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THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT.
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[Illustration: Publisher’s Logo]
THE HOME & TRAVELLER’S LIBRARY SEMI-MONTHLY.
II.
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PHILADELPHIA:
G. B. ZEIBER & CO.
1845.
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No. I.
OF THE
HOME AND TRAVELLER’S LIBRARY
CONTAINED
TEXAS
AND
THE GULF OF MEXICO;
OR
YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD.
BY MRS. HOUSTOUN.
With Illustrations.
No. II.
THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT.
BY MRS. POOLE.
To be followed, at intervals of about two weeks, by
No. III.
NIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE.
AND
No. IV.
SKETCHES
OF
CREDULITY, IMPOSTURE AND DECEPTION.
ETC. ETC. ETC.
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[Illustration: From the Library Of…]
II.
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THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT;
LETTERS FROM CAIRO,
WRITTEN DURING A RESIDENCE THERE IN 1842, 3, & 4.
WITH
E. W. LANE, ESQ.,
AUTHOR OF “THE MODERN EGYPTIANS.”
BY HIS SISTER.
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PHILADELPHIA:
G. B. ZIEBER & CO.
1845.
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C. SHERMAN, PRINTER, PHILADELPHIA.
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PREFACE.
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The desire of shortening the period of my separation from a beloved
brother, was the first and strongest motive that induced me to think of
accompanying him to the country in which I am now writing, and which he
was preparing to visit for the third time. An eager curiosity, mainly
excited by his own publications, greatly increased this desire; and
little persuasion on his part was necessary to draw me to a decision;
but the idea was no sooner formed than he found numerous arguments in
its favour. The opportunities I might enjoy of obtaining an insight into
the mode of life of the higher classes of the ladies in this country,
and of seeing many things highly interesting in themselves, and rendered
more so by their being accessible only to a lady, suggested to him the
idea that I might both gratify my own curiosity, and collect much
information of a novel and interesting nature, which he proposed I
should embody in a series of familiar letters to a friend. To encourage
me to attempt this latter object, he placed at my disposal a large
collection of his own unpublished notes, that I might extract from them,
and insert in my letters whatever I might think fit; and in order that I
might record my impressions and observations with less restraint than I
should experience if always feeling that I was writing for the press, he
promised me that he would select those letters which he should esteem
suitable for publication, and mark them to be copied. The present
selection has been made by him; and I fear the reader may think that
affection has sometimes biased his judgment; but am encouraged to hope
for their favourable reception, for the sake of the more solid matter
with which they are interspersed, from the notes of one to whom Egypt
has become almost as familiar as England.
SOPHIA POOLE.
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CONTENTS.
LETTER I.
Approach to Alexandria—Old and new 13
harbours—General aspect of the town—Costume and
appearance of the inhabitants—Shops and
shopkeepers—European part of town—Pharos (or
lighthouse)
LETTER II.
Situation and construction of Alexandria—Supply of 21
water—Climate and degree of
salubrity—Telegraphs—City wall—Cleopatra’s
Needle—Pompey’s Pillar—Tradition respecting the
burning of the Alexandrian Library—Necropolis of
Alexandria
LETTER III.
Voyage from Alexandria to Cairo—Canal from 31
Alexandria to the Nile—Boats on the Nile—Town of
Fooweh—Village of Shubra Kheet—Ancient town of
Sais, and present state of the remains—Egyptian
festivals—Voyage up the Nile—Boats and
boatmen—Instances of mirage—Banks of the
Nile—Arrival at Boulak, and equipment in
Egyptian costume—Ride from Boulak to Cairo
LETTER IV.
Arrival at Cairo—Bridal processions—Funeral 43
processions—General form of construction of the
better class of houses in Cairo—Annoyance
arising from the supposed visits of an ’efreet
(evil spirit or ghost)—Extraordinary noises made
by the supposed ’efreet—Want of cleanliness of
the female servants
LETTER V.
General physical sketch of Egypt—Lower Egypt—The 52
Nile—The valleys of the Nile—Soil and
cultivation—Annual inundation of Lower Egypt by
the Nile—Gradual rise and decrease of the
river—Use of the water for drinking—Rapidity of
the current, and navigation of the river
LETTER VI.
Physical sketch of Egypt, continued—Climate of 59
Egypt—Heat—Infrequency of rain—Prevalence of
northwesterly winds—Other winds—Khamáseen
winds—The Samoom—Whirling pillars of sand—The
‘saráb,’ or mirage—Irrigation of the
fields—Physical and agricultural calendar of
Egypt for each month of the year
LETTER VII.
The Ramadán, or month of abstinence—Severity of 70
the fasting—Imposing effect of the night-call to
prayer by the Mueddins—Meals at night during the
Ramadán—Oppressive heat, and annoyance
occasioned by insects and vermin—Flies,
musquitoes, bugs, fleas, rats, lizards, spiders,
scorpions—Extraordinary storm of wind—Unusual
rise of the Nile—Murrain among the cattle
LETTER VIII.
Danger in travelling through the streets of 76
Cairo—Prejudice against Europeans, and
oppressive treatment of Christians and
Jews—Procession of the Mahmal, preparatory to
the departure of the great caravan of pilgrims
for Mekkah—Origin of the ceremony of the Mahmal
LETTER IX.
