forgotten our man’s intention, although we were talking over the subject
of the disturbances until nearly midnight, and speculating upon the
cause, in the room where my children were happily sleeping, when we were
startled by a tremendous discharge, which was succeeded by the deep
hoarse voice of the doorkeeper, exclaiming “There he lies, the
accursed!” and a sound as of a creature struggling and gasping for
breath. In the next moment, the man loudly called his fellow servant,
crying, “Come up, the accursed is struck down before me!”—and this was
followed by such mysterious sounds that we believed either a man had
been shot, and was in his last agonies, or that our man had accidentally
shot himself.
My brother went round the gallery, while I and my sister-in-law stood
like children trembling hand in hand, and my boys mercifully slept (as
young ones do sleep), sweetly and soundly through all the confusion and
distress. It appeared that the man used not only ball-cartridge, but put
two charges of powder, with two balls, into his pistol. I will describe
the event, however, in his own words. “The ’efreet passed me in the
gallery and repassed me, when I thus addressed it. ‘Shall we quit this
house, or will you do so?’ ‘You shall quit it,’ he answered; and passing
me again, he threw dust into my right eye. This proved he was a devil,”
continued the man; “and I wrapped my cloak around me, and watched the
spectre as it receded. It stopped in that corner, and I observed
attentively its appearance. It was tall and perfectly white. I stooped,
and before it moved again, discharged my pistol, which I had before
concealed, and the accursed was struck down before me, and here are the
remains.” So saying, he picked up a small burnt mass, which my brother
showed us afterwards, resembling more the sole of a shoe than any thing
else, but perforated by fire in several places, and literally burnt to a
cinder. This, the man asserted (agreeably with a popular opinion), was
always the relic when a devil was destroyed, and it lay on the ground
under a part of the wall where the bullets had entered.
The noise which succeeded the report, and which filled me with horror,
is, and must ever remain, a mystery. On the following morning we closely
examined the spot, and found nothing that could throw light on the
subject. The burnt remains do not help us to a conclusion; one thing,
however, I cannot but believe—that some one who had personated the evil
one suffered some injury, and that the darkness favoured his escape. It
is truly very ridiculous in these people to believe that the remains of
a devil resemble the sole of an old shoe. It reminds me of the condensed
spirits of whom we read in the “Thousand and One Nights,” who were (so
say tradition) bottled up, hermetically sealed, and thrown into the sea,
by order of Suleyman the son of Da-ood.
I need scarcely say that the servant was reprimanded for disobeying his
orders with regard to charging the pistol. With this one exception, he
proved ever obedient, most respectful, and excellent in every point. I
really believe the man was so worn out by want of sleep, and exasperated
by finding the same figure nightly pacing round the galleries, and
preventing his rest, that he became desperate.
You will remember the story, in the “Thousand and One Nights,” of the
revenge threatened by an ’efreet on a merchant, for having unconsciously
slain his son by throwing a date-stone, which occasioned a mortal wound.
The fear of unknowingly injuring an ’efreet and incurring his resentment
is as strong as ever in the minds of these people. They always say
“Destoor” (permission) when about to step down from any elevated place,
or when they see another person going to do so. A poor little boy fell
on his face the other day near our house, and hurt himself certainly,
but before he cried, he exclaimed, “Destoor!” I suppose concluding that
if he had fallen on an ’efreet unwittingly, the asking permission after
the fact might cancel the offence; and having done so he was satisfied,
and cried heartily.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTER XIV.
Cairo, February, 1833.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
You know how much I desire to obtain access to respectable hareems, as
well those of the highest as those of the middle classes; and now that
my hope has been realized, I find that I did not desire what would
disappoint my expectations. Indeed I have felt exceedingly interested in
observing the manners of the ladies of this country; in some cases I
have been amused by their familiarity, and in many fascinated by the
natural grace of their deportment. I am aware that by description I
cannot do them justice, but I will endeavour to give you faithful
pictures of those hareems I have already seen; and first I must tell you
that I am indebted exceedingly to the kindness of Mrs. Sieder, the lady
of our excellent resident missionary, who has gained the confidence of
the most distinguished hareems in this country, and has given me some
introductions I particularly desired, without any reserve, and in the
most ready and friendly manner. Among the ladies to whom she has
introduced me are those of Habeeb Eféndee, the late governor of Cairo;
and in relating to you the particulars of my first visit to them, I give
you an account of my initiation into the mysteries of the high hareems.
