Baton Rouge--Gumbo--An Irish-French-Spaniard--The governour--Mrs.
O’Brien’s--Journey on return--An American camp--Extensive
prospect--Tomlinson’s.
Arriving at Baton Rouge, on enquiry I was informed that Madame Le
Gendre’s was the {311} most respectable auberge, I accordingly stopt
there, and found a number of genteel men, Frenchmen, Spaniards, English
and Americans, with about a dozen of whom I sat down to supper, quite
_a la Française_. The table was well covered with different made
dishes, and a variety of vegetables, among which the most conspicuous,
was a large dish of gumbo, served by the hostess at the head, which
seemed to be a standing dish, and much in repute, as almost every one
was helped to it. It is made by boiling ocroc until it is tender, and
seasoning it with a little bit of fat bacon. It then becomes so ropy
and slimy as to make it difficult with either knife, spoon or fork, to
carry it to the mouth, without the plate and mouth being connected by
a long string, so that it is a most awkward dish to a stranger, who
besides, seldom relishes it, but it is a standing dish among the French
creoles, as much as soup and bouilli is in France, or the _olla_ in
Spain.
A bed was prepared for me in the front gallery or piazza, where Madame
Le Gendre assured me I should be less troubled with musquitoes than
in the interior of the house, and that I should also find it more
cool and agreeable. I mention this as a _trait_ of French character,
particularly the female, to make a virtue of necessity, and to
turn even their inconveniences to advantage, for notwithstanding
her assertion that it was solely _pour l’accommodation de Mons.
l’Etranger_, had there been any other place for a bed in her small
house, one would not have been prepared for me in the gallery. The
musquitoes were sufficiently ennuyants to make me rejoice at perceiving
the first dawn of day, when I hurried on my clothes, and sallied
out to view the seat of government of the western division of West
Florida.[216]
About half a dozen tolerably good frame (or wooden) houses scattered
on an extensive plain surrounded on three sides by woods at a little
distance, first {312} made their appearance, while a dirty little town
of 60 cabins crouded together in a narrow street on the river bank,
penned in between the Mississippi and a low steep hill descending from
the plain, filled up the fourth side. I walked through the village--it
is a right French one--almost every other house being a petty shop for
the sale of bread, tobacco, pumpkins and taffia (or bad rum) distilled
at the sugar plantations a little lower down the river. It is matter
of astonishment how so many shops of the same kind find customers. I
observed two tolerably well assorted stores, one kept by a Frenchman,
the other by Mr. Egan, an Irishman, to whom I carried an introductory
letter from Mr. O’Connor, which ensured me a friendly and hospitable
welcome.
I breakfasted with him, and then went to view the fort on the plain
above the north end of the town. It is a regular square with four small
bastions at the angles. The ramparts are composed of earth thrown up
out of a small dry ditch or fosse which surrounds it, and are crowned
by a stoccade of pickets. A few small guns mounted, point to the
different approaches, and also command the river, but it is a work
of very little strength, and not capable of much defence against a
prepared enemy.
I returned to my friend Egan’s, who accompanied me to the house of Don
Gilbert Leonard, the contador (or collector) to whom I had letters
of introduction. The affectation of importance which this gentleman
attached to his offer of accompanying me to government house, as soon
as his _excellency the governour_ should be visible, was matter of
amusement to me, who had been accustomed to see less ceremony observed
in introductions to men of infinitely greater importance. He excused
himself from asking me to dine with him, as he said his family were
all indisposed, but any other time that I should be in Baton Rouge,
he hoped to have that pleasure. He promised {313} to call on me about
eleven o’clock at Mr. Egan’s, as soon as he had made himself up for
a visit to the governour, and he begged leave to retire to dress,
although the changing of a silk morning or dressing gown for a coat,
was all that was necessary, he having evidently bestowed some time on
his person just before our arrival.
During the short time we remained at his house, Don Gilbert led the
discourse to the politicks of the day, reprobating in most warm terms,
the folly of the Spaniards for endeavouring to emancipate themselves
from the chains of Napoleon--ascribing it to their being instigated
to it by the artifices of that enemy of mankind _Britain_, to which
country he declared himself a sworn enemy. It is worthy of remark,
that all this opinionated and ill informed self consequence, proceeded
from a son of Irish parents, who had arisen to his present station in
a Spanish provincial government, from an obscure situation in life,
by a chain of fortuitous circumstances. As he had volunteered himself
to be my Ciceroni to the governour, I awaited him at Mr. Egan’s some
time later than the appointed hour, which tardiness was of course to
give the visit additional consequence. We at last proceeded together,
and not finding the governour at home, I told him, I would put him to
no farther trouble, but would myself wait upon his excellency on his
return from his promenade.--He made his bow, and I was again a free man.
About one o’clock, I found the governour, Don Carlos de Grand Pré at
home. He gave me a polite reception, and while his written permission
to remain six months in the country (a ceremony all strangers are
obliged to go through, previous to making a permanent settlement) was
preparing, he entered into a conversation on agricultural topicks, and
appeared to be a well informed, and well bred man. He avoided touching
on politicks, but Don Gilbert’s sentiments on {314} that subject
are supposed to be his, he being a native of France, and of course
naturally partial to his country, whether ruled by a Capet, by a mob,
or by a Napoleon.[217]
After a friendly and unceremonious dinner with Mr. Egan, I left Baton
Rouge on my return, not having any curiosity to explore any more of the
country than I had hitherto seen, the cream of which I considered to be
the Bayau Sarah settlements.
Returning again through Montesano, I arrived at Mrs. O’Brien’s a little
before dark. It being too late to proceed any farther that night, I
stopped and requested room for myself and horse until morning. My
request was complied with according to the general custom of the
country, but in such polite terms, and it introduced me to so agreeable
a society at supper, that I congratulated myself for not having had
time to go farther. The family consisted of Mrs. O’Brien herself, and
her daughters Mrs. Flood, wife of doctor Flood of New Orleans, Mrs.
Saunders, and Miss O’Brien. Two gentlemen from Orleans joined us after
supper, which was an additional motive for self-congratulation. As they
were travelling my road. They as well as me were strangers to Mrs. O’B.
It is impossible to travel in any part of this new country after dark,
as the roads are only bridle paths, which are so darkened by the woods
through which they lead, that the adventurous traveller must inevitably
lose himself.
On Thursday, 8th September, I proceeded with my two companions before
the family were stirring, and we arrived at Mr. Duwal’s on the Great
Prairie, time enough to sit down with the family to breakfast. We
afterwards stopped to bait at Mr. Carters, and then went on cross
Thompson’s creek to Mr. Perry’s, where we found Messrs. Duncan and
Gamble, lawyers from New Orleans, at dinner. Chairs were placed for us
of course, and after partaking of Mr. Perry’s hospitable {315} meal,
I went on to doctor Flowers’s--separating from my companions, who had
each different friends to visit in that part of the country.
Next day, the 9th September, I went to Capt. Percy’s to dinner, and
spent the remainder of that day and night there, and on the 10th, after
dining at Mr. O’Connor’s I retraced my journey across the line into the
Mississippi Territory, and passing through Pinckneyville, I entered
Capt. Semple’s plantation, and rode nearly two miles through it before
I came to the house of the proprietor--passing in the way two different
negro quarters, and the whole road resembling several I have known
through the demesnes of the nobility in Europe, in its variety--through
woods, lawns, pastures and cultivated fields, on the whole the most
beautiful plantation to ride through of any I had hitherto seen in this
western country.
I had to regret the absence of my hospitable host and hostess, who were
on a visit at Mrs. Trumbull’s, Mrs. Semple’s mother. I was however well
taken care of--and proceeding next morning, I deviated a little from
the road to visit the camp. As I approached it I met several negroes
returning home from a market which is kept there every Sunday morning.