General appearance of Cairo—Narrowness of the 81
‘shárës,’ or great thoroughfare-streets, and
inconveniences of transit through them—Costume
of the inhabitants, as seen in the
streets—Shops—‘Darbs,’ or by-streets—‘Sooks,’ or
markets—Kháns—Khán
El-Khaleelee—‘Wekáleh-el-Gellábeh,’ or market of
the slave-merchants—Quarters of the Jews,
Greeks, Copts, and Franks—Vacant spaces, lakes,
cemeteries, and gardens of the
city—‘El-Khaleeg,’ the canal which traverses the
city—General description of the mosques
LETTER X.
Difficulty experienced by Europeans of obtaining 91
access to the interiors of the principal
mosques—Mosque of the Hasaneyn—Custom of taking
off the shoes or slippers—El-Záme-el-Azhar, or
‘the splendid mosque’—Paupers supported in the
mosques—Variety of scenes presented by
worshippers, lecturers, and students—Mosque of
Mohammed Bey—Ruinous state of the mosque of the
Khaleefeh El-Hákim
LETTER XI.
Collegiate mosque called Barkookeeyeh—Tomb, 97
mosque, and hospital of the Sultán
Kalá-oon—State and treatment of the lunatics
confined in the máristán, or hospital—Anecdotes
concerning the lunatics—Mosques of the Sultán
El-Ghóree, the Sultán El-Mu-eiyad, and the
Sultán Hasan—Mosque of Ibn-Tooloon—Ruined castle
or palace called Kal’at-el-Kebsh, or Castle of
the Ram—Sebeels, or public fountains—Hods, or
watering-places for beasts of burden—Hammáms, or
public baths—Kahwehs, or coffee-shops
LETTER XII.
Citadel of Cairo—Ruins of the old palace called 108
Kasr Yoosuf, or Deewán Yoosuf—Remarkable view of
Cairo from the edge of the hill on which are the
remains of ‘the house of Yoosuf
Saláh-ed-Deen’—The celebrated well of Yoosuf
Saláh-ed-Deen—Mount Mukattam—Cemeteries—Lakes
and gardens—Aqueduct by which the water of the
Nile is conveyed to the citadel—Island of
Er-Ródah, or ‘island of the garden’—Town of Masr
el-’Ateekah—Mosque of ’Amr—Kasr esh-Shema, an
old Roman fortress—Town of El-Geezeh—Shubra, the
favourite country residence of the Pasha—Site of
Heliopolis—Village of El-Khánkeh
LETTER XIII.
Various noises made in “the haunted house” by the 119
supposed ’efreet—Appearances and proceedings of
the pretended spirit—is shot at by one of the
servants
LETTER XIV.
Visits to some of the principal hareems—Necessity 124
of riding the high ass in paying visits to the
high hareems—Hareem apartments—Costume of the
Turkish ladies—Ceremonial observance—Use of the
Turkish and Arabic languages—Manners and customs
of the ladies of the East—Fountains and
baths—Ceremony of re-attiring and taking leave
LETTER XV.
The “haunted house”—Climate of Egypt—State of the 131
poor—Respect paid to the mother of a family—The
wife—Preparation of food and manner of
eating—Eastern etiquette—Dinner
arrangements—Sacredness of the hareem, and
respect paid to females—Usage of marrying
without having seen the future wife
LETTER XVI.
Treatment of slaves in Egypt—Dancing and 139
singing—Influence and power of wives among the
higher classes, and tyranny of husbands among
the lower classes—Employments of females in the
hareem—Beauty of the embroidery executed by
them—Can seldom read and write
LETTER XVII.
Plague in Egypt—Means used to ascertain whether 144
the disease be contagious or not—Enforcement of
quarantine—Egypt visited by pestilence, murrain,
and locusts—Extravagance of marriage
festivities—Fondness of the Egyptians for
gardens and water—Extreme heat
LETTER XVIII.
Distress exhibited by the females of the hareem of 149
a Turkish grandee, in consequence of his
imprisonment—Fear of the ‘evil eye’—Interest
which the ladies of the hareem take in
politics—Courteous manners of the chief ladies,
and dress and ornaments worn by them—Large
serpent—Serpent-charmers—Intended repairs of
Cairo—An instance of pretended death and burial.
LETTER XIX.
Visit to the hareem of Mohammad ’Alee—Decorations 156
of the rooms and splendour of the
furniture—Reception by the wives of the
Pasha—Dinner, dinner-arrangements, and courtesy
displayed by the chief ladies—Number of
beautiful women in the hareem of Mohammad
’Alee—Description of the dress worn by the
Turkish ladies in Egypt
LETTER XX.
Etiquette of the hareems as to order and 164
precedence—Arrangement of the apartments, and
doorkeepers—Facility of admission to the houses
of grandees, as distinct from the
hareems—Turkish etiquette and French
politeness—Organization of the hareems—Modesty
of the females—Prejudices against
Christianity—Maternal tenderness, and
superstitions of the ‘evil eye,’—Uncouth dresses
worn by the females in winter—Climate in winter,
and storm of thunder and rain
LETTER XXI.
