are much alike in appearance; the fronts being decorated fancifully, in
red and white, and the interiors consisting of several apartments paved
with marble. I will describe to you, in a few words, one of the best in
Cairo, which I visited with three ladies of my acquaintance,—English,
Abyssinian, and Syrian.
After we had passed through two passages, we found ourselves in the
first large apartment, or chamber of repose, in which the bathers
undress previously to their entering the heated chambers, and in which
they dress after taking the bath, and rest on a raised marble platform,
or wide bench, on which are spread mats and carpets. In the centre is a
fountain of cold water, over which is a dome. For a detailed account of
the public baths of Cairo I refer you to my brother’s description; and
shall only relate to you the scenes through which I passed on the
occasion to which I have referred.
In the first apartment, each of us enveloped herself in a very long and
broad piece of drapery,—which, but for its size, I might call a
scarf,—and proceeded through a small chamber, which was moderately
heated, to the principal inner apartment, where the heat was intense.
The plan of this apartment is that of a cross, having four recesses;
each of which, as well as the central portion, is covered with a dome.
The pavements are of white and black marble, and small pieces of fine
red tile, very fancifully and prettily disposed. In the middle is a jet
of hot water, rising from the centre of a high seat of marble, upon
which many persons might sit together. The pavement of each of the
recesses is a few inches higher than that of the central portion of the
apartment; and in one of them is a trough, into which hot water was
constantly pouring from a pipe in the dome above. The whole apartment
was full of steam.
On entering this chamber a scene presented itself which beggars
description. My companions had prepared me for seeing many persons
undressed; but imagine my astonishment on finding at least thirty women
of all ages, and many young girls and children, perfectly unclothed. You
will scarcely think it possible that no one but ourselves had a vestige
of clothing. Persons of all colours, from the black and glossy shade of
the negro to the fairest possible hue of complexion, were formed in
groups, conversing as though full dressed, with perfect _nonchalance_,
while others were strolling about, or sitting round the fountain. I
cannot describe the bath as altogether a beautiful scene; in truth, in
some respects it is disgusting; and I regret that I can never reach a
private room in any bath without passing through the large public
apartment.
I will turn to the more agreeable subject—the operation of the bath,
which is quite luxurious. The sensation experienced on first entering
the hottest chamber is almost overpowering—the heat is extremely
oppressive; and at first I believed that I could not long support such a
temperature; but after the first minute, I was relieved by a gentle, and
afterwards by a profuse perspiration, and no longer felt in any degree
oppressed. It is always necessary for each lady to send her own
bathing-linen, a pair of high clogs, a large copper vessel for hot
water, two copper bowls, and towels.
The first operation is a gentle kneading the flesh, or shampooing. Next
the attendant cracks the joints of those who desire to submit to this
process. I confess I did not suffer such an infliction. Some of the
native women after this are rubbed with a rasp, or rather with two rasps
of different kinds, a coarse one for the feet, and a fine one for the
body; but neither of these rasps do I approve. A small coarse woollen
bag, into which the operator’s hand is inserted, is in my opinion
preferable. Next the head and face are covered with a thick lather,
which is produced by rubbing soap on a handful of fibres of the
palm-tree, which are called leef, and which form a very agreeable and
delicate-looking rubber. It is truly ridiculous to see another under
this operation. When her head and face have been well lathered, and the
soap has been thoroughly washed off by abundance of hot water, a novice
would suppose that at least _they_ were sufficiently purified; but this
is not the case: two or three of such latherings, and as many washings,
are necessary before the attendant thinks her duty to the head and face
accomplished. Then follows the more agreeable part of the affair,—the
general lathering and rubbing, which is performed by the attendant so
gently, and in so pleasant a manner, that it is quite a luxury; and I am
persuaded that the Eastern manner of bathing is highly salubrious, from
its powerful effect upon the skin.
When the operation was completed, I was enveloped in a dry piece of
drapery, similar to the bathing-dress, and conducted to the
reposing-room, where I was rubbed and dressed, and left to take rest and
refreshment, and to reflect upon the strange scene which I had
witnessed. I wish I could say that there are no drawbacks to the
enjoyment of the luxury I have described; but the eyes and ears of an
Englishwoman must be closed in the public bath in Egypt before she can
fairly enjoy the satisfaction it affords; for besides the very foreign
scenes which cannot fail to shock her feelings of propriety, the cries
of the children are deafening and incessant. The perfection of Eastern
bathing is therefore rather to be enjoyed in a private bath, with the
attendance of a practised velláneh.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTER XXVIII.
