find myself in a new country, surrounded by objects entirely strange.
The people lead a careless, sauntering life. In the first place, the
doors are without locks, but the host assured me that I might be quite
at ease, even though all I had about me consisted of diamonds. In
the second place, the windows are covered with oiled paper instead
of glass. In the third place, an extremely necessary convenience is
wanting, so that one comes pretty close to a state of nature. When
I asked the waiter for a certain place, he pointed down into the
court-yard: "Qui, abasso puo servirsi!" "Dove?" asked I. "Da per tutto,
dove vuol," was the friendly reply. The greatest carelessness is
visible everywhere, but still there is life and bustle enough. During
the whole day there is a constant chattering and shrieking of the
female neighbors, all have something to do at the same time. I have not
yet seen an idle woman.
[Sidenote: Lago Di Garda.]
The host, with Italian emphasis, assured me, that he felt great
pleasure in being able to serve me with the finest trout. They are
taken near Torbole, where the stream flows down from the mountains, and
the fish seeks a passage upwards. The Emperor farms this fishery for
10,000 gulden. The fish, which are large, often weighing fifty pounds,
and spotted over the whole body to the head, are not trout, properly
so called. The flavour, which is between that of trout and salmon, is
delicate and excellent.
But my real delight is in the fruit.--in the figs, and in the pears,
which must, indeed, be excellent, where citrons are already growing.
* * * * *
_Evening of September_ 13.
At 3 o'clock this morning I started from Torbole, with a couple of
rowers. At first the wind was so favorable that we put up a sail.
The morning was cloudy but tine, and perfectly calm at day-break. We
passed Limona, the mountain-gardens of which, laid out terrace-fashion,
and planted with citron-trees, have a neat and rich appearance. The
whole garden consists of rows of square white pillars placed at some
distance from each other, and rising up the mountain in steps. On these
pillars strong beams are laid, that the trees planted between them may
be sheltered in the winter. The view of these pleasant objects was
favored by a slow passage, and we had already passed Malsesine when the
wind suddenly changed, took the direction usual in the day-time, and
blew towards the north. Rowing was of little use against this superior
power, and, therefore, we were forced to land in the harbour of
Malsesine. This is the first Venetian spot on the eastern side of the
lake. When one has to do with water we cannot say, "I will be at this
or that particular place to-day." I will make my stay here as useful as
I can, especially by making a drawing of the castle, which lies close
to the water, and is a beautiful object. As I passed along I took a
sketch of it.
* * * * *
_Sept. 11th._
The wind, which blew against me yesterday, and drove me into the
harbour of Malsesine, was the cause of a perilous adventure, which I
got over with good humour, and the remembrance of which I still find
amusing. According to my plan, I went early in the morning into the
old castle, which having neither gate nor guard, is accessible to
everybody. Entering the court-yard, I seated myself opposite to the
old tower, which is built on and among the rocks. Here I had selected
a very convenient spot for drawing;--a carved stone seat in the wall,
near a closed door, raised some three or four feet high, such as we
also find in the old buildings in our own country.
[Sidenote: An incident at Malsesine.]
I had not sat long before several persons entered the yard, and walked
backwards and forwards, looking at me. The multitude increased, and at
last so stood as completely to surround me. I remarked that my drawing
had excited attention; however, I did not allow myself to be disturbed,
but quietly continued my occupation. At last a man, not of the most
prepossessing appearance, came up to me, and asked me what I was about.
I replied that I was copying the old tower, that I might have some
remembrance of Malsesine. He said that this was not allowed, and that I
must leave off. As he said this in the common Venetian dialect, so that
I understood him with difficulty, I answered, that I did not understand
him at all. With true Italian coolness he took hold of my paper, and
tore it, at the same time letting it remain on the pasteboard. Here
I observed an air of dissatisfaction among the by-standers; an old
woman in particular said that it was not right, but that the podestà
ought to be called, who was the best judge of such matters. I stood
upright on the steps, having my back against the door, and surveyed the
assembly, which was continually increasing. The fixed eager glances,
the good humoured expression of most of the faces, and all the other
characteristics of a foreign mob, made the most amusing impression upon
me. I fancied that I could see before me the chorus of birds, which, as
Treufreund, I had often laughed at, in the Ettersburg theatre. This put
me in excellent humour, and when the podestà came up with his actuary,
I greeted him in an open manner, and when he asked me why I was drawing
the fortification, modestly replied, that I did not look upon that
wall as a fortification. I called the attention of him and the people
to the decay of the towers and walls, and to the generally defenceless
position of the place, assuring him that I thought I only saw and drew
a ruin.