Visit to the eldest daughter of Mohammad 172
’Alee—Affability of the reception, company
present, and general ceremonial of visiting—Her
Highness’s pipes—Bridal processions among the
middle classes—Ignominious punishment of four
lawyers—Circumstances connected with the early
marriage of females
LETTER XXII.
Treatment of females in the hareems—Cruelty 178
practised by the middle and lower
orders—Missionary Society in Cairo—Instances of
cruel treatment of wives, children and slaves
Muslim ceremonies with respect to the dead—hired
mourners, &c.—Cemeteries and tombs—Tombs of the
family of Mohammed ’Alee
LETTER XXIII.
Visit to the pyramids—Approach to the pyramids, 186
and inadequate idea of their dimensions—Tombs
occupied as dwellings—Circumstances connected
with Mr. Lane’s visit to the pyramids in
1825—Guards and attendants at the present
visit—Description of the Great Pyramid—Dr.
Lepsius’s account of the mode of
construction—Present state of the exterior of
the Great Pyramid—View from the top—Dangers to
which visitors to the pyramids are exposed
LETTER XXIV.
Description of the interior of the Great 201
Pyramid—Opinions concerning it
LETTER XXV.
Description of the Second Pyramid—The Third 213
Pyramid—Other Pyramids—The Great Sphinx—Bedawees
LETTER XXVI.
Performances of the celebrated magician of the 219
city of Cairo
LETTER XXVII.
Description of the baths for females in the city 225
of Cairo—Arrangement of the apartments, and
appearance of the females—Operations of the bath
LETTER XXVIII.
Wives of Mohammad ’Alee—Visit to his hareem in the 228
citadel—Apartments and reception—Ceremony on
quitting this hareem—Visit to the hareem of
Habeeb Efendee—Courteous behaviour of his wife
and daughters, and political conversation with
them—Mrs. Damer’s “Tour”
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE
ENGLISHWOMAN IN EGYPT.
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LETTER I.
Alexandria, July, 1842.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
The blessing of going into port, at the conclusion of a first long
voyage, awakens feelings so deep and so lasting, that it must form a
striking era in the life of every traveller. Eagerly, during a long
morning, did I and my children strain our eyes as the low uninteresting
coast of Egypt spread before our view, that we might catch the first
glimpse of one or more of those monuments of which we had hitherto only
heard or read. The first object which met our view was the Arab Tower,
which stands on a little elevation; and shortly after, the new
lighthouse on the peninsula of the Pharos, and the Pasha’s army of
windmills, showed our near approach to Alexandria, and the Pillar
(commonly called Pompey’s) seemed to rise from the bay.
The coast presents to the Mediterranean a long sandy flat, bearing
throughout a most desolate aspect, and in no part more so than in the
neighbourhood of Alexandria. To the west of this town we see nothing but
a tract of yellowish calcareous rock and sand, with here and there a few
stunted palm-trees, which diversify but little the dreary prospect.
The old or western harbour (anciently called Eunostus Portus) is deeper
and more secure than the new harbour (which is called Magnus Portus).
The former, which was once exclusively appropriated to the vessels of
the Muslims, is now open to the ships of all nations; and the latter,
which was “the harbour of the infidels,” is almost deserted. The
entrance of the old harbour is rendered difficult by reefs of rocks,
leaving three natural passages, of which the central has the greatest
depth of water. The rocks occasion a most unpleasant swell, from which
we all suffered, but I especially; and I cannot describe how thankfully
I stepped on shore, having passed the smooth water of the harbour. Here
already I see so much upon which to remark, that I must indulge myself
by writing two or three letters before our arrival in Cairo, where the
state of _Arabian_ society being unaltered by European innovations, I
hope to observe much that will interest you with respect to the
condition of the native female society. I do not mean to give you many
remarks on the manners and customs of the male portion of the people, my
brother having written so full a description of them, the correctness of
which has been attested by numerous persons, who cannot be suspected (as
his sister might be) of undue partiality.
To tell you of our landing, of the various and violent contentions of
the Arab boatmen for the conveyance of our party, of our really polite
reception at the customhouse, and of our thankfulness when enjoying the
quiet of our hotel, would be to detain you from subjects far more
interesting; but I long to describe the people by whom we were
surrounded, and the noisy crowded streets and lanes through which we
passed. The streets, until we arrived at the part of the town inhabited
by Franks, were so narrow that it was extremely formidable to meet any
thing on our way. They are miserably close, and for the purpose of
shade, the inhabitants have in many cases thrown matting from roof to
roof, extending across the street, with here and there a small aperture
to admit light; but the edges of these apertures are generally broken,
and the torn matting hanging down: in short, the whole appearance is
gloomy and wretched. I ought not, however, to complain of the narrowness
of the streets, for where the sun is not excluded by matting, the deep
shade produced by the manner in which the houses are constructed, is
most welcome in this sunny land; and, indeed, when we arrived at the
Frank part of the town, which is in appearance almost European, and
where a wide street and a fine open square, form a singular contrast to
the Arab part of the town, we scarcely congratulated ourselves; for the
heat was intense, and we hastened to our hotel, and gratefully enjoyed
the breeze which played through the apartments. I hear that many persons
prefer the climate of Alexandria to that of Cairo, and pronounce it to
be more salubrious; but a Caireen tells me that their opinion is
false—that it is certainly cooler, but that the air is extremely damp,
and although the inhabitants generally enjoy a sea-breeze, that luxury
involves some discomfort.