April, 1844.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I remember writing, in my simplicity, that I believed Mohammad ’Alee
Pasha to have but two wives; but having been introduced to another of
his wives, the mother of Haleem Bey, in his hareem in the citadel, I
conjecture that there is yet another, making the full Muslim allowance,
namely, four wives.
The ride to the citadel is not an agreeable one; and at this time the
ascent is attended with some danger, as the Pasha has directed the
repair of the road leading from the Báb el Weezer; in consequence of
which heaps of stones and rubbish almost obstruct the way. I had chosen
this route because it is unpaved, and my experience had made me dread
the slippery paved entrance by the Great Gate, mounted, as I was, on a
“high ass.” Although expecting a tumble in riding over the rubbish, I
could not help remarking the enormous size of some stones which had been
thrown down from an old wall, so much resembling stones which lie
scattered around the pyramids, that I do not doubt they are some of
those which were transported by Karakoosh when he was employed in
building the citadel.
The Kasr appropriated to the hareem of the Pasha in the citadel is a
noble mansion, the finest domestic structure I have seen in Egypt. The
interior is on the usual Turkish plan. On the ground-floor is a spacious
saloon, paved with marble of a bluish white, nearly surrounded by suites
of apartments which open into it; and on the first-floor are rooms on
the same plan. Accompanied by my friend Mrs. Sieder, I passed from the
principal entrance to a large square court, and having crossed this, we
found ourselves in the lower of the two saloons. We then ascended by an
ample marble staircase to the saloon on the first-floor. Here a most
magnificent prospect burst upon our view: three windows which are
opposite the head of the stairs, command the whole of Cairo, and the
plain beyond; and every object of interest to the north and west of
Cairo within the reach of our sight lay in picturesque variety before
our admiring gaze; the green carpet of the Delta, and the plain of
Goshen, terminating the view towards the north. I would willingly have
lingered here, but our attendants were impatient to conduct us into the
presence of the chief lady.
We found her sitting in a room which was carpeted and surrounded by a
divan, attended by three ladies. She received us with much respect and
cordiality, and as I had been informed that she had the reputation of
being an exceedingly haughty person, I was agreeably surprised by
finding in her conversation and deportment the utmost affability and
politeness. She conversed with me freely of my children, told me that
her son was under twenty years of age, and introduced to my notice two
nice little girls, children of the hareem, one of whom presented me with
a _bouquet_. The subject of the number, health, and age of each lady’s
children is always the darling theme of conversation in the hareems, and
truly to a mother ever agreeable. One lady asked me with perfect
gravity, whether one of my boys, being thirteen years of age, was
married. I conclude she meant betrothed, for the same word is used to
express marriage and betrothal. I explained to her that, in England, a
boy must become a man before he thinks of marriage, or even betrothal;
and that if he entered into the marriage state at twenty years of age,
and a girl at fifteen, they would be considered too young. The lady whom
I addressed, and her companion, listened with much attention, and one of
them earnestly maintained that the English were quite right in objecting
to such young marriages as take place constantly in the East.
With respect to the beauties in this hareem, I can only say that one was
very remarkable; and among the ornaments that I saw there, there was
nothing deserving of particular notice excepting the pearl necklaces of
the chief lady and two others: these were composed of the largest pearls
that I have ever seen, but nearly tight round the throat.
On quitting this hareem, I was conducted by the ladies with the ceremony
I have not described, which was that of holding the habarah on each
side, while I crossed the saloons, and until I reached the hareem
curtain. These attendant ladies, in imitation of their superiors, vied
with each other in paying us every polite attention, and each and all in
the hareem of the citadel were pictures of cheerfulness.
I was informed that no Franks had ever before been admitted into this
hareem, and I believe it to be the case; though a portion of the same
building, entered from the other side, and in which the Pasha had some
rooms fitted up in the European manner, has been frequently seen by
travellers. Some European ladies, a short time since, offered twenty
dollars to procure admission, and were refused. I did not offer a bribe;
for I never have condescended to obtain access to a hareem through the
servants, and have either been introduced by my kind friend Mrs. Sieder,
or paid my visit without any explanation to the slaves, and have never
met with the slightest opposition. On quitting, it is necessary to give
a present to the chief eunuch, or to the doorkeeper.