On my arrival I was much surprised with a village, differing from any I
had ever before seen. Twenty-four large huts faced a wide open space
cleared for a parade, in front of which is held the market. In the rear
of these, with a narrow street between, are ten very snug and well
furnished cottages, appropriated for the officers, who reside in them,
some with their families, and some _en garçon_. But the most remarkable
circumstance is that the whole camp is constructed with cane (the large
reed) in such a manner as to render every dwelling perfectly tight and
warm. They are all floored with plank, and the officers’ quarters are
glazed, and have each a little {316} garden; and there runs through
the whole an air of neatness, propriety, and cleanliness, that I have
seldom seen surpassed. The situation is on the slope of a very high
hill, and the whole country for some miles round, particularly towards
the Mississippi, is nothing but a continuation of steep and broken
hills, covered with forest timber, and an impenetrable cane brake,
except in a few places, where some adventurous settler has found a
small spot, not too steep for the plough, or where narrow paths of
communication have been cut through the canes.
Having gratified my curiosity with a view of this little encampment, I
went on to Wilkinsonburg, and spent the rest of the day with my friend
H----.
On Monday, the 12th September, proceeding at early dawn, I took a wrong
trace about five miles from Fort Adams, by which I was taken two or
three miles out of my road, but coming to a plantation, I had some
compensation made me for my _egarement_, by receiving directions for
another road to Buffaloe creek, by which I cut off five miles, with the
additional satisfaction of having only eight miles without a house,
instead of twelve by the main road. I had hills on my right hand,
covered with the usual variety of forest trees, and a thick cane brake
underneath, while on my left, a gloomy and malignant swamp extended
to the Mississippi, some miles distant. I breakfasted at Smith’s who
keeps a tavern, and a ferry over Buffaloe creek, three miles below
the toll bridge on the other road. I had three short miles of a bad
and miry road to Ellis’s plantation, and four from thence along a
ridge to major Davis’s, where I again came into the main road. A mile
farther brought me to Big Jude’s, a free negro woman, settled on one
side of a broken plain, which seems to have been a plantation at some
distant period back, but by the washing away of the soil, it now only
affords nourishment to a short herbage, {317} seemingly very proper
for sheep. From hence is a very extensive view over the surrounding
forests--in which far to the westward may be seen a line formed by
the Mississippi, making a great curve that way. Ellis’s heights and
the chain of hills running from thence to the eastward of Natchez
terminate the view to the northward, while Loftus’s heights do the same
to the southward. Extensive prospects occur so rarely in this country
of forests, that when a traveller happens to meet with one, he feels
wonderfully cheered, although he sees nothing but a horizon of woods,
which, particularly when without their leaf, in the winter season, have
a very sombre and gloomy appearance, a little inequality of horizon
where a hill happens to bound the view, being the only variety; but
after emerging from the thick forests and cane brakes, in which he has
been long buried, he feels an expansion of the whole system which is
extremely pleasing.
The road is hilly but good, through a pleasant wood, chiefly of that
superb tree the magnolia or American laurel, clear of underwood and
cane, and passing several small plantations four or five miles from
Jude’s to the Homochito.
Being ferried across that charming little river, I had a good road
through a pleasant country tolerably well settled five miles to Mr.
Tomlinson’s. I had a letter to him from my friend H----, which was
no sooner delivered, than both he and Mrs. T. vied with each other in
their friendly attentions to me. They insisted on my not going farther
that night, and manifested the greatest friendship for the writer of my
introductory letter, by the warmth and kindness of their hospitality to
me.
FOOTNOTES:
[216] The name Baton Rouge (Red Stick) is supposed to have been
derived from a tall cypress tree, which, having been stripped by the
lightning to its red wood, formed a prominent landmark. The town was
first settled by the French about 1720, but remained an inconsiderable
hamlet, even after the accession of eighty Acadians (about 1730). The
British, while in control of West Florida, built a fort and established
a garrison here, which was surrendered by Colonel Dickson to the
victorious Spanish under Galvez, in 1779. Baton Rouge was incorporated
as an American town in 1817, and became the capital of Louisiana in
1850.--ED.
[217] Don Carlos de Grandpré was a Frenchman, who held important
positions in the Spanish service. In 1779, he aided Galvez in his
capture of British Florida, and was left by the latter in command of
the fort at Baton Rouge. In 1788, he commanded the Natchez district,
but made himself unpopular to the American inhabitants, whereupon he
was superseded by Gayoso de Lemos. Upon the latter’s promotion to the
governorship of Louisiana, Grandpré was again detailed for Natchez; but
on account of the protests of the inhabitants, was removed in favor of
Minor. When Louisiana was transferred to the United States, Grandpré
was commandant at Baton Rouge. The American inhabitants of this
district began a revolt, which Grandpré severely repressed. Upon the
successful revolt of the same province in 1810, a son of the commandant
was killed while defending the post of Baton Rouge. During the British
advance against New Orleans, Grandpré sided with his former enemies,
and boarded one of their warships. His later history is unknown.--ED.
{318} CHAPTER LIV
Return to the northward through Natchez, Greenville and Port
Gibson--Bayau Pierre--General remarks on climate, soil, water, face
of the country, manners, productions, &c.
On Tuesday, 13th September, I set out early, after returning thanks
to my kind host and hostess. At two miles I passed Mrs. Hutchinson’s
on the right; one mile farther, Mr. Abner Green’s on the left; three
quarters of a mile beyond which, I left Mr. Poindexter’s, member of
congress from this territory, on the right.
I stopped for a few minutes at Mr. Dunbar’s--sometimes known and
addressed by the title of Sir William Dunbar, I know not on what
foundation. He is a native of Scotland--is a gentleman of literature
and philosophical research--is esteemed rich--and occupies one of the
most tasty and best furnished cottages I have seen in the territory.
Passing three or four other large plantations in sight of the road, six
miles more brought me to St. Catharine’s creek, now an inconsiderable
brook, but in floods an impassable torrent; crossing which I had two
miles and a half to Col. William Scott’s, where I stopped and dined
with Mrs. Scott, the Col. being from home.
After dinner, taking the road through Natchez, I went to Mr.
Blennerhasset’s, where I supped and slept.
Wednesday, 14th, after breakfast, Mr. Blennerhasset accompanied me to
Natchez, where we made a few visits, in doing which we called on Mr.
Evans, whose niece, Mrs. Wallace, a young and gay widow, and his eldest
daughter, favoured us with a few tunes on an organ, built for him by
one Hurdis, an English musical instrument maker and teacher of musick,
{319} then residing in Natchez. The instrument was tolerably good, and
ought to be so, as it has cost one thousand dollars.
I returned home with Mr. Blennerhasset, and next morning very early,
proceeded through Washington, Sulserstown and Uniontown to Greenville,
and from thence by a tolerably good road, in a northerly direction,
twelve miles to Trimble’s tavern, where I put up for the night. I was
much impeded in my progress for the last two miles, by the effects of
a hurricane, which had happened about a year before, and which had
blown down by the roots, or broken off the tops of all the trees in
its way--levelling every cabin and fence that opposed its passage, but
like the generality of the hurricanes (which happen frequently in this
climate and always from the westward) not exceeding half a mile in
breadth. Trimble’s family had like to have been buried under the ruins
of their cabin, not having had over a minute to escape to the outside,
and throw themselves flat on the ground, when it was blown down.
Those gusts are very tremendous, being always accompanied by thunder,
lightning, and torrents of rain, but from running in such narrow veins,
they are very partial, and therefore not so much dreaded as those
general ones which sometimes devastate the West India islands.
Next day I proceeded nine miles in a northerly direction to Port
Gibson, on a western branch of the Bayau Pierre. This little town of
twenty houses is the capital of Claiborne county, and is esteemed the
most thriving place in the territory, notwithstanding it is extremely
unhealthy, from the proximity of some stagnant ponds, and the annual
inundation of the Mississippi, which swells Bayau Pierre and causes it
to stagnate for from four to six months, every year. The ponds might be
drained, were the inhabitants not so entirely occupied by business and
{320} pleasure, to which two pursuits they devote the whole of their
time.
