Visit from Indian warriours--Our apprehensions--Indian manners and
customs not generally known--First, Second and Third Chickasaw
Bluffs, and several islands.
May 26.--We drifted forty-three miles, between five o’clock, A. M.
and five o’clock P. M.--passing several islands and sand-bars, and
had got between island No. 31 and Flour island, when an Indian canoe
from the left shore boarded us with a chief and three warriours of the
Shawanee nation.[186] They had their rifles in the boat, and their
knives {259} and tomahawks in their belts, and it is my opinion that
their intentions were hostile had they seen any thing worth plundering,
or found us intimidated--but by receiving them with a confident
familiarity, and treating them cautiously with a little whiskey, they
behaved tolerably well, and bartered a wild turkey which one of them
had shot for some flour, though it might have been supposed that they
would have made a compliment of it to us in return for our civility to
them, as besides giving them whiskey to drink, we had given them good
wheat loaf bread to eat, and had filled a bottle they had in their
canoe with whiskey for their squaws at the camp. It is remarked, that
the Indians are not in habits of generous acts, either through the
niggardliness of nature, or selfish mode of bringing up; or it may be
owing to their intercourse with the white hunters and traders, who
take every advantage of them in their dealings, and so set them an
example of selfishness and knavery, which they attempt to follow. Our
skiff which had been absent with some of the passengers now coming
on board, encreased our numbers so as to render us more respectable
in the eyes of our troublesome visitors, and being abreast of their
camp, where the party appeared pretty numerous, they shook hands with,
and left us, to our great joy, as we were not without apprehension
that they would have received a reinforcement of their companions
from the shore, which in our defenceless state would have been a most
disagreeable circumstance.
They were well formed men, with fine countenances, and their chief was
well drest, having good leggins and mockasins, and large tin ear-rings,
and his foretop of hair turned up, and ornamented with a quantity of
beads.
Evening approaching, we plied our oars diligently, to remove ourselves
as far as possible from the Indian camp before we should stop for the
night, and by six {260} o’clock we had the upper end of Flour island
on our right, three miles below where the Indians had left us. The
river making a sudden bend here from east to south, we lost sight of
the smoke of the camp, and of our apprehensions also, and about a mile
farther, seeing a South Carolina and a Pittsburgh boat moored at the
left bank, we rowed in and joined them. Near the landing was a newly
abandoned Indian camp, the trees having been barked only within a day
or two. To explain this it may be proper to observe, that the Indians,
who are wanderers, continually shifting their hunting ground, form
their temporary huts with two forked stakes, stuck in the ground, at
from six to twelve feet apart, and from four to six feet high. A ridge
pole is laid from fork to fork, and long pieces of bark stripped from
the neighbouring trees, are placed on their ends at a sufficient
distance below, while the other ends overlap each other where they
meet at the ridge pole, the whole forming a hut shaped like the roof
of a common house, in which they make a fire, and the men, when not
hunting, lounge at full length wrapped in their blankets, or sit cross
legged, while the women do the domestick drudgery, or make baskets of
various shapes with split cane, which they do with great neatness,
and a certain degree of ingenuity. If any of the men die while on an
excursion, they erect a scaffold about five feet high, on which they
place the corpse covered with the skin of a deer, a bear, or some other
animal they have killed in hunting. The dead man’s rifle, tomahawk, bow
and arrows are placed along side of him on the scaffold, to which the
whole is bound with strings cut from some hide. It is then surrounded
with stout poles or stakes, ten or twelve feet long, drove firmly into
the ground and so close to each other as not to admit the entry of a
small bird. Some of the female relations, are left in the hut close to
the scaffold, until the excursion is {261} finished; when, ere they
return home to their nation, they bury the corpse with much privacy.--I
had been informed that some priest or privileged person, who was
called the bone picker, was always sent for to the nation to come and
cleanse the bones from the flesh even in the most loathsome state of
putrefaction, that the bones might be carried home and interred in the
general cemetery, but I had frequent opportunities of proving the error
of this opinion. As to the women, when they die, (which is very rare,
except from old age) they are buried at once on the spot, with little
or no ceremony. While on the subject of Indians, it may not be amiss
to mention a trait in their character, of courage and submission to
their laws, of which numberless instances have happened, particularly
amongst the Chocktaws on the frontier of the Mississippi Territory,
and I believe common to all the Indian nations, which I do not
recollect being noticed by any writer on the subject of their manners
and customs. If any one maims or mutilates another, in a drunken or
private fray, he must forfeit his life. A few days (or if necessary)
even a few months, are allowed the offender to go where he pleases and
settle his affairs, at the expiration of which it has rarely if ever
happened, that he does not surrender himself at the place appointed, to
submit himself to the rifle of the injured party, or one of his nearest
relatives, who never fails to exact the full penalty, by shooting the
criminal. This is a very common circumstance, and is an instance of
national intrepidity and obedience to the laws, not excelled in the
purest times of the Roman republick.[187]
We were now dreadfully tormented by musquitoes and gnats, particularly
at night, when moored {262} to the bank. By day, while floating in the
middle of the river, they were less troublesome. I would recommend it
to travellers about to descend the Ohio and Mississippi, to provide
themselves, previous to setting off, with musquitoe curtains, otherwise
they never can reckon on one night’s undisturbed repose, while on their
journey, during the spring, summer or autumn.