But I must tell you of the people; for there appeared to my first view
none but dignified grandees, in every variety of costume, and miserable
beggars, so closely assembled in the narrow streets, that it seemed as
though they had congregated on the occasion of some public festival. On
examining more closely, however, I found many gradations in the style of
dress of the middle and higher classes; but the manner of the Eastern
(even that of the well-clothed servant) is so distinguished, and their
carriage is so superior, that a European glancing for the first time at
their picturesque costume, and observing their general bearing, may be
perfectly at a loss as to what may be their position in society.
I believe that I have already seen persons of almost every country
bordering on the Mediterranean, and I can convey but a very imperfect
idea of such a scene. The contrast between the rich and gaudy habits of
the higher classes, and the wretched clothing of the barefooted poor,
while many children of a large growth are perfectly in a state of
nudity, produced a most remarkable effect. The number of persons nearly
or entirely blind, and especially the aged blind, affected us
exceedingly, but we rejoiced in the evident consideration they received
from all who had occasion to make room for them to pass. I should
imagine that all who have visited this country have remarked the decided
respect which is shown to those who are superior in years; and that this
respect is naturally rendered to the beggar as well as to the prince. In
fact, the people are educated in the belief that there is honour in the
“hoary head,” and this glorious sentiment strengthens with their
strength, and beautifully influences their conduct.
Many of the poor little infants called forth painfully my sympathy:
their heads drooped languidly; and their listless, emaciated limbs
showed too plainly that their little race was nearly run; while the
evident tenderness of their mothers made me grieved to think what they
might be called on to endure. You will naturally infer that I expect few
children to pass the season of infancy, and you will conclude justly;
for I cannot look at these little creatures, and suppose that they will
survive what is here the most trying time, the season of dentition. I
may have been unfortunate; for among the numerous infants we have
passed, I have only seen two who were able to hold their heads in an
erect position, and, indeed, of those past infancy, most were very
wretched-looking children. Over their dark complexions there is white
leprous hue, and they have a quiet melancholy manner, and an air of
patient endurance, which affected me sensibly.
It is sad to see the evident extreme poverty of the lower orders; and
the idle, lounging manner of the working class surprised me: and yet
when called on to labour, I am informed that no people work so heartily,
and so patiently. I rather think they are very like their good camels in
disposition, with the exception that the latter scold often if an
attempt be made to overload them, and in some cases will not rise from
their knees until relieved of part of their burden, while the Arabs
really suffer themselves to be built up with loads as though they had no
more sense of oppression than a truck or a wheelbarrow. The Arab groom,
too, will run by the side of his master’s horse for as many hours as he
requires his attendance without a murmur. The physical strength of these
people is most extraordinary. I had an opportunity of remarking this
during the removal of our luggage from the boat.
The windows of our hotel command a view of the great square, and I can
scarcely describe to you the picturesque attraction of the scene. Among
the various peculiarities of dress, feature, and complexion, which
characterize the natives of Africa and the East, none are more striking
than those which distinguish the noble and hardy western Bedawee,
enveloped as he is in his ample woollen shirt, or hooded cloak, and
literally clothed suitably for a Russian winter. You will believe that
my attention has been directed to the veiled women, exhibiting in their
dull disguise no other attraction than a degree of stateliness in their
carriage, and a remarkable beauty in their large dark eyes, which,
besides being sufficiently distinguished by nature, are rendered more
conspicuous by the black border of kohl round the lashes, and by the
concealment of the rest of the features. The camel-drivers’ cries of
“O’a,” “Guarda,” and “Sákin,”[1] resound every where, and at every
moment, therefore, you may imagine the noise and confusion in the
streets.
Footnote 1:
“Take care,” in Arabic, Italian, and Turkish.
In the open space before the hotel, there are long trains of camels
laden with water-skins, or with bales of merchandise, winding slowly and
cautiously along even in this wide place, while their noiseless tread,
and their dignified (I might almost say affected) walk, at once
distinguishes them from all other beasts of burden.
I must not omit mentioning the shops of Alexandria, for they resemble
cupboards rather than rooms; and this I understand to be the case in
most Turkish and Arabic cities. A raised seat of brick or stone about
three feet high, and the same or more in width, extends along each side
of the street, and upon this the tradesman sits before his shop, either
smoking or at work. It is really amusing to see how easily they appear
to gain their livelihood: the fact is, that they are an exceedingly
contented people, and there is much of real philosophy in their
conclusions. They are seldom disposed, when working on their own
account, to labour for more than enough, and have the quality, so rarely
found in Europe, of considering that enough is as desirable as
abundance: therefore they are happy, and “their best riches, ignorance
of wealth.” I have observed, at corners of the streets, or wherever else
there was sufficient space, groups of men and women seated on the
ground, with baskets before them containing bread and vegetables for
sale.