It is thirty miles from Port Gibson to the Mississippi, following
the windings of the Bayau Pierre, through a very hilly and broken
country, but it is only fourteen miles by the road. As when the waters
are up the bayau is navigable for large craft, that season is the
most bustling time in Port Gibson, the storekeepers then importing
goods and exporting cotton. On the subsiding of the waters, the
sickly season commences, and lasts with little variation from July
to October, inclusive. This is more or less the case over the whole
territory, particularly on the banks of the Mississippi, and in the
neighbourhood of swamps and stagnant ponds. The driest seasons are the
most unhealthy. The prevailing malady is a fever of the intermittent
species, sometimes accompanied by ague, and sometimes not. It is rarely
fatal in itself, but its consequences are dreadful, as it frequently
lasts five or six months in defiance of medicine, and leaves the
patient in so relaxed and debilitated a state, that he never after
regains the strength he had lost. It also frequently terminates in
jaundice or dropsy, which sometimes prove fatal.
All newcomers are subject to what is called a seasoning, after which,
though they may be annually attacked by this scourge of the climate, it
rarely confines them longer than a few days. Every house in Port Gibson
is either a store, a tavern, or the workshop of a mechanick. There is
a very mean gaol, and an equally bad court-house, though both are much
in use, particularly the latter, as, like the United States in general,
the people are fond of litigation. Gambling is carried to the greatest
excess, particularly horse racing, cards and betting--a wager always
deciding every difference of opinion. On the whole, Port Gibson and its
neighbourhood is {321} perhaps the most dissolute as well as the most
thriving part of the territory.
I dined at my friend doctor Cummin’s,[218] who lives on his fine
plantation near the town, and taking a S. W. road of thirteen miles, I
arrived in the evening at Bruinsburg.
I shall here conclude my tour, with a few general observations.
The climate of this territory is very unequal, between excess of
heat during the principal part of the year, when the inhabitants are
devoured by musquitoes, gnats and sand-flies, to excess of cold, in
the winter nights and mornings, when a good fire, and plenty of warm
woollen clothing are indispensibly necessary, though the middle of the
day is frequently warm enough for muslin and nankeen dresses to suffice.
The soil is as various as the climate. The river bottoms generally,
and some of the cane brake hills, not being exceeded for richness in
the world, while some ridges and tracts of country after being cleared
and cultivated for a few years, are so exhausted, as to become almost
barren.
Water is very partially distributed--it being scarce, unpleasant,
and unwholesome, within seven or eight miles of the Mississippi--and
it being fine and in abundance from that to the eastward to the pine
woods, which generally begin at from fifteen to twenty miles distance
from the river.
The face of the country is also much diversified--a dead swampy but
very rich level borders the Mississippi the whole length of the
territory and West Florida, from the Walnut hills to Baton Rouge, with
the exception of some ends of ridges, or bluffs as they are called,
at the Walnut hills, the Grand and Petit gulphs--Natchez and Baton
Rouge. The flat or bottom is in general about two miles broad, though
in some places nine or ten. The different water courses, {322} which
run mostly into the Mississippi from the eastward have each their
bottom lands of various breadths, but all comparatively much narrower
than those of the Mississippi. The intervals are composed of chains
of steep, high and broken hills, some cultivated, some covered with a
thick cane brake, and forest trees of various descriptions, and others
with beautiful open woods devoid of underwood. Some are evergreen with
laurel and holly, and some, where the oak, walnut and poplar are the
most predominant; being wholly brown in the winter, at which season
others again are mixed, and at the fall of the leaf display a variety
of colouring, green, brown, yellow and red.
On approaching the pine woods, the fertility of the soil ceases, but
the climate becomes much more salubrious--that will however never draw
inhabitants to it while a foot of cane brake land or river bottom
remains to be settled.
The pine woods form a barrier between the Choctaw nation and the
inhabitants of the Mississippi territory, which however does not
prevent the Indians from bringing their squaws every fall and
winter to aid in gathering in the cotton crop, for which they are
paid in blankets, stroud, (a blue cloth used by them for clothing)
handkerchiefs, and worsted binding of various colours, besides other
articles of manufactured goods, which are charged to them at most
exorbitant prices.
The cotton crop requiring constant attention, and children being
useful in gathering it, the bulk of the inhabitants cannot afford
to spare the labour of their children, so that education is almost
totally neglected, and perhaps there are few people, a degree above
the savage, more completely destitute of literary acquirements. But as
they grow up, they can find time for attendance at courts of law, horse
races, and festive, or rather bacchanalian meetings at taverns, where
bad whiskey is drank to the greatest excess. Notwithstanding {323}
this proneness to dissipation, to the neglect of manners, morals and
property, there is a semblance of religion, so that any noisy sectarian
preacher may always be sure of having a congregation, if his time of
preaching is known a day beforehand.
With respect to the productions of the territory, cotton is the
staple, and since the disappearance of specie it serves in lieu of
money. The river bottom lands generally yield from eighteen hundred to
two thousand pounds to the acre, the uplands about a thousand. Maize
or Indian corn is produced on new land in the ratio of seventy or
eighty bushels per acre, well attended. Horses, horned cattle, hogs
and poultry might be raised in any quantity, yet cotton so entirely
engrosses the planters, that they are obliged to Kentucky for their
principal supply of horses and pork and bacon.
Wheat would grow well, but it is not attended to, so that all the wheat
flour used, comes down the Mississippi. The middle states supply a
quantity of salted beef, and the southern ones rice, which might also
be raised abundantly.
When not destroyed by a frost in April, there are abundance of early
apples and peaches; but the climate is too cold in winter for the
orange or lemon to the northward of La Fourche, on the Mississippi,
below Baton Rouge.
The woods abound with bear and deer, which are sometimes killed and
sold by the Indian and white hunters. Wild turkeys on the hills, and
water fowl of every description in the swamps are abundant, besides
smaller game both four footed and feathered of various descriptions.
But the chase, either with dogs or the gun is so laborious an
occupation, from the difficulty of getting through the cane brakes
and underwood, that one seldom meets with game at the tables of the
planters.
{324} The Mississippi, the smaller water courses, the lakes and ponds
abound with cat-fish of a superiour quality, and a variety of much more
delicate and finer fish, yet one seldom meets with them, any more than
with game.
In short, the tables of all classes of people have as little variety to
boast of as those of any other civilized people in the world. Coffee,
although double the price that it is bought for at New Orleans, is by
custom become an article of the first necessity, which the wife of the
poorest planter cannot do without, and it is of course the most common
breakfast. Milk is used to excess, which I have reason to think is an
additional cause of the prevalence of bilious disorders.
Proper care and conduct, might in some degree correct or guard against
the effects of the climate, and prudence and a well regulated economy,
might procure to the inhabitants of the Mississippi territory, almost
every comfort, convenience and delicacy, enjoyed in the most favoured
countries upon earth.
END OF MR. CUMING’S TOUR
FOOTNOTES:
[218] Dr. John Cummins was born in Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania,
in 1780. Having studied medicine with Dr. Rush of Philadelphia, he
emigrated to Mississippi Territory to engage in the practice of his
profession, settling first at Port Gibson; later having married a
daughter of Judge Bruin (1804) he removed to the plantation on Bayou
Pierre, where Cuming visited him. He endorsed heavily for Burr and
Blennerhassett, losing by them about $65,000. Burr’s maps left in his
care are important evidence of the destination of his expedition. Dr.
Cummins was called to Richmond in order to testify at the Burr trial,
and afterwards attempted to recover some of the money he had lost,
but with no success. Removing to the parish of Concordia, Louisiana,
he lived the life of a wealthy cultivated planter--being especially
interested in literature--until his death in 1822. The details of his
history have been kindly furnished by his granddaughter, Mrs. T. C.