May 27th.--We proceeded this morning early with the other two boats in
company, and passing Flour island (so named from the number of flour
loaded boats which formerly were thrown on it by the current and lost)
the first two miles brought us abreast of the first Chickasaw Bluffs,
on the left. It is a cliff of pale orange coloured clay, rising from a
base of rocks on the bank of the river, and surmounted by trees.--Half
a mile below, another similar cliff rises suddenly from the water’s
edge, the two being connected by a semicircular range of smaller ones
receding from the bank, having a small willow bottom in front of them.
The river retaining its southerly course, floated us in another half
league, past the beginning of island No. 34 of Cramer’s Navigator,
which is four miles and a half long, at the end of which, another large
island (not mentioned in the Navigator, but probably included in No.
34, from which only a narrow channel separates it) begins. Two miles
from hence a handsome little creek or river, about forty yards wide,
joins the Mississippi from the N. E. and nearly a mile lower is another
small creek from the eastward with willows at its mouth.
The second Chickasaw Bluff, which we had seen in a long reach down the
river ever since we passed Flour island, commences at a mile below the
last creek, on the left hand. The cliff, of a yellowish brown colour,
has fallen in from the top of the bluff, which is about one hundred
and fifty feet high, and immediately after is a cleft or deep fissure,
through {263} which, a small creek or run enters the river. Half a mile
lower down, the foundation of the cliff, formed apparently of potter’s
blue clay, assumes the appearance of the buttresses of an ancient
fortification, projecting to support the huge impending yellowish red
cliff above, the base of the whole next the water being a heap of ruins
in fantastick and various forms, perpetually tumbling from the cliff,
which is beautifully streaked with horizontal lines, separating the
different strata of sand and clay of which it is composed.
The second bluffs are about two miles long, and form the interior of a
great bend of the river, which curves from S. W. by S. to N. W. where
being narrowed to a quarter of a mile wide between the bluff and the
island, (on which the passengers had bestowed the name of Cuming’s
island) the current is so rapid and sets so strongly into the bend as
to require the greatest exertion of the oars to keep the boat in the
channel. The river then turns a little to the left, and keeping a W. by
N. course for three or four miles, then resumes its general direction,
meandering to the southward.
A mile and a half below the bluffs, island No. 35 commences, doubling
over Cuming’s island, whose lower point is not in sight, being
concealed by No. 35. The view of the river and islands from the top of
the bluff must be very fine.
No. 35 is three miles long. From the lower end of this island we saw
the Third Chickasaw Bluffs bearing east about six or seven miles
distant, at the end of a vista formed by the left hand channel of
island No. 36, and appearing to be a little higher than the First
or Second Bluffs, but without any marked particularity at that
distance.[188]
FOOTNOTES:
[186] On the Shawnee Indians, see Weiser’s _Journal_, vol. i of this
series, p. 23, note 13.--ED.
[187] The Choctaws lived in what is now Mississippi, south of the more
important Chickasaw tribe. Their position between the Creeks, Cherokee,
Chickasaw, Spaniards, and English led to much intriguing for their
alliance. The custom which Cuming here notes is verified by Mississippi
historians, and was utilized by the early justices of the country. See
Claiborne, _Mississippi_, p. 505.--ED.
[188] The third Chickasaw Bluff is the place where De Soto is said to
have crossed the Mississippi River. Here also it is supposed that La
Salle built Fort Prud’homme on his exploration of the river in 1682.
The later historic significance was overshadowed by that of Fourth
Chickasaw Bluff.--ED.
{264} CHAPTER XLV
The Devil’s Race-ground--The Devil’s Elbow--Swans--Observations on
game--Remarkable situation--Enormous tree--Join other boats--First
settlements after the wilderness--Chickasaw Bluffs--Fort
Pike--Chickasaw Indians--Fort Pickering.
Rowing into the right hand channel of No. 36, we entered the Devil’s
Race-ground, as the sound is called between the island and the main,
from the number of snags and sawyers in it, and the current setting
strongly on the island, which renders it necessary to use the oars
with continued exertion, by dint of which we got safely through this
dangerous passage of three miles, leaving several newly deserted Indian
camps on the right. At the end of the Devil’s Race-ground the river
turns from S. W. by W. to N. N. W. and here opposite a small outlet of
twenty yards wide on the left, we met a barge under sail, bound up the
river.
