Trade wind--Vienna--Belle-prè--Little Kenhawa river--Browning’s
tavern--Blennerhasset’s island, handsome seat and fine farm.
At half past two we proceeded from Marietta, accompanied by a Mr. Fry,
a genteel and well informed young lawyer, from the vicinity of Boston,
in search of an establishment in some part of this new country. We had
also as a passenger, a countryman, by trade a house carpenter, who
resided in Virginia, {108} about fifty miles lower down the river, and
was returning home after a trip up and down the Muskingum as one of the
crew of a keel boat.
There was a fresh S. W. wind, which is a trade wind on the Ohio every
day during summer, generally commencing about eight o’clock in the
morning, and ceasing about five in the afternoon, during which a boat
with a sail could ascend against the stream, from two to five miles an
hour, in proportion to the force of the wind; on which account I would
recommend it to navigators ascending the Mississippi and the Ohio in
the summer season, to be provided with a sail, as it will accelerate
their voyage very much, besides saving them a great deal of labour.
It blew so fresh this afternoon, that even with the aid of our
passengers, and a strong favourable current, we could scarcely make
any progress against the wind, which also occasioned a considerable
roughness of the water. By dint however of perseverance we advanced
a little, passing, three miles below Marietta, Muskingum island, two
miles long, and uncultivated, and a mile beyond that, Second island, a
fine little uncultivated island, three quarters of a mile long.
Two miles from hence, we passed on the left, a small settlement of
six or eight cabins, called Vienna, which does not appear to be
flourishing; and half a mile lower on the right, Coles’s tavern, a
very good square roofed house; a little beyond which is Third island,
a mile long, and the beginning of the fine settlement of Belle-prè on
the right, and a mile lower down, Little Kenhawa river on the left.[87]
This is a handsome little river, about eighty yards wide, with a placid
stream. It has Wood county court-house, and a tavern, on the right bank
of its embouchure.
We landed on the right at Browning’s tavern,[88] a good house and
pleasant situation, almost opposite {109} the Little Kenhawa. Several
travellers sat down with us to an excellent supper, amongst whom were a
merchant from Lexington, a travelling speculator and well digger from
French Grant, and a Mr. Smith from Cincinnati, who was deputed by the
marshal of Virginia to collect evidence for the trial of Col. Burr, and
his associates at Richmond.
Leaving Browning’s tavern on Friday, 24th July, at six o’clock,
without our passengers, in twenty minutes after, we had advanced a mile
and three quarters, and landed on the north side of Blennerhasset’s
island, a quarter of a mile below the eastern end.
On ascending the bank from the landing, we entered at a handsome double
gate, with hewn stone square pilasters, a gravel walk, which led us
about a hundred and fifty paces, to Mr. Blennerhasset’s house, with
a meadow on the left, and a shrubbery on the right, separated from
the avenue by a low hedge of privy-sally, through which innumerable
columbines, and various other hardy flowers were displaying themselves
to the sun, at present almost their only observer.
We were received with politeness by Mrs. Cushing, whose husband, Col.
Cushing, has a lease of this extensive and well cultivated farm, where
he and his family now reside in preference to his own farm at Belle-prè.
The house occupies a square of about fifty-four feet each side, is
two stories high, and in just proportion. On the ground floor is a
dining room of twenty-seven feet by twenty, with a door at each end
communicating with two small parlours, in the rear of each of which is
another room, one of which was appropriated by Mr. B. for holding a
chymical apparatus, and as a dispensary for drugs and medicines.
The stair case is spacious and easy, and leads to a very handsome
drawing room over the dining room, of the same dimensions. It is half
arched round the {110} cornices and the ceiling is finished in stucco.
The hangings above the chair rail are green with gilt border, and below
a reddish grey. The other four rooms on the same floor correspond
exactly with those below, and are intended either for bed chambers, or
to form a suit with the drawing room.
The body of the house is connected with two wings, by a semicircular
portico or corridor running from each front corner. In one wing is the
kitchen and scullery, and in the other was the library, now used as a
lumber room.
It is to be regretted that so tasty and so handsome a house had not
been constructed of more lasting materials than wood.
The shrubbery was well stocked with flowery shrubs and all the variety
of evergreens natural to this climate, as well as several exoticks,
surrounds the garden, and has gravel walks, labyrinth fashion, winding
through it.
The garden is not large, but seems to have had every delicacy of fruit,
vegetable, and flower, which this fine climate and luxurious soil
produces. In short, Blennerhasset’s island is a most charming retreat
for any man of fortune fond of retirement, and it is a situation
perhaps not exceeded for beauty in the western world. It wants however
the variety of mountain--precipice--cateract--distant prospect, &c.
which constitute the grand and sublime.
The house was finished in a suitable style, but all the furniture
and moveables were attached by the creditors to whom Mr. B. had made
himself liable by endorsing Col. Burr’s bills, and they were lately
sold at publick auction at Wood county court-house, for perhaps less
than one twentieth of their first cost.[89]
Mrs. Cushing described Mrs. B. as beautiful and highly accomplished,
about thirty years of age, and mother of two infant sons now with her
at Natchez.
{111} After passing an hour in this delightful spot, we left it with
regret that such a terrestrial paradise should be deserted by an owner
who had taste to blend judiciously the improvements of art with the
beauties of nature. Its fertility will always ensure its cultivation,
but without a Horace it must cease to be a Tivoli.
FOOTNOTES:
[87] The island at the point is still called Cole’s, or Vienna, Island.
For sketch of the Little Kanawha, see Croghan’s _Journals_, vol. i of
this series, p. 130, note 98.
Belpré (contraction of Belle Prairie) was the site chosen for the
second separate community of the Ohio Company of Associates, being
laid out 1789-90. The first town meeting was held in 1802. Belpré’s
chief title to fame is the fact that there was established (about 1795)
the first circulating library in the Northwest Territory. The son
of Israel Putnam brought out a portion of his father’s library, and
formed a stock company in which shares were sold at ten dollars each.
The company was dissolved (1815 or 1816), and among the stockholders
were distributed the books, some of which are still to be found in the
neighboring farmhouses.--ED.
[88] William Browning came to Marietta from Massachusetts in 1789, and
shortly after married a daughter of General Rufus Putnam, settling at
Belpré, where he died in 1823.--ED.
[89] This description of the Blennerhassett place so soon after the
family were forced to abandon the island, is of especial interest. The
story of Harman Blennerhassett is one of the best-known in Western
annals. He was an Irish gentleman of fortune and culture, who because
of his republican principles emigrated to America. In 1798 he bought
this beautiful island in the Ohio, and prepared it for a home for his
family. Charming and accomplished, he and his wife occupied themselves
in beautifying the place, in generous and lavish hospitality, and in
scientific investigation. Unfortunately Blennerhassett was tempted to
embrace the schemes of Aaron Burr, and involved his entire estate in
that enterprise. Late in 1806 rumors of treason grew so strong that
Blennerhassett was obliged to escape from his island, which was shortly
overrun with local militia, who wantonly destroyed much property and
insulted Mrs. Blennerhassett. The place had been left to the care of
Colonel Nathaniel Cushing, who, after distinguished service in the
Revolution, had removed to the Ohio, and having settled near Belpré,
was a neighbor and warm friend of the Blennerhassetts. The fine mansion
was burned in 1811 by the carelessness of negroes, and but little is
now left of the estate which had been laid out with so much care and
taste. For description of the present condition of the island, see
Thwaites, _On the Storied Ohio_.--ED.