I was answered thus: "If it was only a ruin, what could there
be remarkable about it?" As I wished to gain time and favour, I
replied very circumstantially, that they must be well aware how
many travellers visited Italy, for the sake of the ruins only, that
Rome, the metropolis of the world, having suffered the depredations
of barbarians, was now full of ruins, which had been drawn hundreds
of times, and that all the works of antiquity were not in such good
preservation as the amphitheatre at Verona, which I hoped soon to see.
The podestà, who stood before me, though in a less elevated position,
was a tall man, not exactly thin, of about thirty years of age. The
flat features of his spiritless face perfectly accorded with the slow
constrained manner, in which he put his questions. Even the actuary,
a sharp little fellow, seemed as if he did not know what to make of a
case so new, and so unexpected. I said a great deal of the same sort;
the people seemed to take my remarks good naturedly, and on turning
towards some kindly female faces, I thought I could read assent and
approval.
When, however, I mentioned the amphitheatre at Verona, which in this
country, is called the "Arena," the actuary, who had in the meanwhile
collected himself, replied, that this was all very well, because the
edifice in question was a Roman building, famed throughout the world.
In these towers, however, there was nothing remarkable, excepting that
they marked the boundary between the Venetian domain and Austrian
Empire, and therefore _espionage_ could not be allowed. I answered
by explaining at some length, that not only the Great and Roman
antiquities, but also those of the Middle-Ages were worth attention.
They could not be blamed, I granted, if, having been accustomed to
this building from their youth upwards, they could not discern in it
so many picturesque beauties as I did. Fortunately the morning sun,
shed the most beautiful lustre on the tower, rocks, and walls, and I
began to describe the scene with enthusiasm. My audience, however, had
these much lauded objects behind them, and as they did not wish to turn
altogether away from me, they all at once twisted their heads, like the
birds, which we call "wry necks" (Wendehälse), that they might see with
their eyes, what I had been lauding to their ears. Even the podestà
turned round towards the picture I had been describing, though with
more dignity than the rest. This scene appeared to me so ridiculous
that my good humour increased, and I spared them nothing--least of all,
the ivy, which had been suffered for ages to adorn the rocks and walls.
The actuary retorted, that this was all very good, but the Emperor
Joseph was a troublesome gentleman, who certainly entertained many
evil designs against Venice; and I might probably have been one of his
subjects, appointed by him, to act as a spy on the borders.
"Far from belonging to the Emperor," I replied, "I can boast, as well
as you, that I am a citizen of a republic, which also governs itself,
but which is not, indeed, to be compared for power and greatness to
the illustrious state of Venice, although in commercial activity, in
wealth, and in the wisdom of its rulers, it is inferior to no state in
Germany. I am a native of Frankfort-on-the-Main, a city, the name and
fame of which has doubtless reached you."
[Sidenote: An incident at Malsesine.]
"Of Frankfort-on-the-Main!" cried a pretty young woman, "then, Mr.
Podestà, you can at once see all about the foreigner, whom I look upon
as an honest man. Let Gregorio be called; he has resided there a long
time, and will be the best judge of the matter."
The kindly faces had already increased around me, the first adversary
had vanished, and when Gregorio came to the spot, the whole affair
took a decided turn in my favor. He was a man upwards of fifty, with
one of those well-known Italian faces. He spoke and conducted himself
like one, who feels that something foreign is not foreign to him, and
told me at once that he had seen service in Bolongari's house, and
would be delighted to hear from me something about this family and the
city in general, which had left a pleasant impression in his memory.