The quarter occupied by the Europeans is the southeastern part of the
town, by the shore of the new harbour. This situation I conclude was
chosen for the convenience of landing and shipping their merchandise;
but now that the old harbour is open to their vessels, the situation is
not so advantageous for them. On the east side of the great square is a
large building called the New Wekáleh (by the Europeans Occále), for the
reception of merchants and others, on the shore of the new harbour. It
surrounds a spacious square court; and the ground-floor of the building
consists of magazines towards the court, and shops and the entrances of
the dwellings towards the exterior.
My brother has given me a piece of information with regard to the
present Pharos, which you shall receive in his own words:—
“The modern Pharos is a poor successor of the ancient building, erected
by Sostratus Cnidius, from which it derives its name; though from a
distance it has rather an imposing appearance. Several Arab historians
mention the telescopic mirror of metal which was placed at the summit of
the ancient Pharos. In this mirror, vessels might be discerned at sea at
a very great distance. El-Makreezee[2] informs us that the Greeks, being
desirous of effecting the destruction of the Pharos, or of obtaining
possession of the wonderful mirror, employed a deep stratagem. One of
their countrymen repaired to the sovereign of the Arabs, El-Weleed the
son of ’Abd-el-Melik, and professed himself a convert to the faith of
El-Islám, pretending that he had fled from his king, who would have put
him to death. He informed the prince that he had acquired, from certain
books in his possession, the art of discovering where treasures were
concealed in the earth, and had thus ascertained that there was a
valuable treasure, consisting of money and jewels, deposited beneath the
foundation of the Pharos of Alexandria. The prince, deceived by this
artful tale, sent a number of workmen with his crafty adviser to pull
down the Pharos; and when more than half the building had been
destroyed, the Greek made his escape to his own country, and his
artifice thus became manifest. The same author relates that part of the
Pharos was thrown down by an earthquake, in the year of the Flight 177
(A. D. 793–4); that Ahmad Ibn-Tooloon surmounted it with a dome of wood;
and that an inscription upon a plate of lead was found upon the northern
side, buried in the earth, written in ancient Greek characters, every
letter of which was a cubit in height, and a span in breadth. This was
perhaps the inscription placed by the original architect, and which,
according to Strabo, was to this effect—‘Sostratus Cnidius, the son of
Dexiphanes, to the protecting gods, for the sake of the mariners.’ It is
also related by Es-Sooyootee,[3] that the inhabitants of Alexandria
likewise made use of the mirror above mentioned to burn the vessels of
their enemies, by directing it so as to reflect the concentrated rays of
the sun upon them.”
Footnote 2:
El-Makreezee flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Footnote 3:
A celebrated Arab theologian and historian, so called from his
birth-place Usyoot, or Suyoot (commonly pronounced Asyoot), in Upper
Egypt.
The causeway of stone which connects the fort and lighthouse with the
peninsula of Pharos, is now called Ródat-et-Teen (or the Garden of the
Fig), on account of a few fig-trees growing there. Its southwestern
extremity is called Rás-et-Teen (or the Cape of the Fig). Upon this
rocky peninsula are a palace of the Pasha, and some other buildings,
with the burial-ground of the Muslims, adjacent to the town.
I must endeavour in my next letter to give you a brief general account
of the town, and must close this by remarking on the affecting sound of
the Mueddin’s chant or Muslim call to prayer. I should be grieved to
think that we are impressed by the solemnity of their sonorous voices,
simply because we hear them for the first time; and trust we may always
feel a mixture of pity and admiration when we believe our
fellow-creatures to be in earnest in the service of God, however
mistaken their opinions. The sight of the Muslim engaged in his
devotions I think most interesting; and it cannot fail, I should hope,
in impressing the beholder with some degree of veneration. The attitudes
are peculiarly striking and expressive; and the solemn demeanour of the
worshipper, who, even in the busy market-place, appears wholly
abstracted from the concerns of the world, is very remarkable. The
practice of praying in a public place is so general in the East, and
attracts so little notice on the part of Muslims, that we must be
charitable, and must not regard it as a result of hypocrisy or
ostentation.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTER II.
Alexandria, July, 1842.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
We find little to interest us in this place, excepting by association
with bygone times; therefore our stay will not be long. But I will give
you concisely an account of all that has excited our curiosity.
I am not disappointed in Alexandria (or, as it is called by the natives,
El-Iskendereeyeh), for I did not imagine it could possess many
attractions. It is built upon a narrow neck of land, which unites the
peninsula of Pharos to the continent, and thus forms a double harbour,
as did anciently the causeway, which, from its length of seven stadia,
was called the Heptastadium.
The ground which is occupied by the modern town has been chiefly formed
by a gradual deposit of sand on each side of the Heptastadium; and the
present situation is more advantageous for a commercial city than the
ancient site. The houses are generally built of white calcareous stone,
with a profusion of mortar and plaster. Some have the foundation walls
only of stone, and the superstructure of brick. They generally have
plain or projecting windows of wooden lattice-work; but the windows of
some houses, viz., those of Europeans, the palaces of the Pasha, the
Governor of Alexandria, and a few others, are of glass. The roofs are
flat and covered with cement. There is little to admire in the interior
architecture of the houses, excepting that they have a substantial
appearance. Many ancient columns of granite and marble have been used in
the construction of the mosques and private dwellings.