After paying this visit, I called on my old friends, the hareem of
Habeeb Efendee; and I confess I approached their house with some
apprehension that, instead of their usual hearty welcome, I might meet
with a cold reception, during the present state of things. England and
France having lately required of the Sultán a concession which every
Christian must ardently desire, but which it is almost impossible for
him, as a Muslim sovereign, to grant, and the result being not yet
known, it was particularly agreeable to our feelings, in visiting his
near relations, to find the whole family prepared to welcome us with
even more than their usual affection. The ladies in that hareem being
particularly well-informed, the conversation during our visit takes
always a lively, and often a political turn; and as soon as we were
seated yesterday, the passing events were discussed, and the question of
liberty of conscience on religious subjects soon introduced. But here I
must digress, to remark to you one circumstance which much pleased me.
While I was in conversation with a lady who was sitting next to me, we
both heard the whole company, consisting of the daughters and several
visitors, suddenly rise, and, following their example immediately, I
observed that the chief lady was entering the room. Very delightful is
this outward respect for parents, which is not here, as in England,
confined to a few of the families of the great; and when accompanied
with that devotion of heart so evident in the conduct of the daughters
of Habeeb Efendee. Their veneration for their amiable mother is
complete; while they are permitted by her, in their conversation and
manners, to indulge in the sweetest familiarity of affection.
This good lady saluted us in her usual charming manner, and took her
seat, placing me, as she always has done, on her right hand; after which
all resumed their places, and she listened with extreme interest to our
conversation, which was translated to her into Turkish by her daughters.
In common with all the Turkish ladies I have seen in this country, the
wife of Habeeb Efendee speaks sufficient Arabic for the usual purposes
of conversation; but when any particularly interesting topic is
discussed, they all like it explained in their own language.
The eldest daughter requested to be informed particularly of the nature
of the demand lately made by England and France on the Sultán; and when
it was explained that he was required to protect from martyrdom such
persons who, having been originally Christian, had become Muslims, and
subsequently returned to their first profession, she replied, with an
earnestness of manner which interested my friend and me extremely, “It
is but the fulfilment of prophecy! When I was a little child, I was
taught that, in this year, great things would commence, which would
require three years for their completion.”
Surely she drew a beautiful conclusion, and under circumstances, too, of
painful feelings to one strictly attached to the laws of her religion.
And here I must faithfully observe, that I have not met with this lady’s
equal in Eastern female society, in gentleness, sweetness, and good
sense; and, withal, she has decidedly a cultivated mind. The Hon. Mrs.
Damer has very agreeably described this lady in her “Tour,” and has
particularly mentioned her affection for her mother. I must not omit to
tell you of the curiosity of the whole hareem on the subject of Mrs.
Damer’s book. They had been informed that she had described them, and
questioned us closely on the subject. We had much pleasure in assuring
them that the description in that lady’s work consisted in honourable
mention of her reception by the hareem, and of their agreeable manners,
and perfect politeness and cordiality. They inquired the exact period of
her visit, that they might perfectly recall her to their recollection.
Secluded as they are, they remember the visits of Europeans as eras in
their lives; and I am persuaded that they feel the pleasure they so
agreeably express when we pay them a visit.
Mrs. Sieder has shown them the portrait of the present Sultán in Mrs.
Damer’s book; and the eldest daughter has made a copy of it in colours,
very creditable to a Turkish lady. It will doubtless excite great
interest in every visitor of the family; and, unless protected by a
glass, it will perhaps, in the course of a few weeks, be kissed entirely
away, like a miniature portrait of a Turkish grandee of which I was
lately told.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPENDIX.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
APPENDIX.
[From Mr. Lane’s “Modern Egyptians.”]
MAGIC.
A few days after my first arrival in this country, my curiosity was
excited on the subject of magic by a circumstance related to me by Mr.
Salt, our consul-general. Having had reason to believe that one of his
servants was a thief, from the fact of several articles of property
having been stolen from his house, he sent for a celebrated Magh-rab’ee
magician, with the view of intimidating them and causing the guilty one
(if any of them were guilty) to confess his crime. The magician came;
and said that he would cause the exact image of the person who had
committed the thefts to appear to any youth not arrived at the age of
puberty; and desired the master of the house to call in any boy whom he
might choose. As several boys were then employed in a garden adjacent to
the house, one of them was called for this purpose. In the palm of this
boy’s right hand the magician drew, with a pen, a certain diagram, in
the centre of which he poured a little ink. Into this ink he desired the
boy steadfastly to look. He then burned some incense and several bits of
paper inscribed with charms; and, at the same time, called for various
objects to appear in the ink. The boy declared that he saw all these
objects, and, last of all, the image of the guilty person; he described
his stature, countenance and dress; said that he knew him; and directly
ran down into the garden, and apprehended one of the labourers, who,
when brought before the master, immediately confessed that he was the
thief.