Fortunately his residence at Frankfort had been during my younger
years, and I had the double advantage of being able to say exactly
how matters stood in his time, and what alteration had taken place
afterwards. I told him about all the Italian families, none of whom had
remained unknown to me. With many particulars he was highly delighted,
as, for instance, with the fact that Herr Alessina had celebrated his
"golden wedding,"[2] in the year 1774, and that a medal had been struck
on the occasion, which was in my possession. He remembered that the
wife of this wealthy merchant was by birth a Brentano. I could also
tell him something about the children and grand-children of these
families, how they had grown up, and had been provided for and married,
and had multiplied themselves in their descendants.
When I had given the most accurate information about almost everything
which he asked, his features alternately expressed cheerfulness and
solemnity. He was pleased and touched, while the people cheered up more
and more, and could not hear too much of our conversation, of which--it
must be confessed--he was obliged to translate a part into their own
dialect.
At last he said: "Podestà, I am convinced that this is a good,
accomplished, and well-educated gentleman, who is travelling about
to acquire instruction. Let him depart in a friendly manner, that he
may speak well of us to his fellow-countrymen, and induce them to
visit Malsesine, the beautiful situation of which is well worthy the
admiration of foreigners. I gave additional force to these friendly
words by praising the country, the situation, and the inhabitants, not
forgetting to mention the magistrates as wise and prudent personages."
This was well received, and I had permission to visit the place at
pleasure, in company with Master Gregorio. The landlord, with whom I
had put up, now joined us, and was delighted at the prospect of the
foreign guests, who would crowd upon him, when once the advantages
of Malsesine were properly known. With the most lively curiosity he
examined my various articles of dress, but especially envied me the
possession of a little pistol, which slipped conveniently into the
pocket. He congratulated those who could carry such pretty weapons,
this being forbidden in his country under the severest penalties. This
friendly but obtrusive personage I sometimes interrupted to thank my
deliverer. "Do not thank me," said honest Gregorio, "for you owe me
nothing. If the Podestà had understood his business, and the Actuary
had not been the most selfish man in the world, you would not have got
off so easily. The former was still more puzzled than you, and the
latter would have pocketed nothing by your arrest, the information,
and your removal to Verona. This he rapidly thought over, and you were
already free, before our dialogue was ended."
Towards the evening the good man took me into his vineyard, which was
very well situated, down along the lake. We were accompanied by his
son, a lad of fifteen, who was forced to climb the trees, and pluck me
the best fruit, while the old man looked out for the ripest grapes.
While thus placed between these two kindhearted people, both strange
to the world, alone, as it were, in the deep solitude of the earth, I
felt, in the most lively manner, as I reflected on the day's adventure,
what a whimsical being Man is--how the very thing, which in company
he might enjoy with ease and security, is often rendered troublesome
and dangerous, from his notion, that he can appropriate to himself the
world and its contents after his own peculiar fashion.
Towards midnight my host accompanied me to the barque, carrying the
basket of fruit with which Gregorio had presented me, and thus, with
a favorable wind, I left the shore, which had promised to become a
Læstrygonicum shore to me.
[Footnote 2: The fiftieth anniversary of a wedding-day is so called in
Germany. Trans.]
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Lago Di Garda.]
And now for my expedition on the lake. It ended happily, after the
noble aspect of the water, and of the adjacent shore of Brescia had
refreshed my very heart. On the western side, where the mountains cease
to be perpendicular, and near the lake, the land becomes more flat,
Garignano, Bojaco, Cecina, Toscolan, Maderno, Verdom, and Salo, stand
all in a row, and occupy a reach of about a league and a half; most of
them being built in long streets. No words can express the beauty of
this richly inhabited spot. At 10 o'clock in the morning I landed at
Bartolino, placed my luggage on one mule and myself on another. The
road went now over a ridge, which separates the valley of the Etsch
from the hollow of the lake. The primæval waters seem to have driven
against each other from both sides, in immense currents, and to have
raised this colossal dam of gravel. A fertile soil was deposited upon
the gravel at a quieter period, but the labourer is constantly annoyed
by the appearance of the stones on the surface. Every effort is made to
get rid of them, they are piled in rows and layers one on another, and
thus a sort of thick wall is formed along the path. The mulberry-trees,
from a want of moisture, have a dismal appearance at this elevation.