I had been some time in Cairo before I dared to mount the “high ass;”
for their appearance is really formidable. I adopted the plan followed
by many ladies here, that of a prayer-carpet spread on a common saddle;
but in visiting the _high_ hareems, it became necessary to ride the
_high_ ass; and I found it infinitely more agreeable than my usual
donkey’s equipment. Certainly I was obliged constantly to stoop my head
under the gateways, and came nearly in contact with some projecting
first-floor windows; therefore I found it necessary to be on the alert;
but setting aside these objections, there is no comparison to be made
between the “high ass” and the ordinary donkeys—the former is so
decidedly preferable.
When we arrived at the house of Habeeb Eféndee, and had passed the outer
entrance, I found that the hareem apartments, as in other houses of the
great in this country, are not confined to the first and upper floors,
but form a separate and complete house, distinct from that of the men.
Having passed a spacious hall, paved with marble, we were met at the
door of the first apartment by the elder daughter of Habeeb Eféndee, who
gave me the usual Eastern salutation, touching her lips and forehead
with her right hand, and then insisted on removing my riding-dress
herself, although surrounded by slaves. This was a mark of extraordinary
condescension, as you will presently see. In the houses of the middle
classes, the ladies generally honour their visitors by disrobing them of
their riding-dress; but in the high hareems this office is generally
performed by slaves, and only by a member of the family when a guest is
especially distinguished.
In visiting those who are considered the noble of the land, I resume,
under my Eastern riding costume, my English dress; thus avoiding the
necessity of subjecting myself to any humiliation. In the Turkish
in-door costume, the manner of my salutations must have been more
submissive than I should have liked; while, as an Englishwoman, I am
entertained by the most distinguished, not only as an equal, but
generally as a superior. I have never given more than the usual
salutation, excepting in the case of addressing elderly ladies, when my
inclination leads me to distinguish them by respectfully bending, and
lowering my right hand before I touch my lips and forehead, when I am
presented, and when I leave them. On receiving sweetmeats, coffee,
sherbet, or any refreshment, and on returning the cup, plate, &c., which
contain them, I give always the customary salutation to the chief lady
of the hareem, whose situation on the divan points her out as the
superior of the party.
At home, and when visiting ladies of the middle class, I wear the
Turkish dress, which is delightfully comfortable, being admirably
adapted to the climate of this country. I have never gone out but in the
Eastern riding-dress, which I have already described to you.
When the lady I have mentioned had removed my surtout apparel, a slave
in attendance received them in an exquisite pink kerchief of cashmere,
richly embroidered with gold. The kerchiefs of this kind, in the hareems
of the wealthy, are generally very elegant, but that was the most
perfect specimen I have seen of correct and tasteful embroidery. The
riding-dress was immediately taken into another room, according to a
usual custom, which is observed for the purpose of creating a short
delay, giving an opportunity to offer some additional refreshment when
the guest has proposed to take her leave. My new acquaintance then
conducted me to the divan, and placed me next to the seat of honour,
which was reserved for her mother, the first cousin of the late Sultán
Mahmoud, who soon entered the room, and gave me a cordial welcome,
assigning to me the most distinguished seat on her right hand, the same
to which her daughter had conducted me, while the grandmother of Abbas
Pasha sat on her left. She was soon followed by her second daughter, who
greeted me with much politeness, and in a very elegant manner assured me
that I was welcome. She was more richly attired than her sister;
therefore I will describe to you her dress.
She wore on her head a dark handkerchief twisted round a tarboosh, with
a very splendid sprig of diamonds attached to the right side, and
extending partly over her forehead. The sprig was composed of very large
brilliants, disposed in the form of three lutes, in the centre, from
each of which a branch extended, forming an oval shape, at least five
inches in length. High on the left side of her head she wore a knot or
slide of diamonds, through which was drawn a bunch of ringlets, which,
from their position, appeared to be artificial; her tarboosh had the
usual blue silk tassel, but this was divided and hanging on either side.
Her long vest and trousers were of a dark flowered India fabric; she
wore round her waist a large and rich cashmere shawl; and her neck was
decorated with many strings of very large pearls, confined at intervals
by gold beads. She was in one respect strangely disfigured; her eyebrows
being painted with kohl, and united by the black pigment in a very broad
and most unbecoming manner. Many women of all classes here assume this
disguise: some apply the kohl to the eyebrows as well as to the eyes,
with great delicacy; but the lady in question had her eyebrows so
remarkable, that her other features were deprived of their natural
expression and effect.