The water here is far from good; the inhabitants receive their supply
from the cisterns under the site of the ancient city (of which I must
tell you by and by). These are filled by subterranean aqueducts from the
canal during the time of the greatest height of the Nile; but in
consequence of the saline nature of the soil through which it passes
from the river, the water is not good. Almost every house has its
cistern, which is filled by means of skins borne by camels or asses; and
there are many wells of brackish water in the town.
As the northern coast of Egypt has no harbour, excepting those of
Alexandria, it is a place of considerable importance as the emporium and
key of Egypt; but otherwise it appears to me in no respect a desirable
residence, and around it nothing but sea and desert meets the eye,
excepting here and there the house of a rich man, and scattered in every
direction extensive mounds of rubbish. Ancient writers have extolled the
salubrity of the air of Alexandria. This quality of the air was
attributed, according to Strabo, to the almost insular situation of the
city, the sea being on one side, and the lake Mareotis on the other. The
_insalubrity_ of the climate, of later years, has been regarded as the
result of the conversion of the lake into a salt marsh. The English
army, in 1801, made a cut by which the water of the sea was admitted
from the lake of Aboo-Keer into the bed of the lake Mareotis; and the
operation was repeated by Mohammed ’Alee in 1803, and again by the
English in 1807: on each occasion, as you will have supposed, military
policy dictated the measure; and as soon as the object in view had been
attained, the gap was speedily closed, as it cut off the supply of fresh
water from Alexandria by interrupting the course of the canal. While the
communication between the two lakes remained open, it was not found that
the climate of Alexandria was at all improved; and the evaporation of
the waters of the lake Mareotis afterwards must have had a pernicious
effect. The damp and rain during the winter here, and the heavy dew at
night throughout the year, have a particularly baneful influence. Cases
of fever are very general; and it is always observed that this town is
one of the places where the plague makes its appearance many days
earlier than in the interior of Egypt. With all these objections to
Alexandria as a place of residence, it is wonderful that any persons
should prefer it, and consider the climate more agreeable than that of
the valley of the Nile, which all allow to be so salubrious.
There is a series of telegraphs from Alexandria to the metropolis, a
distance of more than a hundred and twenty British miles. The towers
composing this series are nineteen in number; the first is on the
peninsula of Pharos, and the last in the citadel of Cairo.
The wall which surrounds the site of the old Arab city was rebuilt not
many years since. This work was commenced in 1811. Mohammed ’Alee,
fearing another invasion of the French, deemed it necessary to
strengthen this place; for the wall I have mentioned defends the town on
the land side, and surrounds the cisterns from which the inhabitants
derive their supply of fresh water. The wall has four gates, and I
cannot describe to you the complete scene of desolation which presented
itself on entering the enclosure by that gate, which is nearest to the
modern town, the “sea-gate;” indeed, it can scarcely be conceived: for
mounds of rubbish and drifted sand occupy nearly the whole site of the
ancient city. Within the area surrounded by the present wall, besides
some monuments of the ancient city, are two convents and a synagogue,
several groups of houses and huts, with a few walled gardens containing
chiefly palm-trees.
You will think it strange when I tell you that there are also two lofty
hills of rubbish, each of which is surmounted by a fort, commanding an
extensive view. It appears to me most extraordinary that any persons
should choose such a foundation; but I understand it is far from
remarkable, and that these accidental eminences are improved to
advantage in this flat country, the face of which in a course of years
has undergone important changes, from the habit of the people of leaving
crumbling ruins to accumulate. Here the line of the principal street can
be traced, extending in a straight direction from the shore of the old
harbour to the Gate of Resheed,[4] which is at the eastern extremity of
the enclosure; and the direction of the other great street, which
crossed the former at right angles, is observable.
Footnote 4:
Resheed is the name of the town which the English call Rosetta.
It must have been an extensive city, but it is impossible to mark its
precise limits. Certainly its remains alone convey an idea of its having
been a flourishing town, and considerably more important than the Arab
city which succeeded it.
Desiring to see the obelisks before the heat of the day, we set out
early, and having passed the great square, we entered the field of
ruins, and found a number of peasants loitering among miserable huts,
while a few children, in a state of nudity, and extremely unsightly in
form, were standing or sitting in the entrances of their dwellings. I
was grieved to see that the bodies of these poor little children were
distended to a most unnatural size; while their limbs, which were very
thin and small, appeared, from the contrast, to be sadly emaciated.
Among the mounds we observed the mouths of some of the ancient cisterns;
each, with few exceptions, having the hollowed marble base of an ancient
column placed over it. The cisterns seem to have extended under a great
part of the ancient city; and there remain a sufficient number of them
open and in good repair for the supply of the modern town. They have
arched or vaulted roofs, which are supported by columns or by square
pillars, and some of them have two or three ranges of pillars and
arches, one above another, and are very extensive.
We saw little worthy of remark until we reached the obelisks, which are
situated at an angle of the enclosure, almost close to the shore of the
new harbour; I mean those obelisks called Cleopatra’s Needles. Each is
composed of a single block of red granite, nearly seventy feet in
length, and seven feet and a half wide at the base. And here I wondered,
as so many have done before me, that the ancient Egyptians contrived to
raise such solid masses, and concluded that their knowledge of
machinery, of which they have left such extraordinary proofs, must have
been remarkable indeed.