Wordin, of Bridgeport, Connecticut.--ED.
_{325} In order to complete the description of the Mississippi, we
subjoin the following, being Extracts of Notes of a voyage from
Pittsburgh to New Orleans, thence by sea to Philadelphia, in the
year 1799, made by a gentleman of accurate observation, a passenger
in a New Orleans boat, who has been polite enough to grant us his
manuscript for this purpose.
Mr. Cuming having stopped at the Bayau Pierre, we commence this
narrative a little above that river, in order to shew the state of the
settlements of the country at that time._
February 9. This evening we made a good landing on the Spanish shore,
with the river even with the top of the bank. When we had got our boat
tied to a tree, I took a walk on the shore, and found it covered with
herbs, briers, blackberries and oak trees, all in leaf. I measured the
leaf of a sycamore tree and it was twenty inches over. The evening was
calm and clear, but the air rather cool, the new moon looked beautiful.
Feb. 10. We proceeded early and got ten miles before sunrise. At half
past one o’clock we came to a part of the river where some little time
before there had been a hurricane; it overspread an extent of about
half a mile in breadth, and crossed the river in two places about one
league apart. The tops of the trees had been twisted off, others torn
up by the roots and hurled into the river, some lying with their roots
above the bank, and their tops in the river. The route it had taken
was clearly perceptible, and how far it extended on each hand. Its
appearance was like the wreck of creation, or the subsiding of some
general deluge. Over this whole extent there was not the least vestige
of a tree left, the deserted stumps excepted. At four o’clock, after
taking a circuitous {326} route in a very long bend of the river, the
vestiges of this hurricane again appeared. It had taken a north east
course, spreading destruction in its train; even the elastick cane
brakes were torn up and extirpated.
Feb. 11. At half past seven arrived at the mouth of the Yazoo river.
It has a beautiful appearance, rising in the mountains of Georgia, and
taking a south west course, empties itself here. Our expectations were
now raised on seeing once more the dwellings of men, having floated
_six hundred miles_ through savage nations, without seeing a dwelling
of civilized people, and were not a little pleased with discovering
over the tops of the trees at a remote distance the Walnut hills, upon
which is a garrison and some dwellings of United States’ citizens.
When opposite the garrison the flag was hoisted as a token for us to
bring too, which we obeyed. Mr. M--’s boat was a mile ahead, but was
labouring hard to make the shore, knowing the necessity of coming too,
he landed, but was obliged to let loose again, and left us to offer an
apology to the commandant. All along the bank we saw numbers of Indians
of the Choctaw nation, men, women, and children, decorated with beads,
broaches, deer tails, buffaloe horns, &c. We had no sooner landed than
the whole garrison was in an uproar, making preparations to fire upon
Mr. M--’s boat.
The sergeant came down to inform us of the intention of the garrison.
Mr. E--, the owner of the boat in which I was, replied that that boat
was his property, and the garrison saw the endeavours of the men to
land, but without effect, that he was ready to give the necessary
information respecting her and cargo, and if any damage was done, he
knew where to apply for redress; this spirited reply quieted the mind
of the sergeant, and the storm of the garrison subsided. We tarried
here a few hours, sold some {327} apples, cider, &c. and then dropped
down about four miles where we landed.
Feb. 12. Two hours before sunrise we resumed our voyage, overtook two
other boats for Natchez, met a large keel boat rowing up with twenty
oars working, and the men were singing and shouting at a wonderful
rate, I suppose the effect of their morning dram, being informed each
man gets three every day.
At 12, we took our canoe and got a quantity of neat Bamboo canes, which
we spent the day in trimming. At 5, after passing the mouth of Bayau
Pierre, we entered the Grand Gulph, a place formed by a large bluff or
high land on the east shore, and a short point of land on the opposite
side. The river here is very much contracted, on each hand there are
prodigious whirlpools, between which the current runs.
Feb. 13. The country is now a little more agreeable, being partly
settled, nor are we in danger from sawyers, they being chiefly swept
away by the large rafts of timber taken down every season to Natchez
and Orleans, for the purpose of building, &c. The banks of the river
are now lined with that beautiful species of cane called fan pernato,
or lettania, the stem is of an oval form, and when twisted, makes a
handsome walking stick (some of which we got), its top is formed like a
fan, and is used for that purpose by some, when dried and bound. Peach
trees in blossom were scattered along the banks. Half past 5, we came
in sight of Natchez, a town situated on a high hill, about a quarter of
a mile from the river. This is in the territory of the United States;
here is a garrison, the country round is rich and fertile, thickly
inhabited, the climate favourable for producing Indian corn, figs,
indigo, cotton, &c.
Feb. 14. I walked up into town after breakfast, found it contained
about one hundred houses, and {328} beautifully situated, the
inhabitants however are much incommoded for the want of water in the
summer; staple commodity cotton, which when separated from the seed
and packed in bags, fetches twenty dollars per 100 lbs. There are
fig trees in every garden, the ground covered with perpetual green,
except when burnt up in the summer by the heat of the sun. There is a
beautiful Roman chapel, and a formidable garrison about a quarter of
a mile below the town. The hills were every where covered with wild
pepper grass, which furnishes the town with excellent sallad. Within a
few miles I am told improved plantations may be purchased at from two
to ten dollars per acre, and unimproved lands at 50 cents. The head
quarters being removed from Natchez to Loftus’s heights, fifty miles
lower down the river, we concluded to loose our hold and drop down to
that place, which we reached about two o’clock next day, but were not
able to make a landing until two miles below the garrison. We collected
our papers, and with difficulty from the badness of the route up the
bank, we reached head quarters, and inquired of the centinel for the
general (Wilkinson.) After waiting a few minutes the general came out
of his tent; recognizing us, and after a few compliments, he insisted
on our walking in and dining with him, which we accepted. We found him
surrounded by his officers, after introducing us to them, he ordered
each of us a chair, one on his right hand and the other on his left, he
made some inquiry about our Pittsburgh friends, conversed on politicks,
theology, &c. and observed that the soldiers were full of money, having
just been paid off, and if we had been so fortunate as to have landed
at the camp, we might have made great sales. After taking a few glasses
of wine I requested to speak to the general in private. Having informed
him of my business, and shewed him my documents, &c. I requested him to
oblige me with a {329} letter of introduction to the governour at New
Orleans, which he promised he would have ready the next morning. On
taking leave of the general for the evening, he ordered a periogue to
convey us down to our boat where we arrived in safety.
Feb. 16. The general’s barge came down for some apples, cider, and
onions, in it we returned to the camp and dined with doctor C----,
and went with him to the general’s, who received us politely, and who
furnished me with a letter to the Orleans governour as he had promised,
together with the papers I left in his hands. I took my leave and
returned to the boat.
Feb. 17. Having the general’s periogue still with us, Mr. E. and four
others rowed her up to the camp, and got his business settled with the
captain. This and yesterday had been wet and disagreeable.
Feb. 18. At 4, A. M. we left Loftus’ heights camp, with an encrease of
two passengers for New Orleans. Half past nine, we passed the mouth of
Red river, which comes in from the Spanish shore, and which is almost
full of alligators. We floated during the night about sixty miles, and
on
Feb. 19. We entered the settled parts of the banks of the Mississippi.
At 7, we met two large periogues from New Orleans. The men called to us
in French, and asked where we were from, we answered from Pittsburgh.