A number of white slaves formed a large semicircle before us, and
received from others, who waited in the ante-chamber, silver trays,
containing glass dishes of sweetmeats. There were three spoons in each
dish, and two pieces of sweetmeat in each spoon. These were immediately
succeeded by coffee, which was also brought on silver trays; the small
china cups being, as usual, in stands, shaped like egg-cups; but these
were not, as in ordinary houses, simply of silver filigree, or plain,
but decorated with diamonds. They were certainly elegant, but more
costly than beautiful. The coffee is never handed on the tray, but
gracefully presented by the attendant, holding the little stand between
the thumb and finger of the right hand. After these refreshments a short
time elapsed, when two slaves brought in sherbet on silver waiters, in
exceedingly elegant cut-glass cups, with saucers and covers. Each tray
was covered with a round pink richly-embroidered cover, which the slave
removed as she approached us. To receive our cups, of the contents of
which, according to custom, we drank about two-thirds, another slave
approached, with a large white embroidered kerchief, ostensibly for the
purpose of wiping the mouth; but any lady would be thought quite a
novice who did more than touch it with her lips.
In the course of conversation, I expressed my admiration of the Turkish
language, and, to my surprise, the elder of the young ladies gave me a
general invitation, and proposed to become my instructress: addressing
herself to Mrs. Sieder with the most affectionate familiarity, she said,
“O my sister, persuade your friend to come to me frequently, that I may
teach her Turkish; in doing which, I shall learn her language, and we
can read and write together.” I thanked her for her very polite offer,
but made no promise that I would become her pupil; foreseeing that it
would lead to a very considerable waste of time. In all the hareems I
have visited, Arabic is understood and spoken; so I do not expect any
advantage from a knowledge of Turkish, unless I could devote to its
study considerable attention.
The perfect good humour and cheerfulness which pervaded this
family-circle is well worthy of remark, and much engaged my thoughts
during the morning of my visit. All that I observed of the manners of
the Eastern women, at Habeeb Eféndee’s and elsewhere, leads me to
consider the perfect contrast which the customs of Eastern life present
to the whole construction of European society. If you have read Mr.
Urquhart’s “Spirit of the East,” you have felt interested in his view of
the life of the hareem, and have thought that the Eastern “home” which
he represents in such a pleasing manner possesses considerable
attractions. Believe me, there is much to fascinate and much to interest
the mind in observing peculiarities in these people which have no
parallel in the West; and I could furnish a letter on contrasts nearly
as curious as Mr. Urquhart’s.
How extraordinary it seems that girls, until they are given away in
marriage, see only persons of their own sex, with the exception of a few
very near male relations, and then receive as their future lord and
master one with whom no previous acquaintance has been possible! This is
so revolting to the mind of an Englishwoman, that the mere consideration
of such a system (which indeed, I am told, is beyond what the rigour of
the law requires) is intolerable; therefore I must observe, and admire
all that is admirable, and endeavour to forget what is so objectionable
in the state of Eastern society.
Before our departure it was proposed that I should see their house; and
the elder daughter threw her arm round my neck, and thus led me through
a magnificent room which was surrounded by divans; the elevated portion
of the floor was covered with India matting, and in the middle of the
depressed portion was the most tasteful fountain I have seen in Egypt,
exquisitely inlaid with black, red, and white marble. The ceiling was a
beautiful specimen of highly-wrought arabesque work, and the walls as
usual whitewashed, and perfectly plain, with the exception of the lower
portions, which, to the height of about six feet, were cased with Dutch
tiles.
I was conducted up stairs in the same manner; and I could not help
feeling exceedingly amused at my situation; and considering that these
ladies are of the royal family of Turkey, you will see that I was most
remarkably honoured.
When we approached the bath, we entered the reclining room, which was
furnished with divans, and presented a most comfortable appearance; but
the heat and vapour were so extremely oppressive in the region of the
bath, that we merely looked into it, and gladly returned to the cool
gallery. I am not surprised that you are curious on the subject of the
bath and the Eastern manner of using it; and I hope to devote a future
letter to a description of the operation (for such indeed it may be
styled), and the place in which that operation is performed.
On our reaching the stairs, the second daughter of Habeeb Eféndee took
her sister’s place; and with her arm round my neck, we descended the
stairs, and re-entered the room where I had received so kind a
reception. When we rose to take our leave, the elder daughter received
my riding-dress from a slave, and was about to attire me, when her
sister said, “You took them off; it is for me to put them on.” The elder
lady partly consented, retaining the habarah, and thus they dressed me
together. Then, after giving me the usual salutation, they each
cordially pressed my hand, and kissed my cheek. We then descended into
the court, attended by the ladies, and a crowd of white slaves. Having
crossed the court, we arrived at the great gate, through which I had
before passed, which was only closed by a large mat, suspended before
it, forming the curtain of the hareem. This mat was raised by black
eunuchs, who poured from a passage without, and immediately after the
ladies bade us farewell, and returned, followed by their slaves. The
principal eunuch ascended first the mounting platform, and placed me on
the donkey, while two others arranged my feet in the stirrups; our own
servants being kept in the background.