After three miles on the last reach the river turns gradually with a
bend, to its general southerly direction, the bend being encircled by
a low bank covered with tall cypresses, which keep the traveller in
constant dread of falling on his boat, which in spite of his utmost
exertion is forced by an irresistible current close into the bend.
The two other boats stopped here among some willows on account of a
breaking short sea raised by a fresh southerly wind.
Nine miles from the Devil’s Race-ground, we came to the Devil’s Elbow,
which is a low point on the left, round which the river turns suddenly,
from S. W. to S. and from that to E. an island being in front to the
southward, which intercepts the drifts, and fills the river above half
channel over with snags and sawyers. There was a very large flock of
swans {265} on the low sandy point of the Elbow. These were the first
swans we had seen on the river, although they are said to abound
throughout this long tract which is destitute of inhabitants. We had
been long accustomed to see numbers of bitterns and cranes, mostly
white as snow, and a few grey ones, and some duck and teal sometimes
shewed themselves, but took care to keep out of gun shot. Travellers
descending the river have but little chance of obtaining any game, as
its having become so great a thoroughfare, has rendered both the four
footed, and feathered tribes fit for the table so wild, that it is rare
that any of them, even when seen can be shot, and if one lands for the
purpose of hunting, the boat must stop, or else he is in danger of
being left behind, as the current runs never or in no place slower than
three miles an hour, and mostly four or five.
The easterly bend is six miles long, and about a mile wide, gradually
inclining to the south, and on the right are eight creeks or outlets
of the river, five of them divided from each other by narrow slips of
land about fifty paces wide each, and the other three by slips of one
hundred and fifty paces. Their general direction from the river is S.
S. W. and a point rounds the whole way from E. to S. E.--This is one of
the most remarkable situations on the river.
Two miles lower we stopped at island No. 40, for the night, and moored
by some willows at a sand beach, near a drift tree, the trunk of which
was one hundred and twenty-five feet long, and from its thickness where
broken towards the top, it must have been at least fifty feet more to
the extremity of the branches, making in the whole the astonishing
length of one hundred and seventy-five feet. Capt. Wells with two boats
from Steubenville, passed and stopped a little below us.
The Musquitoes as usual plagued us all night, and hastened our
departure at four o’clock in the morning. {266} Wells’s boats were in
company, and after floating six miles, we overtook two other boats from
Steubenville under the direction of captain Bell.--The four boats had
twelve hundred barrels of flour for the New Orleans market.
This accession to our company served to enliven a little the remainder
of this dreary and solitary part of the river, the sameness of which
had began to be irksome.
In a league more Bell’s boats took the right hand channel round an
archipelago of islands, while we kept to the left through Mansfield’s
channel, which is very narrow and meanders among several small islands
and willow bars.
This archipelago which is designated by No. 41 in the Navigator, is
three miles long. At the end of it we rejoined Bell’s boats, and passed
a settlement pleasantly situated on the right, which was the first
habitation since Little Prairie (one hundred and thirty-two miles.)
Here we observed a fine stock of horses, cows, and oxen, and half a
mile farther we landed in the skiff at Mr. Foy’s handsome settlement
and good frame house. Foy was the first settler fourteen years ago on
the Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, which are opposite his present residence,
to which he removed eleven years ago; since when five families more
have settled near him, and about half a dozen on the Chickasaw side,
just below Wolf river. Soon after Foy’s first settlement, and very
near it, the Americans erected a small stoccado fort, named Fort Pike,
from the major commandant. After the purchase of Louisiana by the
United States from the Spaniards, Fort Pickering was erected two miles
lower down at the end of the bluffs, and Fort Pike was abandoned.
There are two stores on each side the river, one of which is kept by
Mr. Foy, who owns a small barge which he sends occasionally for goods
to New Orleans, from whence she returns {267} generally in forty
days, and did so once in thirty. Mrs. Foy was very friendly, amongst
other civilities, sparing us some butter, for which she would accept
no payment. This was the first instance of disinterestedness we had
experienced on the banks of the rivers.[189]
Wolf river is the boundary between the state of Tennessee and the
Mississippi territory. It is not more than about forty yards wide. The
bank of the Ohio and the Mississippi, the whole way from Tennessee
river is still owned by the Chickasaw nation, who have not yet sold
the territorial right.[190]
On the point immediately below Mr. Foy’s (whose negro quarter gives his
pleasantly situated settlement the appearance of a village or hamlet)
was formerly a Spanish fort no vestige of which now remains.[191]
Rowing across the river and falling down with the current, we landed
under Fort Pickering, having passed the Fourth Chickasaw Bluffs, which
are two miles long, and sixty feet perpendicular height. They are
cleared at the top to some little distance back, and the houses of the
settlers are very pleasantly situated near the edge of the cliff.