The above relation made me desirous of witnessing a similar performance
during my first visit to this country; but not being acquainted with the
name of the magician here alluded to, or his place of abode, I was
unable to obtain any tidings of him. I learned, however, soon after my
return to England, that he had become known to later travellers in
Egypt; was residing in Cairo; and that he was called the sheykh
’Abd-El-Kádir El-Maghrab’ee. A few weeks after my second arrival in
Egypt, my neighbour ’Osmán, interpreter of the British consulate,
brought him to me; and I fixed a day for his visiting me, to give me a
proof of the skill for which he is so much famed. He came at the time
appointed, about two hours before noon; but seemed uneasy; frequently
looked up at the sky, through the window; and remarked that the weather
was unpropitious; it was dull and cloudy, and the wind was boisterous.
The experiment was performed with three boys; one after another. With
the first it was perfectly successful; but with the others, it
completely failed. The magician said that he could do nothing more that
day; and that he would come in the evening of a subsequent day. He kept
his appointment; and admitted that the time was favourable. While
waiting for my neighbour, before mentioned, to come and witness the
performances, we took pipes and coffee; and the magician chatted with me
on indifferent subjects. He is a fine, tall, and stout man, of a rather
fair complexion, with a dark-brown beard; is shabbily dressed; and
generally wears a large green turban, being a descendant of the prophet.
In his conversation, he is affable and unaffected. He professed to me
that his wonders were effected by the agency of _good_ spirits; but to
others, he has said the reverse—that his magic is Satanic.
In preparing for the experiment of the magic mirror of ink, which, like
some other performances of a similar nature, is here termed _darb
el-mendel_, the magician first asked me for a reed-pen and ink, a piece
of paper, and a pair of scissors; and, having cut off a narrow strip of
paper, wrote upon it certain forms of invocation, together with another
charm, by which he professes to accomplish the object of the experiment.
He did not attempt to conceal these; and on my asking him to give me
copies of them, he readily consented, and immediately wrote them for me;
explaining to me, at the same time, that the object he had in view was
accompanied through the influence of the two first words, “Tarshun” and
“Taryooshun,” which, he said, were the names of two genii, his “familiar
spirits.” I compared the copies with the originals; and found that they
exactly agreed.
“Tarshun! Taryooshun! Come down!
Come down! Be present! Whither are gone
the prince and his troops? Where are El-Ahmar
the prince and his troops? Be present,
ye servants of these names!”
“And this is the removal. ‘And we have removed from thee
thy veil; and thy sight to-day
is piercing.’ Correct: correct.”
Having written these, the magician cut off the paper containing the
forms of invocation from that upon which the other charm was written;
and cut the former into six strips. He then explained to me that the
object of the latter charm (which contains part of the 21st verse of the
Soorat Káf, or 50th chapter of the Kur-án) was to open the boy’s eyes in
a supernatural manner; to make his sight pierce into what is to us the
invisible world.
I had prepared by the magician’s direction, some frankincense and
coriander-seed,[47] and a chafing-dish with some live charcoal in it.
These were now brought into the room, together with the boy who was to
be employed: he had been called in, by my desire, from among some boys
in the street, returning from a manufactory: and was about eight or nine
years of age. In reply to my inquiry respecting the description of
persons who could see in the magic mirror of ink, the magician said that
they were a boy not arrived at puberty, a virgin, a black female slave,
and a pregnant woman. The chafing-dish was placed before him and the
boy; and the latter was placed on a seat. The magician now desired my
servant to put some frankincense and coriander-seed into the
chafing-dish; then, taking hold of the boy’s right hand, he drew, in the
palm of it, a magic square, of which a copy is here given. The figures
which it contains are Arabic numerals.[48] In the centre, he poured a
little ink, and desired the boy to look into it, and tell him if he
could see his face reflected in it; the boy replied that he saw his face
clearly. The magician, holding the boy’s hand all the while,[49] told
him to continue looking intently into the ink; and not to raise his
head.
Footnote 47:
He generally requires some benzoin to be added to these.
Footnote 48:
The numbers in this magic square, in our own ordinary characters, are
as follows:—
┌──┬──┬──┐
│4 │9 │2 │
├──┼──┼──┤
│3 │5 │7 │
├──┼──┼──┤
│8 │1 │6 │
└──┴──┴──┘
It will be seen that the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal rows give
each the same sum, namely, 15.
Footnote 49:
This reminds us of animal magnetism.