A few days after this visit, I received a second invitation from this
hareem, with the polite assurance that they intended making a festival
and fantasia for my amusement.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTER XV.
April, 1843.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
You will congratulate us on our having quitted “the haunted house;” and
you will do so heartily when I tell you that six families have succeeded
each other in it, in as many weeks, since our departure. The sixth
family was about to quit immediately when we heard this news; five
having been driven out by most obstinate persecutions, not only during
the nights, but in broad daylight, of so violent a description, that the
windows were all broken in a large upper chamber, our favourite room.
The sixth family suffered similar annoyances, and also complained that
much of their china was demolished. Like ourselves, no one has been able
to obtain quiet rest in that house, or rather I should say, others have
been in a worse state than ourselves, for we obtained some relief in
consequence of our doorkeeper’s achievement. And now I hope I have done
with this subject. I have said much upon it, but I must be held
excusable, as “’tis passing strange.”
Our present house is extremely commodious, and much taste and judgment
have been displayed in its construction. The terrace is extensive and
very picturesque, and the upper rooms are well situated. Most of the
rooms are furnished with glass windows, and the house altogether, being
exceedingly well built, is adapted for affording warmth in the winter,
and proving a cool summer residence.
With regard to a sojourn in Egypt, it is not an easy matter to give you
the _pour et contre_. Of one thing I am convinced, that persons must
remain a year in this country, that is, they must go the round of the
seasons, or nearly so, before they can fully judge of the comforts it
offers. I well remember the extreme annoyance I experienced, for some
months after our arrival, from the unusually prolonged heat, of which I
complained to you, and from the flies and musquitoes, which were really
and constantly distressing; and I could scarcely believe what people
told me, namely, that I should soon find myself very well contented with
the climate of the country. As to the musquitoes, they interfere so much
with enjoyment, that a traveller who visits Egypt during the great heat
may assert, with truth, that he has no comfort by day, nor by night
until he enters his curtain. I confess that I often feared we could not
remain here as long as I wished. No sooner, however, did the Nile
subside, than my hopes revived; and finding that the most charming
temperature imaginable succeeded the heat, I began to understand what
travellers mean when they call this a delicious climate. November is a
sweet month here—December and January are rather too cold, taking into
consideration that there are neither fire-places nor chimneys in any of
the houses, excepting in the kitchens. February and March are perfectly
delightful, the temperature then being almost as mild as summer in
England. During April there occur some instances of hot wind, otherwise
it is an agreeable month. In May the hot winds are trying, and then
follow four months of oppressive heat.
Devoted as I am, justly, to my own dear country and her blessed
associations, I can give you my candid opinion, without any fear that I
shall be suspected of preferring a residence in the Levant to my English
home, and will show you, without reserve, in what consist the
fascinations of this part of the East;—in the climate, in the manners of
the people, and in the simplicity of their habits, which not only
attract my admiration, but render me much less affected by their general
poverty than I am by less distress in my own country. It is very certain
that if a daily journal were published in Cairo, we should not see
paragraphs headed “death by starvation,” “distressing case,” &c.; but
why is it? for there are no houses here for the reception of the poor,
as in England. It results from the contented spirit of the poor, if
provided simply with bread and water; and, more than all, from the sort
of family union which subsists throughout the East, and which literally
teaches the poor to “bear each other’s burthens.” In visiting the middle
and higher classes of society, the same family compact is observable,
and the mother of the family continues always the mother and the head;
her gentle reign lasting with her valued life, and the love and respect
of those around her increasing with her years. It is asserted, that when
Mohammed was asked what relation had the strongest claim on affection
and respect, he replied with warmth, “The mother! the mother! the
mother!”
All blood relations in the East take precedence of the wife, who is
received into a family as a younger sister. It could scarcely be
suffered here, or in Turkey, that a father or mother should quit a house
to make way for a son’s wife. This you will remember is remarked in Mr.
Urquhart’s “Spirit of the East;” and let me ask you, is not this as it
should be? I cannot understand how any person with a spark of nature in
his breast could allow a beloved parent to resign what a child should be
willing to shed his heart’s blood to preserve.