Springs there are none. From time to time puddles of collected
rain-water may be found, with which the mules and even their drivers
quench their thirst. Some wheels are placed on the river beneath, to
water, at pleasure, those plantations that have a lower situation.
The magnificence of the new country, which opens on you as you descend,
surpasses description. It is a garden a mile long and broad, which lies
quite flat at the foot of tall mountains and steep rocks, and is as
neatly laid out as possible. By this way, about 1 o'clock on the 10th
of September, I reached Verona, where I first write this, finish, and
put together the first part of my diary, and indulge in the pleasing
hope of seeing the amphitheatre in the evening.
Concerning the weather of these days I have to make the following
statement:--The night from the 9th to the 10th was alternately clear
and cloudy, the moon had always a halo round it. Towards 5 o'clock
in the morning all the sky was overcast with gray, not heavy clouds,
which vanished with the advance of day. The more I descended the finer
was the weather. As at Botzen the great mass of the mountains took a
northerly situation, the air displayed quite another quality. From
the different grounds in the landscape, which were separated from
each other in the most picturesque manner, by a tint more or less
blue, it might be seen, that the atmosphere was full of vapors equally
distributed, which it was able to sustain, and which, therefore,
neither fell in the shape of dew, nor were collected in the form of
clouds. As I descended further I could plainly observe, that all the
exhalations from the Botzen valley, and all the streaks of cloud which
ascended from the more southern mountains, moved towards the higher
northern regions, which they did not cover, but veiled with a kind
of yellow fog. In the remotest distance, over the mountains, I could
observe what is called a "water-gull." To the south of Botzen they have
had the finest weather all the summer, only a little _water_ (they say
_aqua_ to denote a light rain), from time to time, and then a return
of sunshine. Yesterday a few drops occasionally fell, and the sun
throughout continued shining. They have not had so good a year for a
long while; everything turns out well; the bad weather they have sent
to us.
I mention but slightly the mountains and the species of stone, since
Ferber's travels to Italy, and Hacquet's journey along the Alps,
give sufficient information respecting this district. A quarter of
a league from the Brenner, there is a marble quarry, which I passed
at twilight. It may, nay, must lie upon mica-slate as on the other
side. This I found near Colman, just as it dawned; lower down there
was an appearance of porphyry. The rocks were so magnificent, and
the heaps were so conveniently broken up along the highway, that a
"Voigt" cabinet might have been made and packed up at once. Without
any trouble of that kind I can take a piece, if it is only to accustom
my eyes and my curiosity to a small quantity. A little below Colman,
I found some porphyry, which splits into regular plates, and between
Brandrol and Neumark some of a similar kind, in which, however, the
laminæ separated in pillars. Ferber considered them to be volcanic
productions, but that was fourteen years ago, when all the world had
its head on fire. Even Hacquet ridicules the notion.
[Sidenote: From Brenner to Verona.]
Of the people I can say but little, and that is not very favorable.
On my descent from the Brenner, I discovered, as soon as day came,
a decided change of form, and was particularly displeased by the
pale brownish complexion of the women. Their features indicated
wretchedness, the children looked equally miserable;--the men somewhat
better. I imagine that the cause of this sickly condition may be found
in the frequent consumption of Indian corn and buckwheat. Both the
former, which they also call "Yellow Blende," and the latter, which is
called "Black Blende," is ground, made into a thick pap with water,
and thus eaten. The Germans on this side, pull out the dough, and fry
it in butter. The Italian Tyrolese, on the contrary, eat it just as it
is, often with scrapings of cheese, and do not taste meat throughout
the year. This necessarily glues up and stops the alimentary channels,
especially with the women and children, and their cachectic complexion
is an indication of the malady. They also eat fruit and green beans,
which they boil down in water, and mix with oil and garlic. I asked
if there were no rich peasants. "Yes, indeed," was the reply. "Don't
they indulge themselves at all? don't they eat anything better?" "No,
they are used to it." "What do they do with their money then? how do
they lay it out?" "Oh, they have their ladies, who relieve them of
that." This is the sum and substance of a conversation with mine host's
daughter at Botzen.