The country here is generally low and flat, and all along the banks
are beautiful plantations. The river is here and for one hundred and
fifty miles above New Orleans, kept within its bounds by artificial
banks raised sufficiently high for this purpose, called the _levee_, a
step very necessary, as the country on either side is lower than the
surface of the river. These banks were raised at an enormous expense
by order of the Spanish government. At 2, we crossed the mouth of
Bayau Sara river, two miles from which resides a Mr. {330} Bradford
[since dead] greatly celebrated in the late western insurrection, in
Pennsylvania.[219] A little above this river, on the opposite shore,
is a Roman church, at a settlement known by the name of Point Coupée,
which signifies a point cut off.[220] At half past three we proceeded
with difficulty, owing to high winds, and getting a little alarmed we
made shore. Half past six, P. M. we came to the head of two islands
both of which stood athwart our way; they are the more remarkable being
the last in the Mississippi, except below New Orleans. Between these
islands the navigation is dangerous, but a safe and good passage for
boats or vessels of any burden may be had on either side. During the
night we floated a considerable way, but were driven by the wind to the
eastern shore. Our canoe getting entangled in the limbs of a tree, we
lost it.
Feb. 20. At 5, A. M. we got imperceptibly into an eddy, and were
detained in it about an hour. We were now much amused with the many
beautiful plantations which covered the banks on both sides of the
river. On the east side is a handsome Roman chapel called Manshack,
about thirty leagues above Orleans.[221] At 10, the wind rose and blew
violently, the river much agitated, our boat rocked, and it was with
difficulty we could retain our footing, we rowed hard to make the lee
shore, which we accomplished at half past ten, opposite a small but
neat house on the western bank, which was occupied by a French family,
chiefly of females. They came to our boat, purchased some apples, and
we made out to understand them. I took a walk upon the bank, found the
garden full of herbs in flower; by invitation I went to the cottage,
and in my way picked up a sprig of parsley, the family observing me
smelling it, the mother of the children spoke to one of them, and
she ran into the garden and fetched me a nosegay of various potherbs
and flowers, which was a treat so early {331} in the season--add to
this, in consequence of something said to her by the mother, the
little female presented me with about a quarter of a yard of green
riband, with which she tied the posy. I tarried about twenty minutes
and returned to the boat. The wind having subsided, we pushed off. At
4, we got into a whirlpool, in which we were detained a considerable
time; this eddy was two miles in circumference, and the quantity of
drift wood in it was astonishing. After much difficulty we extricated
ourselves and regained the current. As we had now a very quick point
to turn, called Judas’s point, we were forced to the opposite shore,
and dashed against a heap of drift wood. Mr. E. jumped out on the
logs, fixed his shoulder against the boat, and with the hardness of
pushing and thrusting, the blood flew from his nose; by these efforts
however we got her off, but no sooner were we out of this difficulty
than we were drawn into a second eddy; after taking a round in it we
got out into the current again, and proceeded. During these disasters,
it rained, thundered, and lightened prodigiously. A few miles lower
down, we got into another eddy, and were actually floating round in it
without having observed our awkward situation, until called to and
informed of it by a person on shore, who advised us to land until the
next morning, which we did. It thundered, lightened and rained all
night, notwithstanding we slept comfortably.
Feb. 21. We were again blown on shore, but the wind abating and
shifting in our favour we proceeded. We saw for the first time oranges
on the trees hanging in great plenty. The wind rose in the evening and
dashed us against a tree, the storm continued and we were detained until
Feb. 22. We walked through the fine orange groves, plucked some fruit,
and pushed off, and continued floating through a country lined with
small plantations, and beautiful houses screened from the {332} sun by
orange trees, whose fruit we saw hanging every where in the greatest
abundance. Having floated nearly all night we landed two leagues above
New Orleans.
Feb. 23. We thought it adviseable to tarry here until sunrise, on
account of the probable difficulty of making a landing at the city.
At 7, we pushed off. Here indeed the banks of the river have a
beautiful appearance, elegant houses encompassed by orange groves,
sugar plantations, fine gardens, shady avenues, and the river covered
with multitudes of market boats rowing, some up and others down, all
tend to enliven the views of the passenger, and form a scene truly
delightful.
At a quarter before ten we landed at the city, and after collecting
and packing up my affairs, I went on shore with captain Payton, of the
United States’ army, who had accompanied us from the camp at Loftus’
heights. We went in search of lodgings, and after seeing the captain
safe, he being sick, I walked to Madam Shaboo’s, an Irish lady, who
kept a boarding house, chiefly for English and Americans. She had about
fourteen boarders at this time, English and American merchants, sea
captains, &c. They were very polite, viewed me obliquely, and no doubt
considered me an eccentrick character. After dinner I went in quest of
Mr. Clark,[222] to whom I was recommended for advice and assistance.
He conducted me to Mr. Lanthois, who I found indisposed. Leaving him I
went in quest of Mons. Gourhon, with whom I also had private business.
Walking afterwards on the levee with Mr. Clark, I was a little
surprised by a gentleman coming up behind me and catching hold of my
hand--it was my old friend doctor Lacassigne. I had been wishing to
see him, he being of a turn of mind somewhat philosophical, and could
interpret for me, and instruct me in the French language, and having
confidence in him, he {333} was a valuable friend and companion to me
while at Orleans. From the long confinement to the boat, I found my
hams, ancles, and knees so weak I was obliged to retire from our walk
to my lodgings to rest.
At 4, I got my documents, with general Wilkinson’s letter of
introduction to the governour, and after passing the guards, was
introduced into the presence of his excellency.[223] After examining
my papers, he asked me if I had a friend who could assist me in
negociating my business; I replied I had, then said he, you must
apply to your friend, and if you find any difficulty, I will redress
your grievances, I bowed, thanked him, and took my leave, feeling well
pleased so far.
Sunday, Feb. 24. After breakfast I went to Mr. E----’s boat, who I
found selling apples wholesale and retail, to a crowd of people on the
shore. Not relishing this kind of throng of business on a Sunday, I
soon retired to my lodgings. And here I must remark, that there is no
distinction or difference made by the inhabitants between a Sabbath and
any other day in the week, only the stores are fuller of purchasers
on the former, the stalls in the streets covered with merchandize,
the mechanicks engaged at their work, women seen sewing, and at my
lodgings, the female slaves were ironing linen in the publick room.
After dinner, Dr. Lacassigne called on me and we took a walk around
the skirts of the city. On our way to the upper fort we saw vast
numbers of negro slaves, men, women, and children, assembled together
on the levee, druming, fifing, and dancing, in large rings. Passing
by the taverns or coffee houses, you may discover gentlemen playing
at billiards, and as these tables are all exposed to publick view by
reason of the large wide doors being left open, no one need be at the
trouble of entering in to satisfy {334} his curiosity. We traversed
round the whole city, which afforded me much amusement.
Feb. 25. In company with the doctor I went up the river half a
mile to the house of Mr. Sarpe, which was situated in a handsome
garden of considerable extent, in which were fig trees in abundance,
pomegranates, and a large grove of orange trees. And what a little
surprised me was to see three stages of the progression of vegetation
on the same tree at the same time, that is, the blossom, the green
fruit, and those yellow and fully ripe, which was the situation of the
orange trees in Mr. Sarpe’s garden. I had not been made acquainted
with this fact before, and therefore was obliged to shew my ignorance
on the occasion. Dr. Lacassigne kept his residence here, and had his
room detached from Mr. Sarpe’s house, but in the same garden. It was
surrounded with palisadoes of cypress and lined within by orange trees,
whose fruit suspended on all hands. The door opened to the river, over
the top of the room was an electrical conductor, the point of which was
elevated three yards above, but divided at the ridge of the house, and
ran down each side of the roof and sides of the wall into the ground.
Owing to the extreme heat of the climate the air is more frequently
inpregnated with electrical fluid, the clouds more frequently charged
and discharged, the explosions louder, and the preparations to ward off
the effect produced by it more general than in colder climates. The
doctor’s apartment was furnished with a table, two or three chairs,
two beds, and a handsome library, composed of the Encyclopedia, the
works of Voltaire, Rosseau, and a variety of other works, mathematical,
astronomical, philosophical, French and English. Knowing that I walked
with a stick, the doctor had prepared two, of the young orange tree,
and presented them to me.
