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The Leave Area
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It was a master mind that first conceived the idea of sending tired
soldiers away from the shattered havoc of war and the incessant
routine of camp life, to find rest and recreation. The most beautiful
and historic places in France, left untouched by battle’s fire, were
selected and opened as Leave Areas. Had the Young Men’s Christian
Association done no other bit for the American Expeditionary Forces
except equip and maintain these Leave Areas in France, it still would
have done a colossal piece of work, fully justifying its operations in
France. It was a work for which thousands and thousands of soldiers
are deeply grateful. Whatever criticism or prejudice relative to the
Young Men’s Christian Association was in the minds of the soldiers
as they entered the Leave Area, they went away its most enthusiastic
supporters. There, more than anywhere else in France, perhaps, they had
opportunity to see below the sordid and selfish spirits of individuals
who might unfortunately represent it, to the heart of the Association
itself. They could realize there that the fundamental principles of the
organization were right, no matter how poorly interpreted through its
workers.
The first of these Leave Areas to be opened was at Aix-les-Bains in
the region of the Savoie. Savoie itself is one of the most pleasantly
pastoral spots in Europe. The country with its rugged mountains often
snow-clad; its quiet little river-villages everywhere; its Old World
customs, original and unique, suggested peace and rest. It was so near
many of the interesting things that men had read about in history and
geography, but never, for the most part, expected to see—so full of
historic associations and traditions that one could forget for the time
the dead cities, villages, and men strewn over other parts of France.
Savoie is wonderfully exhilarating with its mountain air, beautiful
lakes and medicinal waters of world-wide fame. Everywhere the eyes
roamed, they rested upon mountains. There were the Swiss Alps just
forty miles to the East, the Italian Alps the same distance toward
the South, and the French Alps close at hand in every direction. Even
before men left the trains or “side-door Pullmans,” as they nicknamed
the freight cars in which they so often rode, they were filled with
the wonder and charm of the country into which they had come. For the
first time they were finding the _real_ France, and it was life-giving
after dwelling for so many months in those parts that were filled with
evidences of the enemy’s unspeakable crimes.
It was in this region that the first Leave Area was opened for American
soldiers in February of 1918. From that time until June, 1919, from
five to six thousand soldiers came each week for an ideal vacation. So
successful was this Leave Area region that others were opened at Nice,
and many other beautiful places of Southern France.
It was at Christmas time of 1918 that the Paris Headquarters of the
Y telegraphed Mr. Wallace, the Regional Secretary of the St. Nazaire
Area, asking for the loan of Mrs. Curtis and Mrs. Hunton for six
weeks. They were needed to open two Leave Areas for colored soldiers.
One of the demands of war on welfare workers as well as soldiers,
was that they be ready to “pack up roll” and move on short notice.
So that after seven months of service at the port, they were to be
moved. Mrs. Hunton desired to go, because for many weeks she had been
serving white soldiers almost exclusively. They treated her with
great respect and helped her to prepare and serve as colored boys had
done. As they marched away from camp, they sang for her, cheered for
her chocolate and crullers and left little tokens of affection, and
while she had served them with a warm and willing heart, always she
would be thinking, there are only three colored women in France for
all the colored soldiers, and one of them serving white soldiers. She
communicated her feelings to the understanding spirit who at that time
headed the Women’s Department of the Y work in France, and was told to
stick to her post and a change would be made as soon as possible. But
when the time really came, it was not so easy to go. It meant leaving
the thousands of men whom she had served for those months, and with
whom she had kept in constant touch although they were in the other
camps of the area. There was the lovely French family—_Monsieur et
madame, les deux tantes, la chat blanc et le bon jardin_—with whom
she had lived for seven months. She had been worshipped into feeling
a part of all their charming life. But both Y women reported to Paris
and were ordered to Aix-les-Bains for assignment. There Mrs. Curtis
was sent to Chambery and Mrs. Hunton to Challes-les-Eaux. These places
had been in operation since the preceding summer. Colored troops had
already visited there, but now they were to be sent in larger numbers
and those two resorts were to be used exclusively for them. In the
meantime, Messrs. Stevenson and Sadler were also asked to report. Mr.
