in
the place of lapis lazuli, in the decoration of churches, altars, and
sepulchral monuments.