{335} Feb. 26. Paid Mr. E-- a visit and found him still busy in selling
off his apples, &c.
March 1. Having a fifteen hundred gallon still consigned to me for sale
by Mr. S--, of Pittsburgh, I walked into the country with the doctor to
a Mr. Delongua’s, a distiller of rum, to see if he would purchase it.
Sunday, March 3, went in company with Mr. Buckley to the Roman church,
found it elegantly ornamented, and upon the whole to exceed my most
sanguine expectations.[224] The service was conducted in a manner as
bespoke the conductors to be no novices. After baptising an infant
in a closet near me, the sermon was introduced by singing, in which
a number of boys and men were engaged, accompanied by the soft sound
of an organ, after which, one of the priests, (there being three)
delivered in the Spanish language a discourse on the sanctification
of the Sabbath. The energetick manner in which this was done, gave
me reason to believe he felt the force of his own arguments, and the
necessity of a reformation of the Sabbath day in New Orleans. The
service was, as is usual among the Romans, performed in Latin. It
concluded with singing, reading, &c. and I returned to my lodgings.
At 3 o’clock, P. M. six or eight of the boarders with myself and the
doctor took a walk about two miles from the city to view an Indian
encampment of the Choctaw nation. We had a shade of full bearing orange
trees, to the gate which we had to pass, near which marched a centinel
to guard a fort a little below, detached from the palisadoes which
surrounded the city. Outside of the gate we saw a large circular shade
for drying and manufacturing bricks, under which were upwards of fifty
Indians of both sexes, chiefly intoxicated, singing, drinking, rolling
in the dirt, and upon the whole exhibiting a scene very disgustful. We
soon came to another company of {336} ten men sitting in the middle of
the road, all intoxicated, amongst them was one standing, with a bottle
of rum in his hand, whose contents he alternately administered to the
rest, first by shaking the bottle and then pouring part of its contents
into their mouths. We proceeded, and in our way out, we met numbers
of Indian women with large bundles of wood on their backs, first tied
together and then held by a strap carried over their foreheads. Thus
loaded, they proceed to the city, while their husbands, (if they may
be allowed this appellation) are spending their time in indolence and
intoxication. We saw numbers of other women sitting on the ground
making baskets, mats, and sifters for Indian corn. The children were
entirely naked. The chief part of the men and women that were engaged
(for some of them were sober) were also naked, except a piece of cloth
which the men wore for decency, and a remarkably short petticoat worn
by the women; in every other respect they were entirely naked. They
were thickly encamped in the fields, on the road, and in almost every
direction, some in small cabins covered over with a shrub like a large
fan, called latania, others seated on the ground and exposed to the
heat of the sun. We walked about among them for an hour, and returned
to the city, where we found upwards of one hundred negroes of both
sexes assembled on the levee, fiddling, dancing, and singing.
Monday, March 4. Settled some private business, and some I could not
get settled, for some men are not honest, and others disposed to
equivocate, such I found Mons. G--n, who I should be glad to call
by a better name than v----n or r----l. With whom, however I found
Mr. Daniel Clark, merchant, very useful to me in getting my business
settled. I wrote to Mr. Peacock of Philadelphia by captain Bradberry.
{337} Thinking about homeward, I visited the brig Guyoso, in which I
intended to sail to Philadelphia. Captain Mason politely gave up his
birth in the cabin to me. Mr. E---- and four of his men were to go in
the same brig, having sold out his cargo to Mr. M----. Mr. E---- being
a good provider, we engaged him to lay in stores for the cabin.
Having two hours to spare, it may not be amiss to make a few remarks
as to the situation of New Orleans: It is situated in 29° 59′ north
latitude, 14° 53′ longitude west from Philadelphia. The city is
built in an oblong square, parallel with the river, which runs here
nearly north and south. Its bed is remarkably deep, but owing to the
astonishing quantity of water which it receives and conducts to the
sea, this scooped cavity is filled and sometimes overflows its banks
and inundates the country for miles, hence the city is low and flat,
and the adjacent grounds damp, of which the following circumstance is
an evidence. In digging the graves for the dead, before they are dug
sufficiently deep, they are filled with water, and the coffins are
generally held just below the surface until a quantity of sand and
gravel is thrown on to sink them to the bottom. The city is surrounded
by a deep ditch, and pallisadoed on its interior bank with picketed
cypress. This barrier takes its route round those sides of the city
exposed to the land, and joining the river above and below the town,
and is guarded by three tolerably strong square forts. There are two
gates leading to the interior of the country, guarded by mounts raised
on each side, upon which, cannon are planted. There are also two other
gates about one miles asunder, the one up, the other down the river,
whose entrance is guarded by the most formidable cannon, with some of
their mouths pointing to the river. Between these two gates are five
row gallies, stationed opposite to the governour’s house, which are
always kept in order and manned {338} ready for action. The streets are
laid out in a straight line from the river to the ditch and palisadoes,
and cross each other in parallel lines. The principal part of the
original plot of the city is built upon, particularly that next the
river. There is a space of 50 yards between the river and the front row
of houses, which has a beautiful appearance. The houses in general are
not more than one story high, some two, and a few three stories; the
rooms are lofty, and the doors very wide, to admit a free circulation
of air, which in this warm climate is very necessary.
The channel of the Mississippi, though very deep, and upwards of a
mile wide, would not admit the astonishing body of water to which
it serves as a conduit, had not nature and art combined to aid this
element in its descent to the ocean: the first in having made a number
of outlets, by which a considerable quantity of the overplus water
is carried off into the swamps and low lands, thence in channels to
the sea: the second in forming a number of mill races cut through the
levee. On these races saw mills are erected for sawing plank, boards
for building houses, and others for making sugar boxes, which are cut
in proper lengths and exported to the Havannah, where they are bartered
for excellent sugar. It is worthy of remark that the plantations along
the banks of the Mississippi from Natchez to New Orleans and still
lower down, were formerly appropriated to the culture of indigo and
rice, but the demand for these articles, particularly the first, being
on the decline, the attention of the planters is now turned to that
of sugar and cotton, both of which articles bid for making excellent
shipments, and consequently remittances for dry goods and other
articles imported from Europe.
The houses are in general neat, and some elegant. There is an elegant
Roman church, with a nunnery, in {339} which the females are instructed
and prepared, some for active life, others for the veil, which is not
unfrequent here.[225] I observed one day while standing in the street a
little distance from me, a priest walking with hasty steps on the levee
carrying the host, and three or four other persons carrying candles in
lanthorns; these were followed by a file of musketeers with bayonets
fixed. I was a little struck with surprise at this parade, and more so
on seeing the inhabitants kneeling down as it approached. While I was
satisfying my curiosity in observing these people at a distance, the
remark of a certain poet struck me with peculiar force:
Eye nature’s walks, shoot folly as it flies,
And catch the manners, living as they rise.
Monday, March 11. Having got my box and trunk examined at the custom
house, and my mattress and blankets on board the brig Guyoso, I took
my station in the cabin, where I slept as well as the musquitoes would
permit.
March 12. At 12, we set sail, receiving three cheers from a number of
American merchants, supercargoes, and seamen, assembled on the shore,
to whom we replied in the same manner. Half past three o’clock, we
passed the English turn, five leagues below New Orleans. Wind rather
ahead. At 4, we passed an old fort called St. Mary, on the right going
down. At 7, dropped our anchor and went to rest.
March 13. As soon as day broke, we were pestered with astonishing
swarms of musquitoes. At six, went on shore for wood, in getting which
the mate got his foot cut very badly; wheat flour was applied to the
wound, by direction of a prescription book the captain had, and the
foot bound up. Set sail at eight, having been detained by the fog. At
six, {340} came to an old Spanish garrison, called the Plaquemines,
here the flag was hoisted as a signal for us to bring too, which
we obeyed. The captain and supercargo went on shore in a boat, and
produced our passports. The captain soon hallooed to us to drop the
cage anchor. In this we discovered the ignorance of the Spaniards, for
they informed the captain the water was but fifteen fathoms deep, and
it proved upwards of thirty, which circumstance gave us a great deal of
trouble.