Three lines of hieroglyphics adorn each of the four faces of either
monument. My brother tells me that the central line bears the title and
name of Thothmos the Third, who appears, from strong evidence, to have
reigned shortly before the departure of the Israelites from Egypt: the
lateral lines were sculptured at a later period; for they bear the name
of Rameses the Great, or Sesostris. The inscriptions near the base of
the erect obelisk seemed nearly obliterated, and the prostrate one is so
encumbered with rubbish, that much of it is concealed. Pliny relates
that Rameses erected four obelisks at Heliopolis: those of Alexandria
are perhaps two of the four thus alluded to. Their antiquity being so
much greater than that of Alexandria, suggests the probability of their
having been taken from Heliopolis to adorn a temple or palace in the new
city. The fact of the name of Rameses the Great being sculptured on them
may have given rise to the tradition that they were _erected_ by that
king. An adjacent fort occupies the site of an old tower which belonged
to the former wall (that is, to the _old_ wall of the _Arab_ city), and
which was called by European travellers “the Tower of the Romans;” as it
was apparently of Roman origin. Near this, standing on a mound of
rubbish, we saw the shore of the new harbour, behind the wall on the
left of the fort.
When the British army was in Alexandria in 1801, operations were
commenced for transporting the fallen obelisk to England; but the
commander-in-chief refusing to sanction the undertaking, it was
abandoned, and nothing is said of its being resumed, although Mohammed
’Alee offered the monument to us some years ago.
After viewing the obelisks, we thankfully turned homewards, for the sun
had risen, and the heat became intense.
Not far from the eastern gate (perhaps two miles and a half) is the
field of the memorable battle of the 21st of March, 1801, in which Sir
Ralph Abercrombie, who commanded our victorious army, received his
mortal wound. At the spot where the battle raged most furiously, by the
sea-shore, is a quadrangular enclosure, surrounded by substantial, but
now ruined walls, constructed of calcareous stone and large bricks, in
distinct layers, like many other Roman buildings. The ruin is called
Kasr-el-Káyasireh (or the Pavilion, or Palace, of the Cæsars). It marks
the site of a small town, which received the name of Nicopolis, in
commemoration of a famous victory obtained there by Octavius Cæsar over
Antony.
The pillar called Pompey’s is undoubtedly a magnificent monument. The
shaft of the column is a single block of red granite, sixty-eight feet
in height, and nine feet in diameter at the bottom, according to my
brother’s measurement. The capital is a block of the same kind of stone,
and is ten feet high. The base, plinth, and pedestal are likewise of red
granite, and each is a single block. The combined length of these three
pieces is seventeen feet. The total height of this superb monument is
therefore ninety-five feet; and the substructure, which is partly
modern, is four feet in height. The shaft is beautifully wrought, but
sadly disfigured by numerous names inscribed in very large characters,
with black paint. They have mostly been written by persons who have
ascended to the summit. This they have contrived by flying a large paper
kite, and causing it to descend so that the cord rested on the top of
the capital; by these means, they succeeded in drawing a stout rope over
it; and having accomplished this (to use the naval term) they easily
“rigged shrouds,” by which to ascend. This exploit has been performed
several times, generally by naval officers, who have caused the name of
their ship to be painted on the shaft.
Among the adventurers, an English lady once ascended to the summit.
There is a Greek inscription on the pedestal, but it can only be faintly
seen when the rays of the sun fall obliquely upon the surface of the
stone. Every traveller who examined the Pillar since the time of Pococke
believed the inscription to be entirely obliterated, until Colonel
Squire again discovered it. That gentleman with Mr. Hamilton and Colonel
Leake deciphered (with the exception of a few characters) the lines,
four in number, which record the dedication, by a “Prefect of Egypt”
(whose name is almost illegible), to the “most revered Emperor, the
protecting divinity of Alexandria, Diocletian the Invincible.” The name
of the “Prefect” also has since been deciphered by Sir Gardner
Wilkinson—it is Publius. This inscription certainly proves that the
column, or the building in which it stood, was _dedicated_ to the Roman
emperor whose name is thus recorded, but not that the column was
_erected_ in honour of that individual, any more than the lateral lines
on the obelisks which I have described prove that they were erected in
the reign of Sesostris.
I may here briefly give you the tradition respecting the burning of the
Alexandrian library (deriving my information from my brother), which
took place in the time of ’Omar, as it is connected with the history of
the great pillar. ’Abd-el-Lateef and El-Makreezee affirm, that this
pillar originally belonged to a magnificent building, containing a
library, which ’Amr, the Arab general, burned by the command of ’Omar. A
particular account of the burning of this library is given by
Abu-l-Faraj; but the statement of that author has been disbelieved,
because the story is related by few other writers; yet why should they
record what they considered an event of scarcely any importance? It is
evident from the slight manner in which ’Abd-el-Lateef and El-Makreezee
mention the fact, that they regarded it as a very unimportant
occurrence. They allude to it merely as connected with the history of
the great Pillar. The former says, “Here was the library which ’Amr
Ibn-el-’A’s burned by permission of ’Omar.” El-Makreezee says, “The
Pillar is of a red speckled stone; hard and flinty. There were around it
about four hundred columns which Karaja, Governor of Alexandria in the
time of the Sultán Saláh-ed-Deen Yoosuf Ibn-Eiyoob (called by Europeans
“Saladin”), broke, and threw them into the sea, near the shore, to
prevent the vessels of an enemy from approaching the walls of the city.