An Indian was at the landing observing us. He was painted in such a
manner as to leave us in doubt as to his sex until we noticed a bow
and arrow in his hand. His natural colour was entirely concealed under
the bright vermillion, the white, and the blue grey, with which he
was covered, not frightfully, but in such a manner as to mark more
strongly, a fine set of features on a fine countenance. He was drest
very fantastically in an old fashioned, large figured, high coloured
calico shirt--deer skin leggins and mockesons, ornamented with beads,
and a plume of beautiful heron’s feathers nodding over his forehead
from the back of his head.
We ascended to Fort Pickering[192] by a stair of one hundred and twenty
square logs, similar to that at {268} Jeffersonville. There was a trace
of fresh blood the whole way up the stair, and on arriving at the top,
we saw seated or lazily reclining on a green in front of the entrance
of the stoccado, about fifty Chickasaw warriours, drest each according
to his notion of finery, and most of them painted in a grotesque but
not a terrifick manner. Many of them had long feathers in the back part
of their hair, and several wore breast plates formed of tin in the
shape of a crescent, and had large tin rings in their ears.
On seeing so many Indians and the trace of blood before mentioned, an
idea started in my imagination that they had massacred the garrison,
but on advancing a little farther, I was agreeably undeceived by
seeing a good looking young white centinel in the American uniform,
with his musquet and fixed bayonet, parading before the gate of the
fort. He stopped us until permission was obtained from the commanding
officer for our entrance, and in the interim he informed me that he
was a Frenchman, a native of Paris, that he had been a marine under
Jerome Bonaparte, when the latter commanded a frigate, and that he had
deserted from him on his arrival in the Chesapeak. We were ushered by
a soldier to the officers’ quarters where we were received by lieut.
Taylor the commandant, with civility not unmixed with a small degree
of the pompous stiffness of office.[193] He however answered politely
enough a few interrogatories we made respecting the Indians. He said
they were friendly, and made frequent visits to the garrison, but
except a few of the chiefs on business, none of them were ever admitted
within the stoccado, and that this was a jubilee or gala day, on
account of their having just received presents from the United States’
government. They have a large settlement about five miles directly
inland from the river, but the most populous part of the Chickasaw
nation is one hundred miles distant to the south eastward.
{269} When we were returning to the boat, one of the Indians offered to
sell us for a mere trifle, a pair of very handsome beaded mockesons,
which we were obliged to decline, from having neglected to bring any
money with us.
Fort Pickering is a small stoccado, commanding from its elevated
situation not only the river, but also the surrounding country, which
however is not yet sufficiently cleared of wood to make it tenable
against an active enemy. There are some small cannon mounted, and
several pyramids of shot evince its being well supplied with that
article.
FOOTNOTES:
[189] The first fort known to have been erected on the site of Memphis
(Fourth Chickasaw Bluff) was that built by Bienville, governor of
Louisiana, during his campaigns against the Chickasaws (1735-40) and
called by him Fort Assumption. After the expedition of 1740, however,
this was abandoned, the place not being fortified until the Spanish
commandant Gayoso, in defiance of the authority of the United States,
crossed (1794) to the Chickasaw territory and built Fort San Fernando.
Two years later, after Pinckney’s treaty was signed, the Spaniards
reluctantly surrendered this outpost, whereupon the American Fort Pike
was built (1796).
Judge Benjamin Foy, of the Arkansas town of Foy’s Point, was a pioneer
of German descent, whose settlement is said to have been the most
healthful, moral, and intelligent community between the Ohio and
Natchez--due to the influence of its first settler, and his magisterial
powers. Volney, the French traveller, spent the winter of 1805 with Foy
in his Arkansas home.--ED.
[190] The Chickasaws maintained their right to the territory between
the Mississippi and the Tennessee until 1818, when commissioners for
the Federal Government bought the tract for $300,000. The town of
Memphis was laid out in the same year.--ED.
[191] This was the fort called Esperanza, where the village of
Hopefield, Arkansas, now stands.--ED.
[192] Fort Pickering (at first called Fort Adams) was erected by
Captain Guion on the orders of Wilkinson. Meriwether Lewis was for a
brief time (1797) in command of this post.--ED.
[193] This was Lieutenant Zachary Taylor, later the twelfth president
of the United States. His military commission dated from May 8, 1808,
so that his manner was doubtless due to his youth and the unaccustomed
novelty of his position.--ED.