Stevenson was assigned to the Challes-les-Eaux Casino, but Mr. Sadler
was unable to get release from the Chaumont region where he had so
long directed a large and important work. When we first reached the
Leave Area, and for several weeks thereafter, it was still occupied
by white troops. In January of 1918, with Mr. William Stevenson as
Director and Mrs. Hunton, Directress, at Challes-les-Eaux, and Mrs.
Curtis, Directress at Chambery, a new epoch for the colored soldiers
on leave began. There, as in other places, the colored women served
alone, endeavoring to do the work that had occupied a large staff of
white women secretaries. From time to time men arrived to help with
the work until there was a staff of five men at each place. But in the
Leave Area, more than any other place, much of the work was that for
which women are peculiarly fitted. The Chateau or Casino must be kept
clean and sweet, with cheerful decorations; appetizing menus arranged;
American dishes made familiar to French help and prompt service given;
teas, parties and hikes planned and still they must have lots of time
left in which the men could talk to them. But for nearly four months
these two women worked alone, each in her building, until finally other
women arrived and shared the service. Each week from January until late
May, a thousand to twelve hundred colored troops reached the Savoie
Leave Area, and were divided between Chambery and Challes-les-Eaux. The
men lived in the many surrounding hotels, but found the largest part of
their life and entertainment with the Young Men’s Christian Association.
[Illustration: 1. The Village of Myans with Mt. Granier. 2. Dinner
on the Grounds at Challes-les-Eaux. 3. Mr. Stevenson and Mrs. Hunton
with Staff, at Challes-les-Eaux. 4. The Chateau of the Dukes of
Savoie at Chambery.]
A brief description of Savoie, with its leave centers, will no doubt
be interesting, because in most instances, it was the one bright spot
in the soldier’s whole “overseas” life, and because so much of his
pleasure there was derived from the natural beauty of the country.
Savoie, like Alsace-Lorraine, has been a pawn in the hands of
contending peoples many times in its history. From French to Italian
and from Italian to French again—back and forth—it has passed as the
fortunes of war have dictated. With the division of the great empire
of Charlemagne, Savoie fell into Italian hands. It went to General
Berold of Saxe in 1008 and at that time was laid the foundation for
the royalty that has come down through the centuries as the House of
Savoie, and of which the present King of Italy is a member. Since
the Treaty of Turin in 1860, Savoie has been a part of France. This
frequent change of government has produced a peculiar blending of
French and Italian in architecture and life, and adds greatly to the
charm of the region.
Aix-les-Bains, not only the most important town of the area, but one of
the most famous health resorts of the world, is a striking example of
this blending. French chateaux on the mountain sides and Italian villas
by the lake, give it a charming setting. In the city itself one is
carried back many centuries by its Arch of Campanus, old Roman Baths,
Temple of Diana, Museum and the Grottoes.
This Arch of Campanus is believed to date to the third century A. D.
Older still are the Roman Baths that are supposed to have been built
one hundred and twenty-four years before Christ. This was always one
of the most interesting places to the soldiers on leave. There one
sees remains of the not very ancient methods of these ancient Romans
for bathing, and even the remains of a large swimming pool. Nothing
is more interesting in Aix-les-Bains than its Temple of Diana, built
probably about the same time as the Roman Baths and in which is housed
the museum. The foundation walls of this temple are more than twelve
feet thick, and the stones are of enormous size. In one corner of
this old Greek temple is inserted a Gothic window of interest because
of its delicate beauty and purity of style, but not a part of the
original architecture. The Grottoes, with the three springs that have
defied union, are always a source of wonder. There are to be found hot
alum, hot sulphur and cold water springs turning out over two million
gallons of water each day. With lighted candles one follows the many
windings and descents of the flowing waters. It is very hot but very
interesting. One sees the place where some engineers, two of whom were
killed, made an ineffectual effort to unite the waters of these springs.
From things ancient, we come to look at those more modern. There are
the thermal establishments that have made Aix-les-Bains world famous as
a health resort. We are told that this city, with a native population
of less than ten thousand, always had within its boundary prior to the
war, about thirty thousand visitors. The sedan chairs in which the
visitors rode about the city are as numerous as those that are moved
up and down the board-walk at Atlantic City. Many Americans frequent
Aix-les-Bains, and the soldiers were always shown the chair and bathing
apartments reserved for Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.