It is said (he adds) that this pillar is one of those which stood in the
portico of Aristotle, who there taught philosophy; and that this academy
contained a library, which ’Amr Ibn-el-’A’s burned by direction of
’Omar.” The Arab General ’Amr, having taken Alexandria, was solicited by
one Johannes, surnamed “the Grammarian,” to spare the library above
mentioned, and to suffer it to remain in the possession of its former
owners. ’Amr, willing to oblige the philosopher, wrote to his sovereign,
desiring to know his pleasure respecting these books, and received the
following answer:—“As to the books which you have mentioned, if they
contain what is agreeable with the book of God, in the book of God is
sufficient without them; and if they contain what is contrary to the
book of God, there is no need of them; so give orders for their
destruction.” They were accordingly distributed about the city, to be
used for heating the baths, and in the space of six months they were
consumed. “Hear what happened,” writes Abu-l-Faraj, “and wonder!” The
author here quoted does _certainly_ speak of this event as one of
lamentable importance; but he was a _Christian_ writer. The _Muslims_,
though they love and encourage many branches of literature, generally
imagine that the books of the Christians are useless, or of an evil
tendency.
I must now leave Alexandria and its environs, saying a few words
respecting the ancient Necropolis, or “City of the Dead,” which I have
_not_ seen, being satisfied with my brother’s account of it, and being
anxious to proceed to Cairo.
The name of Necropolis has been given to a tract of nearly two miles in
length, on the southwest of the site of the ancient city, between the
old harbour and the bed of the Lake Mareotis. The sepulchres are all
excavated in the rock, which is calcareous, or rather soft. Those my
brother saw were small and rudely cut, without painting or any other
decorations. One of the catacombs is very spacious. It is the only one
that is well worthy of being examined. The principal chamber is
described as being of a circular form; and the roof is excavated like
the interior of a dome. Around it are three recesses, which were
doubtless receptacles for mummies; and around each of these are three
troughs cut in the rock, designed to serve as sarcophagi. In other
chambers are similar receptacles for the dead. The entrance of the
principal, or circular, apartment being ornamented with pilasters and a
pediment, it is evident that the period of the formation of the catacomb
was posterior to the founding of Alexandria. Along the shore of the
harbour are many other excavations, but of small dimensions, which are
also sepulchres. Many of them, being partly below the level of the sea,
are more or less filled with water; the part of the rock which
intervened having crumbled away, and left the interior exposed to the
waves. Some of these have been called “the baths of Cleopatra,” though
evidently sepulchres like the rest.
And now, if my account of Alexandria and its monuments has been too
brief, I must plead as my apology, my anxiety to pursue our route; but I
must add, that although the modern Alexandria is the successor of one of
the most illustrious cities of ancient times, it disappoints me, and
occasions only melancholy reflections.
Truly history confers a deep interest on this spot, once the chief seat
of Egyptian learning, the theatre of many wars and bloody tragedies, the
scene of the martyrdom of St. Mark, the birth-place and residence of
many of the most eminent fathers of the church, and the hot-bed of
schisms and heresies. But it is only in retrospect we find that on which
our minds can rest, and which can give rise to reflections which may be
pursued to advantage.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
LETTER III.
Cairo, July, 1842.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
To-day we have arrived with thankful hearts at Cairo, our voyages by sea
and by river completed for a time.
On leaving Alexandria, we engaged an iron track-boat, used chiefly for
the conveyance of travellers on their way to India from Alexandria, by
the canal called the Mahmoodeeyeh, to the Nile. The boat was very large,
containing two large cabins, the foremost of which was furnished with
benches and tables, and apparently clean; and being drawn by four
horses, passed so rapidly along, that we enjoyed, from the current of
air, a feeling of freshness, which led us at nightfall into a grievous
mistake; for we laid down, and expected rest without arranging our
musquito-curtains. Those who had fitted up the boat had covered the wide
benches with carpet. Imagine _such_ a couch in _such_ a latitude! we
were positively covered by fleas, and swarmed by black beetles, and the
latter of such a growth as are never seen in England. Too late we
repented of our error, and I should strongly recommend any person
travelling in Egypt to sleep under musquito-curtains winter and summer.
There is certainly a consciousness of heat and want of air, for perhaps
a quarter of an hour after the curtain is closely tucked in, but what is
that compared to the constant attacks of vermin of an extraordinary
variety, to which the traveller in the East is subject? Our first night
in the track-boat, without musquito-curtains, will not be easily
forgotten.[5]
Footnote 5:
Since I wrote the above, the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
Company have, I believe, undertaken the conveyance of travellers from
Alexandria to Suez. Be this as it may, it is due to the Company to
say, that our voyage from England to Egypt was rendered as pleasant as
a splendid vessel, excellent attendance, and every desirable
accommodation could make it; and the manner in which travellers are
brought through Egypt, on their way to India, is now, I am told, as
comfortable as any reasonable person could desire.