I also learned from her, that the vine-tillers were the worst off,
although they appeared to be the most opulent, for they were in the
hands of commercial towns-people, who advanced them enough to support
life in the bad seasons, and in winter took their wine at a low price.
However, it is the same thing everywhere.
My opinion concerning the food is confirmed by the fact, that the women
who inhabit the towns appear better and better. They have pretty plump
girlish faces, the body is somewhat too short in proportion to the
stoutness, and the size of the head, but sometimes the countenances
have a most agreable expression. The men we already know through the
wandering Tyrolese. In the country their appearance is less fresh than
that of the women, perhaps because the latter have more bodily labour,
and are more in motion, while the former sit at home as traders and
workmen. By the Garda Lake I found the people very brown, without the
slightest tinge of red in their cheeks; however they did not look
unhealthy, but quite fresh and comfortable. Probably the burning
sunbeams, to which they are exposed at the foot of their mountains, are
the cause of their complexion.
* * * * *
FROM VERONA TO VENICE.
_Verona, Sept. 16th._
Well then, the amphitheatre is the first important monument of the old
times that I have seen--and how well it is preserved! When I entered,
and still more when I walked round the edge of it at the top, it seemed
strange to me, that I saw something great, and yet, properly speaking,
saw nothing. Besides I do not like to see it empty, I should like to
see it full of people, just as, in modern times, it was filled up in
honour of Joseph I. and Pius VI. The Emperor, although his eye was
accustomed to human masses, must have been astonished. But it was only
in the earliest times, that it produced its full effect, when the
people was more a people than it is now. For, properly speaking, such
an amphitheatre is constructed to give the people an imposing view of
itself,--to cajole itself.
When anything worth seeing occurs on the level ground, and any one runs
to the spot, the hindermost try by every means to raise themselves
above the foremost; they get upon benches, roll casks, bring up
vehicles, lay planks in every direction, occupy the neighbouring
heights, and a crater is formed in no time.
If the spectacle occur frequently on the same spot, light scaffoldings
are built for those who are able to pay, and the rest of the multitude
must get on as it can. Here the problem of the architect is to satisfy
this general want. By means of his art he prepares such a crater,
making it as simple as possible, that the people itself may constitute
the decoration. When the populace saw itself so assembled, it must
have been astonished at the sight, for whereas it was only accustomed
to see itself running about in confusion, or to find itself crowded
together without particular rule or order, so must this many-headed,
many-minded, wandering animal now see itself combined into a noble
body, made into a definite unity, bound and secured into a mass, and
animated as one form by one mind. The simplicity of the oval is most
pleasingly obvious to every eye, and every head serves as a measure
to show the vastness of the whole. Now we see it empty, we have no
standard, and do not know whether it is large or small.
[Sidenote: Verona.]
The Veronese deserve commendation for the high preservation in which
this edifice is kept. It is built of a reddish marble, which has been
affected by the atmosphere, and hence the steps which have been eaten,
are continually restored, and look almost all new. An inscription makes
mention of one Hieronymus Maurigenus, and of the incredible industry,
which he has expended on this monument. Of the outer wall only a piece
remains, and I doubt whether it was ever quite finished. The lower
arches, which adjoin the large square, called "Il Bra," are let out
to workmen, and the reanimation of these arcades produces a cheerful
appearance.
* * * * *
_Verona, Sept._ 16.
The most beautiful gate, which, however, always remains closed, is
called "Porta stupa," or "del Pallio." As a gate, and considering the
great distance from which it is first seen, it is not well conceived,
and it is not till we come near it, that we recognise the beauty of the
structure.