March 14. Detained by the fog till nine o’clock. Beat down and tacked,
the wind being ahead at one o’clock the river was still covered with
a thick fog. The ocean on each hand visible from the main-yard, and
on the right hand side we saw the South West pass, one of the outlets
or mouths of the Mississippi to the gulph of Mexico. Ahead we saw the
South and on the left the South East pass, there being three principal
passes to the sea. At three o’clock we came to these mouths, and
the fog mislead us into the South pass, and we did not discover our
error until Mr. E---- and myself for amusement went up the shrouds
upon the main-top and discovered ahead an island. As soon as this was
proclaimed, the brig put about, and after stemming the current for an
hour we got into the South East pass, which turns off gradually to the
left, and appears to be well exhibited in Jefferson’s chart, printed in
London 12th May, 1794. At 5 o’clock we ran on a shoal on the right hand
side of the South East pass, from which we got off without damage at
six o’clock, when we dropped anchor.
March 15. At 7, went upon deck and found the morning very damp and raw,
a thick mist covered the river, and obscured the land from our view. In
a half an hour the fog blew over and we could clearly discover about
two miles to the light house, at Balize, and a vessel riding at anchor
a little above it. {341}At nine o’clock came to an anchor opposite
the Balize. Here we took our long boat on board and prepared for sea.
At one o’clock P. M. the pilot came on board, anchor weighed, we put
about, and was under way in a few minutes. But we were soon enveloped
in a thick fog, and obliged to return to our late station and drop
anchor again.
In the evening I was much pleased with the beauty of nature as
exhibited by the setting sun reflecting its rays upon the clouds in the
western hemisphere, which were beautifully tinged with a fiery red.
The fog had cleared away, and there being nothing to interrupt the
prospect, it was delightful beyond description.
March 16. At six A. M. the pilot came on board; at seven we despatched
him again, and we now entered the gulph of Mexico, our course directly
S. E. The brig rolled and we got sea-sick. Latitude 27 and 46.
March 17. In the evening saw numbers of beautiful flying fish
endeavouring to escape from the pursuit of their inveterate foe the
dolphin.
March 18. Strong N. W. breezes, lat. 25 55. The 19th, 20th and 21st,
head winds, much rolling and tossing, sickness encreased. The 22d, fine
weather, becalmed in the afternoon. At 7, more flying fish skimming the
surface of the sea, indicating the approach of dolphins, to take which
the captain, he being an adept in this business, made preparations, and
caught one weighing 13 pounds, which was cleansed and set apart for
to-morrow’s dinner.
March 23. Saw to the leeward five sail of British ships of war, one
of which was the sloop Stark, 16 guns. After chasing another American
ship, she came after us; we knew it was in vain to flee, therefore
backed our sails till she came up. She spoke us, sent a boat on board,
took our captain and supercargo, and the brig’s papers. After examining
them, {342} and keeping us two hours in suspense, we were suffered to
depart. We were now in lat. 23. 32, six miles off the isle of Cuba.
We steered N. W. by N. knowing this direction, aided by the gulph
stream, would bring us to the Marter’s reef on the Florida shore. At
one, dined on our dolphin, a delicious dish. At four, having passed the
tropick of Cancer, saw a beautiful tropick bird, with a long divided
tail, all over white, shaped like a pigeon, but longer. In the evening
we tacked and steered east, the gulph stream still pushing us forward.
March 24. A British privateer, from Province, with twelve guns,
paid us a visit, and after the usual compliments of boarding us,
and scrutinizing our papers, &c. &c. and finding _all_ the property
on board belonging to American citizens, on this account we were
permitted to depart in peace, otherwise we should have seen the isle of
Providence without doubt. Another schooner appearing to the windward,
while the lieutenant was yet examining our papers, hastened him to his
own ship, when he immediately gave chase to it. At 12, we came again in
sight of isle of Cuba, about four leagues off. By the high lands and
lofty mountains we knew it to be that part of the island called the bay
of Hundor, or Honda.
March 25. At 6, we saw to the windward a ship belonging to Savannah
in Georgia, from Jamaica. She had been driven by the current and
contrary winds to a remote part of the bay, and detained upwards of 30
days. Most of her hands were sick and in great distress. We this day
experienced a terrible storm, which continued the most of the night.
There is something tremendously awful in the approach, and raging of
a storm at sea, accompanied by dreadful peals of thunder, quickly
following each other, and the quick flashes of lightning bursting in
streams from the dark and heavy loaded clouds pouring {343} down rain
in torrents. This was the case now, and we prepared for it. It was the
most dreadful storm I ever experienced, and I could not forbear singing
a hymn, applicable to our situation, namely, “_The God that rules on
high, and all the earth surveys_,” &c.
March 26. Fine clear morning, with a smooth sea. A sight of the island
of Cuba afforded us a pleasing prospect, and its high and mountainous
banks exhibited a most romantick scenery.
At 3 o’clock, were agreeably entertained with a fine view of the city
of Havannah, and the Moro castle. We were warned of our approach to
it by two hills called in the chart the Maiden’s Paps, on account of
their representing the two breasts of a woman. These two hills, though
five leagues in shore, are plainly discoverable six leagues before you
get opposite to them, and as they are due south of Havannah, we began
to look out for the city, and with our glasses soon discovered its
lofty towers and white buildings, of which there appeared to be a great
number; the strong castle and battery which guard the city were also in
view. From the Havannah we steered eastward, with a view to see another
hill called the Pan of Matanzas, from which we were to steer north.
March 27. From the top-mast saw several keys or islands to the south
east. Saw a large shark playing and rolling along side, and a big
turtle.
March 28. Being out of the gulf stream, we were all day becalmed in
lat. 23. 27, opposite the keys on the west end of the great Bahama
bank. Saw swarms of fish, and birds trying to catch them as they
came to the surface of the water. During our being becalmed, I heard
murmurs of certain individuals as to the _cause_. One says this is too
much--another, we have some devilment on board, &c. &c. The breeze
springing up in the evening we again hoisted sail, {344} and during the
night had like to have run on some keys, but fortunately discovered
them in time to tack about.
March 29. Lat. 24. 21. The gulf stream carries us three knots an hour,
but no wind. Saw a large shark along side, for which the captain threw
out a bait of pork; as soon as the shark saw this he dived, and turned
his white belly upwards, then gradually rising in this position to take
the bait, which he missed, and in turning again the hook caught him by
one of his fins, or broad pieces projecting from his side which assists
him in swimming, and as the cord was strong, the captain and three
others drew against him, and after a few flounces, got him along side
and drew him upon the quarter deck. After beating and thumping the deck
like a fury with his head, tail, and fins, the captain laid him for
dead by repeated strokes with the pole of an axe on the head. He had
a small fish called a sucker adhering so closely to him that it could
scarcely be separated. This small fish was shaped like a cat-fish, and
under its head was a large round substance by which it adhered, or held
itself to the shark. The shark being opened by the cook, its bowels
taken out, and eighteen inches of its body next the tail (that being
the most delicious part) cut out, and its tail cut off, it was then
thrown overboard; and what surprised me most was that it instantly swam
under the brig, and we perceived it swimming off on the other side as
far as our eyes could distinguish an object under water.
March 30 and 31. Gentle breezes, sailed however about six knots an
hour, being assisted by the gulf stream. I had now read over all my
books, among which I found the most pleasure in the delightful pages of
Baxter’s Saint’s Rest. My chief companion in the cabin was a Frenchman
of the name of Branie. We reciprocated in improving each other in our
several languages. I found this extremely {345} useful to me, for I was
thereby enabled to count, and ask questions of business, and for almost
any thing I wanted. At 12, lat. 27. 22.