At Aix-les-Bains the Young Men’s Christian Association had its
activities in the Casino—one of the most luxurious and spacious places
of amusement on the Continent. With a beautiful garden on one side
and an imposing entrance on the other, this Grand Cercle, as it is
called, was the Monte Carlo of France until the war came. It has a
fine theatre, seating a thousand people; a sumptuous ball-room, grand
salon and many other rooms, beautiful with their mosaics, rich carvings
and stained glass windows. All of these were put to use for the
entertainment of the soldiers.
[Illustration: 1. Secretarial Group at Challes-les-Eaux. 2. The Lady
of Myans—“Black Madonna.” 3. The Elephants at Chambery. 4. The Cross
on Mt. Nivolet. 5. Statue Jean Jacques Rousseau at Chambery.]
Chambery is hardly less interesting than Aix-les-Bains. Surrounded by
mountains, with the cross on Nivolet dominating all the rest, with
its quaint stores, streets and houses, it is indeed picturesque. One
follows the rue de Boigne with its old arcades and beautiful stores
from the Fontaine des Elephants up to the Chateau des Ducs de Savoie.
It is an imposing structure with its monument to Joseph and Xavier
de Maistre on the stairway. The finest part of this chateau is its
chapel with its remarkable Gothic architecture, ancient windows and
fine paintings. Just across from this chateau was the Y, a charming
building, beautifully furnished and always lively with music and good
cheer. One delighted in looking on the soldiers sitting by the open
fire in its large, but home-like salon. Chambery has interesting
churches and parks. Perhaps the most interesting thing connected
with this town is the fact that for so long it was the home of Jean
Jacques Rousseau. In what Americans would call the suburbs of Chambery,
we find the home of this much persecuted poet-philosopher. It is
called “The Charmettes” and is carefully preserved with its original
furnishings. At the entrance is a French inscription which may be
translated as follows:
“Hovel by Jean-Jacques inhabited.
You remind me of his genius.
His solitude, his proudness
And his misfortunes and his folly.
To Glory and Truth
He dared to consecrate his life,
And was always persecuted
Either by himself or by envy.”
A word about the Fountain of Elephants because for the Americans
it was the center of the town. This large white monument with four
life-size bronze elephants surrounding it, is most imposing, the more
so because there is continually pouring from the mouths of these
elephants, streams of water. This unique monument is in honor of a
noted benefactor of the town—Count de Boigne—who spent many years in
the Far East. There by the fountain the little steam tram usually put
off or took on its largest number of passengers. There the American
bands played and the French folk gathered about them. One would usually
say, “Meet me at the Elephants.”
It was at the Elephants that we took the tiny tram for
Challes-les-Eaux, about three miles away. The Thermal Establishment was
inaugurated at Challes-les-Eaux in 1876, and from that time it was a
popular resort for not only were the waters wonderful for baths, but
were valuable for drink, pulverization, inhalation and gargling. One
who ever became brave enough to taste them could verily believe in all
their virtues. In addition to its many beautiful hotels, generally
clinging to hillsides, it had its Casino, too, with restaurant,
ball-room, billiard tables, reading and gaming rooms. It was here that
General Joffre rested after the Marne. It was this Casino and the five
Thermal Establishments in the midst of spacious grounds, that were
taken over for the Y and to which now so many happy memories cling.
Here as at Aix-les-Bains, the Thermal Establishments were used by the
soldiers through the morning till noon, free of all charge to them.
What a luxury they were to the tired soldier who for a long time had
known only the bathing facilities of a camp. Challes-les-Eaux was
admirably located for excursions of historical and scenic interest,
affording real wholesome rest and recreation.
As has been already emphasized elsewhere, the work of the Y folk in
the Leave Area was to see that the eight days afforded the soldiers
there, should be days full of beautiful recreation with as little of
the atmosphere of camp-life as possible. There was no “reveille” and
no “taps.” No one blew whistles to attract attention. Men ate out of
porcelain dishes and slept on real beds with soft pillows. Often men
declared that they had become so accustomed to the army bunks that they
were forced at first, each night, to rest a little while on the floor.