April 1. At 12, lat. 29. 43. Quantity of sea-weed--high sea--large
shark skulking on the star-board side--numbers of herring hogs playing
around us. At nine A. M. the clouds assumed a threatening aspect, wind,
rain, thunder and lightning unite and rush upon us with fury. The sea
also seemed to enter into the combination against us. In alternate
succession we were raised to the clouds, and the next moment apparently
sunk to the bottom of the sea. In the cabin we were all struggling
to keep ourselves from being dashed against each other. At half past
ten the storm ceased, and a bowl of grog sent upon deck to treat the
sailors. Lat. 31. 6. The storm again commenced at one, and continued
until 12 o’clock at night.
April 3. Head winds and cloudy, had no observation to day. The night
produced such sudden gusts of wind, as nearly to throw the brig on her
beam ends.
April 4. In the afternoon saw two ships outward bound, steering S. E.
High and contrary winds. Lat. 33. 10. Another dreadful storm was now
preparing to attack us. At two in the morning was called upon deck by
the captain to view appearances, which were indeed dreadful. The masts
were now all naked, the sails being furled except a small part of the
main sail. The sea swelled, roared, and by the friction of the vessel
acting against the saline and fiery particles with which the sea is
impregnated, it appeared to vomit forth or emit streams of fire, from
the light of which, and that from the light charged circles with which
the gloomy clouds were environed, we could perceive something of our
situation. The ragings of the storm continued until
Saturday morning, 7 o’clock, April 6. When we flattered ourselves with
a calm, but in this we were {346} disappointed, for a hurricane, of
which the last was but a prelude, was now preparing. At 8, the wind
shifted from E. to N. One of the oldest seamen saw the approach of the
storm and gave the alarm. All was on deck in a moment. It came roaring
and foaming upon us most tremendously. A cotton bag of 317 lbs. which
was suspended over the quarter rail by strong ropes, was blown up and
lodged inside of the rail. The seas broke over us, and I must confess
I expected nothing but a watery grave ere long, for which I bethought
myself, composed my mind to prayer, recommending my family, and my
fellows to the protection of heaven. In two hours however this dreadful
scourge abated. Not having been able to take any observation, we
supposed ourselves a few miles to the south of cape Hatterass, off the
coast of Carolina.
Sunday, April 7. A fine clear day, not a cloud discoverable, the sea
calm and smooth. With the approbation of the captain I offered thanks
to heaven for our late deliverance. Observation 35. 25. In the morning
saw a brig to windward making for shore. She appeared to have been
labouring under the same if not more difficulties in the late storm
than ourselves.
Monday, April 8. The wind sprung up from the west and we shaped our
course for Philadelphia. At 12, lat. 36. 48. Seven or eight knots an
hour.
April 9. In expectation of making the light house at cape Henlopen by
4, A. M. we had the preceding evening made every preparation, the watch
was fixed, the lead and line for sounding during the night. At 12, we
got soundings in 25 fathoms water. Sounding was continued every hour
and at 4, A. M. had 14 fathoms. At 11, a pilot boat boarded us. At 12,
we were opposite the capes of Delaware, and the light house fair in
view. A head wind blowing up, the pilot steered us over to cape May,
and intended {347} to make cape island, but was prevented, therefore
continued along the Jersey coast, and passed the two mile and five
mile beach, and at four o’clock P. M. anchored in seven fathoms water
about two miles from shore opposite seven mile beach. The evening was
exceedingly cold, after having come immediately from so warm a climate;
this was very disagreeable to us. We retired however to the cabin,
amusing ourselves by recounting the difficulties of our voyage.
Thursday, April 11. Dropped anchor at 3, P. M. 20 miles within the bay
of Delaware. Friday 12th, the wind failed and we dropped anchor again a
little below Reedy island. At 10, A. M. tide being favourable we raised
anchor and continued tacking, and at 6 o’clock dropped our anchor about
four miles below New Castle.
FOOTNOTES:
[219] David Bradford was a native of Maryland, who removed to
Washington County, Pennsylvania, in 1781, and two years later was made
deputy attorney-general for the county. His speeches greatly inflamed
the mob element in the Whiskey Rebellion, and he was considered the
head of the movement; hence, when amnesty was proclaimed for those
who laid down arms, Bradford was omitted therefrom. He succeeded in
escaping, first to Kentucky, where public sentiment shielded him,
then to Bayou Sara, where he obtained a large land grant from the
Spaniards.--ED.
[220] Point Coupee is the oldest settlement on the lower Mississippi,
having been made by some wandering Canadian trappers as early as
1708. Bienville established this place as a military post, before the
commencement of New Orleans.--ED.
[221] The importance of Manchac began with the English occupation
of West Florida, when a fort was built at this point (Fort Bute) to
control the pass of the Manchac (or Iberville) River. It was the centre
of an illicit trade up the river, so that the expression “by way of
Little Manchac” became proverbial with the people of New Orleans to
express any form of smuggling. Willing took possession of Fort Bute
for the Americans in 1778, and it was later garrisoned by the Spanish.
Jackson closed the route through the Manchac River in 1814, to prevent
British occupation and it has never since been reopened.--ED.
[222] Daniel Clark was the richest and most prominent American in New
Orleans. He came to America from his native Ireland to assist his
relative, Colonel George Croghan, in the conduct of Indian affairs,
serving as a clerk to the latter. At the close of the Revolution, he
removed to New Orleans and became a Spanish subject; but was deeply
involved in the plots and intrigues of the Americans. Clark acted
as Wilkinson’s agent throughout, and served Burr on behalf of his
principal. He was chosen member of the first legislative council of
Louisiana Territory, but out of dislike for Claiborne, the governor,
declined to serve. The first legislature of Orleans Territory elected
him congressional delegate, and he was in Washington when Burr was
arrested. Later, he turned against Wilkinson because of the latter’s
duplicity to all his accomplices. Clark died in New Orleans in
1815.--ED.
[223] The governor of Louisiana at this time was Don Manuel Gayoso de
Lemos; for a sketch, see Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this series,
p. 81, note 155.--ED.
[224] The cathedral of New Orleans was built by the Spanish on the site
of the older French parish church, which was burned in 1788.--ED.
[225] The convent of the Ursulines is probably the oldest building now
extant in the Mississippi Valley. It was first occupied in 1734, and
employed as a seminary for instructing young women. After the battle
of New Orleans, the Ursuline nuns cared for the sick and wounded, and
received the public thanks of General Jackson. The convent was removed
to the suburbs in 1824; but the building is still used as the (Roman
Catholic) archiepiscopal palace of New Orleans.--ED.
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* * * * *
Transcriber’s note
Numbers in braces (i.e., {27}) are page references to the original
manuscripts.
Minor punctuation errors have been changed without notice. The spelling
of names and locations written by the author have been standardized.
There is often a difference in the spelling of those between the
author, the footnotes of Cramer, and the footnotes of the editor. The
original spelling for all of these have been retained.
Other spelling has also been retained as originally published except
for the changes below.
Page 77: “one of the must useful” “one of the most useful”
Page 130: “Mr. Wild’s on Mr. Avery’s” “Mr. Wild on Mr. Avery’s”
Page 148: “of Franche {129} Comtè” “of Franche {129} Comté”
Page 224: “worried we with questions” “worried me with questions”
Page 287: “musquetoe curtains” “musquitoe curtains”
Page 300: “below Mr. Walbrock’s” “below Mr. Malbrock’s”
Page 309: “barrier or levèe” “barrier or levée”
Page 331: “Don Thomas Estwar” “Don Thomas Estevan”
Page 339: “a la Francaise” “a la Française”
Page 342: “Don Carlos de Grandprè” “Don Carlos de Grand Pré”
Page 357: “the other on his felt” “the other on his left”
Page 359: “name of Point Coupèe” “name of Point Coupée”