[Illustration: IN THE LEAVE AREA
1. By an old Chapel. 2. En route to Hautecombe Abbey. 3. Playing
Billiards. 4. On the train for Hannibal’s Pass. 5. On the Grounds at
Challes-les-Eaux.]
An extract from a report of Mr. William Stevenson to the Commanding
Colonel of the Area will give some idea as to the nature and scope
of the Y activities in the Leave Area:
“On the 17th of January, 1919, Mrs. W. A. Hunton and myself took
charge of the Casino here and began the work which, formerly for
white soldiers, had been carried on by four women and two men
secretaries. When we started, we were given the assistance of one
white (man) secretary. With his help, we carried on the work until
the 30th of February when we received another colored secretary—at
that time the white secretary who had been assisting us, was
relieved. We then had three secretaries, including myself. March
5th we received another man and March 25th two more came. April 6th
another women came and April 26th, two more women. However, Mrs.
Hunton who had started the work with me left the first of May for
Verdun and Mr. Bullock who had arrived February 30th, left April 16th
to go to America. At the close of our work, May 24th, we had seven
secretaries—four men and three women.”
“Our building was opened each morning at 8:45. A twenty-minute
religious service began at 9 A.M. and this was known as ‘Start the
Day Right Service.’ Breakfast then began and was served till about
noon. This meal consisted of one of the following meats: sausage,
ham, or chops, eggs, pancakes with molasses and butter, hot biscuits,
crullers and chocolate or coffee. All of this was sold at cost.
Refreshments—ice cream, pies, pudding, cakes and crullers with
chocolate or lemonade were on sale afternoons from four until about
5:30. Free refreshments were served three times a week at night and
always to entertainers and educators, whether from the army or the
Young Men’s Christian Association. A reception with free refreshments
was always tendered out-going troops. At many of these we served more
than a hundred men. During each of these receptions a strong moral
or patriotic talk was made by some of the secretaries, and I have
seen men go away with tears in their eyes. A special lunch, at the
cost of one franc was put up for out-going men, but men without money
were often furnished a lunch just the same as others. Every Sunday
afternoon at four o’clock we served free tea and cake assisted by the
French ladies of the village, who kindly volunteered their services.
This afternoon tea, during which there was violin and piano music,
was always crowded by the men.”
_Athletics_. Every morning from ten until twelve, athletic exercises,
indoors or outdoors (according to the weather) were conducted and
very liberally patronized. Baseball, Y ball, volley ball and tennis
were very popular; the three billiard tables were always kept busy.
Saturday was given to athletics; that is, the full day. However, men
desiring to go to the Black Madonna, Mt. St. Michael or the Cascades
were always accommodated.
_Excursions, Hikes, etc_. The following trips were taken: Sunday,
hike to the Black Madonna; about an hour and forty minutes round
trip. Monday, trip to Cat Mountain and Hannibal’s Pass, by tram
and on foot; about three hours’ hike. All day trip. Tuesday,
trip to Aix-les-Bains and Mt. Revard; all-day trip, tram and
railroad. Wednesday, Black Madonna. Thursday, hike to the Cascades
of Doria, about same distance as Black Madonna. Friday, trip
to Lake Bourget and Hautecombe Abbey; all day trip by tram and
boat. These excursions, hikes, etc., proved to be of great value
in an educational way. The men were not only anxious to get the
Aix-les-Bains Souvenir, which explained the various places and things
but a great many took notes.
_Amusements, etc_. A band concert was given two to three times each
week in the afternoon in the garden, and on the nights of the same
days a band concert and vaudeville. Entertainments—vaudeville, etc.,
sent by the Y, at the beginning twice a week; later, during May, by
the Army and the Y, two to five times each week. Movies, four to six
times each week.
_Religious, etc_. Service every Sunday morning at eleven o’clock
which a secretary, sent from Aix-les-Bains, conducted. Also a service
every Sunday evening at eight o’clock, which was conducted by the
Chaplain.
_Educational, etc_. A speaker was sent from Aix-les-Bains once a
week, who delivered a talk, illustrated or otherwise on something of
educational value. Also talks on patriotism, thrift, clean-living,
etc., were given by one of our secretaries to all out-going troops,
and each night notice of the activities of the week were given,
during which hints on clean living, conduct, etc., were given.
_Reception to Civilians_. On March 12th a reception was given the
civilians of Challes-les-Eaux. This was held in the open and the
Mayor, by pre-arrangement, made an address to the soldiers and
civilians, responses to which were made by Mrs. Hunton and your
humble servant, all of which were interpreted. On this day a band
concert was rendered by the 803rd Pioneer Infantry Band, and the
school children, who were brought in a body by their teachers, were
served refreshments.
_Photographs_. Probably five thousand francs’ worth of photographs
of the soldiers in various places and poses, were taken by special
arrangement with as many as three photographers. All photographs were
sold at cost and the demand always exceeded the supply.
_Transportation_. In order to prevent the men from arising at an
unnecessarily early hour and for the purpose of always getting them
back in time for the evening meal we chartered special trams, the
cost of which amounted to between three and four thousand francs.
This arrangement, which was put into effect in March, enabled us to
move when we desired.
_Food, etc_. Besides the secretaries, we had about thirteen French
people, in the kitchen, etc., among them being a chef, whose special
duty was to prepare pastries, ice cream, etc.
_Literature_. We had two racks made in which literature—pamphlets,
etc., were daily displayed. These were of a religious, moral,
patriotic nature and were very popular. Outgoing men were furnished
with free reading matter—magazines, etc.
_Information, etc_. We had a lady at the information desk, and a lady
in the coat room sewed on buttons and made minor repairs for the men.
All trams bearing new men were met by one of the secretaries, who
sought out the non-commissioned officers or men in charge, introduced
them to all the secretaries, and extended, through them, a hearty
welcome to all their men.
Every day when new men came in the hotels were visited at supper
time and announcements of the week’s program made while the men were
eating.
_Conduct, etc_. It was an exceedingly rare thing to hear any of the
men use immoral or profane language in the building. We co-operated
with the military police in every way possible, even requesting the
Mayor to rid the village of some immoral women. The military police
reported that they had very little trouble with our men, and the
Mayor’s letter, together with others from the various hotel-keepers,
etc., is strong evidence of the truth of their statement.
_Conferences_. Our ability to do the work we did was due largely to
the fact that every day at noon we held a conference with all the
secretaries, each of which began with scripture reading and prayer.
[Illustration: IN THE LEAVE AREA
1. Serving Literature. 2. On the Veranda. 3. At Play. 4. In the
Library. 5. At the Cascades after a Hike.]
Just here it might be interesting to read a translation of one of the
letters written by the Mayor of Challes-les-Eaux, with reference to
colored soldiers on leave there. After four wonderful months in the
Leave Area, where we came to know every variety of colored soldier in
France, we were sent to the devastated area that had been the front.
Just as we were leaving, a messenger met us at the tram and handed us a
letter that was so unexpected as to surprise us, but of which we were
tremendously proud. It is impossible to reveal the real spirit of this
letter in a translation, but this letter, similar to one given to Mr.
Stevenson, expresses the feeling of the French people for our men as
they lived in their hotels and moved in their midst. The following is
the letter translated into English:
_The Mayor of Challes-les-Eaux, Savoie, to
the Lady Directress of the Y. M. C. A._
Madame: In the name of the population of Challes-les-Eaux I thank
you very much for the pleasure at your many entertainments. Give
thanks to your very good amateur artists.
You have won the admiration of the population for the care that you
have not ceased to give these black soldiers, who are wonderful
children, with generous hearts, a spirit of good comradeship,
possessing also a French trait—that of loving and making themselves
beloved.
Touched by the welcome which is given them, their hearts are wounded
because they cannot fraternize with their white comrades as they do
with us, and they regret not to be able to express to us more than a
promise to return to France, the country of fraternity.
We retain the best memories of their sojourn with us, where no
incident has occurred to mar our relations. We are pleased with their
good record.
We ask you to convey the greetings of the people of Challes-les-Eaux
to their dear families and beg that they will accept our fondest
regard and our sympathetic felicitations.